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Swiming Pool

The document discusses the basic plumbing system of a typical swimming pool. It includes pictures showing the connections between the skimmer, main drain, and pump. The pictures label components like the skimmer line, main drain line, return line, and filter. It then provides troubleshooting tips for common plumbing issues like debris in lines or valves not returning to the correct position after maintenance.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
637 views4 pages

Swiming Pool

The document discusses the basic plumbing system of a typical swimming pool. It includes pictures showing the connections between the skimmer, main drain, and pump. The pictures label components like the skimmer line, main drain line, return line, and filter. It then provides troubleshooting tips for common plumbing issues like debris in lines or valves not returning to the correct position after maintenance.

Uploaded by

b_manthan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Let us start with some basics of how the pool plumbing works.

This picture helps to show


the basic connectivity of a typical swimming pool system.

(Picture borrowed from website)


Note that not all pool setups have two separate pipes to draw water from the skimmer or
main drain and bring it up to the to the pump station as shown above. On some the main
drain T's into the bottom of the skimmer and then a single line goes to the pump. The
following picture shows this alternate type connection and when one wants to drain the
pool the skimmer intake is blocked via a diverter in the bottom of the skimmer.
(Picture borrowed from here)
The above picture shows the basic plumbing circuit for water flow when the pool is
operating in the normal filtration mode. Not shown are the various valves that are used
to re-direct the pump water flow backward through the pool filter to suppport the back
flush operation. Here is yet another picture showing a setup with all the valves.

(Picture from here)


In the above the numbered elements are as follows:

1. Swimming Pool Skimmer Line


2. Swimming Pool Main Drain Line
3. Swimming Pool Slide Line
4. Automatic Pool Cleaner Line
5. Swimming Pool Return Line
6. Swimming Pool Return Line
7. Automatic Pool Cleaner Motor
8. Auto Sanitizer
9. Swimming Pool Heater
10. Swimming Pool Pump
11. D.E. Pool Filter
12. Pool Heater Gas Supply Line
Hopefully that helps to gain an understanding of how these systems work. Now let's talk
about what could be wrong with the setup that you have.

a) Make sure that after the back flush operation that you have returned all the valves to
their position for normal filtration operation.

b) Most pool pump assemblies are equipped with a debris basket on the inlet side of the
pump. Make sure to clean this out. If it gets all full of leaves and other stuff that comes
from the pool then the pump will not be able to draw water from the pool.

c) Make sure to clean out the basket assembly in the pool skimmer. Generally when this
gets completely full of leaves, tree droppings and flowers there is greatly reduced water
flow in the system and the pump will be unable to produce much pressure.

d) Also check to make sure that the skimmer pipe in the bottom of the skimmer is not
clogged up with debris that may have pulled through a broken skimmer basket. If the
basket is broken it should be replaced.

e) Now you can turn on the pool pump motor. When it is running you should be able to
observe suction in the bottom of the skimmer. If there is no suction there then there is
either an improperly positioned valve, the line from the skimmer to the pump is plugged,
the line is broken, the pump intake basket is plugged or the pump itself has failed.

f) After you have the pump going again it is necessary to purge air that gets trapped in
the top of the filter assembly. You should find a air bleeder valve near the top of the filter
(may be part of the pressure gauge) that you open to expel the air. When all air is
removed water should shoot out of the bleeder valve.

g) Be aware that when the DE filter has been flushed most of the DE material in the filter
gets ejected out into the drain line. No filtration can happen when returning to the normal
pumping mode until fresh clean DE is introduced into the system via the pool skimmer.
Follow the directions for your filter to know how much DE to place back into the system.

Hope that helps with the basics. There are obviously other things that could go wrong
but start with this and comment back if more information is gathered.
Swimming Pool Dimensions There is a good chance that if you have access to a public or campus-based pool, it
was designed for lap swimming. However, lap pools come in many different sizes and shapes, and each has its
own unique characteristics. Swimming’s governing body — Fédération Internationale de Natation (FINA), which
translates to "International Swimming Federation” — has a series of guidelines that describe pools acceptable for
competition. It’s rare that a pool meets every one of these standards, but there are some important aspects that
should remain consistent in a good lap swimming facility. Short Course & Long Course There are two regulation
pool sizes that exist in the world of competitive swimming. They are: Short course pools: More common at public
swimming locations or high schools. Long course pools: Normally found on college campuses or higher-end
swimming facilities. Although metric and non-metric pool lengths are used in USA Swimming competitions, FINA
only accepts international records swum in long course pools. Short Course Length: 25 meters or 25 yards
Abbreviations: SCM means 25 meters long, while SCY means 25 yards long Number of lanes: four or
more Long Course or Olympic Distance Length: 50 meters (164 feet) Width: 25 meters (84 feet) Number of
lanes: 8 to 10 Lane width: 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) Depth: At least 2 meters (6.6 feet) Temperature: 25-28 degrees
Celsius (77–82 degrees Fahrenheit) Sometimes pools are designed to accommodate both dimensions, with a
length of 50 meters and a width of 25 yards. In these instances, a mobile bulkhead often helps set the pool up for
long course or short course. Lane Lines & Markings Lane lines are wire cables covered with small plastic
buoys or “floats” that separate each lane. In a short course pool, the floats will change color at the 15 meter (49
foot) mark. In a long course pool, they will change color at the 25 meter (82 foot) mark. If the floats do not change
color for that entire stretch, the distances may be marked by a single float of a different color. Lane lines should
be 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) wide, although this varies quite a bit from pool-to-pool. Lane markings are contrasting,
usually-tiled lines along the bottom and ends of each lane. It is common for the end of each lane to have a “+” —
also known as a target line — centered on the end of each wall. The cross line on the + should be 0.5 meters
(1.6 feet) long and 0.3 meters (1 foot) below the surface of the water. Similarly, a line down the middle of the lane
— ending in a “T” at each wall — is often along the bottom of the pool. Each T stops 1.6 meters (5.3 feet) from
the wall. While these markings are standard for competition pools and common in others, they are not ubiquitous.
Many pools that have a shallow end also have a line that marks where the depth begins to change. Starting
Blocks Starting blocks are used in competition. Each individual swim or leg of a relay begins with a dive from
these blocks. The only exception is for backstroke races, which begin in the water with the swimmer holding on to
the grips or handles included for backstroke starts. The height of the starting block platform should be between
0.5 meters (1.6 feet) and 0.75 meters (2.5 feet) above the surface of the water. The surface area should be at
least 0.5 meters (1.6 feet) x 0.5 meters (1.6 feet), and should be covered with non-slip material. The angle of the
platform should not exceed 10 degrees. Starting blocks also usually include handles, grips, or slots for
backstroke starts. These should be between 0.3 meters (1 foot) and 0.6 meters (2 feet) above the surface of the
water. The handles should be parallel to the surface of the end wall and not extend past the wall. Backstroke
Flags Nearly all pools include backstroke flags, used by swimmers to gauge how far they are from the wall. FINA
requires a height between 1.8 meters (5.9 feet) and 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) above the surface of the water, and 5
meters (16.4 feet) from the wall. Not All Pools Are the Same The pools that you have access to might (and
probably won’t) exactly match FINA’s specifications. Because public pools cater to so many different groups —
swimmers, water polo players, children’s swim lessons, lifeguard training, aquaerobics — standard designs are
often modified to better fit the needs of all users. While you can expect the bulk of lap swimming pools to have
most of the features described in this guide, each pool will vary. Other Resources The dimensions discussed
above are included in the design of the majority of lap swimming pools. FINA does, however, have standards for
nearly every aspect of a pool and deck. This includes gutter screens, acceptable surface materials, and touch-
pad thickness for competitions. The complete list of facility rules can be found on their website:
http://www.fina.org/project/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=51&Itemid=119

Read more at: https://www.swimoutlet.com/guides/swimming-pool-dimensions

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