HANDBOOK OF

Cosmetic Science
and Technology
FOURTH EDITION

Edited by
Andre O. Barel, Ph.D., M.S.
Emeritus Full Professor of General Chemistry, General and
Human Biochemistry, Oral
Biochemistry and Cosmetic Sciences
Vrije Universiteit Brussel
Brussels, Belgium
Marc Paye, Ph.D.
European Qualified Person for Pharmacovigilance and Safety Officer
Colgate-Palmolive R&D
Liege, Belgium
Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
Professor of Dermatology
University of California School of Medicine
San Francisco, USA

zO\ CRC Press

ICJ*' / Taylor & Francis
Group
Boca Raton London New York

CRC Press is an
imprint of the
Taylor k Francis Croup, an informa business
Contents
Contributors xi

SECTION! Skin Types

Chapter 1 Introduction 1

Marc Paye, Andre O. Barel, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 2 Biophysical Characteristics of the Skin: Relation to Race, Sex, Age, and Site 3

Virginie Couturaud

Chapter 3 Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties: The Objective Data 19

Vishal Saggar, Sarika Banker, Naissan O. Wesley, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 4 Sensitive Skin: Sensory, Clinical, and Physiological Factors 59

Miranda A. Farage, Alexandra Katsarou, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 5 Neurophysiology of Self-Perceived Sensitive-Skin Subjects by Functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging 71

Bernard Querleux and Olivier de Lacharriere

Chapter 6 Tests for Sensitive Skin 77

Enzo Berardesca

SECTION II Skin Hydration

Chapter 7 Mechanisms of Skin Hydration 81

L. Kilpatrick-Liverman, J. Mattai, R. Tinsley, and Q. Wu

Chapter 8 Hydrating Substances 93

Marie Loden

Chapter 9 Skin Care Products 103

Howard Epstein

Chapter 10 Confocal Raman Spectroscopy for In Vivo Skin Hydration Measurement 115

Andre van der Pol and Peter J. Caspers

SECTION III Skin Barrier

Chapter 11 Evaluation of the Barrier Function of Skin Using Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): A Critical Overview 131

Bob Imhoj and Gill McFeat

vi Contents

Chapter 12 Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers: An Overview 141

Michael Rule, Sailesh Konda, Haw-Yueh Thong, Hongbo Zhai, and Howard I. Maibach

13 Human Skin Buffering Capacity: An Updated Overview 157

Chapter
Jacquelyn Levin and Howard I. Maibach

14 Skin and Skin Flora 163

Chapter pH
Shamim A. Ansari

Chapter 15 The "Magic" Effects of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Vehicles 175

Katharina Bohnenblust Woertz and Christian Surber

Chapter 16 Dissolution of Materials in Contact with Skin Film Liquids 189

Aleksandr B. Stefaniak

Chapter 17 Skin Care Occlusive Ingredients: Predicting Occlusion's Effects Using Partition Coefficients 225

Farhaan Hafeez and Howard I. Maibach

SECTION IV Skin Aging and Sun and Antiaging Care Products

Chapter 18 Skin Ageprint: The Causative Factors 235

Gerald E. Pierard, Trinh Hermanns-Le, Philippe Delvenne, and Claudine Pierard-Franchimont

Chapter 19 New Perspectives in the Control of the Skin Aging Process 245

Mdrcio Lorencini, Israel H. S. Feferman, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 20 Skin Aging: Microrelief and Wrinkle Measurements 251

Urte Koop, Thorsten Bretschneider, Sven Clemann, and Soren Jaspers

Chapter 21 Smoking and Skin Aging 263

Maral Rahvar

Chapter 22 Antioxidants 269

Claude Saliou, Stefan U. Weber, John K. Lodge, and Lester Packer

Chapter 23 UV Filters 279

Stanley B. Levy

Chapter 24 Sun Protection and Sunscreens 287

Bernard Gabard

Chapter 25 Sun and After-Sun Products 293

Helena Karajiannis and Bernard Gabard

Contents vii

Chapter 26 Living Skin Equivalents and Skin Organ Culture: Preclinical Models for Cosmetic Efficacy Testing 301

Alain Mavon, Carine Jacques-Jamin, and Lucie Duracher

SECTION V Skin Perception

Chapter 27 Sensory Effects and Irritation: A Strong Relationship 313

Miranda A. Farage

Chapter 28 Silicones: A Key Ingredient in Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 321

Isabelle Van Reeth

Chapter 29 Tribology of Skin 331

Rasiq Zackria and Raja K. Sivamani

Chapter 30 Skin Wettability and Friction 337

Ahmed Elkhyat, F. Fanian, S. Mac-Mary, A. Guichard, T. Lihoreau, A. Jeudy, and P. Humbert

SECTION VI Skin Tolerance

Chapter 31 Principles and Mechanisms of Skin Irritation 345

Sibylle Schliemann, Maria Breternitz, and Peter Eisner

Chapter 32 Mechanism of Skin Irritation by Surfactants and Anti-Irritants for Surfactant-Based Products 353

C.T. Jackson, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 33 In Vivo Irritation 367

Saqib J. Bashir, Michal W.S. Ong, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 34 Noninvasive Clinical Assessment of Skin Inflammation 375

Michael K. Robinson and Kevin J. Mills

Chapter 35 Ethnicity as a Possible Endogenous Factor in Irritant Contact Dermatitis: Comparing the Irritant

Response among Caucasians, Blacks, and Asians 385

Andrew Rong, Bobeck S. Modjtahedi, Nader Movassagh, Sara P. Modjtahedi, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 36 Allergy and Hypoallergenic Products 393

An E. Goossens

Chapter 37 Anti-Itch Testing (Antipruritics) 401

Heidi P. Chan, Hongbo Zhai, and Howard I. Maibach

viii Contents

SECTION VII Skin Color

of Skin Color in Relation to Ethnicity, Gender, Age, Site, and Environmental Factors:
Chapter 38 Determination
An Overview 411

G. Cazorla

Chapter 39 Skin Care Products: Artificial Tanning 419

Stanley B. Levy

Chapter 40 Skin Whitening Agents 423

Michal W.S. Ong and Howard I. Maibach

41 Decorative Products 439

Chapter
Rodolphe Korichi and Jean-Francois Tranchant

Chapter 42 Removal Methods and Evaluation of Removal of Makeup Products 453

Nattaya Lourith and Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul

Chapter 43 Skin Radiance Measurement 459

A. Jeudy, S. Mac-Mary, J.M. Sainthillier, T. Lihoreau, F. Fanian, and P. Humbert

SECTION VIII Cosmetics with Specific Targets

Chapter 44 Anticellulite Products and Treatments 467

Andre O. BareI and Peter Clary s

Chapter 45 Skin Healing: Integrating Scientific Advances into Cosmetic Practice 477

Ethel Tur and Laura L. Bolton

Chapter 46 Baby Care Products 487

Bart Desmedt, Susanna Brink, RalfAdam, Vera Rogiers, and Kristien De Paepe

Chapter 47 Cosmetics for the Elderly 501

H. Reuter, T. Blatt, G.-M. Muhr, and F. Stab

Chapter 48 Antiperspirants 505

Jbrg Schreiber

Chapter 49 Deodorants 513

Jorg Schreiber

Chapter 50 Use of Cosmetics in Sports 519

Ron Clijsen, Andre O. Barel, and Peter Clarys

Chapter 51 Cosmetotextiles: A New Aspect of Technical Textiles 525

Mukesh Kumar Singh

Contents ix

Chapter 52 Measuring Hair 539

R. Randall Wickett and Janusz Jachowicz

Chapter 53 Hair Conditioners 561

Cheryl Kozubal, Arnoldo Lopez Baca, and Elisa Navarro

Chapter 54 Oral Cosmetics: A General Overview 573

Nathalie Demeester, D. Vanden Berghe, and Mario R. Calomme

Chapter 55 Use of Food Supplements as Nutricosmetics in Health and Fitness: A Review 583

Jan Taeymans, Peter Clarys, and Andre O. Barel

Chapter 56 Normal Nail and Use of Nail Cosmetics and Treatments 597

Josette Andre, Christel Scheers, and Robert Baran

Chapter 57 Impact of Formula Structure to Skin Delivery 609

P. Wen, J. Paturi, and Y. Sun

Chapter 58 Natural Ingredients and Sustainability 619

Claude Saliou

Chapter 59 Zinc Pyrithione: Critical Pharmacological Factors in Achieving Efficacious Dandruff Treatment
Products 627

James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr.

SECTION IX Regulations

Chapter 60 Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetics: A Regulatory Overview 633

Raja K. Sivamani and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 61 New European Legislation Concerning Efficacy Claims of Cosmetic Products: An Overview of Different

Methods of Evaluation 637

Peter Clarys and Andre O. Barel

Chapter 62 Validated Alternative Methods Available for Human Health Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Products and
Their Ingredients in the European Union 647

Vera Rogiers

Chapter 63 Cosmetovigilance in the European Union 665

Marc Paye, E. Roni, P. Prasad, and M.G. Best

Chapter 64 Trends in Cosmetic Regulations in the United States 677

F. Anthony Simion

Index 683