MOTORCYCLE

TROUBLESHOOTING

Every motorcycle engine requires an uninter- complicated a machine is the easier it is to trou-
rupted supply of fuel and air, proper ignition and bleshoot because symptoms point to specific prob-
adequate compression. If any of these are lacking, lems.
the engine will not run. After the symptoms are defined, areas which
Diagnosing mechanical problems is relatively could cause problems are tested and analyzed.
simple if you use orderly procedures and keep a few Guessing at the cause of a problem may provide the
basic principles in mind. solution, but it can easily lead to frustration, wasted
The troubleshooting procedures in this chapter time and a series of expensive, unnecessary partS
analyze typical symptoms and show logical methods replacements.
of isolating causes. These are not the only methods. You do not need fancy equipment or complicated
There may be several ways to solve a problem, but test gear to determine whether repairs can be at-
only a systematic approach can guarantee success. tempted at bome. A few simple checks could save a
Never assume anything. Do not overlook the ob- large repair bill and lost time while the bike sits in a
vious. If you are riding along and the bike suddenly dealer's service department. On the other hand, be
quits, check the easiest, most accessible problem realistic and don't attempt repairs beyond your abili-
spots first. Is there gasoline in the tank? Has a spark ties. Service departments tend to charge heavily for
plug wire fallen off? putting together a disassembled engine that may
If nothing obvious turns up in a quick check, look have been abused. Some won't even take on such a
a little further. Learning (0 recognize and describe job--so use common sense and don't get in over
symptoms will make repairs easier for you or a your head.
mechanic at the shop. Describe problems accurately
and fully. Saying "it won't run" isn't the same thing
OPERATING REQUIREMENTS
as saying "it quit at high speed and won't stan." or,
"it sat in my garage for 3 months and then wouldn't An engine has 3 basic needs to run properly:
start ." correct fuel/air mixture, compression and a spark at
Gather as many symptoms as possible to aid in the correct lime. If one or more are missing, the
diagnosis. Note whether the engine lost power engine will not run. Four-stroke engine operating
gradually or aJI at once. Remember that the more principles are illustrated in Figure 1. The electrical
4-STROKE PRINCIPLES
system is the weakest link of the 3 basics. More clean the electrical connection between the plug and
problems result from electrical breakdowns than the spark plug wire connector.
from any other source. Keep that in mind before you 5. Is the choke in the right position?
begin tampering with carburetor adjustments and the
like.
If the machine has been sitting for any length of ENGINE STARTING
time and refuses to start, check and clean the spark
plugs and then look to the gasoline delivery system. An engine that refuses to start or is difficult to start
This includes the fuel tank, fuel shutoff valve and is very frustrating. More often than not, the problem
fuel line to the carburetor. Gasoline deposits may is very minor and can be found with a simple and
have formed and gummed up the carburetor jets and logical troubleshooting approach.
air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency after The following items will help isolate engine start-
standing for long periods. Condensation may con- ing problems.
taminate the fuel with water. Drain the old fuel from
the fuel tank, fuel lines and carburetors and try
Engine Fails to Start
starting with a fresh tankful.
Perform the following spark test to determine if
the ignition system is operating properly.
TROUBLESHOOTING INSTRUMENTS
1. Remove one of the spark plugs.
Chapter One lists the instruments needed and 2. Connect the spark plug wire and connector to the
instruction on their use. spark plug and touch the spark plug base to a good
ground like the engine cylinder head. Position the
spark plug so you can see the electrodes.
EMERGENCY TROUBLESHOOTING

When the bike is difficult to start, or won't start at

all, it doesn't help to wear down the battery using the
electric starter. Check for obvious problems even
before gelting out your tools. Go down the following
list step by step. Do each one; you may be embar-
rassed to find the kill switch off, but that is better
than wearing down the battery. If the bike still will
not start, refer to the appropriate troubleshooting
procedures which follow in this chapter.

WARNING
During Step 1, do not use an open flame
(0 check in the tank. A serious explosion
is certain to result.

1. Is there fuel in the tank? Open the filler cap and

rock the bike. Listen for fuel slosbing around.
2. Is the fuel supply valve in the ON position? Turn
the valve to the RESERVE position to be sure you
get the last remaining gas.
3. Make sure the kill switch (Figure 2) is not stuck
in the OFF position or that the wire is not broken and
shorting out.
4. Are the spark plug wires on tight? Push both spark
plug wires on (Figure 3) and slightly rotate them to
 WARNING e. Seized crankshaft bearings.
During the next step, do not hold the f. Broken connecting rod.
spark plug, spark plug wire or connee-
tor with fingers. The high voltage gen-
erated by the ignition system could ENGINE PERFORMANCE
produce serious or fatal shocks. Use a
pair of insulated pliers to hold the spark In the following checklist, it is assumed that the
plug or wire. engine runs, but is not operating at peak perform-
ance. This will serve as a starting point from which
3. Crank the engine over with the starter. A fat blue
to isolate a performance malfunction.
spark should be evident across the spark plug elec-
The possible causes for each malfunction are
trodes.
listed in a logical sequence and in order of prob-
4. If the spark is good. check for one or more of the
following possible malfunctions: ability.
a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter.
b. Leaking head gasket Engine Will Not Idle
c. Low compression.
5. If the spark: is not good, check for one or more of a. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted.
the foUowing: b. Fouled or improperly gapped spark pIug(s).
a. Loose electrical connections. c. Leaking bead gasket.
b. Dirty electrical connections. d. Obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve.
c. Loose or broken ignition coil ground wire. e. Obstructed fuel filter.
d. Broken or shorted high tension lead to the
f. Ignition timing incorrect due to defective igni-
spark plug (Figure 3).
tion component(s).
e. Discharged battery.
g. Valve clearance incorrect.
f. Disconnected or damaged battery connection.
g. Neutral, starter lockout or side stand switch
trouble. Engine Misses at High Speed

a. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs.

Engine is Difficult to Start
b. Improper carburetor main jet selection.
Check for one or more of the following possible c. Ignition timing incorrect due to defective ig-
malfunctions: nition component(s).
a. Fouled spark plug(s). d. Weak ignition coil(s).
b. Improperly adjusted choke. e. Obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve.
c. Intake manifold air leak. f. Obstructed fuel filler.
d. Contaminated fuel system. g. Clogged carburetor jets.
c. Improperly adjusted carburetor.
f. Weak ignition unit.
g. Weak ignition coils. Engine Overheating
h. Poor compression.
i. Engine and transmission oil too beavy. a. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selec-
tion.
b. Ignition timing incorrect due to improper ad-
Engine Will Not Crank justment or defective ignition compooent(s).
Check for one or more of the following possible c. Improper spark plug beat range.
malfunctions: d. Damaged or blocked cooling fins.
a. Blown fuse. e. Oil level low.
b. Discharged bartery, f. OH not circulating properly.
c. Defective starter motor. g. Valves leaking.
d. Seized piston(s). b. Heavy engine carbon deposits.
 ENGINE NOISES
Engine Overheating
(Water-cooling problems)
Often the first evidence of an internal engine
problem is a strange noise. That knocking. clicking
a. Clogged radiator.
or tapping sound which you never heard before may
b. Damaged thermostat.
be warning you of impending trouble.
c. Worn or damaged radiator cap. While engine noises can indicate problems. they
d. Water pump worn or damaged. are difficult to interpret correctly; inexperienced me-
e. Fan relay damaged. chanics can be seriously misled by them.
f. Thermostatic fan switch damaged. Professional mechanics often use a special stetho-
g. Damaged fan blade(s) scope (which looks like a doctor's stethoscope) for
isolating engine noises. You can do nearly as well
with a "sounding stick" which can be an ordinary
Excessive Exhaust Smoke and Engine Runs piece of dowling, a length of broom handle or a
Roughly section of small hose. By placing one end in contact
with the area 10 which you want to listen and the
a. Clogged air filter element. other end near your ear, you can hear sounds ema-
b. Carburetor adjustment incorrect-mixture nating from that area. The first time you do this. you
too rich. . may be horrified at the strange sounds coming from
c. Choke not operating properly. even a normal engine. If possible, have an experi-
d. Water or other contaminants in fuel. enced friend or mechanic help you sort out the
e. Clogged fuel line. noises. Consider the following when troubleshoot-
f. Ignition coil defective. ing engine noises:
g. Spark plugs fouled.
1. Knocking or pinging during acceleration-
caused by using a lower octane fuel than recom-
h. IC igniter or pickup coil defective.
mended. May also be caused by poor fuel. Pinging
i. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire. can also be caused by a spark plug of the wrong heat
j. Short circuit from damaged wire insulation. range. Refer to Correct Spark Plug Heat Range in
k. Loose battery cable connection. Chapter Three.
l. Valve liming incorrect. 2. Slapping or rattling noises at low speed or during
m. Intake manifold or air cleaner air leak. acceleration-may be caused by piston slap. i.e.,
excessive piston-cylinder wall clearance.
3. Knocking or rapping while decelerating-usu-
Engine Loses Power at Normal Riding Speed ally caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.
4. Persistent knocking and vibration-usually
a. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted.
caused by worn main bearing(s).
b. Engine overheating.
5. Rapid on-off squeai--compression leak around
c. Ignition timing incorrect due to defective ig- cylinder head gasket or spark plug(s).
nition component(s). 6. Valve traillnoise-check for the following:
d. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs. a. Valves adjusted incorrectly.
e. Obstructed muffler. b. Loose valve adjuster.
f. Dragging brakes(s). c. Valve Slicking in guide.
d. Low oil pressure.
e. Damaged rocker arm or shaft. Rocker ann
Engine Lacks Acceleration
may be binding on shaft.
a. Carburetor mixture tOOlean.
b. Clogged fuel line. ENGINE LUBRICATION
c. Ignition timing incorrect due to defecrive ig-
nition component(s). An improperly operating engine lubrication sys-
d. Dragging brakes(s). tem will quickly lead to engine seizure. The engine
oil level should be checked weekly and the tank problem. The troubleshooting chart in Figure 4 lists
refilled, as described in Chapter Three. Oil pump clutch troubles and checks to make. Refer to Chapter
service is described in Chapter Four. Five for clutch service procedures.

Oil Consumption
Excessively
High or Engine Smokes TRANSMISSION
I
The basic transmission troubles are:
a. Worn valve guides.
a. Excessive gear noise.
b. Worn or damaged piston rings.
b. Difficult shifting.
c. Gears pop out of mesh.
Excessive Engine Oil Leaks
d. Incorrect shift lever operation.
a. Clogged air cleaner breather hose. Transmission symptoms are sometimes hard to
b. Loose engine parts. distinguish from clutch symptoms. The trou-
c. Damaged gasket sealing surfaces. bleshooting chan in Figure 5 lists transmission trou-
bles and checks to make. Refer to Chapter Six for
transmission service procedures. Be sure that the
CLUTCH clutch is not causing the trouble before working on
the transmission.
The three basic clutch troubles are:
a. Clutch noise.
b. Clutch slipping. CHARGING SYSTEM
c. Improper clutch disengagement or dragging.
All clutch troubles, except adjustments. require Charging system testing procedures are described
partiaJ clutch disassembly to identify and cure the in Chapter Eight.

CLUTCH TROUBLESHOOTING

IClutch slipping Check:

• Weak clutch springs

• Worn clutch plates
• Damaged pressure plate
• Clutch release mechanism damage

IClutch dragging
L-- -'
Check:
•Incorrect clutch adjustment
• Clutch spring tension uneven
• Warped clutch plates
• excessive clutch lever play
• Clutch housing damage

I excessive clutch noise Check:

• Damaged clutch gear teeth
• Worn or warped clutch plates
 STARTING SYSTEM Starter does not crank

The basic starter-related troubles are: 1. Turn on the headlight and push the starter button.
a. The starter does not crank. Check for one of the following conditions.
b. The starter cranks, but the engine does not 2. STarter does not crank and headlight does not
start. come on: The battery is dead or there is a loose
banery connection. Check the battery charge as de-
scribed in Chapter Three. If the battery is okay, check
Testing the starter connections at the battery. solenoid and at
the starter switch. Clean and tighten all connections.
Starting system problems are relatively easy to 3. Headlight comes on. but goes out when starter
find. In most cases, the trouble is a loose or dirty button is pushed: There may be a bad connection at
electrical connection. Use the troubleshooting chart the battery. Wiggle the battery terminals and re-
in Figure 6 with the following tests. check. If the starter starts cranking, you 've found the

TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING

, excessive gear noise I Check:

• Worn bearings
* Worn or damaged gears
• excessive gear backlash

, Difficult shifting I Check:

• Damaged gears
• Damaged shift forks
• Damaged shift drum
• Damaged shift lever assembly
• Incorrect main shaft and countershaft
engagement
• Incorrect clutch disengagement

, Gears pop out of mesh I Check:

• Worn gear or transmission shaft splines
• Shift forks worn or bent
• Worn dog holes In gears
• Insufficient shift lever sprIng tensIon
• Damaged shift lever linkage

'Incorrect shift lever operation I Check:

• Bent shift lever
• Bent or damaged shift lever shaft
• Damaged shift lever linkage or gears

Incorrect shifting after Check:

engine reassembly • MIssing transmission shaft shims
• Incorrectly Installed parts
• Shift forks bent during reassembly
• Incorrectly assembled crankcese
assembly
• Incorrect clutch adjustment
• Incorrectly assembled shift
linkage assembly
problem. Remove and clean the battery terminal NOTE
clamps. Clean the battery posts also. Reinstall the Depending upon battery condition, the
terminal clamps and tighten securely. battery will eventually run down as the
starter buuon is continually pressed.
4. Headlight comes on. but dims slightly when the Remember that if the starter cranks nor-
starter button is pushed: The problem is probably in mally, but the engine fails to start, the
the starter. Remove and test the starter as described stoner is working properly. It s time to
in Chapter Eight stan checking other engine systems.
Don't wear the battery down.
5. Headlight comes on, but dims severely when the
starter button is pushed: Either the battery is nearly
dead or the starter or engine is partially seized. ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS
Check the battery as described in Chapter Three.
Check the starter as described in Chapter Eight
H bulbs bum out frequently, the cause may be
excessive vibration, loose connections that permit
before checking for partial engine seizure.
sudden current surges or the installation of the
6. Headlight comes on and stays bright when the wrong type of bulb.
starter button is pushed: The problem is in the starter Most light and ignition problems are caused by
button. side stand switch, starter button-to-solenoid loose or corroded ground connections. Check tbese
wiring or in the starter itself. Check the starter before replacing a bulb or electrical component.
switch, kill switch, side stand switch. starter relay
and the starter circuit relay. Check each switch by
IGNITION SYSTEM
bypassing it with a jumper wire. Check the starter as
described in Chapter Eight. 'The ignition system is of the breakerless inductive
discharge type. See Chapter Eight. Most problems
involving failure to start, poor driveability or rough
SJarler spins but engine does not crank running are caused by trouble in the ignition system.
Note the following symptoms:
If the starter spins at normal or high speed but the a. Engine misses.
engine fails to crank, the problem is in the starter b. Stumbles on acceleration (misfiring).
drive mechanism. c. Loss of power at high speed (misfiring).

STARTER TROUBLESHOOTING
Starter does not work Low battery Recharge battery
Worn brushes Replace brushes
Defective relay Repair or replace
Defective awltch RepaIr or replace
Defective wiring or connection Repair wire or clean connecUon
Intemal short circuit Repair or replace defective
component

Starter action is weak Low battery Recharge battery

Pitted relay contacts Worn Clean or replace
brushes Defective Replace brushes
connection Short circuit In Clean and tighten
commutator Replace annature

Starter runs continuously Stuck relay Replace relay

Starterturns; does not tum engine Defective starter clutch Replace starter clutch
 d. Hard starting (or failure to start). Before beginning actual troubleshooting, read the
e. Rough idle. entire [est procedure (Figure 7). When required, the
Most of the symptoms can also be caused by a diagnostic chart will refer you to a certain chapter
carburetor that is worn or improperly adjusted. Con- for Lestprocedures.
sidering the law of averages, however, the odds are
far better that the source of the problem will be found EXCESSIVE VIBRATION
in the ignition system rather than the fuel system.
Usually this is caused by loose engine mounting
hardware. If not, it can be difficult to find without
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
disassembling the engine. High speed vibration may
TROUBLESHOOTING
be due to a bent axle shaft or loose or faulty suspen-
The following basic tests are designed to pinpoint sion components. Vibration can also be caused by
and isolate problems quickly in the primary circuit the following conditions:
of the breakerless inductive discharge ignition sys- a. Broken frame.
tem. b. Severely worn primary chain.
c. Worn drive chain.
d. Primary chain links tight due to improper
Spark Test lubrication.
e. Improperly balanced wheels.
Perform the following test to determine if the
f. Defective or damaged wheels.
ignition system is operating properly.
g. Defective or damaged tires.
1. Remove one of the spark plugs.
h. Internal engine wear or damage.
2. Connect the spark plug wire and connector to the
spark plug and touch the spark plug base to a good
ground like the engine cylinder head. Position the FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING
spark plug so you can see the electrodes.
Poor handling may be caused by improper tire
WARNING pressure, a damaged or bent frame or front steering
During the next step, do not hold the components, worn wheel bearings or dragging
spark plug, spark plug wire or connec- brakes. Possible causes of suspension and steering
tor. The high voltage generated by the malfunctions are listed below.
ignition system could produce serious
or fatal shocks. If necessary, use a pair
of insulated pliers to hold the spark plug Irregular or Wobbly Steering
or wire.
a. Loose wheel axle nuts.
3. Crank the engine over with the starter. A fat blue b. Loose or worn steering head bearings.
spark should be evident across the spark plug elec- c. Excessive wheel hub bearing play.
trodes. d. Damaged cast wheel.
4A. If a spark is obtained in Step 3, the problem is e. Unbalanced wheel assembly.
not in the ignition or coil. Check the fuel system and f. Worn hub bearings.
spark plugs. g. Incorrect wheel alignment.
4B. If no spark is obtained, proceed with the follow- h. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame (at
ing tests. steering neck).
i, Tire incorrectly seated on rim.
j. Excessive front end loading from non-stand-
Testing
ard equipment.
Test procedures for troubleshooting the ignition
system are found in the diagnostic chart in Figure 7. Stiff'Steering
A multimeter; as described in Chapter One, is re-
quired to perform the lest procedures. a. Low front tire air pressure.
IGNITION SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
PROBLEM: WEAK OR NO SPARK AT ALL

TEST 1: Perfonn the troubleshooting

procedures In this chapter to Isolate
the system or systems which are
I
causing engine malfunction.

TEST 2: Perfonn the Ignition spark

test as described In this chapter.

TEST 3: Perfonn Stator Test as Stator winding resis-

described In Chapter Eight. • tance not In specified
range

(continued)
(]) (continued)

IOK j-- TEST 4: Measure pickup coli r- Resistance between

resistance as described In Chapter leads not within speclfl-
I Eight. • cation.
I Perform TEST 5 I :l
Replace pickup colis.

IOK ~ TEST 5: Measure Ignition coli r-- Primary andlor .. con-

primary and secondary resistance a. dary resistance not
I described In Chapter Eight. within specification.
I Perform TEST 6 I
I
Replace ignition COU(8).

TEST 6: Remove IC Igniter and have a

Kawasaki dealer test It.·

• Check wiring and connections that lead to components.

 b. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame (at c. Shock shaft worn or bent.
steering neck). d. Incorrect rear shock spring.
c. Loose or worn steering head bearings.
d. Steering stem nut too tight.
e. Rear shock adjusted incorrectly.
f. Heavy rear end loading from non-standard
equipment.
I
Stiff or Heavy Fork Operation g. Incorrect loading.

a. Incorrect fork springs.

BRAKE PROBLEMS
b. Incorrect fork oil viscosity.
c. Excessive amount of fork oil. Sticking disc brakes may be caused by a stuck
d. Bent fork rubes. piston(s) in a caliper assembly or warped pad
shim(s). See Figure 8 for disc brake troubles and
Poor Fork Operation checks to make.
A sticking drum brake may be caused by worn or
a. Worn or damaged fork tubes. weak return springs, dry pivot and cam bushings or
b. Fork oil level low due to leaking fork seals. improper adjustment. Grabbing brakes may be
c. Bent or damaged fork tubes. caused by greasy linings which must be replaced.
d. Contaminated fork oil. Brake grab may also be due to an out-of-round drum.
e. Incorrect fork springs. Glazed linings will cause loss of stopping power: See
f. Heavy front end loading from non-standard Figure 9 for drum brake troubles and checks to
equipment. make.

Poor Rear Shock Absorber Operation CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING

a. Weak or worn spring. Basic carburetor troubleshooting procedures are

b. Damper unit leaking. found in Figure 10.
 DISC BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING

I Disc brake fluid leakage 11--------1 Check:

* Loose or damaged line fittings
• Worn caliper piston seels
* Scored caliper piston andlor bore
• Loose banjo bolts
* Damaged all line washers
• Leaking master cylinder diaphragm
* Leaking master cylinder secondary seal
• Cracked master cylinder housing
• Too high brake fluid level
• Loose master cylinder cover

I Brake overheatlngl-- I-----~C::jh:;:ec:;k-:: --------------1

• Warped brake disc
• Incorrect brake fluid
• Caliper piston andlor brake pads hanging up
• Riding brakes during riding

I Brake chatter 1 Check:

• Warped brake disc
• Loose brake disc
• Incorrect caliper alignment
• Loose caliper mounting bolts
• Loose front axle nut and/or clamps
• Worn wheel bearings
• Damaged front hub
• Restricted brake hydraulic line
• Contaminated brake pads

Brake locking 11--------1 Check:

I • Incorrect brake fluid
• Plugged passages In master cylinder
• Incorrect front brake adjustment
• Caliper piston andlor brake pads hanging up
• Warped brake disc

1r--------1
I Insufficient brakes Check:
• Air In brake lines
• Worn brake pads
• Low brake fluid level
• Incorrect brake fluid
• Worn brake disc
• Worn caliper piston seals
• Glazed brake pads
* Leaking primary cup seal In master cylinder
* Contaminated brake pads and/or disc

I Brake squeal 11---------1Check:

• Contaminated brake pads andlor disc
• Dust or dirt collected behind brake pads
• Loose parts
 DRUM BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING

I Brakes do not hold

'
Check:
· Worn brake linings
• Glazed brake linings
• Worn brake drum
I
• Glazed brake drum
• Incorrect brake adjustment
• Worn or damaged brake cable
• Worn or defective brake return springs

I Brakes grab Check:

• Worn or damaged brake return springs
• Incorrect brake adjustment
• Brake drum out-ct-rcund
• Warped brake lining web
• Loose or worn wheel bearings

I Brakes squeal or scrape Check:

• Worn brake linings
• Brake drum out-of·round
• Contaminated brake linings andlor drum
• Broken, loose or damaged brake component
• Loose or worn wheel bearing
• Loose brake drum·ta-wheel mounting bolta

I Brakes chatter I Check:

• Brake drum out-of·round
• Brake linings worn unevenly
• Warped brake lining web
• Incorrect brake adjustment
• Loose or worn wheel bearing
• Worn or damaged brake return springs

CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING

CONDITION SYMPTOM CONDITION SYMPTOM

RIch mixture Rough Idle Lean mixture Backfiring

Black exhauat smoke Rough Idle
Hard starting, especially Overheating
when hot Hesitation upon acceleration
Gas-fouled spark plugs Engine speed varies at fixed
Black deposits In exhaust pipe throttle
Poor gas mileage Loss of power
Engine performance worse as It White color on spark plug
warms up Insulator
Poor acceleration