Model Airplane International 137 2016-12
Model Airplane International 137 2016-12
Model Airplane International 137 2016-12
FR E E HARRIER
T
MADE FOR TWO
GI F
WE CONTINUE WITH
OUR MAMMOTH 1:24 T.2
CONVERSION…
December 2016
S
IBER £4.50 / Issue 137
S U BSCIRNSIDE
FOR TAILS
DE
www.modelairplaneinternational.com
FLY LIKE
A DEMON
GET THE BEST FROM
HASEGAWA’S 1:32
NAKAJIMA TYPE 2
“SHOKI”
14
THE ACE
MAKER
EDUARD’S 1:48
HELLCAT IS THE
PERFECT OUT OF THE
KIT BUILD BOX BUILD…
FIGHTING
Contents
Fax: 01525 222574
Model Airplane International. Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,
Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, England
VOLUME 12. ISSUE 137. DECEMBER 2016 VOL.12 ISS.137 DECEMBER 2016
Editorial:
Editor: Spencer Pollard
[email protected]
Publisher: Alan Harman
REGULARS P22 A HARRIER MADE FOR TWO Group Editor: Marcus Nicholls
The editor converts the ancient Airfix 1:24 Harrier Administration Manager: Hannah McLaurie
Office Manager: Paula Gray
P04 - EDITORIAL Gr.1 into the T.2 trainer. This month we look at the
Advertising Manager: Sean Leslie
P06 - NEWSLINE cockpit interior.
P78 - EVENTS DIARY Art:
P79 - CONTACTS DETAILS P28 FIGHTING 14 Editorial Design: Peter Hutchinson
P81 - NEXT ISSUE Mike Williams takes a detailed look at Tamiya’s Advertising Design: Peter Hutchinson & Alex Hall
P82 - FINAL THOUGHTS… extraordinary 1:48 F-14 Tomcat.
Advertisement and circulation:
Model Airplane International, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,
REVIEWS P40 FLY LIKE A DEMON Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX.
Chris McDowell builds Hasegawa’s Tel: 01525 222573 Fax: 01525 222574
P72 NEW RELEASES KITS 1:32 Ki-44 “Shoki” E-mail: [email protected]
The latest kit releases assessed
P48 THE ACE MAKER Distribution:
Seymour Distribution, 2 East Poultry Avenue,
P76 NEW RELEASES BOOKS Nick Shuttleworth shows that Eduard’s 1:48 Hellcat London, EC1A 9PT.
Some of the latest aviation and modelling titles is the perfect out of the box build… Tel: 020 7429 4000
s c r i b e To
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Su da
GE
SEE PA
70
To d a y
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bs
ibe
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s e
To d
ay Sub
Model Airplane International is published monthly by Doolittle Media, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX. Entire Contents © 2016 Doolittle Media, Reproduction
in part or whole of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the content of Model Airplane
International is accurate, the publishers and printers cannot accept liability for errors and omissions. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Model Airplane International only upon
Doolittle Media’s standard terms of acceptance of advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising sales department of MAI.
R
e cently I had the singular Last year, when I built Tamiya’s 1/32nd scale
pleasure of building a pre- Mosquito for the importers.
release copy of Tamiya’s new You see, Tamiya has that effect. They
Tomcat. As a build it’s easy to raise the bar EVERY SINGLE TIME. People
run out of superlatives for this have looked at the outwardly conventional
model. I have used every one I can think assembly of the Tomcat, and compared it
of - awesome, eyewatering, stunning, to the latest slide moulded wonders coming
unbelievable, near-perfect etc., etc. And I from others (Chinese, mainly) , usually
mean every single one of them. It is, without unfavourably. “Two part forward fuselage?
doubt, the finest 1/48th model I have ever How very 1990’s, others are slide moulding
built - and not by a small margin. In the those in one piece now!” I’ve heard more
best traditions of Tamiya it is addictive than once. I’ve seen it implied, and outright
modelling - a quick sit at my desk to do said, that Tamiya are not using slide moulds,
something minor would easily turn into a which accounts for the more complex break
session lasting a few hours. I literally had down. It’s rubbish - this model is loaded
to force myself to leave it alone sometimes. with slide mould technology, Tamiya have
And once finished? I was a little bit sad. just used it differently, and on the back of
Had I had access to a second, and no prior many decades of experience in raising the
commitments to satisfy modelling wise, I bar. In addition to slide moulds being used
would have happily started it straight away. for clever assembly touches, one of its
For the sheer pleasure of modelling. You main uses is in achieving undercuts and in
know the last time I felt that about a model? maintaining detail which would otherwise be
GWHL1004 1:144
Handley-Page Victor B.2 £29.99
GWHL1005 1:144
Handley-Page Victor K.2 £32.99
H.G.Hannant Ltd,
Harbour Road, Oulton Broad, Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR32 3LZ, England.
KITTYHAWK MODELS
www.kittyhawkmodel.com
RUSSIAN HEAVY METAL TO PLEASE MODERN AIRCRAFT FANS…
Kitty hawk has used their popular Facebook page to announce two new Russian jet kits that
will be released over the new few months or so, both of which are iconic Sukhoi designs: the
Su-17/22 M3/M4 and the Su-34 “Fullback”. Modelled in 1:48, the images released so far reveal
plenty of fine detail and given the size of both of these aircraft (especially the Fullback!), the
resulting models will be large and impressive in the display case! We have no more details as we
go to print, but will bring you more details when we have them.
“The new 1:48 North American P-51D Mustang (A05131) will feature the impressive levels of detail
associated with this slightly larger scale and will also incorporate a number of different build options for
the modeller to consider. As you would expect, the model will be able to be finished in either flight, or
static configuration, with the latter providing the modeller with a number of alternative options, such as
canopy position, flaps and undercarriage door positioning. The kit will also allow the modeller to build
different versions of the ‘D’ model Mustang, from the first machines introduced into service, to the later
aircraft which featured a number of improvements - this will very much appeal to fans of this magnificent
aeroplane. There will also be a number of weapon and under-wing drop tank options available, which will
allow the modeller to produce a great many of the attractive Mustang schemes we will all be familiar with.
This exciting new 1:48 P-51D Mustang is due for release in August 2017 and we look forward to bringing
you regular updates over the coming weeks. To receive notification of when this Magnificent Mustang is
available for pre-order, please sign up for the Airfix e-mail newsletter and be at the head of the pack.”
PRIMED AND
Zvezda 1:144 Airbus A321
Kit No: 7017
Material: IM
Availability: Zvezda Stockists
BEFORE STARTING:
● Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
● Tamiya masking Tape: 6 mm/10 mm/18 mm
● Gunze-Sangyo Mr.Cement S We build Zvezda’s Airbus A321, finishing it in a
very unusual colour scheme…
● Gunze-Sangyo Mr.Mark Setter
● Gunze-Sangyo Mr.Mark Softer
● Gunze-Sangyo Mr.Surfacer 500
H
● Squadron White Putty
● Flory Models Sponge sanders
● Anderson Models Curved scissors aving already built Zvezda’s cemented in place for an aircraft in the
● Expo Tweezers excellent Airbus A320 and cruise. Unlike the Revell kit, both current
● GS Hypo Cement
● Olfa-P Cutter Ilyushin IL-62 kits before, engine options are also included, but only
● 3M Scotch Tape No: 471/06404 3mm I was pretty confident that build instructions for the CFM equipped
● UNI PIN Fine Line Marker Pen 0.05 mm
● Evergreen stripe
their Airbus A321 would also aircraft on the box (future releases will
● Lion Roar scribing template be a winner. Box art is in the form of no doubt change). Another nice addition
● ZAP Thin CA an Airbus Industries liveried A321 lifting is a complete cockpit and forward galley
off at night, and inside are three sprues area which allows the modeller to leave
AIRBUSH USED: moulded in grey plastic and one for the the forward L1 door open and add detail
Harder & Steenback Evolution
clear parts. The sprue mouldings and inside. To show off all your hard work
PAINTS USED:
Mr Hobby Acrylic:
detail are very good indeed and are up in the cockpit, the clear cockpit window
H21 Off White there with the top manufacturers. Zvezda parts come as a crown-type affair which
H51 Light Gull Grey have included parts to allow the modeller is by far a better design than struggling
H308 Grey FS:36375
218 Mr. Metal Color Aluminium to build the aircraft in no less than four to fit and make good, the old style of
Mr.Color Leveling Thinner different configurations. Two sets of glazing.
Tamiya Acrylics: flaps and landing gear allow the model
X-14 Sky Blue to be built either posed on the ground The aircraft to be modelled
X-25 Clear Red
X-27 Clear Green
or landing/taking off. There are also With my main interest being aviation
XF-2 Flat White landing gear doors supplied that can be photography, I like to generally build aircraft
XF-4 Yellow Green
XF-21 Sky
XF-60 Dark Yellow
XF-69 Nato Black
XF-71 Cockpit Green
X-20A Acrylic Thinner
Vallejo:
71.005 Azul Intermediate Blue
71.023 Hemp
71.025 Amarillo Panzer Dark Yellow
73.601 Grey Primer
73.602 Black Primer
77.701 Metal Color Aluminium
77.704 Metal Color Pale Burnt Metal
77.713 Metal Color Jet Exhaust
77.720 Metal Color Gunmetal
Cockpit Area
From the offset, the quality of the Zvezda
A321 comes through with the well thought
out design of the cockpit and its glazing.
There is no doubt exposing the interior of the
cockpit adds realism to the finish of the model,
and Zvezda have made this an easy task to
04/11/2016 11:54
KIT BUILD
SKILL LEVEL: BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE
the window recesses to be filled and sanded that it runs through the window openings and onto the wing section. This is another area
flat before painting. To achieve this I first marks the fuselage. Applying the cement to the that Zvezda have assisted the modeller with
cemented lengths of Evergreen Strip Styrene strip before laying it into the fuselage will help their design which has greatly reduces the
along the inside of each fuselage halves, keep everything nice and tidy. workload. The bottom halves of the wings are
taking care not to apply too much cement so With the fuselage halves curing I moved incorporated into the centre wing box of the
Setting out sub-assemblies that can be cemented together will Zvezda designers have helped the modeller with the fit of the Before filling the windows, masking tape was laid over all the
save you time waiting for parts to cure. Here the tops of the wing box and belly of the aircraft. They have used existing panel adjacent panel lines to avoid any damage when sanding the
wings are being cemented onto the large wing/belly section. lines as joints, and so require very little work to gain a good fit. model smooth.
Squadron White putty is my preferred product for filling. Try not The cockpit parts were primed with Vallejo and the instrument Both crew seats are a little bland, so I added seat cover
to use too much as it will only take longer to sand and will also panels masked before painting the whole thing with Vallejo fashioned from small pieces of 800 grit Wet & Dry before setting
increase the risk of damaging the model by over sanding. 71.005 Intermediate Blue. the seats into place.
Once the fuselage halves had been bought together the fit
of the cockpit section was excellent.
When sanding the seam lines on any model you are inevitably Cockpit glazing has always been the problem area of airliner kits, often being of a poor fit or very thick, making the job of getting a
going to remove the delicate panel line from the kit. These will good finish without damaging it almost impossible. Zvezda has chosen the ‘crown’ type fit which eradicates of all the previous short
need reinstating, so I use lengths of 3mm Scotch tape as a comings. Here I have used GS Hypo watch makers glue to set it in place before masking the windows with Tamiya tape.
guide and run my Olfa-P cutter through the panel lines.
over this process will save you time and effort Flory Models sanding pads. This can get a perfectly into position and to lessen the risk
when sanding the joint for that super smooth little messy with the amount of dust produced, of fogging, watchmaker’s glue was used to
finish required on airliners. After an hour or so a quick wash of the model was necessary secure it. Wanting the cockpit visible, I then
so to let the cement cure I set about sanding to remove any particles before attaching the masked the glazing with Tamiya tape ready
the windows smooth using various grades of cockpit glazing. The cockpit glazing fitted for priming. I used Halfords Grey primer to
Zvezda designers have helped the modeller with the fit of the Here the wing fairings have been cemented into place. The Tamiya masking tape and a new sharp scalpel blade were
wing box and belly of the aircraft. They have used existing panel extended flaps with eventually be mounted on these. used to mask the cockpit windows. Burnishing the tape onto
lines as joints, and so require very little work to gain a good fit. the windows will show up the frames and where the cuts are
required.
For the metallics on the CFM 56 engines, I decided to try the With the fuselage sanded smooth, a couple of light coats of Mixing the colours for the main fuselage would require plenty
new Vallejo Metal Color range for the first time and wasn’t Halfords Grey Primer from a spray can were applied and left to of colours, so I trawled my collection of Greens & Browns and
disappointed. Colours used were Aluminium, Burnt Pale Metal, dry for a few hours. picked anything I thought would be of use.
Jet Exhaust and Gun Metal.
Numerous composite materials make up the fairings on the belly of the aircraft and are again supplied in a range of colours from different manufacturers. The Brown shades were again from the test
cards I had produced prior to the build, with the others being Vallejo Black primer and Tamiya’s X-14 Sky Blue.
for circles. The template was offered up to the which are then shipping to the production wrote down the ratios for each section of the
wheels and the correct size hole noted. This lines, either by air, sea or road. One visual fuselage.
was then masked off leaving only the required indication of this is the different shades each Before beginning the painting process, the
size hole exposed; it was then placed over the fuselage section has been primed in. I first fuselage was first given a coat of Tamiya Fine
hubs and airbrushed Tamiya XF-1 White. For began by gathering together all of the paints White Primer from a spray can, which gave
the landing gear struts I used Gunze’s superb I thought that would be needed out of my me a good smooth, uniform coloured base
Mr Color Aluminium, this can be handbrushed collection, and then began the long process to start from. I began with the lightest shade
with great results. to mix and match colours to achieve what was of Green/Yellow, giving the whole airframe a
needed. When mixing colours it is so easy to coat of Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green mixed with
Paint just chuck paint into the colours cup and spray XF-21 Sky. The lighter centre section was
Without doubt the most interesting and difficult away, but nine times out of ten your cup will the same mix of XF-4/XF-21 lightened with
part of the build would be the painting and run dry before you’re finished and then you Gunze Aqueous H-21 Off White. Moving to
matching of the many shades of colour the have the task of trying to match it once again the nose section of the aircraft I used a mix
aircraft was painted in. With Airbus Industries (I have done it many times!). So for this build of Vallejo 71.025 Amarillo Panzer Dark Yellow
being a multi-national company, many of I cut a couple of large pieces of plasticard to and 71.023 Hemp. Each colour was also
the components to build the aircraft are use as colour charts and began mixing, all the lightened during the painting process to add
manufactured in different countries. These time making a note of what was being added. some variation as seen on the real aircraft.
include the sub-assemblies for the fuselage, I then airbrushed each mix onto the card and The doors were then masked and airbrushed
Reference shots show the composite nose cone painted black Studying reference pictures also showed a ring of a Yellow/ The wings were painted with a mix of Gunze Aqueous H-51
with some white randomly sprayed applied. Brown composite material that runs around where the fan Light Gull Grey and H-308 (FS36375). These were thinned with
blades spin. I made some simple masks by looping a piece of Gaia Notes ‘Moderate’ thinner with a couple of drops of Gunze
paper into a tube that follows the internal shape of each engine Mr Retarder Mild to slow the drying time of the paint and reduce
and then simply airbrushed Tamiya’s XF-60 Dark Yellow over clogging of the airbrush.
the masks.
Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green, and the model waste decals paper I cut enough to cover the gear, as any misalignment will without doubt
set aside for a day or to fully dry. text on the printed sheet and fixed the decal spoil the look of the model. For the anti-
From my photos of the aircraft, it shows paper over the top with masking tape, making collision lights, I cut small pieces off the clear
areas of over spray over the top of each door sure the tape was well stuck down. The sheet sprue and shaped them into domes; these
and the fairings around the wing spare area. was then passed through the laser printer were then painted with Tamiya X-25 Clear Red
Each door was masked and these painted once again this time printing on the decal and then attached to the model. Finally, the
Gunze Aqueous H-21 Off White. I also painted paper. I did exactly the same the tail markings, wing fences (winglets) were fitted to the wing
the two antennae on the roof of the fuselage with the only difference being I had to invert tips. ■
as well as the tail. Numerous composite the image to produce the tail markings for
materials make up the fairings on the belly either side of the tail.
of the aircraft and are again supplied in a For the aircrafts cockpit and cabin windows
range of colours from different manufacturers. I had a spare set of screen printed decals
The Brown shades were again from the test from TwoSix. The photograph of the aircraft
cards I had produced prior to the build, with at Hamburg also shows what appear to be
the others being Vallejo Black primer and labels stuck to each of the cabin windows, so
Tamiya’s X-14 Sky Blue. With the fuselage a quick look in the spares box produced a set
completed I moved onto painting the wings of thin white lines that were wing walk areas
and horizontal stabilisers. I first airbrushed the on a BAC Lightning. These were cut into small
flaps, speed brakes and elevators with Gunze squares and patiently added to the windows.
Aqueous H-51 Light Gull Grey, and after To aid the application of the thick laser printed
masking painted the rest of the wing areas decals, Gunze Sangyo’s Mr Mark Setter and
with Gunze Aqueous H-308 FS 36375 Grey. Softer were utilised, making the process and
The entire model was then given a gloss coat breeze. The ‘Setter’ allows you to move the
I decided to print my own decals for the build, and began by
of Johnsons Future Floor polish to produce a decal into position with ease; a cotton bud finding the correct font and size required before committing to
glossy finish for the decalling process. (q-tip) is then rolled across the decal to remove print on to decal paper.
any fluid and air from below the decal that may
Decals cause silvering. After a few minutes the ‘Softer’
After deciding on a colour scheme for the solution is applied which softens the decal,
build, I had trouble finding the Royal Air pulling it into any panel lines or contours it may
Maroc tail markings so made the decision to be covering.
print them myself. I already had to print the
registration and manufacturers serial number Finishing Off
details, so all I had to find was a decent Without doubt my favourite part of any build,
high resolution image of the tail markings. adding all the small parts that make the model
Before committing to print on decal paper, I come to life. Attaching the slaps and slats
first selected the correct font for the aircraft was an absolute breeze; the fit of these parts
registrations and small manufacturer’s serial was exceptional, needed no trimming at all.
numbers that are stencilled on the fuselage The landing gear and gear doors then were
sections, and printed these on regular paper. assembled and cemented into place, taking The Royal Air Maroc tail markings were also laser printed. I
Once happy with the size and style of the text care to get all the wheels in line and touching only had one image of the markings which were re-sized and
inverted to achieve both sides.
I printed a line of each type, again on regular the ground. Using a slow cure Cyanoacrylate
paper and noted the position of the text. To not glue will help with the positioning of the landing
FINAL VERDICT
Having previously built their Airbus A320 and Ilyushin IL-62, Zvezda has again produced a little gem in their
A321. From the separate flying surfaces to the quality of the mouldings and the ease at which it builds, it
certainly is a great airliner kit that is a pleasure to build. With both engines variants included, too, and
with the vast array of decals available, the choice of aircraft to build is endless. I thoroughly recommend
the kit, and with the release of several new kits this year, including the Boeing B777-300 and B787-900, I
will be building more in the future.
A
s the hugely successful A320 went into service in The maiden flight of the aircraft (F-WWIA) took place on the 11th
1988, and with commitments for 1983 aircraft from 10 of March 1993 and deliveries began to the two launch customers
customers, the designers at Airbus were already putting Germanys Lufthansa and Italy’s Alitalia just under a year later in
pencils to paper, designing the first of what would be January and March 1994 respectively. Like the A320, the A321 would
four derivatives of the A320. The new A321 would be a be offered with a choice of engines that included the International Aero
stretched version of the standard A320 with a fuselage extension Engine (IAE) V2500, which powered prototype aircraft No.1, and the
totalling 6.94 metres (22ft 9 in). Four plugs, two in front of the CFM56-5B which powered prototype No.2. However the basic A321-
wing at 4.27 metres (14ft 0 in) and two aft at 2.67 metres (8ft 9 in), 100s would have a reduced range compared to the A320 due the fact
would be inserted to achieve the new length of 44.51 metres. Other that extra fuel tanks were omitted because of extra weight penalties.
modifications were an increased wing area and double slotted flaps To overcome this, Airbus soon launched the ‘200’ series which would
to maintain performance. benefit from higher thrust engines, increased maximum take-off weight
STRIES A321
and additional fuel tanks for greater range. The ‘200’ first flew in
December of 1996 with the first aircraft entering service with the UK
engines and cabin. The most noticeable of these was the addition of
large winglets (Airbus name Sharklets). These modifications would
airline Monarch in April 1997. increase either payload of the aircraft or add an additional 100 nautical
Built in Hamburg, Germany, the A321 would be the first Airbus to miles range. Known as the A320ceo (Current engine option) deliveries
be built outside of France, and following the A321, the A319 and A318 of these aircraft began in December of 2012. The future for the A320
would also be built there. As of the end of September 2016, nearly 1400 is the NEO (New engine option). Two brand new engines options have
A321s had been delivered with around 350 still to be delivered. been developed, and with new interior layout, will provide airlines with
a further 20 per cent improvement in fuel consumption and an extra
The Airbus A321neo (New Engine Option) 500 nautical miles range. The first aircraft flew in September 2014 and
In 2006 Airbus began research and development into improvements deliveries began at the end of 2015.
to the A320 family. They included improvements to the aerodynamics, The Airbus A321neo first took to the air in February 2016, but suffered
Airbus A321-211 msn 0970 in the colours of German carrier, Germania. Delivered to Sabena, the national airline of Belgium in February 1999 she flew with them until their bankruptcy
in 2001. The aircraft then flew in Tunisia until joining Germania in May 2014. Photographed leaving Dusseldorf in March 2015, and has the CFMI CFM56-5B engines powering it.
Airbus A321-231
msn 2536 of
British Airways is
seen departing
Dusseldorf on
a return flight
to its base at
London Heathrow.
Delivered new
to the airline in
August 2005
and uses the IAE
V2533-A5 engine.
Airbus A321-232
msn 3462 of Greek
Airline, Aegean.
Based at Athens’
International
Airport since
delivery in 2008,
the aircraft is seen
departing London
Stansted for the
Greek capital.
Airbus A321-211 msn 2117 of KTHY Cyprus Turkish Airlines is seen arriving at London Stansted
on a summers evening in August 2008. Delivered new in 2004 and flew with the airline until their
failure in 2010, she now flies with Ural Airlines of Russia.
Airbus A321-211 msn 0684 of CSA Czech Airlines is seen departing London
Stansted on the 20th December 2008 for Prague. Originally delivered to Air
France in June 1997, the aircraft has had a number of operators and currently
flies with Germania based in Munich.
Airbus A321-232 msn 2730 is seen in the striking colour scheme of Royal
Jordanian Airlines on approach to London Heathrow’s runway 27 Left
on the 6th November 2007. The aircraft now flies with Monarch Airlines
based at Luton.
The IAE V2500 was offered soon after the CFM International engine and it different in appearance to the CFM. It is a collaboration of several large aero engine manufacturers including,
Rolls Royce and Pratt & Whitney.
CFM’s 56-5B engine powered the first of the A320 family of aircraft and is a joint venture between Safran Aircraft Engines (Formerly SNECMA), France and General Electric of the US. There are currently
10,000 of these engines powering Airbus’ around the world.
Airbus A321-211 msn 2270 in the classic colours of the national airline of Spain, Iberia. Delivered new to the airlines in late 2004 and named ‘Palmeral De Elche’. She is seen here taxiing for departure
from its base at Madris Barajas on a bitterly cold day in December 2008.
A HARRIER
MADE FOR TWO
This month we take a look at the construction and detailing of the cockpit.
With the nose complete and set (I left it for two weeks to start to settle down - time would show This picture gives you some idea of the number of pieces I cut before I had parts that were
that it would need several more months to begin to fully dry out…), the formers for the cockpit accurately shaped! Much trial and error was needed before the complex pieces had been cut - this
floors and bulkheads could be created from 1 mm plasticard. little lot taking almost a full day to sort out. When doing this, never be afraid to remake parts if they
are not correct; all you are wasting if you get it wrong is some plasticard and a little time.
Test-fitting the seats and windscreen. The windscreen turned out to be a really poor fit, needing much filling and sanding before it
would — eventually — blend in with the upper nose. The kit seats, unmodified, can be seen in this shot.
With the front cockpit done, I could move on to the rear station. In order to make the lining up of the This is when things started to go south. When building the central windscreen, I couldn’t get
various bits and pieces as accurate as possible, the floors and bulkheads were glued in place and everything to line up properly and it was only then that I noticed that the rear cockpit bulkhead and
then all detail built around those structures - everything being painted in situ. thus the ejection seat, was 5 mm too far forward…
Though rebuilding the rear cockpit was a pain, the resulting detail was actually neater and more The lefthand wall of the rear cockpit features a simple console that carries the throttle and engine
accurate than my first attempt. Unlike the front cockpit, where there is plenty of detail and the nozzle controls. As with the other details within the cockpit, I tried to copy as closely as I could
look is rather cramped, the rear cockpit is somewhat empty and bare. Some features are repeated (constrained by my levels of skill!) the details that I could see in my reference pictures. You can see
though, such as the oxygen gauges. The bundles of cabling were created with fine electrical and here that I have fixed the console to the sidewall; this was simply an easy way to ensure that these
lead wire. items were in the correct location and then allow other details to be built around them - odd I know,
but it worked in this instance!
The lefthand console in the front cockpit was similarly built and detailed. Note the odd shape of this Test-fitting the seat. There’s not much room to play with inside a Harrier’s cockpit!
feature; as this was a rather distinctive design aspect of the cockpit, I wanted to mimic the split
look of the console accurately, which in turn created some ‘interesting’ measurements and shapes
to cut… Once again, the console was built and then superglued to the cockpit wall, the floor being
used to ensure it was in the correct place.
If the cockpit is difficult, the seats are a nightmare! This is what Airfix offer to replicate the Harrier’s
Martin Baker Type 9 seat - hardly detailed, is it?! So, there is no choice but to either scratchbuild the
seats, or modify those supplied. I chose the latter and lived to regret it…
I began by removing the lower internal part The sides and headrest were plated with very The larger details around the headbox were The upper surfaces of the headbox were
of the seat, leaving just the sides, rear panel thin plasticard, a riveting tool being used to added with Evergreen plastic strip and rod and perhaps the most demanding area to detail,
and headrest. This was then detailed with emboss delicate rivets though each piece. then the seat cushions made from Magic Sculp, the numerous features that decorate this part
plasticard, rod and strip. Happy with the detail, each panel was VERY detailed with silicone sculpting tools and plenty of the seat needing to be correctly sized and fit
carefully glued in place with Gunze Sangyo Mr of baby talc. together accurately. Once again, Magic Sculp
Cement S, ensuring that only the edges were was used to create the soft parts, Evergreen
fixed so that the plastic was not deformed by being used for all remaining details.
too much adhesive.
There is a guard rail that runs around the Test fitting the seats. This was done before The front and rear seats differ in the use of Though virtually invisible save for the upper
righthand side of the headbox, this being the rear cockpit had been modified, hence the canopy breaker extensions that rise up from section, the rams that sit inside the seat rails
careful shaped from fine brass rod and then rather cramped look! The rear seat is also too the head box of the front one. This was actually were modelled using telescoped lengths of
fixed in place with superglue. low down in this shot, the completed part being a tricky little detail to get right, several attempts Albion Alloys’ aluminium tubing.
raised up within the cockpit of the completed being made to create that illusive shape. Even
model. now, I’m not sure that I have it right…
The rear cockpit is certainly simpler than the front, but needed no less care to paint. Smaller The use of bright reds and oranges in the rear cockpit certainly help liven up one in miniature!
features were picked out with Vallejo acrylics copying exactly the colours seen in my reference These areas were first basecoated in white and then overpainted with Vallejo red and orange. Note
shots. the warning placards created with stencils from the spare decal collection - just don’t look too
closely!
The completed cockpit painted and weathered and the nose fixed
to the rest of the fuselage. Next month we’ll take a look at how the
airframe came together, including the construction of those very
tricky intakes. See you then!
★
SPECIFICATION:
Tamiya 1/48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat
Kit No. 61114
Materials: IM
Availability: The Hobby Co
Price £69.99
BEFORE STARTING:
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya masking Tape
Swann-Morton Scalpel No.3 handle with no.11 blades
Wilder pointed tweezers
Mastercasters sponge sanders
Deluxe materials Perfect Plastic Putty
Micro drill and bits
Roket Rapid Super glue
Zipkicker
AIRBRUSH:
Iwata Revolution CR
PAINTS USED:
Vallejo Model Color:
70889 US Olive Drab
70862 Black Grey
70953 Flat Yellow
70947 Red
70951 White
Tamiya:
X-1 Gloss Black
X-2 Gloss White
X-7 Gloss Red
X-10 Gun Metal
X-11 Chrome Silver
X-23 Clear Blue
X-25 Clear Green
X-26 Clear Orange
X-31 Titanium Gold
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-2 Flat White
XF-4 Yellow Green
XF-5 Flat Green
XF-7 Flat Red
XF-19 Sky Grey
XF-20 Medium Grey
XF-49 Khaki
Fine White Primer aerosol
Humbrol Enamels:
85 Satin Black
64 Light Grey
Alclad II lacquers:
Aluminium
Steel
Exhaust Manifold
Jet Exhaust
Hot Metal Blue
Hot Metal Red
Hot Metal Sepia
Hogwash Dirt & Grime
Hogwash Dark Liquid streaks & stains
FIGH
28 MODEL AIRPLANE INTERNATIONAL - December 2016
GHTING 14 The Tomcat has been one of my favourite fast jets since I first saw the movie Top Gun as an
impressionable teen. As it probably did for countless others, it left an indelible image in
my mind of being big, fast and loud and given lots of Hollywood shine. Since my entry into the
hobby I have built more Tomcat models than probably any other aeroplane, in various scales and
from various companies - I just had to build Tamiya’s!
The nose wheel bay is cleverly designed and the moulded Once painted and detailed, it can be assembled via interlocking Optional parts allow the flight refuelling probe to be displayed
details react very well to an enamel wash to add some depth joins. Just apply glue sparingly to the outer edges for invisible open if you wish. Note the round locating points for the cockpit
and make the details ‘pop’. joins. and nose wheel bay inside the fuselage.
This small panel locates onto the left lower forward fuselage Before I could apply the glue, I had to really look to see where Here you can see how the cockpit/nose gear bay units all fit
and has the early gun gas vents. My guess is Tamiya will the join lines were, so precise was the fit! together and slot into the nose fuselage section. The black side
release a later mark with a differing panel containing the later walls were probably overkill; however, I did err on the side of
NACA style gun vents. caution to save any grey plastic being seen.
★
The cockpit is excellent straight from the box. All side consoles are moulded
separately from the tub to make painting easier (there are over 20 in the
cockpit alone!). All that is required is careful painting and weathering.
To install the moving swing-wings they first slot over conical Once aligned, the moving parts are secured with small washers With everything lined up the cross brace can be secured to hold
shaped pins at their pivot point. Ensure they are lined up and screws. Ensure these are hand tight, don’t overtighten the moving wings; four small screws are supplied and make
symmetrically. The White panels sprayed here are the wheel bay them! this a simple task.
roof panels.
Following the instructions for your chosen weapons loadout, The main wheel bays were sprayed with decanted Tamiya Tricky to see, but the main wheel bays have four parts each for
there are various holes that will need drilling out. I circled the Fine White primer. I masked off the fuselage edges to avoid their sidewalls, also note the intake ramps fitted here with the
ones I needed with red marker to ensure I drilled the correct overspray and fear of adding too much paint into the delicate hydraulic rams.
ones. surface details.
Poly caps are supplied to for the horizontal stabilisers to fit onto. Painting the main gear bays before assembly, paid off. As The upper fuselage section is made up from two large pieces
They are fitted small housings which are usefully noted as “L” can be seen here, they could prove difficult to get to with the which join here. Once again it falls onto a natural panel join line
and “R”. No glue is needed for the poly caps, just apply very airbrush once installed. Note the clean edges obtained by the so no need for fling or sanding.
sparingly around the housings. previously applied masking.
The locating tabs for the upper fuselage panels can be seen Once secured together, the joins create a small step along the The compressor fan faces and intake trunking units just ned
here. They interlock with a click fit. Also, note the chunky tubular top of the fuselage. Don’t be tempted to try and sand this away, careful painting and assembling. The completed one on the left
locating pins for the fuselage, these ensure everything is held it is supposed to be there. here shows just how neat the joins are.
together properly.
fuselage panels just forward of the wings weapons load out. Three options are given including the upper intake ramps and their
sweep sections along with the panels on the in the kit with a selection of AIM-54 Phoenix, hydraulic rams; these are handed so that they
lower fuselage. AIM-7E Sparrow and AIM-9G/H Sidewinders in simply cannot be put into the wrong sides. The
Before bringing the upper and lower rear varying configurations. Once again, the sheer internal structure for the wheel bay side walls
fuselage sections together there are some effort expended in Tamiya’s design comes all fit perfectly and can be slotted into place
locating holes to be opened for the preferred to the fore when assembling the fuselage and fixed with sparing amounts of liquid poly
★
When ready, secure the upper and lower
fuselage halves together. They click very
positively together, just apply glue to all
seams paying special attention to the forward
joins near the wings.
before being painted Flat White. the join allowing the wings to move freely
At this point I veered into unknown without the fear of the seams
territory for me (always a worry on a popping open.
brand new kit build!) and used an aerosol With the main fuselage assemblies
Fine White Primer from Tamiya that was put to one side, I concentrated on other
decanted into the airbrush. It was not subassemblies like the air intakes,
until I saw some youtube videos from wheels, undercarriage and tails.
MAI colleague Drewe Manton and editor The undercarriage legs took a little
Spencer Pollard that I saw how easy it is time to sort and assemble such is their
to do this; simply attach a length of plastic complexity, that said they all fit perfectly
drinking straw around the aerosol spray and have exacting locating points and
nozzle with some masking tape and shake are brilliantly accurate depictions. The
thoroughly as you would if spraying direct wheels are lacking in some tyre tread
from the can, then using gentle pressure details if that bothers you, but the hubs
I sprayed directly into the colour cup of are excellently detailed and reacted well
the airbrush and let the bubbles dissipate to a wash to make the details ‘pop’. If you
for a minute or two (this is simply the wanted to trade the wheels for aftermarket
propellant de-gassing) and then I was resin replacements, then take care as the
left with a colour cup of airbrush ready, attachment points are square so could
perfectly thinned fine white primer. I took cause fit issues. A dry fit of the painted and
unmasked intakes shows a neat
the precaution of masking off the external The air intakes were removed from demarcation inside of the grey
airframe around the wheel bays to save the sprue and dry-fit to check how they and white. I also painted outsides
more layers of paint than necessary going would attach; yet again the fit was just of the intakes, again, to avoid
onto the airframe and the fear of losing astonishingly good, each one clicking into overspray when painting the rest
of the model.
any of that fine panel line/rivet detail. place with ease. I sprayed the interiors
The last job to do before closing up with the decanted white primer before
the fuselage is to fit the unique poly caps checking my references and masking off
Tamiya include for the attachment of the the insides and spraying the Light Ghost
rear stabilisers, they are marked both L Gray on the inside which goes back about
and R for each side ensuring you cannot half way up the intakes, but check your
get them wrong. These allow you to leave references for the specific aircraft you are
the stabilisers off until the last minute just modelling. The very front titanium lips of
like with the wings. The upper fuselage the intakes are easily left off to be painted
is made up from two large parts which separately and added later. I thought I
join carefully along a natural joint on had found a fit problem here when fitting
the Tomcat fuselage, a recurring theme these, but it turned out (again) these
throughout this build as you can probably parts are handed and will fit only
tell. There is a slight step at the join line, perfectly on their correct
don’t fret; it is meant to be there. intake side.
I also painted the white
★
Moving On… wheel bay wall and the
When bringing together the upper and surrounding areas before
lower main fuselage panels make sure the fitting the air intake units.
With the nose section dry fitted it becomes clear the
seams along the leading edges forward This made things so intakes being painted first makes things a lot easier when
of where the wings attach are securely much easier when it came it comes to painting the rest of the lower fuselage.
glued, this is mentioned in the instructions to panting the main fuselage areas. The
and I assume is to ensure the integrity of accompanying photos will show this far
canopy and windscreen parts. These were form of the cartoon Tomcat design with the days in my loft so cannibalised the TCS unit
attached to croc clips, toothpicks and wooden “Fighting 14” legend printed on it representing from the chin pod and mounted it to the Tamiya
coffee stirrers in readiness for painting and the famous VF-14 Tophatters squadron. kit along with the supplied ECM unit that was
weathering in situ. After a bit of research, I found that the fitted to earlier marks of F-14A. A small, but
F-14A I intended to model was a slightly later significant addition to change the profile of
Painting And Weathering version than that in the kit, so needed a slight the Tomcat and a useful reminder of the need
I now had to choose some markings for my modification of the nose chin pod. I found an to keep checking your references as there
Tomcat. There is an almost endless amount old F-14 kit that had long since seen better are quite a lot of variables on the airframe
The Flat White panels of the main wheel bays on the intakes Once unmasked and dry fit, it becomes clear that this was the The wing and tail tips for my chosen scheme needed to be
were painted and masked off as were the wheel bays best option as it was much easier to paint the wheel bays like Black. I was airbrushing Gloss Black as an undercoat for the
themselves in the lower fuselage for me to paint the outsides this, giving a far neater edge. Alclad n the leading edges so sprayed them all in one go.
with Light Ghost Gray.
The patchwork effects can then be blended back with heavily The same techniques I used on the lower surfaces were applied The cleverly moulded one-piece windscreen unit is easily
thinned overspray of the base colours. I find it best to spray this to the upper surfaces when painting and weathering. Just masked and painted while still off the model. I basecoated it in
coat in a random cloudy fashion to add to the patchy look. substitute the Light Ghost Gray for the Dark Ghost Gray. flat black to make sure the insides would be seen as such.
The centre panel of the windscreen needs to painted clear blue, This panel can then simply be airbrushed clear blue. Using Mr. The crew access door panels and ladder recess needed some
so with care I removed this piece of masking tape. Color Leveling Thinners makes this job easier. careful masking before being painted flat white.
The scorch marks inside the afterburners were added using The flame rings of the afterburners are very deep inside the The AIM-9 Sidewinders were painted white with Gun Metal tips.
Humbrol Smoke weathering powder. You can see the before and jet exhausts, but can be seen. There they benefit from being The rollerons on the tails are easily masked off and painted with
after here with the unweathered can on the right. painted in Titanium Gold and received a wash of Dirt & Grime. Dull Aluminium. It takes a little time, but is ultimately worth it.
Very effective.
Don’t forget to mask off and paint the gun muzzle surround. I Though decals are supplied for the wing tip formation lights, The small fuselage mounted AOA and antennae were sprayed
used Alclad Aluminium. it proved difficult to get them to settle on the curved edge with Gun Metal and then had the tips touched in with Chrome
(Tamiya’s fit perfectly, I am told). I masked and sprayed mine. Silver. These were added at the last minute.
line. The wingtips and tail tops needed to for representing the TPS finish which is pretty
be black on my chosen scheme so I sprayed foolproof and starts with a base coat of the
them in Gloss Black and sprayed the wing main colours needed. In this case the colours
leading edges at the same time in order to which are commonly referred to as Light
give a reflective background for the Aluminium and Dark Ghost Gray or FS36375
★
which would be sprayed first to represent the and FS36320. I then applied some
corroguard coating. These sections were all streaking and staining straight
then masked off in readiness for painting. onto the just dried paint
I have developed a tried and tested method using some weathering
All major fuselage and wing components are here ready for
weathering having had their decals applied a light sealing
Gloss Clear sprayed on. Note the break in the fuselage, quite
unconventional, but it makes things easier.
36 MODEL AIRPLANE INTERNATIONAL - December 2016
Alclad enamel Hogwashes were used to define the panel lines The nose undercarriage leg fits positively into its locating The main undercarriage legs look very nice once installed with
and rivets as well as adding some general weathering; Dirt & point. Note the amount details that become apparent after the the wheels. The hub details are impressive, but the tyres lack
Grime and Dark Liquid Streaks & Stains were the two main weathering washes are added. depth for the tread.
shades I use for this task.
★
USS John F Kennedy in 1996.
It wasn’t until now that I realised that the model I
wanted to depict had the wrong gun gas vents and
it would be far too much effort to try and correct
or scratchbuild them now (so I won’t tell, if you
don’t!) the only other difference was the TCS chin
pod which I had previously added. This Tomcat
had been seen in the UK from what I could find
in an internet search, it was diverted to RNAS
Yeovilton after it couldn’t return to the carrier
while on exercise in the Irish Sea due to
bad weather.
Tamiya supply a fair
representation of the GRU-7(A)
ejection seats although
supply decals for the
seatbelts as is their
way. I am not a
fan of these
and never
have
SPECIFICATION:
Hasegawa 1:32 Ki-44
Kit No: FLY LIKE A
Materials: IM
Availability: All good model shops
Price:
BEFORE STARTING:
● Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
● Gunze Sangyo Mr.Cement S DEMON
● Tamiya Masking Tape
T
● Superglue
● Kristal Klear he Nakajima Type 2 “Shoki” was a single-seat fighter used by the Imperial
● Mr Surfacer 500
● Microsol Japanese Army Air force during the later parts of the Second World War.
In February of 1942 and after two years of development the officially
PAINTS USED: named Ki-44 finally entered service. The IJAAF had commissioned
White Ensign Enamels: the Nakajima aircraft company to build a heavy fighter with the
Nakajima Interior Green
Yellow emphasis on speed. The original design specs called for a top speed
of 600 km/h at 4,000 meters, a climb rate of five minutes to 5,000
Tamiya Acrylics:
Sky Blue meters, an operational area of 600 kilometres, and armament
Flat Earth consisting of two 7.7 mm and two 12.7 mm machine guns.
Flat Brown
Flat Black
These specs were intended to equal or surpass any aircraft
of the time. The demand for high speed though resulted
Gunze Sangyo Mr Hobby: in the design being fitted with small, thin main wings,
Blue Green Metallic
one unfortunate consequence of which was a
Vallejo Acrylics: very high landing speed. When introduced the
Tank Brown
Flat Black “Shoki” received mixed reviews from its
Medium Grey
Aluminium
Matt Varnish
Gloss Varnish
AK Interactive:
Brown For Green Vehicles Wash
Brown Earth Deposits
Mig Productions:
Dark Wash
Alclad II:
Aluminium
Dark Aluminium
Duraluminium
The instrument
panel, though small,
is finely detailed.
Hasegawa’s
cockpit is
superb,
42 MODEL AIRPLANE INTERNATIONAL - December 2016 straight from
the box.
The cowling
is a certainly
a major
feature of this
impressive
aircraft.
cockpit interior, but according to my references Brown and black was also airbrushed around punch set. These were carefully set in place
the only time these were used was for the the larger details to add some shadow. If you using Microsol decal solution to ensure they
ground crew to get access to the 7.7 mm find the difference between the shades too snuggled down nicely over the raised details.
cowling machine guns. So I left them closed, much, then a light misting of the original colour Once these had time to dry, I carefully painted
but there's nothing stopping you if you wanted heavily thinned will help to blend the shades the outside of the dials using Vallejo's Medium
to open them up. In fact I believe Eduard offer together. Once this had dried I airbrushed Grey (70.987).
a great photo etch replacement for them in one a coat of Future to protect the paintwork. I added some chipping by using a small
of their interior set. When working with acrylics I would normally sponge and Vallejo’s (71062) Aluminium. Most
skip this step, but as I was going to be using of the paint was removed before applying
Getting Started: Cockpit AK Interactive Brown For Green Vehicles it lightly around areas of high use. Some
All of the cockpit parts were removed from wash next, I had to make sure the paintwork staining, dust, and dirt deposits were also
the sprues and were cleaned up before was protected due to them using the same added using various AK Interactive and Mig
being separated into their different colours. thinner. I added the wash to help pick out the products to give it that lived-in look. Everything
Using White Ensign Models Nakajima Interior details and after about ten minutes removed was then given a light coat of Testors matt
Green (AC J 04), the respective parts and the excess with a brush dampened with AK varnish. The final touches to the cockpit
fuselage interiors were airbrushed with light Interactive's Odorless Thinners. The details were made by adding micro Kristal Klear to
coats building up into a solid colour. Some were then picked out using various Vallejo the dials to simulate the glass, and to add
Humbrol matt white and more enamel thinner Model Color shades mixed with distilled RB Productions Japanese Army Seat Belts.
were introduced to the paint cup to add some water. For the instrument panel, I cut out the This is the first time I've used these belts, but
highlights. A heavily thinned mix of Vallejo Tank dials from the decal sheet using Tamiya's it will definitely not be the last. Unlike other
As with most of
Hasegawa’s 1:32 kits, this
one takes little effort to
create an almost complete
airframe.
The ailerons
were painted to
reflect their fabric
construction…
aftermarket belts, these are made from paper using clamps and Tamiya tape. A quick swipe made up of two halves. The lower wing section
which when dampened with water take on with a sanding stick after the glue had set was stretches the full width of the wingspan, while
a very natural shape. Of course the buckles all that was needed to finish the job. There are the top halves are added leaving a gap to fit
etc are supplied as photo etch and they do two inserts that are needed on the sides of the fuselage between later. Before assembling
need assembled first, but they are incredibly the fuselage below the guns that just didn't fit the wings though there are several holes that
accurate and look fantastic once completed right for me. They required quite a bit of work need to be drilled for the fuel tanks and other
and fitted to the aircraft. Using a little gloss to get a smooth finish between the parts. To installations. Additionally there are a couple
varnish on the belts themselves, gives them a be honest I’m not overly happy with how this of parts to add that make up the back of the
leather look that I haven't found in any other part turned out, but I knew if I was to continue wheel wells, and a box like section that
product. Check out their website for a full list to work at them I’d probably only make them adds some strength and
of the belts and other tools they have on offer. worse so I left them as they were and carried rigidity to the build. Like
You'll not regret it. on with the build. This is definitely an area the fuselage, Tamiya
that I would be more aware of next time. I also Extra Thin Cement was
Airframe Construction added the top of the cowling which thankfully used to glue the wing
Closing up the fuselage was relatively stress fitted a lot better. Setting the fuselage to assembly together. Clamps
free. Using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and the side for the time being, I then turned my were again used to hold
working my way around the seam ensured a attention to the wings. everything together while
good join. The two halves were held in place Like most aircraft builds, the wings are the glue had time to cure.
made sure to polish the primed as many yellow (White Ensign Models AC J 19). The
surfaces with a polishing sponge of the antiglare panel on the top of the fuselage
and cloth to ensure as good a markings was also painted using WEM paints (AC J
surface as possible was obtained. as possible 08). This was lightened with Humbrol matt
As I’m sure you’re all aware by now, as the white before adding a few highlights. Finally,
when working with Alclad lacquers, the finished kit the internal sections of the wheel well were
surface preparation is everything as it always looks airbrushed with Mr Hobby’s H63 (Blue Green
will show up any scratches or scores a mile better with these Metallic). Once the majority of the airframe
away. So ensure your surface is as good as painted rather than using had been painted I sealed everything with a
you can get it before starting any airbrushing. the decals. So I started with the white bands coat of Vallejo varnish for metal finishes to seal
I used the Aluminium (101) colour as the around the wings and fuselage. Once these everything in.
main base spraying with a relatively low 12 were dry, the hinomarus were masked and I was going to use the decals for the unit
PSI. This was given 24 hours to dry before painted using White Ensign Models enamel insignias on the tail and the specific aircraft
masking up several panels and adding some paint (AC J 20). Next up was the blue band numbers as by this stage in the proceedings
Dark Aluminium (103). Again this was left around the fuselage and the top of the vertical
to dry for another day before repeating the stabiliser. For this I used Tamiya’s X-14 Sky
process on different panels with Duraluminium Blue which seemed a good match with the
(102). Once the masking had been color of the decals. The leading
removed and the paints had dried, I edges on the wings were
gave everything a light misting of the masked up and sprayed
original aluminium colour to bring white first before
the different shades together. While adding the
airbrushing the main assembly, I also
painted any of the separate parts that
would require the same metallic finish.
With the main painting done I moved onto
the markings. I decided to mask and airbrush
FINAL VERDICT
I have to be honest and admit this was not only my first 1/32 aircraft, but also my first attempt at creating a
metal finish. So any issue that I did have, were more with myself than problems with the kit. My only complaint
was the fit of the inserts on the fuselage, but in general this was a great introduction into a larger scale.
The fit of the parts was very good and the surface detail was typical Hasegawa, fine and nicely detailed.
Although there is always room for improvement if you wanted to go that extra mile with photo etch and resin
sets available. With a relatively small part count for a 1/32 aircraft, I’d definitely recommend this kit to
anyone of any skill level wanting to build a Ki-44. With the finished kit sitting beside me I’ve definitely
fallen for the overall shape and design of the Shoki, it’s a slightly unusual looking aircraft with the
horizontal stabilisers sitting slightly further forward than with most aircraft. It’s that huge radial engine,
short wingspan and the big shoulders where the wings join the fuselage though that really sets it apart. It
looks like a FW190 on Steroids, and that can only be a good thing!
THE ACE
MAKER
SPECIFICATION:
★
Eduard 1:48 F6F-5 Hellcat ‘Weekend’
Kit No: EDK8434
Materials: IM
Availability: All good model shops
Price: £16.30
BEFORE STARTING:
● Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
● Gunze Sangyo Mr.Cement S
● Tamiya masking Tape
● Swann-Morton Scalpel No.3 handle with no.11 blades
● Pointed tweezers
● Sponge sanders
PAINTS USED:
Tamiya:
Flat White
NATO Black
H
Issue 137 - www.modelairplaneinternational.com 49
The kit seat was replaced with an Ultracast part which has the The cockpit was assembled and painted using Tamiya and The etch brass fret included in the kit gives a wonderfully
seat belts moulded in place. Vallejo Acrylics. detailed instrument panel which brings the cockpit to life.
The canopy was masked off using the masks provided in the With the model primed, pre-shading was added using Tamiya Pre-shading was also applied to the undersides of the model,
kit, before Interior Green was sprayed on for the canopy frame NATO Black. with the areas around the cowl and exhaust getting extra
interior. attention.
The model was painted using AeroMaster and Mr Color The kit decals settle down nicely, with the national insignia With the decals sealed in place the model received a Flory
Acrylics, mixed and applied to give the appearance of wear and appearing somewhat stark. Models wash to pick out the panel lines and recesses.
shadows.
Finishing Off
With the airframe completed, attention
then turned to the engine, propeller and
undercarriage. The kit parts are really well
detailed – the engine on my kit had a set of
etch brass HT leads for the engine spark plugs
and the undercarriage legs bristle with details.
I took the decision to replace the wheels in
my kit with a set in resin from CMK which
feature a nice diamond tread pattern. As with
The engine was painted
the rest of the kit the parts were painted with separate to the model,
acrylics, with Flory washes applied to bring using Tamiya acrylics
out the details. The kit canopy is also provided with post shading to pick
with a set of masks, and following painting the out the details.
canopy was fixed in the open position using
Humbrol Clearfix. The kit gives the option of The kit wheels were
open or closed canopy parts. The model was replaced with a set from
completed by adding the navigation lights and CMK which fitted with
very slight adjustment.
aerials. ■
FINAL VERDICT
The Hellcat is an aircraft that stirs the imagination and provokes images of allied naval aviators with steely
determination attacking Japanese Bombers and dog fighting Kamikaze’s over the Pacific as the war in the Far East
drew towards VJ day.
Eduard’s kit is a wonderful rendition of this classic World War Two fighter and shows their capabilities as
a world class manufacturer. The quality, detail and fit of the parts is superb and I struggle to find fault
with the kit, additionally the strategy of having ‘Profipack’ and ‘Weekend’ versions of the kit opens up
possibilities for modellers on tighter budgets in terms of money or time. Several times during the build I
found myself shopping for another kit so I could build another variant as I was enjoying the build so much.
Thoroughly recommended.
MIDGET M
SPECIFICATION: BUILT AND WRITTEN BY VITOR COSTA
Eduard MiG-14 UTI
Kit No: EDK7055
Materials: IM
Availability: All good model shops
Price: £16.30
BEFORE STARTING:
● Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
● Gunze Sangyo Mr.Cement S
● Tamiya Masking Tape
● Swann-Morton Scalpel No.3 handle with no.11 blades
● Pointed tweezers We take a detailed look at Eduard’s MiG-15 trainer
● Sponge sanders
● Micro drill and bits
● Superglue Gel
● AK Decal Adapter
● AK Odorless Thinner
● Uschi fine size ‘Rig That Thing’
PAINTS USED:
AK Interactive:
AK2071 Brown and Green Paneliner
AK479 Aluminium
AK484 Burnt Metal
AK486 Jet Exhaust
AK041 Burnt Jet Engine
AK2042 Dark Rust
AK759 White Primer and Microfiller
AK758 Grey
Engine Oil
AK Ultra Matt
Tamiya Acrylics:
Semi-Flat Clear
X-22 Clear
XF-4 Yellow Green
The Kit
Being my first 1/72 Eduard kit, I confess I
was somehow surprised by the quality and
detail on the parts. When I removed the
sprues from the plastic bags, it looked like a
Tamiya kit! Very impressive.
For such a small kit, there are plenty
A cocktail stick was used to place some to the small photo- The cockpit detail is fine and well-moulded. A dark wash helps to bring out the finer features within the
etched parts within the cockpit. cockpit.
Many of the smaller parts were painted and weathered on the The cockpit and jet pipe has been fixed in place ready for the In order to ensure that detail would not be lost during the
runners - including these delicate little undercarriage doors. fuselage to be joined together. sanding process, the panel lines and rivets around areas that
would be sanded, were deepened.
of parts distributed over the four runners, delicious recessed surface details - some of the BUILDING THE MODEL
including the clear parts. You’ll also find very finest I’ve seen in a 1:72 kit. Without care, some
good, coloured photo-etch and a set of canopy may disappear during the putty/sanding process. The Cockpit
masks. Unfortunately, the grey colour on the The engineering is also very good and the As usual, the build starts with the cockpit,
photo-etch is a bit off when compared to the fit, except for the wings and nose, is near and here there is a lot to do. Being a two seat
paint that is recommended for the cockpit. perfect; in these two cases putty and sanding aircraft we have the double of the work. There
The parts are crisply moulded with many work is going to be needed. are some nice details on the side walls of
Decalling! AK’s decal adapter was used to help the individual Flats were added to the tyres using a fine razor saw. An oil paint wash was added to the undersides of the wings…
decals settle down over the model’s surface detail.
…And then buffed away to leave the wash within the delicate Compare the washed wing on the right, with the untreated With the lower surfaces washed, the upper surface camouflage
panel and rivet detail. panel on the left. was similar treated.
Here’s the model with all of the panel lines defined with several The camouflage was further muted with dots of oil paint that The random effect of adding the oil paints can be seen here.
layers of wash. were applied and then blended in with thinners.
not easy to remove the excess of putty, but it erased with the Milliput was rescribed. This dry and using a light grey oil colour, I applied
must be done if the finish is to be smooth and must be done several times and very gently, a drybrushed layer, finished off with a coat of
flaw-free. the first two passes being done using only the Tamiya Flat Clear.
scribing tool weight to make the line, with a
Wings And Things… couple of more intense passes, the line was Painting The Beast!
This is the most demanding part of this build: near perfect. Since all the lines are so tiny we As a break from traditional natural metal MiGs,
the fit of the wings to the fuselage. This is don’t need to engrave the line too much to I decided to build and paint the camouflaged,
far from being perfect and the way I choose make it look like it was already on the plastic. Algerian version.
to deal with it was to use Milliput Superfine To check if the line was okay, a light coat of There aren't many colour photos of these
White to allow me to scribe a new line without a mix of AK759 White Primer and Microfiller aircraft (I only found one), so working out
breaking the putty used to correct the joints. and Grey AK758, was applied. I opted to use a exactly how they looked, is somewhat tricky.
So with the help of this wonderful tool, the mix because the colour of the plastic is a little I didn’t trust the suggested colour in the
tooth pick, Milliput was applied using Tamiya bit dark, so a lighter colour will reveal more instructions for the undersides, so based on
tape to mask the areas where we need to easily any mistakes. the picture I found, I decided to make it lighter
apply it. Milliput is better in my opinion for The interior of the wheel wells was painted than seen in the instructions.
this kind of job because is harder than other with Gunze H308. I applied a pin wash using To prevent the scale effect where every
materials, being easy to scribe it when needed AK2071 Brown and Green Camouflage colour looks darker that it is in fact, I always
(like in this case) and it doesn’t shrink. Before Paneliner. Since I applied a generous coat apply a lighter shades, allowing the weathering
it is dry, we need to remove the tape along of Tamiya Clear, it was easier to remove the to darken the colours to a more
with any excess putty. wash using a cotton stick moistened with white acceptable tone.
Once dried and sanded, the line that we spirit. This was done with gentle passes. Once I started using Gunze acrylics H314 Blue
The mounting point for the aerial wire was carefully opened up The main undercarriage leg in place. On her feet at last!
with a fine drill.
Having completed the painting and weathering the canopy could Touching in the canopy sill with metallic paint. Pencils were used to add fine scratches and chips onto the
be removed. The use of PVA glue makes this step, easy. surface of the model.
FS35622 to add some lighting effects on the everything in with heavily thinned layers of the in perfect register and easy to work with. There
plastic, this way all the areas sprayed with this original colours used for the basecoats. are no more than 10 decals to apply for this
light blue would look lighter once the darker For the green, I mixed H80 Khaki Green scheme. AK Decal Adapter was used to fix
blue was applied. The colour used was a mix and H11 White. I don’t like to apply masks so the decals, and in less than one hour the job
of H314 with the H45 Light Blue also from I always paint camouflage, freehand. First I was done. The decals follow all the surface
Gunze in a ratio of 30% of H314 to 70% of painted the outlines of the patterns and then characteristics and even the smallest decals
H45. This produced a much lighter blue than once done, I filled in the patterns trying to give were filled by it and they are visible once the
that indicated in the painting instructions, it a random look, varying the intensity of the decals are dried.
where the H45 is the colour mentioned. coverage, thus making the weathering effect
Over the panel lines I applied several coats much easier to achieve. Weathering
of heavily thinned H45 to darken each one, To make the paint look faded by the sun and Time to make it look dirty and old! Using a mix
thus removing the need for any preshading. elements, I used Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green. of oil colours, white 80%, black 10% and Raw
Inside all of the avionics bays, white was Avoiding the lines, it’s easy to simulate the Umber 10%, a dark grey is obtained. Since
applied to give a look of faded paint. faded effect on the plain surfaces of the kit. I the colours on the kit are all very light it is not
Over the upper surfaces I used a mix of was looking for a faded look trying to blend the recommended to use a very dark wash like
Gunze H27 Tan with H11 Flat White for the two colours, a really thinned (90/10% thinner/ the black, otherwise the lines are going to look
base colour mixed 70/30. paint ratio) layer of paint was applied to cover very pronounced.
To create highlights and the faded paint any overspray since no masks were applied. With a flat brush the entire model was
I used H313. I concentrated more over the At this point a layer of Tamiya gloss paint was covered with the mix. Its important to assure
areas that are more exposed to sunlight and applied preparing the kit for the decals. that all surfaces are well-covered with acrylic
human intervention. When done, I blended The decals are very good, being well-printed gloss varnish. When the mix loses its shiny
A final layer of dirt was added with pigments. Uschi’s fine rigging thread was used to add the aerial wire… …As can be seen here.
look, is time to remove it. I wanted to make some areas a little bit lines and faded with white spirit. Once dry, it
With a clean cotton cloth we can start to darker due to the leaking of fluids and to was the time to randomly apply the engine oil
remove the majority of the wash, but not all, maintain operations. Using a very thinned near the place where its filled with the fuel,
then we remove the rest until we obtain the coated of Gunze acrylic H77 Tyre Black this once more, white spirit was applied to fade it.
desired look. The best way to do this, is as if area was darkened and then using a tooth By now all the smaller parts were ready to be
you are polishing the surface of the model, pick some previously applied liquid mask put on place.
working in the direction of the airflow. If too was removed, making visible some different A drill was used to make a hole into which
much is removed, we can always add a little bit shades of blue. Using AK084 Engine Oil and a small part of a needle was stuck to hold the
more in the desired areas. It is recommended AK 025 Fuel Stains some leaks of fuel and antenna cable.
to let the kit dry for some hours before moving other fluids were applied using a sharp brush. Now with all work done, the last coat of
on, usually one day being enough (there is no Returning to the upper surfaces that were now varnish was applied. I used AK Ultra Matt
need to take a risk so it is better to give it a dry, a general filter was applied to blend all the and Matt mix for the effect. Before the coat
little bit more time if we suspect it is not dry). colours and effects to give an even more faded was completely dry, it was time to remove
I started the next stage by applying a coat look to the paint. the clear parts. Using a hobby knife I gently
of Tamiya Semi-Gloss, since we are going to Using Van Gogh 620 Olive Green and removed the rear part, as expected the white
work with oil paint. 105 Titanium White, Sennelier Titanium glue having done its job. The interior was
I started by filling the avionics hatches with Buff, Naples Yellow and Bright Yellow Green completely sealed and it was easy to remove.
Buff. Without thinner I spread the paint, to some dots were applied randomly. Using a Using a brush, some shipping were
make these areas look more weathered than flat brush and white spirit, as the filter takes simulated with silver colour paint. Some
the rest of the surfaces. Some dots of Bright form following the wind flow direction, a more scratches on the paint were made using
Yellow Green, Sennelier oil paint, were applied realistic look was achieved. Aquarelle pencils. Dark earth pigments were
to the green areas of the paint and with the Once dry, another coat of Tamiya Semi-Flat applied to simulate dirtiness in the areas
help of some AK Odorless Thinner, the colour Clear was applied. where pilots and crew movement were more
was spread and faded. Over the Tan areas I constant.
used Sennelier Titanium Buff, repeating the Finishing Off Clear parts were glued in place along with
previous steps and concentrating on the areas With the paint job done it was time to finish the antenna wire. I used Uschi fine size ‘Rig
that would have undergone the most use and the last details. The two drop-tanks received That Thing’ for the effect,
wear. The bottom part of the kit was weathered a mix of oils and AK Engine Oil. The using tweezers and super
with white using the same method. oil was applied over the panel glue it was an easy task. ■
FINAL VERDICT
This is not a kit for beginners. Though exhibiting an astonishing level of detail, with some of the best panel
lines I’ve seen, it can be a little bit tricky in some areas. The wings junctions require much more putty than
I was expecting, but it looks amazing once finished!
32111 Sopwith Pup Landing Gear (WW) 48316 P-40C Landing Gear (Bro)
(replacement for 1/32 Wingnut Wings) (replacement for 1/48 Bronco)
48317 F2H-2 Banshee Landing Gear (KH) 48318 F-14 Tomcat Landing Gear (Tam)
(for 1/48 Kitty Hawk) (for 1/48 Tamiya)
MSRP $11.95
www.scaleaircraftconversions.com
BINDERS
Keep your Model Airplane
International collection safe in a
high quality binder.
Each binder holds 12 issues.
SPECIFICATION:
Scale: 1:48
Kit No: 04517
Materials: IM
Available From: Hannants
Price Guide: £19.99
BEFORE STARTING:
● Humbrol Liquid Poly
● Tamiya Masking Tape
● Sprue Cutters
● Tweezers
● Swann Morton No3 Scalpel & 10A Blades
● Plasti-Zap Cyanoacrylate Glue Dassault’s Rafale is one of the current
crop of European 4th generation fighter
● GSI Creos Mr. Cement S
● GSI Creos Mr. Surfacer 500
● Microscale Micro Set and Sol Decal Solution aircraft which is currently vying for
international sales with the Swedish
● Microscale Micro Kristal Klear
Humbrol:
33 Matt Black
34 Matt White
11 Silver
56 Aluminium
Flory Washes:
Black
AIRBRUSH USED :
Iwata HP-B Plus
ACCESSORIES USED
Eduard Rafale EDS 359
REFERENCES:
● Internet – very few books available
glued into the underside of the top half of the the fuselage to the fin. This needed quite a bit
fuselage. The main undercarriage bays were of careful filling and sanding to blend it into
then painted next before installing these in the the fuselage and then the engraved detail had
lower half of the fuselage along with the nose to be re-done where it had been sanded
gear bay. The upper and lower halves of the away. I now had a pretty complete
fuselage were then glued together. There is airframe, the canards were not
not much in the way of seams to deal with as added when the fuselage was
the wings hide the bulk of them however the glued together (as per the
join along the nose is not particularly good instructions) so I cut these
and took a few sessions of filling and sanding off the rod which joined
until I had something I was happy with. them together
and test fitted
Moving On these to the
With the fuselage complete, the wings and fin airframe.
were added along with spine which runs along I was
FINAL VERDICT
Other than the dodgy instructions this kit is hard to fault. It builds well, like most Revell
kits it’s a great price and the resulting build looks great. I really enjoyed this build, I need
Revell’s Typhoon to go along side it now!
IN COLOUR!
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALAN FIRBANK
A specially
marked Rafale
C at RIAT 2013
celebrated
30,000 flying
hours.
We don’t see
the French
Navy Rafale M
very often at
UK shows. This
one performs
at RNAS
Yeovilton’s Air
Show in 2011.
A dull arrivals day at Florennes in June 2016 sees the arrival of a French Rafale C for the Belgian Air
Force’s Show Weekend.
Back on the
runway, the
30,000 Hour
Rafale C at
Fairford in French gallantry turns into French
2013. embarrassment when the Rafale’s nose wheel
steering locks at ninety degrees on Fairford’s
runway during the 2013 show.
F R E E
G I F T WO R T H
We have teamed up with our fr
you a special gift for subscribi
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Craft tool sets are perfect for m
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EE
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FIRST LOOK!
MENG’s 1:48 P-51 Mustang will soon hit the model shop shelves. Brett Green brings us an appraisal of a very early
sample, of what looks to be a very fine kit…
T
he prototype NA-73X Mustang hampered by poor visibility through its Fujimi, Arii/Otaki, ICM, Hasegawa, Tamiya
was designed and rolled out by heavily framed canopy. It was also difficult and more.
North American Aviation a mere to bail out in an emergency due to the The consensus is that Tamiya’s 1995
102 days after the specifica- multi part canopy. The Malcolm Hood was offering is the best 1/48 scale P-51D
tion was issued by the British a sliding, one-piece canopy designed by Mustang at this stage, although it is not
Purchasing Commission. The initial op- the British to be fitted to the Mustang III to without its minor issues. These include
erational Mustang variants were powered address the bailout problem. However, this stepped landing flaps, separate clear
by the Allison V-1710 engine, which was was a stopgap measure. bubble section and canopy frame (making
optimised for low-altitude performance. The airframe was therefore redesigned it difficult to get a clean join) and incorrect
The P-51 Mustang flew its first opera- with a cut-down rear fuselage and a large, configuration of the main undercarriage bay.
tional missions with the Royal Air Force bubble-topped sliding canopy. This would Let’s see what MENG has in store for us.
in the reconnaissance and fighter-bomber become the P-51D - the definitive version
roles. of the Mustang, and perhaps the classic In The Box…
The combination of a Rolls Royce Merlin American fighter of the Second World War. A cement-free MENG Mustang? Really?
engine with the innovative airframe and A total of 7,956 P-51Ds were produced. Yes, really. And it’s very nice. In fact,
laminar flow wing design of the A-35/P- North American’s Inglewood factory could despite the connotations that “Cement Free
51A resulted in one of the best fighter not keep up with the pressing demand for Assembly” might conjure up, there are very
aircraft of World War Two. However, the this high-performance fighter, so production few compromises to this model in terms of
P-51B/C series (Mustang III) was somewhat was also undertaken at Dallas. There was detail or parts breakdown as a result of its
Both Hamilton Standard and Aeroproducts do not suffer from the lengthwise step found on the is moulded with the frame, so you won’t have
propeller blades are included. These are moulded Tamiya kit. The rudder is also a separate part but any trouble getting a nice clean painting line. The
in pairs, with the front pair including the hub. Two the elevators are moulded flat with the horizontal windscreen is moulded with a small section of the
subtly different propeller spinner assemblies are also stabilisers. upper fuselage, once again ensuring a clean join and
included. The kit also offers the choice of shrouded or painting demarcation. All transparencies are clear,
exposed exhausts. These are moulded as one piece The kit also includes the following options: thin and free from distortion.
per side and the ends of the stubs are hollowed out. ● The machine gun panels on the wing leading edge ● A canopy mounted rear view mirror is also moulded
The main landing gear bay is well detailed and are separate inserts. This avoids the tricky seam/join as a clear part. This is the only part the instructions
the shape is correct. I believe this is a first for any that would otherwise run through the centre of the direct you to glue in place!
1/48 scale P-51D Mustang. The instructions indicate gun muzzles.
that the main gear legs should be fitted before the ● The radiator flap may be posed open, and MENG Markings
undercarriage bay is glued to the inside of the lower offers the choice of perforated or plain lower side air Decals are supplied for two aircraft. Both are in
wing, but I’ll be checking to see if this can be done intake panels. overall natural metal:
later in the assembly sequence. The diamond tread ● Other options include two 108 gallon paper drop
tyres and wheel hubs are separate parts. tanks ● “American Beauty” P-51D Serial No. 44-15459.
Ailerons and landing flaps are separate parts held ● Two 75 gallon metal drop tanks 308th FS 31st FG USAAF, Capt. John Voll.
in place with tabs. The ailerons are in the neutral ● Two 100 lb bombs ● “Short Fuse Sallee” P-51D Serial No. 44-15622.
position while the flaps are dropped. A moderately ● DF loop. 356th FS 354th FG 9th AF USAAF. Capt. Richard
experienced modeller should be able to easily adjust ● Two styles of sliding canopy are included – Turner.
the pose to their own taste. By the way, the flaps Inglewood and Dallas. The clear bubble section
VERDICT
MENG has taken an interesting and innovative approach with their new 1/48 scale P-51D Mustang. Their philosophy reminds me of 21st Century Toys’ later 1/32
scale releases, although this new MENG kit features a higher level of detail and much better surface finesse even in this smaller scale.
This is a great way to encourage new and younger modellers while still offering a well-detailed and attractive kit of a very popular subject to the experts.
Regardless of its glue-free status, in my opinion MENG’s P-51D has now snatched the title of best 1/48 scale bubbletop Mustang available today. Of course, we’ll
need to build the kit to confirm this, but I guarantee that you won’t have to wait for long! Highly Recommended!
Aleksandar Pocuc
‘
SCALE MODELLING:
A LOVE STORY READY Modeller’s guide to
TO ASSEMBLE superdetailing, painting and
weathering aircraft of WWII’
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
book is intended for both
TECHNIQUES beginners and advanced
modellers as it covers wide variety
BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT of modelling tasks ranging from
■ SPITFIRE MK. IXC basic detailing, scratch-building,
■ P-47D THUNDERBOLT painting, weathering, machining
■ JU-87D ‘STUKA’ custom parts using resin as well as
scratch-building part from brass and
MAKING A DIORAMA
aluminium and of course, diorama
making. Basics about tools, paints
and modelling materials have
been covered as well. The book
revolves around three subjects,
P-47D Razorback, Spitfire Mk.IXc
and Junkers Ju-87D Stuka, all in
32nd scale. Step by step concept
will provide a good reference and
ideas to all WWII aircraft modellers
www.doolittlemedia.com
✆ 01525 222573
✉ [email protected]
FOR ONLY
DOOLITTLE MEDIA, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX. United Kingdon.
TEL: +44(0)1525 222573. FAX: +44(0)1525 222574. ONLINE: www.adhbooks.com
W
e are seeing regular released in MMP’s excellent ‘Spotlight On’ and
this is another in the growing reference series. The Chance-Vought
Corsair was the US Navy’s best carrier-based fighter of WWII and
continued in service throughout the Korean War and into the 1950s.
The Corsair was big and heavy but very powerful and could outclass
the opposition in almost every respect. It was also popular on the ships, being the first US
Navy fighter with a wing-fold mechanism activated by the pilot and not needing a number
of deck crew on hand to reduce the aircraft to its compact on-deck dimensions.
This book, portrait on the outside and landscape on the inside, illustrates schemes used on
Corsairs until the end of the war in 1945. The book opens with a page of text briefly covering
the development and introduction into service of the Corsair. The following page of copy goes
into the ‘whys and where-fors’ of the red outline around the fuselage-side US Navy insignia. We
have seen the red border on some decals and in many instances these should not be present.
Any aircraft arriving in the Pacific with a red border on its insignia had them over-painted very
quickly. Even this small amount of red was enough to confuse defending gunners.
Then follows the rest of the text pages showing mainly side profiles of Corsair version and
in the various colour schemes. Early ‘Bird Cage’ canopy Corsairs were in a two-tone scheme
of NS Blue Grey with NS Light Grey undersides. A tri-colour scheme of Sea Blue, Intermediate
Blue and White followed but most Corsairs appeared in overall Sea Blue with some spectacular
unit markings. The last few pages show schemes used by the Royal Navy and the Royal New
Zealand Air Force.
There are dozens of Corsair kits, in all the scales with the two Corsair versions in 1:32 by
Tamiya at the top of the list. Anyone with a kit on the shelf will find loads of inspiration between
the covers of this excellent new Spotlight On book.
SPITFIRE IN SWEDEN
■ By Mikael Forslund
■ Published by Mikael Forslund Produktion AB via Mushroom Model Publications
■ Guide Price £40.00
■ ISBN: 978-91-977677-8-1
■ 208pp hardback, 220 x 305 mm
M
ikael Forslund’s latest book is a The author goes on to describe Sweden’s abortive
celebration of 80 Spitfire years attempts to buy Spitfire for the air force. Looking for
from the first flight of the Spitfire late marks, the Swedes were offered obsolete Mk.IXs
in 1936 and of the use of Spitfires at an astonishing price of £4,000 each, a fortune in
in Swedish Air Force service. 1946. In 1948, an agreement between Sweden and
Looking to more recent times, the author looks at the Britain was made to purchase 70 Spitfire P.R.
Swedish Warbird Spitfires and museums, etc. Mk.XIXs. After the agreement was made it was only
The first couple of pages give a useful list of Spitfire possible to find 50 machines to send to Sweden.
versions from the first prototypes to the last, the This book tells the story of the introduction of
Seafire Mk.47 that saw action in the Korean War. An the photoreconnaissance Spitfires into service and
interesting note at the end of the list is the fact that their operation. The book covers all aspects of the
there are 236 Spitfire/Seafires remaining in various Swedish Spitfires including maintenance as well as
stages of preservation around the world with (at the flight operations. Each section is richly illustrated with
time of writing) 54 in flying condition. We are lucky to pictures and diagrams. The profiles and reminiscences
have over half of these in the UK. of the men who worked with the Spitfires make for
Only one Spitfire made it to Sweden during WWII fascinating reading.
and that was unintentional. A Spitfire PR.IV was on Towards the end of the book, we find scale
a mission from Wick in Scotland, searching for the drawings, colour profiles and photos of preserved
Tirpitz, hiding in Norwegian waters when it was caught Spitfires. The book concludes with a description of the
by anti-aircraft fire. The pilot of the damaged plane restoration of Spitfire P.R. Mk.IV (BP923) to airworthy
decided against attempting to cross the North Sea and condition showing the continued Swedish interest in
flew inland. When the Spitfire became uncontrollable, the Spitfire.
the pilot baled out and was surprised to find that he There is plenty of interesting information in this
had landed in Sweden and not occupied Norway. His book for those modellers interested in Spitfires
plane crashed a short time later and PO Whitaker and Swedish aviation, etc. This book comes highly
spent the next few months in custody in Sweden. recommended from several points of view.
C
■ Published by Cross and Cockade International
■ Guide Price: See Cross and Cockade’s web site for subscription rates ross and Cockade Interna- on WWI seaplanes, featuring the Sopwith
■ ISSN: 1360-9009 tional is an Aviation Society Schneider Seaplan, the birth of the Serbian
■ 80pp softback, 297 x 210 mm with a collective interest in Aviation Command and Morane Saulnier
all aviation topics from the Aircraft on the Western Front 1914-1917, to
WWI period. We have a copy mention a few. Each article is illustrated with
of their Autumn quarterly journal for review many photos of aircraft of the time, technical
this month. Any modeller whose interest is diagrams and profiles of those operating the
principally WWI aircraft will find member- aircraft. The back cover is illustrated with a
ship of the society useful and interesting. A variety of aircraft shown in colour.
normal annual subscription is great value, WWI modellers will gain much from a
currently at £27. As well as the quarterly subscription to Cross and Cockade, if only for
journal meeting of members are held in the four journals each year. At only around a
various places during the year. The next quarter the price of a Wingnut Wings kit, the
ones are held in pubs in York and Romford cost of an annual subscription looks to be a
and are open to guests too. good deal to us.
This autumn issue includes chapters
T
he Miles Aircraft company are that all of the research and development MILES M.52 - BRITAIN’S TOP SECRET
known for their mild-mannered information was handed to the Americans ‘on
aircraft such as the Gemini and a plate’. There is little doubt that much of the SUPERSONIC RESEARCH AIRCRAFT
Magister so it came as a great Miles team’s hard work helped the Americans
■ By Tony Buttler
surprise to receive this book and develop the Bell X-1 that would be the first
■ Published by Crécy Publishing
learn about the M.52 project. aircraft to break the sound barrier. We see that
■ Guide Price £24.95
Miles were involved in the top-secret there are several similarities between the M.52
■ ISBN: 978-1-91080-904
programme to build a supersonic aircraft, and the X-1, apart from the power plant. In the
■ 160pp hardback, 290 x 225 mm
using many ground breaking materials, design case of the M.52, a jet and the X-1’s rocket
and technology. Frank Whittle was involved in engine. The use of a rocket engine negates
producing a jet engine with an early attempt the need for an air intake. Unless information
at a reheat/afterburner that would boost the emerges to counter the belief that much data
power of the engine. Following the capture passed to the Americans helped Bell produce
of a German engineer who brought reports the X-1, one can only conclude that they would
of Germany developing an aircraft capable of not have had the success that they did without
1,000 mph plus, the British government set up Miles’ input.
a team at Miles with the intention of producing This is a fascinating read and highly
an aircraft capable of a similar performance. recommended to those with an interest
The sensitive nature of the work made this a in aviation history and the intrigue of the
very hush-hush project. authorities at the end of World War II. We
This book tells the full story, using can’t help but wonder at the thinking of the
declassified material, of how the team was government of the time, so willing to hand over
formed and how the M.52 was progressed. the M.52 information to America and jet engine
Many photos and diagrams illustrate the text technology to the Russians.
that concludes with the astonishing revelation
T
MIKOYAN MIG-17 his is another astonishing
publication from Hikoki, taking
by China. The list of MiG-17 operators is a long
one, spanning much of the globe. Although too
■ By Yefim Gordon and Dmitriy Komissarov an in-depth look at everything late to take part in the Korean War, the MiG-17
■ Published by Hikoki Publications Ltd/Crécy MiG-17. The authors have an played a large part in fighting in Vietnam and
■ Guide Price £39.95 amazing reputation for past the short wars in the Middle East. We see
■ ISBN: 978-1-8578-0372-3 work in Russian aviation literature. We can many accounts of the MiG-17 being used in
■ 480pp hardback, 290 x 225 mm only marvel at the amount of work that will combat. Tactics are described and camera gun
have gone into producing this two-kilo plus and reconnaissance photos are used to help
book of almost five hundred pages. Those describe the action. The book is not just ‘dry’
of us, of a certain age, can remember the facts and figures by any means containing
very indistinct photos we used to see of hours of interesting reading.
Russian aircraft during the early days of From the modelling point of view, anyone
MiG-17 operations. The book contains hun- looking for reference for a MiG-17 project will
dreds of excellent photos of the MiG-17, find this book the ‘one stop shop’. The depth
its variants, with many in colour and many of coverage of the type is just astonishing. The
colour profiles showing MiG-17s in export aircraft is covered in great detail, inside and
country’s national markings and many out with detailed photos and diagrams of just
camouflage schemes. about every part of the plane. The cover price
After taking a look at the origins of the is not cheap but represents excellent value
aircraft, a much-improved MiG-15, we see the for money. Highly recommended to anyone
MiG-17 in production and sub-types that came with even the slightest interest in the subject.
along. Many of the Warsaw Pact countries, The more I look through this book, the more
Arab and African nations operated MiG-17s. A I take off my hat to the authors. One for your
home-built MiG-17 was used in large numbers Christmas list? (Alan Firbank)
teamed up with IPMS Brampton £5, children under 12 £2, OAPs £4,
modelling related Official Guinness Organiser: Bristol BMSS & South West
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70
s c r i b e To d
To d
GE
ay Subs
NEXT ISSUE
ub
c
rib
e To d a y S
SO WHAT’S PLANNED FOR THE NEXT ISSUE?
TROJAN
WARRIOR
Greg Phillips build Roden’s 1:48
North American T-28D Trojan
T
he Rockwell-Messerschmitt- type with canards, plus underfuselage intake), leaning towards tackling tis aircraft as a full
Bölkow-Blohm X-31 Enhanced and the German TKF-90 (wing planform scratchbuild, using some spare kits to provide
Fighter Manoeuvrability program concepts and underfuselage intake), F/A-18 the detailed bits and pieces.
was designed to test fighter thrust (forebody, including cockpit, ejection seat, and But why, given that there are so many
vectoring technology. Thrust canopy; electrical generators), F-16 (landing cool kits, would I want to build something
vectoring provides additional control authority gear, fuel pump, rudder pedals, nosewheel from scratch? Simply put, the challenge.
in pitch and yaw, resulting in significantly tires, and emergency power unit), F-16XL Over the years it’s been fun to push my skills
more manoeuvrability than most conventional (leading-edge flap drives), V-22 (control and see where they will take me. I’ve made
fighters. An advanced flight control system surface actuators), Cessna Citation (main other models from scratch, but never had the
provides controlled flight at high angles of gear’s wheels and brakes), F-20 (hydrazine confidence to build an aircraft from the ground
attack where conventional aircraft would stall emergency air-start system, later replaced), up. Now, I want to see if I can do that and the
or lose control. B-1 (spindles from its control vanes used for X-31 seems to be the perfect choice.
The X-31 design was essentially an all-new the canards). This was done on purpose, If this model ever sees the light of day,
air-frame design, although it borrowed heavily so that development time and risk would be I’ll chart its progress and then let you see
on design elements and sometimes actual reduced by using flight-qualified components. the results. All I have to do is get the Harrier
parts of previous production, prototype, and Given that a lot of this aircraft features finished, first! ■
conceptual aircraft designs, including: the off-the-shelf components and having
Experimental Airplane Program (choice of wing learned a lot from my Harrier conversion, I’m
STRATOFORTRESS
Abdul Aziz AB, Jeddah Saudi Arabia, March 1991, 801st BW, Morón AB, Spain, February
1991, 4300th BW, Diego Garcia AFB, January 1991 and 379th BW, Wurtsmith SAC AFB,
Michigan, USA, 1977.