Elna Serger Instruction Manual 624dse 614de 604e
Elna Serger Instruction Manual 624dse 614de 604e
Elna Serger Instruction Manual 624dse 614de 604e
6142 6 0 4
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS - Switch the machine off (O) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such
as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot and
the like.
- Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricat-
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
ing or w h e n making any other user servicing mentioned in the instruction manual.
including the following:
- Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
- Do not use outdoors. Always store the machine indoors.
Read all instructions before using the machine.
- Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is
being administered.
- To disconnect, turn all controls to the off position, then remove plug from outlet.
DANGER
- Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug not the cord.
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
- The machine should be disconnected from the electricity supply w h e n not in use.
- If the power cord of the machine is damaged, it must be replaced by a special cord
- The machine should never be left unattended w h e n plugged in. by your nearest authorized dealer or service center.
- Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and
before cleaning.
"SAVE THESE
- Always unplug the machine before replacing the bulb. Always replace the bulb w i t h
the same type rated 15 Watts maximum.
\ A / A ON I IK \ { ^ T o
reduce the risk of burns, fire, INSTRUCTIONS"
VV/AI \ l Nil N V ^ electric s h o c k or injury to persons:
For U.S.A.
- The foot control type 4C-335B and/or 4C-316B should be used w i t h the machine.
- This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).
- Do not allow the machine to be used as a toy. Pay close attention when the machine To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet
is used by or hear children. only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
- Use the machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. the plug in any way.
- Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
properly, if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water. Return the machine
to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical
or mechanical adjustment.
- Never operate the machine w i t h any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings
of the sewing machine and foot control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose
cloth.
- Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing
needle and moving blade.
- Do not use bent needles.
- Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
Dear Customer, Cone Holders and Caps 4
Instant Rolled/Narrow Hem Device 4
Needles 5
You have c h o s e n an o v e r l o o k s e w i n g m a c h i n e of t h e h i g h e s t q u a l i t y , w h i c h w i l l Presser Foot Lever 5
m a k e y o u r h o u r s of s e w i n g b e c o m e h o u r s of pleasure a n d r e l a x a t i o n . Snap-on Sewing Foot 5
Threading the Machine
W e c o n g r a t u l a t e y o u o n y o u r c h o i c e a n d h o p e t h a t it w i l l give y o u l a s t i n g Threading the Upper Looper 6
s a t i s f a c t i o n . Before y o u s t a r t t o u s e y o u r m a c h i n e , please t a k e a f e w m i n u t e s Threading the Lower Looper 6
t o s t u d y t h i s i n s t r u c t i o n m a n u a l . You w i l l f i n d t h a t it w i l l a s s i s t y o u in y o u r Threading the Right Needle 7-
c o m p l e t e u n d e r s t a n d i n g of t h e f u n c t i o n s a n d c a p a b i l i t i e s of y o u r o v e r l o o k Threading the Left Needle 7
Changing the Threads 7
machine.
Test Sewing
If y o u w i s h t o o b t a i n m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , please d o n o t h e s i t a t e t o c o n t a c t y o u r 4-Thread Overlook 8
dealer w h o is f u l l y q u a l i f i e d t o a n s w e r y o u r q u e s t i o n s . F u r t h e r m o r e , y o u r Safety Device (Model 6 2 4 ) 8
dealer s h o u l d also be c o n t a c t e d f o r all t e c h n i c a l i n t e r v e n t i o n s w h i c h are u n d e r
Adjustments
w a r r a n t y . T h a n k y o u f o r c h o o s i n g a 6 0 0 series overlooker.
Thread Tensions 9
Stitch Length 10
Kindest regards, Differential Feed (Models 6 2 4 & 614) 10
Cutting Width (Models 6 2 4 & 614) 11
The manufacturer
Foot Pressure 11
Disengaging/Re-engaging the Moving Blade 11
Utility Stitches
3-Thread/4-Thread Overlook 12
3-Thread Rolled/Narrow Hem 12
Decorative Topstitching/Flatlock 13
Sewing Edge-to-Edge 13
Pin-Tucks 13
2-Thread Overcast (Model 624) 13
2-Thread Rolled Hem (Model 624) 14
Household Overlook Sewing Machines Other Sewing Applications
Models 624DSE, 614DE & 604E Turning Outside Corners w i t h o u t Cutting the Threads 15
Overlooking Inside Corners 15
Turning Curved Edges 16
Removing Stitches f r o m Sewn Fabric 16
TABLE OF CONTENTS Sewing Extra Heavy Fabrics 16
Main Parts
© Pressure control knob
@ Left needle thread tension (blue)
@ Right needle thread tension (red)
@ Upper looper thread tension (yellow)
© L o w e r looper thread tension (green)
© T h r e a d guide pole
© T e n s i o n release lever (Model 624)
® Spool pin
© C o n e holder
© Spool pin base
© ON/OFF switch
@ Stitch length slide
© Differential feed control slide (Models 6 2 4 & 614)
@ Needle clamp
© Presser foot
® Needle plate
© Side cover
@ Front door
@ Flywheel
® Foot control
Front Door
© Upper looper
© Lower looper
@ Instant rolled/narrow hem device
© Left needle
© Right needle
© Moving blade
© Feed dogs
© Fixed blade
STANDARD A C C E S S O R I E S
Side Cover
Accessory box and accessories included with the machine:
@ Carrying grip
© Lamp cover © Wrench for replacing moving blade 3 9 6 0 0 1 - 13
©Sewing light (15 watts maximum) @ Allen screwdriver 1.5mm 396002- 69
© Cutting w i d t h dial (Models 6 2 4 & 614) @ Cleaning brush 396001-69
© Moving blade release lever @ Tweezers 396001-62
@ Presser foot lever © Oil tube 396001-70
© Assortment of needles ELx705 396001-51
© Spare moving blade 396001-60
© 2-thread converter (Model 624) 3 9 6 0 0 1 - 19
© Spool caps 396002- 07
© Transparent discs 3 9 6 0 0 1 - 37
© Dust cover 396002- 09
@ Screwdriver 396001-71
© Accessory box 396001-72
@ Waste tray (Model 624) 396001-74
Special Accessories
Your dealer will be pleased to give you further details.
Cone Holders and C a p s
PREPARATION Both industrial and domestic type thread
spools can be used on the machine. For
industrial spools, the cone holders (a).
Connect the foot control, pushing the For spools w i t h a large diameter, place
plug well into the machine plug box. the cone holders higher up on the spool
The ON/OFF s w i t c h turns the light on (I) pins or place them w i t h the widest end
or off (0), as well as the supply of electric on top (see illustration), so that the spools
current to the motor. Switch on to run the can be seated firmly on the spool pin
machine and off when you are not sew- base. Place the spools perpendicularly.
ing. The electric foot control regulates When using domestic type spools, remove
motor and sewing speeds. The greater the the cone holders and place the caps (b)
pressure on the control, the higher the over the spools of thread.
speed. Press preferably w i t h the sole of
the foot, not w i t h the toes.
Instant Rolled/
Narrow Hem Device
Extension D i s c s By engaging the lever (c), your machine
sews wider overlock stitches. By dis-
2 transparent discs are supplied w i t h the
engaging the lever (c), your machine is
machine. Place them at both ends of
ready to sew a rolled/narrow hem, w i t h o u t
the spool pin base, as illustrated, to
changing the needle plate or the presser
avoid thread tangling.
foot. To disengage the lever (c), first
open the front door, raise the presser
Thread Guide Pole foot and bring the needle(s) to the highest
Pull the thread guide pole up to the highest or lowest position by turning the flywheel
position. Make sure that each thread t o w a r d s to you by hand.
guide is located exactly above its respec- Pull the knob (d) first to the right, and
tive spool pin. then swing it down.
To engage the lever (c), take the same
steps, pull the knob (d) to the right, and
then swing it up.
Needles Presser Foot Lever
Your overlook sewing machine has been To raise the presser foot, swing the lever
designed so that it can be used w i t h (c) d o w n and you can see the round mark
ordinary household sewing machine in red, as illustrated.
needles, 130/705H ( 1 5 x 1 ) , but it is never- To lower the presser foot swing the lever
theless advisable to use needles ELx (c) up.
7 0 5 , for the best stitching results. They N.B.
are needles for domestic use and can For sewing fluffy or fairly thick fabric,
also be used w i t h all ordinary household the extra lift (2 mm) will be available by
sewing machines. For normal or thick swinging the lever (c) down again.
fabric, use size 90 and for sheer fabric
size 80 needles. To change the needles,
raise the needle bar to the highest posi-
tion by turning the flywheel towards y o u ,
leaving the presser foot d o w n . Loosen
the needle clamp screws (a) w i t h the
Allen screwdriver (b), to remove the old
needles.
Hold the new needles w i t h the flat side
away from you and push t h e m up as far
as they will go. Tighten the screws firmly.
Make sure that the needles clear the
needle plate by turning the flywheel to-
wards you by hand.
Before starting to thread, make sure that the instant rolled/narrow hem device is well
engaged on the needle plate.
Threading the Right Needle Changing the Threads
- Coloured red on the chart and on If the machine has already been threaded
the thread guides. and you w i s h to change the threads, tie
Raise the needle bar to the highest the new threads to the old threads be-
position. Pass the thread through the tween the thread guide pole and the top
guides (A) to (C). Pass the thread thread guides. First release (Model 624)
through the open slot of the take-up or loosen the tensions, then pull the
lever cover (D) and d o w n to the guides looper threads gently behind the needle
(E) and (F). Finally thread the right until the knots have passed through.
needle from front to back, then under Next pull the needle thread gently and
the foot, leaving about 10 cm of the bring the knots to the front of the needles.
thread to the left. Cut the thread at both ends of the knots
and pass them through the respective
eyes of the needles.
Threading the Left Needle
- Coloured blue on the chart and on
the thread guides.
Follow a similar procedure as above,
and also s h o w n on the diagram,
passing the thread through the thread
guides and left needle tension and
finally thread the left needle, steps
(a) to (f).
Before staring to sew, check again that
all the threads have been properly passed
through every thread guide and are well N.B.
engaged between the t w o tension discs It is advisable to raise the tension release
of each tension control, to ensure good lever so t h a t the t w o tension discs of
sewing results. the red and blue tension controls open.
You can pull the needle threads in front
N.B. of the needles easily (Model 624).
Should it be necessary at any time to
re-thread the lower looper, always remove
the thread from the needles first, to avoid
tangling.
TEST SEWING 3. Place a scrap of fabric to be stitched
in front of the presser foot, then de-
press the foot control. Do not pull
the fabric; guide it gently.
4-Thread Overlook
After the machine has been threaded,
start sewing in the following sequence:
1. Make sure that the front door is closed.
Thread Tensions
1. A balanced tension 4. If the upper looper thread (c) is loose and
( a ) - ( b ) The needle threads lie on the p u l l e d over t o t h e u n d e r s i d e of
top side of the fabric (just like a row the fabric, increase the upper looper
of normal straight stitches) on the tension and/or decrease the lower
underside , 4 . ® ® upper looper thread, and just visible looper tension.
in the lower looper thread on the
underside of the fabric.
top side (c) The upper looper thread lies flat on
the top side of the fabric and locks
w i t h the lower looper thread on the
® 1
edge of the fabric.
(d) The lower looper thread lies flat on
the underside of the fabric and locks
w i t h the upper looper thread on the
\ © s
® 1 edge of the fabric.
2. If the left thread (a) is too loose and 5. If the lower looper thread (d) is loose
clearly visible on the underside of the and pulled up onto the top side of
fabric, increase the left needle thread the fabric, increase the lower looper
tension and/or decrease either or both tension and/or decrease the upper
looper thread tensions. looper tension.
N.B.
If the thread tensions are too tight, the
fabric will pucker.
Stitch Length By pushing the differential feed slide
(c) down to a higher number, the front
Most overlook sewing projects can be
feed dog (a) moves the fabric faster,
done w i t h the stitch length set at 2 to 3.
as shown. This helps to prevent knitted
However, you can easily change the stitch
or stretch fabrics from puckering and
length by shifting the stitch length slide
waving during sewing.
(a) between 0.5 and 4 , as desired.
(a) Correct
(b) The cutting w i d t h is narrower than
the stitch w i d t h . Turn the dial upwards
to increase the cutting w i d t h .
(c) The cutting w i d t h is wider than the
stitch w i d t h . In this case, the fabric Disengaging/Re-engaging the
might be rolled or the needle thread
tension miqht become loose. Turn the
Moving Blade
dial downwards to decrease the cutt- By disengaging the moving blade, you
f can enjoy various sewing techniques.
/ ing w i d t h .
1. To disengage the moving blade, first
® open the front door.
2. Push the moving blade release lever
(a) to the right and the moving blade
i will stop at (b) position.
3. Turn it towards you by hand.
4. To re-engage the moving blade, push
the moving blade release lever to the
right and turn it towards the back,
© then release the lever.
A
UTILITY STITCHES (A) Rolled hem (Right needle only)
Decrease the upper looper thread ten-
sion slightly and increase the lower
thread tension as required so that the
upper looper thread (a) is completely
3-Thread/4-Thread Overlook rolled d o w n to the underside of the
- Using the left needle, a 3-thread over- fabric.
lock 7.0 mm wide can be sewn.
- Using both needles, a 4-thread over- (B) Narrow hem (Right needle only)
lock 7.0 mm wide can be sewn. Increase both looper thread tensions
- Using the right needle, a 3-thread over- slightly so that the looper threads are
lock 3.7 m m wide can be sewn. firmly locked together on the edge of
the fabric.
N.B.
Whenever sewing w i t h 3-thread, remove
the needle and tighten the needle clamp
screw you are not using.
A
•
STITCH SELECTION CHART
The thread tension values, stitch length, needle position(s)
Stitches
and differential feed are basic settings and must be
adjusted or corrected depending on the fabric and the
threads.
4 THREAD
Stitch length
Needle position(s)
L = Left Differential feed
R = Right
Position of Position of
moving blade instant rolled/narrow hem device
Needles Blue Red Yellow Green Needles Blue Red Yellow Green Needles Blue Red Yellow Green
SL DF SL
J " 6 'J
L R L R L R
(Model 624)
FLATLOCK 2
no need
to thread
With the 2-thread convertor and a single needle, your
machine can sew a 2-thread flatlock, 2-thread overcast
A\i\mmm\\\u\\\\m\\\\\\
I
and 2-thread rolled hem.
© ® © ©
First fit the 2-thread convertor on to the upper looper
Blue Red Yellow Green
(see page 13).
When using the right needle tension (Red), thread the
right (R) needle.
When using the left needle tension (Blue), thread the
left (L) needle.
Needles Blue Red Yellow Green Needles Blue I Red Yellow Green
DF SL DF SL
UP i(
tension (Blue), you can also sew a 2-thread overcast XEl
wide. L R L R
A
MAINTENANCE
5. Brush the blade, feed dogs and the area
around it. Clean any accumulation of
lint. etc. inside the machine.
Your machine will always serve you faithfully, if it is cared for properly. 6. Refit the needle plate, sewing foot, side
cover and screw cap.
7. Re-engage the moving blade (see page
First unplug the machine according to the " I m p o r t a n t Safety I n s t r u c t i o n s " on page " 0 " .
11).
8. Oil the machine, as mentioned below
under "Lubrication".
Lubrication
When using your machine for the first
time, or if you have not used it for some
time, put a few drops of oil on the point
indicated. Wipe off any oil remaining
around the sewing area.
Replacing the Moving Blade Changing the Light Bulb
Replace the moving blade, if it becomes Unplug the machine before replacing the
blunt. Proceed as follows (a spare moving bulb.
blade can be found in the accessory box): Remember maximum input of the lamp
is 15 watts, should it have to be changed.
First unplug the machine.
Raise the presser foot and swing open
1. Open the front door and remove the the lamp cover. Unscrew the light bulb
side cover (see page 20). and replace the bulb by following the
2. Set the moving blade (a) in its engag- same procedure in the reverse order.
ed position and lock it (see page 16),
then remove it by loosening the bolt
(b) w i t h the wrench (c) found in the
accessory box.
Brush the fixed blade and the surround-
ing area to clean any accumulation of
lint, etc.
3. Lower the moving blade to the lowest
position by turning the flywheel to-
wards you. Put a new moving blade
in place making sure that its edge is
approximately 0.5 to 1.0 mm below
the surface of the fixed blade. Tighten
the bolt (b) firmly.
4. Unlock the moving blade, refit the
side cover and screw cap. Close the
front door.
N.B.
The fixed blade is made of a special
alloy and will rarely need to be replaced.
V
The machine jams
MINOR DISORDERS - Stitch length too short 10, 18-19
- Needle thread tension(s) too tight 9, 14, 18-19
Refer to the following pages for information:
- Incorrect thread tension(s) 9, 12, 14, 18-19
M Main Parts 2
Maintenance 20-21
Moving Blade 3, 1 1 , 16, 20-21
YOUR MACHINE
Moving Blade Release Lever 3, 11
Record in the space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this
N Needle Plate 2, 16, 20
appliance.
Needles 5
These numbers are located on the specification plate. Retain them for future
Needle Threading 7
reference.
O Oiling 20 Serial No
ON/OFF s w i t c h 2
Model No