TECHNICAL CHECKLIST

Technical checklist is one of the advance feature of “AKASTI DESIGNS”. This is the
document where we provide the details of different construction work individually. This
document contains the details of structural work, brickwork procedure and their technical
specifications, plaster work detail, etc. it is suggested to use the same technical specification
in different work as shown in technical checklist to maintain higher structural quality. This is
the document which contains all the technical specification details of finishing work. This
way the maximum structural life can be achieved by following the details included in this
section.

R.C.C. Work

P.C.C.
1. Study the plan carefully. (Design plan, structural plan, layout plan, formwork details).
2. Select cement aggregate as per the specifications.
3. Whenever the batch of P.C.C. is prepared, it will always maintain the constant ratio of
1:4:8.
4. The assigned authority must make sure that the drawing is properly checked and the
places are carefully marked where the P.C.C is to be placed.
5. If the specifications are not mentioned then the thickness of P.C.C. should always be
kept 100 mm (4 inches).

Reinforcements
1. Study the structural drawing carefully.
2. The reinforcement work should be done according to the requirement of the plans.
3. The advanced structural terms and codes must be followed during the binding of
reinforcements for structural work. (For exa.:- corners of the footing reinforcements
should be bent at 75 mm in right angles, column reinforcement development length at
column footing junction should be at least around 400mm, the already bent corners of
the reinforcement footing must be bent up again by 450 etc… )
4. The binding wire should be provided at each and every junction where two or more
bars meet/cut each other in a precise manner.
5. The minimum spacing between two parallel bars should be at least the minimum size
of an aggregate. (So, that it may pass through it.)
6. In case if there is a problem regarding the minimum spacing not being achieved then
the final decision rests with the higher authority appointed on the site.
7. When a span of bar being used is less than 2.5 m then the bar should be continuous
and must not overlap. (Overlapping must be avoided at all costs.)

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 8. The smaller bits/pieces of bars must be used to make transverse reinforcements and it
must be designed as per the specifications and if the length of the piece of a bar being
used is less by 1” or 1.5” even then the bar must be discarded as unfit to be used as a
transverse reinforcement.
9. The smaller bits/pieces that remained After the binding work should be used in sill,
lintels, chajjas, coping etc.
10. Once the reinforcement binding work is completed, the site in charge or supervisor
must schedule a visit to check and give approval. Only after his/her approval should
the work proceeds for concreting.
11. If a modification/alteration is suggested by the supervisor, it should be duly noted by
the subordinates and executed instantly before seeking further approval from the
authority.
12. The cover should be provided as per the guidelines mentioned in the drawing (at
every 3 ft. of the span) and the reinforcements should be tied up with a binding wire at
each of those points wherever the cover blocks/stones are kept.
13. The criteria for minimum spacing must be strictly adhered to, and the instructions of
the higher authority must be followed regarding the same.

Formwork
1. A metal plate or plywood sheet should be used as a form work and the wooden planks
should be avoided being used for the same at all costs and even then if the necessity
arises to do so then a polyethylene/plastic sheet must be used to cover it completely
and then put it to use.
2. Final level of centering/formwork should be checked properly as per the
specifications mentioned in the plan or according to the instructions provided.
3. The metal sheets/plywood must be oiled prior 24 hours before installing it.
4. The prop used in the formwork must be checked for any and all kinds of flaws and
must be erected upright, a special precaution must be taken to ensure that the
connections of the props must not be loose. All the metal sheets/plywood must not
be loose, if that is the case then the faulty props and sheets must be replaced by the
new ones or the better ones.
5. The bracings should be installed horizontally and in such a way that each floor must
have two iterations of bracings one on the above and other below it. Also it should
be installed in such a way that the two bracings must intersect a column in right
angle and they should intersect each other in right angle as well.
6. Recheck the entire centering/formwork installation before laying concrete over it for
the last time to ensure that there are no flaws in it.
7. During the removal of centering/formwork, the procedures should be followed in the
light of IS codes mentioned for that particular part. (Viz. the duration, the removal
procedure etc.)

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 R.C.C.
1. Before commencing the laying of concrete, mark the level using a red paint on the
edges of the corners of the formwork and reinforcements for reference.(To get an idea
about how much concrete level is desired to be placed).
2. Select cement, sand and aggregate as per the recommended specifications.
3. Use the mix proportion of 1:2:4 for M15 grade concrete and 1:1.5:3 for M20 grade
concrete.
4. Mixing should be done with the help of a mechanical concrete mixer.
5. Special precautions must be taken whilst the concrete mix is being placed like the
unwanted stones (round shaped sandstones) must be removed & the mix must be
placed in such a way that it should not be cast down from a height but gently from
below the shoulder level of a man/woman so that the future complications must be
avoided.
6. A vibrator must be used wherever the R.C.C is placed.
7. The curing of the structural work might take at least a month to get set in completely.
Hence, it is advisable to continuously for a month.

Brick and Block Wall Construction

1. Cleaning of entire floor before starting the line-out of masonry.
2. The level of RCC band marked on the column with due consideration to the thickness
of the layer.
3. Dimensions and diagonals of all the rooms should be checked after putting in the first
layer on the entire floor.
4. Check the first layer using beam bottom edge, offset & plumb with respect to the face
of beam.
5. An opening is to be provided for doors, at first layer, for windows and A.C. units at
sill level or as per the specifications provided in the drawing.
6. Check the quality of doors and frames as per the specifications, it should be free from
cracks, bends, knots & termite attack, also check for the grooves, section, size, height,
corner support, bottom support etc., of the doors and frames.
7. Ensure the proper screening of sand and proper mixing of mortar i.e., 1.6 sand sieved
and its silt content must be less than 8%.
8. All the blocks/bricks to be used are thoroughly soaked in water for 2 hours, so that
they do not absorb the water from the mortar. Use saw for block cutting don’t allow
taccha for same.
9. Erection of door frames with 2-3 holdfasts/columns provided using a patti after laying
the first layer, fix the holdfast to frames on wall face and Patti to RCC column side.
Thickness of holdfast should be minimum of 3 mm. Use screw for frame and cement
nails for column nailing. Ensure that all the frames are in level.
10. Holdfasts should be fixed on the second layer of block from bottom/top and one at
center of Patti level. Also check whether Black Japan is applied on the side of frames.

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 11. The concrete of holdfast should be done in the size of ‘length- 230 mm x width- wall
thickness x height- one block’.
12. On a 4 inch internal wall a reinforced coping (4”x4” size with two 6 mm dia. bars)
should be provided at every 1m height of the wall.
13. The work should progress in such a way that a wall & a coping must be completed in
a single day so that the coping must get time to settle for at least 6 hours.
14. There should be a provision for plaster margin, projecting 12mm out of the wall.
15. Raking of joint and surface cleaning (ensure that it should be done vertically) should
be done after the completion of work at the end of the day.
16. Thickness of joints should be 10mm thick uniformly.
17. Metal chips filling in the mortar in RCC/masonry junction must be 10mm to 20mm in
size.
18. Adjust the size of patti level to ensure that the last level touches the beam bottom, do
not leave a gap as far as possible.
19. The room should be cleaned regularly.
20. Check for any extra amenities.
21. Curing should be done for 14 days from the day of completion.

Window and Door Fixing

DOOR FIXING
1. While fixing a door frame there should be at least three hole-passes that should be
going in the wall, two at 30 cm from the top and bottom corner of the frame each and
one at the middle.
2. One end of each of the hole-pass is fixed in the frame with the help of a screw and the
other end of the hole-pass in the wall is covered with the concrete which is filled up to
the size of thickness of wall x height of one block or 1 feet x 20-30 cm length with the
help of formwork.
3. When the door is fixed in the frame, three hinges are provided for the door frame. The
two are fixed at a distance of 25 cm each from the top and bottom of each shutter and
one at the middle. The crack in between the door panel is filled with wooden putty
and primer (used for painting).
4. Above the window, concrete with reinforcement, i.e., lintel (of size at least 4” x 4”
with three 10 mm dia. Bars and M20 grade concrete) is constructed which helps in
distributing the load of the wall structure above on either side of the window.

WINDOW FIXING

1. On the window before fixing the door frame, a Kadappa stone/Granite is fixed at the
level below the bottom of the window. The Kadappa stone is fixed on the wall with
the help of a cement slurry having ratio 1:1, i.e., the cement slurry of honey like
viscosity. It is gently placed on the back side of stone and then fixed in the wall. The
dry cement is then thrown on the cement slurry to fixate the position of the stone.

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 2. Above the window, concrete with reinforcement, i.e., sill (of size at least 4” x 4” with
three 10 mm dia. Bars and M20 grade concrete) is constructed which helps in
distributing the above wall structure load on either side of the window.

Plastering

External Plaster
1. Ensure that the Block or Brick masonry and concrete surfaces are found clean, free
from dust, loose materials, oil, grease, mortar droppings, nails, metal strips, wooden
pieces, binding wire etc.
2. Erect a double scaffolding without making a hole in the wall (Or erect a single
standing scaffolding by taking support of wall as directed by the higher authority).
3. Fill the external gaps on the side in masonry & beam or column joints with rich
mortar and complete the socketing work.
4. Fix 6” wide chicken mesh on the joint of RCC & Masonry wall (Nailing of chicken
mesh should be at a distance of 230mm interval).
5. Take the plumb or line from top to bottom at all the edges to ensure the accuracy and
keep the thickness of the single coat plaster at minimum 10-12mm uniformly.
6. If a beam or column is bulged out, then chiseling is to be done with a small concrete
breaker or a sharp chisel and hammer, only after the RCC designer permits it.
7. Check all the elevational features and window openings as per the architectural
drawings.
8. Ensure that masonry work is complete in all respect and the surface to be plastered
should be dampened a day before plastering.
9. The above process should begin at least two days prior to the plastering so that it may
gain strength.
10. Sand sieved properly and silt content within permissible limits i.e., less than 8%. If
silt content is more than 8% then wash the sand before use.
11. Take sand proportion 1:5 with machine mix and the mixed mortar should be placed
within half an hour. Add waterproofing chemicals per bag into the mix as per the
recommendations.
12. After the preparatory measures, start plastering, ensure that no uneven surface is
observed.
13. Roughen the surface with wires for better bonding with the second coat.
14. Ensure that for all chajjah, projection should be finished with a protective drip mould
(pani patti) at the bottom of the chajjah.
15. Curing of single coat should be carried out then wait for 5 days and apply the second
coat plaster with punch finish, thickness should not be less than 6mm & not more than
10mm.
16. Curing of double coat plaster shall be minimum of 7 days.

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Internal Plaster
1. Ensure that the block or brick masonry & concrete surfaces are found clean and free
form dust, loose materials, oil, grease, mortar droppings, nails, metal strips, wooden
pieces, binding wire etc.
2. Joints in the block masonry should be raked off.
3. Ensure that the surface to be plastered is sufficiently dampened a day before
plastering.
4. Ensure that the unavoidable projection in masonry and concrete is chipped properly.
5. If a leakage is observed on the ceiling before plastering in toilet and W.C. then rectify
it by pressure grouting.
6. Chicken mesh must be fixed on all the vertical & horizontal RCC, masonry joints &
on electrical conduits and repair the area of 150mm width.
7. Thiyya/level dots are made before the plaster interval which is no more than 1.5m in
length according to betel patti.
8. Sand should be sieved properly and silt content must be within permissible limits i.e.,
less than 8%.
9. Ensure the thickness of plaster should be no less than 12mm & not more than 15mm.
10. All the doors and window openings should be as specified in the drawings.
11. Ensure that all the Door frames are free from cracks, knots etc., and are in plumb level
lines & right angle.
12. Ensure that holdfasts or column strips (three on each side) are fixed properly with the
help of nailing and concrete.
13. Ensure that the height and location of electrical points, wall conduit, and switch
board, DB, TV and telephone points are fixed into the positions as per the drawings.
14. Ensure that all the electrical boxes are covered by putha or tape.
15. Make sure that the soffit of slab is in line & properly levelled and check for any other
extra entities that requires attention.
16. Ensure that the dimensions of the room are as per the drawing.
17. All the above points must be checked and permitted for plaster.
18. Make sure that the plaster is in line and properly levelled, the difference in plumb line
should not be more than 2mm.
19. Ensure that the putty Neeru finish is 1-1.5 mm thick and is applied over the hardened
plaster.
20. It should be cured by slightly sprinkling water as per the specifications for 7 days.
21. Ensure that at least a 100 mm cutting of plaster should be carried out in order to get it
levelled for the fixing of skirting & no exposed chicken mesh wire should be seen.
22. After Putty Neeru finish verify the room dimensions.
23. Ensure that the toweling of the plaster is done (Glutei) right after the above procedure,
preferably on the next day of plaster.
24. Cleaning should be carried out for window sill, door frame, electrical boxes, floor and
exposed slab to check unwanted plaster/brick mortar.
25. Loft tops are finished in level (should be flat and not slanted).

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 26. For toilet and bath leave the space of 45cm for plaster at the bottom for the purpose of
waterproofing.

Flooring
1. Flooring materials are checked in the lab as per the quality plan manual states and
must be approved. Test the certification number and ensure that the tiles are of the
same lot/Batch.
2. Floors should be cleaned and leveled. There should not be any cement mortar
lumps on the slab and at the corners of the rooms.
3. Check the skirting margin required from the surface level & ensure that it should
be at least 10cm high from floor surface.
4. Cement mortar required to be laid under the flooring should be prepared well in
advance before flooring work.
5. The cement lime mortar proportion should be 1:3:3.
6. This mortar is spread evenly in all the rooms with reference to the level dots.
7. Level dots are marked first on the main door frame (For exa..:- at 60cm from
finished door level) transfer the markings to all the other door frames of the flat on
that particular floor and consider this as a reference level for the walls as well.
8. Prepare the level dots below every marking in corners. The level spacing should
not be more than 2 m. with the help of “line dori”.
9. Prepare the uniform layer of minimum thickness of 12mm but not more than
40mm with cement lime mortar bed and let it set for minimum of 12 hrs. and tiles
should be fixed on the same day at least after 3 hours.
10. Fix the right angle to the longest span of the room, it will reduce the wastage and
keep it to the minimum.
11. Then fix string line format. Angle corner with one corner reference tile, if the
reference “right angle” string is not matching with wall, then try to adjust the
difference in skirting.
12. Prepare cement slurry bag 1.5 bag to 100 liter of water and spread it as much as
possible on the area so that it could be covered with tiles within half an hour and
start fixing the tiles from the reference line and match all the four corners of the
tiles properly with the help of a wooden mallet.
13. In case of two types of tilling, break the joins at a shutter groove line or on the
inside edge of the other room’s masonry that is if a door is not provided.
14. After completing the tilling work of the floor check the overall level, any
unevenness found may be rectified with wooden mallet.
15. Clean the floor and do not allow anybody to enter the premises for next 24 hrs.
16. On the next day fill the joint with white cement or grout chemical.
17. Fix the skirting tiles at the two ends of the wall, skirting tiles should be flushed
with the plaster surface and a 5mm groove should be marked over the skirting
tiles.

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 18. All the skirting tiles should be at the same line & level. So, put the plaster on the
surface and make a 5mm groove over the skirting tiles.

Waterproofing

Specification for Water Proofing Work W.C. & Bath

Pre-procedural work:
1. After the Completion of internal plaster of walls, commence with the work by leaving
a margin of 450 mm from the final floor level of W.C. and bath.
2. Ensure the Completion of grooving / chasing for concealed G.I. Piping, electrical
conduct of W.C. is executed according to the specifications provided.
3. Make sure that all the concealed G.I. and electrical work is executed properly.
4. Remove all the debris from W.C. and chiseling the extra mortar wherever required.
5. Make holes in the external walls for connecting nahani trap, p-trap, floor trap etc. to
connect it to the external drainage line.
6. Ensure the thorough cleaning of W.C. with sufficient quantity and force of water.
7. Make the level markings in red colour on wall with respect to floor level to set up trap
level.

Procedural work:
1. Remove all the debris form W.C. and extra mortar left from making holes in the
external wall for connecting nahani trap, ptrap, and floor trap drainage line. Fill up
W.C. slab up to 10 cm with water (after plugging rap holes) and keep it that way for
the day to check for any leakage in base slab or underneath.
2. If a major leakage is observed, provide socket at a leakage spot with addition of four
sockets at each corner of the slab.
3. Grout socket with cement slurry directly with the help of 1 bag of cement mixed with
75 liters of water.
4. In case of minor leakage put a cement slurry with an added recommended chemicals
directly over the slab and spread it with the help of a trowel and a brush.
5. After completion of cement grouting, Run a test for leakage by filling in the water till
the slab is found watertight otherwise retrace the whole step again.
6. Once the leakage of the base slab is rectified, provide 25 to 40 mm (or up to the depth
of sunken slab) thick cement mortar 1:4 base coat with a slope of 1:100 from entrance
door towards escape pipe.
7. Carry out a base coat on walls up to 45 cm above toilet’s finished floor.
8. Keep this base coat flooded with water on a slab top for minimum four days in order
to cure it & then test it, get it checked and certified by the site engineer and proceed
further only after his/her approval.
9. Select well burnt brick bats and soak them thoroughly in water for at least half an
hour before laying.

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 10. Fix the brick bat in cement mortar layer as per the proportion 1:6 and having slope of
1:100 adding a water proofing compound in it as per the specification for brick bat
coba.
11. All the holes made in wall for PVC/GI pipe connection should be finished with water
proofing Coba.
12. Cure this coba by ponding water for minimum four days and check for leakage and
certify the same and get it approved by project in charge.
13. Carry out a top coat with 1:4 cement mortar mixed with water proofing compound,
finish this coat properly with neat cement slurry using metal/wood float.
14. Roughen the surface by wire brush to keep the bonding for horizontal filler coat and
continue the coat on the side wall up to 45 cm above W.C. finish level.
15. The final coat should be tested by ponding water for the minimum of 7 days.
16. Chajja waterproofing should be completed before external plaster, joint socketing
work should be completed before 1st coat of external plaster, joint grouting work
should be completed before second coat of external plaster.(or as suggested by the
higher authority according to the circumstances)
17. Provide an outlet spout in toilet sunk for the prevention of over flow.

Socketing for W.C. & BATH waterproofing:

1. In case if there is a leakage in Base slab in that area, socketing is done.
2. Fill up W.C. slab with 7 cm of water (after plugging trap hole) preferably before a
day.
3. It is advisable to keep it filled with water for 12 hours.
4. Check if a major leakage is observed, provide 4 sockets in four corners of slab and
grouting the same with cement slurry by mixing a bag of cement in 75 liter of water
by stirring the mixer well and get a desired viscosity.
5. Grouting of cement slurry is done by grouting machine.
6. If a minor leakage is found in the base slab, put a cement slurry over base slab with
the help of trowel and brush, spread the slurry over base area of slab of W.C. and Bath
room.
7. Process of socketing and grouting is to be continued until the leakage in the base slab
is totally rectified, after the completion of cement grouting and testing of leakage,
remove the sockets for once.

Base coat for water proofing:

1. Provide 20 to 30 mm thick cement mortar base coat in proportion of 1:4 with
waterproofing chemical as per the requirement.
2. Carry out this base coat on walls above up to the height of 450 mm above the finished
floor level of W.C. and Bathroom. It should cover all beam tops, junction etc.
3. Base coat is kept flooded with water up to the slab drop or minimum 4 days for wiring
and testing purpose.
4. After 4 days, get the same checked & certified.

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Brick bat coba for W.C. & bath waterproofing:
1. Select well burnt brick bats. Over burnt brick bats should be strictly avoided.
2. Before laying, soak it thoroughly in water for at least half an hour.
3. Lay well- brick bats on the edge and not on the flat surface.
4. See to it that the minimum width is achieved between brick bats for filling such gaps
with mortar. Complete brick bat coba with joints filled in with cement mortar (1:4)
using a recommended water proofing chemical.
5. Give this coat 4 days to set in and check for leakage after 4 days.

Top coat for W.C. and bath waterproofing:

1. After the curing of brickbat coba coat carry out a top coat with a ratio of 1:4 CM
mixed with waterproofing compound. Finish this coat with neat cement slurry by
metal/wooden float.
2. Roughen the surface by wire brush to keep the bonding for horizontal filler coat.
Continue this coat on the side walls up to 45 cm above the finished floor level of
W.C. and bathroom. This coat should not project out more than the plastering coat of
W.C. walls to avoid un-necessary thickness of glazed tile dado.

Fixing and finishing of W.C. pan:-

1. Fix W.C. pan at a required level considering 5 to 10mm above from floor level or at
the floor level.
2. Block p/s -trap outlet hole of the W.C. by gunny bags of sand to avoid chances of
damages by waterproofing workmen.
3. Check whether the W.C. pan is in the center as per the drawing.
4. Over the top coat, fill the extra gaps around W.C. pan with a brick bat and mortar
layer such that it should be 7.5 cm below the top surface level of I.W.C. (Indian water
closet).
5. Allow it to Cure for 3 days.
6. Final top coat should be done up to 50 mm below the top surface level of W.C. with a
required slope towards W.C. pan.
7. Roughen up the top coat surface by wire brush to receive the tile mortar with an
intension of bonding.
8. Curing is advisable for at least 7 days.
9. All joints of P/S -trap, flush pipe, anti-syphon pipe, connection to vertical line etc.
should be properly joined.

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Stair Case Water Proofing
1. Staircase side wall socketing & grouting work should be completed once the
internal plastering is done and the socketing & grouting waterproofing work of
staircase should be completed right after the internal plastering & just before
staircase tile work.
2. Main door frame socketing & grouting work should be completed after internal
plaster work & just before staircase lobby plaster work.

Balcony & Terrace Waterproofing

1. Chisel whatever the extra mortar is found accumulated on terrace.
2. Rinse it completely with water.
3. Base coat procedure-
Mix one bag of cement with 100 liters of water. Stir up the mixer to get consistent
cement slurry, spread this slurry on terrace and allow it to penetrate uniformly over
the cleaned surface.
4. Check grading of sand, its silt content before using it for waterproofing.
5. Check the terrace door level. See to it that there is enough margin (approximately 15
cm) provided for waterproofing at its bottom.
6. Check the level mark it with red color on parapet wall from all the sides.
7. Check that the provision of rain water pipe outlet is bent at the correct position.
8. Select well burnt bricks and soak them well in water for at least half an hour.
9. Stack well burnt brick bats on terrace.
10. Check MS tray required for mixing mortar.
11. Check whether there is a provision for plastic paper/tarpolin for the protection of
waterproofing from occasional rains.

Brick bat coba for terrace waterproofing:

1. Fix line dori with a slope 1:150 starting from the corner points from rainwater down
take and by keeping 65 mm minimum thickness below rainwater outlet.
2. Fix bricks bats in CM of ratio 1:6 with a slope 1:150 mixed with a waterproofing
compound.
3. Fill CM 1:4 with waterproofing compound in brick bat joints.
4. In case, if joints of the coba work concludes at the end of the day then it is necessary
to provide brick bats in staggered manner and avoid continuous horizontal joint of
mortar.
5. Chisel out the bottom of the parapet wall up to 20 mm and fill in small pieces of brick
bats with mortar.
6. Special care should be taken for achieving the round shape near rain water pipe.

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 7. Block rainwater outlet with gunny bags to avoid entry of cement slurry into it. Cure it
for 7 days.

Final coat for terrace waterproofing:

1. Spread CM 1:4 along with waterproofing compound over brick bat coba.
2. Press cement mortar by 2 m long rules.
3. Level the surface using a wooden float by keeping 25 mm thickness.
4. Apply a thick cement slurry over leveled surface along with a waterproofing
compound for smooth finish.
5. Make vertical, horizontal lines at interval of 30 cm x 30 cm with line dhori of 3mm
thickness to avoid cracking of top layer.
6. Make projected edge between parapet plaster and rounding after a day.
7. Clean and cure final coat 21 days with at least 6” water standing on waterproofing
work.
8. If recommended, provide tiles & fix them on terrace tops with pani patti to the inner
side of the parapet wall.

UG Tank Waterproofing
For UG tank external waterproofing use ‘Box type waterproofing’.

While doing the waterproofing of any of the structure following points are checked to ensure
the correctness of waterproofing method:

1. Check whether all the materials i.e. cement, sand, brick and chemical used are of a
good quality as per quality standars manual.
2. All the plumbing holes made in wall/sunk before basecoat by using core cutting
method only.
3. Socketing / grouting is done before the base coat work (wherever required).
4. Grouting of cement slurry is done by grouting machine only.
5. Check if there is any kind of leakage from the W.C, bath and toilet slab once the
socketing is done.
6. Base coat is completed up to a height of 450mm from the floor level, and carry it out
up to the outer wall face.
7. Base coat should be kept flooded with water up to the slab drop top for 4 days and no
seepage / leakage is seen.
8. All the traps, outlets, chairs, water escape, and concealed pipes are fixed properly as
per the drawing.
9. The mouth of release pipe is well tied with M.S. net and approximately 2kg of metal
net is spread over and arranged in a way to make it porous.
10. Check water pressure and look out for leakage.
11. All the joints of traps, W.C. pan are sealed properly with cement mortar and sealant as
required.

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 12. All brick bats are well soaked in water and slope must be maintained properly.
13. Water-proofing compound is mixed with the mortar with C.M. ratio 1:4.
14. Brick bat coba kept flooded with water up to the slab drop top for 4 days and ensure if
a seepage / leakage is observed.
15. Brick bat coba is completed in slope 1:100 from entrance door to the water escape.
16. The top coat is carried out in one stroke, without any joints.
17. Cure the coat for minimum of 7 days and check for the seepage / leakage.

Dado / Tile Fixing

1. Dado materials are checked in the lab as per quality plan manual states and are
approved if found ok. Test certificate number.
2. Ensure that the Loft (for toilet and bath) are in level and there will be no gap between
top tiles & loft ceiling.
3. Vertical surface should be roughened, fairly plumbed and must be in right angles.
4. All concealed GI, PVC, plumbing & electric conduit installing should be carried out
before dado and flooring and check for leakage and blocking in electrical conduits.
5. Tile markings are marked on wall as per the plan and thiyya right angles are checked
before commencing the work. Take level dots at the corner with minimum thickness on
top and bottom and at right angles to the wall.
6. Set the base line with setting aluminum pattern patti in line and level by keeping full
tiles margin from bottom.
7. Tiles must be well soaked in water for minimum 2 hours.
8. Tiles must be well passed with wooden mallet, so that the cement paste at the back of
the tile should be covered to avoid hollow sound on the tiles (Hollow sound in tiling is
an example of bad workmanship).
9. All accessories opening holes in the tile like geyser, mixer, electrical, PVC etc. should
be made by grinder machine only and it should be of the same size of the outlet.
10. Start tiling in toilet / W.C. / Bath on the opening side of the door for dado and floor.
Carry out the work of dado tiling by working up step by step covering the height of
1.2m every day and on every second day grout the joint/ gap for better bonding.
11. Always try to match the line of tile vertically and horizontally and see if any of the
corners are coming out of the line dori, if so get it placed with a wooden mallet.
12. In case of window portion, if sill and jam is not provided, then tiling is done on sill and
jam overlapping it on the vertical tile.
13. The joint between two tiles should be kept nil.
14. Curing should be carried out continuously for 7 days.

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