Abstract

On the base of introducing the basic fundamental of wool sweater design, to introduce the
history and developing trend of sweater design by flat-knitting machine wool in China and
abroad. This essay disused the way and matters of the style design and craft single facture of
wool sweater in detail.

This paper also introduced what the software “system development of intellectualized design
for flat knitting”can do and its use function: to fully introduce the part of style design,
technological sheet making, technological remark and printing and etc, on the aspect of human-
computer dialogue about the software.

After respectively expatiating on the design idea, give out the specific calculation and flow to
fulfillment. Detailed discussed the mainly method of calculation used in this system, including
the calculation method for sleeves part , bottom part, back part and other parts of the woolen
sweater.

This paper analyzed the specific programming code of this software “system development of
intellectualized design for flat knitting”, pointed out that the program code includes three part:
style design codes, technological calculation sheet code and intellectualized code; and
discussed the specific programming idea, characteristic and process of application.

In the end of this essay, it introduced the specific way of use.

Keywords: woolen sweater design; style design; technological sheet making; intellectualized;
calculation; method
1 Overview
1.1 Knitting the product of knitting - Sweater industry and its development
With the development of human society and the improvement of people's material and cultural
life, people's pursuit of clothing has not only to cover and keep warm, but also tend to use it to
render and express themselves, decorate people's life, express human emotions , Giving the
United States to enjoy. As an important part of the woolen sweater (Woolen Sweater) is the use
of wool or wool chemical fiber yarn woven knitted clothing, knitting is a knitting products.
Because of its good elasticity, warmth, rich style, bright color and other advantages, has been in
the outer coat and decorative fabric market plays an increasingly important role. At the same
time, with the intensification of various social competition and the accelerated pace of life,
people's psychological pressure is also increasing, many people yearn for comfortable and free
life. Sweater loose, free, unfettered and changing characteristics of the people just in line with
this mentality, to meet the needs of many people, has gradually become a year-round clothing.
Whether fine choice of materials, fine workmanship, elegant style of high-grade cashmere
sweaters and pure wool or style rich, quality and cheap, bright color blends, chemical fiber
sweaters have been a lot of the market, Is getting more and more people of all ages.
Throughout the domestic and foreign markets, bearing the display of the unique style and
temperament and requires comfortable, loose sweater overall trend is more richer, personalized,
fashion, diversification and upscale [1]. Wool sweater production tends to use short update cycle,
increased production efficiency, can quickly adapt to market changes in a variety of small batch
production.
This mode of production inevitably requires reform of the previous sweater design, requiring a
new design and production to adapt, CAD technology came into being. Computer Aided Design
(CAD) is a kind of design system which combines computer hardware and software properly. It is
also a kind of general theory method to summarize activities and make the design be confirmed
and optimized. The computer has many advantages such as fast operation speed, large
information storage capacity, high memory capacity, high computing reliability, quick response
and display of graphics and images, and the ability of imagination, judgment and information
selection. . In the design of the solution process, people and computers and external equipment
close contact, is a play to their expertise in the operation of technology [2].
Computer-aided design technology to computer speed, accuracy and design personnel thinking,
comprehensive analysis of the ability to combine the joint operation, thus speeding up the
product design process, improve the quality of the design, accelerate product development and
upgrading, improve The competitiveness of the product, which can give enterprises a good
economic [3-4]. The traditional hand-designed sweater is time-consuming, time-consuming,
long-term, intuitive, and the calculation error is not in line with the market for rapid renovation
of the requirements of the fashion, thus restricting the overall production efficiency bottleneck.
The introduction of CAD technology in the design of sweaters can greatly improve this constraint.
The use of computers can create endless weaving patterns, generate the necessary production
process, and through the effect of simulation to save proofing process, greatly reducing the
design time, to adapt to the needs of the market cycle is short, high efficiency, variety, quick
change of production Become possible [6]. Therefore, CAD technology in the sweater design,
production and even management, sales and other aspects of the application has become a trend
and trend.

1.2 The status of research at home and abroad

With the research direction of this topic, the following three aspects of the domestic and
international research in related areas of progress. Domestic development of knitted cross-
clothing computer-aided design has also entered a decade of history, they knitting in the garment
enterprises have application. There are about 15 suppliers active in the Chinese apparel CAD
market, and in China more than 3,000 enterprises using computer design clothing, Lectra and
Gerber users have more than 2,000, that is, they have two accounted for nearly 2/3 of the market
share. As the world's first design, manufacture clothing CAD Company, Lectra and Gerber as early
as 80 years in the last century began to pay attention to the development of China's apparel CAD
industry, and in the mid-90s, began full access to the Chinese market. Therefore, when the CAD
in the Chinese market began to be concerned about the time, Gerber and Lectra's products have
long been in-depth among the many large garment enterprises in China. In particular, the French
Lectra, the Chinese clothing CAD this wasteland quietly hard for 10 years, and finally profound
knowledge, beyond the other competitors, accounting for 35% of the market. In addition, the
German Astor Benma founded in 1985, only took less than 20 years, they occupy the world's third
position in 1998, after entering the Chinese market, with a short period of 6 years, occupied Of
China's nearly 10% market share.

1.2.1 Wool sweater process calculation

Wool sweater process calculation is a key link in the production of sweaters, but in many sweater
CAD products, even the computerized flat knitting machine auxiliary design system, involving the
calculation of the process is also very small, because this part has always been Manual calculation
by experienced craftsmen, affected by empirical factors, not just a few formulas can be
completed, but not only by labor and time-consuming to complete, and errors and errors are
inevitable, coupled with the experienced The process of the increasingly scarce, when the small
batch, multi-species production of sweaters, in such a way to produce samples of the entire
production process has become a "bottleneck." This problem is aroused more and more
attention, also came into being a number of corresponding computer software.
The Hong Kong Productivity Council (HKPC) conducted this study under the auspices of the
Industrial and Technical Commission. They developed the PC-based CAD system software [7],
which consisted of three basic databases: a standard design template database in which the
sweater was classified according to the collar, front panel flap and shoulder type: the other
database The history of the order can be referenced on the basis of the original similar order; the
third database provides information on the weaving density, the coil type, the yarn type, the
count and the machine number. The most important function of the program is that it can output
the single instruction of the knitting instruction, specify the number of stitches, the number of
revolutions and the retracting needle, and can be used for knitting calculation of the jacquard
pattern and reporting the consumption of the yarn. Use of the software, so that the original few
hours to complete the process calculation can be completed in just 20 minutes, effectively
reducing costs.
1.2.2 Wool sweater style design
Style design of the CAD software is not a lot of work in this area mostly rely on artificial, especially
some of the professional designers to complete. For non-professionals and specifically for the
sweater for the design of the software is very rare.

1.2.3 Flower design and structural simulation

Some well-known computerized flat knitting machine manufacturers in foreign countries have
provided matching pattern design systems such as Stoll's Sirix [8], Universal's MA-8000 [9], Shima
Seiki's SDS [10] Most of these pattern design systems have a flower design, automatic generation
of weaving procedures, fabric structure simulation and model pre-dressing and other functions,
but these flower design system is generally applicable to its matching flat knitting machine for
production. In addition, there are some flexible CAD products can be designed flower pattern,
simulation of fabric effects, and some can also produce a variety of flat knitting machine for the
control procedures, such as Minima System [11], Easy Tex [12], Modex ExpertSystem [13], the
Prima Vision design software of Pengma Computer of Hong Kong also belongs to this category, it
is a multi-level, multi-functional CAD system, can weave, knit and so on different types of fabric
design, knitting part KnitEx pert with a structural unit library, including a number of commonly
used organizational structure, and has a very realistic simulation, the user can arbitrarily use
these structural units to create the desired pattern, you can instantly see the simulation of the
weaving effect, And can also be transferred from the sweater style library of any sweater style,
with the design pattern cover, get the desired clothing knitting effect.
The domestic flower design system and foreign compared to there is a big gap. Overall, foreign
computerized flat knitting machine design system overall functionality, design capability, in
addition to design patterns, simulation organizational structure, but also automatically generate
weaving program, but they are generally only applicable to its supporting computer Flat knitting
machine use, and these design systems do not include the sweater process calculation function,
this part or rely on hand to complete. Other CAD software is basically only a part of the realization
of the function, such as process calculation or flower design, the overall is not strong. The goal of
this project is to develop a set of intelligent design system which integrates process calculation,
style design and other functions into a whole.

1.3 programming language and the choice of development platform

1.3.1 Programming language selection
Programming language selection criteria include:

① the project areas of application. This is a key factor in choosing a design language. In other
conditions are available, as far as possible to choose a language suitable for an application.

② complexity of algorithms and computations. According to the characteristics of each language,

select the software project to adapt to the complexity of the algorithm and computational
language.

③ software execution environment. The language to be selected can only be the machine
configuration language.

④ performance factors. This is a criterion that takes into account the specific performance of the
project.

⑤ the complexity of the data structure according to each language construct the ability of data
structures to select the appropriate language.

⑥ level of software developers. Choose a language that software developers used to be familiar
with.

1.3.2 program development language and platform

Because of the system analysis of the model is under the guidance of the object-oriented design
ideas established, combined with the previously mentioned principles of programming language
selection, knitting cross-intelligent design system development is based on Windows xp
operating system, select C + + As the program development language, VC ++ 6.0 for the
development platform.
Chinese Windows xp operating system with its multi-window, multi-performance and graphical
user interface to provide users with a new, efficient and simple means of operation, while
providing programmers with a wealth of functions and internal routines.
C ++ language is an object-oriented strongly typed language, which was introduced by Bell Labs
of AT & T in 1986. It has been chosen as the basic development tool for many C and C languages
to be coexisted by many major foreign computer and software manufacturers. C + + is an
extension and improvement of C language, it maintains the C language concise, efficient and
close to the characteristics of assembly language, eliminating some of the C language insecurity,
such as type checking mechanism is relatively weak, the lack of support code reuse language
Structure and so on, support object-oriented programming, not only the reliability of the program
and the security of the data has been guaranteed, but also improve the code reusability, greatly
improving the efficiency of software development and reduce the labor intensity of developers.
VC ++ MFC library (Microsoft basic class library) is C + + Windows API (application programming
interface), with the MFC application framework for the application of the application of the use
of a standardized structure, The resulting code is short and runs fast. And VC ++ tools, such as
Explorer, Appwizard, Classwizard greatly reduce the time required to write the program code,
which uses a text editor to edit the program, while a variety of resources (menus, toolbars, etc.)
Derived "style of the tool to be edited [14].
In short, in the Windows programming with VC ++ friendly uniform graphical user interface, small
size, fast, easy to use, such as the advantages of Windows bottom.

2 system's overall framework and basic functions

2.1 The overall framework of the system
The design of the sweater garment products need to determine the types of raw materials used,
fabric organization, clothing styles, color methods, weaving, clothing, dyeing finishing process
and other aspects, the key link is the style design and weaving process design. Design fashionable,
short design cycle is the enterprise in the market based on capital, weaving the correctness of
the process will affect the efficiency of production. These two aspects are the focus of sweater
design.
In today's fashion trends under the influence of sweater production is also increasingly toward a
small batch, multi-species direction, in this case, to improve production efficiency has become
the primary problem, and how to shorten the product design time is to improve the production
of sweaters Efficiency of the key. In this paper, we design the knitting cross-knitting intelligent
design system. For example, the user can select the process code, then enter the model number,
select the type of garment to be done and edit the parameters according to the different
features. Sweater products, the operation of a single process, changing the past, paper, pen and
calculator design process can be significant savings in time, and user-friendly programming
interface, user-friendly process can be satisfied with the results of calculations to be modified.
The overall framework of the whole system, see Figure 2-1:

Development of Knitting Cross - knitting

Intelligent Design System

Number of Fine Design Style Technology Calculator

the basic Division Toolbar Single
definition Calculati Design
on

Men Collar Production

Collar
and Predec of a single
women Predec essor
essor process
Feature
Selection: Sleeve
Sleeve
Style , Collar
Sleeve type Print item
,Shoulder type Selection
Shirt type, Chest
width ,Under the Weaving a
machine blank,
Sleeve Single process,
calculation, Hem Finishing
rib, Hanging
shoulder, Process

Place the needle Alone

on the sleeve
2.2 The basic functions of a single production process
Part of the production process to achieve the main function is based on user input and input
process parameters to calculate. Program design style selection is divided into nine categories:
style, collar type, sleeve type, shoulder type, shape, shirt type, chest width, work and clothing
objects.
Styles are divided into: cardigan, pullover, vest, pants, skirts.
Collar type is divided into: V-neck, round neck, one collar, a small lapel, apricot collar.
Sleeve type is divided into: oblique sleeve, straight sleeve, saddle sleeve.
Shoulder type is divided into: shoulder before and after the shoulder, shoulder after the shoulder,
mark shoulders, shoulder, saddle shoulder.
The shape is divided into: H type, Y type, X type.
Shirt type is divided into: straight waist, waist, lower waist changes.
On the chest width is divided into: do not accept the chest width, close the chest width.
Work is divided into: fast, fine.
Clothing object is divided into: men's, women's, children's wear.
The following to cardigan, V-shaped collar as an example to introduce some of the features.
First in the fine part of the calculation of knitting clothes in the selection of various indicators of
the parameters. Select as follows:
The width of the back of each garment can choose different values, and then the results with the
data you enter is also different. Input width cannot enter the data is the default value of the
system, the value is a prior choice when the commonly used style input. Above the chest width
is an example.

After selecting "Style", click Next and the "Feature Selection" window will appear. In this window,
users can select the desired features, including style, collar, sleeve, shoulder, shape, Type, on the
chest width, work and clothing objects. See Figure 2-4.
Select a variety of "features", click Next, will jump out of "Cardigan v-type" window. The window
is divided into three parts, namely, paragraph number (has been entered, can not be modified),
density, size. After the completion of the contents of the two, a direct impact on the final
emergence of a single process of different changes.
In density terms, the need to enter the required density of nine: big body close, large body
longitudinal, collar rib longitudinal, rib longitudinal, hem rib longitudinal, sleeve transverse,
sleeve longitudinal, sleeve length.
Size items include: chest width, length, sleeve length and so on. The size item requires the user
to enter the size of each part of the knitted cross-stitch products. The parameters of these sizes
will vary with the style. See Figure 2-5.

When all the parameters are entered, you can enter the final step: the operation of a single
process. In this window, the user can view the calculation results. And can be determined
according to the different data to re-enter the parameters for calculation. See Figure 2-6.
In order to reduce the user input, user-friendly, especially some of the users are not familiar with
the sweater, the program only requires the user to enter some of the most basic parameters,
such as size, density, Needle, correction value into the back of the calculation formula, which can
greatly save time and unnecessary duplication of input.
Input can be obtained after the process of sweater production map, see Figure 2-7.
2.3 style design of the basic functions
2.3.1 Basic functions
Style design is the central task of sweater horizontal product design. Wool sweater style design
superiority and inferior will directly affect the sales of sweaters, thereby affecting the economic
benefits of the product.
Sweater style mix, to the design of computer-aided sweater style has brought some difficulties.
Opinion sweater roughly by the collar, sleeve, body and other major components. The sweater's
collar, sleeves, body basic well changed little, therefore, can be a different collar type, shape and
style of the sweater, but through the research and access to information found, Sleeve-type,
body-type design as the basic design of the graphics elements, the design world at any time
according to the need to call these pixel combinations, you can design a satisfactory style. Based
on the principle of practicality and universality, the design system uses several common collar
type (such as round neck, V neck, collar, etc.), sleeve type (such as straight sleeves, oblique
sleeves, flat sleeves) (Such as H-type, Y-type, X-type) as the basic graphics pixel. Through these
collar type, sleeve type and body type combination, can get dozens of basic types of sweater
style.
The picture shows the main window of the style design, in which the style design items and design
toolbars are designed for the design and production. Style design items for the user to provide
the basic design elements for the design, that is, some of the basic sweater collar type, sleeve
type and body type, when the user clicks on any of these icons, it will be in the middle user area
The picture box appears in the corresponding collar type, sleeve type and body type. The design
toolbar provides users with a simple way to choose different styles, do not need to go to style
design items to select, such as the choice of collar design, will appear on the left side of the
window collar selection simple way.

2.3.2 functional realization

First of all, the following describes the style column in the various basic drawing pixels.
(1) collar type
In the general style of sweater design, shirt collar to the main, accompanied by different forms
of the predecessor, sleeves, etc., a lot of sweater shirt name is to collar the shape of the name.
Collar is the most sweater clothing modeling changes, the most eye-catching parts.
Style column in the collar type V-neck, round neck, a collar, a small lapel, apricot collar (Figure 2-
9).

(2) the predecessor

Sweater body design is the shape of the upper body shape design, the design must be combined
with the human body, combined with the principle of the United States and sweater clothing
modeling, of course, the design must also understand the popular sweater body trend.
In general, the sweater has a H-type, V-type, X-and A-type four categories, this part provides the
Y-type, H-type and X-type three more common types (Figure 2-10) .
(3) Sleeve type
Sweater shoulder and sleeve-type design of the clothing effect of the larger, and they are closely
linked. Design, if the production process in a shoulder-type has been set, the sleeve type is also
roughly determined, and vice versa. Therefore, we design the shoulder and sleeve type, the
shape must be based on the shape of the design of the effective combination of the two, in order
to design a suitable sleeve type Figure 2-11.

2.4 step by step process calculation

Process step by step calculation can be considered a single production process fine example,
its function is more complete, mainly in the chest width has been improved. After the feature
selection, can be used in accordance with the commonly used models and specifications to
produce, you can also enter the required parameters according to body shape, and finally, in the
design of chest width, through the post-fold width, elasticity, transverse density, , The amount of
sewing on the front lapel, the change of the sewing consumption of the placket ribbons,
depending on the calculation method, to get different chest width, fitted placket cardigan chest
width needle number, even placket cardigan chest width needle number. The working window is
shown in Figure 2-12.
 2.5 standard definition

The role of the standard definition of choice: men or women's clothing section number,
according to the different models, the total height of the corresponding sweater, upper body
length, arm length. Then choose the top type, get the appropriate bust, neck circumference, total
shoulder width (Figure 2-13).
3 system design

3.1 Modeling principles

Knitting cross-edged intelligent design system is the application of computer graphics principles
in the design of sweater style CAD system, is the traditional style design method and computer
graphic display intuitive, with visual and other visual objects will be creative designers The results
show that the design of the design to facilitate the rationality of the judge, and in the system into
a number of computer intelligent design methods to assist in the design, design products become
convenient and fast, thereby improving design efficiency. This new design method with the aid
of computer is designed to change the current situation of the change of wool sweater style in
our country, and to shorten the design period of woolen sweater. Therefore, how to find an
effective and reasonable system design method is very important for the development of a
practical knitting cross-compilation intelligent design system.
Computer-aided sweater style design, in essence, is designed to simulate the activities of people,
design activities is a quick response. The traditional style design method is: the designer in the
brain to determine the design style collar type, body type, shoulder type, sleeve type, and then
painted on paper. If the style is not modified, to determine the size of the finished product
specifications, and then the preparation of weaving cloth map. From the traditional design point
of view, to determine the size of finished products are part of a single design process things,
resulting in the size of the finished product size and style separation of the phenomenon, that is,
the style sheet on the finished product design is just hand-painted , And can not see the correct
size to determine the existence of the design of blindness. At the same time, many sweater style
design system is based on the combination of component graphics form, but for a traditional
designer, style component name selection than a series of graphics operations to form a more
understandable and operational.
Therefore, the system break through the original traditional design ideas, style drawings and
finished product size chart together, making the finished product size and size in the form of
intuitive expression, that is the size of the actual dimension of the map is a miniature, but in the
miniature Dimensions are marked on the diagram. For the determination of style, the system
uses the dialog box input form, the dialog box is an effective way to deal with multiple data input,
in the dialog box, simply select the appropriate style name option, you can form a style. While
the rest of the work are hidden within the system to complete.
In addition, the sweater process design, including many aspects of the preceding section has been
described in detail, but one of the production process is the design of the designer into a real one
step in the same time, the process is a single machine on the machine weaving The basis of the
piece, therefore, the correctness of a single process will directly affect the weaving out of the
clothing and design style size specifications are consistent, thus affecting the efficiency and
efficiency of production.
Production process to know the production of various parts of the size of the size, density,
organizational structure and calculation formula [15]. The main design steps are shown in Figure
3-1.
 At the same time, in the process of writing a single key on the size of the site, so that workers
when weaving for reference. These design methods are to determine the theoretical and
practical production, from the user as the starting point, the purpose is to improve the practicality
of the software.

3.2 knitting cross-edged intelligent design system modeling process

In the design of the system, we use VC6.0 as the platform, using the computer C + + programming
language can be a style design and production process of a single program. The simulation of
knitting knitting mainly includes the following aspects:

Sweater style Sweater style The shape of the clothing

(Including specification Including specification size

size)

Transverse dimension of × Crosswise /10 Theory of the number of

garment cm lateral needle clothing

Longitudinal dimension of × Dense (turn) Theory of the longitudinal

garment cm rotation of clothing

The actual transverse needle

number of the garment
The distribution of the slash
and curve parts of the Weaving operation process
garment map
The actual longitudinal
rotation of the garment

Weaving operation of a
single
3.2.1 style design modeling
In real life, sweater style design is mainly concentrated in the collar, sleeve, the predecessor of
the design, which collar, sleeve, , H-type predecessor, etc., now with collar collar in the apricot
collar, for example, modeling.

Collar design, the key is how to follow the collar in real life, in a certain proportion of the narrow
modeling. In the modeling of the collar is the number of curves and straight lines, and for the
apricot collar, you can use eight curves and two straight lines to simulate the apricot collar. Draw
the curve of the program statement is:
POINT p0, p1; float k;
P1.x = 340; p1.y = 160; k = -1;
Spl2 (p0, p1, k, pDC);
By determining the coordinates and curvature of two points, as well as the calculation method,
you can draw the corresponding curve, different curves with different coordinates and curvature
to achieve. Draw a straight line of the program statement:
PDC-> MoveTo (x-10, y + 10);
PDC-> LineTo (x-20, y + 12);
Determine the coordinates of the two points to determine a straight line.

3.2.2 Process single production modeling

Production process is the use of the corresponding single formula, access to different process
data, and support can be seen in the framework of the front part of the film, after the pieces,
sleeve pieces need to use the needle number, speed and other data.
3.3 Determination of the formula
Wool sweater knitting process calculation is based on the finished product specifications of
sweater, according to the product style, organizational structure and size of the various parts of
the formula to determine the various parts of the needle, the number of revolutions and
retractable needle number. Therefore, the calculation of the formula to determine the computer
to complete the important part of the calculation process.
3.3.1 Wool sweater shirt before the various parts of the calculation method
1. Chest width
(1) Chest width = (width of chest width + width of back fold - difference of elasticity) * Transverse
density / 10 + stitch number * 2.
After the fold generally take 1-1.5cm (both sides of the total), the elastic difference between the
general take 0-1cm, pendulum slit consumption is generally about 0.5cm, into the needle
number, fine machine number 2-4 needle, rough machine number 1 -3 pin. PA is the transverse
density and PB is the longitudinal density
(2) the width of the stitching cardigan chest width = (chest width + back fold width - placket
width) * Transverse density / 10 +2 (pendulum slit + upper door sewing consumption).
(3) with placket cardigan width chest stitch number = (width of the chest width + width after the
fold - placket width) * horizontal density / 10 +2 (pendulum stitching plus consumption + sewing
thread).
2. Clothing length
(1) hem length of ribs for the total length of clothing = (clothing length - hem length of the rib +
measurement difference) * longitudinal change into the number of revolutions / 10 + shoulder
loss. Measuring the difference generally take 0.5cm or so; shoulder joint consumption and other
longitudinal joints of the same consumption, generally about 0.5cm, into a rotation of 1-3;

Fabric type Number of Converted into

rows the number of knitting

Qibian, semi-Qibian, double- One to one Rotation = 1 *

rib, tubular, three-fabric reverse, row longitudinal density
double rib air layer

Weft-pin, rib, Siping, three- One to two Rotation = 1/2 *

fabric positive and so on rows longitudinal density

Rib air layer and so on Three to Revolution = 3/4 *

four rows longitudinal density

Table 3-1 Conversion of longitudinal density and knitting speed

(2) the number of revolutions around the distribution:

① flat shoulder and cut copy needle varieties: the former than the former length 1-1.5cm.

② flat sleeve oblique shoulder (back shoulder) Needle varieties: the number of revolutions
before and after the basic equal.

③ oblique sleeve varieties: the general back body than the previous long 1.5-6cm.

(3) garment hem hem length of the total number of revolutions = (clothing length + fold length +
measurement difference) * longitudinal change into the number of revolutions / 10 + shoulder
seam consumption + hem side seam consumption.
3. Shoulder Width:
Shoulder Width * Needle Width * Shoulder Width * PA / 10 * Shoulder Width Correction * Upper
Sleeve Crevice * 2 (2) Shoulder Width Needle Number = Front Width Needle Number - * 2.
Shoulder width correction value, also known as shoulder and elbow correction value,
generally take 95% -97%.
Cardigan: (Shoulder placket) Shoulder Width = (Shoulder Width - Placket Width) * PA / 10 +
(Upper Sleeve Stitch + Upper Cardstitch Sewing) * 2.
4. Hanging shoulder:
Front and rear body hanging shoulder total revolutions = (hanging shoulder size * 2 - geometric
difference) * PB (turn) / 10 + shoulder joint consumption * 2.
Geometric difference generally take 2-3cm. The calculation formula for the number of
revolutions above the shoulder is: (Sleeve width + correction factor) * PB (rev) / 10 Correction
factor General Take 6-7cm. The number of revolutions above the shoulder is equal to the number
of revolutions above the back of the shoulder minus the length of the back (1.5-6cm).
Front Shoulder Rotation = Front / Rear Shoulder Shoulder Total Turns / 2 + Shoulder Skew / 2 *
PB (Turn) / 10.
Shoulder shoulder slant shoulder products take 1-1.5cm, flat shoulder oblique shoulder
oblique shoulder products, men's shirt for the 8-10cm, 7-9cm for women's shirt, 5-7cm for the
children's shirt.
The number of needles before the end of the shoulder = (chest wide needle number - shoulder
width before the number of needles) / 2.
Front shoulder hanging needle rotation:
(1) the front of the shoulder to close the needle rotation speed = needle length * PB (turn) / 10.
(2) the front of the shoulder to close the needle rotation speed = front and rear body hanging
shoulder total revolutions * 1/5.
Needle length male shirt for the 7-10cm, women's shirt for the 8-12cm, 5-7cm for the children's
shirt.
The number of forefoot hanging shoulder = (chest wide needle number - shoulder width before
the number of needles) / each time the number of needles to each side. General thick fabric per
side to receive 2-pin, thin fabric each time to close 2-3 pins. If this pin number is not an integer,
can be taken to solve sub-stitch. The method commonly used in segmented pin allocation is
"patch allocation method", "transformation distribution method", "program distribution
method". Forefoot hanging shoulder the following revolutions = forefathers clothing long
revolution - predecessor to hang shoulder turn.
5. Front wide and deep collar.
Needle Width:
(1) Collar Collar Needle = (Front Collar Width + Collar Width * 2 - Collar Width) * PA / 10.
Collar width of the width of 1-3cm, collar width for the file size, under normal circumstances,
before and after the collar width of the approximate size of the same.
(2) cardigan collar wide stitch number = (front collar width + collar width * 2 - placket width - the
width of the two collar edge seam) * PA / 10.
Under normal circumstances, before and after the neck width of the approximate size of the
same. For the shirt front of the film for the concave potential neckline style, the collar width is
generally: male shirt 13-17cm, blouse 12-16cm, children's shirt 10-14cm, V to receive a small
value, round neck, Large value. (Such as the word collar, etc.), the collar width of its clothing is
generally 23-27cm or so.
Collar deep revolution:
(1) round neck collar deep revolutions = (collar depth specifications + collar Luo Kuan + straight
after the collar deep + before and after the length difference size) * PB (turn) / 10.
(2) V collar deep revolutions = (collar depth specifications - measured factors + straight after the
collar deep before and after the length of the difference between the size) * PB (turn) / 10.
Measurement factors, V-neck cardigan take 1cm, V-neck pullover to take 0, straight after the
collar is deep after the collar collar potential, generally 0-3cm. Other collar type collar depth,
according to its specific method of measuring the depth of collar to consider.
6. Pocket:
(1) Pocket wide needle number = pocket width size * PA (turn) / 10.
(2) the height of the bag inlaid yarn turn = pocket deep size * PB (turn) / 10 + pocket gap
consumption.
7. Hem rib:
(1) 1 + 1 the number of rows of ribs row pin = (chest width needle number - fast release pin
number * 2) / 2.
Fast release needle (also known as the needle, Happy Valley needle), generally take 2-3 pins on
each side, commonly used 1 +1 * (2-3) said. Fast release pin is usually used for hem rib, cuff rib
and fabric junction, mainly for the release of fabric seam joints at the joints.
(2) 2 + 2 Rib Pitch Pin number = (width of the needle width - the number of fast-release needle
* 2) / 3.
(3) Rotation of hem rib = (rib length - idling length) * hem rib longitudinal density / 10.

3.3.2 wool sweater underwear after the various parts of the calculation method
1. Chest width
(1) Chest width = (width of chest width + width of back fold - difference of elasticity) * Transverse
density / 10 + stitch number * 2
(2) cardigan chest width needle number = (chest width dimension - back fold width) * Transverse
density / 10 +2 (swing gap consumption).
After the fold generally take 1-1.5cm (both sides of the total), the elastic difference between the
general take 0-1cm, pendulum slit consumption is generally about 0.5cm, into the needle
number, fine machine number 2-4 needle, rough machine number 1 -3 pin. PA is the transverse
density and PB is the longitudinal density.
2. Length with the former film
After the neck width of the needle number = (back collar size + collar width * 2 - edge width of
the two sides of the collar width) * PA (turn) / 10.
3. Back shoulder width
(1) Shoulder Width Needle Width * Shoulder Width * PA / 10 * Shoulder Width Correction *
Upper Sleeve Crevice * 2.
(2) the number of needles after the shoulder width = the number of needles after the chest -
back shoulder hanging shoulder * 2 each side.
4. Hanging shoulder:
(1) the number of hanging body back shoulder = front and rear body shoulder to shoulder the
total number of revolutions / 2-shoulder gradient / 2 * PA (turn) / 10.
(2) the back shoulder hanging shoulder each side of the number of stitches = (back width chest
stitches - shoulder width after the number of needles) / 2.
Back shoulder hanging needle revolutions: Under normal circumstances, the body hanging
shoulder shoulder closure than the previous income of less than 1-2 needles. That is less 2-6 turn.
(3) the number of back shoulder hanging shoulder = (back chest width needle number - back
shoulder width of the number of pins) / each time the number of needles to each side. When the
calculation of the number of fractions received for the decimal, can be used to solve sub-stitch.
(4) the back shoulder hanging shoulder rotation number = back shoulder turn - back shoulder
hanging needle to turn.
(5) back shoulder each time the number of revolutions of the shoulder = back shoulder hanging
needle to turn the number of (the number of posterior shoulder hanging shoulder -1).
(6) The following turn the number of hanging shoulder = after the total length of clothing - turn
the number of back shoulder - after the needle to the number of revolutions.
5. After the shoulder to close the needle
(1) The number of needles after the shoulder (each side) = (back shoulder width needle - after
the number of needle neck) / 2.
(2) The number of revolutions of the back shoulder = the length of the needle after the shoulder
* PB (turn) / 10.
(3) the number of shoulder after the shoulder = (shoulder width after the needle - the number of
needle-neck) / each time the number of needles received on both sides.
6. Hem rib
(1) 1 + 1 the number of rows of ribs row pin = (chest width needle number - fast release pin
number * 2) / 2.
Fast release needle (also known as the needle, Happy Valley needle), generally take 2-3 pins on
each side, commonly used 1 +1 * (2-3) said. Fast release pin is usually used for hem rib, cuff rib
and fabric junction, mainly for the release of fabric seam joints at the joints.
(2) 2 + 2 Rib Pitch Pin number = (width of the needle width - the number of fast-release needle *
2) / 3.
(3) Rotation of hem rib = (rib length - idling length) * hem rib longitudinal density / 10.
3.3.3 The calculation method and steps of the sleeve
1. Sleeve Length:
(1) Sleeve Sleeve Long Sleeve Rotation = (Sleeve Length - Cuff Rib Length) * P'B (Turn) / 10 +
Sleeve Crevice.
Usually the sleeve transverse than the body transverse more than 0-3 coils, and longitudinal
dense than the body longitudinal dense 1-6 coil to meet the requirements. P'A, P'B, respectively,
said the sleeves of the cross-product and dense.
(2) Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Rotation = (Sleeve Length - Cuff Rib Length - 1/2 Collar Width - Collar
Width) * P'B (Rotate) / 10 + Sleeve Crevice.
(3) Sleeve width stitch number = Sleeve width size * 2 * P'A / 10 + Sleeve seam allowance * 2.
(4) Sleeve wide stitch number = 2 * (hanging shoulder size - sleeve deviation) * P'A / 10 + sleeve
side seam consumption * 2.
(5) sleeve deviation of men and women in general take 2-3cm shirt, children take 1-1.5cm.
(6) Sleeve Hill stitch number = (formerly hanging shoulder swing shoulder rotation shoulder
number of the number of shoulder-back shoulder joint consumption * 2) / P'B (turn) * P'A
Number of stitches.
2. Sleeve (sleeves hanging body) Needle:
(1) The number of cuff-receiving pin = (sleeve width needle number - the number of sleeves hills
needle) / each time the number of needles received on both sides.
Sleeve to close the needle rotation: the flat-sleeved products, generally take the same or close
to the front and back shoulder to shoulder the average number of revolutions of the needle; for
oblique sleeve products, usually with the back shoulder hanging above the same or close to the
number of revolutions .
3. Cuff Rib:
(1) Number of cuffs: Cuff size * P'A / 10 * 2 + Sleeve seams * 2.
General cuff size men's shirt for the 10-13cm, women's shirt for the 9-12cm, 8-10cm for the
children's shirt. Cuff size if special requirements, you need to be determined according to specific
requirements.
(2) 1 + 1 cuff ribs row pin number = the number of cuffs pin / 2.
(3) 2 +2 cuff ribs row pin number = cuffs pin number / 3.
Cuff rib speed = (cuff rib length - from the mouth of idle length) * cuff rib longitudinal (turn) / 10.
4. Casing release pin allocation:
(1) The number of needles = (sleeve width needle number - the number of cuffs pin) / 2 - fast
release pin on each side.
Fast release needle generally take 2-3 needles, often using a transfer of a needle, and even put
2-3 times.
Number of stitches: Number of stitches: 2 Number of stitches per side.
Number of needles = number of needles - number of cuffs.
Sleeve put the total number of revolutions = Sleeve rotation - Sleeve to close the number of
revolutions - Sleeve wide swing at the number.
Sleeve wide flat swing at the turn of the general 3-5cm.
(2) the number of sets of each piece of the sleeve pin = the total number of pins put the needle
turn the number of / needle number.
5. Calculation method of blank for lower machine
(1) under the machine blank length = total number of blanks / rough longitudinal (turn) / 10 + rib
length of the machine.
(2) Rib length = ribbed knitting rotation / rib rough rough (turn) / 10 + idle length.
(3) under the machine blank width (cm) = rough row needle / rough cross / 10.

3.3.4 Wool sweater attachment process calculation method

(1) the number of collar collar collar collar circumference * * * / 10 + seam cross-consumption.
The perimeter of the collar can be approximated by its geometry, or it can be actually measured
on the collar model.
Commonly used collar collar pin number calculation method:
(2) round collar pin number = round neck circumference * round neck transverse density / 10 +
slit consumption.
(3) V-necked pullover stitch number = (collar size * 2 + collar width + collar width) * tie cross / 10
+ stitch consumption.
(4) flat lapel pin collar collar circumference * flat flat cross / 10.
(5) shoulder strap with the number of needles = (hanging shoulder size * 2 + potential correction
factor) * hanging shoulder strap cross / 10.
The potential correction factor is typically 1-2 cm.
(6) V-neck cardigan long placket = (length * 2 + collar width + placket width + seam loss) * (1 +
placket with shrinkage rate).
The placket (full needle rib) retraction rate of about 8%.
(7) rib bag width (two) = (bag width * 2 + sewing consumption) * (1 + bag shrinkage rate).
Bag with retraction rate of about 7%.
(8) Attachment number of revolutions = Attachment length * Attachment longitudinal (turn) / 10
+ slit consumption.

4 computer implementation
For CAD technology, that is, computer-aided design, whether it is style design or production
process, the most critical is that if the computer to achieve these functions, then talk about a
detailed description of sweater computer-aided design is how to achieve.

4.1 design of the computer design

Style design content a lot, but the need to achieve the computer code is almost the same, and
now the collar collar of the collar as an example to elaborate on the computer implementation:
Step 1: define two points p0, p1, and give the curvature k;
Step 2: Given the coordinates of two points, according to the different curvature, making the
resulting arc different, get different eight curve lines;
Step 3: Draw two lines for a given start and end point;
Step 4: Determine a point on the image and display the word "apricot collar" at this point;
Step 5: obtaining an image of the apricot collar.

4.2 The production of a single computer to achieve

The importance of single production process is self-evident, the following describes the
production process of a single computer to achieve:
Step 1: Define two points, according to the given two points of different coordinates, the process
of drawing a single frame;
Step 2: Define two points, give the curvature, draw the front piece, the back piece, sleeve image;
Step 3: According to various calculation methods and formulas, access to the appropriate data,
and displayed in the front piece,
After the image of the garment and sleeves. The data includes needle number, revolution
number, length, width and so on;
Step 4: draw a table for the display of the size of each part of the data, the data displayed as
metric;
Step 5: to determine the different points in the image, used to display different text and its data,
such as: style name, collar type, the former clothing long turn;
Step 6: Get the image and data.

4.3 fine step by step calculation

Fine step-by-step calculation of a lot of content, but also, and style design, the code used are
similar, the following is the width of the code:
Step 1: will have a good definition of chest width and other global variables assigned to the
calculation of chest width of the data in the local variables;
Step 2: Call up the corresponding window, according to different needs, you can always modify
the function of the local variable values;
Step 3: call the calculation of all aspects of chest width of the data calculation method, the
corresponding data, such as
Chest width needle number;
Step 4: the local variable data to the global variable.
4.4 standard definition of the computer implementation
The standard definition of the computer implementation code is:
Step 1: refresh the data;
Step 2: According to eight different models of women, with the code to determine the
corresponding overall high, upper body length, arm length;
Step 3: According to the seven different types of women's coat, with the code to determine the
corresponding bust, neck circumference, the total shoulder width
Step 4: Call up the required window
5 Summary
5.1 Completed work
In this paper, the principle, method, structure, performance and realization of CAD system design
of sweater are discussed in detail. The main features of the system are as follows:
(1) the use of computer-aided sweater style design, breaking through the traditional design ideas,
the style renderings and finished dimension drawing together, the size of the change in style can
be reflected in real-time, so that designers can intuitive To the style and size selection of
correctness, reduce design blindness, improve the system's practicality and flexibility.
(2) there is always a difference between theoretical and actual production, therefore, in order to
improve the practicality of the system, the process of production data and formulas are collected
from the enterprise.
(3) the system produced by the process of a single user in the form of customary This is to tie in
with the traditional designers and weaving workers work habits, so that the system is easy for
them to accept. The system also provides calculators and other tools to help designers design
complex or custom-style pieces of weaving pattern. These process design methods, taking into
account the actual production practices, but also the use of computer-accurate and fast
calculation of the characteristics of the design of the machine on a single high accuracy, but also
for the actual production.
(4) the system has a Chinese interface help system, user-friendly learning and use.
(5) The system is running under the Chinese Windows xp, fully functional, can basically meet the
requirements of the production of sweaters, while the use of the system design sweater
products, designers can reduce the labor intensity and improve efficiency. The system interface
is friendly, easy to operate.
5.2 The shortcomings of existing and can continue to study the subject
Because of my limited ability and time, this system still has some shortcomings, which need to
be further studied and improved in the future. Its deficiencies are mainly manifested in the
following aspects:
1. This system mainly aims at the weaving process design of the flat knitting machine. For other
ways of knitting sweater, its garment process needs to be further researched and developed.
2. Due to limited time, sweater pattern design and simulation of the function failed to achieve.
3. Because of the time, there is no design of an auxiliary tool that allows designers to design
custom styles.
4. Because of the time, in the single production process, not all the features with the program
code to achieve, especially when choosing the style, only wrote the card program code. So when
in use, the premise is the design process under the cardigan single.
5. Realization of non - standard wool sweater process calculation. In the process of computing
part, although the design of dozens of sweater styles, covering the commonly used style, but still
lack flexibility. If it is a non-standard style (that is, other styles beyond those styles), the process
can not be calculated. The future direction should be the collar, sleeves, shoulders and other
parts of the design changes more independent of the module, the user can any combination of
these modules into the desired style.
6. Increase the type of design. In the style design section, the program provides the basic drawing
pixels (ie, the basic collar, sleeve, body type) is relatively small, although the user can modify the
style on this basis, but ultimately increase the difficulty of operation. Therefore, the basic drawing
elements can be expanded to increase the collar, sleeve, body type of type, to provide users with
more models can refer to.

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