Pocketknife Making For Beginners PDF

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. CONTENTS
A FewWords Up Front 4
1 Preparation
.1 In General 8
.2 Choice of Materials 9
.2.1 Blade Steel IO
.2.2 Materials for Handles and Other Parts 13
.3 Tools 14
.3.1 The File:The Most ImportantTool 14
.3.2 Sandpaper/Abrasive Cloth I7
.3.3 Working with Alignment Pins and Drilling Holes 18
.3.4 Washers 18
.3.5 Vise 21
.3.6 Drill Press 21
2 Slipjoint Folding Knife

2.1 Designíng and Drawing aTemplate 22
2.2 Working on the Handle 33
2.3 Creating the Blade 38
2.4 Construction of the Backspring 54
2.5 Finishing theTang 64
2.6 Precisión Work on the Blade and Spring 70
2.7 Intermedíate Check and Washers 72
2.8 Handle Scales 77
2.9 Assembly and Finish 83
2.10 Variations 88
2.10.1 Blade Tang 88
2.1 0.2 Pivot Variations 90
3 Friction Folding Knife

3.1 Designing and Drawing aTemplate 92
3.2 Creating the Blade , 96
3.3 Working on the Handle 98
3.4 Grinding the Blade I IO
3.5 Connecting the Ferrule with Blade and Handle 113
3.6 Assembly and Finish 120
6 A FewWords Up Front
Constructinga folding k n i f e using only a few machines and tools was

a new technical frontier for me. Prior to all the ertbrts that go into the
finishing process, I'm otherwise used to using all the great machines
that are surrounding me in my workshop. Giving up these habits and
using simple tools instead wasn't always easy for me.
Rut this is exactly what keeps us going: new challenges, shapes, and
materials. If yon are using this book to tackle folding knives, you'll
see howcomplex the whole issue is. But don'I be afraid: it will all t u r n
out wcll—in a vcry pivotal sense.
F.ven Peter sometimes was keen on trading his camera for a file. I hope
that I don't lose him to the knifemaker's world because oí our book
projects. He ought to stay with us as a photographer and aulhor.
Stefan Steigerwald
A FewWords Up Front 7
After describing quite complicated knife projects in the last few

volumes, this time wc wanted to come up with something simpler with
respect to construction, and simpler and quicker in manufacturing—
utility knives that can bebuilt without a big collection of power tools
and machines.
Although a slipjoint folding knife looks quite simple at first glance, as

yon start understanding the design, you realize that its not that easy
at all because here—similar to a backlock—the backspring fulfills
several íunctions at once.
As usual, we have documented every step of the process and rather

than omit anything, wc e ven added descriptions oí intermedíate steps.
Whoever íbllows the manual step by step and uses a témplate befo re
starting to build at random will soon hold a functioning slipjoint
folding knifc in their hands.
But my favorite among these knives was only found towards the end
of the production: it's the friction folder. Out of a blade, a strip of
metal, a piece of wood, and a few rivets, a usable pocket knife was
constructed quite rapidly.
Among pocket knife enthusiasts, I belong to the "mechanics faction."

1hc more complicated the locking mechanism, the more interesting
a knife is to me. Usually. The friction folder is the exception. A knife
that has just the necessary parts has a special charm that you can
hardly escape.
Such a knife is also rather quick to build. The material doesn't have to
be expensive and with the exception oí a drill press machine and a tew
files and sandpaper, no tools are used beyond common shop tools. In
addition to this, a friction folder is very lightweight—the ideal knife
for a little snack between work. Rye bread, ham, and the homemade
folder. Have fun and bon appetit!
I'etcr Fronteddu
Preparation
I. I In General
With respect to building a slipjoint, as well as a friction folder, there

are different approaches. We settled on using as many simple tools as
possible—not the big industrial machine shop toys that Stefan Steigerwald
is used to. But this approach may not be for every interested knifemaker.
Slipjoint and friction tblders are unspoilt, simple conslructions. Many
traditional pocket knives have been manuf actured in this style for decades,
maybe even centuries—like the Laguiole in Franco or the Resol/a from
Sardinia. And as simple and very reasonable utility knives, they slill prove
to be successful nowadays, despitc new technological developments.
Compared to linerlocks or backlocks, these knife types require fewer

parís ibr construction. Thc friction folder, in particular, doesn't demand
the tight tolerances that have to be kept with complicated locking
mechanisms. The knives were riveted at the handlc and the pivot, they
were not—as Stefan Steigerwald usually does—screwed togelher. The
tight fit is accomplished by means of vigorously hitting the rivets. Somc
parts, the clarap or blade pivot, íor example, were made from whatevcr
happcned to be laying around the workshop or the house.
Of course, slipjoints or Iriction folders can also be constructed by

means of diflérent tcchnical Solutions and processes. As in our previous
knifcmakingguides, we describe Stefan Steigerwald's mcthods. Someare
the same as those he uses lor tolders in general, but variations occurred
when dealing with spccific pieces of work. Thus this volume is not mean!
to be a strict manual for building a folder. It is rather meant to stimulale
and encourage the reader to try building a folding knife of his/her own.
You'll find your own way of doing it through your work.
Of coursCí there liad to be the typical Steigerwald scale knife once again,
and Ibr one slipjoint model, I Jamascus steel wíth just the righl dimensions
was laying on the workbench. líut there are easier ways, as pointed out
by the examples.
Preparad o n 9
Finally, a remark with rcspect to work safety: in order to takcgood photos

of each individual work step, wc rctraincd from the usual precautions
with rcspect to satcty. Kverybody who is about to start building a kniíe
should look up thc guidelines nccessary for safety at work. Among thcsc
are wearing prolective goggles and sccurcly dumping or othcrwisc fixing
thc parís you are working with. This is especially thc case for working
with power tools.
1.2 Cholee of Materials

TraditionaJ malcriáis have been used to build classic slipjoints and íriclion
folders íor a long time. 1 he blades are niostíy niade of simple carbón steels,
but nowadays stainless steels like 440A, 440 H, Sandvik 12C27, or similar
steels are increasingly used. For the handles, mainly natural materials,
like suitablc kinds of wood, horn, or bonos wcre used. Ot course, there
is nothing that says you can't use modern and cxpcnsive materials whcn
takingon simple knife construction. A slipjoint with powdcr mctallurgical
steci, tilaniuní liners, and handle scales made of carbón fiber has its spccial
appcal. For the beginners, however, for whom this volume is focused,
several factors contribute to the choice of materials:
1. Avnilability: Parts like the pivot of a friction folder, the clamp, or

the handle ot plain wood can be found in a córner of your workshop.
Building something from available parts can be very exciting and also
saves nioncy.
2. Workability: Basically, every knilc can be buill by mcans ot a file, a

drill, and a bit of sandpaper. But it is easier to use a blade stecl that can
be filed and polished easily. Liners made out of nickel silver or brass are
also easier to work with com pared to steel or litan i uní.
3. Price: For somebody who has just started to work on their very ñrst
knife, it doesn't make sense to do so with the most expensive materials.
Apart from workability, botching a blade of Crucible Partido Metallurgy
(CPM) or Damascus, liners of titanium, and handle scales of mother-of-
pearl is an annoying waste of money. Timéis neverwasted, it isa period
of learning. And during this period, rather plain materials, which are
1 2 Preparation
The discussion about whicli kinds of steel are "best" for knives is often
quite heated. The true answer is: there is no bcst steel. Depending on the
planned use for the knife, your own skills, and the price, you'II have to
decide on a compromise. Besides, in the discussion about choosing steel,
questions about ihe appropriate heat treatment and the bcst edge shape
for the planned purpose are quite often ncglected. Botli parameters have
at Icast the same cffect on the cutling ability and the general ctfcctiveness
as the choice of material.
Only by means of the proper heat treatment, optimized with respect

to material and use, can the steel achieve the desired quality (hardness,
flexibility, resistance against rusting, smoothness of the edge). Heat
treatment that isn't opümi/ed means gambling away the potential of the
steel. 'Ihus it is recommended to use a type of steel for which the process
of heat treatment iswell-known and under control—regardlessof vvhetíier
you barden the steel yourself or send it away for hardening.
'[ he blade shapc has a decisive inlluence 011 cutting ability and the stability
ot a blade. The edge angle determines how much forcé you need for cutting.
1 he smaller the angle, the sharper the edge and thus the less pressure you
have to apply while cutting. On the other hand, the edge has to be tuned
to steel and application. A blade with a hollow grind and very thin edge
would get stuck in the material it was cutting and the edge would soon
be ruined. A blade with spherical grind, betler suited lor ibis purpose,
is less suited tor pressing euts. A flal grind is more robust and easier to
manufacture, a perfectly made hollow grind requircs more experience
(and more machines) with grinding. But by means of the special geometry
of the hollow grind, you can achieve a fine edge even with relatively thick
blades. Apart from this, the hollow grind looks really noble.
Trie heat treatment of all blades created within the framework of this
book was contracted to a company experienced in heat treating the stcels
uscd. This also saves a lot oí time for the knifemaker. Since the blades are
hardened wilhin a vacuum furnace, almost no cinder (layer of oxides)
is created in the process, which would have to be ground otfafterwards.
Also, it is possible to grind and polish the blade almost to completion prior
to hardening. So it is sufficient to leave just two tenths of a millimeter of
material at the edge prior to heat treatment.
Preparation 13
In deciding upon blade material tor

ourslipjointsandfrietiontolders,
besides the theory of steels,
practical questions are
also of importance—the
steel should be cheap and
easy to work on with simple
means. Since "stainless" is
always a matter of taste, we
decided upon the stainless
steel N690 made by Boehler,
an Austrian m a mi tac tu re r. ' I h i s
steel provides a good compromise
between price and capabilities, it is easy to work with and polish, and the
heat treatment company is up to the task of hardentng it.
N690 can also be annealed to the hardness of a spring without any

problems, which is advantageous because the same material can be used
for the blade and the backspring. 'Ihis means you don't have to grind
another piece of steel to the same thickness as the blade.
Damascus steel was used for the blade and lincrs of the upscale versión
oí our slipjoint íblder.
1.2.2 Materials for Handles and Other Parts
For the other parts, we also chose malcriáis that were easy to acquire,
easy to work with, and not too expensive. 1-or the Hners we used brass
and nickel silver, and for the bolsters we used bronze. The rivets can be
madc of stainless steel or bronze. For the screwcd pivot, we used a toggle
boíl purchased at a home improvement store.
For the handles we used whatever was lying around in the workshop at
that time: kudu horn, /.iricote wood, and bog oak (admittedly, in Stefan
Steigerwald's workshop lots of things are laying around). All kinds of
woods can be used, as long as they are hard and dry enough not to warp.
You have to be especially caretul with rcspect to this. Since we want to
14 Preparation
rivet our knives and not screw them together, warped or oven ruplured
handle scales can't be replaced easily. 'Ib be on the safe side, use artificial
mataríais sucli as C¡-10, micarta, carbón nber, or stabili/ed wood.
Please be aware that many materials used íor making knives pose a health
risk while working with them. 'Ihe dust of many tropical woods is toxic
and can cause allergic reactions, as can the dust and fibers of compounds.
Stabilized woods sometimes contain epoxy resins, mother-of-pearl
contains arsenic, and carbón fibers accumulate in your lungs. Be sure to
use suitable brealhing masks and exhaust fans when working.
Hnally, when choosing the appropriate materials for your knife, vendors
specializing in knitemaking supplies are usually very helptul.
l.3Tools
1.3.1 The File:The Most ImportantTool
l-'iles ditter in si/e, body shape, cut, and Ihe shape of their teeth. Rasps, in
contrast to files, have separately cut teeth. If these teeth are cut (negalive
rake angle) they act as scrapcrs. Milled teeth (positive rake angle) cut.
Prpparation 15
Besictes the profilc of the teeth, files differ ¡n the number and order of
the teeth on the file body.
'ihe term "file cut" describes the complete number of teeth on the file
which were created on the tile body by stroking, cutting, or milling. In
general, the harder ibe malerial you're working with, the smoother the
file cut should be.
For softer material, including soft metal, files with cut 1 should be used.
The sufficiently wide distance between the teeth assures that no material
get.s stuck and clumps up on the file. For hard materials, files with cut 2
are used. On those, the so-called down-cut has an angle ot about 50°, the
up-cut crosses at an angle of about 70°. 'I he up-cut créales the actual edge,
the crossing down-cut (most times cut deeper into the file body than the
up-cut) ought to break off the shavings. Hecause of the anglc, the teeth
are set altcrnately. So score marks on the material are avoided.
GRADES OF FILE CUTS
Depending on their length, files of the same cut have different cut
numbers. Swiss-pattern files are available in se ven cuts and get
progrcssively finer as the cut number goes up. American-pattern files
are available in three cuts. The number of cuts per centimeter for Swiss-
pattern files and the corresponding American-pattern equivalents is
as follows:
Swiss-pattt-rn American-pattern Cuts per

Cut No. Equivalen! centimeter
00 ?
0 4.5-10
1 Bastard 5.3-16
2 SecondCut 10-25
3 SmoothCut 14-35
4 25 - 50
6 40-71
16 Preparation
A A A A A
A A A A
AA A A A
A A A A, file body
AA A A A
A A A A
AA A A A cut
AAAA A
A A A A
AA A A A
A A AA
AAA A A
A A A A
AA A A A
tang
1 he cut number designates the number of cuts per centimeter. The grade
of cut is a means to distinguish between the various files. Common
Swiss-pattern tiles hear the grades 00 or O (toarse files íbr wood and son
materials), cut number 1 (médium cut files), and cut numbers 2, 3, 4,
and 6 (smooth cut files).
Files are available in a wide variety of shapes: rectangular, triangular,

round, diamond-shaped, or semicircular. Por fíat surtaces, usually Hat or
semicircular files are used. With a mili saw file, which has a singlc-cut at
the rounded edge, we work towards the shoulder (the short, blunt part
oí the blade past the edge). We do this to achieve a rounded transition
while working 011 a ílat surface.
Preparation 17
There are other ways: the transition at the shoulder can be filed with a
round file as well. For the rest of the surface then a file shonld he used
that has no cut at the sides so no rough edge will be crcated around the
shoulder.
Anything but a simple tool—a wide range of files is available.
Files should be cleaned on a regular base with a file card. When shavings
are stuck between the teeth, the file is blunt.
1.3.2 Sandpaper/Abrasive Cloth
As with tools ín general, it pays not to be stingy with respect to the quality
of sandpaper or abrasive cloth. A tip: sandpaper should be kept separated
according to grit in folders. This way you won't have any loóse, coarse
grains on your finer sandpaper.
For sanding a plano surface we need a hard substrate (wood, metal).

Ibis is especially important for working at transition points, including
the shoulder. 'Ihis will gct you clear, well-defined corners. F'or sanding
rounded arcas, around the handle, for example, we use abrasive cloth or
abrasive fleece.
20 Preparation
'I he advantage oí using bronze is that there is higher stability, compared

to teflon. Theretore the blade can be adjustcd to a higher degree, the
movements also stay the same over a long period of time, and they are
also more exact. In addition, bronze washers are also self-lubricating.
Sheet metal tor bronze washers is available as raw material in various
thkknesses (e.g. as bearing bronzc, tin bronze, etc).
Tlie thickness of the washers depends on how tight the fit of the blade
should be. Usually the thickness is 0.1 mm (0.003") or 0.2 mm (0.007").
For a bit more space between parís, a thickness of 0.3 mm (0.011") or up
to a máximum of 0.5 mm (0.019") can be used.
Washers can also be omittcd altogether. In this case, the blade moves
along the liners directly. This requires outstanding surface quality. And
besides that, the surface of the liners should be at Icast 5 to 10 Rockwell
grades (HRC) belowthat of the blade. Liners oí platinum, steel, or non-
ferrous metáis are appropriate for the job. The disadvantage of making
Bronze washers are punched from a Several raw washers are roughly cut
strip wíth a special tool. out,then chucked on the lache and
turned.
Preparation 21
a knife without a washer, hesides the complicated surface treatment, are

that this lype of construction is also sensitivo to very small dusl particles
and the unevenncss of the material.
1.3.5 Vise
A vise lasts for an entire lifetime—usually. Take care that the guidance
elemcnts are more or less without play and the jaws—when closed—are
level. During our work we use them as a hack stop to achicve a clcan
edge when filing. The vise shouldn't he too lightweight either. Trie
hcavier the vise, the better it dampens the vibrations created while filing
or polishing.
1.3.6 Drill Press
In ordcr to drill some holes, a simple drill press from a home improvement
store is sufricient. You havc to takc care that the table is perpendicular to
the drill spindle. Theadjustableelements of a press, a swivel table or swivel
head, are mostly unnecessary and do not enhancc precisión.
With respect to machines and power tools for the workshop, it is a great
idea to search for used, high-quality brand-name models. 'Ihese are much
hetter to work with than cheap tools of unknown origin.
Slipjoint Folding Knife
With slipjoiiit lolders, the open and closed hlade is hcld in place by a spring
undcr pressure. So slipjoirits don't have a locking mechanism like backlock
folders, which are otherwise similar in construclion and which have a
hammer-like spring kecping the blade in open position. In addition to
holding the blade, the backspring is also the end stop for the open blade.
The re are several ways to construct the end stop tor the blade in
closed posilion. A lot of traditional knivcs don't have any end stop at
all—when closed, the blade hits the backspring. More gentle to the
blade is a well-defined end stop that keeps ihe edge away from the
backspring. 'Ib achieve this, you can shape the blade and backspring
in a way that, when closed, the blade foot hits the corresponding part
of the backspring befo re the edge touches the back of the handle.
Another obvions possibility is to use a stop pin, i.e. a sepárate pin, lor
stopping the blade. We chose this variation bccause this construction
method is, in the end, easier to execute. In addition to this, small errors in
construction and assembly ot the f older are easier to correet. 'I he important
issues related to this are depicted in the images on pages 51 through 53.
2.1 Designing and Drawing aTemplate
On graph paper we draw three guide lines: the two vertical lines
determine the handle length. In addilion, we draw the topmost part
of the back, and thus determine the height of the handle and the back
oí ihe blade. When this is done, we sketch the outline of the handle.
Towards the hlade, the handle receives a small guard. It prevenís one's
lingers from slippingonto the edge whileworkingwith ihe knife. At the
same time, we gain more space tor ihe lang. Ihe tang will be covered
by the guard later on, so no parís will stick out when the folding knife
is closed.
SHpjoint Folding Knife 23
Decermine the handle lengch by drawing cwo lines.A third line decermines che
back of our knife. Draw che concours of che handle within these boundaries.
Draw Che guard ac che front of the handle.
ln order to determine the position of the blade pivot, we draw a line

parallel to the front end of the handle about 8 mm (0.315") farther
back. The closer to the front the pivot is drawn, the longer the blacie
will be in relation to the handle. But we stül need enough space for
the tang (locking mechanism, washers).
To have enough room for spacers and an edge inside the handle when
the folder is closed, the center point of the pivot should be a bit below
the center of that line. If the pivot is positioned e ven lower, the blade
won't be covered far enough when the knife is closed.
Starting from the center of the pivot, we use a compass to determine

the máximum length of the blade. With a curve témplate or freehand,
the desired blade contour is drawn within the boundaries marked
with the compass.
After drawing the edge we gain a first impression of our knife. We

will see whether the draft will work in three dimensions during the
next step, making a témplate.
Determine the distance

between the center of the
pivot and the front of the
handle.
Determine the pivot

height. Place it just a bit
below the center in order
to have enough room
for the spring inside the
handle later on.
Draw the blade's máximum possible length.This is the same length as the distance
between the center of the pivot and the end of the handle.
Slipjoint Folding Knife 25
Draw the
shape ofthe
blade. A curve
témplate
makes it easier
10 fitid (he
right contours.
The rough sketch of our knife is finished.
Cut out the blade and handle and créate u cardboard témplate of both.
Paste the blade with enough material left over for designing the tang
later on. A thumbtack is used as a preliminary blade pivot.
The témplate allows us to check whether the outlines of the blade

and handle fit together. The blade should vanish inside the handle
as much as possible. The blade tip has to be covered completely by
the handle. Open, as well as closed, no sharp corners should stick
out anywhere.
28 SMpjoint Folding Knife
we transfer the outline of the blade onto the inside of the handle
témplate. This way we can start to see the shape the backspring will
have later on.
We perform another functional test—is anything poking out,

does the blade fit inside the handle, is there enough space tor the
backspring? It's easier to cut cardboard now than steel later.
Next in une is the construction oí the tang. The spring moves along
the tangeach time the tblder isopenedor closed.'Ihepart on which
it is gliding thus has to be roundcd. With our compass we draw a
circle around the center of the pivot. Since the bladt1 should ulways
move smoothly, the área with which the tang touches liners and
washers should be large enough. 'Ihus the radius should be as big
as possible within the boundaries of thc handle outlines.
Now draw the pocket where the spring will rest. Cióse to the
roundcd edge of the handle, we mark the spot where the spring
ends. At exactly this spot on the blade, we draw the front edge of
the pocket.
The backspring should move freely around the blade tang. For this we first draw
a circle around the blade pivot.
Süpjoint Folding Knife 29
We mark the posítíon where the The line depicts the front edge of the
spring reaches. pocket for the spring.
Now determine the height of the pocket.
'Ihereafter the height of the pocket is determincd. '1 he distance between

the center of the pivot and the rear wall oí the pocket is (besides the
strength of the spring) the decisive factor with respect to the forcé
keeping the blade in (ípen position. The farther back this spot is
positioncd (thus a deeper pocket), the better the leverage of the spring.
To have enough área for a sufficient bearing (big washers) the working
point of the spring (depth of the pocket) should not be too far down.
The next stcp is to draw the spring. For support we mark the position
of the blade edge of the closed folder. The spring is located between
this line and the back of the handle. We draw it up to the rear edge
of the tang.
30 SMpjoint Folding Knife
The points where we attach the backspring are marked—the knifc

will be riveted at thcse spots later on. Trie head oí the spring and
the ñrst of thc rivets have to be separateci by a surficient distance so
there is enough clearance for work. The distance should also not be
too small, otherwise the torque will be too high.
Cut out
the pocket
and mount
the blade
and handle
témplate.
Now draw
the spring.
• • F •
44 4 4 4
4444
44444
4444 file
44444
The spring 4444
-C
lies withín the
sketched área
01
t- 44444 ct
_OJ A A A <
•• • V
that is at our
disposal inside the 3
U
44444
closed knife. 4444
44444
4444
44444
4444
A A A A *
The hammer-shaped end of the spring

reaches up to the rear end of the tang.
Mark the positions for

mounting the spring.
Important:
the re must
be sufficient
space between
the spring and
the blade of
the knife.
1he closed blade should hit a stop pin. For this we mark the end
stop. 'Iheposition should he as tar to the tront as possible to achieve
máximum blade length.
Wlien the knife is open, the tang should stop at the front end ot the
backspring. Prior to transferring the outlines onto the material used for
the knife, wc should check its function once again with the témplale.
For our knife we also created a functional témplate made oí brass.

Ihis brass témplate is an even be I te r sample tor checking the knile's
actions and dimensions. We used alignment pins for the stop pin,
pivot, and rivets. It you want to build several models of the same
design, brass or aluminum témplales are also helpíul.
Later the témplate for the handle is copicd onto the material used
for thc liners—in our case, a sheet of nickel silver with a thickness
of 1.0 mm (0.039").
Draw the recess ¡n che

bladc.which will rest
against the stop pin.The
pin is posicioned as far
forward on the knife
as possible.Thus the
corresponding recess will
not be positioned in the
blade.
Now mark the position

of the stop pin inside
the handle. Once again.
check the function of the
témplate.
Now
transfer the
outline of the
handle onto
the liners (1.0
mm [0.039"]
nickel silver
sheet metal).
2.2 Working on the Handle
Using a waterproof íelt pen, we transfer the handlc con ton rs onto
the material. With a center punch we mark the positions oí'the bladc
pivot and rivets for the spring and stop pin.
We use a hacksaw to cut out the coarse shape. 'Ihen we use sandpaper
for a brief polish to make sure the suríaces are clean and all burrs
are removed.
With a center punch, transfer the positions of the pívot, stop pin, and rivets from
the cardboard témplate.
Roughly cut out the liners.
With sand paper (grit P240), remove burrs from the blanks.
With superglue, we thcn fix both blanks—the marked liner on

top. We always drill through both liners at the same time to makc
completely vertical drill boles.
Glue the liners together with superglue.
Now drill with a 2.8 mm (0.1 I O") bit. With a reamer, widen the hole to 3.0 mm
(0.1 18").
Now we drill the marked holes. To work accurately, drill the holes
with 0.1 mm (0.003") to 0.2 mm (0.007") less in diameter and then
use a reamer to widen the holes to their final size. For our knite we
need 3.0 mm (0.1 18") íor the pivot and 2.0 mm (0.078") for the
spacersand stop pin. While reaming, make sure the rotational speed
¡s slow and the bit is well lubricated.
If necessary, the outlines are once again drawn using the témplate. The
drill holes are used as a marker when the témplate is positioned.
Willi a file, we shape the contour. í-'or this wc clamp the liners, which
are still glued together, into the vise. With aptly shaped blocks,
we sand up lo a grit of P240. To be absolutely su re the pieces stay
together properly, you can use alignment pins in addition to the
superglue.
Once che holcs are drilled and reamed, draw the outline again.
With a file, shape che contours of the liners (still glued).

Slipjoint Folding Km'fe 37
Afcer chat we refine with sand paper For the bottom we use a rounded
(P240) and a suitable sanding block. sanding block to achieve a clean radius
at the guard.
Sepárate the liners and

polish the surfaces clean
Here are liners smoothly polished up to P600.
Sepárate both liners from each other—usually they will come apart
by knocking them lightly on a hard surface. Clean the liner surfaces
vvith sandpaper to remove any glue residue.
Now polish both liners on all sides up togrit P600. For the área around
the guard, we use a rounded sanding block.
2.3 Creating the Blade

First oí all, we check to make sure the blade steel is level. If necessary,
the blade surfaces are ground ílat, e.g. by gluing sandpaper onto a level
base and moving the blank across. Exact evenness is important for
drilling the blade pivot at the precise angle. Then the outlines of the
blade are transferred onto the steel. For this we use a scribcr.
At the spot marking the blade pivot we center punch, drill, then ream
the drill hole up to the size of the blade pivot, in our case 3.0 mm
(0.118").
Transfer the outline of the blade from the témplate to the steel.
Center punch the posición of the blade pivot so the drill bit doesn't wander.
At the center-punched position, drill with a diameter of 2.8 mm (0.1 10").
Then ream up to 3.0 mm (0.1 18"), making sure the bit is sufficiently lubricated.
Defining the blade shape is next. We drill a series of lióles along the
niarkcd lines. With a coping saw or scroll saw, we then cut through the
holes. Then we refine the shape with a coarse file. We continué with
a smoother file. Leave some excess material at the base of the tang so
we can work on the contact área with the spring later.
Drill just outside the scribed

lines along the contour of the
blade.
Cut through the holes with a coping saw or a scroll saw.
Clamp the blank in a

vise. With a coarse file
{cut I or cut 2) smooth
out the surface.
Slipjoint Foldrng Knife 41
During this step, we also check to makc sure the blade fits inside
the irame. If the blade tip sticks out a bit—as depicted in the
piloto—or there is not enough space for the spring, we correct this
as necessary.
Check to make sure the blade

fits into the frame. Correct any
protrudíng parts. Leave some
material at the tang, for adjusting the
backspring later on.
The tang sttcks out just a bit—rnark the The blade tip also sticks out a bit.
área to be filed off later. You can adjust this later.
In order to file the pocket for the backspring, clamp the blade in the
vise. First file the bottom of the pocket. The vice jaws act as a back
stop and ensures that we achieve a level área on which the spring will
later rest.
We start with the file and then continué with abrasivo cloth up to
P240. In order to work on the front edge of the pocket, we reposition
the blade then file and sand as before. The length of our pocket is
transferred froni the témplate to the blade.
Once the blade is adjusted, clamp it in File up to the level of the vice. In doing
the vise. Use the hardened jaws of the so, be sure not to file off or round the
vise as a back stop for the depth of the front end of the pocket.
spring pocket.
Finish the filed corners with sand paper (P240).

To mark protruding áreas, we place the blade onto one of the liners.
An alignment pin serves as an auxiliary blade pivot. In our example,
the shape ot the blades back doesn't fit with the handle. The blade is
also protruding a bit around the guard. We mark these áreas with a
felt pen.
On the backside we transfer the shape of the spring frorn pocket to

handle and check the position of the stop pin. We mark the área where
the blade will hit.
Here the blade concour has been filed With help from the témplate, mark the
and the pocket shaped. rear edge of the pocket.
Connect the liner and blade with an alignment pin and mark the protruding áreas
of the blade.
Wich che blade fixcd ín open posición, transfer the shape of the pocket onto the liner.
The hammer of the backspring reaches almost as far as the stop pin, but che hammer
should not be cióse enough to rest on the stop pin when the blade is open.
With a hacksaw we first cut off the rear, protruding parí ot the tang.
Afterwards, the bladc will be assembled again and moved into the
position it ought to have inside the closed knife. We niark the área where
the spring will later rest on the tang. At the moment these marks are
not ¡dcntical to the final sizc—wc Icavc a bit of material whilc working
on this. 'Ihe final adjustments of the tang and the spring will be done
later on.
Roughly cut the blade tang to the Transfer the spring position onto the
correct size. closed blade.
Draw che positions of the stop p¡n and the front end of the liners.
With file and abrasive cloth we take the blade—clamped in the

vise once again—down to the marked size. Then we prepare lor
grinding the blade. With the blade open, we mark the front outlines
of the handle. A bit farther to the front we already marked the end
stop of the blade, which should not extend to the edge—for this
we mark the position through the drill hole in the liner with the
blade closed.
With the waterproof pen and the blade clamped in the vise, we mark
shoulder on both sides. This is the perimeter of the grinding. We don't
scribe it—if we use the pen, we are always in control of our work, and
later we won't have to remove deep grooves made by the scriber.
To determine the edge, we adjust a marking too!, a caliper gauge with

scriber, or calipcr to half the thickness of the edge from both sides. This
way you can immediately see whether you hit the center or not. Later
on we work exactly in symmetry on both sides of the blade. Tn order to
see the line of the marking tool more clearly, it is helpful to grind the
edge perpendicular to that line beforehand. As an alternative, layout
dye can be used.
Parallel to the front end of the handle, mark the shoulder on both sides.
Scríbe the edge of the blade with a caliper.
Now that the edge has been scribed, you can start grinding the blade.
For grinding the blade we use files and abrasive cloth. At the edgc we
leave between 0.2 mm (0.007") and 0.5 mm (0.019"). Final sharpening
of thc blade edge is only done after hardening.
To make things easier, we mount the blade to a lug that wc can clamp
in the vise. With the file, we then form the contours by grinding,
While doing so, it is important to guide the file—and later the abrasive
cloth—on top of the blade with the entire surface and not to tilt. Thus
we get a consistent and even surface. We file cautiously and without
applying too much pressure, otherwise the lug will come undone
from the vice. Filing is done crosswise to achieve a clean, uniform
surface.
For grinding
we use a lug.
The blade is
screwed in
and the píece
of metal on
top prevents
lateral
movement.
We start with a coarse file, leaving a small área next to the shoulder
unfiled. During the next step we use a finer mili saw file with rounded
sides and work on the entire bladc. With the mili saw file we achieve
a deán curve at the shoulder.
With a coarse file, shape the blade Be careful to work on the whole área
from the edge. while retaining the transition towards
the shoulder.
With a rounded mili saw file, work towards the shouíder.

With a rounded sanding block we work over the whole área again.
While doing so, we take care to achieve a clean transition at the
shoulder. We use abrasive cloth with grits P120, P240, and then
P400. With each change of grits we change the direction of sanding
as well—grit after grit is ground at an angle of 90° to the previous one.
Here we should not change to a ñner grit unless the whole surfacc
is uniform and without scores or grooves. Besides that, we lake care
to achieve clear corners and not round the área at the shoulder or
towards the back of the blade.
For work at the shoulder, use a proper sanding block.

SPRING POCKET AND STOP PIN
With many traditional slipjoint folders, the blade can be

pressed beyond the closed posítion towards and ¡nto the
spring.This is bad for the blade and the backspring.A proper
end stop keeps the blade away from the handle back. Either
the end stop ¡s constructed by means of an aptly shaped tang
and backspring, or an additional stop pin is used.
about 2mm
With respect to the position of the stop pin, you have to find a
compromise. In our case the pin is located 2 mm (0.078") behind the
blade edge.
We decide to use such a stop pin because it is easier to

construct and manufacture. The stop pin ¡s placed in such a
way that it is located behind the edge for the closed blade
and is hit by the tang.
The farther away from the main pivot the pin is located, the
farther the end stop reaches into the área of the edge. The
closer the pin is moved towards the pivot, the less space is
left for the backspring—contact área and tang have to be
shorter.The leverage of the spring holding the blade in place
is also less
The length x marks the distance between

the center of the plvot and the stop pin.
In this design, the pin is cióse to the front;
the length of x ¡s quite small.Thus the
distance between the center of the pivot
and rear end of the pocket (y)
¡S si nal I, too.
Because of the unfavorable
amount of leverage, the
spring is not able to hold the
blade strongly enough.
Pin far to the front:The

dimensión of x is rather
small.Thus the distance
y is also small and the
leverage of the spring
¡s bad.
Here the pin is farther back and the

blade pocket ís correspondingly longer.
The spring is able to transfer more forcé
onto the tang and thus also holds
i the blade more strongly.
\n the blade is closed, the

spring presses against the
rear end of the tang—the
área inside the red circle in
the drawing.At this spot, the
resilience acts on retractir
and holding the blade.
The pin is farther to the back, so it

lies just within the área of the tang
when the blade is closed.Thus when
the spring pocket is longer, the distance
y is longer, too. Because of the changed
leverage, the blade is held in a better way,
The larger the área of the tang around the pivot, the more space
is left for big washers—the larger the surface área of the washer, the more
stable the knife's action.The deeper the pocket for the spring, the smaller
this área becomes.
On the other hand, with a deep pocket the córner on which the spring acts
also moves backwards (the length of y).The leverage of the spring is better
and the blade is held with more forcé.
The drafts are blown up a bit to better show how these parts interact.The
ideal depth of the pocket is between the depicted extremes.
The deeper the pocket, the smaller the tang, i.e. the área which leads the
blade inside the knife.The smaller this área, the more difficult it becomes to
build an accurately moving and durable blade bearing. On the other hand,
by increasing the depth of the pocket, the length of y also mercases and the
blade is held more strongly by the spring.
The construction of the stop pin and the pocket develops based on the end
position, depth of the pocket, and height of the blade. Henee it ¡s advisable
to build a mockup out of cardboard, or better yet, brass, to test the function
prior to building the actual knife.
2.4 Construction of the Backspring
Put a liner onto the raw material and roughly sketch the outlines. For
spring steel we use 1.4112. As an alternative, any steel can be used that
can be annealed to spring hardness. The spring—which is also used
as a backspacer—should be as ihick as the blade. Cutting the blade
and spring from the same piece of raw material only requires you to
grind the material down to the right thickness once.
With our knife we used washers for the blade, so the frame stands
apart a bit at the front end. This in turn créales room for the spring
to work freely. For a construction without washers, after hardening,
the spring should be ground a bit, so it doesn't touch the lincrs and
rub along them.
First, we work out the área which rests on the blade pocket. The
contour ot the blade pocket is transferred onto the spring blank. Using
the liners that we have already drillcd, we mark the position of the stop
pin as a check. The spring must not go farther than this position.
Scribe the upper outline of the backspring along the liners.

SMpjoint Folding Knife 55
With a hacksaw we roughly shape the proñle of the harnmer at the

end of the spring. With ñles and abrasive cloth we start the precisión
work. In order to work at a right angle, we clamp the spring into the
vise and use the jaws as a back stop for the corners. Polish the sur faces
with abrasive cloth up to grit P400. Between each step, regularly check
the fit of the spring insicle the pocket.
Draw the shape

of che hammer
on che material.
Also mark che stop pin.The end of the backspring should not reach beyond che pin.
56 Slípjoint Folding Knife
With the hacksaw. coarsely shape the contour of the hammer.
Use a file to
reflne the
shape—the
vise jaws
work as a
back stop.
Polish the área with a sanding block and sand paper (P400),
Check the fit of the spring and the length of the hammer.
File the front edge of the hammer

at a right angle to the correct length
and finish.
Rernove burrs from the corners of the
hammer.
After finishing the shape of the hammer, linc up the spring and blade
and tíx the spring, blade, and liners with clamps. Now, using the
previously drilled liner, we mark the position ot'the drill holes through
which our blade will later be riveted. As we did with the liners, first
drill, then ream the holes up to the desired si/e.
Fix the blade ¡n

open position.
Fit the backspring in the blade and

clamp the backspring blank, the
liner, and the blade together.
Using the holes ¡n the liner. drill the While reaming the drill holes, be sure
holes through the spring. to lubricare the bit.
SHpjoint Folding Knife 59
We fasten the spring to the liner (with alignment pins, if required)

and again scribe the outline. We do the coarse work with a hacksaw.
Similar to the work on the blade, we trien refinc the shape with files
and abrasive cloth (up to P240).
While clamped, turn

che whole knife over
and scribe the outlines
of the Itner onto the
spring blank.
With a hacksaw, roughly saw along the scríbed line.

Shape the outer contour of the spríng with file and sandpaper.
To work flush with the liners, the spring, blade, and Hners are
assembled again with the alignment pins and clamped in the vise. In
order to outline the inner contours, we first scribe the front, springy
part of the backspring. The shape of the rear part is determined by
the position of the blade inside the closed knife. We now draw the
outline, while leaving enough room for the blade.
Mount the
blade, spring
blank, and
liners with
alignment
pins.
In the vise, finish the outer concour of the spring.
With a caliper. scribc the inner The rear part of the spring mirrors the
contour of the spring parallel to the shape of the blade.
top edge.
Just in íront oí the front drill hole, the thicker, rear área narrows down
to become the thin, springy front part. Wc draw this transition as a
soft curve. In the front, between the hammer and the stationary part
oí thespring, the thickness of the spring measures a constant 2.0 mm
(O.Ü78"). Again, we drill along the linc andcut through the holes with
a coping saw or scroll saw. After that, we continué as usual: filing and
grinding up to P400.
Draw the
transition to
the springy
part.
Drill along the marked

outline.
Wich a coping saw or scroll saw, cuc through the excess material between the
drill holes.
Refine the outline with files and sandpaper.
It is importan! to form a clean transition between the springy part and

the stationary part of the backspring. 'Ihus you avoid notch brittleness
and fatigue Iractures. To do so, we use proper semicircular files and
rounded sanding blocks.
Don't test the performance of the backspring at this point! Unhardened,

the spring would be permanently bent.
64 Slípjoint Folding Knife
2.5 Finishing the Tang
Mount theblade to theliner with an alignment pin. In closed position,

through the drill hole in the liner, we mark the position where our
stop pin rests. Clamp the bladc into the vise and shape the área with
a file, round file, and sandpaper. While doing so, repeatedly check
the required depth.
When the bladc stop fits, reniove material from the corncrs of the
tang until the tang is able to move past the stop pin. As an aid, the
área can be drawn on the blade through the drill hole of the stop pin
by means of a pen.
Mark che position of che scop pin through the hole in che liner.
Shape the recess for the stop pin with Regularly check the depth of che recess.
a round file.
The tang hits

the stop pin.
The excess
material in
this área
has to be
removed.
Through the stop pin hole in the liner, mark the excess on the tang.
VVith tílc and sandpapcr, the corners are accordingly removed and ihe
tang is ground circular. During opening and closing, the backsphng
glides on this surtace. 'Ihe curve should thus be uniform and polished
cleanly.
With file and sandpaper, shape the radius.
During the next work step we shape the área of the tang f which is hit
by the spring in closed position. Spring and handle back ought to be
flush in this position as well. For this we remove material írom the
tang. Blade and spring are placed on the liner; the blade is closed up
to the end stop. We litt the spring slightly and let it rest on the blade.
The excess is marked on the tang.
Quality Control:
The hammer
protrudes above
the liners with the
blade in closed
position.We have
to refine the tang
so the hammer sits
flush.
This part of the tang has to be ground off.

Using a slight bevel, file the área bctween the recess for the stop pin
and the rear part of the tang, onto which the spring presses in closed
position. The spring oughl to act on the rear edge and thus pulí the
blade into the handle. Towards the stop pin, there ought to be a bit
of space,
As in the previous steps, we file and grind this área up to P400. In

between, we repeatediy check the progress of our work, so the spring
won't be located too deep later on.
Gradually we work towards achieving the right shape; the spring has to
be flush with the liners in open and closed position. Finally, we again
polish all the surfaces. For a clean finish around the blade pivot, we
polish with P4ÜO on a plañe surface.
Regularly check the position of the spring.

The excess of the spring is clear—this amount has to be taken off the tang.
On a fíat surface, polish the lateral

surfaces of the tang.
The spring is now flush with the liner.
Here the surfaces have been finished to grit P400.

70 SHpjoint Folding Knife
2.6 Precisión Work on the Blade and Spring
Polish the lateral surfaces and the back of the blade with grit P600. For
the final polish of the blade we only work in one direction—from the
blade foot to the tip. While doing so, we take care to keep well-defined
edges at the shoulder and towards the back.
The spring is also polished all around up to P600. To achieve the

required initial tensión, we cautiously bend the spring downwards
about 2 mm (0.078").
Finish with P600 lengthwise on a hard and level surface.
Clamp the spring in a vise with smooth jaws and pre-bend it slightly.
Now the blade and spring can be hardened and heat-treated. The blade
is hardened to a case hardness of about 58 to 61 HRC, depending un
the steel type; the spring is hardened to around 45 HRC",.
For the spring to move smoothly along the blade, we also polish the
inside up to P800.
The blade and spring are back from being hardened/annealed.
Prior to further work, cautiously polish the spring again to P800.

2.7. Intermedíate Check and Washers
After hardcning, mount the spring inside the handle and check the
initial tensión. Ifnecessary, wecan cautiously bend ita hit further. For
the spring to move smoothly along the hlade, we polish the insidc up to
P800. Thereafter the spring is once again placed inside the handle.
With a hollow punch, we stamp two washers out of teflon with a

thickness of 0.1 mm (0.003"). The outer diameter measures 12 mm
(0.472") and fits the space on the blade tang; the inner diameter
matches the pivot, which is 3.0 mm (0.118").
With the help of alignment pins, we assemble blade, spring, and stop
pin. In case the blade does not move easily around the pivot after heat
treatment, we cautiously widcn the drill holc with a diamond cutter
(I)remel, Proxxon, etc.) or a round diamond needle file.
Assemble the spring with alignment pins for testing.The initial tensión valué is 2
mm (0.078"}.
¿W
Wich two hollow punches, punch the washers out of teflon foil.
Assemble the knife to test it.
If the blade pivot is too tight, cautiously widen the drill hole with a diamond file.
Prior to the next steps we check the performance of our knife. Is the
end stop alright in upen and closed position? Is the tensión of the
spring surhcient? Are all the parts flush? If necessary, we touch up
neccssary áreas.
The test lets you know if you've followed the process correctly so far.
76 Slipjoint Foldíng Knife
Now the blade is polished, once again, evenly along its Icngth with
P600, thcn P800.
'1 he part of the tang the spring hammer movcs along is also polished as
much as possihlc or even buffed. The smoother thc sur face, the softer
the blade movement will be when opening and closing the knite.
Rnish the tang on a fíat surface with P800. Give the surfaces of the blade a final
polish up to P800.
The blade looks great after the final polish.

Süpjoint Folding Knife 77
2.8 Handle Scales
First oí all, we inake sure that the handle material is large and fíat
cnongh to lay fíat and cover the entire suríace oí the liners. If necessary,
grind the handle material Hat with sandpaper.
Then glue the liners to thc handle material, in this case yew.
Glue the líner to the handle scale with an epoxy glue.
After the glue has set. grind the excess glue off.
previously drilled to make the boles for attaching the spring as well
as the blade pivot. Do not drill all the way through for the stop pin.
With a saw we coarsclv outlinc thc contours. With file and sandpaper
up to P240 we work step by step towards the final shape ot the handle
scales. File and polish the protilo lo a roundcd shape. Afterwards, the
corners at the inside of the liners are slightly rounded/trimmed.
Pivot and rivets are prepared. For this we use bronze rods of the proper
Drill the
holes for the
rivets through
the liners.
For the stop
pin. we drill
approximately
2 mm (0.078")
deep, which
gives us more
tolerance when
cutting the pin
to size.
With a table saw, roughly cut the contours of the handle scale.
Then fmish che shape with a file and sandpaper.

File and sand the three-dimensional contours of the handle.
Slightly round the inner contours of the liners.

diameter and cut them into adequate pieces. To determine the right
length, measure while holding the parts of the knife together and add
1.0 mm (0.039") to 1.5 mm (0.059") in ordcr to have enough material
íor rivcting. The ends of the rods are deburred prior to assembly.
Measure the necessary length for the rivets at the handle and add 1.5 mm (0.059").
Scribe the length of the rivet on an appropriate round material.
Cut the rivets to size with a saw and remove the burrs with a file.
Everything is ready for the final assembiy.

2.9 Assembly and Finish
We put the parts of our knife together and once again check the
performance prior to riveting.
Asscmble thc parts of the knife. A drop of oil about to fall, the blade
moves smoothly once and for all.
Prior to riveting, the knife is completely assembled.

While riveting with the hammer, you should not hit too hard, othcrwise
the wood around the rivet may crack. The rivet can he pressed in the
vise a bit first. Ihen the rivets are clenched with the hammer on an
appropriate surface. In between we check the movements of the blade
and the specifications of the handle.
With careful blows of the hammer, flatten the ends of the rivet like a mushroom.
Check the movement of the blade several times in between flattening the rivets.
After we have finished riveting the knife, we cautiously rework the

rivet hcads in order to match them with the handle contours. The final
finish is done by means of smooth sandpaper.
Remove the excess material from the rivet so it is flush with the handle.
Finish the surface with a file and sandpaper (up to P600).

To protect thc wood, we rub linseed oil or hard wax onto the handle
scalcs. Wc sharpcn thc bladc edge with a diamond file. Our slipjoint
folder is now completely finished!
Rub linseed oil into the wood using a piece of cloth.
Finally, sharpen the edge of the blade with a diamond stone.

Simple and beauciful: che finished slipjoinc folder.

2. lOVariations
2.10.1 Blade Tang
With this variation, the blade tang is not shaped as a radius. During
opening/closing, the spring hammer lies fíat on the rear of the tang.
This acts as a "resting stop" halfway along the way.
Remark: With this knife, you can clearly see what can go wrong. The
stop pin was placed a bit too cióse to the front. Ihus the corners of
the tang had to be rounded for the tang to pass by. By rounding the
corners, a few millimeters of the arca onto which the spring could
have acted were given away. In closed position (opposite below) it is
obvious that there would have been enough space to niove the stop
pin farther to the back.
Knife halfway opened: here the spring rescs on the tang noticeably.
Optimization: Notice the position of the stop pin, the stop

área, the end of the edge, and the position of the hammer.
Fríctíon Folding Knife
'I he "friction" in the terní "friction íblder" refers to the friction between
the blade and handle of this type of knife. Friction is the only forcé
holding the blade in the open and closed position.
At the front end of the handle, wc bend a ferrule around the wood.
Later, the blade pivot wül be guided and riveted with this ferrule. At
the same time, the ferrule acts as an end stop for the blade.
We forego an end stop in closed position because the blade of our

knife docsn't rest on metal but on the wood of the handle.
3.1 Desígning and Drawing aTemplate
As with the slipjoint project, first draw the design on graph papen
A guideline marks the center of our knife, a second onc depicts the
desired blade length. l : irst we draw the blade tang and plot the position
of the blade pivot—again, a bit bclow the center. Now we design the
blade shape up to the first guideline.
Three guidelines
mark the center,
the blade length,
and the heíght of
our knife.
Friction Folding Knife 93
'Ihen we place the point of a compass on the pivot and transfcr the
blade length backwards—the handle must he at least this long in order
to cover the blade completely in closed position. Draw the handle;
its width depends on the dimensions oí the blade. Towards the end
of the handle, slope the handle downwards a bit. This way there is
a bit more room for the tip of the blade and the knife will sit more
sccurely in our hand.
Within the
boundaries
of the
guidelines,
draw the
blade
shape.
With a compass, transfer the

blade length and thus determine
the back edge of the handle.
Draw the desired handle

shape—the handle gets
broader towards the end and
extends slightly beyond the
radius to securelv cover the
blade tip.
We transfer the drawing onto cardboard and cut out the contours;
leave some excess material aroimd the tang. A thumbtack serves as
the pivot so we can check that the blade and handle fit together. If
necessary, we can refine the contours.
Cut out the témplate transferred onto cardboard and assemble. Cut off any
protruding parts, e.g. excess material at the tang.
We cióse the blade far enough for the tip to he covercd by the handle.
Draw the outline of the blade inside the handle. The handle niust be
cut this far later on.
Determine the closed posición of che blade and transfer che oucline of che edge
onto the handle.
The straight line depicts how deeply we'll have to saw ¡nto the handle later on.
3.2 Creating the Blade
Transfer the shape of the blade onto the blade material. For the friction
folder we use N690 fíat steel with a thickness of 1.5 mm (0.059").
With a hacksaw we roughly saw the steel. Along the marked contours
of the blade we drill holes, then cut through the remaining material
withacopingsawor scroll savv. With file and sandpaper —just likethe
process for the slípjoint folder—we finish the contours. Leavc some
excess material at the tang; final adjustments will be done laler.
Transfer the
outline of the
blade onto the
steel.
With a hacksaw, roughly saw the contour of the blade.

Drill holes along the scribed outline and cut through the holes with a coping saw
or scroll saw.
As with the slipjoint folder, file the contour of the blade.

3.3 Working on the Handle
The fcrrule on the handle holds the rivet that will act as the blade
pivot. We use a piece of spring steel for this. Also suitable, and perhaps
casier to work with, would be a pin of brass or bron/,e. With a caliper,
we scribe the desircd width—layout dye enhances the visibility ot the
scribed lines.
Use the dimensions of the other parts ot the knife to determine the
femile's measurements. 'Ihe width of the ferrule should be enough
to cover the tang. The length of the metal stríp is the circumference
of the handle (diameter times 3.14 for a spherical protile) plus a few
extra millimcters—the corners ofien can't be bcnt complcrcly and look
ugly after hammering. This área is cut off later on.
Saw the fcrrule out and clamp it in a vice to rcmove burrs with a file.
Here we also use the clamping jaws as a back stop to make sure that
the corners remain parallel.
Scribe the width of the ferrule.

Coarsely saw the ferrule out, then finish in the vise.The clamping jaws act as a
back stop and helps créate a fíat surface.
Place the ferrule ¡n the vice and remove burrs with a file.
Parts of the témplate, the raw blade, and ferrule.

On the wood piece for the handle, mark the área where the ferrule
will later wrap around the handle. With a wood saw, roughiy cut out
the front part of the handle.
On the handle wood, mark the área where the

ferrule will wrap around the handle.
Saw out the área where the ferrule will be placed.

On the front part of the handle, outline the ferrules shape. Cul out
the shape roughly with the saw, then round out the cylinder vvith a
file and sandpaper until the ferrule fits tightly on the handle.
To créate the cylinder shape for the handle. use the ferrule as a témplate.
Work on the surface of the cylinder with file and sandpaper until the ferrule fits
tightly.
Now wc draw the complete handle shape on the wooden handle. Mark
the área where the blade rests in closed position—we have to saw this
far into the handle trom the bottom. After that, mark the center of the
handle on the bottom of the wood. As an indication for sawing, mark
the centerline and its depth on the rear end of the handle.
Transfer che handle shape onto che wood.
Measure the depch of the required cut on che témplate and transfer it to che handle.
Mark the centén of the handle. Clamp the wood in a vise along the drawn depth
of the cut. Fon orientation duning sawing, we also dnaw the centén line and depth
of the cut on the end of the wood.
Cut the handle along the marked Unes.
With a saw we cut the groove into the handle along the centerline and
to the marked depth. The groove has to be widened just far enough
for the blade to slip into the handle—if the blade has too much play,
there worít be enough friction for the handle to hold the blade in.
Use the blade to check whether the handle groove is wide enough. If necessary,
refine the slot with a broader saw blade. If the saw blades are too thin, you can
use spacers and saw along them.
Starting coarsely and then progressively using smoother files, wc shape

the prortle of the handle step hy step. With sandpaper, give the handle
its tinal shape (tbr round handles, abrasivc cloth is helpíul).
With files and sandpaper, créate the handles shape.

I 10 Friction Folding Knife
3.4 Grinding the Blade
With the blade clamped in the vise, we mark the shoulder on both
sides. Scribe the blade's edge from both sides.
For filing, clamp the blade tightly in the vise. Again, we file crosswise
up to about 0.1 mm (0.003") to the scribed edge. The procedure is
identical lo that of the slipjoint foldcr. Finish with sandpaper up to
P400. A hard sanding block is helplul in achieving a clean córner at
the shoulder.
With the blade adjusted and clamped Scribe the center of the blade from
in the vise, mark the shoulder on both both sides with a caliper.
sides.
Friction Folding Knife 11 I
Fix the blade on top of the vise with two clamps.
File the lateral surface of the blade.

I I 2 Friction Folding Knife
With the blade clamped on the vise, Towards the shoulder, use a mili saw
file the blade tip. Use light pressure file.This allows you to créate the
to prevent the blade from moving transition to a clean córner at the
sideways. shoulder.
Remove file marks with sandpaper and a sanding block. Start with grit P180. then
work from P240 to P400.
3.5 Connecting the Ferrule with Blade and

Handle
We mount the terrule onto the handle. Check the width and depth of
the groove again and fine tune if necessary.
Push the blade into the handle until it stops at the ferrule and adjust
it in open position. The pivot is placed a hit below the centén With
a calipor we take the measurement from our témplate and mark the
height of the pivot on hoth sides of the ferrule. Perpendicular to that
we scribe the center ot the drill hole on both sides.
Mount the ferrule on che handle.
Push the blade into the handle and check that ¡t fits ¡n the groove tightly.
Scribe the herght of the pivot on both sides. For this we use layout dye, caliper,
and an auxiliar/ base as a back stop for the caliper. Now we determine the
center of the drill hole for the blade pivot.
We center punch so the drill bit doesn't wander.
Since we ha ve to drill on a round surface, we center punch the terrule

at the pivot so the drill bit doesn't wander. Cautiously we drill at the
marked position through ferrule, handle, and hladc. For this, we prc-
drill on each side with the knife resting on an angle. Trien place the
knife blade fíat on the vise uncí drill all the way through the knile.
Friction Folding Knife I I5
Pre-drill through the sheet metal into Repeat on the opposite sidc of the knife.
the wood on one side with the knife
turned at a slight angle.
Now drill through the entire knife with the blade lying fíat on top of the vise.
After drilling we take our knife apart and remove burrs and other
irrcgularities with sandpaper. The blade tang should he round to
prevent eorners trom protruding trom the handle. With a curve
témplate, we draw the desired contour around the drill hole of the
pivot. Shape the tang with file and sandpaper.
Draw the curvatura of the tang wíth a curve témplate.
Using the vise, file the shape of the tang.
In order to check whether the tang fits into the handle, we temporarily
assemble the blade on the outside. The blade has to sit within the
handle deep enough during opening and closing the knife. If not, we
have to reñne.
Friction Folding Knife I I7
Mount che blade on the outside and Assemble the knife. using a drill bit as
theck that there is enough room for the blade pivot. to check the knife in
the tang inside the handle. closed position.
The knife can't be closed completely.Thus we deepen the groove in the handle a
bit more.
l-'or this prcliminary quality control test, an appropriately si/,ed drill bit
acts as the hlade pivol. With our knife, the blade tip isn t cuvered by the
handle vvhen in closed position. The groove is not deep enough—with
a saw, we rerine step by step until the blade is ablc to dip deep enough
into the handle.
The part of the handle that protrudes above the ferrule is also filed
and sanded so the handle is flush with the ferrule. With sandpaper
we clean the corners of the groove. At this point the handle wood can
he sealcd. For this we use Danish Oil, which we rub into the handle
with a piece of cloth. Be cautious with products made from linseed
oil: moist pieces of cloth can ignite spontaneously after a while!
File off the protruding part of the wood and sand.

Friction Folding Knife I 19
Round the inside corners of the groove Treat the handle with linseed oil.
slightly.
The parts of the friction folder prior to hardening the blade.

120 Friction Foldmg Knife
3.6 Assembly and Finish
Before we sharpen the edge, we take the knife to the heat treatment
company to be annealed. When informed about the steel type, the
person doing the heat treatment knows the required temperatures
for hardening and annealing. In our case, the hlades were hardened
in a vacuum and annealed to 59 HRC.
Once hardened, we satín polish the surface of the blade up to grit

P800. For this we also use the sanding block and only work in one
direction—from the foot of the blade to the tip.
For the pivot we use a 3.0 mni (0.118") rod of stainless steel, which vve
cut to the desired length; for riveting, about 1 mm (0.039") should be
left on each side. Prior to asscmbly, rcmove burrs from both sides.
After hardening, we scrop the blade lengchwise with P800.

Determine the required length of the pivot.
Transfer the length onto the rod and add 2 mm (0.078").

Cut the pivot to size and remove burrs from che ends.
Push the pivot through. We, once again, check that the knife is
functioning properly. If everything fits, the ferrule is riveted. Por this
we use a proper base (anvil, stcel block) and cautiously hammer from
both sides alternately. Tn between, regularly check the movemcnt of
the blade. Is the blade too tight? If you cautiously break the knife
in by moving the blade to and fro a bit, it should start to move a bit
more freely.
Insert the pivot and rivet it on a hard surface.

Use a hammer and the vise for riveting. Be sure not to hit the ferrule during this
process.
Friction Folding Knife I 25
As a final step we sharpen the edge of the blade with a diamond tile.
The handle is finished with hard wax. The friction folder is now ready
for work!
Finally, sharpen the edge with a Seal the handle with hard wax all
diamond file. around.
A timeless tool: the finished fricción folder.

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ONIXVN

2 Slipjoint Folding Knife

3 Friction Folding Knife

Constructinga folding k n i f e using only a few machines and tools was

After describing quite complicated knife projects in the last few

Although a slipjoint folding knife looks quite simple at first glance, as

As usual, we have documented every step of the process and rather

Among pocket knife enthusiasts, I belong to the "mechanics faction."

With respect to building a slipjoint, as well as a friction folder, there

Compared to linerlocks or backlocks, these knife types require fewer

Of course, slipjoints or Iriction folders can also be constructed by

Finally, a remark with rcspect to work safety: in order to takcgood photos

1.2 Cholee of Materials

1. Avnilability: Parts like the pivot of a friction folder, the clamp, or

2. Workability: Basically, every knilc can be buill by mcans ot a file, a

Only by means of the proper heat treatment, optimized with respect

In deciding upon blade material tor

N690 can also be annealed to the hardness of a spring without any

1.2.2 Materials for Handles and Other Parts

1.3.1 The File:The Most ImportantTool

GRADES OF FILE CUTS

Swiss-pattt-rn American-pattern Cuts per

Files are available in a wide variety of shapes: rectangular, triangular,

Anything but a simple tool—a wide range of files is available.

1.3.2 Sandpaper/Abrasive Cloth

For sanding a plano surface we need a hard substrate (wood, metal).

'I he advantage oí using bronze is that there is higher stability, compared

a knife without a washer, hesides the complicated surface treatment, are

1.3.6 Drill Press

2.1 Designing and Drawing aTemplate

Draw Che guard ac che front of the handle.

ln order to determine the position of the blade pivot, we draw a line

Starting from the center of the pivot, we use a compass to determine

After drawing the edge we gain a first impression of our knife. We

Determine the distance

Determine the pivot

The rough sketch of our knife is finished.

The témplate allows us to check whether the outlines of the blade

We perform another functional test—is anything poking out,

Now determine the height of the pocket.

'Ihereafter the height of the pocket is determincd. '1 he distance between

The points where we attach the backspring are marked—the knifc

The hammer-shaped end of the spring

Mark the positions for

For our knife we also created a functional témplate made oí brass.

Draw the recess ¡n che

Now mark the position

2.2 Working on the Handle

Roughly cut out the liners.

With superglue, we thcn fix both blanks—the marked liner on

Glue the liners together with superglue.

With a file, shape che contours of the liners (still glued).

Sepárate the liners and

Here are liners smoothly polished up to P600.

2.3 Creating the Blade

At the center-punched position, drill with a diameter of 2.8 mm (0.1 10").

Drill just outside the scribed

Cut through the holes with a coping saw or a scroll saw.

Clamp the blank in a