Front

Suspension
Front Suspension Fork Oil & Seal Replacement
• Fork Inspection
• Fork Oil and Seal Replacement What you need before hand
• Needle nose pliers
General Comments • Screw Bit: T5, T6, T30
This section covers a complete teardown of the forks. • Brake cleaner/aerosol solvent
You can renew just the fork oil without a complete • Sockets: 14, 24, 30mm, HW5, 6 & 8
tear down but it isn’t much more to strip and clean it • 19mm Hex adaptor for Spindle Removal
completely and check all the components. The • Old tire or blocks of wood to rest wheel on
Triumph manual says to use 10W oil but you can use • Torque wrench up to 9-65Nm
up to 15W if you want stiffer suspension. The manual • 12mm Allen Key, long one
also says to remove the seat and disconnect the battery • Copper washer 20mm wide, 14mm inner
and although it is good practice it isn’t 100% needed. • ThreeBond 1342 or Threadlock/Lock tight
A step that is included below but isn’t stated in • Fork oil filling syringe
the Triumph manual is to centre the forks after • Triumph Tool T3880131 or two pieces of pipe;
removal. This may be overkill but it is piece of mind 1) 70mm wide, inside diameter of 47mm but an
that the forks are aligned properly to the steering head. inside lip of 54mm and 2) 58mm wide and an
If someone wants to explain to me why this step is not inside diameter of 47mm
needed that would be appreciated. But given that it is • Triumph Tool T3880132 or pipe 60mm wide
good to know that your forks are aligned as they with inside diameter of 47mm
should be I have left those steps in for now.
• Oil seals x2 T2045660
Fork Inspection • Possibly dust seals if perished x2
• Possibly O-rings if perished x2
What you need before hand • Possibly lower and/or upper bushings if warn
• Torch/Good eyes • Wheel stand to keep the bike upright
• A large vice is useful
Steps • Oil pan
1. With the bike on the ground visually examine the • Small square punch
forks. Do this before washing the bike as you • Tap and die set
might clean any oil leaks. Look for severe pitting, • Fork oil 10W or 15W
rust, scratches, and oil leaks, particularly around
the area of the fork (stanchion) that goes into the Steps
larger part of the fork. If there are major pits in the 1. Remove the front brake pads as per the instructions
forks you need to have them re-chromed or fill in the Front Brake Guide: Remove the R-clip with
them with Araldite and smoothed off. needle nose pliers, remove the retaining pin with a
T5 adapter, remove the anti-rattle spring then
2. Check that the forks work. Sit on the bike, press wiggle out the pads. If they are not budging then
the front brake and pump the forks up and down open the lid of the front master cylinder and push
multiple times. They should feel smooth while the caliper pistons back with the brake pads using
depressing and they should not continue to bounce your fingers. If it has been a while since the pads
when you stop. If you notice any of these issues were out they may require a lot of ‘encouragement’.
don’t ride the bike and fix the problem. Clean all parts once removed in brake cleaner.

3. Another step is look at the alignment of the wheel 2. Remove the 4 bolts supporting the two calipers
to the handlebars. They all need to be in a straight using 14mm socket. Don’t let the caliper’s hang, I
line. If the wheels are off centre to the handlebars found a simple solution was to use some elastic
then you will get poor (dangerous) handling. If bands and tie them to the exhaust pipes. Clean the
this is the issue then you will need to centre the calipers using brake cleaner.
forks relative to the wheel, which is outlined
below.
Job Done!

 Front Forks 2

6. With the spindle removed you can raise the bike

from the ground and the wheel will stay on the
ground. Make sure you collect both wheel spacers:
the small one goes on the ABS/wheel speed sensor
side (left side) and the large one goes on the side
without (right side).

3. Loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of the right

fork using HW6 socket.

7. Don’t lay the wheel down on the disc brakes! Make

a platform, lean it against a wall or use and old tyre
to rest the wheel on.
4. Lower the bike (or raise slightly if you did the
previous steps with the bike on the ground) so that 8. Remove the 4 fixings holding the mudguard/ brake
the wheel is straight and the wheel is slightly off the cables in place using T30 adapter.
ground.

5. Undo the spindle from the right fork using a 19mm

hex. I found this adapter useful: I could use a 17mm
socket and on the other end was a 19mm Hex.
 Front Forks 3

9. Place some tape (or rag) on the fork tops to stop

them from scratching when you release them. 11. Now slide the fork out, don’t force it as you don’t
Loosen the top yoke fixing using HW8 socket. The want to scratch it on the way out, just easy it gently.
removes the pressure on the top cap making it I hung the indicator off the top yoke with some
easier to loosen. Crack open/loosen the fork top elastic bands.
caps using 24mm socket. This saves you having to
put the forks in a vice later and risk damaging them.

12. Place the fixing holes of the fork into a large soft
jawed vice. With the fork firmly held you need to
10. From this point you can either remove both forks at undo the damper rod bolt using a long 12mm Allen
the same time or complete one side and then do the key socket. It is important you undo this bolt with a
other. I’d recommend completing one side before the very quick hard twist. If you do it slowly the
other, that way you won’t mix parts up. Take note damper rod will just turn inside. If this happens to
(take a picture) of the direction and placement of the you for whatever reason then you can continue take
indicators. Once you have a point of reference loosen the top cap off and stick ‘something’ down to hold
the indicator bracket clamp using HW5 socket and the damper rod. Another alternative is to use an
then the lower yoke using HW6 socket. impact screwdriver and/or heat the bolt before
attempting to undo as this should loosen the
threadlock. Most should undo with a quick hard
flick. With whatever method get an oil pan ready
for when it is removed.
 Front Forks 4

strong encouragement to separate the slight rust on
the inside of the fork cap.

13. With the damper rod bolt and washer removed the
oil will drain out. Pump the fork a few times to help
the oil out further. With most of the oil out you can
now remove the top fork cap using 24mm socket.
Be careful when you do because it is likely to
spring off. A rag over the top may help. Check the
O-ring on it and replace if needed.

14. You should now see the spacer, which can be

removed. Turn the fork upside down and collect the
spring followed by the washer (spring seat). This
will then be followed by the dampener rod. Clean
all parts thoroughly in brake cleaner as you
disassemble to get all the old oil off. 17. Use a small pick, screw driver or better yet a plastic
pick to ease the dust seal out.

15. With the spring out it is a good time to measure the

overall length of the spring and write them down at
the end of the chapter. Both springs should be the
same length and they should not significantly
18. Using a small flat screwdriver, encourage the clip
change over time. If they have they may need
out of it’s holding. When you go to slide off the
replacing. The Triumph manual doesn’t specify a
circlip make sure that the fork is fully compressed
length. You can also get aftermarket springs if you
because this will minimize the risk of scratching the
wish.
part of the inner tube (chrome bit) that slides in and
out of the tube.
16. Remove the chrome cap from the fork leg using
small square punch. I found that a small dent was
unavoidable but possible to bend back. The area to
punch is located on the inside of the fork leg. Mine
required a combination of penetrating fluid and
 Front Forks 5

21. Then slide the washer and upper bush off the top of
the tube. Be very careful not to scrape the inner
tube.

22. The lower bush remains on the inner tube but if you
want to replace it, it will flex off.

23. Finally, collect the oil lock (the bit the damper rod
19. With the circlip out of the way you now need to sits in).
remove the inner tube. With it secured in the voice
give it a quick pull multiple times and eventually
the top bush and seal will be forced out.
1 2

24. With the fork fully dismantled inspect all the parts
for damage and renew any parts if there is an issue.
20. Stand the inner tube upright. Then slide the oil seal
Look for cracks in the fork legs as this indicate
off and place a cut in the top part so you can tell
structural damage and therefore should be replaced.
which way it came off. This helps when installing
Look for damaged bushings. Clean all the parts in
the new seals.
an brake cleaner/ aerosol solvent. Using a tap and
die or wire brush clean off any old thread lock. It
helps to set out all the parts in order. The following
is a guide.

Order: Top cap and o-ring, spacer, spring seat, spring,

damper rod/damper spring/damper rod piston ring, and
finally damper rod bolt with a new copper washer

Order: Chrome cap, dust seal, spring clip, oil seal,

washer, upper bushing, inner tube/lower bushing, oil
lock (damper rod seat) and below is the outer tube
 Front Forks 6

damper rod bolt and using a 12mm long Allen key
screw it in.

Assembly

25. Put some new fork oil on the oil lock and place it
back into the outer tube.

26. Refit the lower bush if you removed it. Either way,
put some clean fork oil on it.

27. Put some clean fork oil on the damper rod, seal 30. In order to do the damper rod bolt up it helps have
and spring and place it into the inner tube. it under pressure. So place the components (spring,
spring seat, spacer and top fork cap) back in the
fork. With the damper rod held in place by the
pressure of the spring you can tighten the dampener
rod bolt to 45Nm. Once torqued remove the top cap
again, spacer, spring seat and spring.

31. Put some new fork oil on the upper bushing and
slide it onto the inner tube. You can put some thin
plastic between the tube and the bushing to reduce
the risk of scratching. But with the inner tube all the
way in and some careful handwork you can get it
on fine.

28. Put the inner tube with the damper rod in it, into the
outer tube.

29. Put a new copper washer on the damper rod bolt,

put some thread lock (or ThreeBond 1342) on the
 Front Forks 7

34. Put some fork oil (Triumph Manual says fork oil
32. With the bush in the tube you now need to seat it. but others like to use red rubber grease) on the lip
For this you need an appropriately sized plastic pipe of the new oil seal (T2045660). Check that it is the
(see dimensions above) or Triumph tool T3880131 right way up, you will be able to compare it to the
(smaller end) to encourage the bush into place. To one you removed, which you should have put a cut
further reduce the risk of scratching place some in the top of upon removal. Again use the small end
grease on the inside of the pipe. Slide it on the inner of the Triumph tool or plastic equivalent to gently
pipe and encourage the bushing into place. The encourage the seal into place. To be extra safe you
sound will change when it is fully in. can put some tape around the edge of the inner tube
to further reduce risk of damage to the oil seal.
When the seat is fully home you will hear the sound
change again.

33. Then slide the washer (lubricated with fork oil)

along the tube and into the outer tube
35. Put the circlip back in place. The Triumph tool (or
plastic pipe) is easier to get the circlip in place
rather than risking using a screwdriver.
 Front Forks 8

38. Now it’s time to put the new oil in. The gap from
the top to the oil should be 106mm when fully
36. Put the dust seal (only need a new one if old is compressed. You have to make sure that the spring,
perished) over the tube and into place. Then drift it spring seat and spacer are not in the inner tube. I
into position using the wider end of the Triumph used a fork oil tool and made the job very simple.
tool (or larger plastic pipe). Set the leg on the tool to 106mm. This works by
sucking in fluid until it reaches that level and will
suck up air. Alternatively you can use a tape
measure to measure down into the fork.

39. Hold the fork upright and slowly pour in the SAW
10W oil until it is at the 106mm line from the top.
37. With the dust seal back on you can then replace the
Make sure you poor it slowly to reduce air bubbles
fork cap. Line up the punch marks to the punch gap
forming in the system. Once a sufficient amount is
so that new punch marks are not made in future.
in pump the forks to circulate the oil. Then check
Carefully slide it over the inner tube. Drift into
the oil level with a tape measure or suck out the
place using the Triumph Tool T3880132 or suitable
extra oil using a suitable tool.
plastic pipe.
 Front Forks 9

40. With the correct amount of oil in, put in the spring
followed by the spring seat and then the spacer.

41. Double check the threads of the top cap are clean.
Put some fork oil on the O-ring and threads of the
top cap. Careful when you compress the spring to
put the cap on that it doesn’t fly off and hit you in
the face. Just do it slow and controlled until the
thread has caught. If it binds at all when doing it up
stop and start again, you don’t want to damage the
fine threads. It doesn’t need to be super tight just
yet so just finger tight will do.

45. Once flush, tighten the bottom yoke clamp sensibly

using HW6 socket.

46. With the fork now firmly held in place by the

bottom yoke you can tighten the top fork cap to
22.5Nm using 24mm socket. It is advised to have a
42. With the top bolt on it is a good idea to pump the rag on the nut to help stop if from damaging the
fork legs 5-6 times again so that the oil is fully surface of the nut.
distributed around the fork. Place a rag on the
ground when you do this so you don’t damage the 47. Now tighten the top yoke fastener to 20Nm using
forks. HW8 socket.

43. Make sure both the top and bottom yoke clamps are 48. Make sure the indicator and its wires are back in
clean before sliding the forks back in. You don’t place as per the photo upon disassembly.
want to scratch the forks from dirty yoke residue. Essentially there is a little grove under the indicator
Some wet and dry sandpaper maybe needed if they bracket that the wire sits in. Make sure it is in there
are very corroded. and not trapped. Now you can repeat the above
process on the other fork from step 10.
44. If ready to reinstall the forks- slide each fork (one at
a time) through the bottom yoke, indicator bracket 49. Now both the forks are back and flush with the top
and up into the upper yoke. Make sure it is flush yoke you want to check that they are equally flush.
with the top yoke. The advantage of doing one fork Do this by briefly re-installing the front axel with
at a time is that you get to make the fork you are the 17mm socket and 19mm adapter, this way you
replacing flush in the same manner of the other will know the forks are equal to one another.
fork. There is some ley way in where they sit but
they key is to have them matching.
 Front Forks 10

50. Reinstall the mudguard and the respective brake
hose clips by screwing in the 4 fixings using T30
screw bit. There isn’t a need to tighten them just yet
as we still need to centre the wheel.

56. Keep the top yoke camps tightened. Now make

sure the bottom yoke pinch bolts and indicator
51. Double check that the top yoke clamps are tight to brackets are loose just a little using a HW6 and
20Nm using the HW8 socket adapter. You don’t HW5 respectively.
want to press on them when centering the fork and
have one pop out. 57. Double check that everything south of the top
yoke bots is loose; bottom yoke bolts,
52. Smear a bit of grease onto the wheel spacers and indicators, mudguard fixings and axel.
put them in place: smaller one on the wheel speed
sensor side (left) and the larger one on the other 58. You can now undo the main steering nut using
(right). 30mm socket. To get to this you may need to
remove your screen if you have one. Also put a
rag over the nut to reduce scratching. These
steps makes everything loose and ready for
adjustment.

53. Lower the bike and forks into place and

maneuver the wheel into place being careful not
to knock the wheel spacers out. Also check that
the wheel speed sensor is back in place sitting
on its lug.

54. Smear some copper grease (just a little bit) on

the front wheel spindle. Slide it in from the right
side of the bike and screw it into the left for 59. Straddle the bike and put one hand on each fork
using 19mm hex/adapter and tighten but don’t top cap. Push down and pump the suspension.
fully tighten it just yet. Don’t do it at an angle, it is important it is in
direct line with the forks. Because of the way
55. With the wheel in place, lower the bike the components are machined this allows
completely into a front wheel chock. everything to centre relative to each other.
 Front Forks 11

Push 64. Lower the bike and maneuver the wheel into
place being careful not to knock the wheel
spacers out. Also check that the wheel speed
sensor is back in place sitting on its lug.

65. Slide the wheel spindle in from the right side of

the bike and screw it into the left for using
19mm hex/adapter and tighten to 65Nm.

60. Now that the forks have been centered you can
progressively tighten everything up. Hold the
fork and tighten the head stock nut until it is
hand tight. Make sure nothing moves in the
process. Then using HW6 tighten the bottom
yoke fasteners. Then go back and tighten the
head stock nut to 65Nm using 30mm socket, the 66. For ABS models- reinstall the shim and ABS
bottom yoke clamps to 27Nm (Storm model sensor using 8mm socket and tighten to 7Nm if
only, 25Nm for standard Thunderbird) using you removed it (but there wasn’t really a need).
HW6 socket, then indicator brackets using Make sure that the cable is clipped back into the
HW5 socket to 9Nm. back of the left fork (right when viewed from
the front of the bike). Once in, check using a
61. Put the bike back onto the lift and remove front feeler gauge that the air gap between the APS
wheel again so you can tighten up the front ring and the sensor is between 0.37-1.25mm.
mudguard properly. I’d like to have tightened
them up earlier but if you do there is a chance
that the forks might not centre properly.
Someone with more knowledge than me may be
able to explain why you can tighten them
earlier, if so I’d be open to learning more.
Remove front spindle and slide the wheel out.

62. Now tighten the front mudguard fixings to

12Nm using T30 screw bit.

63. Put the wheel spaces in place: smaller one on

the wheel speed sensor side (left) and the larger
one on the other (right).

67. Reposition both calipers over the discs and

install the bolts using 15mm socket to 50Nm.
 Front Forks 12

71. Drive slowly down the road and check the
brakes and suspension are working properly
before going out on the open road.

Job Done!

Spring Length Record

Service Date Left Fork Right Fork

68. Reinstall the brake pads, put the anti-rattle

spring in place, put a very small amount of
copper grease onto the thread of the pin and
install it using T5, and finally secure it with a
new R-clip. If the calipers are too far out then
undo the front brake master cylinder reservoir
lid with a Philips screwdriver and push the
caliper back into it’s holding to create more
room.

69. With the brake pads in place on the disc the

right caliper needs to be central to the disc.
Basically there is a small amount of movement
in the fork from left to right. With the pinch
bolts loose push the two forks together and you
will probably see a changing gap between the
fork and the spacer on the right side and the disc
relative to the caliper. You need to push the two
forks together or apart so that the caliper is
central to the disc. But before you do that put

some copper grease onto the pinch bolt threads
and place them into the holes. Keep the caliper
central then screw in the two pinch bolts using
T6 bit to 22Nm.

Not central Central

70. Check that the brakes are working and the

wheel spins properly. If not problems solve- do
the brakes need bleeding, are the brake pads
installed properly and check previous steps.