Oil Painting Tutorials
Oil Painting Tutorials
Over the years of teaching people how to use oil paints, I have found that this set of
exercises has the best results with the least amount of work in the shortest amount of
time.
Paint as loosely or tightly as you like, the principles of these exercises are the same
in all styles.
At the end you will have had enough painting experience to start to paint your own
masterpieces!
Basic Forms
You will learn how to paint the five basic forms, the cone, cylinder, sphere, cube and
torus. These forms are the foundation of all the objects you see. To be able to paint
these then is to be able to paint anything.
In this exercise the colors are seen only as lights and darks or values. This painting
will teach you to paint more complex forms than the previous exercise and it will
teach you to see a color's value.
In this exercise you will practice mixing colors and painting these bright simple forms.
Distance and Texture
In this exercise you will practice creating the illusion of distance with color. You will
also learn to see the form within textured objects.
To use these exercises duplicate the various stages of the painting on a canvas of
your own. If you choose to paint your own subjects pick ones similar to those here.
For this one you could paint your own black and white subject or print out the source
photo and paint from that. Follow the steps. Try out the brush strokes.
Basic Forms
You will learn how to paint the five basic forms, the cone, cylinder, sphere, cube and
torus. These forms are the foundation of all the objects you see. To be able to paint
these then is to be able to paint anything. (See Creating Form.)
All forms begin with shapes of light, middle and dark values. Each value shape is
unique to its form: parallel stripes on cylinders, triangles on cones, gradual blends on
the faces of a cube, crescents and ovals on a sphere and crescents and stripes on a
torus.
Each form uses different brush strokes. Triangular strokes on cones, crescent
strokes on sphere and torus, curved strokes for sphere, torus and circular blends.
Parallel strokes make cylinders and the faces of a cube. (See Brushes)
With these things in mind we paint this subject. The only colors are black and white.
How much paint do you put out on your palette?
You need to mix enough paint to cover the area of canvas you want to paint. The one
inch mixture above brushed out to a four inch square. I always mix twice as much of
a color as I think Ill use. It is far better to have some paint left over than to run out.
Youll want more of a mixed color because its unique than you will of one from the
tube.
The drawing is made with Titanium White with the addition of thinner to make it flow
easily and dry quickly. Note the internal guidelines in the cone and cylinder.
Starting with the lightest mixed value, the value shapes are painted in. Use triangular
brush strokes for the cone, parallel brush strokes for the cylinder and cube, crescent
strokes for the torus and curved strokes on the sphere.
Place the darkest of the mixed values. Note the identifying value shapes and how
they define the forms.
The top of the cylinder is flat and is therefore painted in the same way we would paint
one of the faces of a cube, three values evenly spaced and then blended.
Brush in the middle values wherever you don't have light or dark values.
Blend the transitions between values. (See Blends) The direction and shape of the
brush stroke appropriate for the form is also used for the blend. Use curved strokes
for the sphere, crescent shaped strokes for the torus, triangular strokes for the cone
and parallel strokes for the cylinder and cube. If in blending the values you blend too
much and loose contrast (See Contrast) re-introduce, wet paint into wet paint, the
lights and darks even, if necessary, to pure black and white.
Put in the background values. Use the background to sharpen edges. The tabletop
recedes and is therefore a blend. Three different values are used to set up the blend.
The wall is parallel to the canvas and is seen as a single value.
Blend the background. Use a Round brush to paint the proximity shadows. (See
Shadows) These long dark lines will be easier with a little medium added. (See
Medium)
You have now experienced using the paints and brushes in the different ways
necessary to create the basic forms.
Flats
A FLAT brush has hairs arranged in a rectangular shape that is longer than it is wide.
From the side it is narrow. The Flat is the most versatile of brushes. You can make a
broad stroke, a narrow stroke and, with a little twist, a triangular stroke. This is also
your primary blending brush.
Filberts
A FILBERT looks like a Flat with the corners rounded. The stroke is oval shaped or
half circular. They are used when you want a softer edge or for smaller blends than
you get with a Flat.
Brights
A BRIGHT (named after a fellow named Bright) is like a Flat except the hairs are
shorter and the side view is narrower. A Bright is used when you want your brush
strokes to show. They tend to put the paint on thickly and when worked too hard will
remove as paint much as they apply. The bright, being short and therefore stiffer than
a Flat, can also give you a little more control of your stroke.
Rounds
Although some people successfully use ROUNDS for their entire painting, they are
less versatile than other brush shapes because little variation in the size and shape
of the stroke is possible. Rounds are most often sable hair and are used for small
details and line work.
Varnish Brushes
These soft sable-like brushes are used for varnish and retouch varnish. Clean the
varnish from the brushes with turpentine then wash them in soap and water.
When objects have a HIGH CONTRAST of values they appear close. When their
contrast is low they appear farther away. The distant cliffs have a smaller range of
values and therefore less contrast than the near cliffs.
The gradual increase in the contrast of objects brings them into the foreground.
An object's cast shadow can be used to indicate distance by its contrast to its
environment.
Low Contrast
Objects in diffused light have the lowest contrast.
Objects within a cast shadow are always in diffused light. If objects have values from
middle to dark, they appear to be in a cast shadow.
If objects have values from middle to light, they appear in a haze or a mist.
CONTRAST CREATES THE TYPE OF LIGHT. High contrast equals bright light.
Low contrast equals diffused light, distance, shadow or haze.
You then determine which value it isn't. Clearly the value of the blue is not # 9 or # 1.
It's not #'s 8,7 or 6 because the blue is darker than these. The true value of a color
will be between too light and too dark on the value scale. The blue is lighter than #2
and darker than # 4. Its value is #3.
The drawing is made with thinned white paint on a toned canvas (See Canvas).
White is used because it will create the least contamination of subsequent colors.
The drawing should remain simple because a complex drawing would soon be
painted over and lost.
The pure white patches are the highlights. They are put in first here to keep them as
clean as possible. The highlight on a shiny object is a distorted picture of its light
source. The light value for this pepper is placed around the highlight and wherever
else the light value appears.
Next the darks are placed.
If it's not the light and not the dark it's the middle value.
The middle and light values are blended with a Flat brush.
The pepper is blended using parallel and curved strokes with Flat bristle and Flat
sable brushes.
The first pepper was the lightest in value. This second pepper is the darkest in value.
In the three values we use for this darker pepper the light value is the same as the
middle value of the first one. Once again the light value is placed around the
highlight.
The darks are put in. They are darker than the darkest darks of the first pepper.
The middle values are put in wherever the lights and darks are not. A Flat bristle
brush one inch wide was used.
The blends are mostly made with curved brushstrokes using a Sable Flat.
The right hand pepper is a value between the first two. Each of these peppers has its
own set of three values.
The cabbage is begun. Its value shapes establish the form first.
The other cabbage is a different set of three values but it has the same form.
The texture is applied to the second cabbage using wet paint into wet paint.
Cast shadows are the absence of light so their values are dependent on the surface
value and the strength of the light. Bright light makes dark shadows.
The background cleans up the edges.
Thus you have seen the importance of the values within the colors and how
they alone create the illusion of form. Plus you have used the paint in new
ways.
The wheel is arranged with yellow, the lightest value color at the top and violet, the
darkest value color at the bottom. From the top down on the right are yellow-orange,
orange, red-orange, red, and red-violet. These are called the warm colors. From the
top down on the left are yellow-green, green, blue-green, blue and blue-violet. These
are called the cool colors.
Complementary Colors
Any TWO colors directly across the color wheel from each other are called
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS. Red and green are opposite each other on the color
wheel and therefore are complementary to each other. Yellow and violet are each
other's complements. Yellow-green and red-violet are complements. Complimentary
colors when placed next to each other on the canvas intensify each other.
Complementary colors when mixed together on the palette neutralize each other. In
this chart the pure intense colors are on the outside opposite their complements. As
we move to the middle, the complements are mixed together until they become gray,
the least intense of all.
Color Values
All colors come in all values. The pure spectrum colors are in the position of their
relative values on this seven-value scale.
White is added to the middle value to create a light value. Blue-violet is added to the
middle value yellow-orange to create the object's shadow color.
The soap's colors are matched. A color's complement will usually make the color's
shadow value. For darker value shadows use the middle value color with less white.
In some cases a color's compliment won't darken the color enough. This is when you
add black to get the value.
Lay out your colors on your palette in this order. On the edge farthest from you, put
your white on the left. As a right-handed painter you will have to reach the farthest to
get to the white thus reducing the degree of contamination from neighboring colors.
Next is cadmium yellow light, then cadmium yellow, cadmium orange, cadmium
scarlet, cadmium red, Quinacridone rose, dioxazine violet, French ultramarine blue,
thalo blue, thalo green, cadmium green and cadmium green pale. Black may also be
added but is so rarely used it is put out only as needed.
If you are using the minimum palette of colors, lay them out as white, cadmium
yellow, cadmium orange, cadmium red, Quinacridone rose, dioxazine violet,
ultramarine blue and cadmium green. The intermediate colors such as yellow-orange
or blue-violet will have to be mixed when needed.
With these things in mind we will paint these toys.
The drawing is made with white paint that has been thinned down.
Starting with the teapot put in the light value first. The blue is a mixture of French
ultramarine and thalo blue. For the light we just add white.
Next we put in the dark. The dark is the middle value blue with the addition of blue's
complement, orange. A deep dark is needed so no white is used. In all cases a
color's complement is added to the shadowed part of the object.
The middle value is the true color of the object.
The values are blended with parallel strokes and the illusion of form is created.
Next are the yellows. Three values of yellow are created. The spectrum color is pure
yellow. The middle value is Cadmium yellow light with a little white. The light value is
the middle value with more white added. Shadows always contain the complement of
a color thus the dark is Cadmium yellow pale plus its complement Dioxazine violet.
The light value is placed around the highlight. The highlight is a distorted picture of
the light source as it is on all shiny objects.
The dark is next. The sequence of light, dark and middle is used. Light is used first to
minimize contamination from the wet paint. Dark is next because it is easy to see.
The middle value is last and unifies the form.
Parallel and curved brush strokes are used for the blends.
Red-red-violet is the spectrum color for the monkey. White is added for the middle
value.
More white is added for the light value. The shadow color is the red-red-violet plus its
complement yellow-green.
The colors for the bell lyre are violet-blue-violet with a trace of its complement,
yellow, plus white. The mixture is already dark so white is added for the middle value.
More white is added for the light value.
The penguin's feet are orange-yellow-orange with a trace of blue. White is added for
the light value. More blue is added to the middle value to make the dark value.
The black for the penguin is actually blue with orange added. Additional white is
added for the penguin's belly values and for the teapot's top and bottom.
The background values are placed. Three values of white with yellow and violet will
create the flat receding surface of the floor. One value of white with more violet and
yellow added creates the back wall that is parallel to the canvas.
The values are blended.
Last the cast shadow values are placed. The color of a cast shadow is the
complement of the color of the light. The orange (with some blue) cast shadows
indicate a cold light.
The blends finish the painting.
So now you have learned to mix your colors. You know how to create shadow
colors and highlight colors and all the transitions in between.
Here the intensity of the colors of the leaves creates the impression of near and far.
The most intense colors are always in the foreground.
Spheres and cones from smooth to rough, the value shapes within the forms create
the illusion of three dimensions.
Landscape paintings begin with the things farthest away in this case the values of the
sky.
The three values of the clouds are blended with a Flat and Filbert sable brushes, to
create the softest textures.
The ocean values are put in. As colors recede they become less intense so the blue
ocean at the horizon has more orange in it than the blue ocean in the front.
All receding colors become less intense. Their complements are added as their
distance is increased.
The grass in the distance is the same color as the grass in the on the hill but because
it's farther away it is less intense. The yellow-orange of the grass has its complement,
blue-violet, added as it is seen farther away.
Texture begins. The edge of a Flat brush is used to begin the grass.
The darks of the trees are placed first here to further define the drawing. The edge of
a Flat bristle brush is used.
Next the lights are placed.
And the middle value completes the form. Notice the change in intensity of the grass
colors in the distance, on the middle hill and in the foreground.
This is the first layer of paint. Oil paint is well suited to working in layers if you want to
improve an area or add something else, wait three days for it to dry before adding
new paint.
With your review of the basic information and the completion of these four
exercises you should have enough different types of painting experiences to
be equipped to paint anything you want. So what are you going to do? You can
send me a photo if you like.