Turning the sear screw (small .

050 screw behind hammer) CCW

will give it MORE sear engagement. If the rifle double-taps do
this and it will stop that problem (per Tommy at Georgia
Precision).

Cleaning with lighter fluid and blow out with compressed air is the
way to go!

The Jewell AR-15 Two Stage Trigger

(What follows are the original factory instructions, after they end, there is another set of my
instructions, which are illustrated with photos to facilitate the installation of this fine trigger. Price
information is also at the end)

I. GENERAL INFORMATION

Designed for two-stage operation only, the trigger is uniquely adjustable for first
stage pull weight, second stage sear engagement, second stage pull weight, and
overtravel.

II. MATERIALS

The hammer, disconnect lever, and trigger are fabricated form 440-C stainless
steel and are heat treated to 57 to 59 Rockwell C for long life.

III. FEATURES

The trigger is fully adjustable without removing parts after initial assembly. The
set screws are fitted with nylon inserts to ensure position retention after
adjustment, and all are easily accessible from the top of the lower receiver
assembly.

IV. RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT

The first stage pull is adjustable from approximately 1 pound to 3 1/2 pounds.
The second stage range is from several ounces to 3 1/2 pounds, thereby giving a
total weight of pull from about 1 1/2 pounds to over 7 pounds for the combined
weight of pull.

V. OPERATION

The hammer (3) and trigger (1) are retained in the lower receiver housing (4) by
pins (16) and (17). The disconnect lever (2) is retained through Its pivot hole on
a boss on the trigger. Beginning from the cocked position (as shown), the
hammer is held on its notch (7) by trigger sear (6). When properly adjusted, pull
of trigger (1) reduces the engagement of (6) and (7) (first stage pull) and allows
the disconnect lever to rotate to the point that its contact face (S) engages the
hammer tang (9) (beginning of second stage). Additional pull against the
resistance of spring (10) allows total disengagement of (6) and (7) which
releases the hammer to fire (end of second stage). Recoil of the bolt (not shown)
forces the hammer back and allows the disconnect lever to catch the hammer at
(9) and (13) by compressing spring (10) with the trigger still in the pulled
position. Releasing the trigger allows its return spring to rotate the trigger around
Its pivot pin which causes the disconnect lever to release the hammer at (9) and
(13). At this point the trigger sear recaptures the hammer at (6) and (7) to
complete the firing cycle.
IV Installation

1. Ensure that the rifle has no round in the chamber and that the magazines
removed! Always safety first.
2. Remove the pistol grip (ensure that the safety selector plunger and its spring
are kept).

3. Remove the safety lever/cam from lower receiver.

4. Put trigger in place with the trigger return spring, disconnect lever assembly
and install pivot pin from the right side with the groove in the pivot pin on right
side.

5. Drop In the first stage adjustment plate (notches inward) and finish pin
installation.

6. Move long leg of trigger spring into second or third notch in adjustment plate.

7. Install hammer and install pivot pin with the groove on the right side (bottom of
hammer spring will stop at forward wall of housing cavity).

8. Locate hammer pin and trigger pin so that the grooves are visible between the
inside of the receiver housing and trigged hammer parts. Install spring pin
retainer so that each pin is captured.

Note: Before adjusting the trigger you should consider some means to prevent
the hammer from striking the lower receiver forward of the hammer to prevent
damage to the receiver.

1. First stage pull weight

A. Ensure that the long leg of the trigger return spring is captured by the second
or third notch in the adjustment plate.

B. Pull the trigger back just far enough to detect rearward movement until the
trigger returns fully forward. This is the minimum pull weight of the first stage
(about one pound).

C. First stage pull weight may be increased by moving the spring leg to a more
rear ward notch in the adjustment plate to the desired weight of pull (maximum
about 3 1/2 lbs.).

2. Second stage sear engagement

This is a true two-stage design in that full trigger sear engagement is present
until final release. Pull trigger until resistance is felt then continue pull until
hammer release. The difference in trigger travel felt is second stage sear
engagement. That travel (engagement) may be increased or decreased by
turning adjustment screw 12. Turning the screw in (clockwise) will reduce sear
engagement, out (counter-clockwise) will increase sear engagement. Set to
preference.

3. Second stage weight of pull Note: The first stage pull and second stage pull
are accumulative (1 + 2 = total) Turn screw 11 in (clockwise) to increase weight
of pull turn out (counter - clockwise) to decrease weight of pull. Set to preference.

4. Overtravel Adjustment (Not Shown)

Note: The overtravel screw is set to minimum when received to facilitate the
initial settings of stage one and stage two. It is located on the forward right hand
side of the trigger.

B. Turn the over-travel screw in (clockwise) until pulling of the trigger will not
allow hammer fall with the trigger fully pulled.

C. While continuing to keep pull pressure on the trigger, turn the over-travel
screw (counter - clockwise) until the hammer falls.

D. The hammer will not fall completely to the full fire position. It will be stopped by
the trigger at 14-15E

F. Continue to turn the over-travel screw out until the hammer falls totally
forward. Turn screw out an additional 1/4 turn. This is minimum over-travel
selling.

5. Safety Operation

Note: The safety cannot be engaged or reinstalled with the hammer forward. This
prevents damage to trigger parts when recocking the hammer

A. Cock the hammer and reinstall the safety lever/cam.

B. Place the safety lever to 'FIRE" and ensure that the hammer falls completely.

C. Place the safety lever to "safe" and ensure that total trigger pull will not allow

the hammer to fall.

D. Reinstall the safety plunger, its spring, and the pistol grip.

Finally: Exercise caution and good judgement, and

enjoy. Thank you for choosing our product

LIMITED LIABILITY AND WARRANTY

Jewell Triggers guarantees that its products are free from defects in materials
and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from date of purchase. In the event
of any defect in materials or workmanship, Jewell Triggers' sole liability therefor
shall be the repair or replacement of any such products that are defective in
materials or workmanship, at the option of Jewell Triggers. The repair or
replacement of any such products(s) shall be Jewel Triggers' sole responsibility.
This warranty specifically excludes any and all consequential or accidental
damages. No other warranties or liability whatsoever are either expressed or
implied. If any such warranties shall be imposed by law notwithstanding this
provision, then such warranties shall be the responsibility of Jewell Triggers'
Immediate buyer.By way of example, and not limitation, there shall be no
warranties of merchantability, use of trade,or fitness for a particular purpose

Here are the revised instructions that we use and supply with this trigger: Your
comments are welcomed..

The Jewell Trigger For AR-15 Type Rifles

Supplementary Installation Instructions.
Use these with the factory instructions for best results

Ensure that the rifle has no round in the chamber and that the
magazine is removed! Remember Safety is always first.

It will be easier if the upper receiver is removed from the lower during
this operation; separate them at this point, and set the upper aside.

Remove the pistol grip (ensure that the small safety selector plunger
and its spring are kept).

The following steps will be much easier if the lower receiver is clamped or
secured in a vise. A piece of ¾” plywood 2 7/16”” wide by 6 inches long
clamped in a vise works well. An old 20 round or 30 round magazine will
also work. Place the lower on that block/magazine.

STANDING AT THE RIFLE BUTT, THE MAGAZINE RELEASE IN ON

THE RIGHT SIDE. BE SURE YOU VIEW THE RIFLE FROM THIS
POSITION WHEN READING THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
 1. Remove the safety lever/cam from the
lower receiver. Clean, lube with CLP and set
this aside as you will use it again.

2. Remove the old trigger, its spring, the hammer and its spring from
the lower with the appropriate drift punch, by pushing the pins out.
Push the pins out from right to left. The pins will be used again, clean
and lube them with CLP. The other trigger parts should be put in a
bag and set aside for storage.

3. Thoroughly clean out the lower.

4. Put the Jewell trigger into the lower with the trigger return spring
(first stage spring) on the trigger’s left side. The trigger spring end
with the slight “L” shape should be under the shinny rivet head on the
front left side of the trigger. The disconnector lever assembly is
already attached to the trigger. (Early Triggers did not have this ‘rivet
head’; the spring was much more difficult to install.)

5. Install the trigger pivot pin from the right side with the outboard
groove in that pivot pin on the far right side (opposite from the way
it came out!!). Only insert this pin 1/8” or so into the lower. You
should still be able to see the grove in the middle of the pin, as
well that the grove on the far right side of the pin. The pin DOES
NOT go into the trigger at this time!

6. Place the pin retaining spring with the “P” (the hairpin spring)
shape pointing downward, into the lower receiver between the
trigger assembly and the right side of the lower.

7. Continue to insert the trigger pivot pin until it goes through this
“P”, and most of the trigger/disconnector assembly. Don’t
insert it all the way just yet.
 8. Place the first stage adjustment
plate (notches facing inward) on the
left side of the trigger return spring
inside the lower (between the lower’s
inside wall and the trigger return
spring). Finish inserting the pivot pin through the center hole in
the adjustment plate until the pin is flush with both sides of the
lower.

9. Move long leg of trigger spring into the second or third notch in
the adjustment plate. A special tool has been provided to do this.
This tool is the thin piece of piano wire bent to an “L” shape with a
small hook on the long end. Grasp this tool by the “L” and use the
small hook to grab the long leg of the trigger spring and reposition it
as needed. This can also be done with needle nose pliers or forceps,
but the “L” tool makes is much easier, particularly when the upper
receiver is in place and the rifle is in the field. Make sure the trigger
spring is on the trigger assembly and returns the trigger when the
trigger is pulled. When the spring leg gets to the vertical position it
easier to push it aft with the other tool, the fork tool.

10. Push the free end of the pin retainer spring all the way down
into to forward cavity of the lower; ensure that it is below the level
of the hammer pivot pin hole.

11. Install the hammer and hammer spring with the other pivot pin.
(The grove should also be on the far right side) The bottom of
hammer spring, the part with the aluminum roller on it, will stop
against the forward wall of lower receiver cavity as you push the pin
in from right to left. Do NOT cock the hammer at this time!

12. Locate hammer pin and trigger pin so that the grooves are
visible between the right inside surface of the receiver housing and
trigger and hammer parts. The “P” part of the pin retaining spring
should be in that grove to the right of the trigger assembly.
 13. Now is the time to use the other special tool.
Use the “Fork Tool” (the one with the semicircular
tapered end) to pry the hammer spring away from
the right receiver wall thus exposing the grove in the
hammer pivot pin.

14. Reach in with the “L” tool and hook the middle of the pin
retaining spring and pull gently upward on it while moving the
hammer spring away from the right wall of the receiver with the
fork tool. Pull upward on the pin retaining spring until the “U”
shaped portion snaps into the grove in the hammer pin.

15. When the pin retaining spring snaps in place, your are done
with the installation and ready to adjust the trigger. Check the
installation by putting slight pressure on the pivot pins with your
punch, they shouldn’t move.

Note: Before adjusting the trigger you should consider some means
to prevent the hammer from striking the lower receiver forward of the
hammer to prevent damage to the receiver and/ bolt stop. A method
that works well is to take several .223 bore cleaning patches, saturate
them with CLP and stuff them down into the space in front of the
trigger when it is cocked. When stuffed in just right, they will
significantly cushion the fall of the hammer.

Trigger Adjustment Procedure

First stage pull weight

1. Ensure that the second or third notch in the adjustment plate has
captured the long leg of the trigger return spring.

2. Pull the trigger back just far enough to detect rearward movement and
verify the trigger returns fully forward. This is the minimum pull weight of
the first stage (about one pound).

3. First stage pull weight may be increased by moving the spring leg to
a more rearward notch in the adjustment plate to the desired weight
of pull (maximum about 3 1/2 lbs.). Start with the adjustment in about
the middle of the plate. Use the “L” tool for this adjustment.

Second stage sear engagement

This is a true two-stage design in that full trigger sear engagement is

present until final release. Pull trigger until resistance is felt then
continue pull until hammer release. The difference in trigger travel felt
is second stage sear engagement. That travel (engagement) may be
increased or decreased by turning adjustment screw (#12 in the
attached drawing) with a .050 Allen wrench. Turning the screw in
(clockwise) will reduce sear engagement; out (counter-clockwise) will
increase sear engagement. Set to your preference.

Second stage weight of pull

Note: The first stage pull and second stage pull are accumulative
(1st + 2nd = total)

Turn screw 11 in (clockwise) with a 1/16” Allen Wrench to increase

weight of pull turn out (counter - clockwise) to decrease weight of pull.
Set to your preference.

Overtravel Adjustment (Not Shown)

Note: The overtravel screw is set to minimum when received to

facilitate the initial settings of stage one and stage two. The
Overtravel Adjustment Screw is located on the forward right hand
side of the trigger.

1. Turn the over-travel screw in (clockwise) until pulling of the trigger

will not allow hammer to fall with the trigger fully pulled.

2. While continuing to keep pull pressure on the trigger, turn the

over-travel screw out (counter - clockwise) until the hammer falls.

3. The hammer will not fall completely to the full fire position; it will be
stopped by the trigger at 14-15E.

4. Continue to turn the over-travel screw out until the hammer falls
totally forward. Turn screw out an additional 1/4 turn. This is
minimum over-travel selling.

Safety Operation

Note: The safety cannot be engaged or reinstalled with the hammer

forward. This prevents damage to trigger parts when recocking the
hammer.

1. Cock the hammer and reinstall the safety lever/cam.

2. Place the safety lever to 'FIRE” and ensure that the hammer falls
completely.

3. Place the safety lever to "safe" and ensure that total trigger pull
will not allow the hammer to fall.

4. Reinstall the safety plunger, its spring, and the pistol grip.

Finally: Exercise caution and good judgment, and enjoy. Thank you
for choosing our product.

The Jewell Trigger is available for $200. The price is the same for the COLT/large pin
version or the milspec 'small pin' version. We try to keep both of these versions in
stock and ready to ship. A copy of our instructions come with each trigger. To place an
order email me your credit card info and I will advise you of shipping arrangements.
I'll need your home and shipping address, a home and work phone number. I also
need a description of your rifle, its Make and Model. If possible measure the diameter
of the trigger pin in your rifle and supply me with that information. I normally ship
them by Priority Mail at a cost of about $7.00 to you. This method will get it to you in
about two to three days. I can ship 'overnight' Express Mail for about $12.00. I will
 ship COD, via UPS but I don't advise it.

I will install the trigger in your lower for the same $200 price. Please advise me before
you ship your lower.

Instructions Courtesy of

The High Power Riflesmith

Gunsmithing for AR-15s
Specializing in Accuracy Enhancements

www.highpowerrifle.com

305-606-0605

Page last updated on 8/31/01

Hit Counter revised on 8/31/01