Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Rating: GOOD
Categories: Texture Enhancer
A synthetic ingredient used to enhance the texture of skincare and haircare products. The Cosmetic Ingredient
Review has deemed it safe as it is currently used in cosmetics.
Allantoin
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin-Soothing
By-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective skin-soothing and skin-conditioning
agent. Allantoin occurs naturally in the body. It can be extracted from plants (comfrey, chamomile) or made
synthetically—the most common method for inclusion in cosmetics where it’s used in concentrations upwards
of 2%.
Alpha isomethyl ionone
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts
Volatile fragrance and flavoring ingredient that must be listed on products that contain it due to its risk of
causing a sensitized reaction at concentrations as low as 0.001%. It’s an ingredient to avoid if you have
sensitive skin, especially because it’s almost always combined with other volatile fragrance components such as
linalool and eugenol.
Betaine salicylate
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Exfoliant
Derived from sugar beets, this ingredient is sometimes used as an alternative to the exfoliating ingredient
salicylic acid in countries where the usage of salicylic acid is prohibited or the amount permitted is severely
restricted. Although betaine salicylate appears to be promising, there’s no independent research to go on, and no
independent studies comparing its effectiveness to the well-established BHA ingredient salicylic acid.
The only research about betaine salicylate comes from Arch Personal Care Products, an ingredient manufacturer
that sells this ingredient. According to their information based on in vivo testing, betaine salicylate shows
comparable effectiveness to salicylic acid at double the concentration. So, in seems that in order to get the same
results from betaine salicylate as a product with 2% salicylic acid, a 4% concentration of betaine salicylate is
necessary.
Interestingly, like salicylic acid, betaine salicylate’s effectiveness is pH-dependent, with a pH range of 3.8-4.2
being needed.
Anecdotal information from consumers who’ve tried products with betaine salicylate and salicylic acid is
mixed; some people report better results and tolerability with betaine salicylate, while others report that salicylic
acid worked better, without any unwanted effects. Our advice? Unless you know your skin cannot tolerate or
doesn’t respond well to leave-on exfoliants with salicylic acid, there’s little reason to seek out an exfoliant with
betaine salicylate. However, if you live in a country where salicylic acid’s use in skincare is unusually
restricted, betaine salicylate exfoliants are worth checking out, but be sure the concentration is at least 4%.
Butyrospermum parkii butter (Shea butter)
Rating: BEST
Categories: Plant Extracts, Emollients, Skin-Replenishing, Antioxidants
This plant lipid, extracted from the karite tree is used as an emollient in cosmetics and has smoothing properties
for dry skin. Shea butter doesn’t just have a rich texture; it’s also a rich source of antioxidants, including
quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, as well as skin-replenishing fatty acids (stearic
and linoleic). It is a wonderful ingredient to see in products designed to improve dry skin.
Caprae lac extract (Goat milk)
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin smoothing and conditioning
Goat milk contains alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid which help remove dead skin cells from your skin’s
surface. This leaves new cells on the surface of your skin that are smoother and younger looking. The alpha-
hydroxy acids are so effective because they break down the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together.
Removing dead skin cells will help many skin conditions by removing irritation.
Contains many vitamins, but is particularly high in Vitamin A, which is necessary to repair damaged skin tissue,
and maintain healthy skin. There have been several medical studies showing that creams made with Vitamin A
reduce lines and wrinkles, control acne, and provide some psoriasis relief. The cream that is present in goat milk
helps boost the moisturizing quality of cosmetic products.
Contains important minerals for the skin such as selenium. Selenium is believed by scientists to have an
important role in preventing skin cancer. Selenium can also help prevent damage to the skin from excessive
time in the sun.
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
Rating: BEST
Categories: Plant Extracts, Emollients, Texture Enhancer
Derived from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient.
It’s included in cosmetics due to its mix of fatty acids that skin can use to replenish its surface and resist
moisture loss. Caprylic/capric triglyceride can also function as a thickener, but its chief job is to moisturize and
replenish skin. This ingredient’s value for skin is made greater by the fact that it’s considered gentle.
Ceteareth-20
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Texture Enhancer
Fatty alcohol that is used to thicken cosmetics and keep ingredients mixed together and stable.
Cetearyl alcohol
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Texture Enhancer, Emollients
Fatty alcohol that is a mixture of gentle cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It’s used as an emollient, texture enhancer,
foam stabilizer, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol,
or made synthetically. It is almost always combined with similar-feeling ingredients to create a product’s
texture and influence its slip when applied to skin.
Cosmetic products labeled "alcohol free" are allowed to contain cetearyl alcohol, whose effects are quite
different from skin-aggravating forms of alcohol. We repeat: fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol do not pose a
risk of sensitizing skin.
Citronellol
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts
A volatile fragrance chemical extracted from geranium, rose, and other plants, citronellol has a characteristic
grassy, citrus-like scent. Applied to skin, it can cause aggravation when exposed to air. This exposure causes the
unstable citronellol molecule to oxidize, which is believed to trigger aggravation on skin.
Collagen amino acids
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Hydration, Skin-Replenishing
Collagen amino acids are made from the hydrolysis (breaking down with water) of protein, resulting in a high
amount of a single amino acid, hydroxyproline, which serves to increase skin’s moisture levels and smoothness.
Cyclohexasiloxane
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Emollients
One of the numerous forms of synthetic silicone used in haircare and skincare products to improve texture, add
shine (to hair) and impart emollience.
Cyclopentasiloxane
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Emollients
Lightweight silicone with a silky, slippery feel that functions as a skin/hair conditioning agent.
Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Antioxidants
An ester that functions as an antioxidant and helps protect cosmetics products from chemical or physical
deterioration induced by light.
Disodium EDTA
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Uncategorized
Short for disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. Used as a chelating agent in cosmetic products, meaning it
prevents ingredients in a formula from binding with trace elements (mainly minerals) that can be present in
water. Studies have found that EDTAs, including disodium EDTA, as used in cosmetic formulations are safe.
DMDM Hydantoin
Rating: AVERAGE
Categories: Preservatives
Synthetic, formaldehyde-releasing preservative that has mixed research on its potential to aggravate skin.
Despite its connection to formaldehyde, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board has confirmed the safety of this
preservative in three separate reviews, each spaced several years apart.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Miscellaneous, Preservatives
A synthetic skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other
preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.
Geraniol
Rating: AVERAGE
Categories: Sensitizing, Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts
A volatile fragrance ingredient extracted from geranium, geraniol is capable of causing sensitivity when applied
to skin. However, the risk of such reaction has to do with depth of penetration into skin, and geraniol doesn’t
penetrate skin easily. As such, although it’s not a great ingredient to see on a label if you have sensitive skin, it
isn’t among the most troublesome fragrance ingredients when used in low concentrations. Despite the lesser
concern, research has shown that, like many fragrant oil components, geraniol can oxidize in the presence of air,
causing damage when applied to skin's surface.
Glycerin
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin-Replenishing, Skin-Restoring
Also called glycerol or glycerine, glycerin is a humectant that’s present in all natural lipids (fats), whether
animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of
sugars; it also can be synthetically manufactured, which is usually the case with modern-day skincare products.
Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin,
helping to establish normal balance and hydration. It’s one of the many substances in skin that helps maintain a
healthy look and feel, defending against dryness and working to maintain skin’s moisture level.
Essentially, glycerin is a master at hydration, and works best when combined with other replenishing and
emollient ingredients.
Some people wonder whether using products with glycerin takes too much water from skin when there isn’t
enough humidity in the air. This can occur with pure glycerin (100% concentration—an amount that’s never
used in skincare products). Any humectant (including glycerin) used in pure form can increase water loss by
attracting water from the lower layers of skin into the surface layers when the climate is too arid (low humidity).
For this reason, glycerin and humectants are typically used in concentrations of 5% or less and always
combined with other ingredients to soften skin. In fact, glycerin combined with other emollients and/or oils is a
fundamental cornerstone of most moisturizers.
Glyceryl stearate SE
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Thickeners/Emulsifiers, Emollients
Widely used ingredient that is a self-emulsifying (that’s what the “SE” stands for) form of glyceryl stearate.
Glycine soja oil
Rating: BEST
Categories: Plant Extracts, Emollients, Antioxidants
Non-fragrant plant oil from soy that has been hydrogenated so it retains a semi-solid rather than liquid state.
Hexyl cinnamal
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts, Sensitizing
Fragrance ingredient used in many perfumes and often seen in fragranced skincare products. Hexyl cinnamal
imparts a jasmine-like scent. It’s considered a skin sensitizer, which is why it must be called out on an
ingredient statement, whereas in the past a cosmetics company could lump ingredients like hexyl cinnamal into
the catchall term “fragrance.”
Hyaluronic acid
Rating: BEST
Categories: Antioxidants, Skin-Replenishing, Skin-Restoring
Component of skin tissue. Synthetic variations are used in skincare products to function as a superior skin-
replenishing ingredient. Hyaluronic acid has restorative abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, soothe,
and defend against moisture loss. It is capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it
an optimal hydrator for all skin types.
In addition to its function as a superior skin-restoring ingredient, hyaluronic acid also provides an antioxidant
defense against environmental assault. For more info about hyaluronic acid, please see our article, How
Hyaluronic Acid Benefits Skin.
Hydrolyzed elastin
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Skin conditioning, Antistatic, Film forming, Hair conditioning, Humectant
Imidazolidinyl urea
Rating: AVERAGE
Categories: Preservatives
Preservative considered weaker than its “cousin” diazolidinyl urea. Most often used with parabens because they
work well together. Imidazolidinyl urea is considered a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Although that
sounds scary, the amount of formaldehyde released is well below the limits for safe exposure.
Isopropyl myristate
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Texture Enhancer, Emollients
Texture enhancer and emollient as used in cosmetics. There is also research showing it can help enhance the
absorption of ingredients in a cosmetic formula.
Isopropyl myristate is often called out as being a particularly bad pore-clogging ingredient; however, this
assessment comes from dated research that doesn’t apply to how this ingredient is used in today’s cosmetics.
Limonene
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts, Sensitizing
Chemical constituent of many natural fragrant ingredients, notably citrus oils such as lemon (d-limonene) and
pine trees or species of the mint family (l-limonene).
Topically, limonene can cause sensitivity and is best avoided. Also, because of its penetration-enhancing effects
on skin, it’s particularly important to avoid products that contain limonene plus other skin sensitizers like
denatured alcohol.
Like most volatile fragrance components, limonene also has strong antioxidant benefits and has also been
shown to calm skin; however, when exposed to air these highly volatile antioxidant compounds oxidize and
become capable of sensitizing skin.
Linalool
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts, Sensitizing
Fragrant component of lavender and coriander that can be a potent skin sensitizer.
Linoleic acid
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin-Soothing, Antioxidants, Skin-Restoring, Emollients
Unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid found in corn, safflower, and sunflower oils and used as an emollient and
thickening agent in cosmetics. There is some research showing it to be effective as a skin restorative, an
antioxidant and as a skin-soothing agent.
Panthenol
Rating: BEST
Categories: Vitamins
Alcohol form of the B vitamin pantothenic acid. Panthenol is used in skincare products as a humectant because
of its ability to attract and hold moisture.
Sometimes called pro-vitamin B5, panthenol mixes readily with many different types of ingredients, making it a
versatile ingredient to be used in formulas because it improves the look and feel of skin.
Parabens
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Preservatives
Parabens are a group of controversial preservatives that include butylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben,
methylparaben, and ethylparaben. All of these were at one time the most widely used group of preservatives
used in cosmetics. Parabens were so popular because of their gentle, non-sensitizing, and highly effective
profile in comparison to other preservatives but also because they were derived naturally from plants, a rare
phenomenon for a preservative. Parabens are found in plants in the form of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA), a
chemical that breaks down to become parabens for a plants own protection.
Over the past 10 years parabens have become criticized and condemned for use in cosmetics due to their alleged
relation to health concerns affecting women and men. The research about parabens is conflicting and polarizing.
Some research indicates they are safe as used in cosmetics and are preferred over other preservatives to keep a
formula stable. These studies also showed parabens did not have any effect when compared to natural hormones
in the body.
However, other research has concluded they are indeed problematic: Some studies determined a 100%
concentration of parabens caused skin samples (meaning not intact skin on a person) to break down. However,
these studies don’t apply to the tiny amount (1% or less) of parabens typically used in cosmetics. In low
amounts, parabens were not shown to harm skin; in fact, they offer a benefit due to their ability to thwart the
growth of mold, fungi, and harmful pathogens.
Other studies casting parabens in a negative light were based on force-feeding them to rats, a practice that is not
only cruel but unrelated to what happens when parabens are applied to skin. There are studies indicating
absorption of parabens through skin associated with application of skincare products, but those studies did not
take into consideration that parabens are still used as food-grade preservatives or found naturally in plants and
that could have been the source not the cosmetics. We also looked at studies showing other questionable effects
but those were done in vitro meaning in a petri dish or, again, animal studies in species whose biologic makeup
does not closely relate to people.
Paraffinum liquidum
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Emollients
The Latin name for emollient ingredient mineral oil, also known as liquid paraffin. This term is acceptable to
use on cosmetic ingredient lists, but should ideally be followed by “(mineral oil)” so it’s clear to the consumer
what they’re getting.
Parfum (Fragrance)
Rating: POOR
Categories: Fragrance: Synthetic and Fragrant Plant Extracts, Sensitizing
One or a blend of volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to
products. These are often skin sensitizers because they are composed of hundreds of individual chemical
components. Fragrance is a leading source of sensitivity to cosmetics.
PEG compound (Polyethylene glycol)
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Cleansing Agents, Emollients
Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of ingredients
that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (which keep ingredients
blended), stabilizers, and emollients. Common PEG ingredients include the thickening and emulsifying agent
PEG-100 stearate, and many PEG compounds combined with hydrogenated oils, which function as emollients
or binding agents. PEG compounds may also function as cleansing agents; for example, PEG-7 glyceryl
cocoate, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, and PEG-40 stearate are mild cleansing agents.
The greater the number following the PEG designation, the “heavier” and more complex the molecule. For
example, PEG-200 palm glyceride is a heavier ingredient than PEG-100 stearate. PEG compounds are widely
used throughout the cosmetics industry. They’ve been extensively tested and are considered safe for use in
cosmetics products.
Petrolatum
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Skin-Soothing, Emollients
Vaseline is pure petrolatum, and petrolatum is a rich emollient and FDA-approved skin protectant. It is one of
the best ingredients for dry to very dry skin, including around the eyes. Although derived from crude oil (thus
making petrolatum a natural ingredient), it is highly purified prior to being used in cosmetics, so there’s no risk
of exposure to unwanted chemicals.
For some unknown and unsubstantiated reason and despite solid research to the contrary, petrolatum has
attained a negative image in regard to skin. Topical application of petrolatum can help replenish, soothe and
beautifully moisturize skin’s outer layer. It’s widely considered safe and highly effective. Extensive clinical
data has shown petrolatum to be a gentle ingredient.
Phenoxyethanol
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Preservatives
Phenoxyethanol is a widely used synthetic preservative that has global approval for use in all cosmetic products
in concentrations up to 1%. It’s often used in even lower amounts, such as when combined with other
ingredients like ethylhexylglycerin. In this case, lower amounts of phenoxyethanol can be just as effective as the
maximum approved amount.
Phenoxyethanol is incredibly versatile: It works in a large range of formulas and pH ranges, has broad spectrum
activity against many pathogens you don’t want multiplying in your skincare products, is stable, and is
compatible with many other preservatives used in cosmetics.
Phenoxyethanol has become the new skincare ingredient to be demonized by various retail/natural marketing
cosmetic companies and websites. The controversy is similar to the absurdity over paraben preservatives.
Parabens were made evil in skincare products because of studies showing they are endocrine disruptors, but
parabens don’t have that property when they absorb into skin. Much like parabens, phenoxyethanol being a
problem in cosmetics is based on research that has nothing to do with skincare. The negative research about
phenoxyethanol is not about the cosmetics-grade version. That’s a big difference. Even plant extracts have to be
purified when they are removed from the ground and put into skincare products. No one wants worms, fertilizer,
heavy metals, and dirt in their products. Phenoxyethanol is the same situation, it is purified before it is used in
cosmetic formulations.
As with many cosmetic ingredients, concentration matters. A 100% concentration of phenoxyethanol comes
with some scary warnings. For example, the Safety Data Sheet on this preservative describes it as harmful if it
contacts skin, is inhaled, or gets in to the eyes. Animal studies have shown it causes reproductive and
developmental toxicity—no wonder some panic is occurring! As it turns out, the animal studies were about
mice being fed large doses of this preservative, not about it being applied to skin, absorbing, and then causing
reproductive or developmental harm. If you fed mice mass amounts of lavender or other essential oils, they
would suffer terrible consequences.
The rest of the alarming studies are about using phenoxyethanol in full-strength or atypically high
concentrations, not the amounts of 1% or less used in cosmetic products. Think of it as the difference between
taking one sip of wine versus chugging several bottles at once!
Back to topical use, research has shown that compared to many other preservatives, the incidence of a sensitized
or allergic reaction to phenoxyethanol applied as used in cosmetics is rare. But the truth is all preservatives,
even the natural ones, carry some risk of sensitizing skin. That’s because preservatives of any kind are meant to
kill fungus, bacteria, and mold and that can negatively impact skin. Ironically, in order for natural preservatives
to be effective, they have to be used in much higher amounts than synthetic preservatives, typically up to 10%.
This higher amount poses irritation and sensitizing problems for skin, so natural preservatives aren’t a slam-
dunk replacement for synthetics, not even close.
An interesting factoid: although the phenoxyethanol used in skincare products is synthetic, this chemical occurs
naturally in green tea, just like parabens occur naturally in berries and other natural foods.
Polysorbates
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Cleansing Agents
Large group of ingredients (including the common polysorbate 20) most often derived from lauric acid, which
is derived from coconuts. Polysorbates function as emulsifiers and also have mild surfactant properties; some
polysorbates are derived from the food ingredient sorbitol, which occurs naturally in many fruits, while others
have a fatty acid component. Polysorbates are considered non-toxic and safe as used in the concentrations found
in cosmetics and food products (in food products, polysorbates function as stabilizers).
Propylene glycol
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Texture Enhancer
Along with other glycols and glycerol, propylene glycol is a humectant (hydrating) and delivery ingredient used
in cosmetics.
There are websites and spam e-mails stating that propylene glycol is really industrial antifreeze and that it’s the
major ingredient in brake and hydraulic fluids. These sites also state that tests show it’s a strong skin sensitizer.
They further point out that the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on propylene glycol warns users to avoid
skin contact. As ominous as this sounds, it’s so far from the reality of cosmetics formulations that almost none
of it holds any water or poses any real concern.
In fact, research from toxicologists has shown that propylene glycol and similar ingredients don’t present a
health risk for people when used in cosmetics.
It’s important to realize that the MSDS refers to a 100% concentration of a substance. Even water and salt have
frightening comments regarding their safety according to their MSDS reports.
In cosmetics, propylene glycol is used in small amounts to keep products from melting in high heat or from
freezing. It also helps active ingredients penetrate skin. In the amounts used in cosmetics, it’s not a concern in
the least.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board and other groups have analyzed all of the toxicology data and exposure
studies concerning topical application of propylene glycol as commonly used in cosmetics products. Their
conclusion was that it is safe and does not pose a health risk to consumers.
Retinyl palmitate
Rating: BEST
Categories: Antioxidants, Skin-Restoring, Vitamins
Combination of retinol (pure vitamin A) and the fatty acid palmitic acid. Research has shown it to be an
effective antioxidant when applied to skin. You may be surprised to learn that retinyl palmitate is found
naturally in our skin, where it works as an antioxidant, particularly in regard to helping protect skin from UV
light exposure - though it does not replace the need for sunscreen.
Reports that retinyl palmitate is not a safe ingredient are false. They’re based on a study from nearly 20 years
ago that has never been reproduced or tested under real-life conditions such as how people use sunscreens that
contain this ingredient. In addition, to date, there is no scientific evidence that retinyl palmitate is a carcinogen
in humans. The safety of retinyl palmitate is supported by several accredited organizations and their opinions
are widely available online. If you still have concerns, we encourage you to research the topic further.
Saccharomyces / Xylinum (black tea)
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin-Soothing, Plant Extracts, Antioxidants
Sodium hyaluronate
Rating: BEST
Categories: Skin-Replenishing, Antioxidants, Skin-Restoring
Salt form of skin-replenishing ingredient hyaluronic acid; considered more effective for skin than pure
hyaluronic acid due to its greater compatibility.
Triethanolamine
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Miscellaneous, Emulsifiers
Used in cosmetics as a pH balancer and emulsion stabilizer. Like all amines, it has the potential for creating
nitrosamines. There’s controversy as to whether or not this poses a real problem for skin, given the low
concentrations used in cosmetics and the theory that nitrosamines cannot penetrate skin.
Triethanaolime is typically used in amounts less than 1% in cosmetics; concentrations of 2.5% have been found
to be non-irritating when applied to skin. It is also added to foods.
Triticum vulgare germ oil (Wheat germ oil)
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Plant Extracts, Skin-Softening, Emollients
From the germ portion of the wheat plant. In cosmetics, this ingredient functions as a skin-softening and hair-
conditioning agent. As its derived from wheat, it's a source of the protein gluten.
Tocopherol / Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E)
Rating: BEST
Categories: Antioxidants, Vitamins
One of the most well-known and researched antioxidants for the body and for skin. Vitamin E occurs naturally
in human skin, but can become depleted due to constant environmental exposure in the absence of sun
protection.
There are eight basic forms of the entire fat soluble vitamin E molecule, which are either synthetically or
naturally derived. The most typical forms are d-alpha-tocopherol, d-alpha-tocopherol acetate, dl-alpha
tocopherol, and dl-alpha tocopherol acetate.
The "d" prefix in front of the "alpha" indicates that the product was derived from natural sources, such as
vegetable oils or wheat germ; the "dl" prefix indicates that the vitamin was created from a synthetic base.
Research has shown that natural forms of vitamin E are more effective than their synthetic counterparts, but
both definitely have antioxidant activity.
What about using pure vitamin E on scars? Although this is a popular tip, research has shown doing so isn’t
effective and in some cases can actually make matters worse.
Urea
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Exfoliant, Hydration, Skin-Replenishing
Component of urine, although synthetic versions are used in cosmetics. In small amounts, urea has beneficial
water-binding and mild exfoliating properties for skin. In larger concentrations it can cause sensitivity, though
large amounts can also exfoliate skin. Urea can enhance the absorption of other cosmetic ingredients.
Water
Rating: GOOD
Categories: Miscellaneous
Most widely used cosmetic ingredient; water is almost always listed first on an ingredient label because it is
usually the ingredient with the highest concentration in the formula. Despite claims of skin’s need for hydration
and claims regarding special types of water, it turns out that water may not be an important ingredient for skin.
Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part
of the epidermis. Studies that have compared the water content of dry skin with that of normal or oily skin do
not find a statistically significant difference in moisture levels between them.
Further, too much water can be a problem for skin because it can disrupt the essential substances in skin's
surface layers that keep it intact, smooth, and healthy-looking. As an example, recall how skin on your fingers
and toes "prunes" when you soak in the bathtub or other body of water for too long.