SECTION – I

COMPANY OVERVIEW

AQUARELLE INDIA PVT. LTD.

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 1. COMPANY OVERVIEW

1.1 INTRODUCTION TO AQUARELLE INDIA

Aquarelle India private limited was incorporated in 2007 and is based in Bangalore,
Karnataka. The Company operates as a subsidiary of Aquarelle International limited
and Bang Overseas limited. As per the transaction announced on September 15,
2010, Aquarelle India private limited operates as a subsidiary of Aquarelle
International limited. Aquarelle India private limited was registered on 11 January
2007. Aquarelle clothing shirts division is a homogenous shirts manufacturer
operating in the upper/middle market segment. It’s a one stop shop for formal, causal
and ladies shirts.

Corporate Identification Number (CIN): U17299KA2007PTC062492.

Registration Number: 062492.

Registration date: 11-01-2007.

Their registered address on file is office No. 570,.22nd Main, 32nd cross, Jayanagar
4th block, Bangalore-560011, Karnataka, India.

AQUARELLE
INDIA

AQUARELLE AQUARELLE AQUARELLE

INDIA (UNIT- INDIA (UNIT-2, INDIA(UNIT-
1,JIGANI) BANNERGHATTA) 3,MANTAPA)

Fig: Manufacturing plants in Bangalore

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 1.2 ABOUT THE COMPANY

o Aquarelle Pvt Ltd is a famous garment/apparel Industry located in

Bangalore and is a pioneer in manufacturing men’s casual shirts as well as
women’s wear. It was started inthe year 2005
.
o Turnover: Rs. 5 billion (USD 162.8 million) as at 30 June 2016

CEO Mr. Eric Dorchies (Woven Cluster)

MANAGING DIRECTOR Mr. Nagesh Badida

WEBSITE www.cielgroup.com
www.aquarelleshirts.com

PARENT COMPANY Aquarelle International Limited.

 Aquarelle clothing shirts division is a homogenous shirts manufacturer

operating in the upper/middle market segment. It’s a one stop shop for formal,
causal and ladies shirts.

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  The group has manufacturing facilities in India, Bangladesh, Mauritius and
Madagascar. The company has positioned itself as the best alternative to
China, in the global apparel manufacturing market.

It’s a centralized global group with a multi-location marketing platform, in India all
the verticals are integrated within the group

o Own mill in Mauritius CFL

o Formal Shirt cluster: Laguna Clothing is a joint venture with Tessitura
Monte Italy.
 Aquarelle aims to deliver "unbeatable value" to its customers to help them
increasetheir market share and profitability. "Unbeatable value" key
ingredients being quality, service, flexibility, product development and
competitiveness.
 Aquarelle's shirts are exported to many renowned customers in Europe and
the USA. Being totally "customer driven", the group strategy is to closely
monitor market trends and position itself accordingly.
 The unit is integrated with its own weaving mill (Consolidated Fabrics Ltd) and
also sources yarn from different regions of the world ensuring that the most
competitive prices are offered.

1.3 VISION:
To be recognised by our customers, employees, suppliers and peers as being the
best in the industry.

1.3.1 7- KEY INGREDIENTS TO THEIR MISSION:

• Product leadership: To be the Best sellers

• Speed and flexibility: To be Second to none

• Grade A Quality: To make Consumers come back for more

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 • Reliability in Performance: Like Clockwork

• Service and Communication: To be Easy and convenient to work with

• Socially and ethically responsible: To be a leader in sustainable

development

• Competitiveness: To be the Best value supplier

1.4 THEIR CUSTOMERS WORLDWIDE:

SOUTH
USA 30% EUROPE 45% INDIA 13%
AFRICA 12%
Levis Hugo Boss Woolworths Levis
J crew Ben Sherman Lee
Marks &
Dillards Charles Tyrwhitt
Spencer
Daniel United Colors
Zara
Cremieux of Benetton
Cremieux Jeans Mexx Wrangler
Trevero Thomas Pink
The Men’s
Esprit
Warehouse
Jos A Bank Diesel
Brooks Brothers Marks & Spencer

1.5 PRODUCT RANGE:

LAGUNA
AQUARELLE CLOTHING
Casual shirts Formal
Shirts

PASTEL
CFL Woven
BLUE Ladies
Fabrics
Shirts

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 1.6 MANUFACTURING LOCATIONS:

 Monti India – Fabric Mill

 India – 6.5 million P – 43%

 Madagascar – 4 million P – 27%

 Mauritius – 3.5 million P – 23%

 Mauritius/ CFL – Fabric mill

 Bangladesh –1million P – 7%

1.7 MANUFACTURING CAPABILITIES

Factories set up to deliver high customer satisfaction with excellent teams,
equipment’s management systems and organization.

 Strong quality and productivity culture.



 World class selection and training systems for workers.



 Engineered workstations using folder, stackers and special purpose machines.



 Chairman Manufacturing Excellence Award yearly ceremony.

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 SECTION - II

DEPARTMENTAL OVERVIEW

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1. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

1.1 INTRODUCTION

In garments sector, merchandising is an important department which negotiates

marketing and production department at the same time. To make smooth the
merchandising activities every merchandiser has to follow a process flow chart by
which anyone can do his/her work very smartly. The process flow chart for apparel /
garments merchandising are presented in the below.

1.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Order received from the Buyer with details

↓
Sample Development
↓
Price negotiation with the Buyer
↓
Confirmation of order and receive the order sheet
↓
Make buyer requirement sample (Fit, Proto etc) for approval
↓
Make requisition for bulk fabric
↓
Make requisition for accessories
↓
Swatch board making and approval
↓
Raw material collection and also receive it in factory
↓
Check and also listing
↓
Make P.P (pre production Sample) with all actual
↓

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 Pre-production meeting
↓
Start bulk production
↓
Collect daily production and quality report
↓
Make online inspection by strong quality team
↓
Sample sent to third party testing centre
↓
Make final inspection for bulk production
↓
Shipment
↓
Send all documents to the Buyer
↓
Receive payment from Bank

1.3 DETAILED WORK FLOW

1. Order received from the Buyer with details: The very first work of a merchandiser
is to collect order from the buyer with the details information (Art work, technical
sheet).

2.Sample Development: Sample should be developed by following buyers

instruction.

3.Price negotiation with the Buyer: In the mean time, Price should be negotiated with
the Buyer.

4. Confirmation of order and receive the order sheet: Here price have to fix and
collect order sheet from the Buyer.

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5. Make Buyer requirement sample (Fit, Proto etc) for approval: Should be prepared

proto or fit sample for Buyer’s approval.

6. Make requisition for bulk fabric: In the mean time, make fabric requisition for bulk
production.

7. Make requisition for accessories: Make a requisition for the required accessories
of that order.

8. Swatch board making and approval: Should prepare swatch board of required

accessories for the Buyer’s approval.

9. Raw material collection and also receive it in factory: All the requisite raw materials
have to collect and receive in factory at right time.

10. Check and also listing: Check all the in-hosed material with requisite sheet.

11. Make P.P (pre-production Sample) with all actual: By following Buyers instruction
make a P.P sample with all actual.

12. Pre production meeting: Before going into the production, have to arrange pre
production meeting for smooth production.

13. Start bulk production: Finally you have to go into bulk production.

14. Collect daily production and quality report: Regular production and quality report
should be collected here in regular basis.

15. Make online inspection by strong quality team: During bulk production, have to
make online inspection by strong quality team.

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16. Sample sent to third party testing centre: For making a strong approval about the
quality of the product, have to send sample in third party testing centre.

17. Make final inspection for bulk production: After completing bulk production, make
a final inspection for the order.

18. Shipment: After making final inspection of the product, all the garments should
send to the Buyer.

19. Send all documents to the Buyer: All the documents about the order should send
to the buyer after sending the full order quantity for receiving payment.

20. Receive payment from Bank : Finally receive the payment from the Bank.

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2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

2.1 INTRODUCTION
Sampling department is the most vital department of the organization. It is the
department that develops the samples thus enabling the Product Development. This
department prepares samples on the basis of the requirements of the buyer. The
sampling department here caters to the need of all the other units of Aquarelle as it
was centralized for all the units in Bangalore. Sampling department is situated in
Bannerghatta near Unit 2 of Aquarelle casual shirts.

Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital
role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the
order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the
most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling
department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the
buyer.

Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory
is capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples
decide the ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer
accesses the capability of exporter only with the help of samples. If the samples are
of good quality naturally the buyers will be willing to place the order to factory.
Sampling also work as a bridge between the productions and marketing department,
hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as production department.

The Sample room objectives:

 To make a proper sample

 To understand buyers requirement
 To fulfil the buyers requirement
 To utilize the skill operation with skilled operator
 To combine the overall performance of an order
 To give the confirmation to the buyer that the bulk production is going to be right
 To get understanding completely to the operators and management as well about
the production and manufacturing

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 To confirm the measurement and fabric requirements
 To make perfection in the consumption
 To make the perfection in the pattern and marker

2.2 PRE PRODUCTION ACTIVITIES /SAMPLING PROCESS

 The Merchandiser receives the Tech-pack/indent.

 After this process the feasibility study is done which includes seeing if the
production can be actually done, is the quantity production friendly or not, the
factors like capacity and plant area come into the picture.
 After this careful analysis , the sampling process starts, the first sample is the
mock sample and required approvals are received.
 The first sample made is the Proto sample which doesn’t have to have the exact
fit. It is just for communication purpose. It can have alternative fabric as well as
trims (5-10 samples)
 Meanwhile the SMV calculation is done using the VAS software which is a
database of all operations and an operation bulletin is prepared.
 The development sampling is made with measurements.
 Pattern making is done using CAD that is Rich peace software and markers are
made and ready to put on the lays for cutting.
 After this, one of the important samples i.e. fit samples are made which have the
exact and precise measurements.
 It has to be made 1 or 2 times as after its made and sent to the buyer for
approval, it may come back with comments after which the revised fit sample is
made and finally approved.
 After this Salesman sample (SMS), about 200 of them and depending on the
sales .After this process the size set sample is made in about 5-7 jump sizes.
 After this process the PP or pre-production sample is made in the actual
production line. The sample is made with actual trims and fabric .This sample is
important as the operators have to know what they will be stitching and how much
time it will take.
 The PP sample is then sent to the buyer, in case there are any comments, it is
discussed in the pre-production meeting, where all the line managers, QAs, the

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 production managers as well as merchants sit together and discuss about the
following :-
 Construction details of the garment.
 To identify problems before production and ways to solve the problems if they
arise.
 The bible for discussion is the production file, as it contains all the details of
the garments.
 After this stage the bulk production starts once all the materials are in-house.

2.3 TYPES OF SAMPLES

1. PROTO SAMPLE

It is the reflection of the first tech-pack received from the buyer. The sample
is sent to the buyer for the design approval. Proto sample is made in the
base size. Styling is important. The comments and second tech pack is sent
back referring changes in the sample.

2. FIT SAMPLE

The comments are received regarding the shape, size and fullness. The
sample is checked for fit on body forms. It is made in exact fabric, though
print maybe different, since the drape and fit are to be checked.

3. SECOND FIT SAMPLE

It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few changes according to
comments received from the buyer. Again a third or fourth fit sample may
be required to be made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed
along with all the specifications.

4. PRE-PRODUCTION/SEALER SAMPLE

This sample is known as the bible of production. It is done for the base
size of any one colour and actual fabric and actual trims are used.

5. SIZE-SET SAMPLE

The sample is made in actual fabric and trims in all sizes and is sent to the
buyer for approval.

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 6. TOP OF PRODUCTION (TOP) SAMPLE

It is the best sample from first of bulk production.

7. SALESMAN SAMPLE

It is made for the buyer to find out the opinion of the store owners whether
the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that product.

2.4 PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT

2.4.1 Pattern Making Process

The pattern maker in the sample room is given the tech pack for his pattern making
process. The pattern maker uses the Rich peace CAD system in his pattern making
process. All the details need to create the patterns is included in the tech pack and
there is a sketch or a photo of a garment where specifications are mentioned. He has
to create these patterns according to the buyer requested specifications.

2.4.2 Marker Planning

The created pattern by the pattern maker is sent to the marker planner for marker
drawing process. The marker planner in the sample room has to prepare markers for
costing and the ordering only.

 The pattern making or centralised CAD department is present in the warehouse.

Everything from pattern making to grading happens here and the software used is
Richpeace.
 The CAD department is responsible for regular updation of patterns if required and
it is the department which creates the most important bulk pattern for bulk
production and gives it to the factory

2.5 IMPORTANT NOTES

Since the lead time is less, therefore any delay at any stage can delay the entire
order.The operators in the sampling department are very experienced and highly
skilled. They are explained the construction of any new sample by the pattern master

and the supervisor.
IT plays a crucial role in the merchandising department. All information regarding the
order status are fed into the ERP. This facilitates smooth flow in the department.

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3. WAREHOUSE
3.1 INTRODUCTION
A warehouse is a planned space for the storage and handling of goods and material.
In general, warehouses are focal points for product and information flow between
sources of supply and beneficiaries.
Aquarelle is having a centralised warehouse. Fabric rolls and trims are received for
and transported to all other units from here. It has two sections, one is for the fabric
rolls storage and another section is for trims and accessories storage.
When the fabric rolls are received they are first inspected and then distributed to the
respective units. There are 4 inspection machines for this purpose, in which 4 point
system is being followed.
Meanwhile the bulk fabric and trims come in and the inspection takes place,trims and
fabric are stored in different racks. There are different racks for keeping the rolls
which have been inspected and for which the inspection is pending.
There are mapping boards for locating the fabric rolls as well as trims.
The boards consist the following information
 Colour code- Red for inspection rejected
Green for inspection passed
Orange for inspection pending
 Rack number
 Style
 Colour
 Quantity
 Remarks

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 Fig: Layout for Warehouse

3.2 INSPECTION PROCESS

 Fabric is in-house after which swatches are cut and the according to specifications
the fabric goes for wash or non-wash programmes.
 In the wash process, the fabric is cut into two equal parts after which one set is
sent for washing and shrinkage test and other set for CSV (centre to selvedge
variation) is checked after wash and report is prepared and sent to merchandiser
for approval.
 After the process the shade band is observed and analysed using the light box
 The centre to selvedge colour variation is analysed for the fabric in which fabric is
divided into five parts and arranged in an order and stitched together and colour
variations are observed using a grey scale and recorded.
 The width measurement is then done
 After this process, inspection is done, the machine is run at 10-12 m.p.m speed
and all the rolls are inspected following the four point system.
 The defects warp wise and weft wise are given penalty points as follows :-
DEFECT LENGTH POINTS
Up to 3” 1
3-6’’ 2
6-9” 3
Above 9” 4

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 No. of Points x 3600
No. of Penalty Point = -----------------------------------------------------------
Quantity Inspected (in yards) x Width (in yards)

 Stickers are placed at the defect points

 The summary report is generated and decision to accept or reject, it is taken by
the head of RMQA
 FOR TRIMS:
 The trims like buttons, poly bags, hand tags, labels and threads are analysed
according to the specification sheets.

3.3 DETAILED PROCESS FLOW

 Receipt of trims consignment in materials department.

 PO and packing list is collected from materials department.
 Lab tests are done and trims card is sent to the merchandisers purchase officer
for approval.
 Inspection/counting is done
 Samples are picked for inspection as per AQL rules and it is done as per rules.
 The lab test report is checked and if doesn’t meet standards then the mill has to
wait for further instructions.
 If it is passed then inspection is done and the report is prepared if it passes
inspection,if inspection fails then 100% inspection is done.
 If that fails then the trim lot is rejected.

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4. COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN (CAD) DEPARTMENT

4.1 INTRODUCTION

Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and
related jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for pattern
making, Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.

In Aquarelle India, the CAD software used for Patterns making and manipulation is
CAD provided by company RICHPEACE.

Patterns are manually made at the sampling unit and are used to make sample
garment and when sample garments are approved then only the patterns are
approved for the Bulk production part. Also, they store the database of previous style
patterns and many of the times the only modify the patterns according to need to
make patterns for new style.

4.2 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE

 When approved for Bulk production the patterns, the soft copy and the Hard
copy i.e. the printed ones Both are transferred from the sampling unit to the
main production unit for Bulk production.
 Once patterns are in-house, the marker making department uses the Rich
peace software to make the markers. The markers can be from 2 way to 8
way depending on the style. This software also generates the cut plan for
different types of fabrics. Also, small settings can be adjusted according to the
requirements and to suite the available machinery in the company.
 Example-In case of solid fabric the gap between patterns must be 5 mm and
between checks it should be 5-6 mm which all can be adjusted in the
software.
 In case of checks the fabric is cut by the CAD person and from the available
rolls and the repeat size is measured manually and then only according to the
repeat size the patterns are arranged in a spread.
 The patterns are placed and aligned and marker is prepared sometimes
automatically and sometimes manually. The automatic prepared one has less

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 efficiency and thus the spread must be arranged manually to get a better
efficiency which is done at the production unit of Aquarelle by the concerned
person. (Mr. Mohan)
 After completion of marker the approval is taken from the concerned authority
and the marker is printed by the plotter present of the same company i.e. of
Rich peace and the plotter is Rich peace Magic Ink Jet Plotter. For accuracy
purpose the plotter is calibrated every Monday and is checked and approved
by a process auditor for any deflection from the standards. The plotters use
ink jet technology and is a four-header machine but here only two ink jet
headers were attached. One ink heads last for around one month as said and
must be refilled every month. One head can be refilled only thrice and after
that the head should be replaced by new one. The machine prints 2 inches in
one full horizontal go. The features are-
 Stable and high speed printing, 140 ㎡/h maximum.
 The unique font & back paper-feeding structure suitable for varieties of paper.
 Original Hewlett Packard HP45 ink cartridges, low cost and easy to replace.
 Servo motor system which could improve the printing precision.
 Automatically alarm when paper jam or runs out.

4.3 MACHINERY DETAILS

FIG: RPGP-MJ/4 320 Plotter and details

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 FIG: RPGP-MJ/4 320 Plotter and details

RPGP-MJ/4 320
SPECS\MODEL

Max. Plotting Width

3250
(mm)

Max. Paper Width (mm) 3300

Cartridges No. 2.4

Paper Feed System Automatic Feeding

Max. Paper Weight (kg) 35

72 square meters per hour(two

cartridges),
Max. Plotting Speed
140 square meters per hour (four
cartridges)

Ink Box Type HP45 ink cartridge

Plot Precision (mm) 0.025

Paper (gm) 30-120

Interface USB, network cable (RJ-45)

Motor Type Servo motor

Data Format HPGL

Table: specifications of Plotter by RICHPEACE

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4.4 CAD SOFTWARE:

In Aquarelle India, the CAD software used for Patterns making and manipulation is
CAD provided by company RICHPEACE.

This is a very user-friendly software and has many tools present for pattern making.
Few of the most used tools are: -

 Move and rotate command.

 Transfer dart command
 Grading tool.
 Symmetry adjust tool
 Notch placement and fixation
 Status bar which tells whether the marker is ready or not.
 Equal height grade
 Efficiency of the spread.
 Length of spread
 Printing options
 Repeat size setting and Duplication commands.

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 Fig: (a) marker in making using RICHPEACE

Fig: (b) patterns being graded using RICHPEACE

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5. CUTTING ROOM

5.1 INTRODUCTION

Cutting room is an extremely important section in the garment manufacturing process

which has a major impact on the profitability of the business. The importance of the
efficient management of the cutting room in garment manufacturing process is
unmatched because:

 Cutting room being the feeding point to the factory has massive impact on all
the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc.
 Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensure smooth flow of
work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the
available resources.
 Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to
the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a
huge affect on the margins of the orders.
 Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation
of quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in cutting process can
result in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.

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5.2 LAYOUT OF CUTTING ROOM

Fig: Layout for Cutting room

The Cutting floor at Aquarelle India includes the following departments:

 The Fabric Storage Area
 End bit Storage
 The Spreading & Cutting Area
 Relaying Area
 The Bundling and Ticketing Area
 End components storage

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5.3 WORK FLOW OF CUTTING ROOM

Fabric Store Department

Fabric Receipt

Laying

Cutting

Numbering

Panel Inspection

Fusing

Bundling

Issue to Sewing Department

5.4 DETAILED PROCESS FLOW

After the complete sampling and inspection processes, the fabric rolls come in from
the warehouse to the factory where it gets unloaded and stored in segregated form
as per the shade variation and the shrinkage variation. Whenever the fabric roll is
received it is checked for stretchability, and if there any scope of it specified in
FCR report then it is left for relaxation a day prior to spreading. The marker planning

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and rearranging starts in the marker specified by the warehouse, if any scope for
increased efficiency of marker is found then necessary changes are implemented.

ROLL RECEIVED

Factory planning sends the Cutting Requisition Slip to the warehouse via E-mail in
order to dispatch the fabric roll along with the FCR (Fabric Control Report) three days
prior to PCD (Plan Cut Date). At the same time, the cutting requisition slip is shared
with central CAD so that they can send CAD marker to CAD department of factory.
Warehouse cross checks the slip with the loading plan and sends the rolls to factory
via factory daily vehicle along with DC (Dispatch Chelan) and list of loaded rolls with
roll numbers, customer name and style number. The vehicle is checked by the
security with DC and roll list. Unloading is done by the cutting spreaders (2-3) and
one security who matches the roll number. The rolls are kept on storage racks
mentioning customer name and style number.

5.4.1 SPREADING

As per the lay report given, specific fabric rolls are taken up for spreading. Spreading
involves laying the fabric as per the given length in meters. Table planning is done at
the starting and process is executed as per the plan.
Brown paper was laid and taped before spreading for all fabrics in both types of
spreading. This was to protect the fabric from rough spots on the table surface. It
also enabled the spread to be moved as required (due to low friction) and also it
prevented the lower plies from distortion by straight knife while cutting. Two
operators could carry out the work involved in manual spreading.

In manual spreading, one operator pulled the fabric from roll and then the two of
them took this fabric to the required length (of spread). On reaching the required
length, they aligned the edges and placed a weight on it. Both these operators return
back and while balancing the fabric and on reaching balance the fabric near the roll
and in the end cut the fabric with scissors or end cutter.

The spreading process is followed by placement of the marker on the top ply.
To secure the marker on the lay, it was torn at different places and a tape was put
there.

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5.4.1a INFORMATION FLOW FOR SPREADING

Fabric is to be received from fabric store department along with following details:

 Usable fabric width

 Colour /shade code
 Length of rolls

Spreading operator is to receive lay report consisting of following details:

• Purchase Order
• Style Number
• Lay Number
• Lay method –Face up / Face to face
• Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing
• Colour / Shade
• Lot quantity
• Marker name
• Marker length
• Lay length
• Usable fabric width
• No of plies to be spread
• Consumption

FCR report is referred to decide which roll to be picked as per their shrinkage. The
spreaders first stick the paper and then spread the first lay 3 cm more than the
decided lay. The marker is kept and checked again, once approved, the layering is
done. After, layering the Lay Sheet/ min using report is updated by spreaders taking
reference from FCR and Supervisor notebook. The lay sheet is sent to the CAD room
for bundle sheet.
• Roll reference number
• Fabric roll width
• Fabric usable width
• Fabric roll length
• Colour /shade code

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 • Usage in meters
• Balance quantity

5.4.1b QUALITY CONSIDERATIONS FOR SPREADING

 There were check points for inspection of spreading quality for the QCs where
they check spreading defects such as leaning, uneven tension, and
misalignment of plies, bowing, skewness, & fabric defects.
 Fabric where stripe or check matching has to be done is done along the lines
of the thread which are tied exactly perpendicular to the table length.
 For napped fabrics like corduroy, twill weave, denim, velvet, some prints &
plaid, the spreaders were instructed to take extra care while spreading and
were spread manually.
 In case of fabric defects, the fabrics were sent marked with stickers in colours
contrasting to the fabric colour. If the defect was minor it was ignored.
However in case of major defect they remove the flaw.
 In case shade variation within the roll, part with the varied shade was
removed.
 In case of narrow width fabrics, if the defect was within the roll, they aligned
the selvedge of one side while the other end across the width was left as it
was. For too many inconsistencies, the QC in charge was informed &
according to the severity of the problem, CAD marker of the shorter width was
ordered.

5.4.2 CUTTING

After fabric is layed on the table, and marker spread on it as per required garment,
marker is spread on it and all garment parts were marked, to secure the marker on
the lay, it was torn at different places and a tape was put there. Raw cutting takes
place on the same place then it is shifted to numbering; relay parts are cut, finally
parts checking takes place.
Manual cutting was done with a straight knife for all fabrics. For smaller parts like
collars, pockets, collar bands etc. blocks were cut which were then recut using a
band knife. Two cutters were involved in cutting a lay. Drill machine is used if
marking like pocket marking on front or centre marking on sleeve is required.

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Operators themselves collected the waste bits of fabric in a bin in order to prevent
the floor from getting dirty and to create enough free movable space for the cutting
knife. The cut parts were tied & shifted to respective places, bigger parts sent to
ticketing, smaller parts to band knife and then they were sent for ticketing, if
necessary, relaying and recutting was carried out. These were later dispatched to the
production floor upstairs through a lift specially meant for carrying cut parts.

5.4.2a Information Flow for cutting

Any order processing begins with the issue of a standard production file which
contains the following:
1. Order sheet
2. Bill of material
3. Size breakup ratio sheet
4. Product pack
5. Approved sample
6. Measurement spec sheet
7. Approved patterns – soft copy

RECEIPT OF FABRIC:

Cutting Department receives fabric from fabric store department along with following
details:

 Fabric defect report on the basis of 4-point fabric inspection system,

 Width of fabric for each roll,
 Face side of fabric,
 Shade band card,
 Shrinkage report,
 Colour fastness report and
 Fabric roll report
MARKER PLANNING:

Cut order planning:

Cut order planning is the most critical and important process in the cutting section.
Here, actual order size is planned into no. of lays with the objective being to achieve
the given BOM consumption. While keeping cutting costs to a minimum. The process
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works in a contradicting way. As one tries to increase the ply height by planning more
no. of plies, the consumption tends to increase. While planning with lower no. of
plies, the consumption targets can be met, but less no. of plies means more no. of
lays to cut, which means that cutting costs are increased. The planning must be
balanced keeping in mind the no. of plies and cutting cost.

1. Cut order planning is performed in combination with roll management

techniques. It is mandatory that a person executing cut order planning is trained
in marker management techniques.
2. There are 4 constrains on which the cut plan needs to be done to achieve the
dual objective of optimum consumption and optimum cost
 Fabric width
 Shrinkage
 Shade
 Roll length
3. Two types of lays are practiced
 Face- up (solid fabric for shirts , pocketing , body lining and other trims)
 Face – to – face (solid , checks and stripes for shirts )
4. Combination of sizes is worked out to achieve the best fit to achieve marker
utilization so that the consumption is primarily met. At the same time, efforts are
made to maximize the ply height to achieve optimum cutting cost.
5. Once the plan is ready, the numbering sequence generator is utilized to
predetermine the ply numbering sequence.
6. For each lay , specific fabric rolls are allotted and the basis for allotting depends
on one or a combination of the following factors:
 Width
 Shrinkage
 Share
 Roll length
 Fabric utilization
7. The generated cut plan is thoroughly checked by the authorized personal and
forwarded for marker procedure
8. Cutting department makes a marker plan after receiving following details:

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  Pattern detail from cad department
 Fabric width detail from fabric store department
 Fabric consumption from merchandising department

QUALITY REPORTS GENERATED :

Lay inspection report

Interlining report

Fusing audit report

Panel inspection report

Bundling inspection report

5.4.2 b QUALITY CONSIDERATIONS FOR CUTTING

 The QC compared the hard pattern to marker paper to ensure the accuracy of
the marker. The tolerance for this was nil.
 The cut parts from top ply & the bottom ply were matched in order to see
whether they had been cut properly. The bottom ply sometimes got distorted
due to constrained movement of the knife. In such cases the plies were later
cut with hand shears. There was also a check for ragged or uneven cutting.
The QC instructed the cutter to correct it there & then.
 The notch location was supposed to be checked by placing patterns over top
ply. The tolerance for this was +/- 1/8 of inch.

5.5 MACHINERY SPECIFICATIONS

1) Straight Knife

Specs/model Bluestreak II
MAKE EASTMAN MACHINE CO.
BLADE LENGTH 8”
WIDTH 1.25”

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CURRENT 4.2 A
VOLTS 220 V
CYCLE 50/s
R.P.M. 2850 (strokes/min)
MOTOR Phase-1
2) Band Knife

Specs/model EC-700N EC-900N

MAKE EASTMAN MACHINE CO.
BLADE SIZE 3500*10*0.45 mm 3960*10*0.45 mm
ARMLENGTH 700 mm 900 mm
CUTTING CAPACITY 180 mm 180 mm
TABLE SIZE 1500*1800 mm 1500*2100 mm
MOTOR AC 220V 750W AC 220V 750W

3) Driller 4) Spreading Table

Specs/model F974
MAKE EASTMAN MACHINE CO. LENGTH NUMBER OF MACHINES
BLADE LENGTH 8” 33 m 2
WIDTH 1.25” 15 m 2
CURRENT 4.2 A
VOLTS 220 V Width – 69.5” Height – 35.0”
CYCLE 50/s
R.P.M. 2850 (strokes/min)
MOTOR Phase-1

Table:Specifications for cutting room

equipments
From cutting department bundles are taken to kanban super market with the help of
feeding helpers and are put in bins along with process card to each bin.
Then bundles are taken to different lines with the help of feeding helpers as per
requirement.

The cutting department is responsible for cutting the lay as per the cutting plan
(marker) generated by the “Planning Department”. After cutting the panels are fused
according to the requirement.
5.6 PANEL CHECKING
3-Panel checking is done: Front, Back and Sleeve. The checking of panel is done on
the basis of weaving defect. In case of defective part, it is replaced with similar shade
and shrinkage from end bit storage. The decision is taken by supervisor; in critical
cases QAs’ (Quality Auditor) advice is also taken.

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This section provides the framework for the processes involved in cutting section and
the production management practices that are incorporated in the cutting area.
Cutting processes are regarded as the most critical process in the garment
manufacturing process. The theory behind this is that here the raw material (fabric is
given a form in the form of cut panels . this means that utmost care must be taken in
each and every process because after cutting most of the times the wrong doing
cannot be rectified.

5.7 BUNDLING AND TICKETING

Immediately after cutting, bundle sheets are generated for each lay specifying no. of
components in each bundle. First numbering is done on all pieces of one lay and
after that, according to the shade groups bundle is prepared.
In bundle sheets it is specified in which lay specific plies of which size are of which
particular shade, for example, in one lay, when bundle sheet is generated, in that
style 1M, 2L and 1XL is present then it is specifies no of plies 913-935 of size M are
in D shade group and respectively and in which bundle it will go.
Styles numbered are those on whose shell fabric ink is easily visible.
For collar and cuff ticketing is necessarily done.
The numbering is done in two ways, ink or stickers.

The type of method to be used depends upon various factors. Some of them are
listed below:

1. If the fabric is light colored, butterfly is cut with the pattern and ink method is
used.
2. In light colored fabric, parts like collar and cuff, butterfly cannot be attached as
parts involve turn and then stitch, so, stickers has to be used.
3. Some fabrics with more absorption results cannot be inked and there is a
possibility of smudging of ink.

If the fabric is multicoloured, inks cannot be used as it would not be clearly visible at
the time of matching
Next step after numbering and bundling, barcodes are generated, for all the
operations to be done on that bundle and enclosed in a pocket and sent to the
kanban supermarket to be sent to the lines after panel inspection.

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5.8 FOR STRIPED OR CHECKS FABRICS

 Firstly block cutting is done with the help of pins also known as relaying.
 Then the scissor open process is done following the feature line which is the
common line in the centre of the collar and cuff.
 After this step the ready cutting is done which is done using the band knife.
 Inspection is done after which number sealing is done.
 The process ends with bundling after which the parts reach theSupermarket.

Cutting is also a direct interface for the pattern department by way of making
markers. A lot of effort is involved in making sure that the markers are provided in the
required manner to eliminate the chances of mistakes. Effort goes into making sure
that every single details of the style is considered while marker making. That is why
cutting plays a vital role in having a correct pattern.
Cutting costs form a bulk of manufacturing costs. An automated cutting room forms
almost 50% of the stationary, spares, consumables cost. Overall, cutting costs
incorporated about 25 % to 30 % of the manufacturing expenses.

6. SEWING DEPARTMENT
6.1 INTRODUCTION

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After receiving the garment components from cutting section, all the garment parts
are joined and sewn as sequentially. All the components are sewn as per buyer’s
requirement.
Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing
industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged in vertical lines to
assemble the garments. Sequence of machines depends on the sequence of
assembling operations.
The production department is divided into three floors: A, B and C
Floor A: This floor is for manufacturing the front placket, pocket and sleeve parts.

Floor B: This floor manufactures collar, cuff and back panels.

Floor C: This is the assembly line.

6.2 PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM

The progressive bundle system (PBS): One garments operator is expected to perform the
same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it
aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation of garments production A
progressive bundle system of garments production may require a high volume of work in
process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is
needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators in garments.

Fig: Working Progressive Bundle

System

6.2.1 Advantages progressive bundle system of garments production:

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This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garments production
machines, as output from one special purpose automated garments machine may be able
to supply several garments machine operators for the next operation. Small bundles of
garments allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting
between operations

6.2.2 Disadvantages of progressive bundle system:

Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may cause major bottlenecks
within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often characteristic of this
type of garments production system. This may lead to longer throughput time, poor
quality concealed by bundles of garments, large inventory, extra handling, and
difficulty in controlling inventory of garments industry.

6.3 PROCESS FLOW

Bundles from the cutting department are received and stored in the racks. These racks
contain bundles for processing of front panels. Both left and right plackets are done here.

1. Left hem of the front placket

KANSAI multi needle chain stitch machines
No. of KANSAI machines: 7 ; No. of machines for trimming: 1

Machines are grouped together and different styles run on these machines at a time.

Work Aids used:

 Automatic trimmer at the end of every piece and automatic piece collection system
with the help of stackers.
 Folder for putting fusing, placket cut piece, front panel in one go.

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 2. Right hem of the front placket
SNLS (Single needle lock stitch) machines are used with UBT.

No. of SNLS used: 8

Work Aids used:

 Folders used for hemming the right placket. It helps in equal feeding of fabric
into the machine saving time in handling the piece by operator.
 Automatic stackers for collecting the pieces processed.

3. Button Hole Operation in left placket.

No. of button hole machines for placket button hole: 9

All button hole machines are grouped together. Different styles run on these
machines at a time.

4. These bundles are received and stored in KANBAN supermarket along with the
other cut parts for processing. The cut parts are transferred to the floor through lift to floor
A.

6.3.1 FLOOR A

LAYOUT OF FLOOR A

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No. of lines on the floor: 4 lines

Two lines are using progressive bundle system and other two are using kanban bin
system

FRONT PREPARATION

1) Label Attaching

The processed front placket bundle first goes for label attachment (wash care labels on
left placket) operation. Labels are attached on the side seam of the left placket. The no.
of labels to be attached depends upon the buyer’s requirement.
 These bundles also contain front yoke pieces which then goes for ironing operation.
 Ironing of yoke hem is done using aluminium templates.
 After this, the bundle goes for pairing/matching operation where the left and right
pieces are matched or paired together according to the serial no. mentioned on the
piece.
 After matching, yoke is attached to the front panels. Attachment is done for the both
left and right pieces in pairs.
 Bundle is passed for yoke top stitch.

2) Pocket Flap Formation:

 Bundle then passes for flap run stitch. Fusing is also attached with the main piece
during this run stitch. Automatized run stitch machine is used.
 Work aids: acrylic template/profile is used for setting the piece in place.
 Bundle goes to flap trimming machine where extra edges are trimmed and then
goes for flap turning operation.
 Then, bundle goes for flap top stitch operation

3) Flap Overlock Operation (Open Edge Overlock)

 Then the bundle goes for attachment of backing on the edges where the pocket is
going to be attached (marked on the back side of the fabric)
 Bundle goes for flap and pocket placement marking operation. Marking is done on
the main side of the fabric.
 Work aids: cardboard template fixed on the centre of the table for marking left
and right front plackets.
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  Bundle goes for flap attachment operation
Pocket pieces are received separately from the cutting department.

4) Pocket Formation Process

 Pocket is first ironed or set using JOBU machine. This is a semi automatic machine.
Uses an acrylic template which is in the shape of the pocket. Operator sets the
piece in the template then it automatically takes the pocket and heat
 set it.
 These pieces go to the ironing table for hem ironing
 Then these pockets are put in the respective bundles and go for pocket
 hemming.
 Then, for pocket attachment operation.

5) Pocket Top Stitch

6) Stay Stitch On Flap

7) BARTACK OPERATION on both flap and pocket ends and then end line inspection.

SLEEVE PRODUCTION

Two out of four lines are used. KANBAN system is followed in these lines. Bundles are
filled in the KANBAN bins. These bins then move in the line unidirectionally. Each bin
contains one bundle to be processed and after doing the bundle the operator moves the
bin to the next operator for the next operation to be done.

Each bin has a number and bundles are put according to the no. on the bin i.e. the bundle
number and the bin number should match. This helps in easy tracking of the bundles.

Fig: Bin system

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Cut sleeve parts are received from the KANBAN SUPER MARKET. Bundles consist of
both left and right sleeves with the placket cut parts.

1) Bind and tack sleeve

Work aids:

 stacker for holding the bundle

 Folder for binding operation. Operator feeds the sleeve and cut fabric piece into the
folder and the seam is formed.

Then the operator moves the bin forward for the placket attachment operation

2) Sleeve placket

Plackets are ironed/set either manually or with the help of two types of machines.

 Manually: with iron and use of templates for placket

 1sttype of machine (NGAI SHING): sets the placket itself once the operator feeds
the cut pieces. Both left and right cut parts are fed together. It uses vacuum suction
system and a laser light kept at 90 degrees for reference for placing the cut parts.
The processed pieces can be collected at the end of every bundle.

 2nd type of machine: it uses conveyor belt system. The operator feeds the cut
pieces to the two folders attached to the machine. The pieces pass in between the
hot belts which sets it in the shape in which it was fed through the folders and then
pieces are collected after the process.

Fig: Alternatives for Sleeve placket iron

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3) Set sleeve placket

Work aids: separate shelves for keeping the left and right sleeves

4)Pleat formation

5) Sleeve placket button hole formation

6) Sleeve placket bartack

7) End line inspection

8) Dispatched to kanban bin storage

6.3.2 FLOOR B

LAYOUT

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This department involves production of back, collar and cuff garment pieces in a
progressive bundle system. Cut parts from the cutting room are brought to this floor from
the kanban storage area by the feeding helpers with the help of kanban trolleys. The
trolleys are fed serial-wise to each of the lines. There are four lines on this floor, involving
separate lines for back, collar and cuff operations. Out of the four lines, three lines are
working with kanban bin system and one line follows progressive bundle system.

THE COMPLETE PROCESS

• All the bundles of back, collar and cuff parts are brought to the kanban storage
area from the cutting section, where these bundles are arranged serially in
separate bins for back, collar and cuff respectively.
• All the arranged bundles are then fed to the floor in kanban trolleys by the feeding
helpers, at the beginning of each line.
• After this, the bundles are moved progressively from operation to operation in the
lines.

• Few operators are provided with the bundle sheets in order to keep a timely record
of the bundles completed.

PROCESS FLOW FOR BACK PIECES

SET LABEL

PREPARE PLEAT AND DART

SET YOKE

TOP STITCH YOKE

END LINE INSPECTION

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NON-STANDARD COMPONENTS OF BACK OPERATIONS:
• Pleat
• Loop
• Dart
• Full length pleat
• Sided pleat
• Shoulder dart and back dart
• Zig zag stitch
• Top stitch

PROCESS FLOW FOR COLLAR PIECES

RUN COLLAR

TRIM COLLAR

COLLAR PRESSING AND TURNING

TOP STITCH COLLAR

LUNA TRIM OPERATION

COLLAR STAY STITCH

NECKBAND HEMMING

TRIM NECKBAND

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 INSERT COLLAR

PICK TURN

TRIM BASE

COLLAR MARKING

END LINE INSPECTION

NON-STANDARD COMPONENTS OF COLLAR OPERATIONS:

• Collar label attach

• Button hole
• Button hole loop
• Button hole patch
• Collar tape
• Hemband tape
• Chain stitch
• Saddle stitch
• Neckband patch
• Zig-zag stitch

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PROCESS FLOW FOR CUFF PIECES

HEM CUFF

RUN CUFF

TRIM CUFF

TURN CUFF

PRESS CUFF

CUFF TOP STITCH

END LINE INSPECTION

NON-STANDARD COMPONENTS OF CUFF OPERATIONS:

• Chain stitch
• Saddle stitch
• Cuff tape
• Hem patch

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 6.3 WORKAIDS, TEMPLATES AND MACHINES USED
 Automated Machine Used For Collar Top Stitch- The machine is automated in
such a way so as to stop automatically at the turning points in a collar. This
helps in reducing skip stitches and defects and also increases productivity and
operator time. MAKE: PFAFF.

Fig: PFAFF automated machine

 Paper Template Used For Ironing Back Pleat- An in-house developed paper
template is used by the ironers to heat set the back pleat during ironing. The
template is inserted in the pleat and the back piece is hence ironed after which
the template is removed and the gets set

 Luna Trim Machine- A machine known as Luna Trim is used to trim the collar
base after the top stitch operation. This is done to prevent fraying of the collar
base as the machine has a zig-zag knife.

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 Fig: Luna trim machine

 Acrylic Template- For collar and cuff run stitch operations an in-house
developed acrylic template is used. Also instead of the pressure foot, rollers
are attached for easy movement of the flapped acrylic sheet.

 Folder For Back Pleat- Back pieces are fed in a folder which prepares the
back pleat

 Foam Template And Folder For Insert Collar Operation- For insert collar
operation (attaching collar with neckband) a foam template is placed at both
the neckband curves for proper alignment of the stitch after which the piece is
fed in the folder for guided stitching.

 Folder For Back Loop Preparation- Strips for back loop are fed through a in-
house developed folder which prepares the seam for the loop after which the
operator cuts the loops according to the side.

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 Collar/Cuff Turning And Pressing Machine- With the help of this machine the
operator is able to trim, turn and press two collar/cuff pieces at a time. machine has
vastly reduced manpower and increased productivity.

Fig: Collar/cuff turning and pressing machine

• NECK BAND/CUFF TURNING- For neckband/cuff turning clamp like work aid is
used which eases the turning of neckband/cuff and also improves productivity.

Fig: work aid used for turning operation

• Work aids like side bins, detachable rod, racks, side stools, trolleys, etc. are used
throughout the floor which provide better work environment for the operators and
also help in increasing productivity of the floor with less waste of time.

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7. ASSEMBLY
This is the department in which all the cut parts from sub assembly are finally
assembled into a garment .The Assembly floor in Aquarelle has about 9 assembly
lines and the production system followed here is the UPS or unit production system.

7.1 LAYOUT

7.2 UPS SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION

In an Unit production system, garment components are clamped in a hanger and the
hanger moves on an overhead rail. In the hanger components of a single piece is
clapped. So this is also one kind of single-piece-flow system.

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7.2.1 THE ESSENTIAL FEATURES OF THIS TYPE OF SYSTEM ARE:
1. The unit of production is a single garment and not bundles.
2. The garment components are manually or automatically transported from
workstation to work station according to a pre-determined sequence.
3. The work stations are so constructed that the components are presented as close
as possible to the operator's left hand in order to reduce the amount of movement
required to grasp and position and component to be sewn.

7.3 THE COMPLETE PROCESS

 Firstly the bundles with components are transported from the front and back
sections to the assembly areas,the medium being the matching centre or Kanban
storage area.
 The bundles are placed on the feeding table ,where the feeder helper will
arrange the parts of the bundle and place them onto the hanger with five
divisions i.e. five parts which are front,back,collar,cuff and sleeve.
 The feeder helper herself notes the bundle completed or started by putting a
sticker onto the production slip or bundle sheet ,so that it becomes easy to track
production.
 The hanger moves on according to the operation in the U shaped layout .
 In this production system it becomes easier to track the bottleneck and hourly
production can be derived easily.

7.4 ADVANTAGES OF UPS SYSTEM:

 Bundle handling completely eliminated.

 The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum.
 Output is recorded quite easily, eliminates the operator to register the work.
 The systems balance the work between stations.
 Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.
 Easier pickup and drop after each operation and resulted quick response time.
 Throughput time and WIP is reduced to an certain extentbetween the operations

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 7.5 DISADVANTAGES OF THE UPS SYSTEM:
 Considerations for installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment, cost of
installing, specialized training for the production system, and prevention of
downtime.
 Proper planning has to done on how to use it and the operators should have
enough training given to use it.
 Line balancing becomes a tough job and an efficient supervisor is needed to
handle it.
 A bottleneck operation can pose a problem as it increases WIP and also halts
production.

7.6 MATCHING SECTION:

Before the actual process flow starts in the assembly line, the bundles have to be
brought from the matching centre,this is the area where all the parts from front and back
section are kept .In the matching centre the pigeon hole rack system concept is
followed in which bundles are kept with a numbering system,with which it becomes
easier to detect which bundles are being taken out and which bundle is coming in
.Regular reports are made of these data.

7.7 THE PROCESS FLOW IN THE ASSEMBLY LINE

 The first process after feeding is shoulder attachment of front and back.
 After this process shoulder topstitch operation is done, whether it is done or not
depends on the buyer’s specification.
 The operation which commences is the collar attachment operation.
 The operation after this process is the Collar finishing operation and comes in
the CTQ or critical to quality category.
 The sleeve is attached.
 Topstitch of the armhole is done.
 After this operation the side seam is attached using the FOA or feed of arm
machine.
 The trimming placket tail is done and marking for cuff is done
 The bottom hem operation is performed
 The cuffs are attached.

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  Cuff edge stitch is done.
 The inspection is done finally and the defects are reported and are reworked on.

7.8 THE MACHINES AND FOLDERS USED FOR EACH OF THE OPERATIONS:

Shoulder attach and topstitch,folder and guides used:

 It is either done manually without using a folder, but using a guide,which is

known as the T guide which makes sure that the stitch line is being followed or
deviated from.
 The folder can also be used which is fabricated to form the bound seam.
 This folder used is a multipurpose folder which helps in attachment as well as
topstitch of the shoulder

Machine used–SNLS
Sleeve attach, folders used

 The folder used is fabricated in such a way that it reduces puckering of fabric
controls the feeding in a better manner.
Machine used - DNCS or SNCS

Side seam, folders and guides used

 There is a folder fabricated in such a way that lap fell seam can be formed easily
and it also has a pneumatic air supply system to push away extra threads inside in
case a lot of fraying is there.
Machine used- Feed of arm machine.

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Bottom hem, folders and guides used

 There is a folder used known as the swing hemmer, it is useful so that operation is
not stopped at the joint area .The pneumatic air supply is operation as used in this
well.
 Also there is a normal folder used to avoid raw edge formation.
Machine used -SNLS

Fig: swing hemmer

Cuff attach, folders and guides used

 There is a guide used in the cuff setting known as the cuff setter, it helps the cuff to
stay in place, in order to prevent down stitch.
Machine used-SNLS MACHINE.

After this processes there is end line inspection done, the defects per hour are noted
and written down in an report with help of the tally system and garments with defects
are sent back and reworked upon. The other work aids used are DST or double side
tapes used to make sure stitch line is followed.

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8. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
In production department garments are stitched by sewing machines. Stitched
garments are finished in the finishing department. Finishing activities are performed
prior packing garments into poly bags. The major activities of a finishing department
include thread trimming, checking garments and ironing. The folding, tagging and
packing of garments are done in the packing section in the finishing department. This
post covers major functions of finishing department.

8.1 LAYOUT

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8.2 THE PROCESS FLOW IN THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Trim and exam process is done in the beginning and it is a 14 step process. The
method of it is as followed :-

Washing

Button Marking

Button Attach

Trim and examine

Thread suction

Full Body Ironing

Front Placket Ironing

Shirt Button Up

Final Inspection

Measurement Check

Tagging

Folding

Final Press

Bagging

Barrier audit

Cartoning

Washing

After Dispatch from assembly, the garment pieces are kept for washing which is
outsourced. There are three washing units. The garments are loaded as per the
loading plan given by factory planner to dispatch centre. The transporter enters the
security gate and the security guard notes the vehicle number and scans the identity.
The loading is done by security guard; he counts and loads the truck.

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First Bundle Check

The first bundle of approximately 20-30 garments is checked in the finishing section
where shade, size and shrinkage are the basic parameters to be checked. The work
flow of this operation is as follows:

Button Marking

The button marking is done via manual workers where pattern is pasted on the table
and the operator places the garment on the pattern and marks the points using white
pencil. The operation is time consuming and is considered as non-value added
activity.

Button Attaching

The button attaching is done on the front placket, cuff and collar, also for some styles
on the pockets as well. The button attaching is done by 20 operators.

Trim and Examine

In this operation the operator trims the unwanted protruding thread and checks for
washing, sewing, darning defects.

Check points in Trim and Examine:

1. Full collar check including button hole and button.

2. Yoke check, shoulder stitch checking.
3. Centre front placket, Button hole, Pocket checked.
4. Bottom hemming checked.
5. Left side seam and cuff bottom hem.
6. Sleeve placket Binding and sleeve check

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 7. Armhole stitch checking
8. Back check
9. Redo with the shirt inside out.

Based on the type of defect, the pieces are kept on different colored racks as:

S Color of the Significance

no. Rack
1. Blue Washing Defect
2. Red Sewing defect
3. Black Darning defect
4. Green Pass pieces

All the pieces from different racks are sent to respective places and all the pass
pieces are sent to the next operation which is thread suction.

Thread Suction

The pass pieces are then sent to thread suction machine. The machine sucks all the
loose threads which are there on the garment to make them ready for ironing.

Ironing

The basic iron box is used for ironing the garment, the pieces are moved in single lot,
and no bundle is made from this operation onwards. The operator irons the shirt and
hangs it on the UPS conveyor.

Button Up

The operator stands at the place where the shirts are being hanged after ironing in
between the two lines and button up the shirt. The operator keeps on moving from
one iron table to another for buttoning up. Each line has one operator for button up
operation.

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Final Inspection

The garment is inspected finally w.r.t. sewing defect on the critical areas of the
garment. Any defect found at this stage of the garment is indicated using a small
arrow sticker and kept in the rejected pile.

Measurement Check

After the final inspection, the measurement check is done w.r.t. sleeve, front placket,
back panel and chest. If the measurement is correct, it is passed for tagging, else,
kept in the `d pile.

Tagging

The operator stands next to the measurement table and attaches the tag on the
garment without taking it put from the hanger.

Folding

Folding is done in the traditional way using a template of the shirt. The operator
attaches the clips and collar stand (but for very few styles) depending upon the buyer
requirements. The folding is done as per the specified instructions of the buyer and if
not given, the standard process of the company is used.

Bagging

Once the pieces are folded, they are kept in the polybags. The polybags generally
have name of the buyer and type of the polybag depends upon the requirements
raised by the buyer.

8.3 CSO AUDIT

Once the bagging is done and pieces are readily loaded to be cartooned, the CSO
(Customer Satisfaction Officer) picks 3-4 samples from each trolley and checks the
garment. This is the done as buyer raised requirement. If in case, a piece has some
defects, it is rejected and the entire lot is checked again.

8.3.1 FUNCTIONS OF CSO:

 He does the inspection process from cut to pack.

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 He goes through the Fabric process report and garment process report and
passes it after which bulk cutting takes place.
 The CSO is the person to review the techpack and production file and see if there
is a deviation from it.
 He reviews the trim card and finally trims are issued.
 He is an active participant in the pre-production meetings and inspects the first
bundle of garments during actual production process.
 He also inspects washing of pieces, firstly 50 pieces are sent for washing and it is
checked if there is change in measurement or not ,if shade variation is present ,if
these are not present then bulk washing can be done.
 Before the packing process he makes sure whether all tags and labels are
according to the country wise approval
 After this the packing list is prepared and internal auditing of cartons starts
 Initially 500 pieces are inspected out of which if 25 pieces are okay then the carton
is passed.

In this inspection the following checkpoints are:-

 Polybags
 Labels
 Number of tags attached.
 Quality parameters.
 Tissue paper used for packing
Defects are checked .If one defect is present then the lot is passed, if more than one
defect is present it is reworked upon. There is a needle detector present to check if
any needle piece is stuck to the garment

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8.4 Cartoning section

Cartoning is done in two ways:

1. For Levi’s brand

2. For all brands

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8.4.1 Flow Chart of Packing Section:

Make shipping mark according to P/O, Spread sheet

↓
Approve from buyer
↓
Carton measurement confirm from Q.C dept
↓
Sample make (carton)
↓
Re-approved from buyer
↓
Ensure net and gross weight
↓
Go to bulk production
↓
Complete the carton with garment

Cartons are made according to buyer instruction and length wise it contains the
buyer name, widthwise it contain the measurement, net & gross weight. Carton
contain the information are printed by screen print style.

Fig: packed orders

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9. MISCELLANEOUS OTHER DEPARTMENTS

9.1 QUALITY ASSURANCE

The quality assurance section is assigned to maintain consistency for uniform quality
of the material in process & various stages of garment manufacturing. In the garment
industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of final finished garment.

9.1.1 Process Flow Chart of Quality Assurance Department

Accessoires check
↓
Fabric inspection
↓
Shade segregation
↓
Shrinkage test
↓
Size set check
↓
Marker check
↓
Spreading quality assurance
↓
Cutting quality assurance
↓
Hard pattern check
↓
Pre-production meeting
↓
General instruction
↓
Inspector layout
↓
In process audit
↓
Two time process check
↓
Two time machine check
↓
Two time accessories check
↓
Weekly in process summary
↓
100% in line process check

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 ↓
Sewing final check
↓
Hourly final audit with measurement
↓
Finishing 100% check
↓
Button pulls check
↓
Hourly final audit
↓
Broken needle check
↓
Accessories compliance
↓
Every final audit
↓
Pre-final inspection
↓
Ready for final inspection
↓
Shipment

9.1.2 Department Wise Quality Check Points

Fabric Store- In the fabric store fabric is being checked before issuing it to cutting
department. In general not all the fabric is checked. Usually 10% of fabrics are
checked for good fabric suppliers. For power loom fabric and printed fabric 100%
checking is done. Fabrics are checked in flat table, flat table with light box or on
fabric checking machine. 4 point system for fabric inspection is used to measure the
quality level of the incoming fabric.

Trim & accessories- Trims quality is also very important for having a quality
garment. Trims inspection is done randomly against the given standards, like color
matching. But for trims and accessories quantity checking is essential.

Cutting Room- It is said that cutting is the heart of production. If cutting is done well
then chances of occurring defects in the following processes comes down. In cutting
room, check points are –
i) marker checking

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ii) cut part audit
iii) bundle checking.

Sewing Department- Checkpoints in the sewing departments are as following:-

• Inline inspection: In assembly line generally check pints are kept for the critical
operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially stitched
garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the next process. This type
of checking is used for high value garment.
• Roaming inspection: In this case checkers roam around the line and randomly
check pieces at each operation.
• End of line inspection or table checking: A checker checks completely stitched
garment at the end of the line. 100% checking is done here,
• Audit of the checked pieces: Very few manufacturers follow this audit
procedure but it is very essential checkpoint to assure that only 100%
inspected garment are sent to finishing from sewing department. And all
defective pieces are repaired before sending to finishing.

Finishing Department- Check points in finishing department consists:-

• Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment at

finishing room is known as initial finishing.
• Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and
passed for tagging and packing.
• Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality
control team, do audit of packed garments. This process is carried out to
ensure that before handing over shipment to buyer QC.

If the completed work is being checked at each process and defective pieces are
corrected before handing to the next process than at the end of production there is
very little chance to have a defective at final inspection stage.

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9.2 TRIMS STORE

9.2.1 Process Flow

The working of the Trims department is shown as below:

Receipt of the BOM from the Merchandising department

Checks as per the purchase order or the bill of material

Quality checks (If the produced is rejected during the quality check than it is sent
back to the suppliers)

Quality verification is made as per the Invoice

Assigned received material to the concerned purchase order or the orders

Moved to the concerned location in the store

When the cutting slips as per the cutting or planning department instruction, the kits
are prepared for issue as per BOM/ cut quantity.

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 Make the necessary entries the materials are issued in books/ system

In any rework/ rejection or approval

Issue extra material

9.3 THE INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

The industrial engineering department is the driving force of any apparel industry and
they are responsible for all the activities of the factory. there is one head IE, who has
the responsibility of handling all the units, one factory head IE, under him 4 assistant
IEs are there.

The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer.
Once the customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order
to the industrial engineering department for the processing.

The main functions of the IE department are:-

 Calculate SAM of the garment.
 Calculate the work measurement of each order.
 To advice production department on garment SAM and line layout.
 To calculate line efficiency and operators efficiency
 To ensure regular grade change of the operators.
 Doing the time and method study.
 Proper line balancing.
 Check for work aids and compliances
 Preparation of the incentive scheme.
 The respective line IEs should update the respective quality

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 sheet of the operators which contains a graphical representation of percentage
efficiency and right first time .

10. OTHER TOOLS, TECHNIQUES AND SOFTWARES IN PRACTICE

10.1 VAS SOFTWARE

This is a database used by Aquarelle which gives details about the following:-

 This software has various phases.

 PHASE 1-Video data analysis and SMV calculation.
 PHASE 2-OB generation and Thread CU calculation.
 PHASE 3- Skill matrix
 Focussed training on the use of VAS.
 SMV of each operation is derived.
 CU iethe thread calculation for each garment is derived using appropriate
formulae.
 Also the needle and bobbin ratios for each operation are given in the software
 The operation breakdown format is there in the software according to Aquarelle
standards.
 Video data analysis is done to find out elapsed time for each operation.
 The operation bulletin with SME is derived and given to merchandiser for costing.
 The target for the operations is also calculated based on SMV of standard
operations.
 The software also contains the skill matrix of each operator.
 There are a few interesting features like the Double screen and four screen
options in order to compare two operations and their SMVs .


Fig: Interface for VAS

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10.2 KANBAN

Kanban is Japanese for “visual signal” or “card.” Toyota line-workers used a kanban
(i.e., an actual card) to signal steps in their manufacturing process. The system’s
highly visual nature allowed teams to communicate more easily on what work
needed to be done and when. It also standardized cues and refined processes,
which helped to reduce waste and maximize value.

Kanban is gaining traction as a way to smoothly implement Agile and Lean

management methods in tech and non-tech companies around the world.
Throughout this fresh take on Toyota’s manufacturing process, Kanban’s core
elements have remained rooted in the principles below. (Note: There are many ways
to define Kanban. Our intent in listing the core elements in this manner is not to
introduce a new definition but to distill the common principles.)

1. Visualize Work

By creating a visual model of your work and workflow, you can observe the flow of
work moving through your Kanban system. Making the work visible along with
blockers, bottlenecks and queues instantly leads to increased communication and
collaboration.

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 VISUAL CONTROL

INFORMATIVE WARNING COMPLIANCE

Double single
sided sided

Acrylic Sunboard

Pictorial Text Pictorial Text

2. Limit Work in Process

By limiting how much unfinished work is in process, you can reduce the time it takes
an item to travel through the Kanban system. You can also avoid problems caused
by task switching and reduce the need to constantly reprioritize items.

3. Focus on Flow

By using work-in-process (WIP) limits and developing team-driven policies, you can
optimize your Kanban system to improve the smooth flow of work, collect metrics to
analyze flow, and even get leading indicators of future problems by analyzing the
flow of work.

4. Continuous Improvement

Once your Kanban system is in place, it becomes the cornerstone for a culture of
continuous improvement. Teams measure their effectiveness by tracking flow,
quality, throughput, lead times and more. Experiments and analysis can change the
system to improve the team’s effectiveness.

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 10.3 KANBAN CARD SYSTEM

As Kanban emerged as a system in knowledge work, the kanban card came to

represent an individual work item. These “pieces of work” are typically displayed in
the form of sticky notes on a whiteboard that uses lanes to show the steps in a
team’s process. Each sticky note contains critical information for that piece of work,
and its placement on the whiteboard visually communicates the work item’s status
within the team’s process. From this, the modern application of kanban card was born.

Kanban cards can help teams:

 Gain a quick understanding of work item details

 Facilitate handoffs between team members as the work progresses through
different stages in the team’s process
 Document critical information
 Record important work attributes and metrics that you can use later to help
improve your workflow:

 Here in Aquarelle two Kanban systems are used, that is the Card system and
Bin system, the electronic Kanban is yet to be put into use.

 Kanban cards are a key component of Kanban and they signal the need to
move materials within a production facility or to move materials from an
outside supplier into the production facility.

 The Kanban card is, in effect, a message that signals depletion of product,
parts, or inventory. When received, the Kanban triggers replenishment of that
product, part, or inventory.

A Kanban Card typically has the following information displayed on it (IN

AQUARELLE):

 Material, part number, etc.

 External and internal supplying processes.

 Consuming process (could be sewing if parts are stitched in sewing or

finishing if parts are consumed in finishing).

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  Container Quantity (‘container’ here refers to a trolley or a bin, and the
‘quantity’ refers to the amount of stock that should be stored in the trolley or
bin).

 Supermarket Address (Supermarkets have a designated address like A1, H2,

etc.)

 Card Serial Number.

 The card colour is mostly red.

 KANBAN BOARD-This is a visual display of the Kanban cards.

 The production Kanban Cards are accumulated in the board after removing
them from empty containers (trolleys or bins) no sooner they are withdrawn by
the consuming process from the Supermarket.

 The accumulation of cards continues till a predetermined number of cards are

achieved as defined by the common authorization line.

Advantages of Using the Kanban System

There are many advantages to using the kanban system as a way to manage work,
including:

 Flexibility
 Focus on continuous delivery
 Reduction of wasted work / wasted time
 Increased productivity
 Increased efficiency
 Team members’ ability to focus

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10.4 KAIZEN

Kaizen is based on the philosophical belief that everything can be improved: Some
organizations look at a process and see that it's running fine; Organizations that
follow the principle of Kaizen see a process that can be improved. This means that
nothing is ever seen as a status quo – there are continuous efforts to improve which
result in small, often imperceptible, changes over time. These incremental changes
add up to substantial changes over the longer term, without having to go through any
radical innovation. It can be a much gentler and employee-friendly way to institute
the changes that must occur as a business grows and adapts to its changing
environment.

Understanding the Approach

Because Kaizen is more a philosophy than a specific tool, its approach is found in
many different process improvement methods ranging from Total Quality
Management (TQM), to the use of employee suggestion boxes. Under kaizen, all
employees are responsible for identifying the gaps and inefficiencies and everyone,
at every level in the organization, suggests where improvement can take place.

Kaizen aims for improvements in productivity, effectiveness, safety, and waste

reduction, and those who follow the approach often find a whole lot more in return:

 Less waste – inventory is used more efficiently as are employee skills.

 People are more satisfied – they have a direct impact on the way things are
done.
 Improved commitment – team members have more of a stake in their job and
are more inclined to commit to doing a good job.
 Improved retention – satisfied and engaged people are more likely to stay.
 Improved competitiveness – increases in efficiency tend to contribute to lower
costs and higher quality products.
 Improved consumer satisfaction – coming from higher quality products with
fewer faults.
 Improved problem solving – looking at processes from a solutions perspective
allows employees to solve problems continuously.

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 Improved teams – working together to solve problems helps build and strengthen
existing teams.
Another Japanese term associated with kaizen is muda, which means waste. Kaizen
is aimed at decreasing waste through eliminating overproduction, improving quality,
being more efficient, having less idle time, and reducing unnecessary activities. All
these translate to money savings and turn potential losses into profits.

The step by step approach under Kaizen is:-

• Problem identification

• Team formation

• Root cause analysis

• Target setting

• Finding solutions

• Implementation

• Measurement

• Horizontal deployment

10.5 5S

One of the most powerful Lean Manufacturing Tools and a cornerstone of any
successful implementation is that of 5S.

The five steps are:-

 SEITSUKE –This means to sustain the organization by proper training and
discipline.
 SEIKETSU-Standardizing all the processes and workplace.
 SEISO-Shining i.e. cleaning the workplace.
 SEITON-Sorting and organizing.
 SEIRI-Sorting and clearing.

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5S is a simple tool for organizing your workplace in a clean, efficient and safe
manner to enhance your productivity, visual management and to ensure the
introduction of standardized working.
Most of the other definitions of 5S and descriptions that I see here on the internet
concentrate heavily on the aesthetics and the efficiency gains that you achieve
through implementing 5S and neglect the real aim of 5S; the need to introduce
standard operational practices to ensure efficient, repeatable, safe ways of working.

In addition to standardised working which provides you with a stable foundation to

build all of your other improvements through implementing Lean Tools, you also
provide a highly visual workplace. One of the most important factors of 5S is that it
makes problem immediately obvious.
5S is a team run process and should be conducted by the people who work within
the area in which the principles of 5S are being applied, it is not a tool that can be
applied by an outsider onto an area without the knowledge and cooperation of the
people within it.

 5S management at AQUARELLE:

 SORT-Unwanted and wanted items

 SET IN ORDER

 SHINE-Cleaning done two times i.e. 12:25 and at 5:25 pm

 STANDARDISE-The use of hand gloves and eye guards and other

aids

 SUSTAIN-Regular Auditing

IMPLEMENTATION STRATEGY

In order for 5S to be successful, the important factor is commitment, participation and

involvement of everyone and most importantly support from the top management.
5S activities should be carried on in the following steps:-
 Visit 5S model companies for continual improvement.
 Train everyone adequately on 5S practices.
 Promote the 5S campaign

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 Plan systematic approach following the Plan-Do-Check-Act cycle.
 Practice performance measurement and reward system

Fig: 5s implementation at various places in industry

WHAT AQUARELLE AIMS TO ACHIEVE:

Pillars of Aquarelle Lean House

 Employee engagement

 TPM(Total productive maintenance)

 RFT : Quality management concept that defect prevention is more

advantageous and cost effective than defect detection
and associated rework.

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  POKAYOKE: Japanese approach to 'mistake proofing' in all aspects
of manufacturing, customer service, procurement, etc.

 It employs visual signals that make mistakes clearly stand out from the
rest, or devices that stop an assembly line or process if a part or step is
missed. Its older name is baka yoke (fool proofing).

 JIDOKA:Jidoka is one of the two pillars of the Toyota Production System

along with just-in-time. Jidoka highlights the causes of problems because
work stops immediately when a problem first occurs. This leads to
improvements in the processes that build in quality by eliminating the root
causes of defects.

 VALUE STREAM MAPPING : Value stream mapping is a lean-

management method for analyzing the current state and designing a future
state for the series of events that take a product or service from its
beginning through to the customer. At Toyota, it is known as "material and
information flow mapping".

 PVM (people value management) :operators are graded based on their

operations into three categories : A,B,C

 A: symbolises critical operations and the operator performing these

operations get greater than 14 points
 B: symbolises major operations and the operators performing these
operations get 6-13 points
 C:symbolises minor operations and the operators performing these
operations get 1-5 points

10.6 TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE

Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) is a lean manufacturing tool that seeks to

improve the reliability and efficiencies of our equipment and machines by utilizing
everyone in the organization to tackle what are known as the six big losses
measured through the performance indicator known as OEE or Overall Equipment
Effectiveness;

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 1. Breakdowns
2. Setup and Adjustment losses
3. Idling and minor stoppages
4. Reduced Speed
5. Defects and rework
6. Start-up losses

TPM is not just about implementing preventive maintenance or predictive

maintenance to prevent machines from breaking down, it is a team approach to also
improve our start-ups, our running efficiencies, and our product quality. It seeks to
continually improve our processes and equipment by constantly improving OEE
(Overall equipment effectiveness) which is a performance metric for TPM gained
through measuring the six big losses.

This Article will look at how to go about implementing a TPM Program to ensure that
you maximise your OEE and build a firm foundation upon which to build any Lean
Manufacturing initiative. Without reliable machines and processes any other
improvement initiative within lean is unlikely to find success.

Just like any other lean tool, TPM needs to be adapted and changed to the particular
needs of your organisation, the use of an expert to help with your implementation
program is highly recommended to help you avoid some of the more obvious
stumbling points within your program.

11. ACHIEVEMENTS

THE INVENTION OF JOBU MACHINE AND OTHER ACHIEVEMENTS

 In Aquarelle the machine was invented by the Maintenance manager Mr.Babu

and his team, it is a automated pocket ironing machine with productivity of
about 200 pieces.
 The machine cost is about 3 lakh with die cost just being Rs 15-30(acrylic
material).
 There have been many advantages of this machine:-
 Productivity has increased from 100 to about 200 pieces.
 Changeover time has reduced.

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  The die price is cheaper, hence it is easy to replace .Earlier the die was
around Rs7000-8000 but now it has decreased to about Rs15-30,hence this a
cost saving solution.
 It makes replacement and maintenance process less tedious.
 Aquarelle has received the EMS award and the 5S award
 They have successfully implemented Kaizen to reduce manpower

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