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Dyeing wool with acid dyes
Dr. Tanveer Hussain
Dean Faculty of Engineering & Technology
National Textile University Faisalabad.
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Acid Dyes
• Dye protein fibres (e.g. wool and silk) in acidic
solutions
• Can also be used for dyeing nylon
• Also called ‘anionic’ dyes because of anionic
groups associated with chromophores
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Classification of different acid dyes
Levelling dyes Milling dyes Super-milling dyes
Group I II III
Affinity Low Medium High
Leveling Good Moderate Low
Molecular weight Low High High
Solubility High Low Low
Solution type Molecular Colloidal Colloidal
Dyeing pH 2-4 4-6 6-8
pH assistant Sulphuric or formic acid Acetic acid Ammonium acetate
Wet fastness Low Good Very good
Example BEMACID E dyes BEMACID N dyes BEMACID F dyes
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Wool dyeing mechanism with acid dyes
NH3+ NH3+ NH3 .X NH3 . Col
+ X- + Col.-
+ H+ R R R
R
COO - COOH COOH COOH
Wool in Wool
Wool in Dyed wool
acid bath forming an
aqueous
inorganic
bath
salt
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Substrate form and dyeing apparatus
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Suitable dyes for dyeing wool
• Acid dyes
• 1:1 Metal complex dyes
• 1:2 Metal complex dyes
• Reactive dyes
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Dye selection for wool
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Dye selection for wool…
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Effect of temperature and time
• Dyeing below boiling temperature gives
highest protection to wool fiber
• At higher temperatures the dyestuff diffuses
quicker into the fibre and penetration is
better.
– This has a positive effect on the shade build-up
and fastness level,
– But the danger of fibre damage particularly with
long dyeing times increases.
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Effect of electrolyte
• Glauber salt has a retarding/leveling effect on
some dyestuffs.
• Too much Glauber salt can also have
disadvantages (precipitations, poorer rubbing
fastness etc.).
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Effect of pH
• The optimum dyeing pH depends on the type
of dye used
• The pH value has a direct influence on the
absorption speed, the exhaustion level and
fixation of the dyestuffs.
• The pH value mostly determines the levelness
and quality of a dyeing
• pH values which are too high or too low lead
to irreversible fibre damages
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Example dyeing process:
Piece dyeing on jet dyeing machine
1 0.3 – 0.5 g/l Deaerating/defoaming agent
0.5 – 2.0 g/l Anti-crease agent
0.5 – 2.0 % Glauber’s salt/leveling agent
1.0 – 2.0 ml/l Acid donor
2 x % (o.w.f.) Acid dye
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