Introduction to Lasting

UNIT 2 INTRODUCTION TO LASTING

Structure
2.1 Introduction
Objectives

2.2 Shoe Lasts

2.3 Other Components Used in Lasting
2.3.1 Tacks, Nails and Staples
2.3.2 Toe Puffs
2.3.3 Stiffener
2.3.4 Insoles
2.3.5 Soles
2.3.6 Heels

2.4 Shape of Upper

2.5 Bottoming
2.6 Basic Methods of Lasting
2.7 Hand Lasting Tools
2.8 Hand Lasting Pulls
2.9 Summary
2.10 Key Words

2.1 INTRODUCTION
Lasting is a term related to the process involved in stretching (in some areas by
compressing) the upper material over the last and securing it. The upper will conform to
the contours of the last and when the last is removed, upper retains much of the shape.
There are many variations in the way which footwear can be made from the Lasting point
of view. These are known as lasting constructions.
The types of constructions used will often depend upon what the finished shoe is used
for. So each will demand different considerations. The methods can be divided into two
groups :
Direct Attachment
Where the soles are attached directly to the lasted upper.
Indirect Attachment
Where the soles are attached to the welt or runner, these already being attached to
the lasted upper.
Group one includes Cemented (Stuck-on) Constructions, Direct Moulded Constructions,
etc.
Group two includes Welted Constructions, Veldtschoen Constructions, etc.
The lasting department is divided into three sections :
(i) Assembly
(ii) Lasting
(iii) Bottoming 25
Hand Lasting A shoe nearly always has to be made on a last to achieve a shape to give the necessary
comfort and fit. Lasting is the process of stretching, compression of material takes place
mainly on seat area, the upper leather over the last and securing it to the insole, runner
etc., so that the upper conforms to the last contours.
The areas of the last which present the greatest difficulties in lasting are mostly those in
which the major shape changes occur. To facilitate shape retention, it is essential to apply
correct strains at certain major points.
The amount and direction of strains must be suitable to both material and the design of
the upper to help to produce good shape retention throughout the life of the shoe. Shoes
must be lasted to match in pairs so that the design of the uppers is correctly matched. It is
important that the back height will be according to specification; otherwise if the back is
too high, the shoe will rub the heel, if too low the shoe may not fit the foot as desired.
The top line of every shoe must be reasonably tight. It is essential during lasting that the
top line is pulled somewhat tight to maintain correctly the balanced top lines. If the initial
stretch is not taken out of the upper, the top line becomes loose, resulting in poorly fitting
shoes. The top line must also be correctly balanced, i.e. the outside quarter 3 mm below
the height of the inside quarter, the reason for this being the difference in the anklebone
height, or according to the specification.
Traditional hand lasting involves the use of twelve basic lasting strains, which make the
upper conform to the shape of the last. The order in which these lasting strains are taken
can vary to suit the individual situation, and the laster may modify the order, to make
sure that the upper is lasted properly. For example, if the upper is tending to the swing to
the outside then the laster will remedy this by pulling the upper from the inside first, in
other words, the laster will :
• ensure that the upper conforms to the shape of the last,
• ensure that the upper is positioned centrally on the last, and
• take care that the upper components are falling on the proper places on the
last as specified by the designer.
The operator sets lasting strains in the modern lasting machines. For quick setting up a
machine for various last shapes, upper models and sizes the latest forepart lasters have
computers which enable all the machine settings to be summoned from the computer
memory so that setting up the machine to give desired result has been automated.
However, at times the operator needs to make corrections for settings for individual
uppers.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• acquire knowledge of converting the two-dimensional upper to a
three-dimensional lasted shoe,
• explain the different components used in the shoe making process, and
• understand the various methods of lasting, the different constructions and
also the various tools and gadgets used in lasting of an upper.

2.2 SHOE LASTS

Most shoes are made to a last. The last is a foot model with dimensions and shape similar
to the anatomical foot but sufficiently different to not be exact. Shoe fit and to some
extent the last influences its durability.
“The close relationship between a man and his shoe maker was based on the shared
26 secret of the client’s measurements. The statistics of clients were never disclosed.”
Traditionally before mass production, the original shoemaker started the process by Introduction to Lasting
taking a footprint outline of the sole. He whittled or chiselled a wooden last from the
print. A last (‘least’, Old English meaning footprint) was traditionally made from wood
but are now available in metal or plastic. They are complex structures made from many
measurements (statistically determined). Lasts are not the same size and dimensions of
the anatomical foot but instead an abstract form with specific functions. It is usually
deeper in the midfoot region, has a sharp ‘feather edge’ where the upper surface meets
the bottom, is clipped in along the top line (around the ankle) and is flared over and
extended in the toe region. This provides shape, which applies appropriate tension when
the shoe distorts to contain the loaded foot. Lasts provides a working surface on which
flat leather components can be given plastic form. The physical dimensions
accommodate the foot during activity and the last contains contemporary fashion and
styles such as toe shape. To allow the last to be removed from the shoe they are often
hinged around the instep. Shoe lasts are not made to resemble feet but instead to suit the
shoe manufacture. Modern lasts are totally unlike the foot with the sole of the last, flat in
order to assist in manufacture.
This is the most important tool of shoe manufacturing process.
A Wooden Block Last

Chart Showing the Main Parts of a “Shoe Last”

• Each “shoe last” is designed for a particular heel eight, toe shape, and type of
footwear. Many styles of shoes can be made on the same shoe last, but the
toe shape and heel height will be the same for each pair made on that shoe
last.

Round Pointed Square

Cone/Instep

Toe Spring Heel Height

• If you want to have shoes with different toe shapes, then it is necessary to
create more than one pair of shoe lasts. A proper fitting pair of shoe lasts is a
solid investment, and the first step towards creating proper fitting and
fashionable footwear.
• Traditionally, shoe lasts were made of hardwoods, such as Maple or Beech.
Modern day shoe lasts are made of high density plastics, that are 100%
recyclable.
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Hand Lasting Three Different Shoes Made on the Same “Shoe Last”

Standard Hinged Last

The various other types of lasts used in the footwear industry are as follows :

The Ladies QUOIN Last

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The Slide-o-matic Lasts Introduction to Lasting

Reversed Types of Lasts

The different types of bottom plating in a last are as follows :
A = No plating
B = Heel plated last
C = Shank plated last
D = Toe and shank plated last
E = Fully plated last

A B C D E
SAQ 1
(a) What is lasting?
(b) What are the lasting constructions? What are the different methods used to
attach the sole to the upper?
(c) What types of lasts are used in the footwear industry?

2.3 OTHER COMPONENTS USED IN LASTING

2.3.1 Tacks, Nails and Staples
There are many types of tacks and nails used in the manufacture of shoes designed to suit
numerous lasting and assembling operations.

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Hand Lasting Machine tacks with special finishes to enable trouble free running in machines are
produced in various lengths to suit the material being used.

(a) (b)
Square Machine Tacks Round Machine Tack

(c) (d)
Hand Tack Heel Building Nail

(e) (f)
Screw Eclipse Nail Buttress Heel Attaching Nail

(g) (h)
Rubber Heel Nail Lightning Nail

(i)
30 Temporary Attaching Nail
The nine tacks and nails illustrated are made for the following operations : Introduction to Lasting

(i) Used for seat, side and toe lasting.

(ii) A general-purpose tack used for hand lasting sandals and repair work.
(iii) Building leather heel and heel attaching.
(iv) The inside attachment of wooden heel.
(v) The inside attachment of plastic heels.
(vi) The outside attachment of rubber heels.
(vii) The outside attachment of leather built heels.
(viii) The temporary attachment of ladies heels.
When deciding on the length of the tack required for lasting purposes, it is generally
accepted that the tack is 1 mm longer than the thickness of material or materials it has to
penetrate, to allow clenching. The tack or nail clenches when it hits the last bottom plate.
When uppers are lasted, the tacks penetrate the insole and must be turned over (clenched)
so as not to stick into the foot.
Clenching

Insole
Upper

Too Long Correct Too Short

Last

Metal
Plate

Hand lasting tacks are much sharper than machine tacks and have a much rougher finish
to help penetration while hand lasting.

Machine Tack Hand Tack

A hand tack has to be pushed by hand into the material before being driven home, a
rough sharp tack gives a temporary hold into the material, whereas a smooth machine
tack would not hold.
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Hand Lasting A smooth finish is given to machine lasting tacks to enable the tack to run easily in the
machines.
Special points and spirals are put onto heel nails to ensure correct penetration and grip
during wear.
There are numerous ways of attaching heels whether they are wood, plastic or leather.
The heels may be attached by an ordinary staple, a specially designed nail or an
ultrasonic staple.

Wire Staple

Ultrasonic Staple Special Thread Nail

Ultrasonic Heel Attaching

Ultrasonic heel attaching uses ultrasonic power to drive the staple into the heel. It
melts the plastic around the legs of the staple and allows it to penetrate through the
holes, giving a very secure attachment when the plastic cools. The ultrasonic staple
can be used on any thermoplastic heels in use today. However, it is not suitable for
leather or wooden heels.
When using heels to attach heels, a metal plate or steel washers are used to prevent
the nails pulling through the insole. These are not required when using an
ultrasonic staple.
Staples
Staples are used for various shoe making operations like :
(i) Insole attaching
(ii) Side lasting for stitch down or welted footwear.
(iii) Heel attaching in leather sole with knock on heels.
Generally two types of staples are used. They are
(i) Wire staples, and
(ii) Preformed staples.
Wire Staples
Wire staples are used while side lasting of welted footwear or Stitch down lasting.
The wire from a coil cut in a certain length by the lasting machine. Subsequently it
takes the shape of a staple pin by an in-built bending mechanism before being
driven into the lasting margin.
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 Introduction to Lasting

Twist Convergent Divergent

Preformed Staples
Preformed staples are used for insole attaching or heel attaching in case of knock
on heels. A driver fitted into the machine drives the staples. In most cases, the
staplers are pneumatically driven.

A Pneumatic Stapler

2.3.2 Toe Puffs

The function of the toe puff is basically to provide shape to the forepart of the shoe, and
in certain case, in the industrial boots, to give protection to the foot of the wearer. It is
the mean by which the shape of the last forepart is reproduced in the finished shoe, and
thus plays an important part in the appearance and the general performance of the
majority of the footwear types. The choice of the toe puff for any given footwear type is
influenced by many factors of the last shape, upper material type production methods to
be used, fashion and the views of individual customers; all must be considered before a
decision can be reached.
The basic types of toe puff are used by the footwear industry :
(i) Paint on liquids
(ii) Impregnated Fabrics
(iii) Thermoplastic (heat activated)
(iv) Solvent activated
(v) Print on Hot-Melt Resin
(vi) Extruded film (heat activated) 33
Hand Lasting Paint on Liquids
This is mostly done for the veldtschoen sandals. For this purpose, a light puff is
adequate and shellac or a celluloid solution is painted. In this case, there are
problems of contamination of the upper and the adhesion to the last.
Impregnated Fabrics
The fabric used to make these types of toe puffs are the woven, non-woven, needle
punched and stitched-bounded.
The toe puffs are in two forms. The first type is the thermo-plastic toe puff which
can be softened by heat and rendered sufficiently extensible and malleable to
accept pulling over the lasting operations.
The second type is the solvent activated, in which the toe-puff is rendered soft and
extensible in the factory by being treated with solvent dipping or conditioning
machine, again to make it receptive to shoe making operations.
Thermoplastic
Adhesive coated heat-activated puffs are based on Polystyrene, polyacrylate, EVA,
neoprene, polyurethane, or gutta-perch. Resin or plasticiser is added to impart the
required adhesive properties.
Solvent Activated
These puffs are impregnated with either nitrocellulose or polystyrene resin. The
solvent blend should contain toluene, which dissolves more readily with the resin.
Print on Hot-Melt Resin
This is a further development of the paint on liquid type, in which the solvent has
been eliminated. Three types have been developed.
The Tru-line process of the BUSM Co. uses a polyamide resin in the rod form,
which is extruded, melted, and injected into a mould cavity adjacent to the flesh
side of the leather.
The transfer sheet method of the print a puff method of Vik supplies is the best
known, incorporates a thermoplastic polyamide resin cast on the release paper, on
contact with a heated die – in the shape of the required toe-puff the resin is melted
and transferred to the upper.
In a method developed by Sigma in Italy, a thermoplastic resin is injected into the
mould in the shape of the toe puff, and automatically applied to the upper before it
sets. In this application, the dangers of insufficient fusing or inadequate activation
of the adhesive surface are overcome because an evenly coated plastic film is
formed on the surface of the upper.
Filmic
Filmic puffs are a further development of the celluloid impregnated puff. These are
made from such polymers as ABS, Surlyn A and EVA. All filmic puffs developed
recently are thermoplastic, having a heat sensitive adhesivated in the bonding press
in the same way as the impregnated types are activated. Some filmic puffs can
compress and thereby absorb the creasing action of the upper.
2.3.3 Stiffener
A stiff material similar to that of the toe puff which may be moulded to the shape of the
last backpart or, alternatively, inserted flat and moulded during the subsequent process. It
is normally inserted between the lining and the outside to support the back of the shoe
and grip the foot.
Apart from the material used which is similar to that used for toe-puff except for the
thickness, leather board can also be used.
The three types of stiffeners are flat stiffener, semi-moulded stiffener and the
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fully-moulded stiffener.
2.3.4 Insoles Introduction to Lasting

This is the inner sole of the shoe, which is next to the foot under the shoe sock. Insole
may be made all in one piece or alternatively in two pieces. When an insole is made from
the two pieces it is known as the Blended insole.
The different types of insoles are made according to the construction of the footwear.
They are :
(i) Continental insole
(ii) Blended insole
(iii) Half insole (Backer Board with steel shank)
(iv) Half insole of a backer board and the insole board sandwiched together
(v) Polypropylene injected insole.
2.3.5 Soles
The layer of the material which covers the bottom of the shoe and is the walking surface
of that shoe. The sole made of a diversity of material, i.e. leather, pure rubber, resin
rubber compound, plastic etc.
2.3.6 Heels
The underpart of the shoe, which supports the heel of the foot and may be stuck or nailed
to the shoe bottom. Can be made of leather, wood, plastic, rubber, leather board etc.
SAQ 3
(a) State the types, categories and the purpose of the nails, tacks and staples used
in the shoe-making process.
(b) Define the functions of the other components of the shoe manufacturing.

2.4 SHAPE OF UPPER

Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort, the
upper must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe upper
after a period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot.
To last the upper well we should use the minimum strain necessary to make the upper
conform to the last. By stretching too tight we may cause upper cracks and inadequate
shape retention of the shoe. For quality and productivity it is important to skilfully design
and maintain the whole production process from material selection to pattern
engineering, cutting, closing and lasting.
Traditionally, for adequate shape retention the upper was left to the last for two to three
days, or even longer. Today we use techniques, which will give us better shape retention
of the upper in a much shorter time. These methods are known as combination of Mulling
and Heat Setting and there are a number of variations to these two basic processes.
Research has shown that if the leather upper is mulled before lasting in which moisture is
imparted into the leather fibres, and lasting and subsequent heat setting done immediately
after, the result is better shape retention properties in the final upper.
Mulling can be done in a variety of ways but each method if done correctly will give the
required results. The great advantage of mulling is that it allows the leather upper to be
stretched more easily and it is less likely to crack. Perhaps the most common method in 35
Hand Lasting use today is to subject the vamp area to steam vapours immediately before forepart
lasting. The time required and the temperatures used will vary according to the type of
upper leather being used but is only a matter of ½ a minute or so. This method also has
advantage of softening the toe-puff at the same time (thermo-plastic toe-puffs).
Another method is to use a Rapid Conditioning Cabinet for mulling; in this machine a
rapid stream of humid air is blown over the leather uppers. The temperature of the air is
50o C and the cycle time is 15-30 minutes. Every upper is subjected to identical
treatment, and very consistent moisture gains are obtained.
In modular (‘rink’) production configurations the upper is passed through steam in a
tunnel prior to forepart lasting. The shoe is lasted immediately after. Leather uppers
conditioned this way get mulled but the extra moisture does not remain in the material
more than about 20 seconds, so the lasting must be done immediately.
Heat setting is usually carried out after the upper has been completely lasted before any
of the bottoming operations (roughing etc.) are done. Great advances have been made in
this field in recent decades allowing progress from the old style of cabinet which usually
consists of two or three chambers, the first imparting steam or moisture into the upper
and other’s rapidly drying it out (a process which can take about 4 minutes to the modern
HVA (High Velocity air) heat setters which force the moisture into the upper and
immediately out again to complete the heat setting process in around 100 seconds (slight
variations according to the type of material)).
Heat setting will ensure about 70 -80% shape retention of most types of upper material,
including PU and PVC coated fabrics but there is usually no advantage in using moisture
on man-made upper materials. Only dry air is used and the temperature related to time
will vary according to the material.

2.5 BOTTOMING
The attachment of the sole to the upper is either by thread or adhesive in the majority of
the footwear made today. The sole can be directly attached to the upper. Alternatively,
the attachment can be indirect with the material called the insole runner platform between
the upper and the sole. Indirect method of attachment is easier to repair than the direct
methods.

2.6 BASIC METHODS OF LASTING

Methods of Lasting
In actual lasting, the upper can be attached to the insole, runner or sole
• by grindery such as tacks, wire staples, pre-formed staples, wire, and thread
attachment,
• by adhesive such as pressure sensitive, heat activated, hot melt adhesives,
and
• in string lasting the upper is held in place by a string.

2.7 HAND LASTING TOOLS

The following are the tools used in the hand lasting of the upper :
(i) Lasts
(ii) Pincers
(iii) Tack Puller
(iv) Adhesives
(v) Tacks and nails
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 (vi) Acrylic hammer Introduction to Lasting

(vii) Lacing thread

(viii) Table with a Lasting Jack

2.8 HAND LASTING PULLS

Sequence of Operation (Step by Step) required for Hand Lasted Shoes
(In European countries, this method is used for very high-grade shoes and surgical
footwear).
(i) The insole is first attached to the last.
(ii) The toe-puff and stiffener are inserted into the upper. There are various types
of these materials that can be used.
(iii) If the shoe is a lace shoe a string is used to tie up the lace holes prior to
lasting.
(iv) We then place the upper on the last and proceed with the ‘pulling over pulls’.
By using of lasting pincers the “First Drafting Pull” is made. For each of the
pulls in the first part of the operation we call it a draft. The drafts are made in
numerical order and in the direction indicated in the diagrams.
(v) The first drafting pull is along the length of the last, positions the upper and
is creating some tension on the top line. The toe end is then secured to the
insole by a tack.
(vi) The second and third drafting strains position the front of the shoe. (At this
point a careful check is made that the whole upper is straight.)
(vii) The fourth draft is made to position the seat. (At this point we check that the
back seam is straight and the top line is in the correct position.)

5.8
13
9, 10 7 8

(viii) The fifth and sixth drafting are taken at the front end of the stiffener and
often referred to as “Cornering the Counter”. At this stage, tension is first put
on the lining to ensure that there are no pleats or creases. This is what we call
“clearing the lining”. The draft is then made with the pincers holding the
upper stiffener and lining. This downward pull further increases the tension
of the upper.
(ix) The seventh and eighth drafting strains are just behind the joint position and
have the function to pull somewhat forward. So that there is no surplus
material in the waist.
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Hand Lasting (x) The ninth and tenth drafting strains, are taken halfway, down the forepart to
ensure that the vamp is properly stretched down to the last.
(xi) The final drafting strains eleventh and twelfth are taken in the waist and a
firm pull is required to ensure that the upper is pulled down right to the last.
(xii) The gaps between these drafting pulls are then filled with more pulls and
tacks spaced about 5-10mm apart.
(xiii) Around the toe and seat, it is necessary to twist the pincer clockwise to the
right of the centre and anticlockwise to the left of the centre. The twisting
action helps to compress “the leather so that it does not FORM pleats which
travel over the feather edge.
(xiv) The final operation is to top up or beat the upper by hammer all around the
featheredge to give a smooth feather line.
3

3
2

10
9

7
8

11 12

5 6

The completely lasted shoe should have the following important quality points:
• It should be down to the last.
• The top line should be somewhat snappy.
• Toe cap or other parts should be in right position.
• Back should be straight and have the specified required height.
• Shoe should make a pair.
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 Introduction to Lasting

SAQ 4
(a) Give the sequence of operations of Hand Lasting.
(b) What are the drafting pulls? What role do they play in the lasting of an
upper?

2.9 SUMMARY
In this unit, we discussed the different types of lasting constructions and the various
components used in the lasting department. The illustration and the sequence of operation
were also shown.

2.10 KEY WORDS

Lasting : The process involved in stretching (in some areas
by compressing) the upper material over the last
and securing it.
Lasting Constructions : Many variations in the way which footwear can be
made from the lasting point of view.
Last : The last is a foot model with dimensions and
shape similar to the anatomical foot but
sufficiently different.
Hand Lasting : It is a method of lasting the upper onto a last by
means of hand tools, viz., pincers, tack pullers etc.

39
Hand Lasting
FURTHER READINGS
FDDI Handouts, Volume 1, 2 and 3.
Shoe Material Process and Technology by Lasra.
Manual of Shoe Making by Clarkes.
Swayam Siddha Manual by FDDI.
Grinderies by Aritra Das, Sr. Faculty member FDDI.

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 Introduction to Lasting
HAND LASTING
It is a method of lasting the upper on to a last by means of hand tools, viz., pincers, tack
pullers etc. This block focuses on different types of lasting constructions, various
components and their sequence of operations with illustrations.
This block consists of two units.
In Unit 1, footwear technology like footwear anatomy, sizing system, shoe making
process, shoe styles and parts of shoe are discussed in detail.
In Unit 2, attention is drawn to the basic methods of lasting constructions and their
sequence of operations with illustrations.
Solved examples and self assessment questions are included in these units wherever
necessary.

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Hand Lasting
BASICS OF LASTING TECHNOLOGY
Lasting is a term related to the process involved in stretching (in some areas by
compressing) the upper material over the last (foot print) and securing it. This makes a
sincere attempt to expose you to latest lasting practices in footwear industry and to create
an urge to learn more about them.
This course comprises 3 blocks.
Block 1 deals with the different aspects of hand lasting of footwear upper. It gives stress
on various tools required to last therein and the main hand lasting drafting pulls required
to mould the upper as the shape of last.
Block 2 discusses the upper preparation before it is taken for the forepart, seat and side
lasting.
It also introduces the basic knowledge about adhesive mechanism, properties and its
importance in the footwear industry.
Block 3 focuses on the machine lasting construction and their sequence of operations
with illustrations.
Further reading recommends some titles for references, given at the end of the block.

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