2006 13 Tectilon Erionyl Lanaset Polar PDF
2006 13 Tectilon Erionyl Lanaset Polar PDF
2006 13 Tectilon Erionyl Lanaset Polar PDF
I
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Content
CH 1 : Description 1
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane 1
General 2
Outlets 2
Polyamide fibers 2
Elastane fibers 3
General precautions (storage) 3
Processing routes 4
Relaxation 4
Heat setting 4
Processing of circular knits 4
Pretreatment 4
Scouring/relaxation 4
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening 5
Dyeing machines 5
Dye selection 6
® ®
Ciba TECTILON acid dyes 7
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Ciba ERIONYL A acid dyes 8
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 9
Recommendations for combination shades 10
Dyeing 12
Parameters influencing dyeing 12
Dissolving the dyes 12
Dyeing chemicals 13
Dyeing procedures 14
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 14
® ®
Ciba LANASET acid/metal complex dyes 15
Modified dyeing method for good leveling 16
Finishing 19
Shading 19
Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings 19
II
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Microfibers 20
Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics 21
General 21
Steaming 22
Washing off and aftertreatment 22
Textile auxiliaries 23
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET 23
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Ciba AVIVAN SO NEW 23
CIBAFAST® AO 23
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CIBAFIX CL 23
CIBAFIX® ECO 23
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CIBAFIX PAS 23
CIBAFLOW® CIR 23
®
CIBAFLOW JET 23
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CIBAFLUID C 23
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CIBAFLUID U 23
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Ciba CLARITE PS 24
Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF 24
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Ciba HYDROPHOBOL XAN 24
Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN NEW 24
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Ciba INVADINE DA 24
Ciba® INVADINE® LUN 24
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Ciba INVADINE PBN 24
Ciba® INVATEX® CS 24
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Ciba MEGASOFT JET-LF 25
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S 25
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Ciba OLEOPHOBOL 7713 25
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Ciba TINEGAL W 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE DP 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE MC NEW 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA NEW 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE NT NEW 25
Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL 25
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Ciba ULTRATEX UM NEW 25
Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq. 115% 26
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Ciba UVITEX CF liq. 200% 26
Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. 26
Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. 26
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Ciba ZEROSTAT AT NEW 26
III
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
CH 2 : Dyes 28
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 28
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Ciba ERIONYL A acid dyes 32
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 39
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 46
Notes on the pattern section 50
Standard dyeings 50
Fastness properties 50
Artificial light/Philips TL 84 51
Dischargeability 51
Build up 51
Migration 52
Barriness 52
CH 3 : Auxiliaries 53
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent 53
CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide 54
®
CIBAFIX CL chlorine fastness improver 55
CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide 56
CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose 57
CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant 58
CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant 59
CIBAFLUID® C lubricant 60
Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide 61
® ®
Ciba UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba UNIVADINE NT
NEW leveling agent for acid dyes 62
CH 4 : Miscellaneous 63
IV
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
CH 1 : Description
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane
3 compact ranges with similar dyeing ● targeted dye selection for all requirements
behavior ● excellent compatibility
Supported by selected brilliant acid dyes ● easy dye selection
High fastness properties fulfilling various ● high light fastness for pale shades (TECTILON)
requirements ● high wet fastness for deep shades (LANASET)
● tailor-made products for all requirements
● suitable for Oeko-Tex Standard 100
Controlled elastane staining for all ● dye selection for tone-in-tone staining
requirements ● selected dyes give good reservation of elastane
General
This pattern card provides recommendations on dyeing polyamide/elastane blends. All dyes used for
polyamide stain elastane to a greater or lesser extent, therefore the wet fastness level on this blend is usually
lower than on pure polyamide.
The dyes recommended for polyamide /elastane in this pattern card are:
● TECTILON dyes (acid dyes)
● ERIONYL A dyes (acid dyes)
● LANASET dyes (modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes)
● POLAR dyes (acid dyes)
The ranges complement each other in their dyeing properties, and enable the different requirements in the
various outlets for polyamide/elastane material to be met.
The pattern card contains useful information on pretreatment, bleaching/fluorescent whitening, dye selection,
compatibility, dyeing procedures and textile auxiliaries. Dyeing parameters are also detailed.
All dyes are illustrated as self shades on a representative swimwear fabric made from 40 denier extra dull PA
6 yarn blended with 20% elastane. All fastness data and details of application properties in this pattern card
were tested on this material.
Outlets
Textured and non-textured filament and staple fiber yarns are blended with elastane fibers to make a variety
of knitted and woven elastic apparel e.g.:
● sports and swimwear
● underwear and foundation garments
● pantyhose and therapeutic elastic stockings
● elastic ribbons and tapes
● tulle and lace
Polyamide fibers
Polyamide belongs to the polycondensate group of fibers, the most important of these being PA 6 (perlon type)
and PA 66 (nylon type), which differ somewhat in their physical and dyeing properties.
The perlon type is slightly less temperature-resistant, but easier to dye. Somewhat better fastness properties
can be expected with the nylon types.
The following fiber properties and/or pretreatment processes are among the parameters that can influence
the result.
Fineness (dtex)
The finer the fibers or fibrils, the lower the color strength and the wet fastness properties.
Delustring
The higher the degree of delustring, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.
Texturing
Color strength is lower on textured than on smooth yarns.
Elastane fibers
Elastane fibers (EL) consist of at least 85% polyurethane, built up of linear macromolecules arranged in
segments. The macromolecules contain alternating hard and soft segments. The hard segments (short
crystalline zones) impart stability to the fiber, the soft segments, which are long, unstructured and flexible,
give the polymer its rubber-like stretchiness. Elastane fibers can be stretched four to seven times their initial
length and spring back to the original length when the tension is released.
Elastane fibers are composed of fused filaments, fineness range 11–2500 dtex. They are available in dull
white, semi-transparent, bright and clear versions.
Elastane in blends with polyamide is used bare (foundation wear, swimwear, circular knits etc.) or covered by
PA (hosiery, socks, narrow fabrics, woven).
Elastane fibers are often stained by acid and metal complex dyes, but it is difficult to achieve tone-in-tone
effects, especially with the dull types used bare (not covered). Stretching such kind of fabrics can lead to
“grin through” of the elastic component. With the transparent types of elastane these undesirable features
are less marked.
Elastane fibers are resistant to acids, alkalis, oxidizing and reducing agents under the usual pretreatment,
dyeing and finishing conditions. Chlorine bleaching agents cause loss of strength and discoloration. There
are specific types of elastane, which are recommended for swimwear.
These problems are made worse by improper storage conditions in warehouses, which are in most cases not
air-conditioned or where exhaust fumes from trucks and forklifts are present. Sunlight can also aggravate
degradation (outdoor storage). If storage periods of more than 3 months are not avoidable, the fabrics
should be sealed in plastic film which is impervious to both air and light.
Processing routes
Most commonly relaxation and heat setting are the first steps prior to scouring. This is the more economical
route but it entails risks:
● during heat setting impurities and degradation products of lubricants can be baked into the fabric, forming
stains which resist even harsh scouring.
● heavy fumes can be created during heat setting, causing environmental problems and staining of the
stenter by condensation products.
If the above problems occur, scouring (i.e. on a soft flow jet) before heat setting is a good remedy. This
scouring step will also induce proper relaxation of the fabric so that further steam relaxation before heat
setting is not necessary.
Setting after dyeing can cause color changes through fiber yellowing or reduction of wet fastness owing to
thermomigration of dyes. Pre-setting conditions are therefore always more severe in order to allow post-
setting under milder conditions.
Relaxation
During weaving or knitting the elastic yarns are under a certain tension, which is then incorporated in the
fabric. Relaxation prior to heat setting is an important part of processing elastic fabrics as it avoids rope
marks and puckering during dyeing and guarantees good dimensional stability. Depending on the processing
route, relaxation is done:
● by steaming (steam table or steam box in front of the stenter before heat-setting)
● in the pre-scouring bath before heat setting.
Heat setting
Open width heat setting controlled by temperature, overfeed and holding to width determines the desired
stretch level as well as the final fabric weight and width.
Circular knitted material shows less tendency to selvage curling during dyeing if properly heat-set prior to
dyeing.
Heat setting is performed at 180 ~ 190°C/356 ~ 374°F for 30 ~ 45 sec. Higher temperatures cause
yellowing of elastane and reduction of elasticity.
Alternatively, if a special heat-setting machine for tubular material is used, the fabrics can be dyed in the
tubular make-up form without any problems.
Pretreatment
Scouring/relaxation
Silicone oils and lubricants should be thoroughly removed from the fabric before dyeing. They have a
negative influence on leveling of dyes, resulting in reduced fastness and limited build up.
A very essential part of the scouring process is the following rinse. The scouring liquor should never be
cooled by rinsing with cold water because the emulsified oils will precipitate again, leaving spots on the textile.
The most efficient routine is to give a good overflow rinse with hot water, then drain the machine and use
cold water only in the final rinse before dyeing.
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening
A high proportion of polyamide goes into white goods. Typical items are locknit charmeuse for underwear,
lace and foundation garments. The usual reduction bleach is generally not sufficient to achieve the required
degree of whiteness. The goods must therefore be fluorescent whitened in addition, preferably using products
that are stable in the reduction bleach bath.
If required, a fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) can be added to the reduction bleaching bath. The following
FWAs can be used, depending on required shade. Care must be taken to adjust the pH to that most suitable
for the respective product.
Dyeing machines
High temperature and mechanical stress on the material during the dyeing process are factors which can
cause a loss of elasticity. The sensitivity of the elastic material to the mechanical dyeing conditions is
dependent on the content of elastane. The most sensitive are fabrics with more than 25% elastane, and to
preserve their elasticity only beam dyeing machines are recommended for them.
Textiles containing more than 10% elastane should be dyed on so-called soft flow jets. The circulation of the
rope of textile is very smooth and soft for two reasons:
● very short distance between liquor surface and winch
● fully flooded material transportation through the dye liquor.
Fabrics with less than 10% elastane can be dyed on modern air jets; they have a very low liquor ratio and
their high speed guarantees good levelness. They are more useful than conventional jets for elastane fabrics
because the air-flow used to transport the fabric reduces the liquor content in the textile, the wet fabric is
therefore lighter and less stretched when pulled through the transportation unit.
A further advantage of this machine type is better opening of the rope during dyeing; this means less curling
of the selvages of open width circular knits.
● ideal for most sensitive material with a high ● higher tension on the material than in soft
elastane content flow jets
Dye selection
General
Widely varying substrate forms and end products mean that the different requirements of polyamide dyeing
cannot be covered by a single dye range. Selective use of the different ranges allows the different
requirements to be met.
Properties
● High light fastness, including in pale shades
● Outstanding migration and excellent leveling properties
● Very good coverage of physical affinity differences
● Ideal for pantyhose shades and typical pale underwear shades
● Fully compatible (trichromatic systems)
● Metal-free
● Simple dyeing procedure
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
Monosulfonated and disulfonated acid dyes with medium to good migration and leveling properties.
Properties
● Good build up to deep shades on different types of polyamide
● Medium to very good light fastness properties
● Good wet fastness properties to medium shades; deep shades require aftertreatment
● Good coverage of physical barriness with the addition of a leveling agent
● Compatible dyes for a wide range of shades; on their own for brilliant fashion shades. Selected POLAR
dyes supplement this shade area.
● Medium to good migration
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
Properties
● Very good build up on different types of polyamide (microfibers)
● High light fastness at all shade depths
● Very high wet fastness properties, including in deep shades
● Medium migration, moderate coverage of physical affinity differences in the fiber.
A new leveling agent and a modified dyeing procedure can help to overcome these limitations
● Good compatibility if recommendations are followed
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
LANASET Yellow 2R
LANASET Red G
LANASET Gray G
Shade area Yellow Orange Scarlet/ Bor- Violet Blue Blue- Green/ Brown/ Navy Black
red deaux green/ olive beige/
tur- gray
quoise
TECTILON
Yellow 2G
Yellow 3R ∆
Red 2B ∆
Blue 4R-01 ∆
Blue 6G
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G
Yellow A-R ∆
Red A-3G
Red A-2BF ∆
Red A-3B
Bord. A-5B ∆
Violet A-B
Blue A-R ∆
Blue A-4G
Turquoise A-G
Green A-BG
Navy A-R
Black M-R
Black M-BN
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
Yellow 2R
Orange RN
Brown G-01
Brown B
Red G
Red 2B
Bordeaux B
Violet B
Blue 2R
Blue 5G
Green B
Gray G
Navy R
Black B
Dyeing
Parameters influencing dyeing
Dyeing temperature
Elastane fibers are sensitive to high temperatures. To preserve their elasticity dyeing temperatures above the
boil are not recommended.
Dyeing pH
The optimum pH varies with type of dye, shade depth and type of fiber. It is advisable to adjust the pH with
a buffer.
The pH depends closely on the process water, and the above figures should thus be regarded as guidelines. A
rise in pH is to be expected on heating permutit water.
Migration
The movement of the dye in or on the substrate from points of higher to points of lower concentration is
known as migration. Migration depends primarily on the constitution of the dye, but is also affected to a
varying degree by the type of fiber and treatment conditions (pH, auxiliaries, temperature, time). Migration
is an indication of the leveling power of a dye.
Barriness
Production-related physical and chemical differences in the fiber material and also stretching differences can
result in barriness. Barriness can be covered to varying degrees by selecting suitable dyes and using
appropriate dyeing auxiliaries and procedures.
Build up
Build up refers to the maximum shade depth achieved with a specific dye. It is primarily determined by the
dye’s chemical constitution. Fiber properties, especially the saturation limit, also play a role.
Blocking
Mutual displacement of individual acid dyes from the fiber during dyeing is known as blocking. This effect
depends mainly on dye constitution, but also on dye concentration, fiber saturation, auxiliaries, pH and
temperature. Thus disulfo dyes on polyamide are blocked to a varying degree by monosulfo dyes. Dye
selection plays an important role in preventing blocking (see『Recommendations for combination
shades』page 10, 『Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades』page 11).
Auxiliaries and chemicals should not be added during dissolving. The dye solution should always be added to
the dyebath through a strainer or sieve. For further details on solubility of the individual dyes, please see the
fastness tables in the pattern section. The temperature of dye solutions containing LANASET Red 2B should
not exceed 60°C/140°F.
Dyeing chemicals
Penetration accelerants
These products are added to the dyebath to de-aerate and rapidly wet out the goods. They also have a foam-
suppressing effect. The penetration accelerants recommended here, CIBAFLOW CIR and CIBAFLOW JET,
have specific applications. CIBAFLOW CIR achieves a balance between wetting out, de-aerating and
defoaming. It is mainly used in circulating liquor dyeing (beam dyeing). CIBAFLOW JET has a durable
antifoam effect and is used in jet dyeing.
Crease prevention
CIBAFLUID U and CIBAFLUID C are used for crease prevention in piece dyeing. They prevent cracks,
creases and abrasion marks in winches and jets without impairing the quality of the dyeing. These products
also enhance the running properties of elastic fabrics, resulting in less tension during dyeing and therefore
better preservation of the elasticity.
Dyeing procedures
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
Notes
TECTILON dyes are generally applied at pH 4.5–5.5, Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes at slightly higher pH (5–6). For
Ciba® ERIONYL® Turquoise A-G see『ERIONYL Turquoise A-G』page 34. A pH at around the top limit is
advisable for pale dyeings. Wet fastness properties can be improved by aftertreatment (see『Improving
wet fastness properties』page 17).
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
* Same with『Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes』
B x % LANASET dye
LANASET Black B:
1.5-3% acetic acid 80%, pH 4-4.5
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
B x % dyes
Notes
Very high requirements for wash fastness at higher temperatures (60°C/140°F) force the dyer to switch to
high fastness dyes for shade areas where acid leveling dyes are normally used. High fastness dyes tend to be
unlevel and to accentuate physical affinity differences in polyamide fabrics, resulting in barriness. The reason
for this is the very fast first strike of such dyes if applied under slightly acid conditions. Their migration
properties are limited; this means that during heating and boiling there is not much chance to correct initial
unlevelness.
Experience has shown that dyeing at an alkaline pH is a very practical method of slowing down the exhaustion
rate and of greatly improving levelness. Typical pale underwear shades (skin shades) are dyed at pH 8 to 8.5.
This ensures outstanding slow tone-in-tone build up during heating, and full exhaustion at the boil, resulting
in excellent reproducibility.
Aftertreatment can be performed in the exhausted dyebath, but this procedure is not really recommended as
the pH and the presence of nonionic leveling and wetting agents and detergents can severely impair its
efficacy.
Notes
With very deep shades as well as with black and navy (dyed with premetallized dyes) on polyamide / elastane
blends, a further aftertreatment enhances fastness still more. After anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS the
cationic fixing agent CIBAFIX ECO is applied.
Thorough rinsing after application of CIBAFIX PAS is essential; residues in the bath will cause precipitation
with cationic fixing agents.
As a time-saving alternative, CIBAFIX ECO can also be applied together with a softener in a final pad
treatment before drying on the stenter.
Finishing
Softening by exhaust method
1–4 g/L MEGASOFT JET-LF
x % acetic acid
pH 5–5.5
20 min at 30–40°C/86–104°F, drain without further rinsing
Shading
If shading is required, the dyebath generally has to be cooled to 60–70°C/140–158°F before the dyes are
added. TECTILON dyes can also be added at temperatures close to the boil with the steam switched off.
In critical cases, the treatment can be repeated. Before re-dyeing, the pH must be corrected with acetic acid.
The attainable effects are shown in the table in the pattern section.
Radical stripping
Dyes can be radically or completely stripped by the following method:
Reduction
3 g/L Decrolin (BASF)
2 % formic acid 85%
30 min at 98°C/208°F
rinse warm and cold
Oxidation stripping with sodium chlorite is unsuitable because elastane fibers are not stable to chlorine.
Stripping can impair light fastness and build up of the dyes. The most suitable method must be determined
by conducting preliminary trials.
Microfibers
General
High comfort in wear and easy care make woven and knitted goods of polyamide microfibers popular for
functional leisure and sports wear.
Polyamide microfibers, which are supplied by numerous manufacturers, vary widely in fineness, degree of
delustring, fiber profiles and surface modifications. Brand names include Supplex/Tactel (Du Pont), Meryl
Micro (Rhône-Poulenc, Viscosuisse) and Siks Micro (Snia Fibres).
Microfibers are polyamide filament yarns whose individual filament fineness is less than 1 dtex. Fabrics are
labeled “micro” if at least one system, warp or weft, consists of microfibers.
Fiber Fineness
Fastness properties
Light and wet fastness properties of polyamide microfibers are often considerably poorer (1/2 ~ 1 rating) than
those of conventional polyamide fibers. Fastness depends closely on the type of fiber.
Dyeing
On account of their extreme fineness, microfibers have several special dyeing characteristics, and these are
discussed below. For other information, please see the general section. Microfiber filament yarns require
higher amounts of dye than conventional filament yarns to achieve a given shade depth.
Fastness properties required of functional clothing are high and not always easy to achieve. TECTILON and
ERIONYL A dyes are suitable for pale and medium shades (procedures described on page 14『Dyeing
procedures』). For good build up and high fastness with medium and deep shades, LANASET dyes are
usually required.
The majority of these narrow fabrics are dyed by the continuous method, as this increases productivity and
allows orders to be fulfilled at short notice. The pad-steam procedure comprises the following steps:
● padding
● fixation
● washing off
● aftertreatment (if required)
● drying
Fastness requirements depend on the end product. As narrow fabrics are frequently used for underwear,
fastness to perspiration and washing are essential. Fastness to rubbing is important with deep dyeings.
Products from the TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR ranges are suitable for dyeing. TECTILON
dyes are recommended for pale shades, ERIONYL A and POLAR for medium and deep shades.
The most important criterion for dye selection is adequate solubility at room temperature. Good build up in
the shortest possible steaming time is a major factor too.
Pad liquor
Black
3.0 g/L citric acid
pH 4
3.0 ml/L acetic acid 80%
Steaming
The fixation of the dyes takes place during steaming. Steaming temperature and time are the key factors for
achieving sufficient build-up and fastness, but too high a steaming temperature can affect the handle.
The usual steaming conditions are 3–6 min. with superheated steam at 100–102°C/212–216°F, very deep
shades and black and navy need up to 8 min. at a temperature of 102–106°C/216–223°F.
Textile auxiliaries
Ciba® AVIVAN® SO textile softener — gives fabrics a soft, smooth handle with a rich silky
NEW touch
nonionic/cationic — allows production of fabrics with a high whiteness and
minimal shade change
— minimal effect on wet fastness and crocking fastness
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
®
CIBAFAST AO fiber stabilizer, light — reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially
fastness improver heat
— improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium
anionic shades
— suitable for all PA6 and PA66
— very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability
— metal-free
®
CIBAFIX CL chlorine fastness — natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness
improver (100% biodegradable)
— improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing
anionic — recommended for all kinds of swimwear fabric
— excellent build up and leveling power
— applicable over a wide pH range (pH 3–6)
— high exhaustion rate
CIBAFIX® ECO fixative — for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness
— CIBAFIX ECO is applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation
cationic with CIBAFIX PAS
CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant — instant penetration of dye liquor into the textile material
— especially recommended in circulating liquor dyeing
anionic machines (beam, package)
— APEO- and solvent-free
®
CIBAFLOW JET penetration, foam- — faultless cloth run in jets, no stoppage, no damage to
inhibiting, de-aerating goods (creases)
— durable antifoam effect
anionic — APEO- and solvent-free
Ciba® INVADINE® LUN detergent, wetting and — outstanding wetting and de-aerating properties,
de-aerating agent including in cold liquors
— enhanced rewetting power
weakly anionic — good detergency and dispersing action
— well suited for washing-off greasy, oily impurities and
pigment soil
Ciba® INVADINE® PBN special wetting agent — excellent wetting effect for oil and water repellent
finishes
anionic — avoids build up on rollers, particularly with paraffin
emulsions containing metal salt
— no influence on the water and oil repellent effect
® ®
Ciba INVATEX CS dispersing and — prevents precipitations of metal hydroxides, carbonates
complexing agent and silicates on goods and machinery
— crystallization-inhibiting properties (threshold-effect)
anionic — enhances the effect of simultaneously applied
detergents and dispersants
— high stability to alkali, oxidation and hydrolysis
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S oil, water, stain — excellent and durable protection against rain, stains,
repellency dust and dirt
cationic
® ®
Ciba OLEOPHOBOL oil, water, stain — good, long-lasting water and stain protection
7713 repellency — Laundry Air Dry properties (LAD)
cationic — dust and dirt can easily be shaken or brushed off
Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM textile softener — gives fabrics a very specific soft, silicone-like and bulky
NEW handle
nonionic/cationic — improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
— increases fabric resilience
Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. fluorescent whitening — slightly reddish white shade for polyamide and cellulosic
agent fibers
— especially recommended when high light fastness is
anionic stilbene required
derivative — suitable for exhaust processes, has good leveling
properties
— highly appropriate for whitening of swimwear fabrics
Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT antistatic agent — reduces fabric processing problems especially in fabric
NEW cutting and sewing
anionic — reduces static cling during display and wearing of
garments
Edition 2001/2002
All product names in capital letters are either registered or pending trademarks and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY,
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under
no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence,
breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyer’s sole
remedy and Seller’s sole liability for any claims shall be Buyer’s purchase price. Data and results are based on
controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for the intended conditions of use. The
product(s) has (have) not been tested for, and is (are) therefore not recommended for, uses for which
prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which
implantation within the human body is intended.
Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Ciba
Specialty Chemicals representative. Further information at website: http://www.cibasc.com
CH 2 : Dyes
Yellow 2G 200% Lightfast, bright yellow for self shades. In combination with TECTILON Blue 6G for
brilliant green shades. C.I. Acid Yellow 169
Yellow 3R 200% Highly lightfast trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON
Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Yellow 246
Red 2B 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Blue 4R-01.
C.I. Acid Red 361
Blue 4R-01 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Red 2B.
Shade shift towards red in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 27
Blue 6G 200% For combination with TECTILON Yellow 2G for brilliant green shades, and with
TECTILON Yellow 3R for dull green shades. Shade shift towards green in artificial light.
C.I. Acid Blue 258
Yellow 4R 200% New trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R-
01. C.I. Acid Yellow 219
Blue 3R KWL
Tectilon Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200% Blue 4R-01 200%
Tectilon Tectilon
Yellow 3R 200% Blue 6G 200%
TECTILON
Red 2B 200%
0.055% 0.65%
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 5
Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 2–3 3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5
Blue 4R-01 200% 1 .1 4 2–3 4 4 3 2–3 3 4–5 3–4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5
Blue 6G 200% 1 .7 3–4 2–3 4 4–5 2–3 2–3 3 5 3 2–3 2–3 4–5 2–3 5
Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
Tectilon % mg/L available chlorine
Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
Yellow A-3G For self shades, and in combination with ERIONYL Blue A-4G and ERIONYL Turquoise A-
G for brilliant green shades with good light fastness. Causes “catalytic fading” with
ERIONYL Blue A-R. C.I. Acid Yellow 262
Yellow A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B
and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Good build up and balanced dyeing behavior. C.I. Acid Orange
67
Red A-3G For self shades and as a basis for deep red shades with adequate light and wet
fastness. C.I. Acid Red 447
Red A-2BF Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
Neutral red with high light fastness. C.I. Acid Red 127 ?
Red A-3B On its own for bright, bluish red fashion shades. Light fastness in deep shades
adequate. C.I. Acid Red 131
Bordeaux A-5B Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
For deep and dull fashion shades with high fastness. C.I. Acid Red 299
Violet A-B On its own for highly lightfast violet shades. In combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF,
(Lanaset Violet B) ERIONYL Red A-3B and ERIONYL Blue A-R for the fashion violet sector. C.I. Acid Violet
109
Blue A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R, ERIONYL Red A-2BF and
ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B.
For bright royal blue self shades. Very good levelness, high wet fastness. C.I. Acid
Blue 260
Blue A-4G Greenish blue for green shades in combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL
Green A-BG. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light.
Turquoise A-G For self shades. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G for brilliant green shades.
Fairly good build-up on different types of polyamide. To achieve good exhaustion,
dyeing at pH 4.5–5.5 is recommended and the use of ALBEGAL SET instead of
UNIVADINE PA/NT. Barriness largely covered under HT conditions.
Green A-BG Basis for dull green and olive shades with shading dyes ERIONYL Blue A-4G, ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Yellow A-R.
Navy A-R Neutral, cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Violet A-B, ERIONYL
(Navy R) Blue A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-4G. Blue component for deep olive shades. C.I. Acid
Blue 113
Black M-R Black with high wet fastness. Shade shift in artificial light towards red can be corrected
with ERIONYL Yellow A-R or ERIONYL Blue A-4G. C.I. Acid Black 172
Black M-BN Deep, neutral black with very good build up on different types of polyamide. High light
fastness, wet fastness slightly lower than that of ERIONYL Black M-R. C.I. Acid Black
63:1
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G Blue A-R
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Yellow A-R Blue A-4G
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-3G Turquoise A-G
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-2BF Green A-BG
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-3B Navy A-R
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Bordeaux A-5B Black M-R
ERIONYL ERIONYL
Violet A-B Black M-BN
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Yellow A-R 1 .0 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 2-3 4 4–5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4–5
Red A-3G 1 .0 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 5
Blue A-4G 2 .0 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 2–3 2–3 4–5 4 3 3 4–5 2–3 5
Black M-BN 3 .8 4–5 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 4–5 2 4–5 5 4–5 5
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
ERIONYL A % mg/L available chlorine
5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 2 5 5
Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Navy A-R 1 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
Black M-R 4 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
Yellow 4GN Basis for bright yellow shades. In combination with LANASET Blue 5G for brilliant
green shades.
Yellow 2R For shading and combination with LANASET Red G and LANASET Gray G for dull
shades.
Orange RN Basis for brilliant orange shades with very good build up.
Brown G-01 Basis for medium beige and brown shades with good light fastness.
Brown B Basis for cost-effective dark brown shades with ultra high light fastness.
Red G Shading and combination dye for use with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Gray G.
Red 2B For brilliant red self shades with high light and wet fastness.
Bordeaux B Basis for bordeaux shades. Limited suitability for pale shades on account of low light
fastness.
Violet B Highly lightfast violet dye for self shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Red 2B and
(ERIONYL Violet LANASET Blue 2R. C.I. Acid Violet 109
A-B)
Blue 2R Bright blue self dye for royal blue shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Violet B and
(POLAR Blue RLS LANASET Blue 5G. C.I. Acid Blue 225
200%)
Blue 5G Greenish blue. In combination with LANASET Yellow 4GN for brilliant green shades. To
correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 239
Green B Basis for dull green and olive shades for combination with LANASET Blue 5G.
Gray G For shading and combination with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Red G.
Navy R Cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with LANASET Blue 5G, LANASET Blue 2R and
LANASET Violet B.
Black B Neutral black with good build up. Also suitable for gray shades.
Blue 2RA
Yellow PA 125%
Red PA 200%
Blue PA
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
LANASET LANASET
Yellow 4GN Violet B
LANASET LANASET
Yellow 2R Blue 2R
LANASET LANASET
Orange RN Blue 5G
LANASET LANASET
Brown G-01 Green B
LANASET LANASET
Brown B Gray G
LANASET LANASET
Red G Navy R
LANASET LANASET
Red 2B Black B
LANASET
Bordeaux B
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
Blue 5G 2 .2 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 G Gde 5 1–2 3–4 3
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Orange RN 1 .8 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
Brown G-01 1 .4 5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Brown B 1 .2 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
Red G 1 .1 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5
Blue 5G 2 .2 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 3–4 4 4–5 2–3 3 5 4 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
LANASET % mg/L available chlorine
Yellow 4GN 1 .3 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
Brown G-01 1 .4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
Brown B 1 .2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 1–2 4–5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5
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Ciba® LANASET® dyes
Blue 5G 2 .2 4 5 5 3 3 3 2 25 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5
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Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
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Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Orange GSN Very bright orange for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
150% fastness properties.
Orange GRLS Highly lightfast bright orange for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties, but
200% limited leveling.
Red B 125% Very brilliant, neutral red for self shades. Moderate light fastness. High wet-fastness
properties.
Red RLS 200% Highly lightfast brilliant, bluish red for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties.
Red 10B 140% Brilliant, very bluish red for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
fastness properties.
Yellow GN-01
400%
Red BL
Blue 3RN
Blue G 350%
Blue 6B 350%
Blue RLS 200% C.I. Acid Blue 225 (LANASET Blue 2R)
POLAR
POLAR
Orange GSN
Red RLS 200%
150%
POLAR
POLAR
Orange GRLS
Red 10B 140%
200%
POLAR
Red B 125%
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Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Orange GRLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5
Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4 5
5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
POLAR % mg/L available chlorine
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5
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Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Fastness properties
Fastness properties were tested in accordance with SN-ISO 105 or international standards. Fastness
ratings refer to the material illustrated with and sometimes without aftertreatment. Where multifiber strip
is specified as adjacent fabric, such as in wash test C06 B2, adjacent fabric not mentioned in the table
attained rating 5 for staining.
Light fastness was tested at the given depths, wet fastness at 1/1 standard depth (SD) or as light navy
(N/L) and deep black (B/Dk). Standard depth 1/1 was determined colorimetrically in accordance with ISO
105-A06 (edition 1995, “Instrumental determination of standard depth 1/1”).
Results can differ, depending on fiber material, and for special requirements preliminary trials are
advisable.
Polyamide microfibers frequently have considerably lower fastness properties than conventional varieties.
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Staining of elastane
EL = Elastane 0 = no staining of EL
PA = Polyamide 1 = poor dyeing of EL
2 = medium dyeing of EL
3 = tone-in-tone dyeing of EL
4 = heavy staining of EL (EL deeper than PA)
Bl = bluer
G = greener
R = redder
Y = yellower
Artificial light/Philips TL 84
Shade was assessed under a MacBeth lamp and a TL 84 tubular fluorescent lamp and compared with that
in daylight.
Dischargeability
Dischargeability was rated 1 to 5, rating 5 indicating “discharged to white” and rating 1 “no effect”.
Method:
Build up
Exhaustion > 95%, referred to a dyeing without auxiliaries on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20), 1h at
98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1, at the following shade depths:
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Migration
Test method: treat dyed and non-dyed material (1/1 SD or pale navy) at a 1:1 ratio in a blank bath
without auxiliaries, 1h at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1
Barriness
This was tested on polyamide 66 test material without auxiliaries at shade depth 1/1 SD or pale navy.
5 = no barriness
4–5 = trace barry
4 = slightly barry
3–4 = noticeably barry
3 = considerably barry
2–3 = considerably to very barry
2 = highly barry
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
CH 3 : Auxiliaries
● Low foaming
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
● Very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability
● Metal-free
without product
2% CIBAFAST AO
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
1.4% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red A-2BF 1.9% Ciba® ERIONYL® Green A-BG
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
PA
without
aftertreatment
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
● Instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines
● Promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling
● Low odor
Wetting/deaerating/defoaming
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
● Specially recommended for jet and overflow machines and machines with short liquor or air stream
technology alternative
● Low odor
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
CIBAFLUID® C lubricant
● Reduces creasing in piece dyeing
● Markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction
● Prevents cracks and abrasion marks
● No adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath
● No retarding effect
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
● Outstanding coverage of barriness and improvement of migration with 1:2 metal complex dyes
Coverage of barriness/leveling
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
1%
UNIVADINE MC NEW
without leveler
2%
UNIVADINE MC NEW
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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries
Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE
NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes
● Highly efficient HT-stable leveling agents with reproducible results
● UNIVADINE PA NEW helps to achieve highest standards of levelness with balanced migration and
coverage of barriness. Has no negative retarding and blocking effect
● UNIVADINE NT NEW promotes customary standards of levelness with very good coverage of barriness
and migration
Covering of barriness/leveling
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
without
2% UNIVADINE PA NEW
2% UNIVADINE NT NEW
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CH 4 : Miscellaneous
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