Textile Industry
Textile Industry
Textile Industry
Assignment
Topic:
Textile industry
Subject:
Industrial chemistry
Submitted to:
Bilal shb
Submitted by:
Zohaib Saddique
BSF-1701138
BS-Chemistry (M)
4th semester
Textile Industry
Definition:
The textile industry is primarily concerned with the design, production and
distribution of yarn, cloth and clothing. The raw material may be natural, or synthetic using
products of the chemical industry.
History
The origin of the Indian textiles is thought to be the Indus Valley civilization, situated
in modern Pakistan, where people used homespun cotton to weave garments. Historically,
the Indus valley region engaged in significant trade with the rest of the world. The silk from
the region, for example, is known to have been popular in Rome, Egypt, Britain, and
Indonesia.
In the 1950s, textile manufacturing emerged as a central part of Pakistan's industrialization,
shortly following independence from the British rule in the South Asia. In 1974, the Pakistan
government established the Cotton Export Corporation of Pakistan (CEC). The CEC served as
a barrier to private manufacturers from participating in international trade. However, in the
late 1980s, the role of the CEC diminished and by 1988-89, private manufacturers were able
to buy cotton from ginners and sell in both domestic and foreign markets. Between 1947 and
2000, the number of textile mills in Pakistan increased from 3 to 600. In the same time
period, spindles increased from 177,000 to 805 million.
History of textile industry in Pakistan
The Textile industry in Pakistan is the largest manufacturing industry in Pakistan.
Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile commodities in Asia. Textile sector contributes
8.5% to the GDP of Pakistan. In addition, the sector employs about 45% of the total labour
force in the country (and 38% of the manufacturing workers). Pakistan is the 4th largest
producer of cotton with the third largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and India and
contributes 5% to the global spinning capacity. At present, there are 1,221 ginning units, 442
spinning units, 124 large spinning units and 425 small units which produce textile.
Production
There are six primary sectors of the textile production in Pakistan:
❖ Spinning
❖ Weaving
❖ Processing
❖ printing
❖ Garment manufacturing
❖ Filament yarn manufacturing
Synthetic fibres:
Natural fibres:
Natural fibres are either from animals e.g. sheep, goat, rabbit, silk-worm, mineral e.g.
asbestos or from plants e.g. cotton, flax, sisal. These vegetable fibres can come from the seed
of cotton, the stem, known as best fibres: flax, hemp, jute, or the leaf (sisal).Without
exception, many processes are needed before a clean even staple is obtained- each with a
specific name. With the exception of silk, each of these fibres is short, being only centimetres
in length, and each has a rough surface that enables it to bond with similar staples
Willowing
Sliver Lap
Combing
Drawing
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Slubbing
Intermediate
Reeling Doubling
Beaming Cabling
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Warping Gassing
Sizing/Slashing/Dressin Spooling
g
Weaving
• Ginning
The seed cotton goes into a Cotton gin. The cotton gin separates seeds and removes the
"trash" (dirt, stems and leaves) from the fiber. In a saw gin, circular saws grab the fiber and
pull it through a grating that is too narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is used with
longer staple cotton. Here a leather roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set close to the
roller, detaches the seeds by drawing them through teeth in circular saws and revolving
brushes which clean them away.
Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in large, 500 pound bales. When the
cotton comes out of a bale, it is all packed together and still contains vegetable matter. The
bale is broken open using a machine with large spikes. It is called an Opener. In order to fluff
up the cotton and remove the vegetable matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or similar
machines. The cotton is fed into a machine known as a picker, and gets beaten with a beater
bar in order to loosen it up. It is fed through various rollers, which serve to remove the
vegetable matter. The cotton, aided by fans, then collects on a screen and gets fed through
more rollers till it emerges as a continuous soft fleecy sheet, known as a lap.
• Blending,
Scutching refers to the process of cleaning cotton of its seeds and other impurities
The scutching machine worked by passing the cotton through a pair of rollers, and then
striking it with iron or steel bars called beater bars or beaters. The beaters, which turn very
quickly, strike the cotton hard and knock the seeds out. This process is done over a series of
parallel bars so as to allow the seeds to fall through. At the same time, air is blown across the
bars, which carries the cotton into a cotton chamber.
• Carding
• Carding: the fibers are separated and then assembled into a loose strand (sliver or
tow) at the conclusion of this stage.
• The cotton comes off of the picking machine in laps, and is then taken to carding
machines. The carders line up the fibers nicely to make them easier to spin. The
carding machine consists mainly of one big roller with smaller ones surrounding it.
All of the rollers are covered in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses further on
the teeth get finer (i.e. closer together). The cotton leaves the carding machine in the
form of a sliver; a large rope of fibers
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softer less twisted thread that was favoured for fines and for weft.
• It was a continuous process, the yarn was coarser, had a greater twist and was
stronger so was suited to be warp. Ring spinning is slow due to the distance the thread
must pass around the ring, other methods have been introduced.
This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound to give a tighter bobbin.
• Folding and twisting
Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins and twisting it together, in
the opposite direction that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the cotton
may or may not be plied, and the number of strands twisted together varies.
• Gassing
Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly through a
series of Bunsen gas flames in a gassing frame, in order to burn off the projecting fibers and
make the thread round and smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of yarn are
gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines, many Egyptian qualities,
etc. There is a loss of weight in gassing, which varies' about 5 to 8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's
yarn is required 2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is darker in shade afterwards, but
should not be scorched.
Measurements
• Cotton Counts: Refers to the thickness of the cotton yarn where 840 yards of yarns weighs 1
pound (0.45 kg). 10 count cotton means that 8,400 yards (7,700 m) of yarn weighs 1 pound
(0.45 kg). This is coarser than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards are needed. In the United
Kingdom, Counts to 40s are coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium counts and above
80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are coarse counts.
• Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards (the worsted hank is only 560 yd
• Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference of a warp beam)
• Bundle: Usually 10 lb
• Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards
• Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equivalent to the weight
in grams of 9000m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30 denier.
• Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.
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Weaving-fabric manufacture
The weaving process uses a loom. The lengthway threads are known as the warp, and
the cross way threads are known as the weft. The warp, which must be strong, needs to be
presented to loom on a warp beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle that carries
the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn needs
to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns before weaving can commence.
• Winding
After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken to a warping room where the
winding machine takes the required length of yarn and winds it onto warper’s bobbins
• Warping or beaming
Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it is rolled onto the warp bar of
a loom. Because the thread is fine, often three of these would be combined to get the desired
thread count.
• Sizing
Slasher sizing machine needed for strengthening the warp by adding starch to reduce
breakage of the yarns.
• Drawing in, Looming
The process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the dents of
the reed and the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated by the draft.
Pirning
Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the weft from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns
that would fit into the shuttle
• Weaving
At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the era, one person could manage
anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid nineteenth century, four was the standard
number. As time progressed new mechanisms were added that stopped the loom any time
something went wrong. The mechanisms checked for such things as a broken warp thread,
broken weft thread, the shuttle going straight across, and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of
these Northrop Looms or automatic looms could be operated by one skilled worker.
The three primary movements of a loom are shedding, picking, and beating-up.
• Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two lines, so that the shuttle can
pass between these lines. There are two general kinds of sheds-"open" and "closed."
Open Shed-The warp threads are moved when the pattern requires it-from one line
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to the other. Closed Shed-The warp threads are all placed level in one line after each
pick.
• Picking: The operation of projecting the shuttle from side to side of the loom through
the division in the warp threads. This is done by the over pick or under pick motions.
The over pick is suitable for quick-running looms, whereas the under pick is best for
heavy or slow looms.
• Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom when making cloth, and is the
action of the reed as it drives each pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.
The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-automatic loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby
looms are looms that have sophisticated methods of shedding. They may be separate
looms, or mechanisms added to a plain loom. A Northrop Loom was fully automatic
and was mass produced between 1909 and the mid-1960s. Modern looms run faster
and do not use a shuttle: there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier looms.
Measurements
• Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth
can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch
square. Ends is always written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made from coarse
yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and about 48
ends and 52 picks.
• Desizing
Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid
and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.
• Scouring
Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural
wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibers and any
added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is
boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is usually
enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure,
excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fiber. If the
appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although
desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric
preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing
processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibers are yellowish, and
bleaching, the next process, is required.
• Bleaching
A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic
soda solution to cause swelling of the fibers. This results in improved lustre, strength and
dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the
tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey
cloth, or after bleaching.
Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low
flammability, crease resist and other special effects but four important non-chemical
finishing treatments are:
• Singeing
Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibers from the fabric to produce
smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibers, then passes over a plate
heated by gas flames.
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• Raising
Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with
sharp teeth to lift the surface fibers, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in
flannelette.
• Calendering
Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed
between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on
roller surface properties and relative speeds.
• Shrinking
Printing, on the other hand, is the application of color in the form of a paste or ink to
the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localized dyeing.
Printing designs onto already dyed fabric is also possible.
manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34 per cent of energy is consumed in spinning,
23 per cent in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet processing and five per cent in
miscellaneous processes. Power dominates consumption pattern in spinning and weaving,
while thermal energy is the major factor for chemical wet processing.
Cotton acts as a carbon sink as it contains cellulose and this contains 44, 44% carbon.
However, due to carbon emissions from fertiliser application, use of mechanized tools to
harvest the cotton, cotton manufacture tends to emit more CO² than what it stores in the
form of cellulose.
The growth of cotton is divided into two segments i.e. organic and genetically
modified. Cotton crop provides livelihood to millions of people but its production is
becoming expensive because of high water consumption, use of expensive pesticides,
insecticides and fertiliser. Genetically modified products aim to increase disease resistance
and reduce the water required. The organic sector was worth $583 million. Genetically
modified cotton, in 2007, occupied 43% of cotton growing areas.
Before mechanisation, cotton was harvested manually by farmers in India and by African
slaves in America. In 2012 Uzbekistan was a major exporter of cotton and uses manual
labour during the harvest. Human rights groups claim that health care professionals and
children are forced to pick cotton.
• Scutching
• Hackling or combing
• Pounding
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Wool
Wool comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two products, woollens and worsteds.
The sheep has two sorts of wool and it is the inner coat that is used. This can be mixed with
wool that has been recovered from rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that is not
matted, while mungo comes from felted wool. Extract is recovered chemically from mixed
cotton/wool fabrics.
The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep. This is then skirted to remove the soiled wool,
and baled. It is graded into long wool where the fibres can be up to 15 in, but anything over
2.5 inches is suitable for combing into worsteds. Fibres less than that form short wool and
are described as clothing or carding wool.
At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to remove grease (the yolk) and impurities.
This is done mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable matter can be removed
chemically using sulphuric acid (carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap and sodium
carbonate. The wool is oiled before carding or combing.
• Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs, mungo and shoddy and new short wool
• Worsteds
Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed in the circular comber. The worsted
yarn gathers together to form a top. The shorter fibers or noils remain behind and are
removed with a knife.
• Angora
Silk
The processes in silk production are similar to those of cotton but take account that
reeled silk is a continuous fibre. The terms used are different.
• Opening bales. Assorting skeins: where silk is sorted by color, size and quality, scouring: where the
silk is washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to remove the natural gum, drying: either by steam
heating or centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any remaining hard spots.
• Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel in a frame with many others. The silk is
wound onto spools or bobbins.
• Doubling and twisting. The silk is far too fine to be woven, so now it is doubled and twisted
to make the warp, known as organzine and the weft, known as tram. In organzine each single
is given a few twists per inch (tpi), and combine with several other singles counter twisted
hard at 10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two singles are doubled with each other with a light twist, 3
to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is two tram threads, hard twisted, and machine-twist is made of three
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hard-twisted tram threads. Tram for the crepe process is twisted at up to 80 tpi to make it
'kick up'.
• Stretching. The thread is tested for consistent size. Any uneven thickness is stretched out. The
resulting thread is reeled into containing 500 yd to 2500 yd. The skeins are about 50 inches
in loop length.
• Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again, and discoloration removed with a sulphur process. This
weakens the silk. The skeins are now tinted or dyed. They are dried and rewound onto
bobbins, spools and skeins. Looming, and the weaving process on power looms is the same
as with cotton.
• Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This is a similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty threads
or so are wound onto a warping reel, and then using the warping reels, the threads are beamed. A
thick layer of paper is laid between each layer on the beam to stop entangling.
• Cost of production: The rising cost of production in the country has stalled investment as
well as export competitiveness. A vertical shift in monetary policy and KIBOR rates have
contributed to an increase in the cost of doing business and reduced lending abilities of local
manufacturers.
• Energy Crisis: Pakistan is currently facing a large-scale energy crisis. Due to energy demand
exceeding supply by about 5000 MW. The government manages the deficit through daily
power cuts (or blackouts). These power cuts have significantly impacted manufacturing
industries in Pakistan. Several textile mills have closed their units due to inability to sustain
operations. In addition, the mills have reportedly turned away export orders due to the
inability to fill these orders when power cuts per day can last upwards of 12 hours.
Research and Development: There has been a limited effort to improve the quality and
quantity of textiles in Pakistan through research and development, limiting the co
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EXPORT
hong kong
pakistan
republic of korea
turkey
india
china
euopean union
20 | P a g e
Magnus Lahore
AR Garments Lahore
Textilo Lahore
FastLeather.PK Karachi
AM International Sialkot
References:
1. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/textile-manufacturing-process-process.html?m=1
2. http://www.textile.gov.pk
3. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/market-intelligence/countryprofile/pakistan-textile-industry-
overview/
4. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.businesslist.pk/category/textile%3famp=1