Understanding your

cat’s behaviour

ESSENTIAL GUIDE 9
It is the very nature and behaviour of cats that makes them
one of the UK’s most popular pets today. Their independence,
playfulness and curiosity are among the traits that make many
cat-lovers melt. By understanding the behaviour the cat has
developed to enable it to thrive in a changing world, we can
learn how to best provide for our cats, meet their needs,
maximise their welfare and ensure long-lasting friendships for
happy cats and owners.

This leaflet explains the normal behaviour of the cat and

suggests some approaches to manage some of the issues that
can occasionally test the owner-cat bond. If you are concerned
by any aspect of your cat’s behaviour, you can look at Cats
Protection’s Essential Guide: Managing your cat’s behaviour,
but it often helps to first consider the cat’s normal behaviour,
needs and motivations.

In order to understand the behaviour and needs of today’s

pet cat, we first need to explore its wild origins. The domestic
cat shares common ancestry with the African wildcat – a shy
cat originating in the Middle East which has many physical
and behavioural similarities with our domestic cat and is still
found today.

Changes in man’s farming systems led the cat to naturally

evolve to become closer to humans around 10,000 years
ago. This is fairly recent ‘domestication’ and with relatively
little human influence over the breeding of specific cats, the
domestic cat still retains many of the behaviours and needs of
its wild counterparts.
African wildcat
The African wildcat lives a solitary lifestyle in a harsh terrain
that has a relatively small concentration of rodent prey, so the
cats are dispersed over a wide area. Each wildcat maintains
a large territory but exhibits many of its normal everyday
behaviours in a safe core area within this territory.

As a carnivore, the wildcat only eats meat and cannot be

vegetarian. It is most active at dusk and dawn when its prey
is active. Hunting episodes are frequent and tiring. Not every
attempt is successful, so it has evolved to hunt before it
becomes hungry. Each ‘catch’ is taken back to the core area
where the cat can eat without threat from larger predators
or rivals.

It does not use many facial expressions to communicate and

leaves a scent profile to mark its territory. Scent marking serves
as a way to communicate with other cats without having to
come into contact with them – reducing the risk of fighting
and injuries.

When faced with a stressful situation, it prefers to make an

escape, after which its stress levels return to normal ie flight
rather than fight.

The African wildcat needs a lot of sleep because of the energy

used during hunting. It will usually choose a safe, elevated
sleeping spot within its core territory. The cat rotates its
sleeping area – this is most likely a means of parasite control –
and will often scratch to maintain its claws when it wakes up.
A wildcat learns to dig and bury the evidence from toileting
at a young age. It will choose a safe, quiet and private area
towards the edge of its territory, away from sites of eating
and drinking to avoid contamination. Where possible, it avoids
drinking from stagnant pools and will choose a drinking source
separate from where it eats and toilets – although most of a
wildcat’s fluid intake comes from eating rodents, which have a
high water content.

Females call when in season and because they have large

territories, males will often travel long distances to find
receptive females. The number of kittens born in a litter
reflects the food availability, so when food sources are low,
few kittens are born. Following birth, kittens need to quickly
learn what is safe and normal in their environment. Surviving
kittens will find their own territory with sufficient resources
once old enough.
Domestic cats
With its common ancestry, the domestic cat species shares
many similarities with the African wildcat. Each cat is an
individual and while all cats share some inherent needs, both
genetics and previous experience will play a great part in
shaping their behaviour.

Perhaps one of the most striking differences between

individual cats is their sociability to people. There are two
recognised groups: those that are feral – wild – and those
that are non-feral – pet cats, depending on their level of
fear towards people. The domestic cat needs to learn to like
people during its early weeks. Positive, gentle interactions
and handling by humans when kittens are between two to
eight weeks of age leads to cats which usually enjoy human
interaction and are friendly pets. Kittens which have not
been socialised during their early weeks will generally remain
fearful of people and the domestic environment and become
feral cats.
Feral cats
While some feral cats retain their solitary nature, in certain
situations, feral cats can live in groups called colonies. Feral
cats within a colony live in harmony with one another if
they recognise the shared group scent and they are able to
find sufficient resources such as food, water, toileting and
sleeping areas.

They engage in social interactions such as mutual grooming

and rubbing. These activities keep the ‘group scent’ topped
up, allowing recognition. Despite living as a group, they will
continue to hunt, eat and toilet alone. Feral cats within a
colony tend to see off any ‘stranger’ cats intruding in the
territory. For more information on feral cats, see
Cats Protection’s E
 ssential Guide: Feral cats.

Cats as companion animals

It is important to remember that a cat’s requirements are not
human-based, so understanding their needs can enhance our
own relationship with them. It is very rewarding to see things
from their point of view to make a positive change in their
welfare. Ensure you provide a stimulating
and safe environment and provide
your cat with opportunities to
express their natural behaviour.
Solitary
Like the African wildcat, pet cats have an inherent desire to
maintain a territory as solitary hunters. However, they can
live well together in some circumstances, as long as the cats
perceive each other to be in the same social group and they
have sufficient resources provided so there is no competition.

Many groups of cats living in the same household have not

evolved naturally, but have been introduced as unrelated
kittens or adults. Consequently they may not actually perceive
each other to be in the same social group, but under stress will
tolerate the presence of others, especially for a particularly
valued resource such as food or fuss from an owner. Cats are
in the same social group if they sleep touching one another
and spend time rubbing and grooming each other. Cats in one
social group should be provided with separate resources – eg
food, water, toilet and resting areas – from those in a different
social group, even if they all live in the same house. In fact,
it may even be best to feed those in the same social group in
different areas to avoid the risk of relationship breakdown.

Introducing a new cat should be done very slowly in the hope

that they will ultimately perceive each other to be in the
same social group, or at least peacefully cohabit because they
have been provided with separate resources to avoid conflict
and competition. Each new relationship is dependent on the
individual cats and how their early encounters were managed.

Just because a cat has lived happily with a cat before, it

does not mean that it will take to a new feline companion.
Unfortunately there is no guarantee, even with careful
management, that the introduction of unfamiliar cats will
work out. There are some cats that are unlikely to ever
perceive other felines as anything but a threat and may
prefer to live on their own. For more information, see Cats
Protection’s Essential Guide: Cats living together.

Many cats have learned to love the company of people and

will often rub up against us for a fuss and a stroke and to place
their comforting scent on us. It is a wonderful feeling when a
cat chooses to engage with you. For more information on how
cats interact with people, see Cats Protection’s Essential Guide:
Cats and people.

Hunters
Domestic cats are still programmed to hunt and this activity is
still not linked to hunger. Each part of the hunting activity –
the stalk, pounce, play and kill – releases feel-good hormones
called endorphins. Cats need to have frequent successful
‘kills’ to avoid frustration and are most likely to hunt at dawn
and dusk. Some cats are prolific hunters, while others catch
nothing at all – it varies from individual to individual. Like
their wild ancestors, those which do hunt will often bring their
prey back to their home, or core area. For more information
on hunting, see Cats Protection’s Essential Guide: Indoor and
outdoor cats.

Play is an excellent outlet for cats to exhibit this natural

behaviour. Younger cats will be happy to play 10 times a day or
more. You can learn more in Cats Protection’s E  ssential Guide:
Caring for your cat.

Older cats will love playing three or four times a day, but the
type of play may need to be adapted to suit their needs and
level of mobility. For more information see Cats Protection’s
Essential Guide: Elderly cats.
Eating can be a vulnerable activity. Try placing food bowls
slightly away from the wall, so that your cat can eat with its
back to it when they eat. Being able to view their surroundings
can help them feel safer.

Cats in the wild spend a lot of their time on frequent hunting

expeditions, catching up to 12 small rodents per day. In
comparison, our pet cats are given bowls of food, so a meal
doesn’t take long to eat or make use of their great senses.
Create interest at meal times by hiding food around the house
for your cat to search out. Make a pyramid out of cardboard
toilet roll tubes and hide food in the tubes, or use a puzzle
ball or feeder. For more information see Cats Protection’s
Essential Guide: Feeding and obesity.
Communication systems
The cat has limited visual social signals and facial expressions
and so can be difficult to ‘read.’ Instead, it still relies on scent
communication, marking its territory and leaving distant scent
signals that last for some time. This allows it to communicate
to other cats as well as leave signals and warnings for itself.
Cats will rub against items in the home to lay their scent which
helps them feel safe and secure. It is worth bearing in mind
that modern cleaning means we may be constantly removing
this scent from the cat’s environment, which can cause some
anxiety and disorientation. Modern lifestyles also mean we
bring new scents into the environment.
Cats will often spray the edges of their territory. Usually this
is outdoors, but they may spray indoors – often at entry or
exit points, such as windows or doorways. A cat that sprays
indoors is leaving itself a warning reminder – it is indicating
that something is wrong. This behaviour can be seen in any cat
– male or female, whether neutered or not.
Domestic cats scratch to keep their claws in good condition and
to mark their territory. A scratching post will provide exercise,
claw maintenance and a focal point for your cat to express this
natural behaviour – it will help protect your furniture too. Cats
like to stretch and scratch after they wake up, so try placing
the scratch post near their bed. A good scratching post has the
following features:

• a strong sturdy base so the cat can lean against the post
without it wobbling
• tall enough that the cat can stretch fully
• a vertical thread that allows the cat to scratch downwards
Avoidance of stress and conflict
Cats are all individuals and some may be more affected by
stress than others. The domestic cat still needs the opportunity
to run, hide and climb when stressed. Pet cats will often
find appropriate places at home – such as in a cupboard or
underneath the bed – and are best not disturbed when in
these sanctuaries to allow their stress levels to come down.
They will only fight if there is no other option available, or
they have learned from previous experiences that this has
a positive outcome for them. Cats will use scent to try to
avoid conflict.

It is important to always provide your cat with an easily

accessible place to hide which will help to make them feel
safe and secure. There are many things that can cause a
cat to feel anxious or fearful: fireworks, building work in
the house, unfamiliar visitors, or conflict with other cats. A
hiding place can be something as simple as a cardboard box
on its side, or upside down, with large holes for access. Or
you could purchase an igloo style cat bed. Try not to overly
fuss a cat which is showing signs of fear, as it may reinforce
the fearfulness.

Cats feel safer if they can view their surroundings from a

height. Provide some higher spaces for your cat to relax,
such as shelves or the top of a wardrobe. Ensure the cat can
access these, for example by placing a stool nearby. Extra
consideration should be given to elderly cats. For more
information see Cats Protection’s E ssential Guide: Elderly cats.
Sleep
Cats usually sleep for about 16
hours a day, on and off, and
often prefer to rotate their
chosen sleeping area. When
a cat falls asleep on our lap,
we often don’t realise they’ve
drifted off and continue to
stroke them. Most cats that are woken suddenly by their owner
stroking them will realise what is happening. However, others
can feel understandably sleepy and disorientated and may
react defensively to a perceived threat. If your cat is resting
on your lap, it’s best to stop stroking them so that they can
sleep peacefully.

Toileting
Cats learn to associate toileting with the material used when
they were a kitten and generally still prefer to use a fine grain
litter. If they were only exposed to one type as a kitten, they
are less likely to want to use a different litter consistency as an
adult. They will dig and bury deposits and prefer to use a site
away from where they eat and drink, in quiet, private areas
away from other cats.

Your cat may prefer to go inside in a litter tray or outside

in the garden – it varies between individuals. Even if your
cat toilets outside, it’s a
good idea to keep a litter
tray indoors for those
moments when they are
caught short!
It’s best to have one litter tray per cat, plus one extra if
possible, all in different quiet locations – especially if your cats
are kept indoors. Cats don’t like using dirty or soiled trays so
make sure the litter tray is cleaned at least once a day.

If your cat toilets outside, provide them with their own

desirable toilet area in your garden, in a secluded, sheltered
area of well-dug, fine soil. Add some cat litter to encourage
them to toilet there. Make sure it’s dug over regularly to remain
hygienic and allow the soiled material to decompose naturally.

Being creatures of habit, once a cat has a preferred toileting

site, they will continue to use it unless something causes them
to become averse to it. A lack of privacy and problems with
access or cleanliness will cause them to look for another place.

For more information, see Cat’s Protection’s Essential Guide:

Managing your cat’s behaviour.

Water
Cats tend to avoid stagnant pools and often prefer a moving
water source away from food bowls and litter trays.
They also like wide brimmed containers with a
reflective surface. Some cats choose to drink
from a natural water source outside because
they dislike the taste of chlorinated water or the
taint from a plastic bowl. Even in these situations,
fresh water should still always be available
indoors in case their outdoor source dries
up or becomes inaccessible. Others prefer
a dripping tap, or to dip their paw into
the water and drink off their paw.
Reproduction
Cats can become sexually active from four months of age.
Females will call when in season and with large territory sizes,
males will travel long distances to find receptive females. With
the provision of food and shelter and other key resources, cats
can be prolific breeders and one female cat – queen – and
her offspring can be responsible for 20,000 kittens in just
five years.

Any kittens born need to experience as many positive

experiences as possible during their first two to eight weeks
of age for them to consider these safe and normal in future,
enabling them to become happy pets. Cats Protection
recommends neutering by around four months of age to
prevent unwanted litters.

Individuals
Individual cats have different characters and this contributes to
their appeal. Their differences are due to a variety of different
factors and are influenced by:

• genetics
• stress levels of the mother when pregnant
• learning during the early part of life, including:
• experiences during their socialisation period
• behaviour learned from siblings – such as how to play
• behaviour learned from the mother – eg how to deal with
frustration, such as during weaning
• later learning experiences, including:
• a cat developing an association between its own
behaviour and the consequence of that behaviour. For
example, miaowing leads to my owner letting me in, so I
will miaow when I want to be let in
 • a cat developing an association between something that
originally meant nothing to it and associating it with
meaning something new. For example, a cat learns that
the sound of a tin opener means they are about to be fed,
so will come running when they hear the tin opener being
taken out of a drawer
• medical conditions
• current environment

The indoor life

Many cats will enjoy going outside for part of the day and
this gives them the opportunity to investigate new things
and make use of their fantastic senses. It also provides mental
stimulation and reduces stress. If you are keeping cats indoors,
extra care is needed to avoid boredom, frustration or the
development of behaviour problems – see Cats Protection’s
Essential Guide: Indoor and outdoor cats.

Interacting with your cat

and body language
Cats like quite brief, low intensity but frequent interactions.
When cats that get along greet each other, it tends to be a
brief head rub. Unfortunately, humans are the opposite! Our
interactions are generally less frequent, but when we have
them, they are generally of high intensity and prolonged. This
can sometimes be a source of confusion between cats and
their owners.

Cats can get quite stimulated or excited when they are playing
or in ‘hunting mode’ and it’s generally not advisable to touch
any cat in this state. Even when touching a calm, relaxed cat,
there are many places on the body that are quite vulnerable or
sensitive. While there are always exceptions, as a general rule,
many cats don’t like to be touched in these places:

• belly – which for some cats can include their sides and chest
• paws
• under legs – ie armpits
• legs – trousers – back legs
• stroking the fur against the normal direction
• bottom half of back – particularly if stiff or painful
• base of tail
• genital area

Learning to understand your cat by reading their body

language is a fascinating part of owning a cat and it can
improve the relationship between you. Cats can be very subtle
in their body language and can be difficult to ‘read’ as they
have not evolved the many visual communication signals that
are seen in social species, like dogs. Spend time watching your
cat – see how they move and interact with their environment,
their facial expressions, body postures and vocalisations in
different situations – and you can start to build a picture of
how your cat is feeling. Here are a few common body postures
to give you clues about your cat’s mood:

Remember, owners have a legal duty of care to provide

for their cat’s needs, which includes the need to express
normal behaviour – see Cats Protection’s Essential Guide:
Cats and the law.
Body language Cat’s mood How to interact
with your cat

Tail up and Relaxed, Let them sniff

relaxed, ears friendly cat your hand and if
facing forwards, showing you are familiar
often walking greeting with the cat,
towards you. behaviour. you may want to
stroke their head
and along their
back.

Often starts Relaxed, Cats that roll on

with a tail up friendly cat to their side or
greeting, rubs showing back and expose
its head and greeting their belly are
side of their behaviour, communicating
body around often seen after that they feel
your legs and a period of relaxed enough
sometimes may separation. in the person’s
roll over onto presence to
their side to expose such
show their belly. a vulnerable
area. The best
response is
to verbally
acknowledge the
cat’s greeting,
rather than
stroke or tickle
their tummy.
Body language Cat’s mood How to interact
with your cat

Lying Relaxed and If they are

outstretched contented awake, let them
on their side cat. Some cats sniff your hand
with their paws may sleep in and then give
stretched out in this position, them a brief rub
front of them, especially if they on the head. If
often with a have found a they look sleepy,
sleepy look on sunny spot! then leave them
their face as to get some rest.
their eyes may
be half closed or
blinking.

In a crouched Cat is anxious Make sure they

position with and may be have an escape
tail tucked looking for a route and
around or under place to hide, to somewhere that
their body and run away and they can hide
muscles tense. get up high. and get up high
Their eyes may if they want
be darting about to. It is best to
and ears back or leave them alone
moving listening and not try to
to sounds interact with
around them. them.
 Body language Cat’s mood How to interact
with your cat

In the Very fearful Make sure they

‘Halloween cat’ cat that feels have an escape
stance with an threatened or route and a
arched back, cannot escape. hiding place or
bushy tail and They may hiss a high spot to
fur standing or spit as a retreat to. Do
up to make warning to not approach or
themselves stay back. Be touch a cat that
look bigger. careful as they is feeling fearful.
Their eyes may attack
look huge as defensively as a
their pupils are last resort.
dilated and ears
are flattened
against their
head.

For further information, please see Cats Protection’s 

Essential Guide: Managing your cat’s behaviour.

Learn more about your cat online!

Take a look at our free interactive tool to help you
understand cats’ origins and their behaviour within our
homes. http://learnonline.cats.org.uk/content/ufo
 ESSENTIAL GUIDES VETERINARY GUIDES
1 Caring for your cat 84001 1 Arthritis 83201
2 Welcome home 84002 2 Feline Lower Urinary Tract
3 Moving house 84003 Disease (FLUTD) 83202
4 Feeding and obesity 84004 3 Diabetes 83203
5 Keeping your cat safe 84005 4 Itchy cats and skin disorders
83204
6 Neutering – family planning
for felines 84006 5 Feline Parvovirus (FPV) 83205
7 When to let go 84007 6 Kidney or renal disease 83206
8 Microchipping 84008 7 Cats with disabilities 83207
9 Understanding your cat’s 8 Hypertension 83208
behaviour 84009 9 Feline Immunodeficiency Virus
10 Managing your cat’s (FIV) and Feline Leukaemia
behaviour 84010 Virus (FeLV) 83209
11 Cats living together 84011 10 Feline Coronavirus (FCoV) and
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
12 Indoor and outdoor cats 84012 83210
13 Cats and the law 84013 11 Heart murmurs and heart
14 Cats and people 84014 disease 83211
15 Caring for your kitten 84015 12 Hyperthyroidism 83212
16 Elderly cats 84016 13 Feline asthma 83213
17 Feral cats 84017 14 Teeth and oral health 83214
18 Pregnant cats, birth and care 15 Fleas and other parasites
of young kittens 84018 83215
16 Cat flu 83216
17 Infectious disease and
vaccination 83217
18 Digestive disorders – vomiting
and diarrhoea 83218
19 You and your vet 83219
20 Cats and pregnant women –
Toxoplasmosis 83220

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