Ohio Street T’s T-Bucket Chassis Plans

Introduction
To my knowledge, the T-Bucket plans created by Ohio Street T’s
first came on the hot rod scene back in 1976 through a few small
space ads in Rod Action magazine. This was about one year after
the California Custom Roadsters (CCR) T-Bucket Chassis Plans
were introduced.

These plans are a great example of how early plans were produced
using just a regular typewriter and the old Letraset dry-
transfer lettering sheets.
Intended to be a budget T-Bucket plan set, compared to CCR’s
more detailed plans, the Ohio Street T’s plans were filled with
misspellings and typos. But, when you consider they were done by
a hot rod T-Bucket builder rather than a writer the overall
result wasn’t too bad.
We’ve spent considerable time trying to clean them up without
changing the original format. However, we weren’t able to
correct everything. So, you’ll see the occasional “than”,
instead of “then” and other little misspellings like “togather”,
“compleatly” and “bisket”. Just remember, it was the work of a
builder, not a writer.
The Akron-based Ohio Street T’s ceased to exist many years ago
and the plans were published without a copyright notice and are
now public domain. We’re making them available to T-Bucket
builders today because they contain some plan information you
just won’t find anywhere else.
For example:

 A clever way to align spring perch side and top plates for
tack welding
 Using lengths of inexpensive all-thread to align front and
rear crossmembers for tack welding
 How to build a quarter-elliptic leaf spring rear
suspension, using vintage Ford passenger car leaf springs
(which are still available from aftermarket replacement
suppliers)
 Clever trick for aligning front axle batwings before tack
welding
 A nifty fixture for making nice radius rod bends
And you’ll probably find more you like, too.
As a tiny bonus, we’ve attached a couple of pages outlining our
thoughts on the value of being able to compare and contrast
various T-Bucket plans in order to pull together different
elements to build your own truly unique T-Bucket.

Thanks and enjoy.

?FA��A��A�0 ORIO STREET T's
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� C'otnplete Chassis Plan Set.
� Materials needed to build OHIO STREET T's chassis. Econoline front axle,
(di .
(\l '60 to '63. Rear springs from '58 to '63 Ford or T-Bird. Front spring1-3/4"
_j)
"'�inches wide. Two l-3/4" spring shackles and hangers. Two
(di
�
2"spring·shackles
())and hangers
hankers. One set biscuit
bisket motor mounts. Reversed Corvair steering box.
�
� One set V.W.rear shocks. Four uniballs* 1/2" right hand thread
theard. Two uniballs�

� 1/2" left hand thread. Two uniballs 5/8" right hand thread. Four clevises �
� 3/8" slot 5/8" thread male. Four clevises 3/8" slot 1/2" thread male. 24'ft�
J)

(\l 1-1/2" X 3" X.125-wall rectangular steel tubing. 2'ft.2" O.D.X.188-wall

�
� round tubing. 24'ft.3/4" O.D.X 188-wall round seamless tubing. 9'ft.7/8" �
.

(\l O.D.X.188-wall round seamless tubing. 3'ft.3/B" X 4" X 4"angle iron. 4'ft. >S

� 1/4" X 6"plate cold roll. 5'ft.3/8" X 6"plate cold roll. 6"in.l-l/4" X �

(\l 1-1/4" X.250-wall square tubing. �
� Take your time to read and understand the plans before you begin. The �
� most important part of any Roadster is the chassis! Particular care should �
� be taken when aligning and welding the frame. �
� �
�
� �
�
� *Heim joints �

� - �
,��������� • ';f.fit,���fk,�����������
 ---------- -- ------

When you start to layout the frame

\ rails a good mechanics square and bevel pro-

\ I
\ tractor should be used. If none available I
\ I
use full size pattern to mark 60° notch for

rear kick. Use full size pattern on page-3

INSIDE to lay out front of rails. Seam on rails INSIDE

OF OF
LEFT should be on inside or bottom of rails. Check RIGHT
,_.
RAIL 0
RAIL
layout work for accuracy before cutting.
t
-...J
Sawing is the best and most accurate way of �
°'

cutting. Torch cutting can be done but invol - =

ves a lot of grinding. Hole saw should be used

for frorit crossmember.

After notch is cut out bend to close notch

clamp down on flat surface as shown on page-5

-- ,
'
'
' Set proper degree using pattern on page-4
'
'

/
,,,
) protractor. Drill t" hole completly

through ra s at front and rear crossmember,

to be used for holding frame during welding,

lustrated on page-8

-- - - �::::::7.:':':-:":'�����-....,...,.,,.,.._­

-
--i ('
......
.....
'
'
.......
'

Do not

cut rail

completely in

1 /4 Hole 3 /4 Fr
nd-Q.f -Ha 3:-1 - -
o�t�f:
- - - - - -
- - -�--:::""""
() ....-+-----------'

I
 1� /4"
together

before

CQ.
V1
I

I .

I
2"hole saw should be used
1
to cut hole for front cross
1 member. If no saw is a vailablel
1 cut wi � h torch and grind for
I
good fit. Cut front of rails \
1
using full size pattern. Do

1not close ends of rails untill

I frame is comp letely welded.
 I
..____ 32 II

'
I
I '/
1-~

I
I

I
I
......
I
~ I .ll-11
I (---- 8 16 )
I
I
I
I
I Use this full size
/ pattern to check rails
I
: for proper kick.Make
I
\,0 sure upper and lower
1/
rail are parallel.
I
I 1/4" hole at end of
rails are to be used
to bolt frame together
togather
when- aligning and
welding.

3"

c
v

4
-- --------~---~
~ 7.i _ _ _ __...lW ~r..e._ra.il_~_..arJLL>a.I:.all.e.l _ - - - ir - · - - - - - - - - .
I
I Rails must be welded on a perfectly
flat surface. A table made of l"X4'X$'
0

I
6" plywood works well and can be used when 6"
welding frame together
togather.

Right hand rail

\
Left hand rail Tack weld

Tack weld rails together

togather and check to see
that kick angles match full size pattern. Check
to see that both rails match exactly.Then complete
complet
/'
welding.

I 22-3/4~"------

Front Cross Member FULL SIZE

2"0.D.x.1aawall tubing
tubeing
I
2 5"- --·· ·---)j

\~ 2 8"
Rear Cross Member FULL SIZE
1-1/2" X 3" tubing
Tubeing

s
 FRONT PERCH PARTS
Use 1/4" plate to make these
parts. Welding procedure on
page-7.Band saw is best way of
cutting.Torch cutting will
work but makes a lot more

front crossmem-
cu t with hole

~ 2-3/4" ~ on separate sheet ::::.·::.·.:::.·::.·::::::.:.·.;::.·:::::::.·:;:::..

~ ~ v~ e;~~ rp~ l =~s: 0
@WJ.%t.~i}.{J.Jl§£t.1\
...... I '"i:;:\"""""·

~ML----2-3/4"·---
~£r&91Jlt
 Top
View

Slide perch side plates on piece of 2"X6"

pipe. Place a 1 /2"X4"pipe between side ,
2 "Pipe 4 ,1.on
_i
plates and bolt together
togather.Ends of pipe
must be ground off square.Slide top plate in place
against cross rail.Top plate must be even with top
edge of side plates.Tack Weld as showed above.Slide
2"pipe out of perch and weld completely top and bot­
tom.Remove 1 /4"bolt and � ipe spacer.Grind welds on
top of perch off smooth.

Be sure front perch is

on cross member when you
assemble the frame. Do NOT
vreld perch to cross member.
\ Pla ce fra me ra ils a nd cross
\
members together a s shown below.

Bolt fra me together with 1/4" all

thread.

\
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\
\
\
\ \
\ \
\ \
\
I 1--- -·.
I I I
When you 11 I
weld the frame I I
I
together weld _\I
1 I �-l I
front cross mem­ \ 1 I .._. 1 I
ber on inside arid \ 1 I I
==�
I

outside of side
rails.
--- - ___ "{_!
\
:I
\ I
\_I
\
\
7
 I
i- --
ck, -
1---
1
I
i---
1-
1---

,1

,_
,-~-

J_ . . .
' '\
\
I
I
I

I
l
I
L __
 2 5-1/ftL--------------~

PATTERN

END When installing center

VIEW cross member top of cross
3" member is level with top
}
of irame.Clamp 1/4"X 3"
6"steel plate top of
I
member leave 2" ex-
.I tend over ends of
_ ____,,,. l_ cross member.Set
f~ 1-1/2" ~ in place and
clamp to
s

1 1
II \\lll\\\ll\\!1!!!11 !!!11!!!!! l!!!ll!!!lll!\ \!1\\!!l\111!!!!!!I ll!l!l!l
Weld trans. mounts
to· center crossi:mem-
ber before welding in
frame. Instructions on
pages-10

9
 Make sure angle mounts are
square with edge of cross-
member. Weld front ~ear and
edges of mounts.

--1 __l ___

2-1/2-1''-
i--~~~~~~~~~~~--- -::r-- r 3"
--~~..,.....,.,,..,...,..,.,..,...,..,..,..,.,..,.':":-':":":':":"':~:-:":':"":-:-:7:-:-:-:-7:'7':-:-:::-:-:-:-:-:-1

FULL SIZE
END
VIEW

Bolt trans. mount side plates to

cross member. Place bottom plate
in notches tack in place than
weld inside and outside of side
plates to bottom plate.

10
Cut out withsaw or torch. ·D·rill~. 4-"'." 1/2" holes in bottom
plate.Use Rattail file to make 1/2" X l"in.slot.
Welding Instuctions on page-10
•...
 r---1-3/4•·--1
C:ut 3/S"X4"X4" ....

5"

Full Size
Pattern C.
on end plate B
and top gusset
A as explained
below.

~j{To£ View _!'late B1:{ i'/4•~'{!@'$1#.f@'~

11

jlr l- 7 .8" --1-1. /.......,."'-"!Ill

TACK WELD

Clamp Perch C on flat surface, back side

down. Stand B plate on front edge of C as 4 ~·.
shown on Full Size Pattern, tack weld.
Place gusset A on top rear edge of C, tack
weld as shown, then weld completely.
Mounting instructions on Page 14.

1Z
l< 4" I< -1-3/4" ~1 Cut J/8"X4"X4"

;~!~em~: ~:g •
1
:·11::11:.1•::1:•:·:\:,:1:·:_:.:··:1:11:1:-:·:1:.:\1:1:.\·\l.ll: t
:::::::·:Fuii .. SIZE··:;::t::::::::::: square. Lay full
::::::::. .::=:r:=:::::::::.
:;:;:;::::.PATTERN .;:;:;:;.-:;:;:;:;:;:: ize pattern C
of

5"

................................................·.·.··l·.-.·.-.·.-.:aplained below.

•ttv·ntntntnttttn•ntttn•nttntnttn•nttr _
~~gf~_y~e! .!'!~~~B_/_124:(,fij'~ -~
1
li \1 l il il i\l !il i\l [ l i l! \!111\i\lllL~-----
?ceB-1' •
~1-1/8·~< 1-7/8" >I ?c3-}_l-
~1'8J(\6

Perch C on flat surrace, back side

down. Stand B plate on front edge of C as
shown on Full Size Pattern, ~ack weld.
Place gusset A on top rear edge of C, tack
weld as shown, then weld completely.
:~::}}~:}~{:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:}{·:~:~~ND .. View...OK __ G__{ M~~ing instructions on Page 14
·.· ·.·.~.:-·.·.·.·.·.~-~-~·············~····· .·.·.··¥·········~-·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.:.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.·.· - A>
 - ----------, r- -- -"'!"'--1

0 0 0 0
0 t:I
0 0 0 0
~....__ _ __ _ , , , _ 1 - - - - - - 1 -

!\
Set frame on flat When installing
center cross mBmber
surface. Place top edge of cross
spring mount on member goes flush
with top edge of
table with open end frame rails. Can be
to rear of frame as done as explained
on Page 9 or by
shown on Page 12 & 13 turning frame upside
Fig. 2. Measure from down on table with
front rails flat on
back side of front 65!" 62" table. Put cross
cross member to member top edge down
flat on table.
front edge of mount Measure from back
(65 !"). Clamp to edge of front cross
member to front edge
side of frame rail, of center cross mem-
tack weld, check, ber 62". Tack weld,
check, then weld all
then weld all the the way around.
way around.
I
I Iv
I
__ J I
I I

I I
I 1-----------1
l\. .. _.,..1 I''·--~
I -- _J I
L_ __ ,...._ - - - - - - - - - - _- -'- I

I ', J
'---41 1···--'1
I t I
I\ } l\ .. _.'I
I'-..- I I
,_ -•
L_J C.:J
Left & Right mou7it ;-eeded .-A;;-gi; ~Top -;dge offrame-;a.il =-R~ar~ff;;:m-;
on bottom edge of mount deter- .~ ,
r>
mines Lor R side. After top of J~
4
.. _ I
mounts. are cut' lay pat tern on T}Jff{ffff}Jffffff(/f(J:::;:::}:/V=:~:::}/}}~f:f);:;:::;:;:;:::=;:;:;:;:;:;:;::::::::::::::::·:·:·:·:·:·:·:~r
back side of mount. Pattern shown I r·-·.·.·.·:·:·:·:·:·:·:=:f~~*1:·:·m.~m::l,::·::f.I:(;}:±:e:-:·:·:f~:r.:·:=M:i~t/==·:·:=::;:;:;:;:;:;:·:
l
makes
over, other mount making
right mount. 2 .l..n·
4
2"

Bottom edge or rai

I ---·------- ..·-----------..!..--'--..,---!
.. ,. ....·-·-- ---- . -----~~~m f~:~~ ~~d! 1 ~i ~~~;~c~;o~~a~~~~er
~ j to center of hole in motor mount.
TACK WELD. . Clamp mount to rail. Bottom edge fla
~ ~ on table, tack weld, recheck measure
d·· men ts, weld all the way around.

-------"""-C>,.
Top Cut two pieces of 4" X 4"
angle iron 4" long. Use full
size pattern to layout top
/
·h-,......,.,..,..,....,..,....,..,..,.,..,.,..,..,...,~~:"'!"':"'!"~"!":":"l~~~:"'."'.":"="."l
side of mounts. Cut and drill
End View hole.
~-,----

Of
Frame Rail

Mount flush with bottom

edge of frame.
 FULL SIZE
PATTERN

hole in A than use file to

make 3/4" long slot. Use
FULL SIZE

Use full size pattern or stock

Chevy mount to mark bolt holes
Drill 7/16"

Tack weld as shown below

Make B-90° degrees with C
and A, then weld completly Chevy side mounts to be
around. used with early Ford type
Bisket mounts.

TACK WELD

16
--------------
 ff

�--1�-->I
Make 2 radius Pattern shown ma�es le:{ {\\\\ @\

� :: !�!� \ �: �� �: �::: :�
rod hangers hanger. Use bac k side :::::::::f:::::::::::
..

:.::{:\j \ \i l\ l \l 1 \1 11\ l\1 \l ;

r t mak

e g e

8-3/4" long Us '/ Cut top edge of ..:::::::::·:·:·:·:·:·:·:·:::::::::::::J::::::::::::

full size patt hanger

to lay out sha wide.

and marking ho s
End View Of
cut out mount Left Frame '/
Rail From /
and drill hole
;: Rear Of
front holes ar I Frame

1/2" Rear hole dl',.,.�,...,....,,..,..,._.,._.j

are 5/8" Cut

top edge of
two
hanger 1-1/2"
wide

o
J§;=:=:
1
•

:::::::::::::: tub mg 7/ $" long Bolt ::::::::::::::::.:·:;::::::::::::::::::::::::

PATTERN
• :::::::::::.:·:::::

mmtr tube in rear hole n ttff\tffffff 3/8" ?ft\tttr��r

f
:::::�
-::- :::::�
:::::.,.
:::::..,.
:..,..,:::.,.
:.,. : : :"'..,..:)i:ff � hanger with 5/8" NF �t�f}�ff��fffff ANGLE {}}tt�fi�f

.L

r-'=:::::...-...\
i lilJ.1::1�:r1: : :
::::::::::::::· to pi eces
Cut two
�=�=�=�=�=�=�
:;:;:::;:;:;: ID. D X
• 1/2 " I D
• •

fff� long. Bolt tube in front

�I{ml on hanger with 1/2"

.............. [@[ Weld all the way

i i[fill!! \i :i\liji ·j_Z·

�

. . Lay frame upside do.wn :

·· :;�\�\itf\ff��

�:o� ::; : :1j!Y �� � �: : ;�::::�

_ : :·: _
_ _ :·:·:·:

,""--
, j" �;}}} on work bench .Measure from ··:::;::::::: ::::::::::
··:: : : : : : : :
: : ; ::
fa: : ::
::::::::::::: //
·:·:·:·:·:·:· 8 c
n 0 W d r

rame rai •

..j)
 Cut two spring & radius rod brackets from
. .·. ·.:: :::::::::::·:·:·..

tf)
..::)���f:}�:�tf?�t::::::. .. 3/8" plate-cold roll steel. Drill holes, clamp in vise
.
){{?,;·o··· f . ,,.·.·.·.·.·.,.,.t/f'\,,.
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::;:;:;:;:;:;:;::::::::
. :;:::::::.. standing with top up (the same as it appears in full
u
size drawing ) . H eat where shown. Use 10" crescent
:f�:ff: 1/2 "f�:}�:}ff. \::.... wrench, to bend Pull one mount toward you, making
::;;:;:;:::;::::.. ..:::.. .... ....... ...:;::;:;:::::::::::;:;:;:;:;:;:::::::::::.. right mount.

Installation of mounts
on Page 19.

Use 10" cres c ent wrench

here to bend mount.

�....-Pull
.. one forward, makes
right. Push one backwards,

makes left.
Use straight edge to
check for proper amount
of bend - 3/lo".

Make shackle hangers from

l" O.D. X 3/4" I .D. seamless tubing
and 5/S" N.F. allen bolt. Grind
head of bolt to fit pipe, weld to
center on 1- 3/4"
long pipe.
We advise buying spring

i II
shackles and hangers complete.
These hangers carry the whole
I weight of car.
 When using '60 to '68 Econoline axle the spring mounts must be cut off and ground

smooth:

Spindle from drivers Weld steering arm_.,... - Spindle from

side of van: on in line with passenger side of van:
spindle shaft.
( See Page 21)

/
,/
//
/
Hole for' i" water pipe 35" long Hole for
original spring: original spring:

After the axle and spindles are completed the radius rod hangers need

welded on. The axle and spindles are turned around so tie rod is

in front of axle. Cut a piece of i" water pipe 35" long to properly space and hold rod

hangers during welding.

Bolt hangers together using all-thread and pipe spacer through spring

mounting holes. Be sure left and right hangers are on proper sides with top of

hangers on top side of axle. Use original spring mounting holes

to center the radius rod hangers.

19
i. - - --- -- -----
-- -
--- ---- ---- -- ·---�----- -
 Spring hangers go over original spring holes

A //
'---B
'3"1~, ... , ~ 3/16"
3v---~~
Measurements for mounting front spring hangers.
A and B should be equal distance, full directions
on Page 18.

3/16"

1/4"

--- 1/4"
3/4" eye 3/4" eye

To mount spring on axle

axel, use C-clamp
and 24" piece of steel or 2 X 4 as
shown below.

zo
hole for drag link. Cut 1-1/2" hole to mount on King pin boss of

Econoline spindle. ID mayb e necessary to grind spindle boss to make

steering arm fit flush with top of boss.

Heat and bend

Line.up 1/2-".hole King pin hole and axle
shape of axle. ��--�

shaft as shown above fig l. Weld complete-··

ly around 1-1/2'hob:i! :& bottom side of arm.

ECO NOLI NE

� 1-1/2" �
I �\�:-\:\·.\}·.·.·.\ f·.-.\··\ if·:·:\\·}.·.·.\·.-.·.\ l··f:·:-:-:}\·.·.�\· T
I4"
g
3

Cut A�R and C from 1/4"

plate and weld on frame.

Instructions on pages 22

and 24.

ZI
 Make sure top plate slopes
to center of frame. ~

-[L]

41 "
When installing uprights measure from back side of front cross m mber 41"
tack weld upright B to frame rail. Teck weld upright A-39-i" back from
front cross member. Make uprights 90 degrees with top side of frame rail •

..::-----------------45-t"

·-11111111111111:1~11~111111111' 1!llllll1\lilill!llil!ili!ll\l1\\'1iilill!ll-
Right hand Thread

MaV:e drag link from 3/4" X.188 wall seamless tubing. Drill ends with
29/64" drill 2" deep. Tap ends.wfth'1/2" X 20 N.F. 1 left hand and 1
right hand thread.

1- Uniball 1/2" X 20

1- Uniball 1/2" X 20 Left hand

Reversed Corvair
Steering Box

zz
1-
1

A reversed aluminum Corvair steering box '60 to '63 is needed . To reverse box take end

adjustor nut off and lift out shaft and ball nut. Bore 15/16" hole in center of adjuster

nut on lathe. Remove grease seal from original shaft hole and plug with 15/16" freeze

plug. Put new grease seal in adjustor nut.

Bore 15/16"
hole in adjustor

nut.

File off the 4

squarw·splines

so pitman arm
Original
can be shaft hole ,·

I'� �.
/ . /"

�/
':.v·

To�reassemble stand steering box up with original shaft hole on

work bench. Turn sector shaft clockwise so teeth on sector shaft gear

are pointing up. Hold worm gear shaft by splines

lower into box making sure first tooth on ball nut block goes in

first notch on sector shaft gear. Turn sector shaft counter

clockwise and lower ballnut and shaft down into box.Make

sure bearings are in place. Put nut on and adjust.

I
 To install steering box mount. Tack weld uprights
/
on frame rail details on page 22. Bolt steering box A
on mounting plate-G-Page 21. With frame on flat sur-

face or work bench. Set steering box and plate on up-Fi Y-/ .

rights. Line up box as shown in fig.1-2-3. Grind top

1 /
. ,,.y!:? Q

edge of A and B to adjust angle and align box.

�Tack weld to outside edges of A and B. Recheck _/

, /�;;;?_/
then weld completly. e Rail _
�
�
Left Fram
e
Re ar of f ram
' enter Of rear
rear cr s member
ctf

2 pieces of 1-1 /2" X .12 5 ga. steel

7" long are needed to close front end

of frame rails. Tack weld to bottom

I
edge of rail. Tack to sides of rail !
B i
in 1/2" interva,ls forming front edge

of rail as you weld. Then weld com­ B & C must be

2
plBtely and grind smooth. parallel
- D -4-___;IEefl�f---llBt---

D must be

90° df?c;rees

from B

Center of front ·

cross member

Cross member should be

-- E
welded on inside of rail E & F must
be parallel. o , Fig. 3
before closing front of F

lGr -101
frame rail.

Frame Rails

Z4
t.___ ___
 i

---33-3/4n---··
I
-·
··�
I

-�-!1 �1 1!\ 1iliiiir::�

FULL SIZE PATTERN

REAR RADIUS RODS

4--5/8" Clevises 7/8" O. D.X.188 Wall

With 3/8" Slot Reg. Seamless

1;;;i:; :: ;;:
49" ·······--�

iii'!�1����:i!�iii!i\�!11: 1 1
�--

FULL SIZE PATTERN

FRONT RADIUS RODS

4--1/2" Clevises 3;4" o .D. Wall
With 3/8" S t Req. Seamless Tubing 2-Req.
 Fig.

End View

Gut radius rods to

proper lengths shown

on page-25. Drill and

tap radius rods both

Fig. 2 ends of top tube. One

Bottom end of lower tube. (

Tube
Shown On page- 25.

Cut bottom tubes on

° After radius rods
20 Degree angle shown
are cut to length
above Fig. 1.

Grind or file with tapped

and ground to fit.

rattail file to make
bottom tube fit top Lay on flat surface

and tack weld as shown

tube as shown in fig.
above. Check angle and
2 •

from end of top

weld completly around

Heat bend as shown on

You �ay be wise to try making radius rods from some scrap pieces of tubing.
Cut angle grind and weld as explained above. Then clamp in vise,bend bottom
tube close to weld if weld holds then make your radius rods.

Z6
 Rear rods measure 6-3/4"

When bending
Front rods measure 5-1/2"
the radius rods

make measurement at

rear as shown.

r
:
.:. _
_
__
_
_ 3/ " X _:J.:' _T QP= �.§.S shim here
__.=-.=-;;.""""
_

I A jig for bending radius rods can

I easily be made by using 3/16" X 1"
Cr/
4)1
I �,./ /.
I
r
steel strap shown by dotted lines
, <\.9" /
I welded to a 1/4" steel plate 6" x/1.6" � ..... � .....
'\-' / /

I 12". Clamp jig to work )

- - ,.....
- --

c::.=-- bending at
I bench heat and bend lower

I rods until they match

I 3/16" X 1" guide
down tube as

I tube meets the

I
I guide. Bend until
l
I measurement at

I rear of tubes are

I
I
I 1/4" X 5" X 7-1/2" steel plate
reached.
I
L ____
__ __
___ __ __ _
_
---------- _J
Z7
Ford product, '58 to '60 rear springs can
be used to make these springs. Use end
of spring with 7/8" hole. Cut to lengths
shown below, drill 5/16"hole as shown
.--·--��·-·-· - ·-� - . -··

on full size pattern. Arch springs for

8" drop from mbunt to eye. We advise
buying springs, unless you have had

----
some experience working with them.

2"

If Ford
springs are
used 7/8"0.D. X
3/4"I.D. X 2''long
reducer bushings
are needed.

1� --15t"
�
�-
�
·------- 1 ��»-�
.
7 -
-
- ,.,.:;-.....
�
--�,--
· ---....__ <".-">

I .... ��

Tri�:�'I
8" �rch
,/
'lti- - ---
t' - ----
--- � <>,,...>::

---- 2 i t "
-� ��.-...

'�·--,
""
.
'-
�

Rear spring mounting plates 2 requireid

Bolt holes in perch and plate have t'o
!
I
I "
·,
'·,

''- �- -',
-'-.... '- ��
'<.'.;-

·, ,
�
�
"' "
�
I
be exactly the same as shown on fulJ
I
·

L���-18-J/4
size patterns to make springs line up '
to rear end.
�"����

Z8
 When welding mounts together ace
axle housing or 3"pipe to
Install mounts so center of
keep them square. shackle hole, axle and pinion
shaft are in line.
AXLE HOUSING
or
3" PIPE

Figr 1

SPRING HANGERS

l" Long
After mounts are made place on rear end
as shown below Fig-3. A-and B must be equal
when mounts measure 19-3/4" on center.
Tack weld as shown above. Recheck measure­
ments then weld all the way around both
sides of plates.

19-3/4"Cente

To assemble mounts place

2 side plates on 1" x 2"
tube. bolt side � lates to­
gather useing 3/8" x 1" spacer
as shown above Fig.- 1 Make
Aand B equal than weld tube
to side plates.(Brazing works well.)

29
.

Mount rear radius rod plates so

1/2" bolt holes are 90° degrees

from p inion shaft as
shown in illustration.

Radius rod mounts angle

in 6° degrees. Measure rear end

width between backing

p lates. Take 38" from total width

. Half the remaining width is A

the other half is B

Tack weld mounts and recheck

masurements.A & B must be the

same so mounts will be centered.

Weld both sides of mounts all

the way around.

�o
 /
2--1 2" Uniballs Req.

1-- Left Hand Thread

1--Right Hand

B on both
I \ \ ' sides all the way a�

round.

/
s eamless tubing 10-1 2"long.

Drill and tap both ends.

/
1-End 1 2" X 20 right hand thread
/
1-End 1 2" X 20 left hand thread

\s::i=:w:=::::=-----....c:-. eld with rear end

in frame
 ;~\{~iif~=i=~=i\\\j\
::~:~: PATTERN ~:~:~
:f~ 2-Reqd. :f
T
:~r1 1/4" :r~
:irs;uare ~~/ 2 ..
::~:~: Tubeing}~ - 114

rn
':t(i~t??
. Drill 1/2" holes and bolt v.w>tf{/fffj
rear shocks to mounting plates •..,,J:{j[!(::::1::::1:
Mount with rear in frame.
A & B must be equal.

1-1/8"

-1/4!'

Lower shock mount will Upper shock mount will

e on 6° degree angle be on 6° degr;~ angle
with pinion shaft. with top of frame rail.

0
0

f··
I k
A~~---
4 5-3/4-'-'-"- - - - -

r---
 Ohio Street T'S Akron , Ohio

Here is a few photos of a completed chassis built from the plan set you have.
These photos maybe helpful when constructing your frame. When finished you will
have one of the finest chassis's on the market today, with the rug g edness and
safety of a drag car, plus the detailing you need for a show winner.
 T-Bucket Build Mastery: Compare and Contrast

Every T-Bucket build should be personal. Personal, in that it fulfills the vision of the T-Bucket builder.
That's you!

John Eplen's unique T-Bucket build features a custom tubular frame and Jaguar IRS.

You don't have to settle for what's being offered on the market. That's the beauty of a T-Bucket build.
The basic design is so simple that you can customize it to suit your own requirements and taste.

But wait, you say. I'm just a hobbyist building a T-Bucket in my home garage. I'm not an automotive
engineer or mechanic. Not to worry. Think of a T-Bucket like a big Lego set where you put together
different standard configurations into thousands of variations of combined components. And you do
that simply through the process of compare and contrast.
When you compare two things you ask yourself, "How are these things alike?"

When you contrast two things you ask yourself, "How are these things different?"

Jerry Chenot’s custom T-Bucket build features an extended body and lengthened stainless steel
frame to match.

How to Customize Your T-Bucket Build

What you want to do is start gathering a collection of different T-Bucket plans. Sure, that sounds like a
self-serving statement coming from a site that sells T-Bucket plans, but that's the easy way to do it. And
that's why we offer a variety of plans. If everybody built a T-Bucket just following Chester Greenhalgh's
"How to Build a T-Bucket for Under $3000" it wouldn't be as exciting as the T-Bucket build world is
today. Same goes if everybody who built a T-Bucket used the CCR T-Bucket Chassis Plans.

For example, maybe you like the tapered front frame rails in the Youngster Free T-Bucket Chassis Plans.
And maybe you've latched onto an Econoline front axle assembly you'd like to use as Chester shows how
in his plans. And maybe a friend gave you a great deal on a Jaguar independent rear suspension that you
want to use like is shown in the CCR plans. All you have to do is take some time to compare and contrast
the different plans and then you can come up with your own personal version.
 Emerson and BJ Sutton enjoy a smooth independent front suspension ride with the T-Bucket
build they chose.
Once you start viewing a variety of T-Bucket plans you'll see an incredible opportunity to mix and match
components. This spring perch and that batwing design. Rear coil-over shocks or quarter elliptic leaf
springs? Higher rear frame kickup or none? Steering shaft through the firewall or straight up from the
floor? Firewall or frame mounted foot pedals? The possibilities are endless and that, my friend, is what
makes it possible for virtually every T-Bucket build to be different.

The more plans you see, the more possibilities you have. And be sure to send us some pics of your own
unique T-Bucket build. We'll try to share them for others' inspiration.