Principles of

Attic Ventilation
A comprehensive course for understanding
and planning attic ventilation systems
 Course Objectives:

After completing this course, you will:

• Understand the specific benefits of attic ventilation for all four seasons of the year

• Understand the dynamics of air movement and what’s needed for effective attic ventilation

• Be able to identify the various types of intake vents and exhaust vents

• Be able to calculate exactly how much attic ventilation is needed for any size attic

• Understand ice dam causes and defenses

Sections: Page

Section 1: Hows and Whys of Attic Ventilation 3

Section 2: Airflow and a Balanced System 6

Section 3: Intake Vents 9

Section 4: Exhaust Vents 11

Section 5: How Much Ventilation is Needed? 17

Section 6: Ice Dams 21

Glossary: 25

Course Test: 28

To receive a Certificate of Completion take the test on Page 28. AIA members who pass the test (18 correct answers out
of 20) are eligible for continuing education credits (1.5 hours; HSW category). Non-AIA members may also be
eligible for CEUs by presenting the Certificate of Completion to their professional organizations.

There are two ways to submit your answers for grading:

1. Print out the test pages. Fill in your name and mailing information and complete the test by circling your answers.
Then mail the test to: Air Vent, c/o PAV Online Course, 7700 Harker Drive, Suite A, Peoria, IL 61615.
2. Take the test online at http://www.airvent.com/professional/PAVcourse.html. Read the question in the PAV Course
PDF, then mark your answer in the interactive column to the right of the appropriate question number.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

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 Section 1: Hows and Whys of Attic Ventilation

An effective attic ventilation system provides

Overview: year-round benefits.
• During warmer months, ventilation helps keep
After completing this section you’ll attics cool.
be able to describe: • During colder months, ventilation reduces moisture
to help keep attics dry. It also helps prevent ice dams.
Several purposes of an attic ventilation system are to
• Potential heat buildup problems during
provide added comfort, to help protect against damage
warmer weather inside an attic and to materials and structure, and to help reduce energy
living space consumption – during all four seasons of the year.
Your goal should be to provide those benefits whenever
• How an effective attic ventilation system you design and install an attic ventilation system.
can help resolve heat buildup problems
Dealing with the effects of heat.
On a sunny day, radiant heat from the sun hits the roof.
• Potential moisture buildup problems
The roof temperature increases and heat travels (technically,
during colder weather inside an attic
it conducts through the roof sheathing) into the attic. As
and to the roofing materials heat builds up in the attic, it radiates to the attic floor, then
into adjacent living areas, raising temperatures there.
• How an effective attic ventilation system These are typical temperatures for a home with no attic
can help resolve moisture problems ventilation, on a sunny day, with an outdoor temperature
of 90˚F (32˚C) (see Figure 1).
• Temperature at roof sheath: as high as 170˚F (77˚C).
• Temperature at attic floor: up to 140˚F (60˚C).
• Temperature in rooms directly beneath attic:
uncomfortable.
The longer these hot, sunny conditions last, the more
uncomfortable it becomes in the home. That’s because an
unventilated – or inadequately ventilated – attic seldom
loses enough heat overnight to compensate for the heat
gained during the day. Ironically, the effect is magnified
in modern homes with heavier insulation.
Eventually, this accumulation of heat begins to have
more practical – and costly – consequences.
To reduce the effect of the heat – not only the daytime
heat gain but also the excess heat being stored in the
attic – homeowners turn on fans, window air conditioners
or central air conditioning systems. As the hot weather
continues, these appliances run longer and longer.
Homeowners pay for all this added energy consumption
in higher utility bills.
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 Section 1: Hows and Whys of Attic Ventilation

A less obvious – but equally costly – consequence Heat: how ventilation can help.
can be found on the roof itself. Homeowners can’t see it Ventilation can’t eliminate the transfer of heat from
happening, but over time excess attic heat can cause some roof to attic, but it can minimize its effect. To do that, a
shingles to distort and deteriorate. The result is premature well-designed system must provide a uniform flow of cool
failure of roofing materials – and perhaps a leaky roof. air along the underside of the roof sheathing. That steady
flow of air carries heat out of the attic before it can
Figure 1 radiate to the attic floor.
It’s critical that this airflow is uniform. That means
intake and exhaust vents must be balanced – for both
170°
Roof Sheath position and airflow capacities. Otherwise, “hot spots”
Temperature
can develop under roof sheathing, drastically reducing
140° Attic 115° Attic the efficiency and effectiveness of whatever ventilation
Temperature Temperature
is installed.

Dealing with the effects of

moisture buildup.
When winter arrives and temperatures plunge, heat
doesn’t travel from an attic into the living quarters. Instead,
heated indoor air travels from the home into the attic –
along with moisture.
Figure 2 illustrates how this process of moisture transfer
takes place. Furnace-warmed air circulates through the
Unvented: Radiant heat penetrating through roof sheath
and attic enters living areas of home. Vented: With proper house, picking up water vapor generated by activities
ventilation the heat is vented out of the attic keeping living such as cooking, bathing, and the washing of clothes and
areas cooler. dishes – as much as 2 to 4 gallons per family of four. The
The insulation/ventilation connection. use of humidifiers, common in many homes, provides an
Efficient insulation increases the need for abundant and continual source of moisture. Keep in mind
effective ventilation. also that the warmer the air is, the greater its capacity to
Why? Because heavier insulation absorbs hold moisture.
and holds more heat. That means it’s less likely The problem is especially acute in homes with electric
overnight cooling can remove heat that builds heating. Most of these homes were built since the mid-
up in an attic during a prolonged period of hot, 1970s, using advanced insulation materials and methods.
sunny weather.
As a result, most are “tight,” allowing minimal infiltration
The solution to this dilemma isn’t to reduce
of outside air. In addition, electric heat sources do not
the insulation in an attic. That would only create
require air for combustion, so another common source of
problems at other times of the year. Instead, the
outdoor air has been eliminated.
goal is to design an attic ventilation system that
effectively compensates for the additional heat
gain produced by the high levels of insulation.
In short, effective attic ventilation also helps
cool attic insulation.

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 Section 1: Hows and Whys of Attic Ventilation

Problems arise when the warm, moist air from the living a greater need for heat, greater use of the furnace leads to
quarters moves toward the attic, where the air is cooler and higher energy bills.
drier. That moist air is drawn to the attic in two ways. As with heat buildup, moisture buildup has long-term
The first is through a process called “vapor diffusion.” effects. That’s because not all the condensing moisture
It’s a process in which water vapor naturally travels from drips into insulation. The structural elements of the house
high-humidity conditions to low-humidity conditions – absorb some, leading to wood rot and the deterioration of
in our example, from the living quarters into the attic. roofing materials. Other moisture is likely to soak into the
The force of vapor diffusion is so great that moisture even attic floor and eventually into ceiling materials, causing
travels through building materials such as sheet rock. Even water stains and paint damage in the rooms below.
vapor barriers cannot totally stop this process.
Moisture: how ventilation can help.
Although the problems of attic heat and moisture have
Figure 2
different causes, they share a common solution: a high-
efficiency ventilation system that allows a uniform flow
of air to sweep the underside of the roof sheathing. The
system exchanges warm, moist air with cooler, drier air.

Unvented: Moisture rising up through the house condenses

in the attic, causing damage to studs, insulation, and other
materials. Vented: A vented attic allows moisture to escape.

The second way moisture travels into an attic is by air

moving through openings cut into a vapor barrier. Such
openings are commonly found, for example, at recessed
ceiling boxes and attic entries.
The problems start when moist air hits cooler rafters,
trusses and roof sheathing. The moisture condenses as
water droplets or frost. Eventually, the condensation
drips on the insulation below. If too much water soaks
into the insulation, its volume can be compressed and its
effectiveness reduced. The sequence of events that follows:
greater heat loss leads to colder rooms, colder rooms lead to

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5
 Section 2: Airflow and a Balanced System

“Ventilate” comes from the Latin word for “to fan,”

Overview: the action of causing air to move.
That’s what an efficient ventilation system must do –
After completing this section you’ll be able provide a steady, high volume of air movement. That
to describe: means the system components must be sized and
positioned to provide a constant flow of air, moving in
a constant direction.
• The two forces that affect air movement:
Air movement can be created in one of two ways –
thermal effect and wind
using natural ventilation or mechanical ventilation.

• Why a balanced attic ventilation system of Natural air movement is created by two key forces: thermal
intake and exhaust vents is most efficient effect and wind (see Figure 3).

• Best placement of intake and exhaust vents

Figure 3
on a roof for maximum performance

Thermal Flow (effect whereby cooler air falls, warmer air

rises) and Natural Flow (effect due to wind) come together
to ventilate an attic.

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 Section 2: Airflow and a Balanced System

Thermal Effect Wind

Thermal effect is the inherent property of warm air to rise. By itself, however, thermal effect cannot create
A well-designed attic ventilation system takes advantage of the high volume of air movement needed for effective
that movement in two ways: ventilation. That’s why the influence of wind is the key
element in the design of a non-powered ventilation
1) Since warm air rises, an effective system will include system. Wind, after all, is a natural flow of air. So when
exhaust vents at or near the ridge. That placement designing a ventilation system, you want to make the wind
allows the hottest air to be removed from the attic work to your advantage.
most efficiently. To use the power of wind, it’s important to understand
how wind force affects ventilation. It isn’t the velocity of
2) The thermal effect creates a natural circulation of the wind by itself that causes air to move through an attic.
air, because as warm air rises, cooler air falls. A well- Instead, it’s the wind’s speed as it moves against and over
designed system assists this momentum by placing a home’s exterior surfaces. A wind-driven flow of air
intake vents at the lowest point in the attic, typically in creates areas of high and low air pressure (see Figure 4).
the soffit. The cooler air entering these vents (cooler as High pressure forces air into the attic, while low
compared to the attic air) speeds this circulation of air. pressure draws air out.

Figure 4

Wind passing over an externally baffled ridge vent creates

a low pressure area at the vent’s openings which causes air
to be lifted or pulled out.

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 Section 2: Airflow and a Balanced System

Balance the system. 2) Intake vents must be located so there is little

A properly designed attic ventilation system requires possibility of rain or snow infiltration. Intake
balance. That balance is achieved in two ways: vents should be placed in protected areas, the most
convenient being in the soffit (the area underneath
1) Airflow capacity must be balanced between intake the eave of the house).
and exhaust vents. In general, the net free area [Net free Placing intake vents in the soffit doesn’t assure that
area means the total unobstructed area (usually measured a strong wind won’t drive moisture into the openings.
in square inches) through which air can enter or exhaust But should that happen, the area around the soffit is
a non-powered ventilation component.] of intake venting less likely to suffer major damage. For one thing,
should be equal to or greater than the net free area of insulation isn’t installed in the soffit, so the problem
exhaust venting. To determine how much net free area of wet insulation is avoided. In addition, rain or snow
a particular attic requires, see Section 5. entering a soffit vent is more likely to drain back
through that opening. At worst, the moisture would
2) Intake and exhaust vents must be positioned to create be confined to the soffit area, where it can evaporate
a proper high-low balance. That balance is achieved quickly without causing permanent damage.
when two conditions are met:
a) Half the vent area must be high in the attic, with Note: To assure optimum performance of intake vents,
the other half low in the attic. Without that balance, you must make certain the area above the intake opening
isn’t blocked by dirt, building debris or attic insulation
the area of effective ventilation is limited to the (see Figure 5).
lesser of the two vent areas. For example, if 75
percent of the venting is high and 25 percent low,
ventilation is limited to the air moving through Figure 5
the lower vents.
b) The vents placed high must act as exhaust vents,
while the low vents act as intake vents. That Insulation
blocking
placement assures a continuous flow of air, moving airflow
in the desired direction.

In planning the location of intake and exhaust vents,

two other factors must be considered:

1) Intake and exhaust vents must be positioned so

air chute
they assure continuous airflow along the underside
of the roof sheathing. This is where ventilation is most
effective. During summer, airflow along the sheathing
removes heat before it can radiate to the attic floor.
During winter, airflow along the sheathing removes
moisture before it can condense into water droplets (Top) Insulation blocks undereave intake vents preventing

or frost. proper airflow into the attic. (Bottom) An unblocked

undereave vent allows a passage for air to move
through attic.

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8
 Section 3: Intake Vents

In general, ventilation components can be divided into

Overview: two broad categories: intake vents and exhaust vents.
Within each category there are various styles. Furthermore,
After completing this section you’ll be ventilation components are either fixed (also called static)
able to: or powered. Let’s look at intake vents.
The best place to install intake vents is in or near the
roof eave. That location provides two key advantages:
• Identify the various types of intake vents
1) The vents are better protected from rain and snow
• Describe the design features of the various infiltration. Vents mounted in the eave provide almost
intake vents total protection. (We qualify that statement only to
acknowledge the possibility that winds at or near
hurricane force could drive moisture into an undereave
vent. In normal conditions, however, undereave
vents don’t allow moisture infiltration.)

2) Usually, when undereave vents are placed on both

sides of a roof (as they should be), there’s always an
equal distribution of high and low pressure areas.

Note: This doesn’t mean there’s an adequate distribution

of high and low pressure areas. A ventilation system that
uses only undereave vents violates the principle of a balanced
system (intake vents and exhaust vents). What this means, in
practical terms, is that the system will provide a continuous
flow of air along the attic floor, but not along the underside
of the roof sheathing, where it does the most good.

Intake vents are available in many designs. In choosing

the right unit for a particular job, you have to consider the
structure of the home, the area where the units will be
located and the net free area provided by each unit.
The most common types of intake vents are:
Undereave vents are mounted in the soffit. Units
vary in size from 16" x 8" to 16" x 4". Naturally, net free
area varies according to unit size (see Figure 6).
Continuous soffit vents are also mounted in
the soffit. These units vary in length, with the typical
length being 96" (see Figure 7).
Vented drip edge is used on homes without an
eave area. It combines a drip edge with intake louvers.

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9
 Section 3: Intake Vents

Mini-louvers are typically used with other types of Vented soffit panels are vinyl or aluminum
intake vents; they’re too small by themselves to provide soffit with vent openings already cut into the panels.
sufficient net free area of intake. In most applications, Be sure to check the net free area of the panels to assure
they’re installed in an exterior wall to help eliminate that they provide enough intake ventilation area to balance
moisture that collects in the wall cavity. To be effective, with the exhaust ventilation.
mini-louvers must be installed below the source of
humidity (such as a bathroom or laundry area). That
placement allows a flow of air to collect the humidity
Figure 7
and carry it into the attic.

Figure 6

Continuous soffit vent takes in outside air and is located on

the underside of the eave.

The undereave vent, an intake vent, allows needed air to

enter the attic. It is located on the underside of the eave of
the house.

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 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

Exhaust vents are designed to permit an efficient,

Overview: unobstructed outflow of attic air. In addition, because
they’re installed high in the attic where there’s greater
After completing this section you’ll be exposure to the weather, these units must be designed to
able to: prevent (or at least minimize) rain and snow infiltration.
Exhaust vents must be used with intake vents to
provide a balanced system and thus an adequate flow of
• Identify the various types of static and
air through an attic. It’s also worth repeating another point
powered exhaust vents
made previously: for maximum efficiency, the net free
area of intake vents should be equal to or greater than
• Describe the design features of the various the net free area of exhaust vents.
exhaust vents As with intake vents, exhaust vents are available in
different designs. Two commonly used fixed exhaust
• Explain why the most efficient type of vents are:
exhaust vent is a ridge vent Roof louvers which are installed as close to the roof
ridge as possible to allow maximum release of moisture
and overheated air. Because they’re installed near the ridge,
• Describe the Bernoulli Effect and how
they provide a continuous airflow along most of the
certain ridge vents take advantage of underside of the roof sheathing. The airflow pattern isn’t
this phenomenon uniform, however, so for maximum effectiveness, vents
should be spaced equally along the roof (see Figure 8).

Figure 8

A roof louver is an exhaust vent located near the ridge.

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11
 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

Gable louvers are typically installed in the gables. Figure 10

Two types are generally available: rectangular and

triangular. In most installations, a unit is placed at each
gable end (see Figure 9).

Figure 9

With wind blowing perpendicular to the ridge, the louvers act

as both intake and exhaust vents.

Figure 11

A gable louver, an exhaust vent, allows unwanted air to flow

out of the attic. These are located at the ends of the attic.

Note: Sometimes louvers are installed in opposite

gable ends, without intake venting, in the
mistaken assumption that a good “cross flow”
of air can provide adequate ventilation. What
typically happens, however, is illustrated in
Figures 10 and 11. If wind direction is
perpendicular to the ridge, the louvers act as
both intake and exhaust vents, providing With wind blowing parallel to the ridge, airflow dips towards
ventilation only in the areas near the vents. If the the attic floor leaving the hottest air still on the underside of
the roof sheathing.
wind direction is parallel to the ridge, a cross
flow of air is established, although the flow tends
to dip toward the attic floor, leaving the hottest
air still at the underside of the roof sheathing.
Of course, if absolutely no intake venting can be
installed at low points in the attic, a louver-only
installation is preferable to no ventilation at all.

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12
 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

Ridge vents are a special type of fixed exhaust vent.

Ridge vents offer unique advantages when compared to Weather protection
other fixed venting units. An added benefit of the external baffle is that any
– Maximum efficiency. The best ridge vents use an weather that hits it is deflected up and over the vent
external baffle designed to draw heated air from an attic away from the attic.
regardless of wind direction or force. Figure 12 shows how
that happens. When wind direction is perpendicular to the
ridge, it strikes the external baffle and jumps over
the ridge. That movement creates a Bernoulli
Figure 12 Effect, causing low pressure to develop on both
sides of the vent. When that happens, air from the
attic is “lifted” out, in much the same way
low pressure created above an airplane wing gives
“lift” to the plane (refer also to Figure 4 on page 7).

The same thing happens when the wind

direction is parallel to the ridge. It moves across
the louvers, creating a low pressure area on both
sides of the ridge vent.

In addition, when little wind force exists, ridge

vents take full advantage of the thermal effect
A baffled ridge vent creates an area of low pressure on both
to maintain air circulation across the underside
sides of the ridge vent. It literally pulls air out of the attic. of the roof sheathing. Warm air rises to the ridge
and exhausts through the vent. That allows a
continuous flow of cooler air to enter through the
– Maximum air movement. Externally baffled ridge vents intake vents. Only ridge vents use thermal effect
work better because they take advantage of two natural efficiently and effectively, because only ridge vents
forces: thermal effect or the fact that warm air rises and provide continuous and uniform air movement
low air pressure that is created at the vent openings as along the full length of a roof.
wind is deflected by the baffle. (see Figure 4 on page 7).
Note: To provide this efficient air movement,
ridge vents should be balanced with equal net
free area of intake vents. For best results, intake
vents should be divided equally along both sides
of a structure.

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13
 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

– Uniform air movement. Because ridge vents run the Figure 14

entire length of a roof, they provide a uniform flow of air

along the underside of the roof sheathing. That air
Ridge Vent
movement helps eliminate “hot spots” that can develop
with other types of exhaust vents – even powered vents.
No other exhaust vent provides this type of airflow pattern.
– Maximum visual appeal. Most ridge vents offer a
low-profile design that minimizes its appearance on a roof.
Shingle-over designs allow optimum blending with other
roof materials (see Figure 13 and Figure 14).

Figure 13

Roof Louvers

Fifteen roof louvers are required to equal the exhaust venting

of 42 linear feet of ridge vent. This clearly demonstrates the
performance and aesthetic advantages of ridge vents.

(Top) Ridge vent installed shorter than the ridge length

presents an awkward “broken” appearance. (Bottom)
A ridge vent should extend all the way along the roof for
a smooth “unbroken” roof line.

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14
 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

It’s important to emphasize that the advantages listed Wind turbines

above apply only to ridge vents that use an external baffle Although not as effective as ridge vents, wind turbines
design. A series of independent tests has concluded that provide a low-cost alternative in areas where consistent
only an external baffle can direct the wind up and over the wind speeds of at least 5 mph are typical. Without that
vent. That’s significant, because it’s that controlled flow of minimal wind speed, wind turbines act essentially as
air that creates the area of low pressure that causes air to roof louvers.
be pulled from an attic (see Figure 15 and Figure 16). When the wind is blowing, however, wind turbines can
be effective air movers.
Wind turbines consist of a series of specially shaped vanes
Figure 15 that turns wind force into a rotary motion. As the spinning
vanes gain velocity, they create an area of low air pressure.
That low pressure, in turn, pulls air from an attic.
To provide maximum ventilation benefits, wind
turbines, like roof louvers, must be equally spaced along
a roof. Otherwise, ventilation will be focused in the area
surrounding the wind turbines, allowing hot spots to
develop in other areas of the attic (see Figure 17).

Figure 17

A roll vent with an internal baffle, or without any baffle at all,

does not “pull” air from the attic.

Figure 16

Wind turbines are located near the ridge and are used to
exhaust air from the attic.

An externally baffled vent “pulls” air from the attic from both
sides of the ridge vent.

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15
 Section 4: Exhaust Vents

Power fans Figure 18

For the most part, a power fan is a motor-driven version

of a wind turbine.
A power fan uses the rotary motion of blades to pull
air into the attic through the intake vents at the soffit and
exhausts it out of the attic near the ridge. But instead of
using wind power to drive the blades, power fans use
electricity to drive high-efficiency motors or sunlight if
they are solar powered.
Unlike a wind turbine, however, the effectiveness
of a power fan isn’t dependent on wind force. Instead,
a power fan is turned on and off as needed, automatically, Power fans are used to move large volumes of air.
with thermostat and humidistat controls. (In some Roof-mount models are a good option for hard-to-vent
hip roofs that have limited horizontal ridge length available
models, an integral humidistat control is standard; in
for ridge venting.
most models, however, a humidistat is an add-on option.
Generally, solar powered fans do not have thermostat
or humidistat controls.)
Depending on the size of the motor and the efficiency When evaluating the feasibility of using power fans, it’s
of the blade design, power fans can move more than 1,500 important to evaluate one factor which is considered to be
cubic feet of air per minute (CFM). That high volume of a major disadvantage: namely, that power fans cannot
air movement is critical. To ensure adequate ventilation, vent away moisture during the winter unless they are
power fans must provide at least 10 changes of attic air equipped with humidistat controls.
every hour. (Some models offer a two-speed option that This problem can be solved by using a power fan that
allows fan speed – and air movement – to be determined has a humidistat control. When that’s done, power fans
by the “demand” for increased ventilation.) do offer key benefits. For one, they ensure a high volume
Although a power fan can move a large volume of of airflow, even on days when outside air is virtually still (a
air, a single unit generally cannot “vacuum” all hot air from common occurrence in inland areas on hot summer days).
an attic. Usually, to provide uniform air movement along In addition, power fans provide ventilation in some
the underside of the roof sheathing, a series of power fans circumstances where fixed systems would prove inadequate.
must be spaced equally along a roof. For example, most static exhaust vents in a hip roof
application fail to meet ventilation code requirements for
high (exhaust) vents, while power fans can provide the air
needed to ventilate the attic properly (see Figure 18).

Note: To determine the fan capacity and intake vent

requirements when using a power fan, see Section 5.

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16
 Section 5: How Much Ventilation is Needed?

An example of current minimum requirements for

Overview: ventilation comes from the 2003 International Residential
Code (IRC) Section R806:
After completing this section you’ll be
able to: R806.1 Ventilation required. Enclosed attics and
enclosed rafter spaces formed where ceilings are
applied directly to the underside of roof rafters shall have
• Identify current residential building code
cross ventilation for each separate space by ventilating
requirements for attic ventilation
openings protected against the entrance of rain or snow...
R806.2 Minimum area. The total net free ventilating
• Calculate how much ventilation is needed area shall not be less than 1 to 150 of the area of the
for a specific attic size space ventilated except that the total area is permitted to
be reduced to 1 to 300, provided at least 50 percent and
not more than 80 percent of the required
ventilating area is provided by ventilators located in
the upper portion of the space to be ventilated at
least 3 feet (914 mm) above eave or cornice vents
with the balance of the required ventilation provided by
eave or cornice vents. As an alternative, the net free
cross-ventilation area may be reduced to 1 to 300
when a vapor barrier having a transmission rate not
exceeding 1 perm (57.4 mg/s · m2 · Pa) is installed on
the warm side of the ceiling.
R806.3 Vent clearance. Where eave or cornice vents
are installed, insulation shall not block the free flow of air.
A minimum of a 1-inch (25.4 mm) space shall be provided
between the insulation and the roof sheathing at the
location of the vent.

Is adequate attic ventilation now assured by following

the code requirement?
The intent of the requirement, after all, is to establish
minimum standards. For example, the IRC permits the
net free area requirement to be reduced to the 1/300 ratio
in certain situations. That amounts to less than 1/2 inch
of vent area for each square foot of attic floor area, barely
enough to create a flow of air. In addition, this standard
assumes a proper balance of exhaust and intake vents.
Unfortunately, it’s probably safer to assume that
assumption rarely holds true.

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17
 Section 5: How Much Ventilation is Needed?

Exceeding code. This is a simple calculation: just divide the answer

from Step 2 by 2.
If you want to install an effective, year-round
ventilation system follow the steps below which are Calculation:
based on the 1/150 ratio. This ratio takes into account 6.6 ÷ 2 = 3.3 sq. ft. of intake net free area and 3.3 sq. ft.
that today’s homes are built with – or remodeled with – of exhaust net free area
materials (doors, insulation, windows, etc.) that are more
4. Convert to square inches.
energy efficient. Consequently, these homes are more
airtight and need more attic ventilation. The net free area specifications for attic ventilation
products are listed in square inches. Therefore, let’s
Calculating requirements for an convert our calculation in Step 3 from square feet
efficient static vent system. to square inches. To do this simply multiply by 144.
The math involved in calculating ventilation requirements
Calculation:
is simple. A pad and pencil are all you need.
3.3 sq. ft. x 144 = 475 sq. in. of intake net free area and
475 sq. in. of exhaust net free area.
Note: The following process is used to calculate requirements
for non-powered ventilation systems. If you plan to install a 5. Determine the number of units of intake and
power fan, see calculation instructions on page 19. exhaust vents you’ll require.

1. Determine the square footage of attic area to be To make these calculations, first refer to the Net Free
ventilated. Area Table on page 19. The table lists the approximate
net free area, in square inches, for common intake and
To do that, just multiply the length of the attic exhaust ventilation units.
(in feet) by its width.
To perform the calculations, divide the net free area
Example: For this and the following calculations, requirement from Step 4 by the appropriate figure from
we’ll assume the home has a 40' by 25' attic area. the Net Free Area Table1. For our example, we will use
the figures for 4 ft. length of ridge vent as well as
16" x 8" undereave vents.
Calculation:
40' x 25' = 1,000 square feet of attic area Calculation:
2. Determine the total net free area required.
(for 4-foot length of ridge vent)
475 sq. in. ÷ 72 = 6.6 pieces of vent
(or seven 4-foot lengths of ridge vent)
Once attic square footage is known, divide by 150
(for the 1/150 ratio). That determines the total amount (for 16" x 8" undereave vent)
of net free area needed to properly ventilate the attic. 475 sq. in. ÷ 56 = 8.5 pieces of vent
(or nine 16" x 8" vents)
Calculation:
1,000 sq. ft. ÷ 150 = 6.6 square feet of total net free area

3. Determine the amount of intake and exhaust

(low and high) net free area required.

For optimum performance, the attic ventilation system 1 You can also use the calculation table in the Appendix to
must be balanced with intake and exhaust vents. determine the number of feet of ridge vent and soffit vent
required for an installation.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

18
 Section 5: How Much Ventilation is Needed?

Calculations for power fan installations. Net Free Area Table

If you plan on installing a power fan, you can calculate Net Free Area

intake and exhaust requirements using the following Type of Vent (sq. in. – approximate)†
formulas: High Vents – Exhaust

Ridge vent (8' length) 144

1. Determine the fan capacity needed to provide about
Ridge vent (4' length) 72
10 to 12 air exchanges per hour.
Roof louver 50
The formula is: Wind turbine (12") 112
Attic square feet x 0.7 = CFM capacity Rectangular gable louvers
For example, using the same dimensions as the previous
example: 12" x 12" 56

12" x 18" 82
Calculation:
14" x 24" 145
1,000 sq. ft. x 0.7 = 700 CFM
18" x 24" 150
Note: For roofs with a 7/12 to 10/12 roof pitch, you may Low Vents – Intake
want to add 20 percent more CFM; and for roofs 11/12
pitch and higher, add 30% more CFM to handle the 16" x 8" undereave 56
larger volume of attic space. 16" x 6" undereave 42

2. Determine the amount of intake ventilation required. 16" x 4" undereave 28

Continuous Soffit Vent (1' length) 9

The formula is: Vented Drip Edge (1' length) 9
CFM rating of fan ÷ 300 = square feet of intake
Perforated aluminum soffit†
ventilation needed.
Calculation: One square foot 14
†
700 ÷ 300 = 2.3 square feet Lanced aluminum soffit
One square foot 4-7
To turn that figure into square inches, multiply by 144.
†
Be sure to check specifications for individual products to
Calculation:
determine actual net free vent area.
2.3 x 144 = 331 square inches of net free intake area

To find the number of intake vents required, use the

Net Free Area Table (see “Low Vents – Intake”).

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

19
 Section 5: How Much Ventilation is Needed?

Appendix: Ridge vent/soffit vent Appendix B

calculator for standard gable attic. Balancing Your Ridge Vent System
Length of Linear Feet of Number of Undereave Vents
Ridge Continuous Soffit Vent 16" x 8" 16" x 6" 16" x 4"
To use this calculator, first find the total square footage
15' 30 5 6 10
of the attic floor area. Round your calculations up to the
20' 40 6 9 13
next highest number (see Appendix A).
Then look across to the number under the Minimum 30' 60 10 13 19

Length of Ridge column. That tells you the total linear 40' 80 13 17 26
feet of ridge vent needed using the 1/300 minimum code 50' 100 16 21 32
requirements. Note: Because today’s tighter homes require more 60' 120 19 26 39
airflow, the 1/150 ratio is also included in Appendix A. 70' 140 23 30 45
To balance your ridge vent system, find the length of
80' 160 26 34 51
the ridge and follow the column to the right for required
90' 180 29 39 58
soffit or undereave vents (see Appendix B).

Note: FHA requirements and most building codes state the

Appendix A minimum required net free area. This minimum ventilation
Ventilation Requirements area may not be enough to effectively ventilate the attic to help
Attic Square Minimum Length of Ridge prevent moisture damage and cool the attic enough in the
Footage at 1/300 ratio at 1/150 ratio winter to help prevent ice dams
1200 16 32

1500 20 40

1800 24 48

2100 28 56

2400 32 64

2600 36 72

3000 40 80

3300 44 88

Note: Calculations are based on ridge vents that provide

18 square inches of net free area per linear foot.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

20
 Section 6: Ice Dams

Dealing with the effects of ice dams.

Overview: Ice dams can form when the following conditions exist:
• Warm air accumulates near the peak of an attic. This
After completing this section you’ll be condition is much more common than people think.
able to: It occurs because most attics experience some heat loss
from attic insulation. And because warm air rises, the
• Identify the major causes of ice dams upper portion of an attic is always the warmest. Normally,
that pocket of warm air won’t result in problems –
that is – until the following conditions are met.
• Specify steps that can be taken to help
• Lower areas of the roof remain cold. Once again,
prevent the formation of ice dams or this is a common condition, especially in the area just
minimize the damage they can cause above the eave, where temperatures may not be much
higher than the ambient outdoor air. If the outdoor
temperature is well below freezing, conditions are
favorable for the formation of an ice dam.
• A heavy snow cover accumulates on the roof. This
snow accumulation not only provides the necessary
moisture, it also acts as a layer of insulation, preventing
heat loss through the roof sheathing. As a result, tem-
peratures in the attic are typically warmer than they are
on days when the roof is free of snow.
When all three conditions are met, ice dams form quick-
ly. Heat high in the attic causes snow to melt near the roof
peak. The water from the melting snow flows toward the
eave area, where colder roof temperatures allow it to
refreeze. If conditions persist over several days, this
re-freezing of snow melt can form an ice dam
(see Figure 19 and Figure 20).
The weight of the dam itself can damage gutters
and fascia. When it eventually falls, it also can damage
structures or shrubbery below. But the greatest damage
occurs when the water pooling inside the dam begins
to infiltrate under shingles. The shingles themselves are
damaged – if not destroyed.
Far more serious, however, is the damage caused at
the plateline area. Insulation can be soaked, reducing its
effectiveness. Plus water can infiltrate into both exterior
and interior wall cavities, leading to structural damage
and the deterioration of painted surfaces. At the very
least, mold and mildew can form, creating unpleasant
odors and mold spores, resulting in poor indoor air quality.
For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

21
 Section 6: Ice Dams

Figure 19 Figure 20

Snow

Melted snow and ice

penetrate roof
structure

Ice damages
roof structure

Unvented: Heat entering attic from the home melts the snow
on the roof and forms destructive ice dams. Vented: Heat is (Top) Ice dams, besides being unsightly, are destructive.
vented out of the attic creating a cold roof. (Bottom) Vented attic with snow melting evenly is much
more desirable.

How ventilation helps solve ice

dam problems.
A typical tactic to fight ice dams is to add more insulation
to attics. But no amount of insulation, if used alone, can
eliminate the formation of ice dams. An efficient attic
ventilation system must be part of any solution,
along with ample insulation and waterproofing
shingle underlayment.
(Figure 21 illustrates insulation recommendations
based on geographic zones.)

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

22
 Section 6: Ice Dams

Three-part defense against ice dams. 3. If possible, install waterproofing

1. Install adequate attic ventilation. shingle underlayment (WSU).
Because ice dams form when a roof has warm upper Even the most efficient attic ventilation system may not
surfaces and cold lower surfaces, the solution is to equal- be enough to eliminate all ice dams. A combination of
ize temperatures over the entire roof. The most effective weather conditions, roof pitch, building orientation
way to equalize temperatures is to create a cold roof. and other factors may allow ice dams to form under
certain conditions. If that happens, a WSU barrier can
To do that, you need a well designed attic ventilation minimize – and possibly eliminate – water infiltration
system that will supply airflow along the entire under- into the building structure (see Figure 22).
side of the roof deck. That’s critical, because only a uni-
formly distributed airflow can reduce variation in roof Install WSU according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
temperatures from peak to eave. In general, install WSU at least two feet above the
interior wall line; many contractors say a three-foot
One of the most efficient and effective systems (from barrier is even better. When working in valleys, install
both cost and performance standpoints) uses ridge vents WSU three feet on each side of the valley center
and an evenly distributed layout of soffit vents. (see Figure 23).

2. Install adequate attic insulation.2

Attic insulation serves two purposes. First, it reduces
Figure 21
heat loss from a home’s living quarters. Since that heat
loss is a key factor contributing to the creation of ice 1

dams, stopping it at its source is critical. Second,

adequate attic insulation diminishes the energy impact
of having cold air flowing through the attic.

When installing insulation – or checking existing

insulation – be sure to install adequate amounts around
electrical fixtures and wiring and plumbing chases.
These areas often contribute to significant heat loss.
With existing insulation, also check for water damage
and for areas compressed by foot traffic or stored
objects. Finally, make certain existing insulation meets
today’s R-Value requirements.
Thermal Recommendations
Winter Heating Plus Summer Cooling
Zone Ceiling Wall Floor
Insulation Insulation Insulation
R-Value R-Value R-Value
2 It’s difficult to say precisely how much insulation will
1 R-19 R-11 R-11
be required. Many factors, from house design to its
2 R-30 R-19 R-11
orientation to the weather, enter into the equation.
3 R-38 R-19 R-13
A good rule of thumb, however, is to provide at least
10 to 12 inches of insulation. That’s equivalent to an
4 R-38 R-19 R-19
R-Value of 38. 5 R-49 R-19 R-25

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

23
 Section 6: Ice Dams

Figure 22
Snow

Melted snow and ice

penetrate roof
structure

Ice damages
roof structure

Waterproofing
shingle underlayment

(Top) Water can penetrate to an unprotected roof sheath

causing the roof sheath to rot. (Bottom) Waterproofing shingle
underlayment helps prevent water from penetrating to the
roof sheath.

Figure 23

The dark shaded areas are the places that waterproofing

shingle underlayment helps protect from the melting water
coming off the ice dam.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

24
 Glossary

Balanced System Dormer Gable Roof

Equal amounts of intake net free area A framed window unit projecting A type of roof containing sloping
ventilation at the eaves and exhaust through the sloping plane of a roof. planes of the same pitch on each side
net free area ventilation at or near of the ridge. Contains a gable at
the ridge. Drip Edge each end.
A corrosion-resistant, non-staining
Bernoulli Effect material used along the eaves and Gambrel Roof
A phenomenon whereby low pressure rakes to allow water run-off to drip A type of roof containing two sloping
resulting from wind passing over a clear of underlying construction. planes of different pitch on each side
structure or object creates a pulling of the ridge. The lower plane has a
or lifting action. Eaves steeper slope than the upper. Contains
The horizontal, lower edge of a a gable at each end.
CFM sloped roof which typically overhangs
Cubic feet of air moved per minute. the walls. Gutter
All motorized vents have a CFM A shallow channel or conduit of
rating that defines the vent’s capacity Exhaust Vent metal or wood set below and along
to move air. The higher the CFM An outlet or opening installed high on the eaves of a house to catch and
number, the greater the vent’s the roof near the ridge or in the gable carry off rainwater from the roof.
capacity. for the purpose of ventilating the
underside of the roof deck. Hip
Cold Roof The inclined external angle formed
The condition in which the roof External Wind Baffle by the intersection of two sloping
temperature is equalized from top The built-in wing or lip on a ridge roof planes. Runs from the ridge
to bottom. An equalized roof vent that deflects wind up and over to the eaves.
temperature can help eliminate the the vent creating the Bernoulli Effect
conditions that can lead to the that enhances airflow performance by Hip Roof
formation of ice dams. pulling or lifting the air out of the A type of roof containing sloping
attic. It also deflects weather elements planes of the same pitch on each
Condensation over the vent away from the attic. of four sides. Contains no gables.
The change of water from vapor to
liquid when warm, moisture-laden air Flashing Ice Dam
comes in contact with a cold surface. Pieces of metal or roll roofing used A collection of melted snow that
to prevent seepage of water into refreezes, typically at the projecting
Conduction a building around any intersection eave of a sloping roof. The ice dam
Flow of heat directly through a solid or projection in a roof, such as vent causes the water from melting snow
material; responsible for most heat pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, to back up under roof shingles.
loss or gain in a residence. dormers and valleys. Galvanized
metal flashing should be minimum Intake Vent
Convection 26-gauge. An inlet or opening installed in
Transfer of heat by air currents, i.e., the soffit or undereave area for the
gravity, hot air furnace. Gable purpose of ventilating the underside
The upper portion of a sidewall that of the roof deck.
Deck comes to a triangular point at the
The surface, installed over the ridge of a sloping roof.
supporting framing members, to
which the roofing is applied.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

25
 Glossary

Internal Weather Filter R-Value Square

An untreated, unwoven fiberglass Thermal resistance, a measure of a A unit of roof measurement covering
material inside certain ridge vents material’s or a construction’s ability a 10 ft. by 10 ft. roof area, or 100
that provides extra weather to retard heat flow. R-Values in a square feet of roof area.
protection from wind-driven rain, series of materials can be added to
snow and dust. determine a construction’s total Thermal Effect
thermal resistance. The inherent property of warm air to
Louver rise, also known as thermal buoyancy.
An opening with a series of horizontal Radiant Heat
slats so arranged as to permit ventila- Heat transferred from one body to Vapor Diffusion
tion but to exclude rain, sunlight, or another which are not in contact (i.e., The process in which water vapor
vision. from the sun to a roof ). naturally travels from high-humidity
conditions to low-humidity
Mansard Roof Rafter conditions; for example, from the
A type of roof containing two sloping One of a series of structural members living space into the attic.
planes of different pitch on each of of a roof, designed to support roof
four sides. The lower plane has a loads. The rafters of a flat roof are Vapor Retarder
much steeper pitch than the upper, sometimes called roof joists. Any material used to prevent the
often aproaching vertical. Contains passage of water vapor. Applied to
no gables. Rake insulation or other surfaces, it
The inclined overhang of a gable roof. retards vapor travel to regions of low
Net Free Area temperature where it may condense.
The total unobstructed area through Ridge A material is considered a vapor
which air can enter or exhaust a non- The horizontal line at the junction retarder if it has a perm rating of
powered vent; generally measured in of the top edges of two sloping roof 1 or less (the lower perm, the better
square inches. All nonpowered vents surfaces. The rafters of both slopes the vapor retarder). Examples: Kraft
have a Net Free Area rating. are nailed to a board at the ridge. facing on insulation, foil facing on
insulation.
O.C. Sheathing
On center. The measurement of spac- Exterior grade boards used as a roof Vent
ing for studs, rafters, joists, and the deck material. Any device installed in a roof, gable or
like from the center of one member to soffit for the purpose of ventilating
the center of the next. Shed Roof the underside of the roof deck. Any
A roof containing only one sloping outlet for air that protrudes through
Overhang plane. Has no hips, ridges, valleys the roof deck such as a pipe or stack.
The portion of the roof structure that or gables.
extends beyond the exterior walls of Waterproofing Shingle
a building. Slope Underlayment (WSU)
The degree of roof incline expressed A special self-adhering waterproofing
Perm as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to shingle underlayment designed to
A measure of water vapor movement the run, in feet. protect against water infiltration due
through material. to ice dams or wind-driven rain.
Soffit
Pitch
The finished underside of the eaves.
The degree of roof incline expressed
as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the
span, in feet.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

26
 Taking the PAV Test

There are two ways to submit your test answers for grading:

1. Print out the test pages. Fill in your name and mailing information and complete the test by circling your answers.
Then mail the test to: Air Vent, c/o PAV Online Course, 7700 Harker Drive, Suite A, Peoria, IL 61615.
2. Take the test online at http://www.airvent.com/professional/PAVcourse.html. Read the question in the PDF, then
mark your answer in the interactive column to the right of the appropriate question number.

Please allow 2 to 3 weeks for processing.

Note: To receive a Certificate of Completion you must correctly answer 18 of the 20 questions. If your test score is
less than 18 correct, you’ll be notified in writing with instructions on re-taking the test.

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

27
 PAV Test

Name

Company

Address

City, State, ZIP

E-mail Phone

1) A properly designed attic ventilation system can:

a. provide added comfort inside the living space and help reduce energy consumption inside the house
b. help protect against damage to the roof structure and materials
c. both a and b

2) On a sunny day with outdoor temperatures of 90° F, the attic temperature in a home without attic ventilation:
a. could be as high as up to 140° F
b. would be at about the same temperature as the outdoor air
c. would be 10° cooler than the outdoor air

3) In the winter:
a. heated indoor air travels from the home into the attic
b. daily activities such as cooking, cleaning and bathing can generate up to 2 to 4 gallons of moisture inside the house,
some of which rises into the attic
c. both a and b

4) “Ventilate” comes from the Latin word for:

a. “to move”
b. “to fan”
c. “to dry”

5) One of the goals of an efficient attic ventilation system is to:

a. provide a steady, high volume of air movement
b. keep only the upper part of the attic cool
c. allow moisture to condense on the wood members inside the attic

6) The key element in the design of a non-powered ventilation system is:

a. the wind
b. thermal effect
c. insulation

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

28
 PAV Test

7) “The total unobstructed area, usually measured in square inches, through which air can enter or exhaust a
non-powered ventilation component” is known as:
a. mechanical ventilation
b. net free area
c. a balanced ventilation system

8) Placing intake vents on both sides of a gable roof:

a. is not necessary
b. allows for optimum attic ventilation on both sides of the ridge
c. eliminates the need for exhaust vents high on the roof

9) The following are designed to be exhaust vents except:

a. roof louvers
b. ridge vents
c. mini-louvers

10) With a roof louver exhaust system:

a. the airflow pattern is uniform
b. the airflow pattern is not uniform
c. intake ventilation is not necessary

11) A ridge vent design that includes an external baffle:

a. uses the wind to its advantage by creating the Bernoulli Effect on both sides of the vent
b. helps protect the attic from weather infiltration
c. both a and b

12) Generally, to equal the net free area of 42 linear feet of ridge vent:
a. would require 42 roof louvers
b. would require 64 roof louvers
c. would require 15 roof louvers

13) Advantages of an externally baffled ridge vent system compared to other types of static exhaust vents include:
a. maximum air movement and efficiency
b. uniform air movement
c. both a and b

14) In order for a power fan to help fight moisture buildup in the winter, it:
a. must be equipped with a humidifier
b. must be equipped with a humidistat
c. already fights moisture with its thermostat control

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

29
 PAV Test

15) Ideally, a power fan should provide:

a. at least 5 changes of attic air every hour
b. at least 7 changes of attic air every hour
c. at least 10 changes of attic air every hour

16) In order to properly calculate the amount of intake venting needed for a power fan:
a. you must first know the fan’s CFM capacity
b. divide the living space square footage by 300
c. multiply the overhang size by 0.7

17) According to the 2003 International Residential Code Section R806, where the eave or cornice vents are installed
attic insulation shall not block the free flow of air and:
a. a minimum of 1-inch space shall be provided between the insulation and the roof sheathing at
the location of the vent
b. a minimum of 1/2 inch space shall be provided between the insulation and the roof sheathing at
the location of the vent
c. a minimum of 1/4 inch space shall be provided between the insulation and the roof sheathing at
the location of the vent

18) In an unvented attic space during the winter:

a. heat is vented out of the attic creating a cold roof
b. heat entering the attic from the living space can melt snow on the roof unevenly and contribute to ice
dam formation
c. potential ice damming in snow climates is never a concern

19) The best defense against ice dam formation includes:

a. the use of attic insulation only
b. the use of attic insulation along with attic ventilation
c. the use of attic insulation, attic ventilation and waterproofing shingle underlayment

20) The overall purpose of this online course was to:

a. familiarize you with the year-round benefits of attic ventilation
b. help you differentiate between the various types of attic ventilation systems
c. help you determine how much attic ventilation is needed for any size attic
d. all of the above

For questions or comments about this course, please contact Air Vent at [email protected].

30