INTRODUCTION

         It is Incorporated has now developed a system (a program) that will allow a
manufacturer or user to knit fabrics to fully understand and control the selection of yarn
and knitting machine through Machine dia, M/C Gauge, Yarn Count, Stitch Length,GSM
processing.

A manufacturer or user of cotton knit fabrics accumulates large amount of data as related
to dimensions of the fabrics (such as weight, width and shrinkage). This presentation will
show that knit fabric performance can be predicted and understood from empirical data
gathered from those fabrics. Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibers and yarns that
has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the
assembly useful mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but
the term includes assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven
processes and tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and
machines which are related to knitted fabric production.

A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and

system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the
requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends
per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of knitted
fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered.
The project our work is Product development of knitted fabric and other related machine
specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of required
G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally maintained in
industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any order comes
which didn’t produced in previous.
Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop
length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.
We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop length,
machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib fabric.
Aims of the project work are the following:
 Find out relation between yarn count and GSM.
 Find out the logic of selection of stitch length selection.
 Selection of machine diameter and machine gauge to get specific width of fabric.

Flow Chart of Knit fabric development:

Bayer Sample choose

Receive

Analyses
Yes/Not for check

Point to point Analyses

Machine selection

Design selection

Yarn selection

Sample knitting(Check list ,Design check,GSM check)

Sample Dyeing

After finishing treatment

Shrinkage,Fastness,Spirality

Check the design after dyeing

Not Ok

If OK send to the bayer

If sample approved send it for the production

Order confirm

From marketing send a balk order

Start for the production

Buyer sample choice :-

This is the first step for development a knit product.Buyer give a sample or
knitting production to manager or merchandiser choose the samplewith his
exorience.
Receive sample :-
Knitting production manager receive the sample from merchendiser.Before
receiving the sample the manager vizulize the sample by his experience.For
this process highly experienced person is need The maneger should be
highly experienced about 3 to 5 year.
Yes/Not for check :-
After vizulizing the sample the manager say yes or not for check.this is
totally depends on knitting manager.if he thought this design can be made by
this machine he say yes or he thought can not be produce he say not to
merchandiser.
Check the design after dyeing :-
The design should be checked after dyeing because some faults are
prominent after dyeing.Such as relavation of fabric increase spirality,shade
variation,fabric bow & skewness, GSMcna be changed after dyeing.For this
reason fabric should be rechecked after dyeing.
Not ok:-
After checking the sample is not similar with the buyer sample the knitting
manager again point to point analyse the sample & try to remove the
previous fault such as proper m/c selection,yarn selection,knitting,dyeing
&finishing fault.
If ok send to buyer :-
After checking the sample design after dyeing if it is similar with the buyer
sample then the knitting maneger send the sample to merchandiser & the
merchendisre send the sample to buyer & wait for approval.
If the sample approved send it for the production :-
When the merchandiser get approved sample he send it knitting manager for
bulk production & wai for conform order which amount of fabric need for
buyer.
Order conform :-
Then the merchandiser deal with the buyer for conform the order.Buyer
inform the merchandiser what amount of fabric he need.

DISCUSSIONS
          Obviously, the most critical considerations for developing a product are the
construction variables on the knitting machine and the length processing tensions applied
in the dyehouse. In this study, different combinations of constructions, yarns, machines,
and finishes were evaluated. The basic constructions studied were single jersey, interlock,
single pique and 1x1 rib. Evaluations were performed in the greige and after each
separate processing step throughout dyeing and finishing. Analysis of all this data yielded
"K-Factors" which relates the structure to its processing. These factors became the basis
for the predictions of fabric performance.
          "K-Factors" are constants derived from empirical data measured in the reference
state. The data most important are those of stitch length, yarn count and the courses and
wales per inch. The "Reference State" of a fabric is the dimensions of the substrate when
it will not shrink any further. "Reference state" is also known as the "relaxed state." The
consumer is normally the only person who experiences the fabric in this state of
normalcy. Reference conditions are reached when the fabrics have been washed and
tumble dried until no further shrinking occurs. On nearly all fabrics, this state will be
achieved after five cycles of washing and tumble drying.

                   Cotton Incorporated believes that to be most effective, each plant must
calculate the "K-Factors" for each of their processing lines. For example, a continuous
bleaching range may result in a different reference state for the same greige style than
will an overflow jet when both fabrics are extracted, dried and finished in the same
manner. In fact, the greige fabric "K-Factors" will not match the "K-Factors" of either of
these processing routes. Therefore, the same greige style processed on these two systems
will yield different shrinkage values when

finished to the same weight and width specifications. Conversely, all 100% cotton fabrics
knit of the same construction (i.e. jersey) from the same spinning system (i.e. ring spun)
and processed through the same dyeing and finishing systems would have the same "K-
Factors."

          Currently, using the "K-Factors" cited in the literature plus a new one based on the
fabric yield. These factors are defined as: "Ks" for stitch density (the product of the
courses per inch times the wales per inch), "Kw" for width and wales per inch (WPI), "Kc"
for length and courses per inch (CPI), "Kr" for the ratio of CPI to WPI, and finally, "Ky"
for the yield (ounces per square yard). For this discussion only the Kw, Kc and Ky will be
used.

          The factor, Kw, for the wales per inch and width is derived from the relationship
that says that the wales per inch in the reference state are inversely proportional to the
stitch length. The mathematical value of the proportion is the constant ("K-Factor"). The
equation is expressed as follows:

Wales per inch = Kw   or  WPI = Kw

    Stitch length, L         L
               
therefore, Kw = WPI x L          

          The factor for the courses per inch and length is derived from the relationship that
says that the courses per inch in the reference state are inversely proportional to the stitch
length. The value of the proportion is the constant. This equation is expressed as follows:
 Courses per inch = Kc   or   CPI = Kc

    Stitch length, L           L
               
therefore, Kc = CPI x L          

          The factor for the yield is derived from the relationship that says the ounces per
square yard in the reference state are inversely proportional to the product of the yarn
count and the stitch length. This equation is expressed as follows:

Ounces per sq. yard = Ky  or  Oz/yd2 = Ky

    Yarn count x L           Ne *L
              
therefore, Ky = Oz/yd2 x Ne x L          

          These equations have been used by Cotton Incorporated to calculate factors for
100% cotton single jerseys, interlocks, single piques and 1x1 ribs on the different dyeing
and finishing processes in its pilot dyeing and finishing laboratory as well as for
production facilities. For this discussion, only the constants for a series of single jersey
fabrics which were processed in a mill will be discussed. Two different processing
sequences will be discussed. The first sequence consists of preparation and dyeing in an
overflow machine, balloon pad extraction, relaxed drying on a conveyor dryer an
compaction. The second procedure is one of continuous bleaching, pad extraction,
suction drum drying and compaction.

          These "K-Factors" for dyed single jersey were based on four gauges of jersey
knitting with eight different counts of yarn at three different levels of stitch tightness.
Each fabric had its "K" values calculated after

compaction, and these were all averaged together for each gauge to create the "K-
Factors" used in the program. It was found that all gauges had the same "K-Factors."
These values are shown below:

"K-Factors"* for 100% Cotton Single Jersey

Kw = 4.170

Kc = 5.785

Ky = 15.670

*Overflow Jet dyed, pad extracted, relaxed dried and compacted tubularly.
          The best way to show these relationships is by the use of "X-Y" graphs. Figures 1,
2 and 3 show the plots for Kw, Kc and Ky respectively. 

Figure 1. gives the plot for Kw. Each data point represents a different machine gauge and
yarn count knit at different stitch lengths. The wales per inch in the reference state (Y-
axis) are plotted against the reciprocal of the stitch length (X-axis). The best fit for the
slope of the line is the constant value Kw = 4.170. These data points have an R-square of
0.996 which is excellent.

Figure 1.

Figure 2. gives the plot for Kc. The courses per inch in the reference state (Y-axis) are
plotted against the reciprocal of the stitch length (X-axis). The slope of the line is the
constant value Kc = 5.785. These data points have an R-square of 0.993 which is also
excellent.

Figure 2.

.
Figure 3. gives the plot for Ky. The ounces per square yard in the reference state (Y-axis)
are plotted against the reciprocal of the stitch length multiplied by the yarn count (X-
axis). The best fit for the slope of the line is the constant value Ky = 15.670. These data
points have an R-square of 0.989 which is excellent.

Figure 3

Once the "K-Factor" values have been developed for a plant process (a grouping of
machines such as jet, extractor, dryer, etc.), a simple computer spread sheet program can
be written to predict the weight, width, courses per inch, wales per inch and shrinkage for
any fabric that would be processed through that particular sequence of operations. Other
data could also be generated if needed on the same spreadsheet, such as, costs, production
time at different efficiencies, etc. In fact, the written program can be as comprehensive as
desired by the manufacturer.

DEMONSTRATION
          A simple demonstration is shown in the following text. For this example, it is
desired to produce a 100% cotton single jersey fabric on a 20 gauge knitting machine of
18 inch diameter with 1104 needles using an 18/1 carded ring spun yarn at a stitch length
of 0.166 inches. The targeted weight and width for the fabric after jet dyeing

and finishing would be 5.0 ounces per square yard at 22 inches tubular with maximum
shrinkage of five by five percent length by width. Our plant would use an overflow jet for
preparation and dyeing followed by balloon pad extraction, relaxation drying on a
conveyor belt dryer, and compaction as the final finishing step. As shown in the
"DISCUSSION" segment of this paper, "K-Factor" values have been established for this
processing sequence. Therefore, a simple spreadsheet program using these "K-Factors" in
the calculations was used to predict whether this knitting setup processed on these
dyehouse machines would meet the requested yield, width, and shrinkage values.
Figure 4 is a printout of the spreadsheet without the data being entered. The program
allows for the construction parameters of cut, diameter, needles in the cylinder, yarn
count, and stitch length to be entered as standard or given values (shown in the upper
portion of the printout). The course length needed to produce the specified stitch length
for one revolution of the knitting machine is calculated and displayed beneath the stitch
length. The computer then calculates the reference state and lists these values in the lower
left-hand box of Figure 4. Once the desired shrinkage values are entered in the lower
right hand box, the computer then calculates the "delivered" dimensions of weight, width,
courses, and wales per inch to give the desired shrinkage values.

Figure 4

ENGINEERED KNITTING SINGLE JERSEY - RING SPUN -

PROGRAM DYED

Cut
Diameter 
Construction Parameters  
 
Needles

  Given
Yarn Count  
Stitch Length  
Course Lenth 0.00
Product Specifications
  % Length % Width
Shrinkage
   
REFERENCE STATE , given
  Method A   DELIVERED Method A
Width 0.00   Width 0.00
CPI ERR   CPI ERR
WPI ERR   WPI ERR
Oz/d2 ERR   Oz/yd2 ERR
Method A is based on the stitch length being given.

Figure 5. shows that when the cut, diameter, the number of needles, yarn count, stitch
length, and shrinkage requirements are entered, the program will calculate the delivered
and reference weights, widths, and stitch counts for the fabric. This data shows that with
the specified stitch length and yarn count, a fabric of 4.73 ounces per square yard at 23.13
inches tubular would be delivered to give (5 x 5)% shrinkage. As is realized, this would
not be acceptable because a 5.0 ounces per square yard fabric at 22 inches tubular was
specified.

Figure 5

ENGINEERED KNITTING SINGLE JERSEY - RING SPUN -

PROGRAM DYED

Cut
Diameter20
Construction Parameters 18
1104
Needles

  Given
Yarn Count 18.00
Stitch Length 0.166
Course Lenth 183.26
REFERENCE STATE Product Specifications
  Method A   % Length % Width
Width 21.97 Shrinkage
5 5
CPI 34.85 , given
WPI 25.12   DELIVERED Method A
  Width 23.13
   CPI 33.11
  WPI 23.8
Oz/d2 5.24   Oz/yd2 4.73
Method A is based on the stitch length being given.

Figure 6.. shows that when Method B is added to the program, the desired width can be
entered into the set of "givens" and the computer will calculate the stitch length needed
for the yarn and machine specified to give the desired shrinkage and width. The new
stitch length is shown under "Calc." in the upper half of the spreadsheet. The data in
Figure 6. gives a delivered yield of 4.98 ounces per square yard at 22 inches with five
percent shrinkage in both the length and width directions. This new stitch length would
be 0.158 inches and the new calculated course length from which to set up the knitting
machine would be 174.31 inches. This revised stitch length gives a yield of 4.98 ounces
per square yard which would be acceptable.

Figure 6

ENGINEERED KNITTING SINGLE JERSEY - RING SPUN -

PROGRAM DYED

Cut
Diameter20
Construction Parameters 18
1104
Needles

  Given Calc.
Yarn Count 18.00 18.00
Stitch Length 0.166 0.1579*
Course Lenth 183.26 174.31
REFERENCE STATE Product Specifications
   % Length % Width  
Shrinkage
5 5  
, given
Metho Method
Metho   DELIVERED
  Method A dA B
dB
Width 21.97 20.90   Width 23.13 22.00
CPI 34.85 36.64   CPI 33.11 34.81
WPI 25.12 26.41   WPI 23.8 25.09
Oz/d2 5.24 5.51   Oz/yd2 4.73 4.98
Method A is based on the stitch length being given.
Method B is based on the delivered width and shrinkage being given.

Figure 7. gives yet another analysis that is beneficial to the manufacturer. It may be
desired to use the greige goods with the stitch length of 0.166 inches and also finish the
goods to 5.0 ounces per square yard at 22 inches. Obviously, if this is accomplished, the
shrinkage cannot be five by five percent. Method C is used to allow for the original stitch
length to be used with the weight and width targets kept as specified. The program then
calculates the shrinkage values that would result and shows these in the lower right hand
portion of the spreadsheet next to "Calc. Method C." The resulting analysis gives
shrinkage values of 4.55% in the length by 0.12% in the width.

Figure 7.

ENGINEERED KNITTING SINGLE JERSEY - RING SPUN -

PROGRAM DYED
Construction Parameters
Cut
Diameter20
18
1104
Needles
   Given
Yarn Count 18.00
Stitch Length 0.166
Course Lenth 183.26
Product Specifications
%
  % Length  
Width
Shrinkage 5 5  
, given
Calc. 4.55 0.12  
Method C
Metho Metho
REFERENCE STATE   DELIVERED
dA dC
  Method A&C   Width 23.13 22.00
Width 21.97
  CPI 33.11 33.27
CPI 34.85
  WPI 23.8 25.09
WPI 25.12
Oz/d2 5.24   Oz/yd2 4.73 5.00
Method A is based on the stitch length being given.
Method C is based on the stitch length, weight and width being given.

          This has been a very simple demonstration as to how the Engineered Knitting
Program can be used. Other calculation methods can and have been written to predict
which yarn counts, machine diameters, etc. should be used under different delivered
specifications.

Design & Development

In engineering associates can assist from concept to completion in developing and

manufacturing product, working with you to ensure that buyer exact requirements are
met. Whether they need design support, prototypes or product evaluation, experienced
engineers with professional training in fabric technology are ready to assist. Expertise
and experience allow us to successfully complete projects that are too complicated for
many others.
Manufacturers are ready to help complete project no matter what stage it is in.
Commitment to flexibility allows to react quickly to their needs. If they looking for a
completely new source for their product, if it is seasonal, or just need help occasionally
with overflow we can help.

Product Engineering

At Core Products International can help design and develop idea from concept to
distribution. No matter what stage product-it will help bring ideas to life, help engineer
product and provide a professional product. It is goal to work hand in hand with in every
aspect of developing and delivering product.

CAD Drawing and Patterns

It full size, full scale CAD system ensures that every pattern is perfect, and brings
unlimited flexibility in quickly making design changes.

Pre-production Samples and Prototyping

It will provide with initial prototypes that will redefine and make necessary changes to
after buyer have tested it. It will then provide with a final sample for their complete
approval.

Design Documentation
Engineering staff follow a detailed documentation process with every product Core
manufactures. When a product is complete and ready for production, a final design
document along with a product control will be brought to the production staff for training
and quality assurance.

Core Products follows the guidelines set by ISO9000 for documentation making
products easily CE Certified.

Jig and Fixture Design

Its ability to design custom jigs & fixtures ensures that you will get your products made
correctly every time at the best price possible.

CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

          Manufacturers of knitted products should be using some method to determine if
they will have success meeting their customer specifications without having to knit, dye,
finish and test every candidate. Computer prediction systems are already on the market
that will give the manufacturer a good idea of what they can or cannot do. This
presentation has attempted to show the industry that they already have the information
available to them within their operations to also develop a program that will be specific to
their actual production facilities. Evaluation of their fabrics and facilities by these
methods will pay dividends if only as a result of them better understanding what goes on
in their operations.

          Because "K-Factors" are based on goods actually processed through a particular
grouping of wet processing equipment, they indicate levels of performance actually
achieved. This system of "engineering cotton knits for performance" will give the
manufacturer a good indication of whether he will be successful in his efforts. Other
considerations include the incorporation of techniques for cutting and sewing in an
apparel operation into the analysis of "K-Factors." In addition, there are indications that it
may be possible to predict the performance of resin finished cotton knits by the use of
"K-Factors." At the worst, this systematical approach will allow the knitter/finisher to:

 develop specific products for specific customers,

 fine tune specific wet processing equipment,
 incorporate cut-and-sew processes into the fabric processing flow, and
 will drastically reduce the required testing of the fabric for shrinkage
because shrinkage will be predictable.

Fleece knitting Machine:

 Selecting Your Knitting Machine
Selecting your knitting machine should be done carefully.  Consider the manual, punch
card and electronic/computer ready knitting machines.

When the decision has been made that you must have a knitting machine for yourself, the
decision making has really only just begun. Knitting machines are not like sewing
machines. It seems like we were born with the basics of sewing machines. Knitting
machines are intimidating pieces of equipment with buttons, springs, wires and hooks
enough to contact the outer world!
The Manufacturing Process of Fabric
There are three basic steps required for fabric production. The first step in creating fabric
is yarn production. Here, the raw materials that have been harvested and processed are
transformed from raw fibers into yarn and threads. This is done by spinning the fibers.
Spinning can be done by hand, but this process is quite tedious and time consuming.
These days, the vast majority of spinning is done by spinning wheel. The fibers are drawn
across the wheel, and as it spins, the fibers are collected on a cylindrical object called a
bobbin. The bobbin holds the spun fibers, which are now connected into a long strand of
thread or yarn. In the next step, the bobbins will be transferred to another machine, where
the yarn will continue on its journey into fabric.

After the raw materials have been converted into yarn, they're ready for the second step in
the production process, which involves joining these individual threads together to form
fabric. This process of joining the yarn together is called weaving. Weaving is done on a
machine known as a loom and requires two sets of yarn. The first set, called the warp set,
is strung tautly across a metal frame. The second, called the weft, is connected to metal
rods, with one thread per rod. The loom is controlled by a computer, which lets the weft
know how the fabric should be woven.

After the fabric has been woven, it's removed from the loom and is ready for the final
step: processing. Fabric that's fresh off the loom is called greige, and it looks nothing like
the crisp white sheets or clothing you're used to. It's discolored and full of impurities,
seed particles and debris. Before it can be transformed into useful textiles, it must be
cleaned. First, it's treated with bleach to purify the base color. Next, it's treated with a
variety of chemicals and cleaners to remove oils, wax and other elements that are
naturally occurring in most fibers. Finally, it's ready to be shipped out to clothing and
textile manufacturers.

In addition to loom weaving, there are other methods for

joining fabric, including knitting and crochet. While both
are traditionally associated with wool materials, crochet is
also common with lace production. Both are traditionally
done by hand. Hand looms are also widely used throughout
the world, and hand-woven textiles tend to be very popular
with consumers

. Order sheet
  fabric name: Diamond Mesh
 75D 72 filament-2ply-feeder No (2,3,5,6)

 75Dbright Polyester-1ply-feeder No (1,4)

 Composite: 97%micro polyester

WPI: 72

CPI: 96

Stitch Length: 11inch(initial)

                    =11*2.54

                    =27.94

                    =27.94/72

                    =.38810

                    =3.88mm

GSM: .235*882.6

            =207.41gsm

Cam setting

1------2-----3------4------5------6

K-----T-----K-------------K------K

------K-----K-------------K------K

------K-----K-------------K------K

------K-----K------K-----T------K

Needle setting
  fabric name: flece

WPI: 50

CPI:126

Stitch Length: 1inch(initial)

                    =1.1*2.54

                   = 2.79

                    =2.79/50

                    = .50*10

                    = .55mm

GSM: .367*882.6

            =323gsm

Count: 31Ne 

 fabric name: jacquard fabric

WPI: 32

CPI:50

Stitch Length: 3.5inch(initial)

                    =3.5*2.54

                    =8.89

                    =8.89/32

                    =.2778*10

                    =2.778mm
GSM: .212*882.6

            =187.11gsm

Count: 26Ne

 fabric name: Mesh

WPI: 28

CPI: 72

Loop Length: 30mm

Stitch Length: 3.4inch(initial)

                    =3.4*2.54

                    =8.36

                    =8.36/28

                    = .30*10

                    =30mm

GSM: .176*882.6

            =155gsm

Count: 73Ne
 Machine setting

 Machine  Yarn  Finished

 S/L  Finished Width  Fabric Type  Color
Dia*gage count GSM
 30”, 28  30/1  29  190  74”  F.Fly S/J  white
 30”, 24  30/1  28  230  76”Open  H.Fly S/La  white
 30”, 24  30/1  30  190  65”Open  F.Fly S/J  white
 38”, 18  40/1  28  160  64”Open  1*1H.Fly Rib  Avg
 30”, 16  20/1  31  300  60”Open  1*1H.Fly Rib  Avg
 38”, 18  20/1  29  300  44”Open  2*1H.Fly Rib  Avg
 30”, 26  40/1  31  200    Baby terry  Avg
 30”, 24  30/1  27  140  24”Tube  S/J  Avg

CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

          Manufacturers of knitted products should be using some method to determine if
they will have success meeting their customer specifications without having to knit, dye,
finish and test every candidate. Computer prediction systems are already on the market
that will give the manufacturer a good idea of what they can or cannot do. This
presentation has attempted to show the industry that they already have the information
available to them within their operations to also develop a program that will be specific to
their actual production facilities. Evaluation of their fabrics and facilities by these
methods will pay dividends if only as a result of them better understanding what goes on
in their operations.

          Because "K-Factors" are based on goods actually processed through a particular
grouping of wet processing equipment, they indicate levels of performance actually
achieved. This system of "engineering cotton knits for performance" will give the
manufacturer a good indication of whether he will be successful in his efforts. Other
considerations include the incorporation of techniques for cutting and sewing in an
apparel operation into the analysis of "K-Factors." In addition, there are indications that it
may be possible to predict the performance of resin finished cotton knits by the use of
"K-Factors." At the worst, this systematical approach will allow the knitter/finisher to:

 develop specific products for specific customers,

 fine tune specific wet processing equipment,
 incorporate cut-and-sew processes into the fabric processing flow, and
 will drastically reduce the required testing of the fabric for shrinkage
because shrinkage will be predictable.
 Process flow chart of Knit Product Development

Details of Flow chart:

Yarn Selection:

Yarn quality parameters

Evenness,
Breaking strength,
Elongation,
Twist,
Moisture contents,
Yarn winding,
Yarn lubrication,
Yarn hairiness is to be considered for quality raw material feed to
knitting.

(i) Suitable yarn count:

Selection of suitable yarn count should be based on:
a) Machine gauge
Yarn Tex = {100/G}2
b) Machine types which are having varied needle strength hook sizes and dial and
cylinder distances.
c) Knitted structures which are produced with from one feeder (Plain, rib etc.,) to 3 or 4
feeders (blister and multicolour jacquards). More number of feeders necessitates the use
of finer counts.
(iii) Yarn storage:
For the yarns to have sufficient moisture for processing, they should be stored at 20 oc and
65% RH. Storage under extreme temperatures must be avoided.

Higher temperature leads to paraffin migration and lower temperature leads to water
condensation.
Lot to lot variation is also a very important in handling quality matters, particularly after
dyeing.

(iv) Air conditioning:

Air conditioning of knitting plant prevents yarn dry-up, reduces yarn breaks (holes) and
improves the surface structure of fabric.
The recommended conditioning is 55% + 10% RH and 25o C + 3oC temperature.

Machine Selection:

Long lasting and trouble free quality functioning of the knitting machine could be
possible by proper maintenance care and lubrication.

Proper horizontal installation of the machine,

Tension free yarn feeding,
Flawless yarn guides and needles,
Exact cantering of needle bed towards one another,
Proper fabric take-off
And proper lubrication is the basic quality needs of a knitting machine

(ii) Machine setting:

Optimum setting is based on yarn type and knitted structure.
Following factors are to be considered during setting:

a) Balanced yarn tension prior and after to feeder.

b) Lower fabric take up tension.
c) Proper needle timings of dial and cylinder needles in order to obtain loose or tight
structures.

Finishing:
3. Experimental Work
As part of our experimental study we have collected information from various factories
having single jersey fabric, Lycra single jersey fabric, Rib & Interlock facility. The detail
information is discussed below.

3.1 Details of single jersey fabric.

The detail product information about single jersey fabric was collected from
Anlima textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in table :-1-4

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
30’S 0.260 150 21.13 15.92 96 2260 152.40

34’S 0.250 135 22.40 16.88 96 2260 147.32

30’S 0.265 145 21.13 15.92 96 2260 152.40

26’S 0.295 160 18.98 14.30 96 2260 162.56

30’S 0.270 140 20.74 15.63 96 2260 152.40

26’S 0.280 165 20.00 15.07 96 2260 157.48

24’S 0.270 180 20.74 15.63 96 2260 157.48

Table-1: Particulars of some widely produced single jersey fabrics (30" Dia and
24G).
Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish
count length G.S.M feeder needle width
in Cm of
fabric
in Cm
24’S 0.280 180 20.00 15.07 69 1734 121.92

24’S 0.290 170 19.31 14.55 69 1734 121.92

Table 2: Particulars of some widely produced single jersey fabrics (23" Dia and
24G).

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width
in Cm of
fabric
in Cm
30’S 0.290 140 19.31 14.55 72 1808 121.92

26’S 0.260 170 21.54 16.33 72 1808 121.92

Table 3: Particulars of some widely produced single jersey fabrics (24"

Dia and 24G).

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width
in Cm of
fabric
in Cm
26’S 0.290 160 19.31 14.55 108 2712 127.96
26’S 0.280 165 20.74 15.63 108 2712 195.58

Table 4: Particulars of some widely produced single jersey fabrics (36"

Dia and 24G).

3.2 Details of Lycra single jersey fabric.

The detail product information about Lycra single jersey fabric was
collected from Anlima textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in
table:-5-6

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
30’S+ 0.315 200 18.67 14.07 96 2260 162.56
20D
30’S+ 0.310 195 18.07 13.61 96 2260 165.10
20D
30’S+ 0.300 180 18.67 14.07 96 2260 165.10
 20D
30’S+ 0.320 190 17.50 13.19 96 2260 152.40
20D
34’S+ 0.308 180 18.18 13.70 96 2260 142.24
20D
30’S+ 0.320 210 17.50 13.19 96 2260 152.40
20D

Table5: Particulars of some widely produced Lycra single jersey fabrics (30"
Dia and 24G).

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
40’S+ 0.280 160 20.00 15.07 63 1582 99.06
20D

Table 6: Particulars of some widely produced Lycra single jersey fabrics (21Dia and
24G).

3.3 Details of single Lacost fabric.

The detail product information about Lacost was collected from Anlima
textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in table:-7-8

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
30’S 0.240 180 23.33 17.58 60 1508 121.92
30’S 0.245 170 22.86 17.22 60 1508 121.92

30’S 0.250 165 22.40 16.88 60 1508 121.92

26’S 0.255 200 21.96 16.55 60 1508 129.54

Table 7: Particulars of some widely produced single Lacost fabric (20" Dia
and 24G).

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
26’S 0.255 180 21.96 16.55 84 2110 182.88

26’S 0.250 200 22.40 16.08 84 2110 172.72

Table 8: Particulars of some widely produced single Lacost fabrics (28" Dia
and 24G).

3.4 Details of (1x1) Rib

The detail product information about (1x1) Rib was collected from Anlima
textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in table:-9

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
 Cm
24’S 0.275 235 20.36 15.35 68 4296 198.12

24’S 0.270 240 20.74 15.63 68 4296 198.12

24’S 0.280 220 23.14 17.44 68 4296 182.88

Table 9: Particulars of some widely produced for (1x1) Rib fabric (38" Dia
and 18G).

3.5 Details of (1x1) Lycra Rib

The detail product information about (1x1) Lycra Rib was collected from
Anlima textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in table:-10
Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish
count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
24’S+ 0.290 280 19.31 14.55 68 3416 152.40
30D
30’S+ 0.290 240 19.31 14.55 68 3416 137.16
40D
26’S+ 0.310 240 18.07 13.61 68 3416 137.16
40D

Table 10: Particulars of some widely produced for (1x1) Lycra Rib fabric (34"
Dia and 16G).

3.6 Details of Interlock fabric

The detail product information about interlock fabric was collected from
Anlima textile Ltd. and Micro Fibre Ltd. and is given in table:-11

Yarn Stitch Finish CPcm WPcm No. of No. of Finish

count length G.S.M feeder needle width of
in Cm fabric in
Cm
40’S 0.320 180 35.00 26.38 96 4520 152.40

Table 11: Particulars of some widely produced for interlock fabric (30" Dia and
24G).

3.7 Wales per Inches

A column of loops along the length of a fabric is called Wales. The number of visible
loops per unit length measured along a course. The traditional unit has been Wales per
inch but the value is now expressed as Wales per cm.

Wales

Figure 6: Photographs of the Wales per Inch.

Measurement of Wales per Inch:

We calculated the number of Wales in one inch with the help of counting glass
and needle. At first we selected the one square fabric and by the help of counting glass
we calculated the number of Wales per inch. The tested results are shown in tables Table
1.
 3.8 Course per Inches
A row of loops across the width of a flat fabric or around the circumference of a
circular fabric. In weft knitting the course may by one or more traverses of a feeder.
Some fabrics knitted on two needle beds have a different number of courses on one side
of the fabric from the other. The number of visible loops per unit length measured along a
wale. The traditional unit has been courses per inch but the value is now expressed as
courses per cm.

Course
Figure 7: Photographs of the Course per Inch.

Measurement of Course per Inch:

We calculated the number of courses in one inch with the help of counting glass
and needle. At first we selected the one square fabric and by the help of counting glass
we calculated the no. of courses per inch. The tested results are shown in tables Table 1.
3.9 Stitch length
An intermeshed loop is called stitch. The length of yarn in a knitted loop is known as
stitch length. In following figure colour portion refers to the stitch length of the knitted
loop.

Figure 8: Photographs of the Stitch Length.

Measurement of Stitch Length:

Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle loop and
half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent
needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that
which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. In order to
determine the stitch length, we count 100 number Wales or stitch and count its length by
hanging the yarn on the stitch length counters. The reading is found in mm unit.
We calculated the stitch length of the fabric. At first we selected the one square fabric
and by the help of counting glass we calculated the stitch length. The tested results are
shown in tables Table 1.

3.10 Measurement GSM

The standard measurement for weight and quality of fabrics is grams per square meter,
usually abbreviated as GSM. This is the accepted standard in the United States as well as
in foreign countries.

Figure 9: Photographs of GSM Cutter with GSM Balance.

The Grey GSM (Grams per square meter) is a very important parameter for specified a
certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight.
The production cost and selling and purchasing representing a certain quality of knitted
fabric. During experiment the using GSM cutter diameter is 14 cm.

We calculated the GSM of the fabrics. At first we selected the one square fabric and by
the help of GSM cutter we calculated the GSM. The tested results are shown in tables
Table: 12

Name of the Wales per Cm Course per Cm Stitch length Finish GSM of
sample per 100 the fabric
needles
S/Jersey 16.88 22.40 25.00 135
4. Discussion of result

4.1 Effect of stitch length on GSM of single jersey fabric

The table -1 to 4 and figure 10 to 11 shows that as the stitch length increases the GSM
decreases. This is due to the fact that as the stitch length increases the knitted loops
becomes larger so that both the course/inch and Wales/inch will decrease and the amount
yarn in the certain amount of fabric will decrease so that GSM will be lower.

GSM

185

180

175

170

165

160

155
28 28.5 29 29.5

Stitch length

Figure: 10 Effect of Stitch length on GSM (23” Dia, 24G,24’S

cotton)
 GSM

155

150

145

140

135

130

125
26 26.5 27 27.5

Stitch length
Figure: 11 Effect of Stitch length on GSM (30” Dia, 24G, 30’S cotton)
 .

4.2 Effect of Stitch length on GSM of Lycra single jersey

fabric
The table-5 to 6 and figure 12 shows that as the stitch length increases the GSM
increases. This is due to the fact that as the stitch length increases the knitted loops size
will increase but the tension on lycra will also increase so that the fabric shrinkage will be
higher as a result the GSM will be higher.
 215
210
205
200
195
190
185
180
175
170
165
30 31 31.5 32
Stitch length
Figure 12: Effect of Stitch length on GSM (30” Dia, 24G, 30’S+20D
cotton)

4.3 Effect of Stitch length on GSM of single Lacost

The table-7 to 8 and figure 13 shows that as the stitch length increases the GSM
decreases. This is due to the fact that as the stitch length increases the knitted loops
becomes larger so that both the course/inch and Wales/inch will decrease and the amount
yarn in the certain amount of fabric will decrease so that GSM will be lower.

GSM

185

180

175

170

165

160

155

150

145

140
24 24.5 25 25.5

Stitch length
Figure 13: Effect of Stitch length on GSM (38” Dia, 18G, 24’S
cotton
4.4 Effect of Stitch length on GSM of (1x1) Rib
The table-9 and figure 14 shows that as the stitch length increases the GSM decreases.
This is due to the fact that as the stitch length increases the knitted loops becomes larger
so that both the course/inch and Wales/inch will decrease and the amount yarn in the
certain amount of fabric will decrease so that GSM will be lower.

GSM

260

250

240

230

220

210

200

190
27 27.5 28 28.5

Stitch length
Figure: 14 Effect of Stitch length on GSM (20” Dia, 24G, 30’S
cotton)
4.5 Effect of Count on GSM of single jersey fabric
The table -1 to 4 and figure 15 shows that as the yarn count increases the GSM decreases.
This is due to the fact that as the yarn count increases the yarn is finnier and the fabric
will be lower weight so that GSM will be lower.

GSM

200
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
24 26 28 30

Count

Figure 15: Effect of Count on GSM (24" Dia, 24G machine and stitch
length 27.0)
4.6 Effect of change of stitch length on GSM

From the table 1-9 the change of GSM for 1 mm change of stitch was calculated and
shown in table:- 13 and figure:- 16. It can be seen in the table and graph that GSM is
highly affected by change in stitch length for Rib structure while the effect lowest for
single jersey. The effect of Lycra S/J, Lacost and (1x1) Rib is in between.

Fabric type Stitch length GSM

in mm
Single jersey 1 1

Lycra single jersey 1 1.5

Lacost 1 1.67

(1x1) Rib 1 2.67

GSM
 3

2.5

1.5

0.5

0
S/jesey Lycra S/J Lacost (1x1) Rib
Stitch
Length
Figure 16: Effect of stitch length on GSM for 1mm.

5. Defects in knitted fabrics

Some defects and causes in knitted fabrics are:

a. Holes or cracks
During loop formation, already broken yarn forms holes of different sizes

Causes
Bad needle, taken down mechanism too tight, high tension on yarn, bad yarn, needle too
tight in their slots, dial height too low or too high, badly tied knots, improper stitch
setting.

b. Drop stitches/cloth fall out

Yarn not properly laid in the needle hook.

Causes
Take down mechanism too loose, defective needles, too loose yarn tension not sufficient,
wrong needle timing set, and needle tricks closed

c. Vertical Lines
Longitudinal gaps in fabric-irregular space between adjacent Wales – broken appearance
in fabric.

Causes
Defective needle, dirt in needle slots, needle too loose or two tight in the tricks, needles
not enough lubricated.

d. Tuck or Double loops

Badly or non knitted loops, showing thick places or small beads in fabric – a shadow
appearance

Causes
Take down mechanism too loose, improper stitch cam setting, needle move too freely in
their slots, dial height too low.

e. Barre or horizontal stripes

Uneven courses traverse horizontally and repeat regularly or irregularly.

Causes
Bad yarn, uneven tension, yarn slippage in positive feed, improper stitch cam setting.

g. Bunching-ups/Piles ups
Fabrics appear as bands.

Causes
Fabric too tight, takedown mechanism too low, too much blister in the yarn.

h. Colour fly/tinges
Consists single fibres, bunches of fibres or yarn pieces of varying colours.

Causes
Congested machine installation, producing colour jacquards along with single colour
fabrics, processing a large number of colours.

i. Bow
Courses or rows of stitches curved instead of straight.

Causes
Dial tilted, fabric not level in takedown rollers, nip pressure not constant from end to end,
fabric spreader off centre or tilted.

j. Skew
Courses or rows of stitches straight but not at perpendicular to the fabric edges.
Causes
Mainly associated with take down rollers and spreader. At stenter, price ends not being
jointed course to course.

k. Needle trace
A properly knitted wale which, for a variety of reason stands out prominently from those
adjacent to it on either side.

Causes
A new needle which is tight in its trick, a worn trick about needle, tight latch.

l. Centre line
A line down the centre of the fabric

Causes
Fading of fabric along folded edge due to exposure to sun light.

m. Soiled yarn
Dirty streak or streaks along a course or courses

Causes
Contamination of cones due to miss handling, knot tying with dirty hands.

n. Rust mark
Reddy stain on fabric usually associated with a hole in fabric

Causes
Rusty needle, rust in tricks

o. Slub
Short bulky length of yarn, identified by broken end of thread.

Causes
Broken filaments being pushed back along the thread line excessive tails of knitter-knot.

p. Loop distortion
Distorted stitches lead to a very unsettle fabric appearance. The fabric appearance is
skittering.

Causes
Bad and bent needles, bent trick walls, uneven yarn tension, needle timing set wrong,
yarn carriers set wrong.