ACME AL/ALN Series Engine Carburetor Replacement (points & condenser engines)

NOTE: if your engine has Solid State ignition (and already has a new-style valve cover assy), DISREGARD figure 5 & 11 thru 13

Carbure-

Valve
Illustrated parts list
Cover
Intake Gaskets

Linkage &

Heat Dampening

Tools needed for job (10 mm socket and swivel extension, flat- Parts for installation. Not shown (but included) is a piece of
tip screwdriver, 10 & 13 mm wrenches, needle nose pliers, 5 new fuel line & clamp for connecting fuel tank to new carbure-
& 6 mm allen wrenches. Flat file may or may not be needed) tor. (note that carb is pictured with new oil bath filter
assy...some carbs do not have this)

Feedcock ON

Feedcock OFF

1) Shut fuel off at tank.

(lever swung AWAY from
fuel line fitting)
2) Remove fuel line from carburetor inlet and drain fuel line.

Valve cover breather tube

Valve cover

3) Drain fuel from fuel bowl on Carburetor. Black plastic Existing components. Muffler has been removed for clarity.
bowl has spring loaded push button. Metal bowl has wing You do not need to remove the muffler for installation, but
nut/bolt. it sure is easier to do the work when it is not present.
4) Remove air filter assembly (oil-bath assembly shown, or
you may have a rectangular, dry paper filter assembly in-
stead). Drain oil from cup of oil-bath assembly. (old oil bath 5) Remove allen head bolt fastening breather tube to valve
filter will NOT be re-used; the new carb will have a new oil cover assembly with 5mm allen wrench.
bath filter….if you have a dry filter, it will be re-used.)

Use a 10mm socket or

wrench for the upper nut
(a swivel extension
helps clear the air inlet
elbow if using a socket).

You are limited to the

wrench for the lower nut.

7) Remove wavy washers from studs with needle-nose pli-

6) Remove nuts fastening carburetor to engine. ers, or, if you are good, your fingers. BE CAREFUL not to
drop washer into opening below on valve cover.

Throttle linkage rod

Governor arm

8) Loosen clamp screw holding throttle linkage rod to gover- 9) Remove old carburetor from engine.
nor arm. Slide rod out of clamp to right.
 10) Remove old intake gasket. (May have to scrape off with 11) Remove bolts fastening valve cover assembly to engine
razor.) block with 10mm socket or wrench.

External view
of new valve
cover assembly

Internal view of
new valve cover
assembly

BE CAREFUL not to drop or allow anything to fall into the 12) Assemble new valve cover assembly. Stack exterior cover
valve chamber while the cover is off! on top of interior cover with cork gasket between the two.
Slotted end of rubber tube fits into hole on exterior cover.

If the new valve cover assy. hits the upper edge of the governor
linkage cover, this is where a flat file is employed….you may 13) Install new cover assembly with “tab” at top and with
have to file a little material away from the governor cover. breather tube pointing away from the recoil starter.
 Throttle shaft arm

14) Install new intake gaskets: Sandwich the heat dampening

15) Install throttle linkage to carb: Slide anti-chatter spring
spacer (engine block-gasket-spacer-gasket) between the gas-
over straight end of linkage rod. Insert curved end of linkage
kets. If the studs are long enough, use the spacer included
rod into inner (larger) hole of throttle shaft arm on carburetor.
with the kit. The tip of the stud can be flush with the face of
Hook spring to outer (smaller) hole.
the nut when using the spacer. If the studs are too short (stud
recessed below face of nut when tightened), remove the spacer
and just use one gasket.

Governor arm clamp Throttle shaft arm

Linkage rod

Throttle lever

16) Install the new carburetor: First, take the straight end of 17) Adjust governor / throttle linkage: Move the governor arm
the linkage rod and fit it into the hole in the governor arm all the way to the “right” by lifting up on the engine throttle
clamp. Slide the carburetor over the studs. Install upper nut on lever (down at bottom...this is the lever that the throttle cable is
carb mounting finger-tight for now. The linkage rod MAY be hooked up to...if the throttle cable is still attached, you can
in a bit of a bind due to the fact that the throttle shaft arm on achieve this by simply moving the throttle lever on the handle-
the new carburetor is further “out” from the engine, and may bars to the “full throttle” position). Then, rotate throttle shaft
not line up with the governor arm as well. If this is the case, arm to fully open position (rotating Counter-clockwise looking
Remove the linkage rod from the governor arm. Take needle- at TOP of carb) With components in these positions, tighten
nose pliers and twist the top of the governor arm just a bit so Governor arm clamp screw down on throttle rod. Hook the
the hole in the clamp is pointing “in-line” with the direction the loose end of anti-chatter spring to governor arm clamp screw,
throttle shaft arm. Reinsert the throttle rod in the governor arm on the threaded part visible below the head.
clamp and check for smooth movement. (NOTE: may have to
remove carb from mounting studs to get linkage rod out of /
back into the clamp) When satisfied with linkage, install wavy
washers and nuts, tighten with 10mm socket or wrench. DO
NOT tighten linkage clamp screw yet.
 Hook spring in
18) Remove governor linkage guard (if engine equipped with one)
Outermost hole
with 6mm allen wrench & 13 mm wrench to access governor spring. (furthest to Right)
Using needle-nose pliers, move governor spring from the middle
hole on the governor arm to the outer hole. Reinstall linkage guard.

Fuel intake nipple

19) Run new fuel line from fuel tank to intake on carburetor. 20) Remove cover from NEW oil-bath air filter assembly (if
Secure with supplied clamps (the hose will fit loosely at the new carb equipped with one) and fill “cup” with engine oil
carb and tight at the tank, but it will tighten up OK on the (any clean engine oil up to 15w40 is fine) to the fill line
carb with the clamp supplied). marked near the bottom. Reinstall air filter assembly cover.
(this is a bit tricky...make sure to line up the “tab” on the one
side, or the cover won’t sit down right)
NOTES:
A. The Red “choke” control on this new carburetor works
BACKWARD from most push-pull chokes...on this one,
you PUSH IN to choke the engine for starting, and PULL Idle Mixture
OUT for the “run” position. screw
B. After starting engine, adjust the idle mixture and idle stop
screws on the new carb for proper operation if needed.
Engine should idle smoothly, and accelerate without much Idle stop
hesitation. (Idle mixture screw should run about 1.5 to 2 screw
turns out from bottom.)
C. Make sure the nuts or bolts that attach the air filter assem-
bly to the carb are tight. (the factory pre-assembles the air
filter / filter mount to the carb, but they are not always
tightened properly)