Craft Cluster (Banjara Osmanabad)
Craft Cluster (Banjara Osmanabad)
Craft Cluster (Banjara Osmanabad)
Semester V
Group members-
Amar Pratap
AshimaPratap
argiBhusari
Rachita Kapoor
RuchidaPhule
Sarthak Singh
Tamisha Shankar
ZainabDaginawala
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Preface
Art being a very subjective term, marks its presence in infinite and diverse forms
consisting of anything and everything. At present, art is an integral part of our lives as it
acts as a breather for both our ideas and skills.
This document is about the banjara tribe and their beautiful works which they incorporate
in their dressing. Since this art is dying slowly, we the students and the teachers of N.I.F.T.
took up an initiative to help the tribe continue their works and sell their pieces in the
markets for their livelihood as well as to protect their art.
This document covers the their history, lifestyle and their costumes in detail. It also
includes information about the different villages and tribes. In addition to this, we as
designers have come up with innovative designs that can use banjara work like never used
before. This way, the tribe learns something new and earns a good amount of money and
we open our minds to innovation.
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Index
Acknowledgement…5
Introduction…6
About lambani…7
History…11
(social infrastructure, daily routine, source of income, religion, culture and belifs, marriage)
Costumes…17
(men women)
Raw material…20
Techniques used…21
Stitches…23
Colours…24
Ornamentation…25
Products…29
Time span…32
Tandas…33
Design intervention…36
Conclusion…44
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Acknowledgement
The documentation of the art wouldn‟t have been possible without the help
of our mentor Mr.Sanjay More who strived for excellence in us. We would
like to express our deepest gratitude to him for his undying support and
invaluable guidance. Also if it wasn‟t for him and the National Institute of
Fashion Technology, we wouldn‟t have been able to visit Osmanabad and
see the beautiful works performed by the banjara women.
A special thanks to all the villagers in Tuljapur for their patience and
corporation. Also their welcoming attitude made us feel like we are at
home.
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Introduction
We the students of the knitwear design department got an opportunity to witness the banjaracraft performed by the women in
the villages of Tuljapur. We have covered this craft as well as the people related to the craft and have made a detailed
document for the same.
Objective- The main objective was to explore and learn the craft, lifestyle, culture and costumes for the banjara community by
interacting with them. We had to understand the problems they face personally and also problems that are craft related and
come up with solutions for the same. We also had to come up with new ideas so as to use their craft in our modern innovative
designs. This would help them earn money and continue the dying craft.
Methodology- Before we left for the trip we did some brain storming about how to study their craft, lifestyle, culture,
costumes etc. we collected raw data about the area, the craft, the raw materials, the people and their lifestyle, their culture, the
villages, etc. during the first week of the project called the research period which was done in college.
We stayed in the village for 10 days and collected information by the following methods- survey, observation, questionnaire
and sampling. We also maintained a learning diary that has all the information about the places we visited each day and
information on the craft.
After coming back from the trip, we spent a week on the documentation. We compiled all the information that the 8 members
of the group had collected and made a fair document and a power point presentation for the jury panel.
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About banjara
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Location and geography
Osmanabad
'Osmanabad' was named after the ruler of
Hyderabad state, Osman Ali Khan.
TuljaBhavanimandir is located in Tuljapur town of
Osmanabad district. It is one of the Shakti Peethas
in Maharashtra.
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Tuljapur
Tuljapur is a town in Osmanabad district. Osmanabad, Bhoom,
Paranda, Washi and kalamb are the nearby towns.
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Temperature and climate of Tuljapur
The city has a tropical climate. There is good rainfall during summers
and very little rainfall as the winter approaches
The average temperature in Tuljapur is around 26 degrees Celsius.
The average rainfall here is nearly 877mm.
Most of the rainfall occurs in September, averaging 204mm.The
highest temperature is in May; around 32 Degrees Celsius. December
is the coldest with the temperature being nearly 21 degrees Celsius.
Transport
Tuljapur has a very good connectivity with cities like Pune, Mumbai,
Kolhapur, Miraj-Sangli, Pandharpur, Nagpur, Parbhani, Latur, Nanded,
ParaliVaijnath, Hyderabad, and Nizambad.
NH9 and NH211. NH211 connects Osmanabad to other major cities.
There is an airport in Osmanbad district situated approximately 10kms
from smanabadcity.The airport does not see any air traffic apart from
the visits from the state government aircrafts.
The nearest operational airports are Pune International airport and
ShriChhatrapatiSambhajiRaje International airport.
Temperature graph
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History
The tribe, forced by the compulsions of trade, was continuously on the move, and this probably helped to preserve its only
form of wealth, cattle, from localised droughts, which are quite common even to this day. However, in the absence of concrete
historical evidence the reasoning could reversed to state that the Lambdas, to protect their cattle from drought moved in search
of feed and subsequently took to trade which was initially a subsidiary means of livelihood. The development of cheap modern
means of road and rail destroyed their occupation.
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Lifestyle and society
Social infrastructure
Daily routine
The men work in the fields and contribute to agriculture. The women finish the household chores and sit with the banjara craft
in their free time.
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Source of income
Its only the men that earn in the society. Most
of them earn their livelihood through
agriculture.
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All the ladies attending the wedding dress
up in their typical traditional attire.
Items given for dowri
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Gala- An unmarried girl wears Kaththar or karchi- Groom holds
this on her head and recieves this in his hand during marriage
the groom , for the wedding. after putting haldi. This ornament is
kept to stay away from bad spirits.
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Costumes
Banjara men
They wear turban as a form of head gear. Men of the Lambani tribe are mostly seen dressed up in white dhotis and kurtas.
Banjara women
Women of the Lambani tribe wear decorated clothing (mirror and patch work). Jewelry is also an essential part of their
costume, they wear finger rings, bangles, bracelets, earrings, etc. In addition to that for hair accessories they use hairpins
(bobby pins).
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Women are known to wear colourful and bright costumes like phetiyas (ghagra) and kanchali (top), the top is usually backless
so they wear a thin cotton blouse inside. They also have tattoos on their hand. They use mirrors, coins and shells to decorate
they outfit.
Their ornaments are made up of sliver rings, coins, chain, shells, beads, etc. The garments are embroidered using bright and
warm colour threads and covered with a mosaic of mirror work.
Rings made of 2 rs
coins
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Garment-
Kanchali (the blouse)
Mostly round or square mirrors are used. The mirror work done by them is
beautifully finished by buttonhole stitch and then bordered by chain stitch.
The Kanchali is totally backless with just two strings used to tie the blouse. Use of round mirror on the panels and
extensive embroidery techniques on the
blouse
The skirt is called “Ghagro”.The length/ falls of the skirt are just
slightly above the ankle level in order to show the foot
ornamentation and also for the free movement.The skirt is pleated
and required approx. 3-3.5 metersof fabric.
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Ankle length skirt
Raw material
Fabric
Usually loosely woven dark blue or red handloom base fabric is used. The
base cloth used is either cotton khadi or power loom fabric, thus working
in harmony with the local small scale industry
Dyes
Thread
Appliques
applique
Embroidery
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Designs/patterns used in embroidery
The lambani embroidery is an amalgam of pattern darning, mirror work, cross stitch, and overlaid and quilting stitches with the
borders of “Kangura” patchwork appliqué, done on loosely woven dark blue or red handloom base fabric.
Using the regular needle they create decorative embroidered patterns on their attire,
The distinctiveness of the lambani embroidery is the random designs and bright colours that is so traditional to this tribe.
Usually all over patterns are created, which covers the base of the fabric.
Sometimes, geometrical patterns like circles, rectangles and squares are made which are heavily embroidered with colourful
threads and decorated with embellishments like shells, coins, mirrors and beads etc.
Patchwork or appliqué technique is other form of technique used by them to create patterns. In these small pieces of cloth are
cut into triangles and stitched onto the base cloth, with sides being nearly turned in. These appliqué triangles specially feature
as borders and create a charming pattern.
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Stitches
Lambanis use a variety of stitches to embroider. The 14 types of stitches used in lambani embroidery are-
Running
Herringbone
Buttonhole
Blanket
Feather stich
These include the running stitch, which often appears as small dashes, the running stitch lends itself to creating a variety of
patterns on cloth. It is worked in parallel lines and a thread of a contrasting colour is intertwined between the stitches in a line
to create a neat horizontal pattern. Similarly a thread may be intertwined between lines to form a criss-cross pattern.
Other than that there is chain stitch that is sometimes tightly and densely worked, almost covering the ground fabric; small
loops that look like grains; satin stitch; herringbone stitch, and buttonhole stitch. The chain stitch may be worked in different
directions such as zigzag to create patterns.
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Colours
There are 13 colours that are mostly used in Lambani embroidery, out of which; red and blue are most common. The base cloth
used is either cotton khadi or power loom fabric and is also dyed locally, thus working in harmony with the local small scale
industry. Although most of the fabric is dyed using chemical colours, vegetable dyes made from Kattha, Rathanjot,
ChawalKudi, Pomegranate peel etc are gaining popularity.
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Ornamentation
Hair Ornamentation
The Banjara women‟s hair ornamentation is very unique from that of other
tribes. Instead of using the more famous mathapatti and tikka, these tribes use
beads and ghungru‟s as their jewellery.
Topri - This ornament is in the shape of a bell. Attached to the base of this bell
are number of ghungroos. They are worn on both sides of the hair parting. All
the elements of a topri are made of silver metal.
Pinni -Pinnis are beaded hair pins that are fixed on the plaits formed on each
side. A variety of coloured beads are used to make each piece of pin. Various
motifs are often created on the pins. Some pinnis also have layers of beads
suspended from the pin.There a specific sequence that the banjara women
follow while putting on the hair ornaments. First the hair in the crown part is
divided into two section
Hair ornamentation
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Nose Ornamentation
Nath -Nath is a commonly used nose ornament used among women of all castes Nose ornamentation
and tribes of India. It is a ring of a diameter of 3-4cm. The nath can be a simple
ring or embellished with gold beads.
Neck Ornamentation
The neck is often the most heavily ornamented area of a woman‟s body. These women
layer up a number of neck ornaments ranging from two to six or seven. Their neck
ornaments are mostly made up beads, gold and silver.
Neck ornamentation
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Long necklaces that lay below the bust are made with a combination of colourful beads and silver or gold beads. They have 2-
3 layers within one neckpiece. These necklaces come in a wide variety with some made completely of small gold beads with a
motif allover or just beads used throughout the necklace. The banjara folks wear a number of these neckpieces with varying
lengths.
Mangalstra – All the married tribes‟ women wear a mangalsutra. A mangala sutra is a necklace that a Hindu groom ties
around the bride's neck in a ceremony called MangalyaDharanam which is the main ritual of Hindu marriage ceremony. The
woman continues to wear the mangala sutra as a sign of her marital status
Arm Ornamentation
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Ankle and Feet Ornamentation
The feet of these folks are fairly less decorated as compared to the rest of
their ornaments.
Toe rings- Around 2-3 toe rings are worn by these women. The rings are of
different designs ranging from having designer motifs to a simple silver
band.
Accessories
Purse - All the banjaran women carry a similar type of purse with varying designs. The most
commonly used motifs are that of a geometric heart and an allover chevron print. Beads are
the materials used to decorate front panel of the purse. The purse is worn on around the waist
by tucking the upper portion into their petticoat.
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Products made by lambani women
Women of the family pick up this craft at a very early age from their
mothers. All the products are made for the daily use purpose or for their
daughter's marriage, in-laws.
All the colours chosen, motifs used, fabrics are inherited from their
mother, as it is made traditionally.
Craft done by
women
boders
They are mostly used in 'ghunghato' that is the head cover or 'dupatta'.
borders
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Kantli
kantli
Batwa
These batwas are made using the fabric of old pants of men.
The front is worked with beads and beautiful designs are made by the
women. Women tuck these batwas in their Ghaghras.
30 batwa
Hair pins
women also make these creative hair pins using beads. They
tie it to the front part of the hair.Its also called pinni.
Hair pins
Rings
rings
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Time span
Banjara women are mostly into household chores. They utilize their free time fruitfully by making these beautiful Banjara
products. The usual time taken to make these products worked with embroidery, mirror work and bead work could be a month
or more along their other chores .When they work continuously they can finish it in a few weeks time. The hair pins they make
could be done in abundance in one day.
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Tandas
A tanda is a small group of houses set apart from a gram panchayat where a banjara or lambani families dwell.
According to a sarpanch of grampanchayat there are 78tandas in tuljapur, 100 in umarga and 6-7 tandas all in osmanabad .
MaulinagarTanda
JyotiChavan is the sarpanch .She has done her graduation in fashion designing from Amravati , Maharashtra.
This tanda was the cleanest tanda with air conditioned sarpanch office.
Paryavaranvikas ,2011.
DeepaknagarTanda
Sanjay Rathod is the sarpanch of this tanda . He has a mastersdegree in sociology and also handles the responsibility of taluka
head .
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This tanda consists of 227 homes with a population of approximately 777 people including 430 males .
Deepaknagar has high literacy rates . Citizens from this like K.G Rathod is ex.serviceman and ex.sarpanch .
There are around 50 college going people from this tanda and the facility of library is also available , whereas the tanda has
zillaparishad school from 1-4th standard.
Women from this town source the raw materials from Lakshmi market (Solapur) . This tanda runs an NGO GorsikwadI in
Nanded so that the costume and authentic jewellery never gets extinct.
.JahangirdarTanda
With population of around 2000 people this tanda has 200 homes within , with female population of 900 and 1100 male
population . .
Main occupation of the villagers is agriculture and labour . People from this village have migrated to cities and have
professions like collecter and commissioner .doctor and speaker in kalian
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.VasantnagarTanda
Vasantnagartanda is situated 30 km away from tuljapur. The only tanda which comes under a nagarparishad.Suman Ashok
Jadhavis the sarpanch of this tanda .
This village consists of 190 homes with population of 1200 individuals , male population is around 657 approximately and
female population around 600 .
GandhuraTanda
A very small tanda which we encountered situated in between the infertile lands of osmanabad . Far away from basic amenities
. This village has 50 homes with population of 250 individuals. With just 25 banjara women who actually wear this costume.
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Design intervention
Sarthak Singh
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RuchidaPhule
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GargiBhusari
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Tamisha Shankar
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AshimaPratap
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RachitaKapoor
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ZainabDaginawala
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Amar Pratap
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Conclusion
• After visiting different tandas and learning about their dying craft, we have come up with products that the
women can make sell
• In this way India doesn‟t lose a beautiful craft and the banjara women can earn their livelihood.
• For us Niftians, we got a good exposure and could come up with various design interventions
Strengths-
Rich in tradition: The banjaras have never added a personal style, detail, or colours for further improvisation.
Consistent colour palette, combination of stitches, placements and choice of materials makes the craft
traditionally strong
Aesthetic appeal: The aesthetic appeal is very symbolic to the tribe and their customs and traditions. Although,
the use of stitches, colours, motifs, patterns and their placements is diverse, the end appeal of the product of the
tribe. It is aesthetically inspiring and has immense scope for design intervention.
Design element: Their motifs, stitches, patterns and techniques used give us large scope while trying to
contemporize and commercialize the product.
Adaptive nature of the tribe: They may adapt by changing the group name and adopting appropriate mannerism
to reflect their change. A simple detail just as a meandering chain stitch around a bold coloured embroidery
inside is an aspect that sets the banjaras from northern Karnataka apart from a banjara of Maharashtra.
Weakness-
The banjara staunchly retain cultural integrity by tending to confuse interrogators. They like it when people
notice them and their dress but they are not to prone to answer direct questions related to their tribe.
Lack of documentation: They entertain the attention for the beauty of their costume but they don‟t entertain any
questions related to their tribe or costume.
Redundancy- No improvisions have been done by the banjaras in their craft but it is a very lucrative industry.
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