Left: The "Scotwood" jumped right out of the water at the prop took

hold. It corrected itself and tore off across the lake at high speed. Below:
Note how the air-cooled Atwood motor mounts on the transom.

"SCATWOOD"
by Harry H. English

Another FM first! A speedy model hydro, spec-

ially designed for those new outboard "gassies"

without fear of warping ENGINE AND RUNNING: At the time

the plywood structure. this article was written, there were only
three model outboard engines on the
TOP COVERING: market: The Atwood air-cooled, the
The top covering is Atwood water-cooled, and the Allyn "Sea
probably the most Fury" (also air-cooled). Our choice of
difficult part of the power for the "Scat" was an Atwood air-
construction, since it is cooled, since the boat is fast enough to
advisable to hold the afford sufficient air-cooling and also
• No doubt you've watched full-scale sheeting in place without pinning through because the cylinder head faces forward
outboard hydroplanes do their stuff and the structure. Here mahogany veneer into the airstream. The water-cooled
marveled at their speed. Here's your makes an excellent (and cheaper!) version is shown on the plan.
chance to build a replica of one of these substitute for plywood. Apply the When you've finished the model, head
"gallopi' shingles." Though a little covering in three sections: One for the for the nearest lake or wading-pool and
unorthodox in hull design, "Scatwood" is front of the hull (from bulkhead No. 6 try it out. There are two methods of
a semi-scale three-point suspension hydro forward), and one for each side of the running the boat, each of which has
which, with an air-cooled or water-cooled cockpit from bulkhead No. 6 aft. certain advantages. Tethering the model
outboard engine on its transom, will hit will (in our opinion) be probably the most
speeds of 25 to 35 m.p.h.—scale speed far SPONSONS: After completing all the popular since it affords a method by
exceeding that of its big brothers. hull structure, cement the upper and lower which the boat may be timed for speed
Construction of the "Scat" is simple— sponson blocks together and cement them runs (ordinary controline speed charts
start by studying the plans, then get to in place on the sides and bottom. Wait should suffice for m.p.h.). Running the
work cutting out the parts. Though we until they are thoroughly dry before model free (turn may be controlled by
used plywood throughout, 1/28" starting to carve. Cut the sponsons to adjusting: the engine's mounting angle) in
mahogany veneer may be substituted very shape using the template given on the full- circles will also be popular —we've run
successfully for all plywood sheeting. size parts page. A very sharp penknife is OUTS in a nine-foot-diameter plastic
Don't spare the cement, for, though we excellent for finishing the carving. Do the wading pool without .any colliding with
purposely made "Scat" plenty beefy, the final shaping with fine sandpaper—then the sides of the pool.
final weight ready to run was only eleven add the fillets (No. 8).
ounces, and it really moves out. BILL OF MATERIALS (Balsa unless
FINISH: After sanding the model otherwise specified)
COCKPIT: Build the cockpit first by thoroughly, apply a couple of coats of 2-1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 6"
cementing the sides of it to bulkheads No. your favorite wood-filler to the exposed (medium)........................Sponsons
2 (1/8" plywood transom) and No. 5. This portions of the boat (we prefer ordinary 2-3/8" x 3/8" x 6"
box is then ready to be cemented to the automobile primer) and allow to dry well, (medium)..............................Sponsons
hull bottom. Make sure you leave room being sure all cracks, etc., are well filled. 1-1/8" x 1-7/8" x 2"
for bulkhead No. 1 before cementing it in Now sand until smooth, using wet (plywood)..........................Transom
position. sandpaper or emery paper, and you're 1-1/16" x 8" x 8"
ready to color-dope the model. Two or (plywood)............Bulkheads, fillets
HULL: Now add the remaining three coats brushed or sprayed on, and 1-1/16" x 6" x 18" (plywood)...............
bulkheads to the 16-1/4" hull bottom sheet sanded between, should suffice. ...Hull bottom
and fit and cement the sides in place. At If a real glossy finish is wanted, apply 1-1/32" x 6" x 36" (plywood) Hull
this point, in order to assure waterproof two or three thin coats of clear dope over sides., top, cockpit
compartments throughout the boat, re- this, and compound it with Simonize. Wood sealer; cement; colored dope as
cement all joints, being sure all pinholes, Unless you're messy at filling gas tanks, desired; clear dope; fuel-proofer, if
if any, are filled. A coat or two of thin there is no real need for fuel proofing. desired; sandpaper; rubbing compound;
dope or wood filler may also be added Atwood or Allyn outboard engine.

BOAT MODELS (FLYING MODELS JUNE, 1954) 37