Chess Board Construction

By Trent Kelly

© 2006 Trent Kelly, All Rights Reserved

Among the primary challenges faced when deciding on the technique to use for constructing a wood-
en chessboard are safety, ease of construction, proper alignment of the squares, and strength of the
finished assembly. These instructions describe how I approached the task. Like most instructions,
it’s best to read through the whole procedure before you begin.

The tools I used include table saw, dowel jig, drill, half sheet sander, clamps, disposable glue brush,
flat chisel, and rubber mallet.

Step 1. Design

Determine what size of squares you want to have and what your finished design will look like. I
chose 1 1/2 inch squares with a walnut border because I am going to make mine into a table with
room on the sides for captured pieces. Bigger squares are safer to cut material for on a table saw.
Bigger squares require bigger clamps to assemble. I suggest comparing your chess pieces to
boards of different sizes in a game store before making your final decision. Typical sizes range from
1 1/2” squares to 3” squares.

Step 2. Choose Materials

I selected Chestnut for my light wood and black walnut for dark. Chosen boards should be fairly
close to the same thickness, approximately 3/4”. For each type of wood, you will be cutting four
strips that are as wide as the size of squares you choose and approximately 9 times that length. For
example, since I made my squares 1 1/2”, I needed enough material of each type of wood to cut 4
pieces of 1 1/2” X 14”. Note that saw blade thickness must be taken into consideration. The length
of each strip must be 8 times the width plus the amount of material that will be lost in sawing later
(saw blade width multiplied by 9 at the bare minimum, but I suggest 2” or more of extra length).

I selected Gorilla Glue and 3/8” X 1 1/2” expansible dowel pins. I procured a roll of wax paper to line
my workbench during the glue stages.

Step 3. Choose Best Sides

Examine your material and choose the side with the most appealing grain pattern and condition.
Use a dull pencil to label the side of each piece of wood that you don’t want to be the top surface of
the finished board.

Step 4. Material Preparation

Set up a table saw with the blade 90 degrees from the table top. Position the fence and make a trim
cut that removes the minimum amount of material from the stock and gives a perfectly straight edge.
Do this to one length-wise edge of each board from which strips will be cut. Keep track of or mark
with a dull pencil the straightened edge.

2
Step 5. Cut Strips

Set the table saw fence to the desired width of the squares and lock it securely in place. If you
aren’t positive the fence position is accurate, use a piece of scrap material to make a test cut and
measure the width. Use the straight edge side produced in step 4 against the fence when cutting
strips. Cut eight strips, four from each color of wood. It is critical that you do not move the fence
before all strips are cut. Getting the strips the same width is necessary for pattern alignment later.
Always use a straight edge you’ve cut on the saw against the fence to make the next cut. Transfer
your best side marks from step 3 to each piece. Do not move your fence when you’re done.

Step 6. Glue Alternating Pattern

Line your gluing bench with wax paper and have your clamps positioned nearby. Position strips in
an alternating pattern making sure all best sides (step 3) face the same way. Staple or tape wax
paper around the edge of a straight piece of scrap material to be used for alignment of the ends of
the strips for clamping. Apply glue according to the manufacturer’s instructions to the joining sur-
faces of the strips, align the ends of the strips as closely as possible against the straight edge
wrapped with wax paper, and clamp the strips together tightly with at least 3 clamps.

3
Step 7. Glue Cleanup

When the glue is dry, remove the clamps. Remove excess glue from one (or both) face of the alter-
nating pattern. I used a flat chisel. Course sand the face to make a smooth surface (to be placed
down on the table saw for future cuts). Do not finish sand. Make sure you know which side is the
best side.

Step 8. Preparation for Cutting Strips of Alternating Pattern

Do not disturb the position of your fence unless absolutely necessary. Check your push miter to
make sure that it is 90 degrees to table saw blade. Cut a piece of scrap and check with a square if
you have any doubt the push miter is set up correctly. Trim the minimum amount off one edge of the
alternating pattern that you can to produce a perfectly straight edge.

Step 9. Cut Strips of Alternating Pattern

Hopefully you have been able to avoid moving the fence on your table saw. If you haven’t, position
the fence as closely as you can to the same position you used to cut strips previously. Use the
straight edge side produced in step 8 against the fence when cutting strips. Cut eight strips. Always
use a straight edge you’ve cut on the saw against the fence to make the next cut. Transfer your
best side marks from step 3 to each piece.

4
Step 10. Arrange Pattern and Mark Dowel Positions

Reverse every other strip making sure to keep the best sides all facing the same way. If you aren’t
familiar with your dowel jig, mark and dowel together two pieces of scrap as a test.

Measure and mark center lines for dowel hole locations. There need to be two dowels connecting
each pair of adjacent strips. Marks must be staggered such that dowels between strips 1 and 2 are
not in the same squares as dowels between strips 2 and 3.

Step 11. Drill Dowel Holes

Make sure your dowel jig is setup properly and drill a test hole in a piece of scrap. Insert a dowel
into the test hole and measure to make sure that more than half the dowel fits into the hole. This
drilling depth must be repeatable, so use a spacer on your drill bit if necessary. Drill all dowel holes.

5
Step 12. Glue Chessboard Pattern

Apply glue acording to the manufacturer’s instructions to one strip and put a drop of glue into each
dowel hole. Insert the dowels (tap them in place with a mallet if necessary). Put a drop of glue into
each dowel hole in the strip being joined. CAREFULLY attach the two strips. Don’t be too aggres-
sive with a mallet and break a strip. Clamps can be tightened alternately to ease the two strips
together. They must be completely flush with each other before adding the next strip. I suggest glu-
ing each half the board separately, clamping them, and allowing them to dry before joining the two
halves together. Make sure you have several clamps long enough to get around the two halves and
the dowels. I used four clamps for 1 1/2 inch squares. Bigger squares will require more clamps.

Step 13. Remove Excess Glue

When the glue is dry, remove the clamps. Remove excess glue from one (or both) face of the
assembled pattern. I used a flat chisel.

Step 14. Trim Edge

Adjust your saw fence and make a super thin trim cut on both sides to remove any imperfections in
alignment and excess glue.

Optional Steps (add sides)

The procedure for connecting the strips together with dowels can be repeated to add sides around
the board. If you go down this path, make sure you get the board orientation correct (dark square on
the player’s left side in the closest row) with your best side.

Step 15. Course Sand

Your chess board pattern should look similar to this picture after course sanding.

6
Optional Steps

If you are going to build the board into a table, do so before final sanding and finishing.

Step 16. Final Sand

Sand with progressively finer grit sand papers until you run out of finer grits of paper or patience,
whichever comes first. I suggest working down to 600 or finer.

Step 17. Apply Finish

Choose a finish that can handle a little wear and apply it according to the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions. I chose tung oil.