PML/PR-45/2014

Heavy Metals in Cosmetics

Investigators
Mr. Ramakant Sahu
Ms. Poornima Saxena
Dr. Sapna Johnson
   

Advisors
Prof. H. B. Mathur
Prof. H. C. Agarwal

Date
January 2014

Centre for Science and Environment

41, Tughlakabad Institutional Area, New Delhi 110062
website: www.cseindia.org; e-mail: [email protected]

Pollution Monitoring Laboratory

Core 6A, Fourth Floor, India Habitat Centre,
Lodhi Road, New Delhi – 110003

 
Contents

1. About PML 3

2. Introduction 3

3. Literature Review 5

4. Health Impact of Heavy Metals in Cosmetics 7

5. Regulations for Cosmetics 8

6. Objectives of the Study 12

7. Material and Methods 12

8. Results and Discussions 13

9. Conclusions 17

 
1. About PML
The Centre for Science and Environment (CSE), one of India’s leading non-governmental organization
based in New Delhi, has set up the Pollution Monitoring Laboratory (PML) to monitor environmental
pollution and food contamination. PML is an ISO 9001:2008 certified laboratory accredited by SWISO,
CH-5610, Wohlen, Switzerland, conducting Pollution Monitoring and Scientific Studies on
Environmental and food Samples. The Lab has qualified and experienced staff that exercise Analytical
Quality Control (AQC) and follow Good Laboratory Practices (GLP). It is equipped with state-of-art
equipment for monitoring and analysis of air, water and food contamination, including Gas
Chromatograph with Mass Spectrometer (GC-MS), Gas Chromatograph (GC) with ECD, NPD, FID
and other detectors, High Performance Liquid Chromatograph (HPLC), Atomic Absorption
Spectrometer, UV-VIS Spectrophotometer, Mercury Analyzer, Respirable Dust Sampler, TS-EMF, etc.
Its main aim is to undertake scientific studies to generate public awareness about environmental
pollution and toxins in food and other commodities. It provides scientific services at nominal cost to
communities that cannot obtain scientific evidence against polluters in their area. The lab and its work
are directed to use science to achieve environmentally sound and socially relevant public policy.

2. Introduction

Cosmetic is defined as “Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or
introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes any article intended for use as a
component of cosmetic”1. Cosmetic products are regulated for health and safety. There are concerns
regarding the presence of harmful chemicals, including heavy metals, in these products. There has not
been many studies on presence of heavy metals in cosmetics in India. To assess the levels of heavy
metals, PML conducted a study on commonly available lipsticks, fairness creams, lip balms and anti-
aging creams.

                                                            
1
Section 3 aaa) . Drug and Cosmetic Act, 1940 available at
http://cdsco.nic.in/html/copy%20of%201.%20d&cact121.pdf
3

 
3. Literature Review

A study published in Contact Dermatitis found that in 88 eye shadow colours from 49 different
products, 75% of the eye shadow colours contained >5 ppm of at least one of the following: lead,
cobalt, nickel, chromium, and arsenic. And 100% contained >1 ppm of at least one of the above
substances2.

Test conducted in the United States by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics revealed that 61% of the 33
brands of lipsticks contained lead, with levels of upto 0.65 ppm3. The United States Food and Drug
Administration also found lead in all the samples of lipstick that it tested, with levels ranging from 0.09
to 3.06 ppm4. Health Canada found that 81% of the samples of lipstick that it tested for lead had levels
ranging from 0.079 to 0.84 ppm, and that one lipstick contained 6.3 ppm5. This is despite many metals
being banned as intentional ingredients in cosmetics in Canada6. They are not banned as product
impurities since their presence as such is considered unavoidable7. An impurity is a substance not
intentionally added to a product, but rather is either a by-product of the manufacturing process, formed
by the breakdown of ingredients or an environmental contaminant of raw ingredients8. The latter is the
case for heavy metals, as their persistence in the environment and their natural presence in rocks, soil
and water lead to their presence in pigments and other raw materials used in various industries,
including cosmetics9.

Environmental Working Group found that the average women use 12 products containing a total of 168
unique ingredients every day. Their study “Exposures Add Up” also showed that through using these
products on a daily basis, one in 13 women are exposed to ingredients that are known or probable
human carcinogens and one in 24 women are exposed to ingredients that are known or probable

                                                            
2
Sainio, E.-L., Jolanki, R., Hakala, E., & Kanerva, L. Metals and arsenic in eye shadows. Contact Dermatitis,
2001; 42(1): 5-10
3
Lead in Lipstick. Retrieved October 28, 2010, from http://www.safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=223
4
Lipstick and Lead: Questions and Answers. Retrieved October 28, 2010, from
http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm137224.htm
5
Tories won’t list leaded lipsticks. Canada.com. Retrieved from
http://www.canada.com/topics/news/national/story.html?id=4b8f58b0-c225-4925-8e6e-3b41a3687626
6
Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist - June 2010. Retrieved October 28, 2010, from http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-
spc/alt_formats/hecs-sesc/pdf/person/cosmet/info-ind-prof/_hot-list-critique/hotlist-liste_2010-eng.pdf
7
Draft Guidance on Heavy Metal Impurities in Cosmetics. Retrieved November 5, 2010, from http://www.hc-
sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/legislation/consultation/_cosmet/metal-metauxconsulteng.php
8
Impurities of Concern in Personal Care Products. Retrieved October 30, 2010, from
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/2007/02/04/impurities-of-concern-in-personalcareproducts
9
Draft Guidance on Heavy Metal Impurities in Cosmetics. Retrieved November 5, 2010, from http://www.hc-
sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/legislation/consultation/_cosmet/metalmetauxconsulteng.php
4

 
reproductive and developmental toxins, linked to impaired fertility or developmental harm for a baby in
the womb or a child10.

Shen et al. analysed 15 kinds of samples, including hair sprays, perfumes, deodorants, cream, lotion,
etc. for seven kinds of phthalates, i.e. DEP, DPP, DBP, BBP, DCHP, DEHP, DOP, and four parabens,
i.e. MPB, EPB, PPB, BPB, and found that only one of the 15 examined samples was free from
phthalates and parabens. The remaining 14 samples were found to contain at least three or more of these
phthalates and/or parabens. The predominant phthalates and parabens detected in the studied samples
were MPB, PPB, DEP, DBP, DCHP, and DEHP. The residue level was 1.22–5289 ppm11.

A recent assessment by WHO reported that mercury in skin lightening creams and soaps that are
commonly used in Asian and Central African nations is potentially dangerous as they have serious side
effects and can be fatal. Mercury present in fairness creams can cause anxiety, depression, nerve
damage, reduces skin resistance to infections, can cause seizures, numbness and even memory loss12.

Researchers in California recently found that most of the tested lip products (32) contained high
concentrations of titanium and aluminium. All examined products had detectable manganese. Lead was
detected in 75% samples tested. Approximately half (47%) of the samples contained Lead at
concentrations higher than the FDA-recommended maximum level of 0.1 ppm for Lead in candy likely
to be consumed frequently by small children. Chromium and Nickel were found in almost all samples.
Highest concentration of Chromium was 9.72 ppm and Nickel was 9.73 ppm. 13

4. Health Impact of Heavy Metals in Cosmetics

A variety of chemicals are used in cosmetics as ingredients and some are used as preservatives. These
chemicals have different health effects.

Hexavallent Chromium (Cr+6) is corrosive and allergic to the skin. Cr+6 compounds are enlisted as
carcinogens by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). Adverse effects of the Cr+6 on
the skin may include ulcerations, dermatitis, and allergic skin reactions. Inhalation of Cr+6 compounds
can result in ulceration and perforation of the mucous membranes of the nasal septum, irritation of the

                                                            
10
Exposures Add Up - Survey Results. Retrieved October 28, 2010, from
http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/research/exposures.php
11
Shen HY, Jiang HL, Mao HL, Pan G, Zhou Lu, Cao YF; J. Sep. Sci.; 2007, 30, 48–54
12
Mercury in skin lightening products: http://www.who.int/ipcs/assessment/public_health/mercury_flyer.pdf
13
Liu S., Hammond S. K., Rojas-Cheatham A.; Concentrations and Potential Health Risks of Metals in Lip
Products. Environmental Health Perspectives 2013; 121(6): 705 - 710
5

 
pharynx and larynx, asthmatic bronchitis, bronchospasms and edema. Respiratory symptoms may
include coughing and wheezing, shortness of breath, and nasal itch.

Nickel can cause allergic reaction when it comes in contact with the skin. Studies on animals show that
if consumed in high amounts, it affects kidneys, stomach and liver.

Mercury is used in cosmetic products such as skin whitening creams. Mercury is a neurotoxin. Mercury
has been used by many names such as “mercurous chloride”, calomel, mercuric, mercurio or mercury.
The prolonged use of products containing mercury can lead to inflammation of the liver, kidneys and
urinary tract. Presence of mercury in Skin Creams has become a global public health problem. Mercury
compounds are readily absorbed through the skin on topical application and have the tendency to
accumulate in the body. They may cause allergic reactions, skin irritation or neurotoxic
manifestations14. Mercury intoxication from cosmetics has been featured in numerous news stories in
recent years. There is evidence suggesting children who had been exposed in-utero from their mothers
experienced developmental issues. These children were affected with a range of symptoms including
motor difficulties, sensory problems and mental retardation15.

Distribution of mercury-containing creams and soaps is banned in the European Union16. A European
Union Directive specifies that mercury and mercury compounds are not allowed as ingredients in
cosmetics (including soaps, lotions, shampoos and skin bleaching products). However, phenyl mercuric
salts for use as a preservative in eye makeup and eye makeup removal products are allowed at
concentrations equal to or less than 0.007% by weight.

The California Department of Public Health (CDPH) is investigating several cases of mercury
poisoning due to an unlabeled face cream from Mexico used for lightening the skin, fading freckles and
age spots, and treating acne. The cream contained very high levels of mercury: 56,000 parts per million
(ppm) or 5.6%.17

                                                            
14
Regulations on the use of toxins in cosmetics: http://www.health-report.co.uk/cosmetic-regulations.htm
15
The Danger Of Mercury In Beauty Products: http://meliatop.com/the-danger-of-mercury-in-beauty products.html
16
IPCS (1991). Mercury-containing cream and soap. In: Inorganic mercury. Geneva, World Health
Organization, International Programme on Chemical Safety (Environmental Health Criteria 118;
http://www.inchem.org/documents/ehc/ehc/ehc118.htm#SectionNumber:3.5).
17
California Department of Public Health, Health Alert, Mercury Poisoning Linked to Use of Face Lightening
Cream: http://www.ehib.org/papers/CDPH_Mecury_Health_Alert_Skin_Cream.pdf
6

 
5. Regulations for Cosmetics

India

Cosmetics products in India are regulated under the Drugs and cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 and
Labeling Declarations by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). BIS sets the standards for cosmetics for the
products listed under Schedule ‘S’ of the Drugs and cosmetics Rules 194518.

Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has provided the specification for Skin Creams and Lipstick in the
Indian Standards (IS) 6608:2004 and 9875:1990 respectively. IS 6608:2004 says that if all the raw
materials requiring test for heavy metals have been so tested and comply with the requirements, then
the manufacturer may not test the finished cosmetic for heavy metals and arsenic.

The Dyes colors (pigments lakes) if used in the manufacture of skin creams and lipstick shall comply
with IS 4707 (Part I) subject to the provision of Schedule Q of Drugs and Cosmetics Act and Rules,
issued by the Government of India, and as amended from time to time. Other ingredients shall comply
with the provisions of IS 4707 (Part 2).

Rule 134 of Drugs and Cosmetics Rules has laid down restrictions on use of cosmetics containing Dyes,
Colors and Pigments other than those specified by the Bureau of Indian Standards (IS: 4707 Part 1 as
amended) and Schedule Q. The permitted Synthetic Organic Colors and Natural Organic Colors used in
the Cosmetic shall not contain more than:

• 2 ppm (parts per million) of Arsenic calculated as Arsenic Trioxide.

• 20 ppm of lead calculated as lead.
• 100 ppm of heavy metals other than lead calculated as the total of the respective metals.

These coloring agents are generally recognized as safe (GRAS). For some of these, purity requirements
are mentioned as laid down in the EEC directive of 1962. Maximum concentration in finished products
is mentioned in some.

Rule 145 of the Drugs and Cosmetics Rules prohibits use of lead and arsenic compounds in cosmetics
for the purpose of coloring. Rule 135 prohibits import of cosmetics in which a lead or arsenic
compound has been used for the coloring purpose. Rule 145 D and 135 A prohibits manufacture and
import respectively of cosmetics containing mercury compounds.

                                                            
18
The Drugs and Cosmetics act and rules: The manufacture of cosmetics for sale or distribution, Part XIV, rules
138

 
 Table 1: Limits for Heavy Metals in Cosmetics in India
Regulatory Mercury Lead Cadmium Arsenic Total
Body Heavy
Metals
Other than Eye Area Through permitted Synthetic Organic Colors and
Eye Area Products
Natural Organic Colors
Products
India (BIS) Prohibited ≤ 0.007% by 20 ppm of --- 2 ppm of 100 ppm
for weight lead Arsenic other than
intentional calculated as calculated lead.
use. lead as Calculated
Arsenic as total of
Trioxide respective
metals

European Union

EU cosmetic legislations are based on Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 on the
approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (Cosmetics Directive)19.
Manufacturers are responsible for ensuring that cosmetic products comply with the law before they are
marketed. The manufacturer or importer of cosmetics is responsible for demonstrating that the product
is safe for its intended use. Regulations are enforced at the national level, and each country in the EU
has an authoritative body that is responsible for upholding compliance. EU has banned about 1,328
chemicals in cosmetics. The chemicals prohibited in cosmetic products are listed in Annexure II of
Cosmetic Regulations. Arsenic, Lead cyanide, human tissue etc. are prohibited in cosmetics

USA

In the US, cosmetics are regulated by Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)20. It is the
role of the FDA to oversee the compliance with these regulations. However, as opposed to drugs,
cosmetic products and ingredients are not subject to FDA premarket approval with the exception to
color additives. The regulations published by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) are all codified
in Title 21, Code of Federal Regulations (21 CFR) applicable to Cosmetics4 stated at 21 CFR, parts 700
to 740 (21 CFR 700 to 740) defines ingredients as “Any single chemical entity or mixture used as a
component in the manufacture of a cosmetic product.”

                                                            
19
EU legislations: The rules governing cosmetic products in the European Union, Council Directive 76/768/EEC.
Vol.1 cosmetic legislations (1999), article 7a (d).
20
http://www.fda.gov/regulatoryinformation/legislation/federalfooddrugandcosmeticactfdcact/default.htm
8

 
The FD&C Act prohibits any product or ingredient that is a “poisonous or deleterious substance which
may render [the product] injurious to users under the conditions of use prescribed in the labeling.”

FDA addresses the presence of trace impurities in cosmetics on a case-by-case basis. Requirements for
specific cosmetics are listed in 21 CFR part 700. For heavy metals, FDA has set a limit of 1 ppm
mercury in most cosmetics under 21 CFR 700.13 (a limit of 65 ppm is permitted in certain eye area
cosmetics) and prohibits the use of zirconium in aerosol cosmetics under 21 CFR 700.16. In addition,
FDA has established specifications for lead, arsenic, and mercury in most color additives. A few more
heavy metal specifications have been established for certain color additives.

Health Canada

The Canadian Food and Drugs Act (F&DA) stipulates that “No person shall sell any cosmetic that:

a) has in or on it any substance that may cause injury to the health of the user when the cosmetic is
used,
b) consists in whole or in part of any filthy or decomposed substance or of any foreign matter; or
c) was manufactured, prepared, preserved, packaged or stored under unsanitary conditions.”

In December 2008, Health Canada released a Draft Guidance on Heavy Metal Impurities in Cosmetics
for lead, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and antimony21.

6. Objectives of the Study

Use of cosmetic products is increasing rapidly in India and various chemicals including the heavy
metals are used in the cosmetics which pose health risk to consumers. The present study was conducted
to determine heavy metals - lead, cadmium, chromium and nickel in lipsticks, lip-balm and anti-ageing
creams and mercury in fairness creams available in the Delhi market. The results were compared with
the available standards.

                                                            
21
Health Canada (2011). Heavy metals in cosmetics—fact sheet. Ottawa, Ontario, Health Canada (http://www.hc-
sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/pubs/indust/heavy_metals-metaux_lourds/index-eng.php).
9

 
7. Material and Methods

Sampling Methodology

30 samples of lipsticks, 32 samples of fairness creams, 8 samples of lip-balm and 3 samples of anti-
ageing creams were purchased from local market of Delhi. The details of the samples are presented in
Table 2 and Table 3.

Equipment: Atomic Absorption Spectrometer (Thermo) Solar M-6 Series, equipped with Flame and
Flameless techniques was used for analysis.

Glassware: All the glassware were cleaned with detergent and 10% nitric acid and rinsed thoroughly
with distilled water before use.

Chemicals: All the chemicals used were purchased from E Merck. The water used in all the
experiments was ultrapure water obtained from Elga water purification system.

Sample preparation for Lead, Cadmium, Chromium and Nickel Determination

Lipstick, lip-balm and anti-ageing creams were analyzed for lead, cadmium, chromium and nickel.
Sample preparation for the determination of Lead, Cadmium, Chromium and Nickel was done
following the method of Chauhan et al22.

About 1.0 g of each sample was digested in 5.0 mL mixture of concentrated acid HNO3:HCLO4 (3:1)
for 2-3 hours on a hot plate at 900C. Then 3.0 mL of acid mixture was again added and then again
heated for 2-3 hours to complete the digestion. The above digested samples were cooled and about 5.0
mL ultra pure water was added mixed well and volume made upto 25 mL in volumetric flask. The
solution was then finally filtered through Whatman filter paper (Number 41). The clear solution was
used for metal quantification.

Sample preparation for Mercury Determination

Fairness creams were analyzed for mercury. Application note provided by Clark et. al. of CETAC
Technologies of USA was used for the sample preparation for mercury estimation23. The samples were
weighed (~0.2g) into the beaker. The samples were predigested with 2 mL of H2SO4 and 2 mL HNO3
for 1.5 hours at 800C. This initial predigest step dissolved/dispersed the samples and then allowed to
cool to room temperature. Then 7.0 mL of 5% KMnO4 and 5 mL 3% HCl were added to each beaker
                                                            
22
Chauhan AS, Bhadauria R, Singh AK, Lodhi SS, Chaturvedi DK, Tomar VS. Determination of Lead and
Cadmium in cosmetic products. J. Chem. Pharm. Res., 2010, 2(6):92-97
23
David H. Clarke, Jeffrey A. Forsberg, and John L. McQuatters; Mercury Determination in Cosmetics, Using
the CETAC QuickTrace™ M-7500 CVAAS; CETAC Technologies, Omaha, NE 
10

 
and then heated at 950C for 2 hours. After again cooling to room temperature, 3.0 mL of 12%
hydroxylamine solution was added to reduce the KMnO4. The beakers were swirled to assure complete
reaction with the excess KMnO4. They were then brought up to a final volume of 25 mL with 3% HCl
with thorough mixing prior to instrument analysis of the samples.

Sample analysis for Lead, Cadmium, Chromium and Nickel Determination

Lead, Cadmium, Chromium and Nickel were determined using flame atomic absorption spectrometry.
Air-acetylene flame was used for Lead, Cadmium and Nickel while air-acetylene-nitrous oxide flame
was used for Chromium determination. Standard solutions were prepared in five different
concentrations for each metal separately to obtain calibration curve for quantitative analysis. All the
measurements were run in triplicate for the samples and standard solutions. Deuterium lamp was used
for background correction.

Sample analysis for Mercury Determination

Digested samples were analyzed for Mercury using flameless atomic absorption spectrometry. Standard
solutions were prepared in five different concentrations to obtain calibration curve for quantitative
analysis. All the measurements were run in triplicate for the samples and standard solutions. Deuterium
lamp was used for background correction.

Recovery test was performed for all the metals. Recovery was found to be more than 90% in all the
cases.

11

 
8. Results and Discussions
A total of 30 lipsticks, 8 lip-balms and 3 anti-ageing creams were tested for lead, cadmium, total
chromium and nickel and 32 samples of fairness creams (26 for women and 6 for men) for mercury.

a. Lipstick

Chromium: Total chromium was detected in 50% (15 out of 30) samples in the range of 0.45 ppm to
17.83 ppm (Table 4).

Total Cr detected in lipstick samples was compared with Average Daily Intake (ADI) of Cr+6.
Recognizing the need for extra precaution, all Cr has been assumed as Cr+6. This assumption is made by
most health regulators, including the USEPA while setting standards. 24

The ADI value of 0.0001 mg/day for a 50 kg woman for Cr+6 derived by Liu et. al. (2013) was used for
estimating exposure risk25. This ADI value is derived based on the cancer risk posed by Cr+6. An
average use of 24 mg/day and high use of 87 mg/day of lipstick suggested by Loretz et. al. (2005)26
were used for estimating the exposure risk.

In case of average use of 24 mg/day of lipstick, the estimated intake was in the range of 10.8% to
427.9% of ADI in 15 samples detected with chromium and was more than 100% in 4 samples (Table
5). While considering the high use of 87 mg/day of lipstick, it was in the range of 39.2% to 1551.2% of
ADI and was more than 100% in case of 13 samples out of 15 samples detected with chromium (Table
5).

The highest concentration of 17.83 ppm of total chromium was found in Hearts & Tarts (080V) shade
of ColorBar lipstick which was 427.9% of ADI in case of average use of lipstick and 1551.2% in case
of high use. The second highest concentration - 13.9 ppm was found in Labsolu Nu-204 shade of
Lancome lipstick which was 333.6% of ADI in case of average use of lipstick and 1209.3% in case of
high use (Table 5).

The toxicity of chromium compounds depends on the oxidation state of the metal. Hexavalent form is
more toxic than trivalent form. Hexavalent chromium is recognized as a human carcinogen when it is

                                                            
24
USEPA, Chromium in Drinking Water:
http://water.epa.gov/drink/info/chromium/index.cfm?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaig
n=Feed%3A+Region3_WaterNews+(U.S.+EPA%3A+Mid+Atlantic+Region+Water+News+)
25
Liu S., Hammond S. K., Rojas-Cheatham A.; Concentrations and Potential Health Risks of Metals in Lip
Products. Environmental Health Perspectives 2013; 121(6): 705 - 710
26
 Loretz L.J., Api A.M., Barraj L.M., Burdick J., Dressler W.E., Gettings S.D., Han Hsu H., Pan Y.H.L., Re T.A.,
Renskers K.J., Rothenstein A., Scrafford C.G., Sewall C. Exposure data for cosmetic products: lipstick, body
lotion, and face cream. Food and Chemical Toxicology 2005; 43: 279–291 
12

 
inhaled. Chronic inhalation of Hexavalent chromium has been shown to increase risk of lung cancer and
may also damage the small capillaries in kidneys and intestines. Other adverse health effects associated
with Hexavalent chromium exposure, according to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and
Health (NIOSH), include skin irritation or ulceration, allergic contact dermatitis, occupational asthma,
nasal irritation and ulceration, perforated nasal septa, rhinitis, nosebleed, respiratory irritation, nasal
cancer, sinus cancer, eye irritation and damage, perforated eardrums, kidney damage, liver damage,
pulmonary congestion and edema, epigastric pain and erosion and discoloration of teeth27.

Nickel: It was detected in 43.3% (13 out of 30) samples in the range of 0.57 ppm to 9.18 ppm. The
highest concentration of 9.18 ppm was found in Labsolu Nu-204 shade of Lancome lipstick. The
second highest concentration of 5.47 ppm was found in Hearts & Tarts (080V) shade of ColorBar
lipstick (Table 4).

High levels of Nickel exposure can lead to health effects depending on route and the kind of nickel
exposed to28. Certain types of nickel (oxidic, sulphidic, and soluble nickel) were considered to be toxic
because of concern to health due to carcinogenicity29. Metallic nickel and alloys have been classified as
possibly carcinogenic to humans30. Allergy to nickel is common and it can cause severe contact
dermatitis31. The first case of nickel allergy caused by eye shadow was reported twelve years ago and it
has been reported that even 1 ppm may trigger a pre-existing allergy32.

Lead and Cadmium were not detected in any of the samples.

b. Lip-balm and Anti-ageing Creams: None of the heavy metals tested were detected in lip-balm and
anti-ageing creams.

                                                            
27
http://environment.about.com/od/healthenvironment/f/Hexavalent-Chromium-Health-Risks.htm
28
Report on Human Biomonitoring of Environmental Chemicals in Canada: Results of the Canadian Health
Measures Survey Cycle 1 (2007–2009). Ottawa.
29
http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ewh-semt/alt_formats/hecs-sesc/pdf/pubs/contaminants/psl1-
lsp1/compounds_nickel_composes/nickel-eng.pdf
30
Agents Classified by the IARC Monographs, Volumes 1–100. Retrieved November 3, 2010, from
http://monographs.iarc.fr/ENG/Classification/index.php
31
Report on Human Biomonitoring of Environmental Chemicals in Canada: Results of the Canadian Health
Measures Survey Cycle 1 (2007–2009). Ottawa.
32
Sainio, E.L., Jolanki, R., Hakala, E., & Kanerva, L. (2001). Metals and arsenic in eye shadows. Contact
Dermatitis, 42(1), 5-10.
13

 
c. Mercury in Fairness (Skin Whitening) Creams

Mercury was detected in about 44% (14 of 32) samples in the range of 0.10 ppm to 1.97 ppm as total
mercury (Table 6). According to the Drugs and Cosmetic Act, mercury in Fairness creams is prohibited.
Therefore 14 samples that contained mercury violated the Act.

The concentration of total mercury detected in the skin whitening creams were converted to
concentration of mercuric chloride (HgCl2) because skin whitening creams commonly use inorganic
mercury in the form of ammoniated mercuric chloride and mercuric iodide (Table 6). Conversion of
total Hg to HgCl2 is done by considering the molecular weight of Hg as 200.592 and that of HgCl2 as
271.496. It is assumed that all mercury (Total Hg) in the skin whitening creams is HgCl2.

Oral Reference Dose (RfD) of HgCl2 set by USEPA is 0.0003 mg/kg-day which translates into an
Average Daily Intake (ADI) for a 50 kg person as 0.015 mg. Loretz et. al. (2005) has estimated that the
average use of creams is 2.05 g/day and high use is 3.99 g/day33. Considering 100% dermal absorption
the amount of HgCl2 obtained after conversion was compared as percentage the above ADI of HgCl2
(0.015 mg for a 50 kg person) (Table 6).

Aroma Magic Fair Lotion had the highest mercury concentration of 1.97 ppm as total mercury (2.67
ppm equivalent HgCl2) which is 36.4% of ADI for average use of cream (2.05 g/day) and considering
the high use (3.99 g/day) it is 70.9% of ADI (Table 6). Fair and Lovely Ayurvedic Care had the lowest
concentration 0.10 ppm as total mercury and 0.14 ppm as HgCl2 which is 1.8% of ADI for average use
of cream (2.05 g/day) and considering the high use (3.99 g/day) it is 3.6% of ADI.

Out of 6 Fairness Creams for men, mercury was detected in only one sample (Garnier Men Power
Light) at a level of 0.24 ppm as total mercury.

According to the FDA, the permissible limit for mercury in Cosmetics other than eye products is 1 ppm.
Out of 32 samples tested three samples (10.7%) exceeded the limit of 1 ppm given by FDA (Table 6).

Repeated application of these skin whitening creams could cause cumulative effect of prolonged low
level mercury exposure, which could lead to nephritic syndrome Mercury can also be transferred from

                                                            
33
Loretz L.J., Api A.M., Barraj L.M., Burdick J., Dressler W.E., Gettings S.D., Han Hsu H., Pan Y.H.L., Re T.A.,
Renskers K.J., Rothenstein A., Scrafford C.G., Sewall C. Exposure data for cosmetic products: lipstick, body
lotion, and face cream. Food and Chemical Toxicology 2005; 43: 279–291 
14

 
the mother to the fetus during pregnancy34. Mercury from soap and cream has been reported to be
readily absorbed through the skin and via inhalation.

9. Conclusions

In 50% of the lipsticks (15 of 30) Chromium was found with highest being 17.83 ppm in Hearts & Tarts
(080V) shade of ColorBar lipstick.

The estimated intake of chromium from lipsticks was in the range of 10.8% to 427.9% of ADI in 15
samples detected with chromium in case of average use of 24 mg/day of lipstick, and was more than
100% in 4 samples. While considering the high use of 87 mg/day of lipstick, it was more than 100% in
case of 13 samples out of 15 samples in the range of 39.2% to 1551.2% of ADI.

Nickel was detected in 43.3% (13 of 30) lipsticks. Highest concentration of 9.18 ppm was detected in
Labsolu Nu shade-204 of Lancome lipstick.

Hearts & Tarts (080V) shade of ColorBar lipstick contained highest amount of Chromium and also 5.47
ppm Nickel. Similarly Lancome (Labsolu Nu-204) lipstick contained 13.9 and 9.18 ppm of Chromium
and Nickel.

No other heavy metals tested (Lead and Cadmium) were detected in the lipstick samples tested.

Mercury concentration in the fairness creams analyzed ranged from 0 - 1.97 ppm. About 44% of the
samples had mercury above the Indian permissible limit, which is zero.

Three samples (10.7%) were above the threshold limit of 1 ppm set by the USFDA.

None of the heavy metals tested were detected in lip-balm and anti-ageing creams.

                                                            
34
Rosenman KD, Valciukas JA, Glickman L, Meyers BR, Cinotti A. Sensitive indicators of inorganic mercury
toxicity. Arch Environ Health.1986 Jul-Aug; 41(4):208-15.

15

 
 Table 2: Cosmetic Samples Purchased from Markets in Delhi
S. Sample Brand Color Batch Manufactured By Imported &/or Use Remark
No. Code No. Marketed By Before
Lipstick
1 LS 01 Body Shop Ruby Sparkle XJ802CD Made in Italy The Body Shop 07/2015 Reference No.
(12) 826975
2 LS 02 Chambor Rouge --- COPARCOS S.A, Rue de 11/2015 SPF 15,
Plump+ (RP+ Bains, 33, 1211, Geneva 8, Reference 2910
746) Switzerland
3 LS 03 Clinique Extreme Pink A 10 Made in USA SPF 15
(19)
4 LS 04 Clinique A Different A 21 Made in USA
Grape
5 LS 05 ColorBar Burnt Orange AKA12 Aero Pharma Pvt. Ltd., W – ColorBar Cosmetics Pvt. 08/2015 SPF 15
(017) 34(B), TTC Industrial Area, Ltd., 4, Community Centre,
MIDC Rabel, Navi Mumbai - New Friends Colony, New
400701 Delhi - 110025
6 LS 06 ColorBar Bitter ALA12 Aero Pharma Pvt. Ltd., W – ColorBar Cosmetics Pvt. 09/2015 SPF 15
Chocolate 34(B), TTC Industrial Area, Ltd., 4, Community Centre,
(028) MIDC Rabel, Navi Mumbai - New Friends Colony, New
400701 Delhi - 110025
7 LS 07 ColorBar Hearts & Tarts 116 Viva Cosmetics, Asangaon, ColorBar Cosmetics Pvt. 11/2015
(080V) Thane - 421601 Ltd., 4, Community Centre,
New Friends Colony, New
Delhi - 110025
8 LS 08 Dior Mazette (028) Parfums Christian Dior Orient TARZ Distribution Pvt. Ltd., 01/2015
(Rouge Dior) FZCO 201, Ackruti Star, MIDC,
Andheri (E), Mumbai -
400093
9 LS 09 Dior Fireworks Parfums Christian Dior Orient TARZ Distribution Pvt. Ltd., 09/2015
(Dior Addict (756) FZCO 201, Ackruti Star, MIDC,
Extreme) Andheri (E), Mumbai -
400093
10 LS 10 Estee Lauder Fuchsia Fever AA2 Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, ELCA Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 10/2015 Made in
(60) N. Y. 10022 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Belgium

16

 
 Tolstoy Road, New Delhi –
110001

11 LS 11 Estee Lauder Scarlet Siren A92 Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, ELCA Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 09/2015 Made in
(73) N. Y. 10022 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Belgium
Tolstoy Road, New Delhi -
110001
12 LS 12 Lakme Red Hot (43) 094E12 Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Use before
(Absolute – 4, I. Industrial Estate, Unit – 4, I. Industrial Estate, 24 months
Matte) Haridwar - 249403 Haridwar - 249403 from Pkd
13 LS 13 Lakme Bridal Dream 226J12 Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Use before
(44) – 4, I. Industrial Estate, Unit – 4, I. Industrial Estate, 24 months
Haridwar - 249403 Haridwar - 249403 from Pkd
14 LS 14 Lakme Pink Romance 160012 Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Use before
(206) – 4, I. Industrial Estate, Unit – 4, I. Industrial Estate, 24 months
Haridwar - 249403 Haridwar - 249403 from Pkd
15 LS 15 Lakme Enrich Satins Not Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit Hindustan Unilever Ltd., 09/2015
(352) Readable – 4, I. Industrial Estate, Unit – 4, I. Industrial Estate,
Haridwar - 249403 Haridwar - 249403
16 LS 16 Lancome L’ABSOLU 62H803 Lancome Luxury Products L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., A- 03/2015 Made in France
NU (204) LLC, New York, NY 10017 Wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
Dist. Lancome Canada, Futurex Building, N. M.
Montreal, H4T1K5 Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Mumbai - 400013
17 LS 17 L’Oreal (Paris) Intense Plum 16J800 L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., A- 05/2015
(374) Wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
Futurex Building, N. M.
Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Mumbai - 400013
18 LS 18 MAC (Satin Paramount M3EW Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, Elca Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 05/2015 Made in
Lipstick) (A52) N. Y. 10022 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Canada
Dist. By – Make-up Art Tolstoy Road, New Delhi -
Cosmetics, Toronto, Ontario, 110001
Canada M5VIR7
19 LS 19 MAC Plumful (A62) M31A Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, Elca Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 06/2015 Made in
(Lustre N. Y. 10022 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Canada
17

 
 Lipstick) Dist. By – Make-up Art Tolstoy Road, New Delhi -
Cosmetics, Toronto, Ontario, 110001
Canada M5VIR7
20 LS 20 MAC Cockney M31A Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, Elca Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 08/2015 Made in
(Lustre (A82) N. Y. 10022. Dist. By – Make- 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Canada
Lipstick) up Art Cosmetics, Toronto, Tolstoy Road, New Delhi -
Ontario, Canada M5VIR7 110001
21 LS 21 MAC So Chaud M2LP Estee Lauder, Dist. New York, Elca Cosmetics Pvt. Ltd., 08/2015 Made in
(Matte (A82) N. Y. 10022 202-206, Tolstoy House, 15 Canada
Lipstick) Dist. By – Make-up Art Tolstoy Road, New Delhi -
Cosmetics, Toronto, Ontario, 110001
Canada M5VIR7
22 LS 22 Maxfactor Pomegranate 2137 Proctor & Gamble UK, KT13 10/2015 Made in Ireland
(665) OXP, UK

CH – 1213, Petit Lancy 1

23 LS 23 Maybelline Hooked On 20J701 Maybelline LLC, New York, L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., A- 03/2015 Made in USA
(Colorsensation Pink (065) N. Y. 10017 Wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
al) Futurex Building, N. M.
Dist. – Maybelline Canada, Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Montreal - H4T TK5 Mumbai - 400013
24 LS 24 Maybelline Fatal Red 16J802 L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., A- 04/2015
(Colorsensation (530) Wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
al) Futurex Building, N. M.
Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Mumbai - 400013
25 LS 25 Maybelline Endless Raisin 20J401 Maybelline LLC, New York, L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., A- 03/2015 Made in USA
(Super Stay) (090) N. Y. 10017 Wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
Futurex Building, N. M.
Dist. – Maybelline Canada, Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Montreal - H4T TK5 Mumbai - 400013
26 LS 26 Revlon Ruby (85) 122651 G. S. Pharmabutor Pvt. Ltd., Modi-Revlon Pvt. Ltd, 08/2015
(Color Burst) (Unit – II), Plot No. 58,59, 66 (Umesh Modi Group
& 67, Sector-3, I. I. E., Company), New Delhi -
Pantnagar, Rudrapur, 110019
Uttrakhand - 263153
18

 
 27 LS 27 Revlon (Super Frost Grape Not G. S. Pharmabutor Pvt. Ltd., Modi-Revlon Pvt. Ltd, 06/2015
Lustrous) Juice (164) Readable (Unit – II), Plot No. 58,59, 66 (Umesh Modi Group
& 67, Sector-3, I. I. E., Company), New Delhi -
Pantnagar, Rudrapur, 110019
Uttrakhand - 263153
28 LS 28 Revlon (Super Frost Copper Not G. S. Pharmabutor Pvt. Ltd., Modi-Revlon Pvt. Ltd, 09/2014
Lustrous) Glow Berry Readable (Unit – II), Plot No. 58,59, 66 (Umesh Modi Group
(311) & 67, Sector-3, I. I. E., Company), New Delhi -
Pantnagar, Rudrapur, 110019
Uttrakhand – 263153

29 LS 29 Yves Saint Satin/Shine 7DC Yves Saint Laurent Parfums, No SPF 8 Made in
Laurent (YSL) Cassis Rose 92512, NEUILLY, Codex information France
(Lip Twins) Black Current France
Rose (10)
30 LS 30 Yves Saint Rose Libertin 0KCA Yves Saint Laurent Parfums, No Made in France
Laurent (YSL) Satiny 92512, NEUILLY, Codex information
(Pure Color) Radiance (26) France
Lip Balm
1 LB 01 The Body Shop Lip Care SPF
15
2 LB 02 The Body Shop Born Lippy
Plum Lip
Balm
3 LB 03 Himalaya Lip Balm 24200833 The Himalaya Drug Company, 11/2015
R Plot No. C-15, MIDC, Five
Star Industrial Area, Shendra,
Aurangabad (M. S.) - 431201
4 LB 04 Lotus Fresh Mint B 01 Lotus Herbals Color Lotus Herbals Ltd., B-9, 04/2015 SPF 15
Cosmetics, 80-B, Jharmajri, Sector 58, Noida, U. P. -
Baddi, Distt. Solan, H. P. 201301
5 LB 05 Lotus Velvety Rose B 04 Lotus Herbals Color Lotus Herbals Ltd., B-9, 10/2015 SPF 15
Cosmetics, 80-B, Jharmajri, Sector 58, Noida, U. P. -
Baddi, Distt. Solan, H. P. 201301
6 LB 06 Maybelline Enriched with 6J130 Made in China L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., 12/2014 SPF 20
New York Centella Peninsula Towers, Lower
19

 
 (Baby Lips) Essence Parel, Mumbai - 400013
7 LB 07 Maybelline Berry Crush fJ257M Made in Thailand L’Oreal India Pvt. Ltd., 03/2015 SPF 16
New York A-wing, 8th Floor, Marathon
(Baby Lips Futurex Building, N. M.
Color) Joshi Road, Lower Parel,
Mumbai - 400013
8 LB 08 Nivea Essential Care 22419810 Beiersdorf AG, NIVEA India Pvt. Ltd., Hyde 11/2014 Made in
Troplowitzstrasse 10, 22529 Park, 301, Saki Vihar Road, Germany
Hamburg, Germany Andheri (E), Mumbai -
400072
Anti Ageing Cream
1 AAC 01 L’Oreal (Paris) Youth Code 28J302 Made in
(Rejuvenating Germany
Anti-wrinkle
Day Cream)
2 AAC 02 Olay Total Effects 2184PRF Distr. By – Proctor & Gamble, Imported for – Proctor & Not
(7 in one, Cincinnati, OH - 45202 Gamble INC., Toronto, ON mentioned
Anti-aging M5W 1C5
Night Firming
Treatment)
3 AAC 03 Ponds Age Miracle B040 Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit Hindustan Unilever Ltd., 06/2014 SPF 15 PA++
(Cell ReGEN – 4, I. Industrial Estate, 165/166, Backbay
Day Cream) Haridwar - 249403 Reclamation, Mumbai -
400020

20

 
 Table 3: Fairness Creams Analyzed for Mercury

S. No. Code No. Name Manufactured By Date of Mfg. Imported by Marketed by Use before Batch No.
Fairness Creams for Men
Emami Limited, College Nagar,
Emami Fair and Abhoypur, North Guwahati, AP785
1 4 Handsome Assam - 781031 Mar - 2012 August - 2014
Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit –
Fair & Lovely 8, Plot No. 1-(1-H), Sec 1A, B91
MAXFairness For Sidcul Ranipur, Haridwar - 24 Months from
2 3 MEN 249403 08/07/2012 Pkd.
Aero Pharma (Silvassa), Preeti
Indl. Estate, Survey No. 127/1, Hindustan 24 Months from B008
3 25 Vaseline MENface Amli , Silvassa - 396230 Nov - 2012 Unilever Ltd. Pkd.
L'OREAL L'OREAL FJ090
4 7 L'Oreal Men Expert L’Oreal India Private Ltd. Mar - 2012 Singapore Pte Ltd. Philippines
Garnier Men Power L'Oreal India Private Ltd., 36 Months from B534937
5 5 Light Chakan, Pune - 410501 18/04/2012 Pkd.
Beiersdorf (Thailand) Co. Ltd., 21171577
Nivea For Men 163 Bangplee Industrial Estate,
6 29 Advance Whitening Samutprakarn 10540, Thailand Mar - 2012 Nivea India Pvt. Nivea India Pvt. August - 2014
Fairness Creams for Women
Garnier Skin L'Oreal India Private Ltd., 36 Months from B536527
7 6 Naturals, Light Chakan, Pune - 410501 11/05/2012 Pkd.
CavinKare Pvt. Ltd., Plot No. 16 U. B. 09
Fairever Fairness & 17, Sec – 04, IIE, Sidcul, CavinKare Pvt. 24 Months from
8 2 Cream Haridwar - 249403 Apr - 2012 Ltd. Pkd.
Aero Pharma (Silvassa), Preeti
Lakme Perfect Industrial. Estate, Survey No. Hindustan 24 Months from B 034
9 14 Radiance 127/1, Amli , Silvassa - 396230 Aug - 2012 Unilever Ltd. Pkd.
Lotus Micro Lotus Herbals 36 Months from B 12
10 27 Emulsion Kanidi Cosmeceuticals Dec - 2011 Ltd. Pkd.
L'Oreal India Private Ltd., 36 Months from B540605
11 8 L'Oreal Pearl Perfect Chakan, Pune - 410501 04/07/2012 Pkd.
12 1 Fair & Lovely Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit – 06/07/2012 24 Months from
21

 
 Advanced Multi 1, Tinsukia, Assam - 786151 Pkd. B07D
Vitamin Daily
Fairness Expert
Bio Veda Action Research
Company, Khasra No. 439/42, 12-005
Biotique, Bio 441/43 526/442/43, Mauja
Coconut, Whitening Rampur Ghat, Tehsil Paonta Bio Veda
and Brightening Sahib, Dist. – Sirmour, H. P. - Action Research 36 Months from
13 21 Cream 173025 Mar - 2012 Company Pkd.
Kanidi Cosmeceuticals, 80C, B 03
Lotus Cocofair Jharmajri, Baddi, Distt. Solan, Lotus Herbals
14 18 Cream H. P. Ltd. Jan - 2015
Beiersdorf (Thailand) Co. Ltd.,
163, Bang Plee Industrial Estate, 10350277
Nivea Visage, Bangna Trad Rd, Km 24,
15 20 Sparkling Glow Samutprakarn – 10540, Thailand Jan - 2011 Nivea India Pvt. Nivea India Pvt. June - 2013
Lotus Herbals
Kanidi Cosmeceuticals, 80C, Ltd., B-9, Sec – B 02
Lotus Herbals Fair Jharmajri, Baddi, Distt. Solan, 58, Noida, UP -
16 28 Gel H. P. 201301 April - 2015
VLCC Personal Care Ltd., Plot
No. – 11 & 12, Sec 6A, Sidcul, 12002
IIE, Hardwar, Uttarakhgand - 36 Months from
17 23 VLCC Enbrighten 246403 Mar - 2012 Pkd.
Procter & Gamble Home
Products Ltd., Plot No. 01, B6911
Industrial Area, Katha, P. O. 36 Months from
18 22 Olay Natural White Baddi, Solan, H. P. - 173205 Aug - 2012 Pkd.
Blossom Kochhar Beauty
Products Pvt. Ltd., Plot No. –
90A, Khasra No – 68, Shiv FALR-13/12
Ganga Industrial Estate, Village
– Lakeshri, Post – Bhagwanpur,
Blossom Kochhar Tehsil – Roorkee, Dist.– 24 Months from
19 24 Aroma Magic Haridwar, Uttarakhand - 247667 Sep - 2012 Pkd.
20 19 Lotus Whiteglow Gel Kanidi Cosmeceuticals, 80C, Batch No – Lotus Herbals October 2014
22

 
 Cream Jharmajri, Baddi, Distt. Solan, B-48 Ltd. B 48
H. P.
Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit –
8, Plot No. 1-(1-H), Sec 1A, B 05
Fair & Lovely Anti Sidcul Ranipur, Haridwar - 24 Months from
21 11 Marks 249403 20/03/2012 Pkd.
Emami Limited, College Nagar,
Emami Malai Keshar Abhoypur, North Guwahati, 24 Months from AU 043
22 16 Cold Cream Assam - 781031 Sep - 2011 Pkd.
Elder Pharmaceuticals Ltd., Plot
No. – 103, Gondpur Industrial BPAX1018
Shahnaz Husain Fair Area, Paonta Sahib, Dist. – 24 Months from
23 15 One Sirmour, H. P. 173025 May - 2011 Pkd.
Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit –
8, Plot No. 1-(1-H), Sec 1A, B 34
Fair & Lovely Sidcul Ranipur, Haridwar - 24 Months from
24 10 Ayurvedic Care 249403 28/05/2012 Pkd.
Johnson & Johnson Korea Ltd.,
140-20, Song Jeong Dong, Not mentioned
Neutrogena, Fine Heung Duck Ku, Cheong Ju Johnson & Johnson & 24 Months from
25 17 Fairness City, Chung Buk, Korea 10/04/2012 Johnson Ltd. Johnson Ltd. Pkd.
Hindustan Unilever Ltd., Unit –
8, Plot No. 1-(1-H), Sec 1A, B 33
Fair & Lovely Winter Sidcul Ranipur, Haridwar - 24 Months from
26 9 Fairness 249403 03/10/2012 Pkd.
L. B. C. P., Unit – II, Haridwar - 24 Months from B 067
27 13 Ponds White Beauty 249403 25/05/2012 Pkd.
ITC Ltd., Plot No 01, Sec – 11, B162A 22
28 12 Vivel Active Fair IIE, Ranipur Haridwar - 249403 Nov - 2011 April - 2013
Hindustan 24 Months from
29 26 Lakme Aero Pharma Jul - 2012 Unilever Ltd. Pkd.
The Himalaya Drug Company,
182, Village Gurumajra, 16200408M
Himalaya Herbals Kishanpura, Tehsil Nalagarh,
30 30 Fairness Cream Distt. Solan, H. P. - 174101 May - 2012 April - 2015

23

 
 G. S. Pharmbutor Pvt. Ltd., Unit
– II, Plot No. – 58, 59, 66 & 67, IN123001
Revlon Touch & Sec – 03, I. I. E. Pantnagar, Modi-Revlon 36 Months from
31 31 Glow Rudrapur, Uttrakhand - 263153 Oct - 2012 Pvt.Ltd. Pkd.
Jovees Pearl Jovees Herbal Care, Plot No. –
Whitening Face 16, Sector 03, I. I. E., Pant 36 Months from 1618
32 32 Cream Nagar, 263146, Uttarakhand Mar - 2012 Pkd.

24

 
 Table 4: Heavy Metals in Lipstick, Lip-balm and Anti-aging Creams (ppm)

S. Sample Sample Lead Cadmium Chromium Nickel

No Code
Lipstick
1 Bodyshop (Ruby Sparkle - 12) LS 01 ND ND 2.91 1.65
2 Chambor (Rouge Plump - 746) LS 02 ND ND ND ND
3 Clinique (Extreme Pink - 19) LS 03 ND ND ND ND
4 Clinique (Different Grape) LS 04 ND ND ND ND
5 ColorBar (Burnt Orange - 017) LS 05 ND ND 1.62 ND
6 ColorBar (Bitter Chocolate - 028) LS 06 ND ND 2.55 ND
7 ColorBar (Hearts & Tarts - LS 07 ND ND 17.83 5.47
080V)
8 Dior (Mazette - 028) LS 08 ND ND ND ND
9 Dior (Fireworks - 756) LS 09 ND ND ND ND
10 Estee Lauder (Fuchsia Fever - LS 10 ND ND ND 0.99
60)
11 Estee Lauder (Scarlet Siren - 73) LS 11 ND ND 1.34 2.36
12 Lakme (Red Hot - 43) LS 12 ND ND 0.45 2.47
13 Lakme (Bridal Dream - 44) LS 13 ND ND 1.39 0.57
14 Lakme (Pink Romance - 206) LS 14 ND ND ND ND
15 Lakme (Enrich Satin - 352) LS 15 ND ND ND 1.09
16 Lancome (Labsolu Nu - 204) LS 16 ND ND 13.90 9.18
17 L’Oreal (Intense Plum - 374) LS 17 ND ND ND ND
18 MAC (Paramount - A52) LS 18 ND ND 1.14 2.19
19 MAC (Plumful - A62) LS 19 ND ND 1.22 ND
20 MAC (Cockney - A82) LS 20 ND ND 2.32 ND
21 MAC (So chaud - A82) LS 21 ND ND 5.75 3.42
22 Maxfactor (Pomegranate - 665) LS 22 ND ND 1.59 ND
23 Maybelline (Hooked Pink - 065) LS 23 ND ND 5.27 2.21
24 Maybelline (Fatal Red - 530) LS 24 ND ND ND ND
25 Maybelline (Endless Raisin -090) LS 25 ND ND ND ND
26 Revlon (Ruby - 85) LS 26 ND ND ND ND
27 Revlon (Frost Grape Juice - 164) LS 27 ND ND ND ND
28 Revlon (Copper Glow Berry-311) LS 28 ND ND 2.43 2.18
29 YSL (Current Rose - 10) LS 29 ND ND ND 0.99
30 YSL (Satiny Radiance - 26) LS 30 ND ND ND ND
Lip-balm
1 The Body Shop (Lip Care) LB 01 ND ND ND ND
2 The Body Shop (Plum Lip-balm) LB 02 ND ND ND ND
3 Himalaya (Lip-balm) LB 03 ND ND ND ND
4 Lotus (Fresh mint) LB 04 ND ND ND ND
5 Lotus (Velvety Rose) LB 05 ND ND ND ND
6 Maybelline (Baby Lips) LB 06 ND ND ND ND
7 Maybelline (Baby Lips Color) LB 07 ND ND ND ND
8 Nivea (Essential Care) LB 08 ND ND ND ND
Anti Ageing Creams
1 L’Oreal (Youth Code) AAC 01 ND ND ND ND
2 Olay (Total Effects) AAC 02 ND ND ND ND
3 Ponds (Age Miracle) AAC 03 ND ND ND ND

25

 
 Table 5: Lipstick Samples Detected with Chromium (Compared as Percentage of ADI)

S. Sample Lipstick Samples Detected with Total %age of %age of

No. Code Chromium Chromium ADI for ADI for
(ppm) Average Use High Use of
of 24 87 mg/day
mg/day

1 LS 01 Bodyshop (Ruby Sparkle – 12) 2.91 69.8 253.2

2 LS 05 ColorBar (Burnt Orange – 017) 1.62 38.9 140.9
3 LS 06 ColorBar (Bitter Chocolate – 028) 2.55 61.2 221.9
4 LS 07 ColorBar (Hearts & Tarts – 080V) 17.83 427.9 1551.2
5 LS 11 Estee Lauder (Scarlet Siren – 73) 1.34 32.2 116.6
6 LS 12 Lakme (Red Hot – 43) 0.45 10.8 39.9
7 LS 13 Lakme (Bridal Dream – 44) 1.39 33.4 120.9
8 LS 16 Lancome (Labsolu Nu – 204) 13.90 333.6 1209.3
9 LS 18 MAC (Paramount – A52) 1.14 27.4 99.2
10 LS 19 MAC (Plumful – A62) 1.22 29.3 106.1
11 LS 20 MAC (Cockney – A82) 2.32 55.7 201.8
12 LS 21 MAC (So Chaud – A82) 5.75 138.0 500.3
13 LS 22 Maxfactor (Pomegranate – 665) 1.59 38.2 138.3
14 LS 23 Maybelline (Hooked Pink – 065) 5.27 126.5 458.5
15 LS 28 Revlon (Copper Glow Berry – 311) 2.43 58.3 211.4

Note: Comparison of total Cr Detected in Lipsticks with Average Daily Intake (ADI) of Cr+6
• The ADI value of 0.0001 mg/day for a 50 kg woman for Cr+6 derived by Liu et. al. (2013) was used
for estimating exposure risk35. This ADI value is derived based on the cancer risk posed by Cr+6.

• CSE tested total Cr and not Cr+6 in lipsticks. Recognizing the need for extra precaution, all Cr has
been assumed as Cr+6. This assumption is made by most health regulators, including the USEPA
while setting standards.

• An average use of 24 mg/day and high use of 87 mg/day of lipstick suggested by Loretz et. al.
(2005) were used for estimating the exposure risk.

                                                            
35
Liu S., Hammond S. K., Rojas-Cheatham A.; Concentrations and Potential Health Risks of Metals in Lip Products.
Environmental Health Perspectives 2013; 121(6): 705 - 710
26

 
 Table 6: Mercury in Fairness (Skin Whitening) Creams
Mercury %age of %age of
Total as HgCl2 ADI for ADI for
S. Code Mercury (ppm) Average High
No. No. Name Manufacturer (ppm) Use* Use*
Fairness Creams for Women
Fair & Lovely multi Vitamin
1 1 daily fairness cream Hindustan Unilever Ltd. ND --- --- ---
2 2 Fairever CavinKare Pvt. Ltd. ND --- --- ---
3 6 Garnier Skin Naturals, Light L'Oreal India Private Ltd. ND --- --- ---
4 8 L'Oreal Pearl Effect L'Oreal India Private Ltd. 0.70 0.95 12.9 25.2
5 9 Fair & Lovely Winter Fairness Hindustan Unilever Ltd. ND --- --- ---
6 10 Fair & Lovely Ayurvedic Care Hindustan Unilever Ltd. 0.10 0.14 1.8 3.6
7 11 Fair & Lovely Anti Marks Hindustan Unilever Ltd. 0.73 0.99 13.5 26.3
8 12 Vivel Active Fair ITC Ltd. 0.23 0.31 4.3 8.3
9 13 Ponds White Beauty Hindustan Unilever Ltd. 1.36 1.84 25.2 49.0
10 14 Lakme Perfect Radiance Aero Pharma 0.19 0.26 3.5 6.8

11 15 Fair One Shahnaz Husain Elder Pharmaceuticals Ltd. ND --- --- ---
Emami Malai Keshar Cold
12 16 Cream Emami Limited 0.22 0.30 4.1 7.9
Johnson & Johnson Corea
13 17 Neutrogena Fine Fairness Ltd. ND --- --- ---
14 18 Lotus Cocofair Cream Kanidi Cosmeceuticals 0.81 1.10 15.0 29.2
15 19 Lotus White Glow Kanidi Cosmeceuticals ND --- --- ---
Beiersdorf (Thailand)
16 20 Nivea Sparkling Glow Co.Ltd. ND --- --- ---
Bio Veda Action Research
17 21 Biotique Bio Coconut Company 0.24 0.32 4.4 8.6
Procter & Gamble Home
18 22 Olay Natural White Products Ltd. 1.79 2.42 33.1 64.4

19 23 VLCC Enbrighten (Sun Defence) VLCC Personal Care Ltd. 0.11 0.15 2.0 4.0
Blossom Kochhar Beauty
20 24 Aroma Magic Fair Lotion Products Pvt. Ltd. 1.97 2.67 36.4 70.9
21 26 Lakme Aero Pharma ND --- --- ---
22 27 Lotus Micro emulsion Kanidi Cosmeceuticals ND --- --- ---
23 28 Lotus Fair Gel Kanidi Cosmeceuticals ND --- --- ---
Himalaya Herbals Fairness
24 30 Cream Himalya Drug Company ND --- --- ---
25 31 Revlon Touch and Glow G.S. Pharmbutor Pvt Ltd. 0.25 0.34 4.6 9.0
Jovees Pearl Whitening Face
26 32 Cream Jovees Herbal Care. ND --- --- ---
Fairness Creams for Men
27 3 Fair & Lovely Max Fairness Hindustan Unilever Ltd. ND --- --- ---
28 4 Emami Fair and Handsome Emami Limited ND --- --- ---
29 5 Garnier Men Power Light L'Oreal India Private Ltd. 0.24 0.32 4.4 8.6
30 7 L'Oreal Men Expert L'Oreal India Private Ltd. ND --- --- ---
31 25 Vaseline Men Face Aero Pharma ND --- --- ---

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 Nivea Advance Whitening For Beiersdorf (Thailand) Co.
32 29 Men Ltd. ND --- --- ---

Note: Conversion of total Hg to HgCl2 is done by considering the Molecular Weight of Hg as 200.592 and
that of HgCl2 as: 271.496.

• Comparison of Hg detected in Fairness Creams with Average Daily Intake (ADI) of

HgCl2:
• Skin whitening creams commonly use inorganic mercury in the form of ammoniated mercuric
chloride and mercuric iodide.

• Loretz et. al. (2005) have estimated that the average use of creams is 2.05 g/day and high use is
3.99 g/day36.

• 100% dermal absorption is considered.

• Calculation of ADI is based on USEPA oral Reference Dose (RfD) of 0.0003 mg/kg-day of HgCl2
which translates into an ADI for a 50 kg person as 0.015 mg.

                                                            
36
Loretz L.J., Api A.M., Barraj L.M., Burdick J., Dressler W.E., Gettings S.D., Han Hsu H., Pan Y.H.L., Re T.A.,
Renskers K.J., Rothenstein A., Scrafford C.G., Sewall C. Exposure data for cosmetic products: lipstick, body lotion,
and face cream. Food and Chemical Toxicology 2005; 43: 279–291

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