Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 43, June 2018, pp. 164-172

Influence of ring frame process parameters on yarn structure and fabric assistance
Saiyed M Ishtiaquea, Dipanjan Ghosh & Vijay K Yadav
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi 110 016, India

Received 20 October 2016; accepted 23 November 2016

An attempt has been made to study the influence of ring frame parameters i.e. yarn twist multiplies, spindle speed and
ring frame draft on yarn characteristics to exploit the translation of yarn structures into the fabric assistance. Understanding
the relationship between yarn structure and fabric strength helps in engineering the yarn structure to improve the strength
translation of yarns to fabric strength. Accordingly, study on fabric strength in weft/warp direction per yarn, weft/ warp
break force inside fabric, weft/warp pull-out force and yarn failure zone length are also carried out. Yarn structure is found
to affect the fabric thickness and fabric tensile behaviour. The yarn diameter has a direct effect on the yarn pull out force.
The yarn structure also plays a dominant role in deciding the yarn failure zone length.

Keywords: Fabric assistance, Fabric strength, Yarn diameter, Yarn packing density, Yarn radial packing density,
Yarn structure

1 Introduction affecting packing factor of yarns have been

Evaluation of yarn strength is one of the critical systematically studied10-12, but the reports on scientific
aspects of yarn quality in spinning industry1. research on interrelationship between processing
However, evaluation of yarns in terms of their likely parameters during yarn manufacturing and fabric
performance in subsequent fabric manufacturing assistance characteristics are scanty. Understanding
process and contribution of their strength to fabric are the relationship between yarn structure and fabric
necessary from a fabric producer point of view2. It is strength helps in engineering the yarn structure to
established that the structure and mechanical improve the strength translation of yarns into the
properties of textile fabrics are closely related3,4. The fabric. The development of new yarn structures raises
tensile strength of a fabric is recognized as one of the questions about the nature and quality of fabric made
most important quality parameters of fabric5. It not from these yarns. Hence, an attempt has been made in
only depends on the strength of the constituent yarns, the present work to study the influence of ring frame
but also on the yarn structure as well6,7. Yarn structure parameters, i.e. yarn twist multiplies, spindle
definitely assists to bring changes in fabric strength7. speed and ring frame draft on yarn characteristics to
The packing characteristics of the fibres in the yarn exploit the effective translation of yarn structures into
and, in particular, radial packing density of yarn have the fabric assistance.
direct bearing on the fabric geometry8,9. These factors
are responsible to change the characteristics of 2 Materials and Methods
interlacement point between warp and weft and Cotton fibre having following properties was used
accordingly influence the frictional resistance towards for the present study:
the fabric extension. The degree of these changes is Property Value
likely to be different for different yarns made on Average fineness : 1.3 dtex
a particular spinning system having different 2.5% span length : 27.7mm
structure duly influenced by the considered spinning Uniformity ratio : 48%
parameters of yarn. Although yarn structure, as factor SFI : 11.6
influencing the fabric assistance, has been mentioned Tenacity : 20.6 cN/tex
in literature, still adequate research has not been Trash content : 2.54%
carried out in this direction. The process parameters
2.1 Preparation of Sample
——————
a
Corresponding author. Yarns of 20 tex linear density was produced using
E-mail: [email protected] rovings of three different linear densities. Total seven
 ISHTIAQUE et al.: INFLUENCE OF RING FRAME PROCESS PARAMETERS ON YARN STRUCTURE 165

yarns to be used as weft were produced from Table 1 — Yarn process parameters
considered rovings. The details of processing Yarn code A B C D E F G
parameters are given Table 1. Accordingly, seven TM 4 4 4 3.5 4.5 4 4
different woven fabrics were produced maintaining Draft 22.7 22.7 22.7 22.7 22.7 30.05 39.42
100% cotton yarn of 20 tex linear density as common Spindle 10000 13000 16000 13000 13000 13000 13000
warp and researched yarns as weft. All the samples speed, rpm
were produced at the fixed fabric sett of 29 ends/cm
Table 2 — Effect of ring frame draft
and 17 picks/cm.
Yarn code B F G
2.2 Evaluation of Yarn Properties TM 4 4 4
Yarn tensile strength was measured on Instron Draft 22.7 30.05 39.42
tensile tester at a gauge length of 50 mm and testing Spindle speed, rpm 13000 13000 13000
speed of 100 mm/min due to specific requirements. Weft yarn diameter, µm 209.86 199.04 190.72
Yarn diameters were measured on Leica projection Strength of weft yarn, kg 0.196 0.2255 0.2282
microscope at 150 randomly selected points along the Weft pullout force from fabric, kg 0.1562 0.1503 0.1438
Weft break inside fabric, kg 0.2412 0.2416 0.2389
length of the yarn. Rothschild tensiometer-2000 was
Fabric strength in weft direction, kg 19.05 20.14 19.33
used to measure the yarn-to-yarn coefficient of Fabric strength in weft direction/thread 0.2241 0.2369 0.2274
friction (ASTM standard: D 3412-01). The details of Strength of warp yarn, kg 0.3362 0.3362 0.3362
yarn properties are given in Tables 2-4. Warp pullout from fabric, kg 0.1718 0.1691 0.1638
Warp break inside fabric, kg 0.4227 0.4134 0.4027
2.3 Evaluation of Fabric Properties
Fabric strength in warp direction, kg 51.5 51.03 50.09
Fabric samples were subsequently subjected to
Fabric strength in warp direction/thread 0.3552 0.3519 0.3454
tensile testing on Instron tensile tester using a testing Coefficient of friction 0.607 0.602 0.612
speed of 100 mm/min. The specifications of fabric Fabric strength in weft direction per 1.143 1.05 1.021
samples used in the strip test are given below: thread/strength of weft yarn
 Length of the fabric strip–75 mm Weft pull out force from fabric/ 0.648 0.622 0.602
 Width of the fabric strip–35 mm weft break force in fabric
Weft break force in fabric/ 1.231 1.071 1.072
 Distance between the two jaws–50 mm strength of weft yarn
 Width of the strip–25 mm (excluding ravelled Fabric strength in weft direction/ 97.19 89.31 86.76
portion) strength of weft yarn
The results of tensile properties of woven fabrics Fabric strength in warp direction per 1.057 1.047 1.027
are shown in Tables 2-4. Single yarn pulling force thread/strength of warp yarn
Warp pull out force from fabric/ 0.406 0.409 0.407
from the fabric sample was measured using Instron warp break force in fabric
tensile tester at a crosshead speed of 100 mm/min. Warp break force in fabric/ 1.257 1.229 1.198
During the experiment, the upper jaw gripped only the strength of warp yarn
upper portion of the pulling yarn, whereas the lower Fabric strength in warp direction/ 153.18 151.78 148.99
jaw gripped all the yarns of the fabric sample except strength of warp yarn
the lower portions of the pulling yarn. Single yarn Length of failure zone for
Single yarn break, mm 2.25 2.2 2.18
breaking force inside the fabric sample was also
Single yarn break inside the fabric, mm 1.31 1.25 1.15
measured using Instron tensile tester at a crosshead Fabric tensile test, mm 0.92 0.87 0.81
speed of 100 mm/min. During the experiment, the
upper jaw gripped only the upper portion of the ×40 magnification. The captured images are classified,
pulling yarn, whereas the lower jaw gripped all the depending on the disposition of fibres in the failure
yarns of the fabric sample. For calculating the ratio ends. On the basis of our observations, configuration
between fabric strip strength per thread and single of yarn broken ends could be classified under Sharp,
yarn strength, the corresponding yarn samples were Tapered and Slipped categories13,14. The length of
also tested using Instron tensile tester at 50 mm gauge yarn failure zone is defined as the average length of
length and 100 mm/min crosshead speed. the reduced region of cross-section of one of the
After tensile failure of yarns, both the broken failed ends for each set of experiment13.
ends were collected from the Instron tensile tester and The thickness of fabric was measured as per the
then observed under the Leica digital microscope at ASTM D1777-96(2002) standard test method for
166 INDIAN J. FIBRE. TEXT., RES., JUNE 2018

Table 3 — Effect of spindle speed Table 4 — Effect of twist multiplier

Yarn code A B C Yarn code D B E
TM 4 4 4
TM 3.5 4 4.5
Draft 22.7 22.7 22.7
Draft 22.7 22.7 22.7
Spindle speed, rpm 10000 13000 16000
Spindle speed, rpm 13000 13000 13000
Weft yarn diameter, µm 220 209.86 195.81
Weft yarn diameter, µm 240.87 209.86 196.76
Strength of weft yarn, kg 0.2074 0.196 0.191
Strength of weft yarn, kg 0.1638 0.196 0.2282
Weft pullout force from fabric, kg 0.1664 0.1562 0.145
Weft pullout force from fabric, kg 0.1772 0.1562 0.1396
Weft break force inside fabric, kg 0.258 0.2412 0.2285
Weft break inside fabric, kg 0.2121 0.2412 0.269
Fabric strength in weft direction, kg 20.39 19.05 17.82
Fabric strength in weft direction, kg 17.51 19.05 21.85
Fabric strength in weft direction/thread 0.2399 0.2241 0.2096
Fabric strength in weft 0.206 0.2241 0.254
Strength of warp yarn, kg 0.3362 0.3362 0.3362
direction/thread
Warp pullout force from fabric, kg 0.1806 0.1718 0.1638
Strength of warp yarn, kg 0.3362 0.3362 0.3362
Warp break inside fabric, kg 0.4303 0.4227 0.4134
Warp pullout from fabric, kg 0.1872 0.1718 0.1557
Fabric strength in warp direction, kg 51.71 51.5 50.65
Warp break inside fabric, kg 0.4403 0.4227 0.4134
Fabric strength in warp direction/thread 0.3566 0.3552 0.3493
Fabric strength in warp direction, kg 51.93 51.5 50.25
Coefficient of friction 0.591 0.607 0.602
Fabric strength in warp 0.3581 0.3552 0.3466
Fabric strength in weft direction per 1.157 1.143 1.097
direction/thread
thread/strength of weft yarn
Coefficient of friction 0.612 0.607 0.610
Weft pull out force from fabric/weft 0.645 0.648 0.635
Fabric strength in weft direction per 1.258 1.143 1.126
break force in fabric
thread/strength of weft yarn
Weft break force in fabric/ 1.244 1.231 1.196
strength of weft yarn Weft pull out force from fabric/weft 0.835 0.648 0.509
break force in fabric
Fabric strength in weft 98.31 97.19 93.29
direction/strength of weft yarn Weft break force in fabric/strength of 1.295 1.231 1.179
weft yarn
Fabric strength in warp direction per 1.061 1.057 1.039
thread/strength of warp yarn Fabric strength in weft 106.899 97.193 95.749
direction/strength of weft yarn
Warp pull out force from fabric/ 0.455 0.406 0.396
warp break force in fabric Fabric strength in warp direction per 1.065 1.057 1.031
thread/strength of warp yarn
Warp break force in fabric/ 1.279 1.257 1.229
strength of warp yarn Warp pull out force from fabric/warp 0.425 0.406 0.376
break force in fabric
Fabric strength in warp 153.81 153.18 150.65
direction/strength of warp yarn Warp break force in fabric/strength of 1.309 1.257 1.23
warp yarn
Length of failure zone for
Fabric strength in warp 154.46 153.18 149.47
Single yarn break, mm 2.31 2.25 2.12
direction/strength of warp yarn
Single yarn break inside the fabric, mm 1.41 1.31 1.20
Fabric tensile test, mm 1.10 0.92 0.85 Length of failure zone for
Single yarn break, mm 2.48 2.25 1.89
thickness using Essdiel thickness tester with an Single yarn break inside the fabric, mm 1.52 1.31 1.10
accuracy of 0.01mm. An average of 10 readings was Fabric tensile test, mm 1.21 0.92 0.70
taken for each sample.
reduction in yarn diameter with the increase in the
3 Results and Discussion spindle speed. The increase in spindle speed increases
3.1 Effect of Ring Frame Parameters on Yarn Properties the spinning tension but the selvedge fibres of the
As per the proposed experimental plan given in spinning triangle possess higher tension. The increase
Table 1, the yarn samples have been prepared on the in tension aligned the fibres towards yarn axis. This
ring frame and results are given in Tables 2-4. results in more fibre compactness in yarn and thus
3.1.1 Yarn Diameter and Fibre Compactness in Yarn decreases the yarn diameter. Table 4 shows consistent
The results given in Table 2 indicate the reduction reduction in yarn diameter with the increase in yarn
in yarn diameter with the increase in ring frame draft. twist. The lateral force acting on the fibre assembly
The increase in draft increases drafting force per unit increases with the increase in yarn twist and
mass of fibre and leads to de-crimping of the fibre. accordingly increases the compactness of the fibre
This improves the fibre compactness in the yarn bundle which reduces the yarn diameter. Further,
matrix due to the fibre straightening and hence it is observed from the results that maximum
reduces the yarn diameter. Table 3 clearly shows the reduction in yarn diameter is noticed with the increase
 ISHTIAQUE et al.: INFLUENCE OF RING FRAME PROCESS PARAMETERS ON YARN STRUCTURE 167

of ring frame draft followed by spindle speed and contact area of yarns at crossover point of warp and
twist multiplier. weft in the fabric.
It is known that the increase in draft increases the
3.1.2 Flexural Rigidity
drafting force per unit mass of fibre. The drafting
Table 2 shows that an increase in draft increases
force increases further due to the flattening of roving
the yarn bending rigidity. The increase in draft
at the back-drafting roller nip. The feeding of
increases drafting force per unit mass of fibre and de-
coarsest roving provides maximum spreading of
crimps fibres, which improves the fibre parallelization
roving. Therefore, the fibre ribbon follows highest
in the yarn. This increases the number of fibres per
convergence angle at the nip of front rollers during
unit length in the radial direction of yarn, i.e. more
drafting, accordingly the process aligns the fibres
compactness of the fibres before twisting, which
more closely due to the fibre de-crimping and
results in an increase in the yarn bending rigidity by
straightening. Hence, the increase in draft increases
forming a compact fibre matrix, in particular at the
the compactness of fibre ribbon (bundle) in the
core of yarn.
drafting zones. Therefore, it can be concluded that the
Table 3 shows an increase in yarn bending rigidity
width of the spinning triangle is governed by the
with the increase in spindle speed. This is mainly due
range of used draft. The selvedge fibres of spinning
to the increase in spinning tension with the increase of
triangle will have greater strain and core will be
spindle speed. But the increase in fibre tension will
subjected to compression15.
influence more to selvedge fibres of the spinning
The increase in spindle speed further increases the
triangle which is responsible to make the fibres
spinning tension in yarn balloon, and the core fibres
straighten and strained before twisting. Subsequently,
of the spinning triangle take the axial force, while the
the fibres get more compacted and results in overall
surface fibres take the force radially. The developed
increase of fibre packing in the yarn as well as
radial force tries to push the surface fibres towards the
towards yarn surface. This increase in yarn
yarn core and orients the fibres towards yarn axis.
packing density reduces the fibre mobility during
This leads to further reduction in yarn diameter with
bending which results in increase in bending rigidity
higher fibre packing towards yarn surface in
of the yarn.
comparison to yarn spun at lower spindle speed But,
It is evident from Table 4 that the flexural rigidity
subsequent twist insertion in the yarn retains the
of yarn increases with the increase in yarn twist.
status of fibre straightening and causes fibres to be
The increase of lateral force acting on the fibre
longitudinally strained. They compete to reach the
assembly due to increase in twist levels helps the fibre
position of minimum stress at yarn axis and the extent
bundle to get compressed along its axis and increases
of this movement will necessarily be limited by
the fibre packing per unit cross-sectional area of the
number on physical states of the fibre competing.
yarn. The increase in fibre packing per unit cross-
Therefore, the restricted movement of fibres in the
section leads to increase in bending rigidity of the
spinning triangle is likely to generate slight
yarn. It is observed from Table 4 that from 4.0 to 4.5
hollowness near the yarn axis. But the increase in
TM level, the rate of change in yarn diameter is not
yarn twist increases the lateral force acting on the
as high as in the case from 3.5 to 4.0 TM level. This
fibre assembly which compresses the fibre bundle and
may be due to the limitation of space available in the
further reduces the yarn diameter. On the basis of
yarn body.
above discussions, it is expected that core of the yarn
is likely to have maximum packing density at highest 3.1.3 Yarn Strength
value of ring frame draft but highest spindle speed is The results of yarn strength given in Table 2
likely to generate maximum packing density towards clearly indicate that with the increase in ring frame
yarn surface. Therefore, the proposed approach has draft, yarn strength increases. The increase of ring
created the possibilities to change the radial packing frame draft increases the drafting force per unit mass
density and over all packing density of the yarn by of fibre. The increase in drafting force de-crimps the
optimising the researched variables. Hence, expected fibres during drafting and places the fibres under
change in yarn structure can be exploited for better more tension. The higher tension, in turn, aligned the
translation of yarn properties to optimise the tensile fibre closer to each other due to fibre straightening
properties of the fabrics due to change in frictional and hence the increased packing density of yarn. The
168 INDIAN J. FIBRE. TEXT., RES., JUNE 2018

increase in packing density of yarn enhances the yarn consideration, while addressing the fabric thickness
strength accordingly. It can be observed from Table 3 and tensile properties of fabrics.
that yarn strength decreases with the increase in 3.2.2 Fabric Tensile Strength
spindle speed. The increase in spindle speed increases Evaluation of yarns in terms of their likely
spinning tension in the selvedge fibre of spinning performance in subsequent fabric manufacturing
triangle. Although, increase in spindle speed increases process and contribution of their strength to fabric are
the yarn packing density but it also increases the air necessary from the point of view of fabric producer.
drag and centrifugal force on fibres of the yarn. This The tensile strength of a fabric is recognized as one
is responsible for fibre slippage in the spinning of the most important quality parameters of a fabric.
triangle and thus it reduces the fibre overlap length The results of Table 2 show that an initial increase
and hence the yarn strength. It is further noticed from and then decrease of fabric strength in weft direction
Table 4 that the increase in twist multiplier increases with the increase in ring frame draft though the
yarn strength. The increase in yarn twist increases the strength of weft yarn increases with the increase of
lateral force acting on the fibre assembly. This draft. But the results of fabric strength in warp
compresses the fibre bundle and further increases the direction show the decreasing trend with the increase
yarn packing density which is responsible for increase of draft even though the warp yarn strength is same. It
in yarn strength. Understanding the relationship is evident from Tables 3 and 4 that fabric strength in
between yarn structure and fabric strength often helps weft direction as well as weft yarn strength decrease
in engineering the yarn structure to improve the with the increase of spindle speed but the fabric
strength translation of yarns to fabric strength. strength in weft direction and strength of weft yarn
3.2 Effect of Ring Frame Parameters on Fabric Properties
both increase with the increase in twist multiplier. The
The characteristics of woven fabrics produced from fabric strength in warp direction first decreases and
researched yarns are discussed in this section. then increases with the increase of spindle speed but
continuously decreases with the increase in twist
3.2.1 Fabric Thickness multiplier.
It is observed from Table 2 that the fabric thickness On comparing the results of fabric strength and
reduces with the increase in draft. The reduction in yarn strength, it is observed that the increase in
yarn diameter with the increase in ring frame draft is spindle speed and twist multiplier shows the direct
responsible for the reduction of fabric thickness. relationship with the fabric strength11 and yarn
The effect of spindle speed on thickness of fabric is strength 9, but the increase of draft shows the direct
shown in Table 3. It is evident that the fabric thickness relationship with fabric strength and yarn strength at
reduces with increase in the spindle speed and is due the initial increase of draft only. The results of fabric
to the reduction in yarn diameter with the increase in strength in warp direction show the reduction in fabric
spindle. It is evident that the fabric thickness reduces strength with the increase of draft, spindle speed and
with the increase in yarn twist levels. The reduction in twist multiplier, while yarns of same strength are used
yarn diameter with the increase in twist is responsible for all the considered fabrics. However, it is
to reduce the fabric thickness. interesting to note that out of 7 considered fabrics,
Thickness of the fabric is a function of both yarn yarn D with lowest twist multiplier shows lowest
diameter and yarn structure (i.e. radial packing fabric strength and yarn E with the highest twist
density). It is obvious that the increase in yarn multiplier gives highest fabric strength in weft
diameter should increase the fabric thickness. The direction. But the fabric strength in warp direction is
yarn with same linear density but higher yarn found to be lowest with yarn G made with highest
diameter possesses lower fibre packing density and draft, and the highest fabric strength is observed with
such yarn will get compressed at the crossover point yarn D having lowest twist multiplier. The result of
in the fabric and thus reduces the thickness of the ratio of fabric strength in weft/warp direction to
fabric. It is also observed from the results that the strength of weft/warp yarn shows decreasing trend
reduction in fabric thickness is found to be more with with the increase of considered variables.
draft followed by spindle speed and yarn twist. In a fabric, the cross-section of yarn varies due to
Therefore, yarn flattening at crossover point due to change in frictional contact area of yarns at crossover
structural changes in the yarn should be taken into point of warp and weft, due to some sort of force
 ISHTIAQUE et al.: INFLUENCE OF RING FRAME PROCESS PARAMETERS ON YARN STRUCTURE 169

acting between the yarns in the intersection region16. to strength of weft/warp yarn shows the decreasing
The intersecting yarn only touches the cross-yarn at trends with the increase of ring frame draft, spindle
the point of intersection where the curvature of yarn speed and twist multiplier having higher ratio value in
path is maximum and depends on the yarn diameter case of weft yarn based fabric than the corresponding
and flexural rigidity of yarn. This approach gives warp yarn based fabric. This is mainly due to more
valuable information on the inter-yarn force. end density than pick density in the fabric. It is further
Therefore, based on above observations, it can be noticed that the value of said ratio in weft direction is
concluded that fabric strength is not only depending highly influenced by twist multiplier followed by
on yarn strength but the factors like packing spindle speed and draft. The increase of drafts,
characteristics of the fibres in the yarn, particularly provides lowest range of yarn diameter and
the radial packing density of yarn have direct bearing accordingly highest range of overall yarn packing
on the fabric geometry. These factors are responsible density as well as surface packing density. These
in changing the characteristics of interlacement point factors decrease the area of contact between the yarns
between the warp and the weft and accordingly and, hence show lowest friction level which
influence the frictional resistance towards the fabric ultimately reduces the ratio of fabric strength in weft
extension. Therefore, it is required to carry out direction per yarn to the strength of weft yarn. In
comprehensive study to answer the above points and contrast to this, the increase of twist multiplier
accordingly these are dealt in succeeding sections. provides highest range of yarn diameter and
accordingly lowest range of overall yarn packing
3.2.3 Fabric Strength in Weft and Warp Direction per Yarn
density as well as more open surface structure
The fabric strength is influenced by the frictional
increases the value of considered ratio. The
forces between warp and weft, which is largely
considered ratio in warp direction also follows the
governed by the surface and internal structure of
similar trend. But the fabrics with yarn E show lowest
yarns. It is observed from Tables 2-4 that the trends of
ratio of fabric strength in weft/warp direction per yarn
fabric strength in weft and warp directions per yarn
to strength of weft/warp yarn, while fabrics with D
and respective fabric strength in weft and warp
show the highest ratio value in both the directions.
directions are identical for all considered fabrics. It is
also observed that the increase of fabric strength in 3.2.4 Weft/ Warp Pullout Force from Fabric
weft direction per yarn with the increase of twist As far as yarn pulling force is concerned, the peak
multiplier is more in comparison to the reduction of load corresponds to the maximum force measured
fabric strength in weft direction per yarn with the during a yarn pullout. It is noticed that when the yarn
increase of spindle speed. However, with the increase pulling force reaches the peak value of the load, the
of draft the difference in the levels of change in fabric entire yarn then begins to translate within the fabric,
strength, due to twist multiplier and spindle speed, and the pullout force gradually decreases. Basically,
initially increases and then decreases. The fabric the peak yarn pulling force deals with the static
strength in warp direction per yarn shows a friction between the pull-out yarn and the transverse
decreasing trend, though having minimal difference, yarn in addition to the bending deformation.
with the increase in draft, spindle speed and twist Therefore, the maximum yarn pulling force will be
multiplier. This is because same warp yarn is used for decided by the structural changes in yarns. It is well
all 7 fabrics. The fabrics with yarns D and E show the known that yarn pullout force is governed by the yarn
lowest and highest value of fabric strength in weft bending rigidity and packing density of yarn which
direction per yarn respectively, but the fabric with controls the frictional contact between the yarns. The
yarn G shows lowest and yarn D shows highest value bending rigidity depends on elastic modulus and the
of fabric strength in warp direction per thread among curvature of yarn to which it bends in fabric which is
all 7 considered fabrics. decided by the yarn diameter. But the curvature to
The ratio of fabric strength per yarn to single which a yarn is bend in the fabric is controlled by the
yarn strength provides more practical information to yarn diameter and radial packing density of yarn. The
quantify the fabric assistance and this ratio is results of Tables 2-4 clearly show the reduction of
generally higher than unity. A higher ratio indicates weft/warp pullout force with the increase of draft,
that yarn strengths are exploited more in fabrics. The spindle speed and twist multiplier. Yarn diameter
ratio of fabric strength in weft/warp direction per yarn reduces and yarn packing density increases with the
170 INDIAN J. FIBRE. TEXT., RES., JUNE 2018

increase of considered variables. Further, it is noticed weft/warp yarn, and the fabric with yarn D gives
that the maximum pullout forces in weft direction are highest value of ratio of weft/warp break force in
observed when the yarns to be pulled have highest fabric to strength of weft/warp yarn.
yarn diameter and lowest packing density. In contrast The results of the ratio of weft/warp pullout force
to it, minimum pullout force is observed for lowest to weft/warp break force show a decreasing trend with
yarn diameter and highest yarn packing density. Warp the increase of draft, spindle speed and twist
pullout force is always found to be higher than multiplier. But the value of ratio of weft pull out force
corresponding weft pullout force and the noted trend to weft break force in fabric is significantly higher
is applicable for all three considered variables. It is than the corresponding ratio of warp pull out force to
interesting to note that weft and warp pullout forces warp break force in fabric having ratio values lower
are found to be lowest with yarn E having highest than one. The ratio of weft/warp pullout force to
twist multiplier and are highest with yarn D having weft/warp break force is found to be lowest with
lowest twist multiplier. fabric E, but highest with fabric D in case of weft
and with fabric A in case of warp among all
3.2.5 Weft/ Warp Break Force inside Fabric
considered fabrics.
It is evident from Tables 2-4 that, in general, weft
break force inside fabric decreases with the increase 3.2.6 Yarn Failure Zone Length at Different Stages of Yarn
of draft and spindle speed, but increases with the Break
increase of twist multiplier. As discussed above, the The length of yarn failure zone depends on the
yarn strength increases with the increase of draft and proportion of break/slip fibre during the tensile
twist multiplier but decreases with the increase of rupture of the yarn. Higher proportion of broken
spindle speed. It is further observed that yarn strength fibres leads to shortening of the failure zone. In
is lowest at the least twist multipliers but highest at addition of yarn structure the failure zone is also
the highest twist multiplier as well as highest draft. influenced by spinning technologies, rate of extension
Therefore, it can be concluded that weft break force and gauge length13. In the present study, the yarn
inside fabrics and the corresponding yarn strengths do failure zone length is carried out for the 7 considered
not show the direct relationship and observed trend yarns with in-built structural changes. The study of
can be explained based on structural changes of yarns failure zone length has been carried out at the
as discussed above. The warp break force decreases following three stages of yarn break:
with the increase of all three considered variables. (i) Yarn break during single yarn strength
The warp break force is always found to be measurement
significantly higher than the weft break force for all 7 (ii) Single yarn break inside the fabric
considered fabrics. It is further noticed that the fabrics (iii) Yarn breaks during fabric strength measurement
with yarns D and E give lowest and highest value of 3.3 Influence of Process Parameters on Yarn Failure Zone
weft break force respectively, but the fabric with yarn Tables 2-4 show the results of failure zone length
G shows lowest and the fabric with yarn D shows measured at different stages of yarn breaks influenced
highest value of warp break force among all 7 by ring frame draft, spindle speed and twist
considered fabrics. multiplier. It is observed that the yarn failure zone
The results of the ratio of weft/warp break force length decreases with the increase of draft, spindle
inside fabric to strength of weft/warp yarn depict speed and twist multiplier and the trend is applicable
reducing trend with the increase of draft, spindle for all the three stages of yarn breaks. It is interesting
speed and twist multiplier having highest value with to note that the above trends of yarn failure zone
the change of twist multiplier followed by spindle length do not show direct relationship with yarn
speed and draft. But the values of the ratio of weft strength, but again it is the yarn structure along with
break force inside fabric to strength of weft yarn are yarn breaking conditions under three considered
found to be slightly lower than the corresponding stages which are playing the dominant role to decide
ratio of warp break force in fabric to strength of warp the yarn failure zone length.
yarn; the observed trend is applicable to all The results given in Tables 2-4 indicate the reduction
considered variables. It is interesting to note that the in yarn diameter with the increase in ring frame draft,
fabric with yarn G gives lowest value of the ratio of spindle speed and twist multiplier and relevant
weft/warp break force in fabric to strength of explanations have been discussed in Section 3.1.1
 ISHTIAQUE et al.: INFLUENCE OF RING FRAME PROCESS PARAMETERS ON YARN STRUCTURE 171

The higher packing density of fibres across the elongation curve of fabric possesses three distinct
yarn cross-section brings the fibre closer and regions, the starting region is dominated by frictional
increases the contact points between the fibres. restraint of cross-yarns, followed by de-crimping of
However, the radial packing density picture represents yarns and finally yarn extension. The initial fabric
varying level of compactness of fibres across the yarn modulus is governed by the frictional resistance to
cross-section under axial loading and it generates cross-yarn bending which includes inter-fibre friction.
different level of frictional resistance and accordingly The fabric modulus decreases gradually as the
decides proportion of fibre break and slip in the frictional restraint is overcome. It is mainly because
yarn 9. Therefore, during tensile testing the fibres bear of the force needed to de-crimp the yarn in the
non-uniform loading and, accordingly they show direction of force decreases. After de-crimping, the
combination of fibre breakages and slippages which force rises sharply as fibres in the yarn are strained.
results in different length of the failure zone of the The fabric strength is finally influenced by the degree
yarns. Hence, it can be concluded that the increase of of binding of cross-yarns, which increases inter-fibre
draft, spindle speed and twist multiplier increases the frictional forces and accordingly decides the tensile
yarn packing density9 and higher packing density of strength. The straightening of longitudinal yarns
yarn is responsible to increase the proportion of during tensile test develops compressive forces at the
broken fibres9 which leads to reduction of the yarn points of contact with the cross-yarns. In real fabrics,
failure zone length. the cross-section of yarn varies considerably at
It is further noticed that the yarn failure zone length interlacement points and it depends on yarn diameter
is found to be highest for yarn break during single and packing density of yarn, particularly the radial
yarn strength measurement followed by single yarn packing density of yarn. Further, the decrease of yarn
break inside the fabric and yarn breaks during fabric failure zone length in case of single yarn break inside
strength measurement. The observed trends are the fabric could be due to assistance provided by the
applicable for all three considered process variables. second set of yarns that causes the reduction in
In the case of yarn break during single yarn resulting gauge length at the point of contact with the
strength measurement, the individual fibre of the yarn cross-yarns. But the said reasoning is likely to be
during extension experiences different tension and the more prominent in case of yarn breaks during fabric
amount of tension is governed by its radial position in strength measurement due to high effectiveness of the
the yarn. The transverse force due to tension multiple number of weft yarns and, hence will be
development on the fibre acts normal to fibre axis and responsible for further reduction in yarn failure
develops frictional resistance to fibre slippage. If the zone length.
tension on gripped fibre reaches the fibre breaking
load and fibre enables to resist the stress furthermore 4 Conclusion
then it breaks. If a balance between tension and Yarn structure plays a significant role in defining
frictional forces along the fibre length cannot be the fabric thickness and fabric tensile properties.
effectively built up and the fibre does not resist the Apart from the yarn strength, the fabric strength also
tension, then the fibre starts to slip. It is an established depends on fibre packing characteristics in yarn and
fact 13,14 that the yarn failure behaviour of slip/break radial packing density directly affects the fabric
or mixed mode of two is dependent on type of fibre, geometry. The yarn diameter which is indirectly
yarn structure and testing conditions. But in the case influenced by the twist multiple has a direct effect on
of yarn break during single yarn strength the yarn pull out force and higher yarn diameter
measurement only yarn structure plays the dominant (obtained at lower TM) shows higher pull out force.
role to decide the yarn failure zone length because Fabric strength is also influenced by the degree of
other two factors are kept constant. binding of cross-yarns, which increases inter-fibre
But the conditions of tensile failure of yarn are frictional forces and depends on the yarn diameter and
quite different for single yarn break inside the fabric radial packing density, i.e. the yarn structure.
and yarn breaks during fabric strength measurement Yarn structure along with the yarn breaking
in comparison with the yarn break during single yarn conditions plays a dominant role in deciding the yarn
strength measurement, hence the yarn failure zone failure zone length rather than the yarn strength.
length will be governed accordingly. The load- A higher yarn packing density, due to higher draft,
172 INDIAN J. FIBRE. TEXT., RES., JUNE 2018

spindle speed and twist multiplier, is responsible for 8 Ishtiaque S M, Das A & Kundu A K, J Text Inst, 105
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9 Ishtiaque S M, Das A & Kundu A K, J Text Inst, 105 (2014)
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10 Ishtiaque S M, Das A & Vishnoi P, J Text Inst,
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