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Contents lists available at ScienceDirect 56
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Journal of Ethnic Foods 59
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journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net 61
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Original Article 64
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1 Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food 66
2 67
3 *, 1 2 3 4 68
4
Q17 Chrisfella Cokrro Handoyo , Clarissa , Grace Claudia , Milka ,
5 69
5 Q1,2 Syahnazia Adinda Firdayanti
Q3,4 70
6 Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of Life Science Surya University, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia 71
7 72
8 73
9 a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t 74
Q7
10 75
11 Article history: As one of the most ethnically diverse societies, Indonesia is well known for its cultural diversity such as 76
12 Received 16 October 2017 traditional practices and customs. Some of them are historically affected by colonization. Indonesia 77
13 Received in revised form experienced a colonial history under the Dutch rule for a long time. It is considered as a long colonial
5 December 2017
78
14 period that has left huge influences on various aspects of Indonesian people's lives and Indonesian 79
Accepted 6 December 2017
15 cuisine. As a result of colonization, many Dutch tribes set foot in many regions of Indonesia. At that time,
Available online xxx 80
16 the Dutch traders who came to Manado, North Celebes, introduced a recipe of a dish that has later been
81
17 combined with Indonesian ingredients, such as coconut and spices. This study aims to analyze
Keywords: 82
Culture the influence of the Dutch culture on Indonesian dish, klappertaart. Klappertaart in Indonesian literally
18 83
Dutch means “kue kelapa” or coconut cake that is usually served during special events. The cake is made from
19 84
Indonesia local ingredients such as coconut, flour, butter, eggs, milk, cinnamon, and raisins. That is what makes
20 Klappertaart klappertaart associated with Manado. The cake can be either baked or steamed. Nowadays, klappertaart is 85
21 Manado not only found in Manado but is also widely spread in major cities in Indonesia. 86
22 © 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the 87
23 CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 88
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Introduction Every region or tribe definitely has distinct dishes to whet people's
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appetite. (Figs. 1e4)
29 94
Q8 Indonesia is an archipelago country that consists of more than Indonesian diversity is not fully due to original indigenous Q9
30 95
1,300 ethnic tribes showing cultural diversity such as languages, cultures. Many of the cultures have been influenced by the Western
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food, and arts [1]. Its cultural diversity also includes local dishes world, especially Europe. Before independence, Indonesia was un-
32 97
spread in every region. Traditional dishes are a legacy of a tribe in a der the Dutch rule. In the early 20th century, many Dutch people
33 98
specific region [2]. It may be original Indonesian cuisine or the ones settled in some regions in Indonesia such as Java, Sumatra, and
34 99
that have been influenced by or adopted from other countries. other islands [3]. The impacts of colonization were always seen as
35 100
disastrous ones, but they rather left positive influence on various
36 101
aspects such as dances and traditional dishes.
37 102
*
Statement: All authors have contributed to the paper and have never submitted Indonesian traditional dishes that have been influenced by the
38 103
Q6 the manuscript, in whole or in part, to other journals. Dutch are croquet, nastar (pineapple tart), klappertaart (coconut
39 104
* Corresponding author. Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of cake), and kastengel (cheese stick). One example of the accultura-
40 Life Science Surya University, Gading Serpong Boulevard Street Kav. M5/21, Curug 105
tion of Dutch and Indonesian dishes is klappertaart. It is originated
41 Q5 Sangereng, Kelapa Dua, Tangerang, Banten, 15810, Indonesia. 106
E-mail addresses: [email protected] (C.C. Handoyo), chaclarissa17@ from North Celebes. Klappertaart is derived from words “klapper”
42 107
gmail.com (Clarissa), [email protected] (G. Claudia), [email protected] and “tart”, which are Indonesian and Dutch, respectively. “Klapper”
43 108
(Milka), [email protected] (S.A. Firdayanti). was originally taken from the word “kelapa” or coconut that was
44 1
Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, 109
spelled as klapper by the Dutch people at that time, whereas “taart”
45 Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ6282117713774. 110
2 is a Dutch word that refers to a cake. Klappertaart, which means
46 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, 111
Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ622121499466. coconut cake that is originated from Manado, becomes a favorite
47 3 112
Home address: Kelapa Molek 7 W2/20, Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta 14250, dessert because it tastes sweet and savory. In the colonialism
48 113
Indonesia. Phone number: þ6287881680295. period, the Dutch realized that Indonesians had a very large num-
49 4
Home address: Laguna Apartment, 22th floor, C-12, Penjaringan, Pluit, North 114
ber of coconut farms. The Dutch women experimented with young
50 Jakarta 14450, Indonesia. Phone number: þ62817700896. 115
5
Home address: Telaga Golf, Cluster Great Britain G7/2, Sawangan, Depok 16511, coconut meat in their tart recipe. Klappertaart is usually consumed
51 116
Indonesia. Phone number: þ6281519137819. by the upper middle class Dutch families in the East Indies. This
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https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
54 2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ 119
licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Fig. 1. (A) Rijsttafel or rice table. The word is given by the Dutch to Indonesian eating habit. All the dishes are served all at once in a table. In rijsttafel, there are appetizers, main
46 course, and desserts. In Indonesia, all the dishes can be eaten anytime not following the order of full course dinner. (B) The cover of the food recipes book made by the Dutch
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47 women. (C) Inside the book of food recipes. Q11,12 112
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50 recipe was recognized in Manado because of the native Indonesian productivity around 91 tons in a year (65%). At that time, coconuts 115
51 maids who worked for the Dutch families learned the tart recipe, were used for copra, oil, coconut milk, and others [4]. 116
52 the Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the The Dutch women engaged in daily activities such as cooking 117
53 Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to and tailoring. They also liked to write books on food recipes. They 118
54 people's curiosity on how to make it. were aware that coconut is one of the most productive commod- 119
55 ities in Manado. Relating to that, they had intention to create a dish 120
56 Klappertaart out of coconut. After some attempts, they finally created a proper 121
57 dish called “klappertaart” or coconut cake [5]. This recipe spread in 122
58 Klappertaart is one of the local dishes originated from North some ways, as the Dutch women did not do all cooking. If they had 123
59 Celebes, Manado. The dish is made from coconut, walnuts, and to make cakes for their husbands, native Indonesian maids usually 124
60 raisins, and it tastes sweet and savory. Klappertaart was created were asked to do that. In addition, some of the natives classified as 125
61 experimentally by elite Dutch women of that time. They realized upper class had the chance to get around and act like the Dutch did. 126
62 that Indonesia had a very large number of coconut farms. According They eventually were curious about the cake and got the recipe 127
63 to the Directorate of History and Traditional Values, in 1984e1985, from the Dutch right away. The spread of the recipe also happened 128
64 the most productive commodities were coconut, coffee, and clove. through its sales in Indonesia, so the natives were intrigued to learn 129
65 According to the data, coconut crops reached the highest and make it at home. 130

Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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38 Fig. 2. Location of Manado. It is located in North Celebes (Sulawesi Island), Indonesia. Manado is surrounded by the coastline. Manado is one of the cities in Indonesia that is chosen
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39 by the Dutch to get settled. Culture in Manado is influenced by the Dutch. 104
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42 Q10 Klappertaart is a component of “rijsttafel” or “rice table”, a Dutch historiography, the term of cultivation system was applied because 107
43 term that means an elaborate meal for following the presentation that policy was dominant on putting native people into hardships. 108
44 of many Indonesian side dishes served in a table all at once. The During the implementation, this system was dominated by politics 109
45 Dutch colonials usually had klappertaart as a dessert, whereas and humanity disregard [7]. 110
46 native Indonesians did not have any array setting and had the cake The Dutch colonization in Manado has much affected sur- 111
47 whenever they like. rounding people's lives at first place. The reason why the people 112
48 were acceptable to the new culture is because they were well 113
49 History of Manado and Dutch cultural influence known for their high tolerance toward ethnic and religion 114
50 diversity and acceptance of foreign culture. This is proved by 115
51 According to the Communication and Informatics Department prevalence of many Dutch cultural habits in Manado which were 116
52 of City of Manado [6], Manado is the capital city of the North Cel- adopted since the colonization, such as housing and yard setting, 117
53 ebes, Indonesia. Manado is the second largest city in Celebes after habitual parties, drinks, foods, and children naming (use of family 118
54 Makassar. The vast majority of the population is Minahasa tribe name). The correlation between Minahasa identity and the influ- 119
55 because Manado is a part of Minahasa region. The people use ence of the Dutch colonization has been termed Twapro, the 120
56 Manado language for daily communication; its dialect is from local acronym of Twalfde Provincie van Netherlandsch (the 12th province 121
57 language, Dutch, Portuguese, and Spain because the region was of the Netherlands). This term once came to be problematic Q13 122
58 under these three countries’ rule. regarding Minahasa people identities in Indonesia. They were 123
59 Manado was set up to be a defense of Verenigde Oost-Indiesche identified as the being most influenced by the Dutch culture in all 124
60 Compagnie (VOC) since 1682 after Spain took over the region. live aspects above all other regions in Indonesia [8]. 125
61 VOC built a fortress and warehouse to handle Spain and Ternate. In the early 19th century, during the Dutch colonization, Min- 126
62 VOC established a cultivation system called Cultuurstelsel that ahasa people were enlightened and introduced to Christianization 127
63 required a portion of agricultural production to be devoted to and education. The Dutch presence also trained the locals about 128
64 Q12 exporting crops in VOC charge. VOC considered that North Celebes pig and cow livestock. The education that Minahasa people 129
65 was a strategist trading route. But, in the Indonesian conventional attained was a Western style education that taught the essence of 130

Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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19 Fig. 3. The process of making klappertaart. (A) Dough of klappertaart. (B) The addition of young coconut meat to the dough. (C) The dough is ready to be baked. (D) The dough is put 84
20 into the oven and baked at 160 C for 15 minutes. (E) The addition of meringue, raisins, and walnuts on the top of the half-baked klappertaart. (F) The klappertaart is ready to be 85
21 served after another 20 minutes of baking. 86
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Fig. 4. Manado is rich in natural resources. One of the commodities abundantly available in Manado is coconut. In 2014, North Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconut. The
39 meat of young coconut is used as an ingredient in preparing klappertaart. Coconuts have become exported commodities to several countries. The Netherlands is one of the 104
40 importers. 105
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43 openness, so Minahasa people tended to be open for foreign Klappertaart recipe gains its wide recognition in Indonesia 108
44 culture. because of native Indonesian maids who worked for elite Dutch 109
45 families, Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with 110
46 Preparing klappertaart the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to 111
47 people's curiosity on how to make it. Many Dutch women also 112
48 The ingredients used in the preparation of klappertaart are five include the klappertaart recipe in their cook book [4]. 113
49 young coconuts, three to four tablespoons of plain flour, half a 114
50 bottle of fresh milk, three to four spoons of sugar, eight egg yolks, Brief history of klappertaart 115
51 four tablespoons of butter, eight egg whites, four tablespoons of 116
52 raisins, and cinnamon powder, and the cooking equipment used is During the era of the Second World War, the Dutch's opinion 117
53 pan, oven, and spatula. toward desserts and snacks was different. Desserts are considered 118
54 The process of preparing klappertaart begins with preheating more symbolic as they take a long time to be prepared and have 119
55 the pan and melting the butter. Then, some flour, milk, and sugar complicated methods and ingredients, whereas it is the other way 120
56 are added and mixed together. An egg yolk was added along with a around for the snacks. Therefore, by looking at the former aspects, 121
57 ladle of the previous mixture into a separate bowl. Then, the con- klappertaart is considered a dessert as it has complicated methods 122
58 tents of the mixture are mixed until a thick consistency is obtained and ingredients. In addition, during the Second World War, desserts 123
59 and then some raisins and chopped coconut meat are added into were only served during special occasions [9] as klappertaart had 124
60 the mixture. The stove is turned off, and the mixture is poured into rare and expensive ingredients. Nevertheless, in the era of post- 125
61 the baking pan. The mixture is baked for 15 minutes at 320 F World War II, desserts became less fancy and started to be served 126
62 (160 C). While the mixture is being baked, the egg whites and sugar more often. Nowadays, klappertaart has become Indonesians' fa- 127
63 are beaten until it becomes firm and stiff. After 15 minutes, the cake vorite dessert to be served during occasions such as, family gath- 128
64 is taken out, the egg whites mixture is added on top, and it is baked erings or birthday parties. Moreover, klappertaart is also sold as a 129
65 for another 20 minutes. common dessert. 130

Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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C.C. Handoyo et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods xx(2017) 1e6 5

1 The main ingredient of klappertaart is the meat of young coco- Therefore, almond is considered as a valuable and important 66
2 nut. This is because there are lots of coconut trees grown in Celebes. commodity which needs to be developed [24]. 67
3 According to North Celebes Central Agency on Statistics (Badan 68
4 Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara) [10], Celebes produced Conclusion 69
5 284.33027 tons of coconuts in 2014. This makes coconuts Indo- 70
6 nesia's most exported commodity [11], whereas coconuts are the The Dutch colonization in Indonesia also brings positive impacts 71
7 most imported commodity in the Netherlands [12]. to the country, and klappertaart is one of them. It is acculturation 72
8 In addition, one of klappertaart's main ingredients is flour, between Indonesia and the Netherlands in North Celebes. Klap- 73
9 which is made from wheat. Wheat is first introduced in Indonesia pertaart recipe is passed on from the Dutch people to native In- 74
10 around the beginning of 18th century during the Dutch coloniza- donesians who worked for them or were friends with them. 75
11 tion. At that time, wheat is cultivated in a land >900 m above the Klappertaart was served during special occasions due to how 76

12 sea level with the average optimum temperature of 72e75 F, so expensive its ingredients were back in those days. But nowadays, 77
13 that the European citizens in Indonesia can have enough food klappertaart has become a part of the Indonesian culture, and it is 78
14 supplies [13]. The consumption of wheat (flour, for instance) by now easier to find. 79
Q16
15 the Dutch was a very common habit, and Indonesians started to 80
16 adapt to this kind of habit eventually. Therefore, flour is included 81
17 as an ingredient to develop the texture of klappertaart. Moreover, Acknowledgment 82
18 several types of flours, such as corn starch and custard [14], were 83
19 used as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. The purpose of We would like to thank Dr. Jugiarie Soegiarto, M. Hum, lecturer 84
20 combining several types of flour is to create that moist and soft of Faculty of Humanity, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, 85
21 texture in the klappertaart. Indonesia, and Mr. Andreas Maryoto as journalist and humanist for 86
22 The type of dairy product included in klappertaart is milk. providing advice in the process of writing this research entitled 87
23 Nevertheless, the consumption of dairy product is not adapted from “Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influence traditional food”. 88
24 the Indonesian culture. Indonesians consume less dairy compared We would also like to thank Dr. Albert Kuhon, the lecturer of Cul- 89
Q15
25 with other ASEAN countries [15]. According to Morey [16], 90% of tural Food Studies, Universitas Surya, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia. 90
26 dairy production is located in West Java. Other regions of dairy 91
27 production are Malang, Pasuruan, Boyolali, Semarang, and Ban- References 92
28 dung, whereas such production does not exist in North Celebes 93
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Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods
(2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002