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Guide to Cosmetic Formulation Basics

1. Hair Conditioner
2. Body Wash Get this Free
3. Lipstick Formulation
4. Hair Gel Guide Now!
5. Skin Lotion
6. Sunless Tanning
7. Antiperspirant
8. Nail Polish
9. Foundation
10.Toothpaste

On formulating cosmetics
Name:
To be a cosmetic chemist you have to learn to make cosmetic formulas. For most people starting out in the
cosmetic industry, you’ll specialize in a speci c type of formulation such as skin,
hair, or color cosmetics.
Email:

However, to be a complete cosmetic chemist you should have an understanding of

how ALL cosmetics work and are formulated. This doesn’t mean you have to go
make them (although that is encourage) but it does mean that if someone asks
you how a product works, you’ll be able to answer them.
We respect your email privacy
In this series we are going to cover as many types of cosmetics and personal care products we can imagine.
We’ll discuss what a product is designed to do, how it works, and some of the ingredients that make it work.
Before we get into the speci c formulas, it makes sense to give an overview of all the types of products that are
considered cosmetics.

While there are thousands of personal care or cosmetic products on the market, they can all be sorted into 5
distinct categories.

Skin Care Products

These are products designed to improve the appearance and feel of skin. The skin care market makes up about
30% of all cosmetics sold which is the largest share of any category. Skin care products can be classi ed further
by how they work and what they do.

So, there are products that are left behind on the skin. These include moisturizing products designed to improve
the look and feel of skin. There are also anti-aging products that promise to get rid of the signs of aging skin (for
example wrinkles, age spots, dry skin, etc). There are sunless tanners which change the color of skin. And there
are over-the-counter drug products that protect from the sun, treat skin medical conditions, treat acne, and
actually reduce wrinkles.
Rheology Testing,
The other types of skin products are those designed to remove things from skin. This include cleansers like body
Training and Advice
washes, hand soaps, facial washes, toners, bubble baths and more. It also includes scrubs, masks, and Application, pumping
and pouring, skin feel
exfoliation products. You could also add shaving creams and depilatories to this group since they are designed to and rub-out. Learn more
remove hair from the skin.

2. Body Wash
5. Skin Lotion
6. Sunless Tanning

Hair Care Products

The next category of cosmetic products is hair care. Products for the hair are the second most popular type of
cosmetic making up approximately 25% of worldwide sales. Like the skin care category, hair products can be
further grouped by how they work and what they do.

The most frequently purchased hair products are those designed to remove things from the hair. These are liquid
shampoos which clean hair, but there are also powdered and aerosol shampoos. They remove dirt, oil and other
things from hair. There are specialty shampoos which qualify as over-the-counter drugs and include anti-dandruff
shampoos, anti-lice products, and even hair restoration shampoos.

Hair conditioners are another type of product designed to be rinsed off, but they also leave material behind to
improve the look and feel of hair. There are standard every day rinse-off conditioners but there are also intensive
conditioners, protein packs, hot oil treatments, serums and a wide variety of other specialty products that are
supposed to improve the hair look and feel.

A third type of hair product are those meant to be left in the hair. These products can help change the feel of hair
but are primarily meant to help with the appearance and control of hair. The largest segment of these products
are styling products including hair sprays, mousses, styling gels, putties, pomades and more. There are also
leave-in conditioners which would fall into this sub-category. Of all the hair care product types, styling products
are the most diverse taking on a vast array of formulations.

A nal hair product category is reactive hair products. These are formulas that chemically change the structure of
hair thereby changing the way it looks. For straightening hair there are relaxer products. For making hair curly
there are perms. And for changing the color of hair there are permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary hair
colors.

4. Hair Gel
1. Hair Conditioner

Color Cosmetics

Speaking of colors, that brings us to our next cosmetic category, color cosmetics. For most people these are the
types of products that they think of when you say the word cosmetic. Color cosmetics or make up comprise
about 20% of the worldwide cosmetic market. This group includes products that remain on the skin and change
the color and appearance. It includes products for the face like foundations, lip sticks, lip gloss, blush, eye
shadow, eye liner, and mascara. You could also include products for the nails such as nail polish, gloss, and all
the other products related to nail care. Color cosmetics are the most regulated of all cosmetics because
governments around the world restrict the types of ingredients that can be used for colorants. It turns out that
some of the coloring ingredients that were used prior to the creation of the modern cosmetic industry were quite
poisonous.

3. Lipstick
8. Nail Polish
9. Foundation

Fragrances

Our next major category of cosmetics is fragrances. Fragrances and perfumes have been part of the cosmetic
industry since before the 1600’s. These types of products are meant to be put on to change natural body odor.
They make up about 10% of the cosmetic market. This category includes perfumes, colognes and body splashes.
And this group also includes body sprays which are aerosol versions of colognes.

Personal Care Products

And then there are general personal care products. This last category of cosmetic products makes up
approximately 15% of sales in the market (depending on what products you include). These include oral care
products like tooth paste, mouthwash and whitening products. It also includes deodorants and anti-perspirants
although I suppose you could make a case that these could be classi ed as either skin care products or
fragrance products. But for our purposes let’s just consider them a separate group.

So there you have it the 5 main categories of cosmetic products. They include skin care, hair care, makeup,
fragrances and personal care products.

OTC Drugs

One thing I should mention though is that throughout this show I’ve mentioned over-the-counter (OTC) drugs.
This is a special category of cosmetic-like products that is more tightly regulated at least in the US. You see
cosmetics are not allowed to treat a disease or otherwise interact with the skin metabolism. According to the law
they are only allowed to temporarily change the appearance of skin and hair. So any product that actually treats a
disease is actually a drug. In the US the FDA has created a list of such products and each of these has a
monograph which dictates the active ingredients, the levels, and the claims that can be made about the products.
These products are not technically cosmetics although they seem like they are. This includes things like
sunscreens, anti-dandruff products, anti-acne products, anti-perspirants, and anything else that might be
considered treating a disease.

10.Toothpaste
7. Antiperspirant

You can learn more details about creating cosmetics in our course: formulating cosmetics

87 comments
Gabriela Georgieva

[email protected]

 REPLY

Suganya

Hi perry,

I want to know, how to formulate a shampoo hair dye

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in our forum.

 REPLY

shubham

hey friend!
i want to make emuslion of turmeric oil and pongamia pinnata oil.
please suggest me any solubilizer.

thankyouu

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Have you tried Polysorbate 20?

 REPLY

Crystal Williams

Can someone point me in the direction of where the cost calculator spreadsheet is

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

You can nd it here. http://chemistscorner.com/wp-content/uploads/FormulaCosting.xls

 REPLY

Ezekiel

hi perry,
Is formulation of liquid soap for dish washing and laundry covered in the course?
Is there any course or forum on paint formulation you can suggest? need help.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

No, the course is for formulating cosmetics.

 REPLY

Amaka

Hi Perry can you plz write me the recipe for a whitening body scrub,thanks so much.

 REPLY

Chidimma

I used cetyl alcohol, but I did not get what I want. The up is tick why the down is waterry, why is it
so?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’m not sure what you mean but it’s probably due to the fact that you don’t have a proper
thickener in the formula.

 REPLY

Eric

Hello Perry. I really enjoy Your website.

I don’t see any formulation for face creams, gels, serums. Are these covered in Your course?
(Thinking about taking it, but my main interest is in face creams masks etc.)

Thanks

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Hello Eric – yes these are covered in our course.

 REPLY

Shalini

I just wanna know can fairness creams or any cream can be manufactured by cold process
method. if yes then please share the process.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in our forum. http://chemistscorner.com/forum

 REPLY

Naomi

I am a sophomore in high school, do you know of any cosmetic science opportunities for my age?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I don’t know of any. You could check out some soapmaking websites to get a sense of how
that is made. This isn’t exactly cosmetics but it’s close.

 REPLY

Gulshan

Sir good afternoon

Sir i want to know about water less facewash formulation and ingredients.
Delhi india

 REPLY

Kalukusu Raymond

I need to know the ingredients that give an ice cold effect / cooling effect to an aftershave lotion.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

That depends on the formula. Menthol will do that but usually it is just due to the evaporation
of alcohol.

 REPLY

Rebecca

I’m looking for ways to intern in a lab, as I am still an undergraduate. Do you know of resources? Or
programs I could apply to?
Thank you

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Check with your local SCC chapter. Also, see this post. http://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-
science-internship-programs/

 REPLY

Nebby

hi sir..can I use body wash as the basic formulation for body scrub..and I have to prepared two
condition of body scrub : oil-in-water and water-in-oil..can you explain the method?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Thavisack

This web page is really good thank you so much sir for best knnowledge for the beginer like
me.

 REPLY

Virginie

Hey there, is there any basic formulation for pigmented products such as eye-shadows, blushers
and such?

Thanks a bunch!

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

See our post on nding free sources for formulations.

http://chemistscorner.com/where-to- nd-free-cosmetic-formulas/

 REPLY

parisa

hi
could you please help me by guide formation for cream ?

 REPLY

Robert Fadil

We are looking for a company to reformulate an aerosol spray for ngernails.. We can furnish
original formula if needed. Product now being made in China.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your request in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

m asume

hi
please help me
please, say what is cleansing agent in make up remover lotion??
thank you
best regard

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

That depends. Typically, they are surfactants.

 REPLY

alyse

I need help in formulating a colorless liquid eyeliner.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your request in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Manish Gupta

Hi Sir,

Can you please help me with the shaving cream formula, i am a small manufacturer in India and i
am very much impressed by your reply’s given on the portal. After reading your comments i have
starting feeling that you the one who can make my dream come true which is making my own
shaving cream manufacturing unit. I will be highly obliged if you can provide me with the same.

Below mentioned is my email addres:

[email protected]

Thanks & Regards,

Manish Gupta

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Joy adderly

Looking for a chemist to help me with fomulaying my bath bombs for online sales. If someone can
point me in the right direction it would greatly appreciated! Or do I need to have it fomulated at all?
Thanks again. …..

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Check in our forum http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Ajay Patel

Witch type formulation you want ?

Plz. contact @ [email protected]

 REPLY

Regina

Does Mascara fall under hair care since it goes onto eye lashes? Are lashes Hair…lol? Or does it fall
under color cosmetics?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Mascara is typically considered color cosmetics.

 REPLY

Jackie

Is there a standard formulation for natural face mask, using the following ingredients, for instance:
activated charcoal + kaolin clay + rose powder + red rice?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I would suggest you post your question in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

samir

Hi perry . I want to know which perfume or chemicals suppress the odour of isopropyl alcohol in
preparation of hair sprays

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’m not sure. I would suggest you post your question in our forum.
http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

John

Can someone please help me resolve this problem. I used dehyquart A-CA, Nutrilan i, Ethanol,
Water, Polysorbate 60, Phenoxythanol to formulate a product. The problem is the colour of the
product keeps changing with time. The older batches always look deeper in colour. What can I do
to stabilize the colour and prevent it from changing with time? Thanks

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in the forum with more detail
http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

NS

Hello
Can I get the basic Hair color formulations?

 REPLY

Ashwin

hello
i want evaluation testing of shavings cream. plz. rply me on my e-mail id..

[email protected].
plz..rply me.

 REPLY

sakshi

I’ve recently completed my bachelors in biotechnology engineering and looking forward to a career
in cosmetic science. Can you help me out with universities that offer this course as well as
suggest any internships which could help in giving me a better idea about the eld?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

See our post on cosmetic science programs around the world.

 REPLY

Akshaya

Hi..any idea of cosmetic formulation course in India?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I do not know of one. You could go through our online course. It’s available anywhere in the
world. http://chemistscorner.com/members

 REPLY

kasthuri

Dear all

I am in the need of developing hydrogen peroxide developer for hair color..i was used carpobol
2020 as a base and i got a viscous liquid developer..but after a month it get viscous gel and after 6
months again its viscous fully down and looks like liquid..And my package bottles and packets get
swell. But there is no major change in hydrogen peroxide value.but grey hair doesn’t change into
black as previous..bobbles formation is so high.Need good stabilizer and alternate base for
formulation..

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I’d suggest you post your question in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Dr.Rayeji

Hi, how can i make AHA15% gel? What materials can i use?
And how can i make azelaic acid20% cream?

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I would suggest you post your question in our forum.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Chirag gupta

Hi Perry,
I have been formulating Handwash with SLES, CAPB, glycerin,cocamide DEA,EGMS. But i am
unable to prepare it as that of Commercial one. Please Guide me . Thanks

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

I would need more information. Please post your discussion in our forum.
http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk

 REPLY

Synarie

What is the formula for eyeshadow please.

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

See our post on color cosmetics.

 REPLY

Peto Clement Kinsaka

This is very informative and I am very close to producing my product because the information I
receive from your website. Thank you for good heart.

 REPLY

miller

my cream developer (hydrogen peroxide) 40 vol is unstable need help with formulation

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

post your question in our cosmetic science forum

(http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk)

 REPLY

mrs vora

please may I ask you for simple shaving cream base formula

 REPLY

DICKA CHRISTIAN

I am a chemical Engineer living in cameroon.I will wish to work in team that will enable to come out
with new cosmetic formulation.

 REPLY

Mian Ghulam Mustafa

Hello Mr Dicka
i am mustafa from pakistan iwant to start the business of cosmetics
kindly send me formulation of body lotions whitening cream cold creams
face wash hair removing cream thanks

 REPLY

Sabin

Great job

 REPLY

TC

Can you include formulations for shaving products for razor bumps and razor burn?

 REPLY

Pingback:Cosmetic Formulation Basics – Shaving Cream

Pingback:Cosmetic Formulation Basics – Toothpaste

Pingback:Cosmetic formulation basics – Foundation

Rish

Hello!
could you please include formulation information for eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows and blush?
Thanks!

 REPLY

shiv bahadur yadav

Hi Perry and every other members of the forum.

Plz, can any one help me wit a starting formular for hair setting lotion. Thanks

 REPLY

Perry Romanowski

Hello – post this in our cosmetic science forum

 REPLY

shiv bahadur yadav

hi rish
shiv bahadur yadav
(senior consultant f&D
R&D ) COLOR COSMETIC
for
eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows and
MOb.09675171134

 REPLY

Dandollars2

Hi Perry and every other members of the forum.

Plz, can any one help me wit a starting formular for hair setting lotion. Thanks

 REPLY

Pingback:Cosmetic formulation basics – Nail Polish

siobhan

Hi there,

I have been reading this website for a few months now and nd it really really useful, its a great
place for info, I have now taken the leap to try and make a formulation for a body butter to get
certi ed by a chemist but desperatly need some help with this could anyone help it would be
greatly appreciated.

 REPLY

Perry

I would suggest you post the question in our Forum.

 REPLY

Reap company

Please if you can add botanical formulae too.

 REPLY

Estelle

I would appreciate it if someone can assist me with formulating body butter and body scrub?

 REPLY

Desiree Mattox

Hi Estelle,

I would be happy to assist you with your body butter and body scrub products. If you are still
interested feel free to submit an inquiry through my website.

 REPLY

Pingback:Cosmetic Formulating Basics – Lipstick

Pingback:Cosmetic Formulating Basics – Body Wash

Pingback:Cosmetic Formulation Basics – Hair Conditioners

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