How To Build An Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table

How to Build an Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table: Simple
DIY Woodworking Project

MATERIALS LIST
QTY. SIZE DESCRIPTION
A 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 33-3/4" cedar side rail
B 1 1 x 4-1/4 x 23-1/4" cedar top back rail
C 1 1 x 3-1/2 x 23-1/4" cedar bottom back rail
D 9 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/4" cedar seat slat
E 7 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 35-1/2" cedar back slat
F 2 1 x 4-1/4 x 20-1/2" cedar front leg
G 2 1 x 2-1/2 x 29" cedar back leg
H 2 1 x 2-3/4 x 6-1/2" cedar arm bracket
I 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 28" cedar arm
J 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 16" cedar foot
K 2 1 x 1-1/2 x 19-1/4" cedar cleat
L 2 1 x 5 x 16-1/2" cedar leg
M 2 3/4 x 5 x 17-1/2" cedar stretcher
N 5 1 x 3-3/4 x 24" cedar slat
O as required 1-5/8" No. 8 fh deck screw
P as required 2" No. 8 fh deck screw
Raw Materials
Per Chair, I believe you will need: 2--3/4x4x12 2--3/4x4x8 1--1x4x8 2--1x6x8
Making the Chair Seat

Lay out the side-rail shape on your stock, cut to the lines with a jigsaw [1] and sand the edges smooth.
Then, cut the back rails to size, and saw the curves that give the chair back its concave shape. Note that
the cut on the top rail is square, while the bottom rail has a 7-degree bevel.
Cut the seat slats to size and round the upper edges of each with a 1/4-in. quarter-round bit in a router
table. Then, round the exposed edges — those that won’t abut other parts — of the side and back rails.
Keep the router table set up for this job so you can round the edges of the other parts as they’re made.
Because of the shape of the seat, most of the slats require bevels on one or both edges. Use a table saw
or hand plane to cut the bevels.
Start seat assembly by screwing the lower back rail to the seat sides with one screw at each end of the
rail. Then, add slat No. 4 as indicated in the drawing, again using only one screw at each end [2].
Measure opposite diagonals of the subassembly and adjust it until it’s square. When you’re satisfied, add
a second screw to each end of the two slats to lock the pieces in position.
Use a 1-in.-thick block as a spacer to position the rear seat slat [3]. Then install the remaining slats.
Because the seat is curved and many of the slat edges are angled, don’t try to measure these spaces.
Instead, simply arrange the slats by eye so that they appear uniform.
Cut the front legs to size and round the long edges on the router table. Mark a line on the inside face of
each leg that indicates the bottom edge of the side rail. Then, attach the legs to the seat assembly with
screws driven from the inside of the side rails [4].
Adding the Back
The back slats are tapered to create a fan shape when installed. Cut each 35-1/2-in.-long slat blank so
one end is 3-1/4 in. wide and the other is 2-1/4 in. wide. We did this on a band saw, but a jigsaw will
work, too. Smooth the sawn surfaces, cut the curved top ends and round the edges.
Click to enlarge
[Step 1]
Click to enlarge
[Step 2]
Click to enlarge
[Step 3]
Click to enlarge
[Step 4]
Click to enlarge
[Step 5]
Cut the rear legs to size, angling the top ends at 64 degrees. Clamp each rear leg to a side rail, bore and
countersink screw pilot holes, and secure the legs with screws [5].
Click to enlarge
[Step 6] Next, screw the top back rail to the top ends of the back legs [6], and lay the chair on its
back to install the back slats.
Click to enlarge
[Step 7]
Place a 4-in. block under the upper back rail to provide clearance for the long back slats. Mark the centers of
the top and bottom back rails, align the center back slat with these marks and screw it in place [7].
Click to enlarge
[Step 8]
Then install the outer two slats [8]. Secure the remaining slats so the top curved ends are aligned and
the spaces are uniform.
Click to enlarge
[Step 9]
Installing the Arms
Cut out the arms and arm supports, and round the edges. Temporarily clamp the supports in place and
secure them with screws [9].
Click to enlarge
[Step 10]
Then, attach the arms to the front and rear legs with screws [10].
Making the Table
The table is built the same way as the chair — all exposed edges are rounded on the router table and the
parts are simply screwed together.
Lay out the feet on 1-in. stock and cut to the lines with a jigsaw, then cut the remaining rectangular
pieces to size.
Click to enlarge
[Step 11]
Attach each foot with three screws [11],
Click to enlarge
[Step 12]
Then bore pilot holes and screw the two stretchers to the legs [12].
Click to enlarge
[Step 13]
To assemble the top, it’s easiest to first clamp the pieces together with 3/8-in.-thick spacers placed
between the top slats. Then, attach the cleats [13] — use the base subassembly to make sure they’re
spaced properly.
Click to enlarge
[Step 14]
Finally, screw the base to the top cleats [14].
Finishing
Lightly sand the chair and table with 120-grit paper. Keep in mind, though, that cedar is a soft, oily wood
that doesn’t sand as well as pine or hardwood. You won’t achieve the silky smooth surface that you’d
expect on indoor furniture.
We finished our pieces with Sikkens Cetol 1, 077 Cedar (www.nam.sikkens.com). First, wipe all the
sanding dust from the wood, then apply a coat of finish with a natural-bristle brush. Allow each coat to dry
for 24 hours before applying the next. Three coats should provide adequate protection from the
elements, but it’s a good idea to cover the pieces in the off-season if they’re left outdoors.

How To Build An Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

How To Build An Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

How To Build An Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

How to Build an Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table: Simple

DIY Woodworking Project

Making the Chair Seat

You might also like