Collection Analysis Book-Compressed

Collection Analysis Book
Amanda Genevieve Odorico

Student No. 500550838
Collection: Flux by chAOs
FFD802 Strategic Production Management
Professor: Caron Phinney
DUE DATE: April 3rd 2017 at 2pm
Table of Contents
Part A: Summary Line Sheet……………………………………………………………………4
 Summary Line Sheet Images……………………………………………………………5
Part B: Collection Reference Guide…………………………………………………………….6
 Fabrics……………………………………………………………………………...…...7
 Notions………………………………………………………………………………….10
 Threads………………………………………………………………………………….13
Part C: Fabric and Notion Analysis……………………………………………………………..14
 Fabrics……………………………………………………………………………….…..15
 Notions…………………………………………………………………………………...25
 Threads…………………………………………………………………………………...29
Part D: Garment Specifications………………………………………………………………….30
 Front and Back Garment Technicals……………………………………………………..31
 Illustrated Point of Measure: Front Technical…………………………………………...32
 Illustrated Point of Measure: Back Technical……………………………………………33
 Measurement Chart………………………………………………………………………34
Part E: Garment Analysis and Style Specification Worksheet…………………………………..37
 Part 1: Style Description…………………………………………………………………38
 Part 2: Positioning Strategy……………………………………………………………...39
 Part 3: Sizing and Fit……………………………………………………………………..40
 Part 4: Materials Selection/Specification………………………………………………...41
 Part 5: Garment Component Analysis…………………………………………………...46
 Part 6: Final Assembly and Finishing……………………………………………………47
2
 Part 7: Garment Packaging/ Presentation………………………………………………..49
Locations of Retailers/ Sourcers…………………………………………………………………50
Evaluation Sheet…………………………………………………………………………………51
3
Part A: Summary Line Sheet
4
Summary Line Sheet Images
5
Part B: Collection Reference Guide
6
Fabrics
Fabric Name Frequency

Specific Element Self Fabric
Content 90% Polyester
10% Lycra
Industry Price $14.99/yard
Source/ Retailer Affordable Textiles
Width/ Size 58”
Fabric Name Amplitude

Content 89% Rayon 11% Nylon
Source/ Retailer Fabricana
Width/ Size 55”
Fabric Name Troughing

Specific Element Contrast Fabric
Content 80% Nylon
20% Spandex
Width/ Size 59”
Fabric Name Wavelength

14% Spandex
Width/ Size 67.7”
7
Fabrics Continued
Fabric Name Swelling

Content 86% Nylon
14% Spandex
Source/ Retailer Affordable Textiles
Width/ Size 59”
Fabric Name Cresting

Content 66.5% Rayon Bamboo
28.5% Cotton
5% Spandex
Width/ Size 59”
Fabric Name Wave Speed

Specific Element Contrast Fabric
Width/ Size 58”
Fabric Name Ripple

Content 81% Nylon
19% Spandex
Width/ Size 59”
8
Fabrics Continued
Fabric Name Shoaling

Specific Element Trim (Ribbing)
Content 95% Cotton
5% Spandex
Width/ Size 45”
Fabric Name Flushing

Specific Element Fusing
Content 100% Tricot
Source/ Retailer Leather and Sewing
Supply
Width/ Size 58”
9
Notions
Type of Notion Reflective Tape

Specific Element Trim
Content N/A
Supply
Type of Notion Snaps

Specific Element Closure
Content 100% Gunmetal
Industry Price $0.25 for one set
Supply
Type of Notion Elastic Band

Specific Element Waistband
16% Rubber
Supply
Type of Notion Cording

Specific Element Drawstring Waistband
Content 100% Cotton
Supply
10
Notions Continued
Type of Notion Caps

Specific Element Capping Drawstring
Content High Density
Polyethylene
Industry Price $0.40/pair
Supply
Type of Notion Brand Labels

Specific Element Labels
Content Poly-Cotton Blend
Industry Price $0.13 for one
Source/ Retailer Cotton Trends
Type of Notion Size Labels

Specific Element Medium Size Labels
Content 100% Cotton
Industry Price $.04 for one
Supply
Type of Notion Tags

Specific Element Hang Tags
Content N/A
Industry Price $0.10/tag
Source/ Retailer Copyrite
11
Notions Continued
Type of Notion Safety Pin

Specific Element Attaches Hang Tag
Content 100% Gunmetal
Industry Price $0.04/pin
Supply
Type of Notion Cording

Specific Element Attaches Hang Tags
Supplies
Type of Notion Label

Specific Element Content Label
Industry Price $0.05/ label
Supplies
12
Threads
Thread Name Black

Industry Price $2.00/ 1000 yards
Supply
Type of Stitch Lockstitch; Cover
Seam; 4-Thread Serger
Thread Name White

Supply
Thread Name Blue

Supply
13
Part C: Fabric and Notion Analysis
14
Fabrics
Frequency
Fabric/ Material Characteristics Fabric/ Material Overall Performance
Affecting Yardage Utilization
There were no patent or latent defects The fibre content of the neoprene was 90%
that occurred with this fabric. However, polyester and 10% lycra which worked well the
the edges of the neoprene roll had some style of an athletic wear collection. The yarn
areas that could no be used due to the quality and size does not apply to this fabric,
fusing of the neoprene there was excess because it was bonded together with glue to create
glue and unpadded fabric. Just being a double layer neoprene. The weight was a little
careful with the edges of the material too heavy, and when the designer was sewing, the
when laying out the pattern was all that jacket became heavier and heavier. Overall it was
was required when prepping the neoprene too stiff for this collection, and the designer would
for cutting and production. The width of recommend using a single layer neoprene in future
the fabric worked well for the two jackets production. There was very little drapability when
that was it was constructed from it. it came to the jackets. They were very structure,
which was the desired look for the designer, and
would use neoprene for future collections within
athletic wear. The application of colour was done
prior to the neoprene being fused together, which
creates a strong and longer lasting colour during
wear. Since it was used in two jackets, the
resistance to colour fading is critical, and this
fabric will withstand the elements well. There
15
were no structural or applied designs with the
material. The fabrication was bonded together
with glue to create a double layer neoprene, that is
a strong and quality fabric. Lastly, the only
finishes applied to this material is a wrinkle
resistant finish, since it is already made out of
polyester it gains may properties of water
resistance and resiliency from that.
The designer would not use this exact fabric again
for production, however would use a lighter
weight neoprene in order for easier production and
making the jacket a lighter piece.
Amplitude
This rayon fabric had only one patent The fibre content of this fabric was 89% rayon and
flaw, but no latent flaws. There were 11% nylon which created a soft fabric. With fine
fabric flaws through the material prior to quality and yarn size, the fabric weight was light
cutting, which required the designer to and breathable, which helps sell the fact that it is
place the pattern pieces around the flaws athletic wear and the designer wants to create
in order to not include them in the something comfortable and breathable for the
garments. The overall width of the wearer. Since the fabric was lightweight and a fine
material was effective because it had to rayon material, it had a very good drapability and
fit two pairs of pants and a jacket, which was effective when it came to gather either around
16
worked well, even considering the fabric the waistband or at the cuff of the pants. The yarns
flaws that were included on the material. were dyed prior to assembly of the fabric, which
was woven together. There were not structural or
applied finishes to the material, and no finishes
applied either.
The designer would use this material again
because it was easy to work with and was
effective in the designs and styles that were
created.
Troughing
There were no patent defects within The 80% nylon and 20% spandex fibres were very
troughing, however it did have one latent fine and thin. The material was used mainly as
defect that was an issue throughout contrast on tops and dresses. The lightweight
production. The snapback on the material fabric was a single ply fibre that drapes very well.
was extensive, and the designer had to Prior to assembly of the fabric, the fibres were
recut pieces because of how slippery that dyed black. The structurally applied designed
fabric was on the table. However, the were created while the material was being knitted
width of the material was good, because together. Since it is a mesh, a special machine that
there were not that many large pieces cut knits fabrics together created this design. There
from this material so it was easy to were no final finishes applied this this material.
maneuver pattern pieces and cut
effectively without creating much waste.
17
The designer would use this material again
because it adds both a functional and an aesthetic
quality to the garments that it was applied too.
Wave Length
This knit fabric had both patent and latent The 86% polyester and 14% spandex blend fabric
defects that the designer had to lookout is soft tech fabric that easily wicks away sweat
for. The patent defect was the width which is meant for an athletic wear collection. The
variation throughout the entire roll, as it fine, single ply yarn is a high quality polyester that
was inconsistent and varied. The latent allows it to be a lightweight material. The
defect that occurred was during cutting, drapability of the fabric works well when it was
which was the snapback, however, it was being gathered in the pants, but also worked well
not that extensive. There was a lot of when it was meant to be a form fitting dress,
pieces that used large sections of this because it flows and moves nicely with
material, so it was important to lay movement. The subtle pattern was added it when
everything properly and most effectively it was being knit together in the factory, which is
as the designer could, however with the apart of the structural design. There were no added
large pattern pieces it was difficult to finishes at the end of production.
maximize fabric utilization. The designer would use this fabric again as it was
soft against the skin, and how it added a subtle
pattern into the line. However, one issue that
occurred during production was the fabric
stretching and being distorted in certain aspects of
18
pieces, such as the hem of the sweater, so instead
of using the self material as the hem, the designer
would change the design to use ribbing instead
and keep the material as is.
Swelling
The nylon based material had no patent The 86% nylon and 14% polyester material was
defects that occurred, but it did have very thin and easy to produce with. The single ply
snapback, which is a latent defect. The yarns were knitted together to create a stretch
designer had to cautiously lay the fabric that was lightweight and somewhat sheer.
material on a flat surface and ensure that As it was lightweight, it draped very nicely once
no snapback would occur when cutting. the garments were constructed. It made up two
Furthermore, the only other issue was pieces in the collection, a top and a dress. The top
that the fabric was a pure white, so it got was a surplice design so it draped nicely off the
dirty easily, so during production, extra bodice, and the dress it was made of had a flowing
care had to be taken when producing it. skirt that moved quite nicely when the wearer was
walking. This pure white fabric was dyed prior to
the fibers being constructed and knitted into
material. The only finish that was applied to this
fabric was a resistant to moisture, which is great
for athletic wear.
The designer would use this type of material
again, however the pure white colour was difficult
19
during production. It adds a nice contrast to the
collection, but it was very difficult to keep clean
through the cutting, sewing, and finishes processes
of production. So instead of a pure white, maybe a
off white would be used next time.
Cresting
There were no patent defects with Cresting was a super soft material with the fibre
cresting, and the only latent defect that content of 66.5% Rayon Bamboo, 28.5% Cotton,
the designer had to keep in mind while and 5% Spandex. The two ply fibre adds strength
cutting was the snapback. However, it to the rayon bamboo and cotton fibre, because
was not that severe of a snapback, and it since it is natural, the more plies, the better. The
care was taken when cutting, there was lightweight fabric drapes off the body, and since
no issue. The only piece that was made the style it is used in is a oversized sweater, the
out of this material was a sweater, so movement within it is easy and flows with the
laying out the pattern pieces was simple, body. The colour is an off white which is applied
and in a major production line it would prior to the knitting process, and no applied
be straightforward as it is only one style designs or finishes are added after the fact.
being dealt with. The designer would use this again, however,
expand the use throughout the collection. As it is
soft and comfortable against the skin, the wearer
would really enjoy it, and it would sell well in
many stores. Maybe adding in a few different
20
colours would also be a good option, so that if
people do not take to white, they can still enjoy
the overall design and comfort.
Wave Speed
There were no patent defects to wave Wave speed is composed of 100% polyester, and
speed, however there were two latent there is no yarn size, rather an abundance of fibres
defects that occurred during production tangled together to create the cushioning mesh
and after the wearer has been wearing it fabric. Considering how thick the fabric was, it
awhile. During production it stretches out was very light weight and breathable, due to the
of shape and then retains that shape tangled fibres. The very structured material works
which made it difficult to sew with. well with the neoprene to create a stiff framework
Furthermore, after wearing it awhile, the and solid jacket. The fibres are dyed prior to the
air mesh begins to pill. Since its only air jets tangling them together, and the mesh
used in small, selected areas of two application is a structural component done after
jackets it does not wear that quickly, but the fabric has been formed. There are no finishes
it unfortunately would not last years applied the wave speed.
without the pilling to occur. The designer likes the colour and the functional
aspect of the air mesh, however, in the future
would pick a different material. Something that is
still breathable, however with the pilling being an
issue, especially in a high quality jacket, it needs
to be changed. Furthermore, sewing with the
21
neoprene created thick seams and was difficult to
produce.
Ripple
There were no patent defects within this Ripple is 81% nylon and 19% spandex, and with a
fabric selection, however, since it is a very fine yarn size, it allows for a very lightweight
very stretchy knit, the snapback while fabric. Having a lot of drapability allows for flow
cutting was severe. Some pieces had to and movement in the garments it is constructed
be recut because of the cutting issues, so with. Prior to the fibres being spun together, they
that needs to be taken into consideration were dyed blue and then assembled. While it was
when going into production. The width of being knitted together, a structural design was
the fabric was wide enough for the tops made on the face of the fabric which was subtle,
to be cut. yet added a nice pattern on the two tops that were
created by this fabric. With being a nylon
material, allowed it to have low absorbency which
allows moisture to evaporate on the face of the
fabric. There were no finishes applied to at the end
of the knitting process.
The designer would use this fabric again because
it added a nice contrast to the collection, and
because of the functionality of the material, which
works well for an athletic wear line. If there were
22
more colours offered in this fabric, it would make
an exceptional piece in other seasons.
Shoaling
There was no patent or latent defects with 95% cotton and 5% spandex based ribbing was a
this material at all. Smooth and easy to medium weight quality and size of yarns used to
cut, and there was little to no fabric knit it in a tubular fashion. It is a medium weight
waste, because all of the pieces that were ribbing that has very little drape and movement.
cut out of this material were rectangles, Prior to weaving together, it was dyed grey. There
which were stacked on top of each other. were no applied designs, however during the
knitting process it had wales created within the
material. Lastly, there was no finishes applied.
The designer would not use this weight of fabric
again, however the colour and style worked well
within the collection. If it was a slightly lighter
weight, it would have worked better on the
neckline of one of the dresses.
Flushing
There were no latent defects, however 100% tricot fusing was a lightweight woven
there was two patent defects that material that drapes well, however, when the glue
occurred. There was width variation on the face of the fusing melts to other fabric, it
throughout the purchase fusing, and there hardens and structures the fabric. The finish that
23
were fabric flaws. For fabric flaws, there was applied was the bonding agent applied to
were sections of glue that clumped attach the fusing to the self fabric was the only
together prior to heating up and finishing applied.
activating. It was only used for select The designer would use this fusing again because
pieces within the collection so the width it worked well with the rayon and poly-spandex
was wide enough for the waistbands and material for the waistband of the three pairs of
facings. pants, as well as the facing of the rayon jacket.
There were no issues when it was used within the
collection.
24
Notions
Reflective Tape
Would use it again Material Overall Performance
The reflective tape was a key component of the
collection, however the main issue with it was that
it was not flexible. When it was sewn in the
seams, it puckered because it had difficulty

No
forming over curved seams. Next time the
designers wants to put reflective tape in the
collection, either using it in smaller sections where
the seams do not curve, or find reflective tape that
has flexibility within the actual tape.
Snaps
Would use it again Notion Overall Performance
The 100% gunmetal snaps were effective as
closures; however, were too large for the three
jackets they were used on and it created ripples
No when they were sewn on. The designer would use
this style of snaps again when doing another
collection, however, the supplies did have a
smaller size, so those would be used in the future.
Elastic Band
Would use it again Fabric/ Material Overall Performance
The elastic band used in the waistband of the pants
Yes and one of the dresses worked well and functioned
25
properly. It was sturdy enough to hold up the
pants and keeping everything held in place. Yet it
was not too stiff that it was painful to wear or
difficult to sew with. The designer would easily
use this elastic again in any future collection that
will occur.
Cording (Drawstring)
The drawstring that was used in the pants and the
dress for the waistband was thick enough to create
a sturdy knot if tied, and does not fray easily.
Yes After testing the colour, it does not fade or bleed
which allows it to be used in a variety of garments
without affecting the colouring (i.e. bleeding onto
other materials)
Caps
The caps used in this collection were effective,
however, in the future the designer would have
preferred to keep the consistency of gunmetal, for
example, the snaps and the safety pins that were

No
used. Furthermore, the designers would also opt
for using larger caps as these ones were too small
26
and difficult to fit the drawstring cording in and tie
a knot at the end.
Brand Labels
Poly-cotton blend labels were effective and easy
to sew. They are soft against the skin, so it will not

Yes
irritate the wearer. Furthermore, the dye does not
bleed off and fade after wear.
Size Labels
Woven size labels that are not irritating against the
Yes skin, and are easily sewn onto the brand label. The
colours also match the brand labels exceptional.
Hang Tags
The hangtags used for Flux by chAOs were
printed on white 80lb paper which worked
Yes perfectly to show the simplicity and contrast
between white and black. Effective when attached
to the garments and easy to see, furthermore, they
do not tear easily.
Safety Pins
Gunmetal safety pins go with the gunmetal snaps.
Yes These pins were used for attaching hang tags to
27
the garment, and were sturdy enough for holding
all the tags on a variety of garments.
Cording (Hang Tags)

Worked well with tying the noose knot for the
hang tag. It did not slip, and there were no issues

Yes
with the knot coming undone, and the safety pin
was locked solidly through the cording.
Content Labels
In the future, the designer would opt to use softer
care labels as these one were itchy against the
No skin, and they were too stiff for some of the
garments, such as the tops and pants, which were a
light weight, drapable, fabric.
28
Thread
Black
Strong and sturdy thread. The 100% polyester
fibres that were two ply and have an Z-Twist.

Yes
Worked well with a lockstitch (class 300), cover
seam (class 400), and the serger (class 500)
White

Yes
Blue

Yes
29
Part D: Garment Specifications
30
Front and Back Technical Views
Season: Fall/Winter 2017

Style Number: 3001
Pattern Number: 6002
Style Name: Cresting Cover
31
Illustrated Point of Measure: Technical Front
32
Illustrated Point of Measure: Technical Back
33
Measurement Chart
Code POM Description Tolerance Actual

Amount Measurement of
Sample Size
1 CF neck drop (from high neck point to the
bottom of the neck) ½” 6 ½”
2 Neck width (high shoulder point to high
shoulder point) ¼” 10”
3 Shoulder seam ¼” 3 ¼”
4 Chest measurement from AH notches (since
it is a dropped armhole it measures out to

¼” 17”
approx. 1” below AH if it hadn’t been
dropped)
5 Length of CF jacket closure ½” 13”

6 Width of CF overlap ¼” 2 ¼”
7 Length of SF bodice dart ¼” 2 ½”
8 Sleeve length (from shoulder seam to cuff of
sleeve) ½” 24”
9 Circumference of sleeve hem ½” 10 ¼”

10 Length of under sleeve (measured from front
notch to cuff) ½” 18 ½”
11 Sweep of front hem ½” 22”

12 Width of CB panel at hem ½” 7 ¼”
13 Distance between CF and pocket placement ¼” 3”
34
14 Width of bottom of pocket ¼” 5”
15 Height of shorter side of pocket ¼” 2”
16 Diagonal measurement of pocket ¼” 2 ½”
17 Width of pocket on the top ¼” 2 ½”
18 Height of pocket ¼” 5”
19 Width of under sleeve ¼” 3 ½”
20 Front AH (shoulder seam to side seam of
jacket) ½” 9 ¾”
21 Distance between hidden snaps on CF of
jacket ¼” 2 ½”
22 Width of top sleeve ¼” 8 ¾”

23 Length of the back facing ¼” 2 ½”
24 Width of SB at hem (starting from the where
the SS begin) ½” 7”
25 Length of SS ½” 12 ½”
26 Length of CB ½” 25”
27 Width of SB at AH notches ½” 4 ½”
28 Back measurement from AH notches (since
it is a dropped armhole it measures out to

½” 16”
approx. 1” below AH if it hadn’t been
dropped)
29 Width of back from head of sleeve to head
of sleeve ½” 17”
35
30 Width of air mesh along back neckline ½” 10 ¼”
31 High neck point to shoulder seam ¼” 9”
32 Shoulder seam ¼” 3 ¼”
33 Shoulder seam (width of air mesh) ¼” 1”
34 Shoulder seam (width of neoprene) ¼” 2 ¼”
35 Back AH (shoulder seam to side seam of
jacket) ½” 10 ¼”
36
Part E: Garment Analysis and Style Specification
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
Locations of Retailers/ Sourcers
Affordable Textiles 529-531 Queen Street West
M5V 2B4
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
(416) 504-4117
CopyRite Printing Services 55 Gould Street
M5B 1E9
(416) 979-5264
Cotton Trends www.cottontrends.ca
Email: info@cottontrends.ca
Canada
Fabricana Imports Ltd. 4591 Garden City Road
V6X 2K4
Richmond, British Columbia, Canada
(604) 273-5316
Leather and Sewing Supply Depot 204 Spadina Avenue
M5T 2C2
(416) 913-4868
50
Evaluation
51

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Collection Analysis Book

Amanda Genevieve Odorico

 Summary Line Sheet Images……………………………………………………………5

Part B: Collection Reference Guide…………………………………………………………….6

Part C: Fabric and Notion Analysis……………………………………………………………..14

Part D: Garment Specifications………………………………………………………………….30

 Front and Back Garment Technicals……………………………………………………..31

 Illustrated Point of Measure: Front Technical…………………………………………...32

 Illustrated Point of Measure: Back Technical……………………………………………33

Part E: Garment Analysis and Style Specification Worksheet…………………………………..37

 Part 1: Style Description…………………………………………………………………38

 Part 2: Positioning Strategy……………………………………………………………...39

 Part 3: Sizing and Fit……………………………………………………………………..40

 Part 4: Materials Selection/Specification………………………………………………...41

 Part 5: Garment Component Analysis…………………………………………………...46

 Part 6: Final Assembly and Finishing……………………………………………………47

Locations of Retailers/ Sourcers…………………………………………………………………50

Fabric Name Frequency

Fabric Name Amplitude

Fabric Name Troughing

Fabric Name Wavelength

Fabric Name Swelling

Fabric Name Cresting

Fabric Name Wave Speed

Fabric Name Ripple

Fabric Name Shoaling

Fabric Name Flushing

Type of Notion Reflective Tape

Type of Notion Snaps

Type of Notion Elastic Band

Type of Notion Cording

Type of Notion Caps

Type of Notion Brand Labels

Type of Notion Size Labels

Type of Notion Tags

Type of Notion Safety Pin

Type of Notion Cording

Type of Notion Label

Thread Name Black

Thread Name White

Thread Name Blue

which was the desired look for the designer, and

would use neoprene for future collections within

athletic wear. The application of colour was done

prior to the neoprene being fused together, which

creates a strong and longer lasting colour during

wear. Since it was used in two jackets, the

resistance to colour fading is critical, and this

fabric will withstand the elements well. There

material. The fabrication was bonded together

with glue to create a double layer neoprene, that is

a strong and quality fabric. Lastly, the only

finishes applied to this material is a wrinkle

resistant finish, since it is already made out of

polyester it gains may properties of water

resistance and resiliency from that.

The designer would not use this exact fabric again

for production, however would use a lighter