Not All Natural Fibers Are Created Equal: The Truth About Viscose Rayon

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Not All Natural Fibers Are

Created Equal: The Truth


about Viscose Rayon
As the earth matures and we come to grips with humanity’s role
in the degradation of the environment in multiple forms of
pollution and the overarching condition of climate change,
it’s important that we make the right choices as individuals
and companies with regard to the products we use and the
effects they have on the environment.

Product choices we make for sustainability should include the


clothes we wear, which are predominantly made from cotton, an
all-natural product; polyester, a man-made fiber, and viscose,
the subject of this article. We can safely assume that natural
products have a lower negative impact on the environment than
man-made products, but they are certainly not equal;
furthermore, not all products perceived to be natural actually
are.

Let’s take a look at viscose, and why it shouldn’t be


considered a fabric choice that’s also pro-environment.

Trees, Not Plants—Think about That


Cotton farmers produce new plants that yield fresh cotton
acreage every single year—cotton cellulose takes five to six
months to produce. While any type of farming activity taxes
the environment, cotton plants are much better for the planet
than their viscose rayon counterparts. Here’s why: viscose
rayon comes from trees.

While trees can certainly be replanted, it takes years (pine


trees, for example, have a harvest age range of 25-35 years)
to replace those harvested for the wood pulp that becomes
viscose rayon fiber. Harvesting trees destroys animal
habitats, changes ecosystems, and depletes oxygen levels.
Nearly 30 percent of the rayon and viscose used by the fashion
industry comes from ancient and endangered forests that will
take decades to replenish or even fail to regenerate in some
cases.

Large-scale deforestation from the demand for viscose is


chilling. Indonesia alone has lost 15 million hectares of
forest in the last dozen years, while forest ecosystems in the
USA, Canada, Brazil, and South Africa are under severe threat
as well. The Amazon rainforest, largely situated in Brazil,
has lost nearly 300,000 square miles of trees over the last
fifty years, and viscose production has been a large part of
the problem.

A Dirty Process
The process of transforming wood pulp into fiber doesn’t hold
up well to scrutiny with regard to sustainability. In fact,
it’s a dirty process.

In the production chain, trees go through a chemical process


to remove everything but the cellulose that will become
viscose fiber.

The wood pulp is treated with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)


and carbon disulphide, which is then filtered and spun into
filaments (viscose). This process releases toxic chemicals
into the air and waterways surrounding viscose plants are also
at risk for pollution.

Carbon disulphide has been linked to higher levels of coronary


heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions and cancer in
textile workers and also in those who live near viscose
factories. In this chemically-intensive, polluting process of
converting pulp to fiber, only 30 percent of the tree is
usable. often wastes 70 percent of the tree, according to
fashion industry watchdog Canopy.

What’s the Answer?


While viscose rayon as a product may have natural origins,
it’s pretty safe to say that it’s not environmentally-
friendly, nor is it a particularly safe product for both
environmental and health reasons. The chemically-intensive,
highly-polluting processes necessary to take wood pulp from
trees, extract cellulose, and create workable fiber are simply
too dirty to be considered good for either people or the
planet.

While viscose rayon certainly represents the one of the least


expensive paths for creating a natural fiber for apparel, many
manufacturers are concluding that the true price is too costly
to the environment and human health. Thankfully, there are
alternatives.

Many manufacturers have looked to the many varieties of cotton


to achieve their goals for design and comfort, finding a
product whose farming and manufacturing communities are
steadfastly devoted to ever-improving standards of
environmental sustainability, including life cycle assessments
that look at cotton’s sustainability from a cradle-to-grave
perspective.

But there are many who still want to achieve the same goals
for fabrics, in terms of color, texture, and other aspects
that can only achieved with rayon. These manufacturers are
eschewing hardwood wood pulp, from sources like pine, for more
sustainable options like bamboo. Another alternative is
Lyocell, a type of viscose rayon that uses a non-toxic,
organic compound instead of caustic soda, which is easier to
filter and used in a closed loop production process.

Conclusion
Today’s consumers are smart and understand the difference
between a truly natural fiber versus one that has been
chemically transformed from a natural raw material into a
cellulosic fiber. When people know the truth, they make better
decisions. As more people discover the truth about viscose
rayon, they will see why many are making the switch to cotton
– a real natural alternative.

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