Infrared Remote Control Technology
Infrared Remote Control Technology
Infrared Remote Control Technology
IR remote control
General info
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Generally, there are two types of remote controls: infrared (IR), and radio frequency (RF).
Infrared remote controls work by sending pulses of infrared light to a device, while RF remote
controls use radio waves in much the same way. Pragmatically, the biggest difference between
the two is range. IR remote controls require a clear line of sight to the receiving device and their
range maxes out at about 30 feet (9.14 meters). RF remote controls can go through walls and
around corners, with a range of roughly 100 feet (30.48 meters).
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Most home entertainment components such as stereos, televisions and home entertainment
centers use IR remote controls. The remote contains an internal circuit board, processor, and one
or two Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs).
When you push a button on a remote control, it transmits a corresponding code to the receiving
device by way of LED infrared pulses. The idea is somewhat akin to flashing an SOS signal, but
instead of letters, the flashing LED light is transmitting a series of 1s and 0s. The “1” might be
represented by a long flash, while “0,” a short flash. A receiver, built into the component,
receives the pulses of light and a processor decodes the flashes into the digital bits required to
activate the function.
Along with the desired function, remote controls must also piggyback other data. Firstly, they
transmit the code for the device they are controlling. This lets the IR receiver in the component
know that the IR signals it is picking up are intended for it. It essentially tells the component to
start listening. The function data follows, capped by a stop command to tell the IR device go
back into passive mode.
Some remote controls can be very finicky, requiring the user point the remote directly at the
component. This is due to a weak transmitter. Changing the batteries can help, but if the
transmitter itself is poor, pulses are transmitted in a narrow beam. More robust IR transmitters,
and remote controls with double LEDs, transmit broader beams that allow the user to point the
remote in the general direction of the transmitter.
Sometimes it happens that a recliner or favorite spot on the couch does not have a clear line-of-
sight to the entertainment center or television. Often a coffee table or some other object is in the
way. When this happens we find ourselves raising an arm, trying to control the object “around”
the device. This can get quite annoying, but there’s an easy alternative.
Since light bounces off objects it is sometimes more convenient to point remote controls towards
a flanking wall or even the ceiling to change a channel or send a function command. The light
will bounce off the surface of the wall or ceiling and scatter. If you bounce it at an advantageous
angle, the scattering light will reach the component. Often it’s easiest, with elbow resting on an
armrest, to flip your wrist back and point the remote up at a wall behind you. This can work quite
well, even though the remote is pointing in the exact opposite direction of the component. Once
you find the easiest sweet spots around the room from which to bounce your signal, you can use
these instead of struggling with trying to get around your obstructed line of sight.
Garage door openers, alarm systems, key fobs and radio-controlled toys use RF remote controls.
RF remote controls work essentially the same as IR remote controls, except they use radio
waves. As stated, radio waves can also penetrate walls and go around objects and corners,
making RF arguably more convenient than IR.
Some high-end entertainment systems come with RF remote controls for expanded remote range.
There are also IR-to-RF remote control converters that allow IR remote controls to extend their
range through utilizing a RF translator that basically acts as a middleman. The RF converter
relays the IR signal in RF waves to get it further. The converter on the component side reverts
the RF signal back to IR so the component can understand it.
If you have been overrun by remote controls, you might consider a master universal controller.
Low-end universal remotes, available for about 10 US dollars (USD), will allow one to control
several devices. However, original remotes might still be required for accessing and controlling
advanced component features. Some high-end universal remote controls feature LCD screens
and are more like electronic pads than common remote controls. These universal master
controllers will eliminate the need to use original remotes, but may require some ramp-up to
learn.
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WHAT IS INFRARED?
Even that we can not see or hear infrared, we can feel it at our skin temperature sensors.
When you approach your hand to fire or warm element, you will "feel" the heat, but you can't see it.
You can see the fire because it emits other types of radiation, visible to your eyes, but it also emits
lots of infrared that you can only feel in your skin.
At the opposite side of the visible spectrum is the Ultra-Violet, above the blue light. U.V. (for short)
is dangerous for life, since it literally destroys cells without immediate alarm. UV is used to sterilize
tools, kill bacteria and germs, and it is responsible for skin cancer. We have no UV sensor in skin,
we can't see UV, so we are totally unprotected from UV. When you are exposed to sun's UV, mostly
from 11am to 3pm (UV rays angle enters easily at the Earth atmosphere), your skin is being hit by
a massive UV radiation and it leads to all sort of problems. Most severe sun burn is caused more by
UV than IR, you will only feel it hours later when your skin will respond to the intense UV attack,
red, hot, pain. In real, our body developed the skin's IR sensors as a way to protect ourselves from
the immediate danger, the fire, since during all the evolutionary process we were much more
exposed to fire (burning bushes, trees, forest) emitting lots of IR, than UV. As the sun also emits
IR, our body always used the IR sensors to indicate sun's intensity, forcing us to look for a shading
area, thus, protecting us from dangerous UV. Later on, tanning at the beach gain a new meaning,
sun's heat triggers the skin alarm sensors, but it is ignored and UV is all over your fragile skin.
Ignoring the danger people at the beach think that as hotter the better, well, better for skin cancer.
NOTE: Eprom erasers use a strong UV light, also known as "germicide lamp". This lamp produces
hundreds of times more UV than the sun at noon time, it can erase an eprom memory in minutes, it
would take many hours at the sun's light to do the same. Be VERY careful when dealing with those
lamps when emitting UV, it can cause SEVERE damage to your eyes or skin, even that the only
thing you see is a smooth blue light. Different from "night club's black light" lamps, UV (germicide
lamps) have the bulb made in crystal, regular fluorescent lamps (and the black light ones) use
regular glass. Glass is a bad conductor of UV, but crystal is very efficient, this is why germicide
lamps uses crystal, so UV can gets out and do its killing work.
INFRARED IN ELECTRONICS
The adventure of using lots of infra-red in TV/VCR remote controls and other applications, brought
infra-red diodes (emitter and receivers) at very low cost at the market.
This light can means something to the receiver, the "on or off" radiation can transmit different
meanings.
Lots of things can generate infrared, anything that radiate heat do it, including out body, lamps,
stove, oven, friction your hands together, even the hot water at the faucet.
To allow a good communication using infra-red, and avoid those "fake" signals, it is imperative to
use a "key" that can tell the receiver what is the real data transmitted and what is fake. As an
analogy, looking eye naked to the night sky you can see hundreds of stars, but you can spot easily
a far away airplane just by its flashing strobe light. That strobe light is the "key", the "coding"
element that alerts us.
Similar to the airplane at the night sky, our TV room may have hundreds of tinny IR sources, our
body, the lamps around, even the hot cup of tea. A way to avoid all those other sources, is
generating a key, like the flashing airplane. So, remote controls use to pulsate its infrared in a
certain frequency. The IR receiver module at the TV, VCR or stereo "tunes" to this certain
frequency and ignores all other IR received. The best frequency for the job is between 30 and
60kHz, the most used is around 36kHz.
So, remote controls use the 36kHz (or around) to transmit information. InfraRed light emitted by
IR Diodes is pulsated at 36 thousand times per second, when transmitting logic level "1" and silence
for "0".
To generate a 36kHz pulsating infrared is quite easy, more difficult is to receive and identify this
frequency. This is why some companies produce infrared receives, that contains the filters,
decoding circuits and the output shaper, that delivers a square wave, meaning the existence or not
of the 36kHz incoming pulsating infrared.
It means that those 3 dollars small units, have an output pin that goes high (+5V) when there is a
pulsating 36kHz infrared in front of it, and zero volts when there is not this radiation.
A square wave of approximately 27uS (microseconds) injected at the base of a transistor, can drive
an infrared LED to transmit this pulsating light wave. Upon its presence, the commercial receiver
will switch its output to high level (+5V).
If you can turn on and off this frequency at the transmitter, your receiver's output will indicate when
the transmitter is on or off.
Those IR demodulators have inverted logic at its output, when a burst of IR is sensed it drives its
output to low level, meaning logic level = 1.
The TV, VCR, and Audio equipment manufacturers for long use infra-red at their remote controls.
My first color TV in 1976 used an ultrasound (not infrared) remote control.
To avoid a Philips remote control to change channels in a Panasonic TV, they use different
codification at the infrared, even that all of them use basically the same transmitted frequency,
from 36 to 50kHz. So, all of them use a different combination of bits or how to code the
transmitted data to avoid interference.
Some standards were created. As illustrative material, we will only show one of them, the one used
by Philips, even that we can cover the other ones in the future.
First of all, Philips adopted or created the RC5 standard that uses fixed bit length and fixed quantity
of bits.
Each time you press a button at the Philips remote control, it sends a train of 14 bits, 1.728ms per
bit, the whole train is repeated every 130ms if you keep the button pressed
Each bit is sliced in two halves. The left and right half has opposed levels. If the bit to be
transmitted is one (1), its left side is zero while its right side is one. If the bit to be transmitted is
zero (0), its left side is one while the right side is zero.
(This is the right logic, reversed from what you can see at the IR receiver output.)
It means that the second half of the bit is actually the same meaning of the bit to be transmitted, as
you can see at the shaded blue right side of the bit as on, means bit transmitted = 1.
If you want to measure the correct logic level directly from the Receiver Output, you should
measure at the first half of the bit.
The correct interpretation, is that it changes level exactly at the middle of bit time. At the IR
Receiver output a bit Zero changes level from Low to Up, while a bit One changes level from Up to
Low.
There are a minimum quantity of incoming 27µs pulses to the demodulator understand it is at the
right frequency and then drop its output. The quantity of pulses used at the Philips remotes are 32
pulses per each half of the bit, 64 pulses per bit. So, a bit "0" to be transmitted it means 32 square
pulses of 27µs each, then 32 x 27µs of silence. The bit "1" is the opposite, 32 x 27µs of silence
followed by 32 square pulses of 27µs.
Our job here will be to decode the receiving of the waveform at the demodulator output. We could
observe the direction of the changing at the middle of the bit, if going down, means bit 0, going up,
means bit 1. But it is easy to sample the middle of the first half of the bit, so it directly tells us
what is the bit state, as we will see next in this text.
The Philips remote control sends 14 bits in sequence as you can see below. (I am sorry to need to
use more than your monitor width for the next picture, but it is to better view it).
(Figure 7)
You can see the 14 bits of the RC-5 system above. The RED bits are level "ON", while Blue are
"OFF".
The first two bits, #1 and #2, are called ACG calibration. They are "ON" level, and serve to
calibrate the IR Receivers Auto Gain Control.
In the Philips remotes, the bit #3 is the CHECK bit, every time you press a key at the remote, even
pressing repeatedly the same key, this bit flips state. This feature is interesting. Suppose you
pressed number "1" at the remote (trying to select channel 15 at TV) and holding it for 2 seconds,
then your other hand just blocks the InfraRed signal. The TV would receive two trains of pulses,
generated by your hand breaking a long train in two. Other systems would understand transmission
of two keys "1" selecting channel "11", but this do not happens in the Philips system. This bit flips
state every time you press a key, so blocking the signal with your hand doesn't change this bit, so
the TV will understand that still the same key pressed. To select channel "11" you should press key
"1" really twice.
The next 5 bits, #4 to #8, are used for SYSTEM ADDRESS, or to identify which kind of device should
execute the COMMAND bits. For example, TV set uses ADDRESS ZERO. Bit #8 is the Less
Significant Bit.
The next 6 bits, #9 to #14, are used for COMMAND information to the device selected at the
ADDRESS bits. Bit #14 is the LESS SIGNIFICANT BIT, and it is last transmitted.
For example, STOP key uses COMMAND #54 (36h in hexadecimal), bits #9, #10, #12 and #13
should be ON, bits #11 and #14 should be OFF.
To receive this signal using a microcontroller, follows the timing from the figure 7 above. Note
that the Infrared Receiver invert the bit signal, low level means bit ON.
During inactivity (no Infrared present) the output of the Infrared receiver is UP (bit zero).
You can connect the IR receiver output to any input port pin or interrupt pin of your microcontroller,
and keep polling it or prepare the interrupt routine to trigger your reading after the first low level
sensed.
When you press a key at the remote, it transmits the train of pulses, and your microcontroller will
receive bit #1 first. It will be sensed right after the middle of the bit when it changes from high to
low level to means bit "1". This is the first time that your microcontroller will "see" the incoming IR
signal.
You don't need to decode those first two bits, not even the CHK bit (except if you want to control
as the TV do and described above), so you can skip those 3 bits and start to receive the ADDRESS
bits. To do that, you need to skip 2.75 bits time, and you will be exactly at the middle of the right
level of the first ADDRESS bit to be read (non inverted level).
Figure 8
So, upon sensing the first low level, your software should wait 4.752 milliseconds and then start to
read the next 11 bits spaced 1.728ms each. The first 5 bits are Address and the next 6 bits are
Command, logic correct level, LOW = 0, HIGH = 1.
To make sure your software is waiting the correct timing, you need to use a dual channel
oscilloscope, and this procedure to adjust your software:
At your bit reading routine use an available microcontroller port pin and generate a fast pulse UP
and DOWN, then use one scope channel to display this pulse, and the other scope channel to show
the incoming signal from the receiver. Press and hold key number ZERO at the remote, and sync
the scope to show a complete wave form, don't worry with timing. The fast 11 pulses should always
be in place of those RED down arrows at the figure 8 above. It means that the "bit reading"
software routine will reading exactly in the middle of the correct bit level.
Your software will need to have two timing delays, the first to wait 4.752ms and the second to wait
1.728ms. Adjust the timing loop from the 4.752ms until the first fast pulse happens exactly as
indicated above. Then adjust the 1.728 ms timing delay in such way that the last fast pulse (#11)
bit reading happens exactly at the middle of the low part of the last bit (#14).
Check all other bits and fast pulses, they should be all matching ok. Small errors would be
accepted since the reading would be happening in the middle of the bit, few errors for more or less
is not a problem, but it is better to be the most possible in the middle of the low level of each bit.
This is why you should adjust your 1.728ms timing routine looking at the last data bit and fast
pulse, if they match somehow ok, all the other bits should be ok too.
Remember that any other remote key will generate a different pattern and it can confuse you. Use
always key number ZERO for this software calibration.
Once you find the correct timing delays, you can replace the FAST pulse instructions with NOPS
(check your chip instruction set to keep the same clock count wasted), or keep the fast pulse there
just for fun, so you will be able to recheck it in case of problems.
Reading the 11 bits is easy. Just shift them left into a 8 bits register and ignore the high order 2
bits #7 and #6 (AND 03Fh instruction), keep only the COMMAND last 6 bits... You will not want to
decode the ADDRESS bits, are you? The TV remote control will always send Address Zero, you
know that, right?
Here few examples of the complete waveform (14 bits) at the Receiver Output:
SAFETY
If you want to include some safety (recommended), check bits #7 and #6 for ZEROS, if it is a
Philips TV remote. You can also not use the 4.752ms delay, instead, wait only 3/4 of a bit time,
and then start to read from the bit #2. You will suppose the first one was a "1" and the second
should be a "1" too, if not, discard them, wait 60ms and activate reception again, you should sync
correctly at the beginning of the next train of pulses. But even this way, you could read wrongly a
"1" bit followed by another if the reading start anywhere in the middle of the train.
To make sure your controller is never starting to read the train in the middle, you can discard the
first reading always after a long silence (half second or more), so you will make sure that the
second reading will be in sync. To do that, after idling for more than half second, enter in a special
sync routine and upon sensing the first LOW level bit (can be the real first or not), wait 60ms and
jump to the real receive routine and start to monitor the Receiver output again. It means that the
first train will be used just to make your receive routine to engage in a correct timing to read the
second train of pulses.
Remember that there is a delay of 105ms between pulse trains, so doesn't matter which LOW bit
you sensed, waiting 60ms will put your reception routine in the middle of the silence between pulse
trains, allowing it to sync at the first bit of the next train of pulses.
AT89C2051 IR RECEIVER
The following circuit and code were used in one of our equipment, using a remote control for
mechanical positioning. The At89C2051 were selected by fast coding and low cost. Today probably
I would use an small Tinny AVR unit. The software listing below was stripped from other non
essential coding, necessary to our machine, but not necessary here.
; TRANSMITTER CONFIGURATION:
; --------------------------
; PINS 2,3,6,7,8,9 & 11 TIED TOGETHER TO DRIVE IR LED
; PINS 16-19 KEYBOARD MATRIX DRIVE (4 PINS)
; PINS 14 & 15 KEYBOARD MATRIX RETURN WITH PULL UP
; CRYSTAL 6MHZ
; RESET CONTROLLED BY FET BS110, DIODES FROM KEYBOARD.
; PIN 12 GOES TO GROUND WHEN IN POWER OFF
;------------------
; Receiver
;------------------
Led BIT 0B5h ; P3.5
IrInput BIT 0B3h ; P3.3
Scope BIT 0B4h ; P3.4
RxTx BIT 0B7h ; P3.7 ; Grounded if Receiver/High if TX
;------------------
; Transmitter
;------------------
TXLED EQU P3 ; FF = Off, 00 = On
KO1 Bit 097h ; P1.7 Keyboard Output
KO2 Bit 096h ; P1.6
KO3 Bit 095h ; P1.5
KO4 Bit 094h ; P1.4
KI1 Bit 093h ; P1.3 Keyboard Input
KI2 Bit 092h ; P1.2
;======================================;
;
; P H I L I P S R E M O T E
; CODE "10" AT AV6 UNIVERSAL PROGRAMMABLE REMOTE CONTROL
;
;======================================;
ORG 00H
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