8N Sleeve Removal

I had the same problem. Read all of the previous postings. Finally after trying to pull
the sleeves out intact (very difficult to catch the 0.040 lip) I crushed each and
removed them. Took about 15 minutes.

I ground an old Craftsman screwing tool, one with a 1/4 inch blade, to the
approximate radius of the casting and a slight radius on the bottom. Then very
carefully I tapped the 0.040 inch sleeve inwards from the top crushing it into the
cylinder with each tap. Since the screw driver is rather short I had to flip the block
and to the same thing from the bottom aligning the crush apex begin from the top.
The sleeves flaked and broke into pieces when I used a larger tool, like the one
pictured in the literature. This made it impossible to get a continuous crush.

I tried several other approaches and this seemed to work just fine.

I cannot recommend this procedure with the so called 0.090 sleeves but it seems to
work with the 0.040 sleeves. I'm rebuilding a replacement block. It already had the
sleeve for #1 removed. I noticed a small gouge in the #1 casting, looks like someone
used a similar method removing that sleeve, but was a bit more aggressive. So be
very careful not to gouge your casting.

Good luck.
 8N Fuel and Startng Problems

There was a fuel related starting problem when I first purchased my tractor. All of my
subsequent starting problems have also been fuel related. Either the fuel system plugs
from tank debris or fuel pours out of the air intake on the carb. The following float
adjustment procedure should be used to cure the flooding problem.

The fuel from the intake flooding problem is so common as to be the norm. The problem
is that the float valve is not closing. Either the float is hanging up on the side of the carb
housing or the needle valve is bad or has crud stuck in it holding it open.

This problem often starts in the gas tank where corrosion and crud builds up. Sometimes
it blocks the screen and you get no gas to the carb. A quick fix to this is to blow air
through the gas line and clear the blockage. If the crud gets to the needle valve and
blocks it open, you have the constant flooding problem. If the last guy tried to fix the
flooding problem and put a slight bend in the float, it hangs up and won't shut the valve.

Remove the carb and clean the outside of it with lacquer thinner. This will remove all of
the old varnish and grease. Soak it in a cut-off plastic jug and brush at the bad spots
every few minutes. When it's clean, remove the four screws that hold the carb body to
the throttle body. Discard the old gasket, remove the float and venturi (brass 'neck').
Pay attention to venturi orientation. Check the throttle shaft and choke shaft for
looseness. If they allow air to pass around the shaft, performance suffers and you
should replace the seals.

Completely disassemble the carb and soak it to remove deposits. I use a water-based
solvent that comes in a gallon can and has it's own parts basket. Available in auto parts
stores for about $10. If you are just replacing the float valve you may choose to bypass
this step.

Always replace the float valve needle and seat. It only costs a few bucks; why not? Use
the solid metal needle rather that the neoprene tipped type, it seals better. Check the
float ... sometimes it develops a leak and won't 'float'. Use compressed air to blow out
all passages.

Re-assemble the float valve and float without the venturi or new gasket. Hold the
throttle body up side down and observe the space between the float and the throttle
body. The surfaces should be parallel. Distance is important ... just over 1/4", less than
5/16". Now remove the float, carefully slip the venturi through the gasket and lay it in
place, then put the float back on. Screw the throttle body back onto the carb body.

Now you must check the float to make sure that it's not hanging up on the carb body. Do
this by holding the carb near your ear and quickly turning it over. You should hear a
"thunk" without any sound of metal scraping. Do this several times. Also, blow into the
gas inlet. Right-side-up air will pass easily. Up-side-down no air will pass. If the float is
hanging up, the valve won't seal and air will always pass. In this case you must disassemble
the body and try to bend the float just a little. Re-assemble and test again. Repeat this
process (a dozen times or more) until you get it right. Even new floats hang up ... must
have been a casting irregularity in the body. Anyway, you gotta get this right.

Use a new gasket when you mount the carb to the manifold. Initial settings on the
mixture screws are to turn them all the way in and then back each out 1 turn. With the
engine warm you can fine tune the mixtures.

The N series carb has 3 adjustments, the idle air screw (on the right side of the carb),
the main adjustment screw (on the front of the carb) and the throttle adjustment screw
(on the left side of the carb).

Any adjustment is useless unless the timing is checked and correct and the plugs are
clean.

Turn the main adjustment screw and the idle air screw in until you feel them "seat" -
don't force them, just finger pressure. Back each screw out one full turn. Start the
engine and warm it up fully. With the engine under medium to heavy load at half-throttle,
snap the hand throttle open to "full". The engine should pick up the load smoothly. If it
"coughs" or "stutters" unscrew the main screw about 1/8 of a turn and repeat until the
engine picks up smoothly. The main screw adjusts gas flow, not air.

Next, set the idle speed. With the hand throttle in the idle position, adjust the throttle
screw until the engine is running at 400 rpm.

Finally, set the idle mixture. Adjust the idle air screw, in or out, until the engine runs
smoothly at about 400 rpm. You may need to adjust the throtlle adjustment screw up or
down as you do this. Turn the idle air screw in or out until you find the points where it
starts to run rough (too rich and too lean a mixture) then put the screw halfway between
those points.

Check by running under load and idling to make sure everything works as described,
adjust as required.

You have to pull that brass packing holder out use a small screwdriver and gently pry the
new seal is installed with the open end in like all seals the choke bushing is the same
 Shermanparts.txt

Q: "What is a Sherman transmission?"

A: A Sherman transmission is an auxilliary gearbox that mounts in the cavity in front
of the transmission. They increase or decrease the speed of the input shaft to the
transmission to provide the tractor a whole other range of speeds. They were available

as a dealer installed option and came in overdrive, underdrive, and dual over/under
configurations.

The basic Sherman overdrive has a shift lever on the left front side of the
transmission case. This shifter is about a foot long with a small bend about 1/3 of
the way up and is made from 1/2" rod. It points upward and has an aluminum knob on
the end. Some Sherman overdrives were installed with a cable assembly to shift them.
This heavy cable comes out of the top right front of the transmission case and goes
to the lower right side of the dash panel where it ends with a black plastic knob.
Push the knob in for overdrive.

The Sherman over/underdrive transmission also has the shift lever on the left front
side of the transmission case. The lever attaches with an allen head cap screw and
runs horizontal with the case then makes an abrupt bend and sweeps back and up to
a small cast knob on the end. To view original Sherman literature and specs for the
over/underdrive combination transmission, (click here page 1) (click here page 2)
To view Sherman "step up" transmission literature, (click here)

Another not so common auxilliary transmission was made by the Hupp Company. The
shift levers for the Hupp units were on the right front side of the transmission
case and extend rearward. Like Shermans, they were also available in overdrive,
underdrive, and over/underdrive configurations. To view original Hupp sales
literature (courtesy of Ed Gooding) (click here page 1) (click here page 2)
[Top of Page] [Home page]

SHERMAN COMBINATION TRANSMISSION

STEP_UP STEP-DOWN
MODELS 519-3 AND 519-155
(Ford Model Numbers?)
or
MODELS 10A700B AND #1201
(Sherman Products, Inc. Numbers)

PARTS LIST

Ref No. Ford No. Source No. Description. Qty

.

1 5190035 10A134 Taper Bearing Cup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

2 5190027 B115A3 Magnetic Drain Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
3 5190063 10A701 Gear Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Assy 10A710 Gear Case Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
(Consists of Items #1, 3 & 42).
4 5190066 10A705 Drive Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Assy 5190089 10A730 Drive Gear & Bearing Assembly . . . . . . . . . 1
(Consists of Items #4, 5 & 6).
5 5190062 10A157 Oil Slinger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
6 5190044 10A177 Taper Bearing Cone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
7 5190077 10A717 Thrust Washer - S.D. Gear . . . . . . . . . . . 1
8 5190080 10A721 Thrust Washer - Cluster Gear . . . . . . . . . 1
9 5190085 10A726 Step Down Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
10 5190093 10A737 Roller Bearing (Cluster Gear) . . . . . . . . . 2
11 5190068 10A707 Cluster Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
12 5190094 10A754 Bearing Spacer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
13 5190046 10A741 Thrust Washer - Cluster Shaft . . . . . . . . . 1

Page 1
 Shermanparts.txt

14 5190069 10A708 Cluster Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

15 C-490239 304686-S Bolt, Hex, 7/16" - 14 x 1" (Kit of 20). . . . . 4
16 348O8-S 34808-S Lockwasher, 7/16n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
17 5190094 10A738 Shift Collar (Rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
18 5190087 10A728 Spline Sleeve (Long) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
19 5190067 10A706 Step-Up Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
20 5190088 10A729 Spline Sleeve (Short) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
21 5190086 10A727 Shift Collar (Front) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
22 5192694 E201A112 Snap Ring - Drive Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
23 5190081 10A752 Thrust Washer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
24 5190092 10A736 Roller Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
25 5190933 10A906 Clutch Shaft (For Model 519-155 or #1201) . . . 1
Assy 5190929 10A905 Clutch Shaft Assy (For Model 519-155 or #1201) 1
(Consists of Items #24, 25, 27 28)
26 5190065 10A704 Clutch Shaft (For Model 519-3 or #10A700B) . . 1
Assy 5190100 10A755 Clutch Shaft Assy (For Model 519-3 or #10A700B) 1
(Consists of Items #24, 26, 27 & 28)
27 5190091 10A733 Ball Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
28 5190095 E2OlA196 Snap Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
29 5190060 10A139 Main Oil Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
30 5190934 10A907 Support (For Model 519-155 or #1201) . . . . . 1
Assy 5190936 10A910 Support Assy (For Model 519-155 or #1201) . . . 1
(Consists of Items #29, 30 & 37)
31 5190045 10A702 Support (For Model 519-3 or #10A700B) . . . . . 1
Assy 5190101 10A765 Support Assy (For Model 519-3 or #10A700B) . . 1
(Consists of Items #29, 31 37) .
32 5190109 10A715A Shifter Rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
33 5190070 10A709 Shifter Finger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
34 5190104 10A768 Drilled Head Set Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
35 5190103 10A767 1/16" Dia Wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
36 5190096 10A743 Support Gasket . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . 1
37 --- Obtain locally --- Soc. Set Screw 1/" 20 x 1/2" . . . . . . . . . 3
3B 5193151 10A792 Shim .012 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .As req'
d
38 5193152 10A793 Shim .007 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .As req'
d
39 5193154 A901A3-S Soc. Head Bolt 3/8" - 16 x 7/8" . . . . . . . . 5
40 21441-S7 304705-S Hex Hd Bolt 7/16" - 14 x 1-1/8" H.T . . . . . . 4
41 5190064 10A703 Mountlng Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
42 5190476 54B358 Dowel Pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
43 5190076 10A716 Inter-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
44 5190935 10A908 Clutch Release.Spring (For Model 519-155 . . . 2
or #1201)
45 351809-S A902A1-S Soc. Hd Set Screw 3/8" - 16 x 3/8" . . . . . . 1
46 519O928 10A909 Hand Shift Rod (For Model 519-155 or #1201 only) 1
46 5190083 10A724 Hand Shift Rod (For Model 519-3 or #10A700B only) 1
47 34807-S 349C7-S Lockwasher 3/8" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
48 5190919 10A797 Welch Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
49 5190111 10A766A Shifter Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Assy 5190110 10A720A Shifter Cap Assy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
(Consists of Items #32 thu 35, 43, 45,
48 thru 52, 54 thru 58).
50 74174-S 74174-S Woodruff Key #405 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
51 5190073 10A712 Selector Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
52 5192806 E2OlA62 Snap Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
53 5190047 10A753 Rubber Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
54 5190920 10A798 Seal - Shifter Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
55 5190108 10A713A Selector Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
56 353081-S M118A3-S Detent Ball 5/16" Dia . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
57 5190061 1OB139G Detent Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Page 2
 Shermanparts.txt

58 5190090 10A731 Detent Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

59 34806-S 34806-S Lockwasher 5/16" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
60 20346-S 20346-S Hex Head Bolt 5/16 - 18 x 3/4" . . . . . . . . 4
61 5190106 10A719 Shifter Cap Gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
62 5190082 10A723 Mounting Flange Gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

INSTALLATION TOOLS

5190105 10A770 Installation Kit (Consists of Parts:

5190112 10A205 Hole Saw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190924 10A206A Hole Saw Arbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190921 10A209 Hole Saw Pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190097 10A746 Drlll Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190098 10A747 Shimming Test Collar . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190922 10A748 Allen Wrench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
89428-S 89428-S Headless Set Screw 5/16" - 18 x 3/8" . . . 1

5190923 10A775 Installation Kit (Consists of Parts:

5190097 10A746 Drill Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190098 10A747 Shimming Test Collar . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5190922 10A748 Allen Wrench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Page 3
 N Series Rear Axle and Brake Overhaul
After months of driving my tractor with no brakes, watching board postings, and researching the
archives, I got the courage to fix them. Here is the procedure I followed. Things seem to be
working, for now at least.

Safety (check archives)

Rear tires are generally filled with ballast, remove them using extreme care.

On a level surface, I removed 5 and slightly loosened the remaining 3 lug nuts, then raised the
rear of the tractor until its weight was on the floor jack. Then carefully walk the rear wheel from
the hub, roll it to the front of the tractor and rest it over the front wheel. Now set the rear of the
tractor firmly on the safety stand or adequate timber support.

Proper tools
socket set with 2 socket and cheater bar (30 to 36)
Axle Puller that attaches to lug nuts in 3 places
Floor Jack
Good Safety Stand (3 6x6x24 wood timbers)
Safety Glasses

Procedure (check archives)

Disassembly
Once the rear wheel is off, back off the brakes with a screw driver through the adjustment hole
using the star wheel adjuster until the drum spins freely. Remove the 4 brake drum safety screws
and the drum should slide right off. You can now see the damage done by oil and determine
which parts should be replaced.

The axle hub can now be removed. Dont use anything but the proper 3 point axle puller, I had to
search a little but finally found one to rent for $8. After removing the wire retainer, loosen the
main axle nut. This may require some effort, as the recommended tightening torque is between
400 and 500 foot pounds. I used a 2 socket wrench and a 30 cheater. This way my 160
pounds would give me the proper torque (2.5 x 160# = 400 ft lbs). Back the nut off but leave it
on the axle so the end is flush with the end of the axle shaft, if the hub pops it wont fly off.

Remove the brakes, taking care with the springs. My brake shoes were almost new, but covered
with oil and grease. I simply cleaned them (and all of the brake parts) with Brake Kleen, they look
and seem to work pretty good.

Remove the 4 studs and 2 bolts holding the axle seal brake support plate in place. Inspect the
seal and mating surface on the hub. I found mine seal to be good and polished the hub mating
surface. I dont believe much oil was leaking past the seal. I am convinced oil was leaking
though all of the other joints where there were no gaskets (see below).

Remove the end shaft seal cork gasket on the axle shaft up against the bearing (its the diameter
of the axle and about long p/n 4294). Finally remove 2 bolts holding the bearing retainer.
Remove the shim pak, backing plate and gasket but leave the axle and bearing on the tractor.

Assembly
You will want to make sure all of the joints that are exposed to oil have gaskets and are sealed
properly. I used Permatex silicone sealant on both sides of every gasket and shim. Clean all
shims and clean or replace gaskets. Check that the shim pak is adjusted properly. I believe this
adjustment insures the axle spins in the center thus is important to proper seal function.

Please verify this procedure:

Dry install the gasket, backing plate, gasket, shim(s), gasket, and bearing retainer. Remove
shims until both axle shafts spin the same direction when the opposite wheel is rotated
(transmission in gear). Add just enough shims so that the axle shafts spin in opposite directions
when the wheel is rotated.

Remove the above and clean, dry and re-pack the bearing with grease. Using a gasket sealer,
carefully seal both sides of each gasket and of each shim and install the bearing retainer using
the 2 rear bolts.

The parts sequence from the axle housing is:

Gasket(4130) -> Baking Plate -> Gasket(4130) -> Shim(s)(4229) -> Gasket(4130)
-> Bearing Retainer -> Gasket(4130) > Brake Support -> Gasket(4130)
-> Seal/Retainer -> End Shaft Seal (4294) -> Hub -> Washer -> Nut -> Retainer

Finish up by installing sealer and gaskets up to the hub seal. Attach the axle seal using the 2
support bolts and finally the 4 stud bolts and nuts.

Install the brake shoes and slip a new cork end seal up against the bearing. I put Permatex
sealer on the splines before I slipped the hub on the axle. Attach the hub and tighten the end nut.
The specification is between 400 and 500 ft lbs. (Being cautious, I snugged the nut and did a
final torque after the wheel was on.)

Next install the brake drum and adjust the brakes. Carefully re-install the rear wheel.

If you do this right and with a little thought and common sense, your axles should not leak.