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Contents AUGUST 2010

40
28 Features 20
35 20 LA BINOCHE
Juliette Binoche believes that women reach their prime in their forties, and she
definitely lives up to that with a career that just seems to keep getting better.
BY MARTIN GANI

28 GANG DAD
What is a father to do when his son becomes involved with a gang? In Jerry
Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking on South Los Angeles’
gangland. BY JIM CALIO

35 HEALING ART
Angola was once known for its civil war but today the country is a modern
democracy. Luanda, the capital, is gearing up to host its second Triennial that
aims to put the country on the art map. BY LOUISE REDVERS

40 MADRID’S GOURMET TOUR DE FORCE

The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour, fashion and beauty. Plus it
has a fantastic restaurant scene with some famous Michelin-starred chefs creating
culinary masterpieces. BY SCOTT ADAM

August 2010 1
 Regulars
05 TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters
08 WANDERLUST Los Gigantes, Canary Islands
10 WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise
12 WELL TRAVELLED Wilfred Thesiger
14 STREET STYLE São Paulo
16 MY WORLD Noriko Tsuiki, Living Treasure
18 CELEBRITY CITY Taher Qassim’s Liverpool
48 48 HOURS in Singapore
52 DUBAI DIARY The Hot List
54 COOL STUFF Mighty Sounds
56 DEPARTURE Lac Rose

Emirates News
59 The latest news and
information about Emirates,
helpful travel tips and its
global network.

12 48 54

COVER PHOTO: CORBIS

16 56
Published for Emirates by Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson Email: Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published
[email protected] Senior Editor Guido Duken Email: [email protected], Arabic Editor Ghoufran Fakhri Email: [email protected], herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy,
Deputy Editor Nick Rice Email: [email protected] Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza Art Directors Tarak Parekh, Rehab Barham please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is
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2 Open Skies
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 travelshorts
Yoga Helps Cancer Survivors CULTURE ICON
Cancer survivors might want to try yoga to improve
the quality of their sleep and promote energy levels,
according to a new US study. Researchers from the
University of Rochester Medical Center in New York
randomly selected around 400 cancer survivors who
had been treated with chemotherapy for breast cancer,
and assigned them into two groups. The first group
did gentle Hatha yoga and restorative yoga, which
included breathing and meditation exercises, while
members of the second group were merely observed
as they followed standard practice, which does not
include yoga. Participants who did yoga managed to
reduce the amount of sleeping pills and generally slept The tuk-tuk is Thailand’s ubiquitous three-wheel scooter bike,
better. Results also indicated a 22 per cent increase named after the sound of its two-stroke engine while idling.
in sleep quality on a commonly used scale. This was It is a popular mode of transport with locals and visitors alike
double the improvement of survivors who didn’t do the and has an edge over taxis because its compact size allows it
yoga exercises and postures. to nip through gaps in the traffic to decrease the travel time.
Moreover, yoga was shown The ride in this open-sided three-wheeler is as exciting
to decrease fatigue as it’s nerve-racking as there are no seat belts and they can
levels by almost half, rattle and jerk precariously. But it’s a fun experience and most
and contributed to visitors have it on their must-do list. Many tourists can be seen
a better quality of taking photos while sitting in this authentic Thai taxi.
life. “We really don’t Not only is the ride much cheaper than in a car but also
have any good pleasant if you are riding out of a smoggy town. Nothing beats
remedies for fatigue an early morning tuk-tuk ride through the tropical countryside
for cancer survivors,” with a cool wind on your face.
said Karen Mustian, the You can lean back and enjoy the ride but be sure not to rest
researcher who led the study. your feet on the rail near the driver’s head as in Thailand it is a
It is still unclear though taboo to touch people on the head or point your feet toward
how yoga achieves someone. Also it’s best to discuss the price before the journey
its relaxing effects. and drivers won’t take offence at haggling.

Superlatively Speaking
The Five Most Expensive Cities for Expatriates in the World
(In a comparative cost of over 200 items in each location, including housing, transport, food, clothing, household goods and entertainment.)

Luanda, Angola Tokyo, Japan Ndjamena, Chad Moscow, Russia Geneva, Switzerland
Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a
luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom
apartment: $7,000 apartment: $4,436.42 apartment: $6,000 apartment: $3,600 apartment: $4,010.75
Cup of coffee: $3.80 Cup of coffee: $6.65 Cup of coffee: $3.12 Cup of coffee: $8.29 Cup of coffee: $5.13
Two movie tickets: $26 Two movie tickets: Two movie tickets: $27 Two movie tickets: Two movie tickets:
Fast-food hamburger: $39.93 Fast-food hamburger: $26.53 $29.85
$17.50 Fast-food hamburger: $26.53 Fast-food hamburger: Fast-food hamburger:
$7.21 $5.67 $10.54

August 2010 5
travelshorts
The Gulf’s First Bicycle City
Cyclists in Doha have good
reason to get excited as the Qatari
capital is preparing to become
the region’s first bicycle-friendly
city. “We have worked out the
Qatar National Bicycle Master
Plan to make Qatar the centre
of bicycles in the Middle East,”
said Sa’ad Mohammad Khodr,
senior transportation engineer at
the Ministry of Municipality and
Urban Planning. According to a

ISTOCK PHOTO
statement he made at the Meed
Qatar Transport Project 2010, the
city has already started setting up
bike lanes by reconstructing the existing roads to facilitate bicycle
lanes, ensuring safety for cyclists. However, the large number of
roundabouts represents a challenge to the project. Khodr confirmed
that the plan includes both short-term and long-term solutions, such
as developing under-path cycle routes. “It’s not just the bicycle as
a means of transportation, but it’s about creating more chances
for people to have enjoyable leisure time,” he explained. Blessed
with year-round sunshine and perfect winters, Qatar’s climate will
encourage cyclists to use their bikes for daily trips, whether it’s for
ju·bi·lant
pleasure or commuting. Cycling is especially popular with young
showing great joy, satisfaction, or boys and Asian expatriates, who tend to favour it for getting to work.
exultant: the cheers of the jubilant victors;
Moreover, the activity is of great advantage to general health and will
the jubilant climax of his symphony.
have a significantly positive impact on the environment.

TRAVEL TIP WHEN IN ROME...

5 EASY WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR HOLIDAY PHOTOS In Japan, don’t start drinking
1. With a new camera, familiarise yourself with the functions before your until everyone at the table
trip. Read the manual and work out all the features. is served and the glasses are
2. When photographing a landscape, make the foreground interesting. raised to toast. The Japanese
You could have a rock, tree or even a statue in focus or a shot of a person drinking salute is usually
doing something relating to the landscape, such as a fisherman tending his ‘Kampai!’
nets against the backdrop of an ocean view.
In the Czech Republic, do wish
3. Go beyond the posed picture. Photos are about remembering moments, your dining partners ‘dobrou
not just places. Shots of companions in action will capture the fun of a trip. chut’, which is a general
4. Get as close as you can to your subject. Try to zoom in and fill your translation of Bon Appetit.
frame and get sharper images.
In Spain, do expect a kiss on
5. Plan your outdoor photos for the
each cheek (starting with the
first and last hour of sunlight. Midday
left cheek) or a hug from a
sun tends to make pictures flat and
woman you are familiar with.
shapeless. The day’s ‘golden hours’
Expect a pat on the back or a
give objects more shape and
quick hug from a man you are
definition.
familiar with.
 Official Agent
Abu Dhabi - Khalidia Mall, Abu Dhabi – Abu Dhabi Mall: 6452080,
Dubai - Wafi City, Burjuman (SAKS), Burj Al Arab, Dubai, Al Maktoum St., Tel: 2236525,
Emirates Tower, Madinat Jumeirah, Mina Al Salam,
Mall of the Emirates & Dubai Mall Royal Majesty, Al Ghurair City: 2275181

Kuwait: Majestic Palace: 2403239, Damascus: 011 - 3334930, Beirut: Damas: 01 - 330888, Bahrain: Asia Jewellers: 534444,
Turkey: Empire Istanbul: 212 - 2313542, Airport: 4654291, Singapore: Hysek Boutique: Unit # 01-57, The Shoppes at
Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue, Ph: +65 6688 7077, [email protected], www.hysek.com
 wanderlust

Los Gigantes, Canary Islands

If you have a head for heights or simply love stunning scenery, will realise just how enormous they are. Or, if you like heights,
then Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands, might be just the place you can walk along a trail close to Los Gigantes’ edge that takes
for you. Los Gigantes (The Giants) on the island’s west coast, about 25 minutes and finishes at the water’s edge. The early
is a popular resort town named after the vertigo inducing rock inhabitants of Tenerife thought that the cliffs were sacred and
PHOTO: CORBIS

cliffs that rise straight out of the sea to a height of 800 metres. ancient writers like Homer and Virgil believed that they marked
One way to get close to the cliffs is by boat, at which point you the end of the world. ❖

8 Open Skies
 worldcalendar

September 2010
Highlights of global events for the month ahead.

1-11, WEDNESDAY 15-26, WEDNESDAY

LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA INTERNATIONALES LITERATURFESTIVAL BERLIN
The hunt is on for the coveted Golden Lion as the This year Berlin’s 10th literature festival will focus on
67th Venice International Film Festival gets into gear. Eastern Europe. More than 100 authors from 50 plus
Expect some fireworks as Quentin Tarantino will chair countries participate in 200 events over 12 days,
the international jury. His colleague, John Woo, will allowing audiences insights into their work, prose
receive the Golden Lion Lifetime Achievement Award. and poetry.
labiennale.org literaturfestival.com

2-5, THURSDAY 16-19, THURSDAY

2010 FISA WORLD ROWING MASTERS REGATTA FINA SYNCHRONISED SWIMMING WORLD CUP
Around 3,000 athletes, aged from 27 to 75 plus, will The world’s elite synchronised swimmers will gather
participate in this four-day event held at St Catharines in Changshu, China, to compete for the Synchro
in Canada. A great atmosphere surrounds this World Cup title. The international competition will be
competition where rowers from all walks of life show held at the Changshu Sports Centre and features
their strokes. solo, team and combination events.
2010fisaworldrowingmasters.com fina.org

8-11, WEDNESDAY 24-28, FRIDAY

LADBROKES ST. LEGER FESTIVAL HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL
The 2010 Ladbrokes St. Leger is the highlight of Droves of visitors and locals descend on the cliff
the year at the UK’s Doncaster Racecourse. The tops around Walker Bay in South Africa to watch the
four-day event is filled with top class racing, great Southern Right whales migrate along these shores.
entertainment, fashion and the St. Leger Race itself, It’s also an excellent time to enjoy the best of African
the world’s oldest classic. music, food and hospitality.
doncaster-racecourse.co.uk sa-venues.com/events

9-11, THURSDAY 26, SUNDAY

QORMI BREAD FESTIVAL BAY TO BIRDWOOD
The aroma of freshly baked bread from wood-fired About 1,500 gleaming vintage vehicles manufactured
ovens fills the air of Qormi, Malta’s bread capital. before 1955 will line up for the 30th installment of
This well-attended event will feature exhibitions, Australia’s greatest motoring event. It’s the place
entertainment and organised tours to participating to mingle with car owners, admire vehicles at the
bakeries to sample all things baked. Councourse d’ Elegance and participate in The Run
qormibreadfestival.org from Adelaide.
baytobirdwood.com.au
10 SEPTEMBER-17 OCTOBER, FRIDAY
BOOMFEST 30-3 OCTOBER, THURSDAY
St Petersburg goes animation-crazy during the ÖLANDS SKÖRDEFEST
annual Boomfest, as the city celebrates the Öland, Sweden’s second largest island, will in
comic-book genre. Museums, galleries, streets customary fashion celebrate its rich harvest. More
and parks light up with exhibitions of the animated than 900 activities ranging from a welcome parade to
arts, while cinemas show contemporary and games and live music will transform the tranquil isle into
classic animated films. a festive hub as food stalls cater well past midnight.
boomfest.ru/en olandsturist.se/en/Events

10 Open Skies
 9
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ALAMY
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 welltravelled

Wilfred Thesiger
Sir Wilfred Thesiger was an extraordinary explorer. Nick Rice reports on the centenary of the
incomparable nomadic English gentleman whose vast legacy of travel writing and photography
has been preserved for posterity.

Sir Wilfred Thesiger was one of the greatest explorers of the of the world and, perhaps with posterity in mind, became a self-
20th century, if not, as Sir David Attenborough suggests, of any taught master photographer. He documented his extraordinary
era. Attenborough said of Thesiger that he was, “One of the very expeditions and travels in more than 40,000 photographs.
few people who in our time could be put on the pedestal of the Much of his photography, all black and white, is of stunning
great explorers of the 18th and 19th centuries.” landscapes. And yet he preferred to think of these sweeping
Born in Ethiopia, then known as Abyssinia, Thesiger was environments as secondary, “A setting for my portraits of
the son of a British diplomat posted there. He was sent to the people.”
England aged nine and received an elite education at Eton Indeed it was largely for the people that he explored, “It has
and Oxford. However the sights, sounds and smells of his been people, not places, not hunting, not even exploration that
birthplace stayed rooted within him and he yearned for lands have mattered to me most,” he once concluded.
of wild and nomadic glory. To mark the centenary of Thesiger’s birth, the University of
Writing of his childhood Thesiger said: “I am certain that Oxford has opened a year-long exhibition at the Pitt Rivers
the first nine years of my life have influenced everything that Museum, showcasing some of the best examples of Thesiger’s
followed.” One of the spectacles he witnessed as a boy was incredible canon of work.
the Shoan armies marching into battle during the 1916-17 Accompanying the exhibition is the publication of two new
revolution. In his autobiography The Life of My Choice, he books – a centenary edition of Thesiger’s seminal Arabian
wrote: “I believe that day implanted in me a life-long craving Sands and Wilfred Thesiger in Africa. ❖
for barbaric splendour, for savagery and colour and the throb
of drums. It gave me a lasting veneration for long-established
custom and ritual, from which I would derive later a deep-
seated resentment of western innovations in other lands, and
a deep distaste for the drab uniformity of the modern world.”
He returned to Africa aged 20 to attend the coronation of
Emperor Haile Selassie as Honorary Attache to the Duke of
Gloucester, the King’s representative at the coronation. From
that point on he continued to explore much of East Africa and
the Middle East, driven by “the urge to go where no white man
had been.”
Thesiger effectively renounced Western civilisation and was
resolute in how he lived. He traversed thousands of kilometres
across all kinds of terrain by traditional methods only, refusing
to use any type of motorised vehicle and holding disdain for
the march of progress in general. He hated relying on anything
other than himself and the select few trusted countrymen of the
wide lands he travelled. If he was going, he was going on foot.
At most he’d be on four feet, with the assistance of a horse,
mule or camel. He believed in the undertakings of hardship
and withstanding privation to fully appreciate and understand
the lives of those people in whose lands he travelled. Thesiger
distinguished himself above all peers with this uncompromising
willingness and sturdy ability to see and experience life as did
the inhabitants of the places he explored. Rather than observe,
he strove to become.
Thesiger spent 70 years living and roaming in remote corners

12 Open Skies
 streetstyle

São Paulo
The world’s 10th richest city is South America’s style capital. accessories. Trousers and flowing, free-spirited dresses are the
The organisers of São Paulo’s fashion week describe Brazil as order of the day and dressing ‘cool’ is driven by necessity.
a leader in ‘fun fashion’, but that’s not exactly what you see on Brazilian designers rarely strike it rich in North America and
the street. Europe. But in Latin America their clothes rule the roost and they
The São Paulo style is smart casual, extremely wearable and outsell many of the well-known international labels. That’s where
personalised by the addition of some funky jewellery and other the fun comes into the local fashion. ❖

14 Open Skies
roam free
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 myworld

Noriko Tsuiki,
Living National Treasure
eaver Noriko Tsuiki is a ‘Living National Treasure’, Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo. Tsuiki has
an honour awarded by the Japanese government also branched out into industrial design, notably
in recognition of an individual’s ‘preservation of patterning for a Katsuyama bridge in her home
important, intangible cultural properties’. Born town of Kitakyushu. Sally Howard finds out more.
in 1952 in Kitakyushu city, South Japan, Tsuiki
studied the basics of Japanese hand-weaving at What first attracted you to a career in textiles?
Tokyo’s Waseda University, followed by independent It wasn’t a direct route. First I joined Waseda University,
studies in tsumugi-ori (or Chinese silks) and kimono Tokyo, on a drama course. Soon I found that it was
fabrication. In 1984 she revived the dormant tradition the costumes of Noh plays (a heavily codified form
of weaving kokura-ori: a soft yet tough fabric capable of masked Japanese theatre that dates back to the
Tsuiki is often of deflecting arrows that was popular during Japan’s 14th century), that most enraptured me. In Noh there’s
inspired by nature,
as the names of her feudal era (12th-19th centuries) when it was used a kaleidoscope of colours, and outfits are deeply
weaves suggest. in the making of samurai’s hakama and obi (robes symbolic. In that moment I fell for all the romance and
Her kimono fabrics
and belts). In 1995 she established the Yuh Textile the possibility of textiles.
are called Ariake
(dawn), Mizubae Studio and has since exhibited in galleries and
(shining water) and competitions across the globe, including Bakuon You’ve revived a number of dormant traditions in
Sakura Keshin
(incarnation of a 04 (The Sounds of Waterfalls), a piece housed at Japanese weaving – what lead you to do this, and
cherry tree). London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and Tanshin how accessible were these ‘lost’ artisanal skills?
and Bunsuirei kimono sashes at The National All my discoveries have come by chance. For

16 Open Skies
example, one day I found an old scrap of textile and concepts at work in the entire building. It’s
at an antique shop and I was immediately struck a great challenge.
by its unusual, smooth touch. It felt like leather
even though the material seemed to have the What do you most love about your home
qualities of cotton. So I sent a sample for analysis country?
and discovered it was kokura-ori, a fabric that I love my home town of Kitakyushu. And the
ceased production in the 1930s. I started to try old imperial city of Kyoto is a wonderland for
to replicate the weave through trial and error. It me, with its preserved temples, palaces and
was a laborious process but the only way. gardens. In Tokyo, I often go to Meiji Shrine,
a silent and expansive place with many trees,
How does the Japanese textile tradition differ which calms me and brings me back to nature
from that in other countries you’ve visited? from the bustle of the city.
There are lots of beautiful textiles in the world and
each talks of place, time and history. Textiles are
a living, fluid art, a link to the past and witness to
accumulated human wisdoms that reach back
thousands of years. The Japanese golden age of
design was the 16th to 17th centuries, so many
of Japan’s design traditions can be traced to this
period. Japanese textile tradition broadly differs
from others in celebrating a depth of colour and
designs which are uniquely our own.

You seem to be inspired by nature in the

design of your fabrics. What are your other
chief inspirations?
Yes, many of my designs are directly inspired
by nature. Another important factor is music or
sound; I often get an image to create a fabric
from various natural sounds or music – classic You’ve travelled extensively as a cultural
or folk music, something I hear in passing. ambassador and to exhibit your work around
the world. What’s your favourite country
How do you think textile art differs from other outside Japan?
art mediums in its impact on the viewer? I love England. Perhaps it’s the island-race
The most important difference is that the textiles mentality that’s shared with the Japanese, but
appeal to the sense of touch, not only to the the English manage to combine a respect for
sense of sight; something that’s understood tradition with innovation and the avant-garde.
more in Asian cultures than in the West. This And I love traditional British pubs. We have
‘feeling of touch’ in the various materials and ‘kakuuti’, which are a Japanese form of pubs, in
structures of fabrics is of as much importance Kitakyushu. They have something of the same
as the visual impact. old-fashioned style and sense of history.

You’ve also designed features for prominent What are your plans for the coming year?
buildings in Japan. How different is the I’m using kokura-ori technique in a range of
process to working with fabrics? diffusion fabrics designed by me but woven
I’m very interested in architectural design. The by machine, called Shima Shima. The fabric
sense of scale and volume is very different from is beautifully adaptable and can be used for
that used in fabrics. Designed fabrics start everything from handbags to scarves, hats
off from a single point – creating an image to and laptop cases. I’ll probably show them at
generate a fabric design from. With architectural Meuble Paris next January. That and take some
design, this is reversed. What’s needed is a time out for long baths, or a hot-spring resort, if
sense of the whole, I need to know essences I’m lucky. ❖

August 2010 17
 celebritycities

TAHER QASSIM
MY LIVERPOOL
When people ask me what symbolises Liverpool for because there are so many of us and we needed a
me, I pick the Liver Birds every time. They are instantly place where we could socialise. I work in the National
recognisable landmarks and have appeared on Health Service as a public health neighbourhood
every advertisement for the northern port city I made manager. And now I am also chair of the Liverpool
my home 15 years ago. Although there has been Arabic Centre.
redevelopment around the area, the Liver Building, Through the work connections I’ve made in the 15
along with the neighbouring Cunard Building and years I’ve lived here, I was able to set up and chair the
Port of Liverpool Building, make up Liverpool’s Three Liverpool Arabic Arts Festival. It is an annual cultural
Graces lining the City’s waterfront and, of course, festival that is now in its ninth year. Its main aim is to
there is a strong connection between Yemenis and bring about understanding between the British and
the waterfront in Liverpool. Arab inhabitants of the city through culture. At first I
Although the Yemeni community centre isn’t in the didn’t really envisage creating anything quite so big.
port area, most of our families arrived in Liverpool Last year we had 25,000 people involved. It really Taher Qassim was
by sea. They were sailors on British ships and so started as a one-off small event. A group of us went one of the founder’s
the maritime environment is part and parcel of why into a local school to let the children see first hand of the Yemeni
Arabic club. Today
we are here. Last summer during the Liverpool what Yemeni culture is all about. he is the chair
Arabic Arts Festival the community’s elders crossed Then the Bluecoat, one of Liverpool’s main arts of the Liverpool
Arabic Centre and
the Mersey on a ferry and then we performed our venues, staged a performance by an oud player
was instrumental
traditional songs and dances right next to the river. It and we supported this event. Since then we have in setting up the
drew quite a crowd and was a way to mark our long worked together to bring the best Arab painters, Liverpool Arabic
Arts Festival that
connection with the sea. poets, musicians, actors and dancers to perform in has grown rapidly
I was one of the founders of the Yemeni Arabic Club Liverpool every July. It has grown very quickly into an in its nine years.

18 Open Skies
 WHERE TO EATAA
MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT Lodge Lane.
This is a great neighbourhood place to eat, near the
Arabic Centre and with authentic Yemeni food.
BLUECOAT RESTAURANT I like the modern feel and
the fact that the chef fuses Middle Eastern food with
other cuisines.
thebluecoat.org.uk
WHERE TO SLEEPAA
THE HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL A Beatles inspired
hotel that is conveniently located and reminds me of
the impact the Fab Four has had on the city.
harddaysnighthotel.com
The festival was staged in the Palm House and the
ADELPHI HOTEL The Adelphi Hotel is a landmark
exotic nature of the setting drew in lots of people who
in Liverpool and within walking distance of the train
stations and the main attractions. I am especially had never thought about mingling with Arabs. It was
drawn to its Edwardian interior. a big success. That taught us that there was a real
adelphi-hotel.co.uk need to continue. I still walk in Sefton Park but the
WHAT TO DOA focus of the festival has moved from there and into
LIVERPOOL PHILHARMONIC It is famous worldwide. the mainstream cultural centres in the city.
The amazing art deco interior befits the high standard At this year’s festival Egyptian pop superstar
of performance I’ve come to expect. The yearly
Mohamed Mounir performed before an excited crowd
programme is varied and exciting.
liverpoolphil.com at the Liverpool Philharmonic. He also introduced
an early Youssef Chahine film that he appears in
FACT This is a Liverpool multi-dimensional cinema,
art gallery and the UK’s leading organisation for the (Destiny) at FACT, Liverpool’s Cinemateque. We have
support and exhibition of film, art and new media. a huge number of arts venues in Liverpool thanks to
They show vintage Arabic movies along with more the growth of cultural tourism here. After the city’s
modern arthouse films. It is very popular with all boom in the 1950s and 1960s because of coal mining
the communities in Liverpool. I like the architecture
in particular which is largely concrete and very and manufacturing, it went downhill from the 1970s
different from the usual plush cinemas. FACT also onward with the decline in traditional manufacturing
provides training. industries. But billions of pounds have been spent
fact.co.uk on regenerating the city along cultural lines and now
TATE LIVERPOOL This museum has completely we are lucky enough to have countless restaurants
altered the atmosphere in the Albert Dock. There is and shops. Of course we have our own special
always something new to stimulate ideas and it hosts
Yemeni eateries and I also enjoy the upstairs
Liverpool’s acclaimed Biennale.
tate.org.uk/liverpool restaurant at the Bluecoat and a new Jamie Oliver
Italian restaurant has just opened in Liverpool One.
THE THREE GRACES I still enjoy walking in the
vicinity of these buildings at Pierhead. They are grand Liverpool’s success as European Capital of Culture
without being off-putting and are a monument to the in 2008 really crowned the city’s fortunes built on its
strength and determination of the Scousers (a local cultural strengths. We had more than two and a half
name for Liverpudlians) to overcome all odds.
million visitors that year alone.
THE BEATLES STORY Located in the Albert Dock the The festival now has connections with a large
Fab Four’s award-winning story offers an atmospheric
number of the more than 50 galleries and museums
journey into the life, times, culture and music of the
Beatles. Everyone who comes to Liverpool wants to in the city’s heart. We are part of that amazing cultural
go on a magical mystery tour to see how four young boom, but we are very proud to have made our own
lads from Liverpool shook the world. mark on the Liverpool scene. And this year the festival
beatlesstory.com
received an important award from The Arab British
Society in recognition of our work in contributing to
Top: In 2008,
event that attracts huge interest not just in Liverpool the British public’s knowledge and understanding of
Liverpool was the
but also from people all over the world. Arab Culture. We're now a fixture on the Liverpool European Capital
We began holding Arabic weekenders in one of arts scene and that is just as important to me as the of Culture. Qassim
has been heavily
my favourite spots, Sefton Park. It’s a really big open MBE I received last January. ❖ promoting the city’s
space with lots of trees not far from the Arabic Centre. As told to Sylvia Smith cultural strength.

August 2010 19
La Binoche
Juliette Binoche believes that
women reach their prime in their
forties. She definitely lives up to that
with a career that just keeps getting
better, reports Martin Gani.

T
here are beautiful for the César eight times and won it once. In total,
women and then there she’s had 15 wins and another 19 nominations in
are exceptional women. her 30-year career. Not that you’d know that talking
Think Sophia Loren, to her as she comes across as a down to earth,
all class and Italian sensitive human being
style, with an aura of la She also knows what interests her. Getting the
dolce vita. Then there’s opportunity to work with Steven Spielberg is like
French actress Juliette winning the cinematic lottery, but Binoche turned
Binoche, a fine example down a role in Jurassic Park for Three Colours: Blue.
of joie de vivre if ever In retrospect, it was a sound decision as the Polish
there was one. Then again, labelling her a French masterpiece made her an international star and
actress is like reducing a bottle of Veuve Clicquot earned Binoche a Golden Lion at the 1993 Venice
to grape juice. Binoche is far more than that. She’s a Film Festival, a César in France, as well as a Golden
versatile, international star who is as likely to appear Globe nomination in the USA. Her choice to do Three
in a French drama or a Hollywood blockbuster as she Colours: Blue was a deeply personal one. “In this film
is in an independent budget film. Binoche listens to my character has to deal with losing her family, an
her heart and soul, something that quickly became issue I’m deeply interested in,” explains Binoche. “At
apparent when I talked to her at the 2010 edition of the time a friend of mine was actully going through
the Cannes Film Festival, where she was appearing in a similar pain and I lived through it with her. I was
Iranian filmmaker Abbas Kiarostami’s Certified Copy. very familiar with how she felt, so I did it for her.”
Binoche was born in Paris in 1964 and has This personal approach seems to be a recurring
appeared in over 40 films including international theme with Binoche and it may even illustrate who
hits like The English Patient, Chocolat, The Unbearable she is both as an actress and a person. How does
Lightness of Being and Dan in Real Life. She won an she choose her roles? “I don’t choose them, they
Oscar as Best Supporting Actress in 1996 for The choose me,” is her smiling answer. But she’s quick
English Patient, and received another nomination to provide a deeper insight. “Actually I do have
four years later for Chocolat. She’s been nominated to make choices depending on how closely I feel

20 Open Skies
PROFILE

CORBIS

August 2010 21
 PROFILE

the character and whether I can reveal something

hidden inside that role. Generally, I like challenging
roles but it also depends on who the director is. But
it’s always nice to be in demand.”
According to Binoche, Certified Copy ticked all the
right boxes. “When Kiarostami asked me to work
with him, I was honoured. I had worked with him
before, but it was the human aspect of the role that
drew me to his project. The story revolves around
a man and a woman pretending to be a couple and
it explores the theme in an interesting way: Is the
original self always better than being somebody
else, a copy?”
There’s no denying that Binoche is adventurous
in her roles and always up for a challenge. She sees
movies as open doors, and at every door, she changes
character and life. For example, Certified Copy
takes place in Tuscany, Italy, the male protagonist
is the British baritone William Shimmel, and Iran’s
Kiarostami is directing. How does Binoche adapt to
so many places, people and directors with such vastly
different backgrounds?
“I love the challenge of working abroad with
people who have a different approach and way of
CORBIS

Clockwise from top: Binoche won the best actress award at this year’s Cannes
Film Festival for her role in Certified Copy; Binoche with actor William Shimell and
renowned Iranian director Abbas Kiarostami at Cannes; In 1995 Binoche was the face
CORBIS

of Lancôme’s Poême fragrance and last year she became a brand ambassador for
the French cosmetics firm.

22 Open Skies
42-25188664
 PROFILE

CORBIS

CORBIS
GETTY IMAGES

REUTERS

Top left and right:

Binoche has many
doing things,” says Binoche. “It’s always an enriching improvise the dialogue. It was tough at first but in talents. Besides
acting she also
experience and when it comes to adapting it’s a two the end I learnt a lot from the experience. In Tehran paints and had her
way street. In France the director tends to be in I worked with Kiarostami on a curious film, 114 first exhibition in
total control, in the Anglo-Saxon world some form Iranian actresses and I are sitting in a dark theatre 1990.

of teamwork usually prevails, and Asians have yet listening to the 12th century Iranian poem, Khosrow Above left:
Dancing is the
another approach.” and Shirin, but we never see what’s happening on the latest Binoche
Binoche has plenty of experience to back up her stage. The Iranian actresses were so dynamic and full talent to emerge.
She appeared with
opinion. “Kiarostami knows exactly what he wants, of life, hopefully I also learnt a lot from them.” Akram Khan in In-I.
he prepares the frame and gives you the freedom There’s no denying that Binoche has an infectious Above: Binoche
to do as you like within that frame,” she says. “The enthusiasm, as Kiarostami can vouch for. He told with Johnny Depp
Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien is not traditional her the story of Certified Copy as if it was a personal in Chocolat. The
movie earned her
at all. When we did Flight of the Red Balloon (2007) he experience and Binoche was so enthusiastic and a second Oscar
gave me no script. He explained to me that although taken in by his words that it prompted Kiarostami nomination.
the story took place in Paris, he didn’t know enough to turn fiction into film. Was this an easy part to play?
French to write a script. So he only gave me some “No,” says a laughing Binoche. “I had a lot of
basic instructions about each scene and I had to trouble walking up and down the cobblestone streets

24 Open Skies
 PROFILE

of Tuscan towns wearing high heels!” Then she gets

serious. “I was perplexed at first as the art gallery
owner I play is a neurotic character who constantly
changes moods. How can you be one way one
minute and another the next, and make it all look
natural?” Kiarostami had no such doubts in Binoche’s
performance. “She did an excellent job,” he said, “a
perfect performance that made everything look and
sound real, not a film but a real story.”
The Cannes jury agreed with Kiarostami and
promptly gave Binoche the Best Actress award.
Binoche might be an international star, but in
France she’s unsurprisingly a superstar having
appeared in French classics like Lovers On the Bridge
and the hugely successful 2008 movie Paris. In fact,
the French press have nicknamed her ‘La Binoche’.
Those who attended this year’s Cannes Film
CORBIS
CORBIS

Above: The
paintings used
Festival would have noticed Binoche’s picture parents, both actor-directors, divorced when she in The Lovers
on the Bridge
everywhere. But this was not zealous advertising for was four. But, like everything else, it is a subject that were Binoche’s
Certified Copy, in fact Binoche was chosen for the she has thought deeply about. own. She hasn’t
official festival poster. “I was contacted about it earlier “Like everybody else, when I think of family stopped painting
on movie shoots
in the year asking for my consent and I said yes,” I mainly think of my children and my partner since she received
explains Binoche. “But it did make me feel like I’m (Argentinean filmmaker Santiago Amigorena). I’ve a commission from
the Cahiers du
looking into a mirror wherever I go!” always seen my own parents separately, but now I
Cinéma for a series
There’s no denying that Binoche is a pretty face, have my children, my sister Marion, grandparents, of portraits in 2007.
after all she represented the French cosmetics firm nephews and nieces to create that sense of family life Above left:
Lancôme. And yes, she gets frequent flyer miles together,” says Binoche. Binoche is an
international star,
globetrotting from one movie set to another. But she’s And, in typical Binoche fashion, she can’t help but in France she
also the mother of two, Raphael, 17 and Hana 11, digging deeper into her role. “Looking back, my is a superstar. The
French media gave
whom she had respectively with scuba diver André relationships ended because my partners didn’t
her the affectionate
Halle and actor Benoit Magimel. On top of that really make a commitment, but perhaps it was also nickname ‘La
she’s also the devoted godmother of five Cambodian a little my fault. When a love story ends you never Binoche’.

orphans. Yet she also finds time to raise funds for really know why however much you analyse it. I
Médecins Sans Frontiéres, and has been a member insist that my children regularly see their respective
of Aspecta, a Cambodian charity organisation, since father. I hope to teach them to be independent,
1992. Family is a sensitive issue with Binoche as her to pursue what they love the most, to find their

26 Open Skies
 PROFILE

own way in the world. Doing Certified Copy also gave me Normally one should choose one or the other, but not both.”
the opportunity to reflect on life as a couple. I asked myself In the cinema world, Binoche is as busy as ever. An
loads of questions. I have two children, a job many would American movie, Son Of No One, where she stars alongside
envy and I travel around the world. Maybe I could live Al Pacino and Ray Liotta, is due for release in December. Plus
as a single mother, but sharing all this with someone is a she has another project in the pipeline.
profound human need for me. I just can’t do without it even “I’m working with Polish filmmaker Malgorzata Szumowska
if I’m aware relationships don’t last forever today with all the on his next film, Sponsoring. I’ll do the part of a journalist
temptation that is out there.” investigating the prostitution of university students,” she
Actress, mother, charity worker and thinker! That’s a full explains. “It’s a social theme I’m very interested in. Here we
dance card. But Binoche has another creative talent, namely have women selling their bodies for need and/or luxury.
painting. The film poster of Lovers On the Bridge, as well as the No emotions get in the way but unplugging the heart is a
paintings done by the artist Binoche plays, is her own work. In dangerous thing. It leads to exploitation, loss of independence
2008 she published a book of portraits consisting of directors and it’s not worth it in the end.”
she has worked with, as well as the respective character she Binoche once said “I’m pretty much melancholic”. Yet,
herself played. there’s no denying the fact that she’s a woman who throws
Last year Binoche branched out into another art form when her heart and soul into everything she does. It was the French
she showed theatre audiences her dancing skills in a show philosopher René Descartes who coined the famous statement
called In-I which toured major European capitals. Her dance ‘I think therefore I am’. That seems to fit Juliette Binoche nicely.
partner was none other than choreographer Akram Khan. After all, it is La Binoche who said: “Being a famous actress
That must have taken some courage. Binoche breaks out in may give you a sense of being important, but believe me, it’s
yet another contagious smile. “I must admit that it did take just an illusion” and “My only ambition is to be true every
courage. I had never danced on stage before and it was pretty moment I am living”. The thinking man’s actress might just be
daring. It was an intense show both emotionally and physically. a philosopher as well. ❖
 REAL LIFE

CORBIS

28 Open Skies
 GANG DAD
What does a father do when his son becomes involved with a gang?
In Jerry Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking
on South Los Angeles’ gangland, reports Jim Calio.

I first met Jerry Wheeler* when he was a refrigerator other gang members – ‘dissed’ him – and then drove
repairman in South Central Los Angeles. He was him home. “I told him I Ioved him,” says Jerry,
divorced from his wife, and she had custody of “but I also said I’d knock his head off if I caught
their two children, Charmaine and Darnel. Jerry him wearing sag pants or a blue shirt or blue tennis
had grown up in South Central (now called South shoes. I didn’t want to see anything blue. And I
Los Angeles), was steeped in gang lore and knew meant nothing.”
the appeal of the gangs to young boys who came This pattern continued for several months, but try
from broken homes. But he never in a thousand as he might, Jerry couldn’t pry his son away from
years thought that his own son would become a the gangs. One day, he found a gun among Darnel’s
‘gangbanger,’ street talk for a member of a gang. possessions. Confronted, Darnel said he was just
Then, one day, his daughter called him up and keeping it for a friend. “Fine,” said Jerry, grabbing it.
said that Darnel was hanging out with a faction, “Tell your friend he can come get it from me.” The
or ‘set’, of the Crips. Jerry didn’t believe her. But ‘friend’ of course, never showed up to claim it. Jerry
Charmaine, 15, insisted it was true, so Jerry bundled says that he believes the gun was used by Darnel as
her into his car and drove to the street corner where part of his gang initiation – that he was supposed
she said Darnel was. And she was right – there was to participate in a drive-by shooting, but the gun
Darnel, then all of 12-years-old, dressed in the ‘sag’ misfired (or Darnel was too nervous) and instead it
pants and sneakers that was then the standard gang discharged into the car door.
outfit, hanging around with a bunch of Crips. Jerry Things only got worse. Darnel started stealing
called from the car, and a frightened Darnel ran cars with the other gangbangers, again as part of Opposite page:
over. Darnel denied he was a gang member. Jerry his initiation into the set. The cops called Jerry and Detail from a
painting that was
told him to get in the car, drove him home and said they were holding Darnel on stolen car charges. confiscated during
burned his son’s gang clothes. But a few weeks later, Jerry closed up the refrigerator repair shop and drove a police raid on an
LA gang house.
the same thing happened – Charmaine called Jerry down to the precinct, where the cops handed over
*NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED

It deals with the

and said that Darnel was at it again, hanging around his son. Jerry then took Darnel back to his brother’s themes of guns,
with the Crips, who all dressed in blue (the Bloods, house nearby, and, as he puts it, “coached” his son on violence and death,
a road that is often
a rival gang, wore red). And again Jerry drove to how not to steal cars, all the while telling Darnel that travelled by gang
the street corner, shouted at Darnel in front of the he loved him, that he was his father but that he’d be members.

August 2010 29
 REAL LIFE

CORBIS
GETTY IMAGES

CORBIS

damned if he would let him join a gang. But Darnel, Then, interestingly, Jerry tried a new tactic. He Clockwise from
top left: Gang
swayed by the other gang members, kept at it – and knew that a car parked near his house was one that members are
about the third time the cops called Jerry to come Darnel and his gangbanger friends had stolen. So identified by their
tattoos; Former
for him, Darnel, fearing what was coming, begged very early on a Saturday morning, he yanked Darnel gang members Max
them not to release him to his father’s custody, which out of bed, grabbed a can of motor oil and some Maestas (L) from the
is exactly what the cops did. It happened even again rags, and told Darnel they were going to wash the ‘18th Street’, Alfred
Lomas (C) from the
and this time the cops, sensing an ally in Jerry, simply car down. Jerry proceeded, with Darnel staring on ‘Florencia 13’ and
brought Darnel right to Jerry’s house. They didn’t in open-mouthed amazement, to wipe every inch Melvin Johnson
(R) from the ‘Crips’
even bother to file charges. of the car, inside and out, with motor oil, in effect pose for customers
erasing any fingerprints. Then Jerry gave Darnel the during one of the LA

When I asked Darnel what keys to his own car, even though Darnel was under Gang Tours in Los
Angeles. Twice a
age, and said, “If you need a car, use mine. But don’t
the other kids thought of Jerry steal.” Dumbfounded, Darnel took his dad’s car out
month former gang
members organise

repeatedly showing up and for a ride. tours for tourists to

discover the history
After a while, Jerry, using his own particular
yanking him off the street, he brand of tough love and street smarts, began pulling
and origin of high-
profile gang areas

said they told him, “You don’t Darnel away from the gangs. Anyone will tell you
and top crime scene
locations in South
that pre-teen kids are the most susceptible to joining
know how lucky you are to have the gangs, and if they do, they are generally lost.
Los Angeles; Police
conduct a raid in

an old man who cares.” Darnel was at that critical age, but even some of
South Los Angeles.

30 Open Skies
 REAL LIFE

the other gangbangers were impressed with Jerry’s

determination to keep Darnel out of harm’s way.
In fact, when I asked Darnel what the other kids
thought of Jerry repeatedly showing up and yanking
him off the street, let alone ‘dissing’ him in front of
the others, he said they told him, “You don’t know
how lucky you are to have an old man who cares.”
But just when Jerry thought he had finally got
his son all the way out of the gangs, the roof fell in.
Darnel was at a convenience store getting a soda

CORBIS
when he was confronted by the girlfriend of a rival
gang leader. She called Darnel a “chicken” for leaving
the gangs, and then she slapped him – an obvious
provocation. Darnel hit her back, and she ran. It
didn’t take long for word to get out that there was a
‘contract’ out on Darnel – that the girl’s boyfriend was
going to kill him. Jerry heard about this and decided
to take matters into his own hands. He and his
brother, who played a significant role as his backup,

Jim Calio was the West Coast

Bureau Chief for Life Magazine
until it folded in 1995. After that,
he remained in Los Angeles,

CORBIS
where he continues to write
travel stories, celebrity profiles
Top: Crips gang
and other articles for more emotionally and physically, went to the rival members pose
than a dozen magazines, gang leader’s house. The mother answered for a picture. The
including The New Yorker, the door, and Jerry asked politely to see her Crips is mainly an
African-American
L’Equipe and Cosmopolitan, son, the gang leader, a kid in his late teens. gang, but not
plus websites in the US and Jim Ca lio When the kid appeared at the door, Jerry let exclusively. There
are about 30,000 to
internationally. Several years loose with a roundhouse punch and decked 35,000 Crips gang
ago, he produced a two-hour television movie him. He had Charmaine and Darnel in tow, members who
based on a story written for People. It was about standing right behind him. “If you harm either one of are divided into a
loosely connected
an airplane hijacking in Athens, The Taking of Flight these kids,” he said, pointing to them, “I’ll kill you.” network called
847: The Uli Derickson Story. The movie received Then he walked away. ‘sets’.
five Emmy nominations. The next thing Jerry knew, there was a ‘contract’ Above: Social
acceptance,
The ‘Gang Dad’ story grew out of interviews out on him. He was told that a carload of money, safety
Calio did with several street gang counsellors gangbangers, led by the kid he had punched out, in numbers and
in South Central Los Angeles, which has since was driving around the neighbourhood looking respect are four
main reasons that
been renamed ‘South Los Angeles,’ but it’s only for him. Jerry got his brother and they both went young children are
a cosmetic change – the gang problem continues looking for the gangbangers, thinking this was the lured into gangs.
unabated, no matter what they call the area. final confrontation. Both Jerry and his brother were
One of the counsellors Calio talked to told him armed. They stood in the middle of the street, High
about his son and how he got him out of a gang. Noon-style, and faced the approaching car which
The gripping story illustrates the central problem bristled with guns. Jerry says now he didn’t know
with the gang culture: Unless parents are willing what was going to happen, but at the last minute
to become closely involved with their children, the carload of gangbangers suddenly swerved and
especially the younger ones, many of these kids turned down a side street, thus avoiding a bloody
will end up in a gang. confrontation. That’s the last Jerry ever heard from
the gang leader who was out to kill his kid.

32 Open Skies
 But it wasn’t over yet. About a year later, Darnel, house and saw an old man being beaten up by some
by then back in school and holding down a part time members of a Crips set. The gangbangers said that
job, was standing in line at a movie theatre, talking to the old man owed them money. Jerry jumped in the
his girlfriend. Out of the corner of his eye, he saw a middle and challenged any of the gangbangers to
car pull up slowly and a gun come out. Instinctively, take him on. They backed away – they knew him
he dropped to the ground. A shot was fired, and it hit from the street and respected his authority, which is
Below: End of
him in the leg. Jerry called me that night, steaming. something you can’t buy, you either have it or you the road: A young
I asked him what he was going to do. I thought for don’t. Jerry had it. Shortly after that, he became a gang member has
his hair cut by
sure that he would get a gun and go out looking for street gang counsellor, trying to keep other people’s an inmate before
the shooter himself. “Nothing” he said. “I’ve done all kids out of trouble – and out of gangs. ❖ entering prison.
I can. It’s up to Darnel.” And it would have been easy
for Darnel to round up some of his old gangbanger
buddies and seek revenge, but he didn’t do it – he
had finally turned the corner, much to his father’s
relief and pride. His only reminder is a slight limp
because of the bullet wound.
Through all this, Jerry was still working as a
refrigerator repairman, although the business
suffered some because he was chasing down Darnel
at all hours of the day and night. But he had also
been thinking about working with kids in gangs,
about trying to get them out like he had gotten his
own son out. Then, one day, he walked out of his
 CULTURE

Angolan artist Kiluanji is labelled a ‘free radical’

who is known for his installations and thought
provoking work. He has exhibited at the Venice
Biennial, the Guangzhou Triennial and is a
headliner at the Angolan Triennial.

HEALING ART
The Angolan capital Luanda is gearing up to host its second
Triennial. Louise Redvers spoke to Fernando Alvim, the director
of the Sindika Dokolo Foundation, and the brains behind the
event set to put Angola on Africa and the world’s art map.

T
he renouned Angolan artist, boasts the largest collection of
Fernando Alvim, has an office contemporary African art in the world
located deep in downtown Luanda, – in such an old crumbling building is
on the first floor of an old, faded 1940s symptomatic of the ongoing dialogue
hotel building. Several other Angolan artists between Portuguese-speaking Angola’s
and musicians share the corridor, and as past and present, its sense of identity and
soon as you leave the noisy street and enter perceptions of art on the continent.
the hotel’s cool, tiled reception area the “The Triennial is a cultural movement,”
sense of creativity is tangible. explained Alvim, the director of the event.
The Triennial work area, located in the “It is the creation of a platform for artists
former restaurant, is divided up by striking to show and share their experiences, but to
green and grey partition walls, underneath do so freely, without being conditioned by
a high white ceiling, with funky furniture. the systems of art as we have come to know
It is almost an art exhibition in itself: bright them. We want it to be about an exploration
and modern, there are colourful posters of possibilities.”
and wall charts detailing Triennial events, This will be Luanda’s second Triennial
alongside rows of flat screen computers and and is, according to Alvim, much bigger
works by Alvim and others, including a and “more organic” than the first, which
large framed mirror with the words ‘We Are was staged in 2007. The growth is a natural
All Post-Exotics’ which hangs in reception. reflection of the country’s own social and
Basing the ultra-modern headquarters economic development.
of Sindika Dokolo’s art foundation – which Once known for little more than its civil

August 2010 35
 to navigate: there are more hotels
and restaurants, better roads, a
private taxi firm, a new airport,
and having recently hosted the
Africa Cup of Nation’s football
tournament, there is more
understanding of tourists.
Alvim says Luanda’s growth and
development is the idea behind
the Triennial’s theme: Geografias
Emocionais – Arte e Afectos – or in
English: Emotional Geographies –
Art and Effects.
“The idea emerged from the

ANDRE VIEIRA
experiences of the city and its
ongoing metamorphosis,” he said,
explaining that Luanda, which is
war and legacy of landmines, Angola is becoming a home to two thirds of the country’s population, was
regional powerhouse with a growing economy and uniquely hybrid and a strong representation of all
continually diversifying global relationships thanks Angola at once. “This is the Triennial of Luanda, not
in part to its huge oil reserves. The capital Luanda, just the Triennial in Luanda,” he added.
home to an estimated eight million people, has The three-month free event will involve seven
also changed significantly in the past three years as main exhibitions with 400 works presented
rapid post-war economic development is driving a through various mediums including architecture,
construction boom, with much of the capital being performance and design, all linking into each other
dug-up and rebuilt. and overlapping at common sites.
With its stunning bay-side location, city beaches There will be a Smörgåsbord of art, photography,
and dabs of colonial Portuguese architecture, Alvim sculpture, fashion, music, film and dance
has a stunning canvas on which to begin his work. “happening” all over the Angolan capital, with
Although there are few formal exhibition spaces, outdoor billboard paintings, formal exhibitions,
there are plenty of interesting buildings to use, and television and radio debates, education programmes,
like the foundation’s office in the old hotel, they add theatrical performances and more. A percentage of
to the event’s conversation between past and present. each exhibition will be retained and inserted into
Eight years of peace have also made the city easier the next so the finale in December will represent the
whole event as it has developed.
As well as pieces from Top left: Fernando
Alvim, one of
established Angolans such as Angola’s most
Nastio Mosquito, Ndilo Mutima, renowned painters,
Yonamine and Kiluanji, there is the curator
of Luanda’s Art
will also be a number of younger Triennial. Alvim is
Angolan photographers, fashion also the curator
of the Sindika
designers and performers showing Dokolo’s collection,
their work. the biggest
From overseas, artists taking collection of African
contemporary art in
part include British/Nigerian the world.
Turner Prize-winner Chris Ofili, Bottom left:
controversial South African Turner Prize-winner
Chris Ofili’s work
Kendell Geers, Ethiopian/Swiss will be shown at the
Loulou Cherinet, New York-based Luanda Triennial.
Egyptian Ghada Amer, Abdoulaye Ofili’s work is
GETTY IMAGES

heavily influenced
Konaté from Mali, Bili Bidjocka by his Nigerian
from Cameroon and several roots.

36 Open Skies
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 CULTURE

Alvim admitted he did not

personally like all the pieces
that were to be shown but said
it was about bringing together
a fusion of styles and ideas to
challenge the audience. “I find if
there is a piece of artwork that
I don’t like, often it makes me
be more curious,” he explained.
“It’s almost as if I have to look
deeper into it to find what it
is that I don’t like about it and
that creates a new process in my
relationship with the art.
“I suppose that is what we
are trying to do here with the
Triennial because to me art is
about a biochemical process, it
is how we react to the aesthetics
of the work and what it means
to us. We want our artists to be
CORBIS

alchemists, to create new ideas in

new spaces.”
He urged those who were
critical of contemporary art to
ditch the old argument that
“anyone could have done it”,
and see instead the relationship
between themselves and
the work and try to feel and
understand that experience. He
said contemporary art was well-
received in Angola because the
people have become accustomed
Brazilian and Portuguese artists including Ayrson to accept the unusual having lived through decades
Heráclito and João Maria Gusmão. of conflict before the civil war finally ended in 2002.
There will also be several international “Angolans have a huge experience to absorb the
collaborations including an exhibition from Salvador most incredible situations because of what we have Top left: A visitor
about Africans in Bahia since the 1950s and a project lived through,” he said, adding: “We were in school looks at the
work ‘The Best
about the German Bauhaus geometrical design as kids with Cuban teachers who taught us Marxism, of the Best’ by
movement founded in 1919. we are very used to things we are not used to, if you Angolan artist
Yonamine who
In addition to these shows and the specially- know what I mean? This makes the public here more
often explores the
commissioned pieces, Alvim is hoping to bring to open than in many places, and Angolans are not colonial relationship
Luanda from various museums around the world afraid of something new.” between Portugal
and Angola.
an exhibition of Angolan Chokwe masks, used by the Well-received at home, the country’s contemporary
Bottom left:
tribes living in the eastern provinces of the Lundas art has also attracted critical acclaim abroad. Luanda’s Ilha
and Moxico. “This is about the concept of values Following the success of the 2007 Triennial, which Peninsula is the
place for trendy
of art,” he said. “We are doing this project with featured close to 100 artists and attracted 200,000
restaurants and
the Angolan National Bank, looking at economic visitors, Alvim and others went on to create Check clubs. But the
worth. We want to create an interaction between the List – Luanda Pop at the 52nd Venice Biennial, and second Luanda
Triennial will be
aesthetics of two centuries ago, connecting to the Luanda Smooth and Rave in Bordeaux in 2009, both spread all over the
aesthetics of the contemporary artists from Angola.” making waves in the contemporary art world. With city and totally free.

38 Open Skies
 CULTURE

that build up, the 2010 Triennial is likely to be a major draw and aesthetic pleasure, not something to pay for. We live in a
for art lovers and critics from around the world. But while time of much uncertainty, conflict and unrest, but art can be a
the curator hopes people will come to his city, he hopes they vector of peace, it is something which is good for the spirit and
will do so in a way true to the event as an art show and not people must have access to art without having to pay.”
through national publicity. He reflected: “For more than 30 Taking the concept of ‘free’ to the extreme, the curator
years the world has been saying things about us, it’s almost as said they were working with the Provincial Government of
if we have to be obliged to say something back to the world, Luanda to create a lot of work to go outside in the open air, on
like an apology. billboards and metal fences of construction sites. “You will feel
“But I don’t see this as the point of the Triennial. We are the art as soon as you enter the city, it will be there all around
much more concentrated on ourselves, and of course we’ll you to experience,” he said.
have a website and advertise what we are doing but it’s not With just a few months to go until the Triennial’s launch,
specifically about making publicity for Luanda or for Angola.” Alvim and his small team are busy on the final preparations,
Repeating the edict that it is the Triennial ‘of’ Luanda, not preparing the programmes and posters and editing their
just ‘in’ Luanda, Alvim is proud of the ambitious education monthly Triennial magazine-come-catalogue, Uanga. There
programme that is proposed. More than 100 schools and have also been several pre-events, including exhibitions and
70,000 students from across the country will be introduced to concerts, and the expectation is building.
art through various cross-over Triennial projects. The fact that Although rarely seen in the office or indeed in public,
all the shows will be free is also crucial, the artist said, to make Luanda-based Congolese businessman Sindika Dokolo,
the Triennial as inclusive as possible. sometimes billed as ‘Africa’s Charles Saatchi’, remains closely
“For the development of Angola, art must be a free process,” involved in the Triennial’s planning and can take much credit
he said. “We need to give people access without making them for making Angola into a contemporary art destination. ❖
spend money. I would not feel good if a young person had
to forego their lunch to be able to afford to see an exhibition, The 2010 Triennial de Luanda runs from September 12 to
this is not right. For me art should be a space for reflection December 19.
 TRAVEL

MADRID’S
GOURMET
TOUR DE

CORBIS
FORCE
The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour,
fashion and beauty. Plus, it also has a fantastic
restaurant scene with some classy culinary
temptations, reports Scott Adam

40 Open Skies
 TRAVEL

ual
s fresh and unus
Chef Santi love daikon, a mild
produce such as radish.
flavoured Asian

hose dining in Emirates First Class or “I believe in treating the base ingredients with respect Above: Chef
Santi Santamaria
Business Class en route between Dubai and Madrid and, in many cases, take a ‘barely touched’ approach has earned
will be savouring an exclusive selection of dishes by to my cooking,” he explains. Creating meals to be seven Michelin
celebrated Spanish chef Santi Santamaria. However, served at high altitudes for an international airline has stars across his
four Spanish
after landing, the gastronomic journey continues. its challenges too. “There are so many more factors to restaurants. Many
The 52-year-old Chef Santi, who is most famed take into account,” he muses. “People’s perceptions gourmands regard
his food as the
for his three Michelin-starred restaurant Can Fabes, of flavours alter and some foods, such as salads with
reference point for
just north of Barcelona, explains that designing the fresh tomato, aren’t appropriate, as they can make Spanish cuisine.
cuisine onboard has been a delightful and highly the passengers feel heavy.” For hungry globetrotters, Opposite page:
personal culinary progression. “My cuisine is known there are opportunities to savour his delicious Catalan Madrid is about
casual eating
in both Spain and the United Arab Emirates, and it’s inspired cuisine at his restaurant Santceloni in during the day
great to be able to link the two cities together with Madrid, Ossiano in Dubai and at Santi in Singapore. and more formal
at night. Gran Via,
meals for Emirates passengers.” Santceloni boasts two Michelin stars and is a reference
Madrid’s famous
In true Spanish style, the dining experience will point for Spanish gourmands. Set in the chic shopping street,
begin with tapas; those tasty morsels which are so surroundings of the Hotel Hesperia, the restaurant’s has numerous
good restaurants
popular in Spain, but other dishes, such as the fish decor also echoes Chef Santi’s philosophy of merging hidden in the side
suquet stew cooked Costa Brava style, or foie gras old and new. Rustic farmhouse tables and cupboards streets.
with caramelised pineapple, are reflections of the are juxtaposed against ultra-modern interior fittings,
gastronomic traditions and trends from his homeland which are all set around two large glassed-in atria.
– the north eastern Spanish region of Catalonia – that The kitchen is headed by Executive Chef Óscar
has inspired his recipes for more than 25 years. Valasco, who first worked with Santamaria at his
Seasonal fresh produce will direct the frequently Costa Brava restaurant Can Fabes, and has earned his
changing onboard menus, just as it does in all his mentor’s full confidence and respect.
restaurants on terra firma. Chef Santi has a fondness Across in Dubai, the Ossiano restaurant experience
for seafood, garden fresh vegetables and wild herbs. takes you into an elegant blue-hued space, which is

August 2010 41
 TRAVEL

a Brava is

CORBIS
s h fr o m the Cost. His cuisine
llfi rks
Above: Fuente de Fresh shehef Santi’s hallma sophy that is
n e o f C r y p h il o ith a
Cibeles at the Plaza o s a culina mporary w
de Cibeles is one expresse itional and conte
of Madrid’s most both tradrish.
famous landmarks. wild flou
In the background
is the famous
Edificio Metropolis.
Right: Santceloni, Antoni Tápies who is known for his innovative use of
which has
two Michelin thick, rough textures, tears and cuts in the canvas and
stars, reflects collage in his paintings. “I have a profound respect
Santamaria’s
for Tápies work and there are similarities between his
philosophy of
mixing old and new output and mine,” Chef Santi explains. “Tápies shows
in its decor. the relationship with matter and his environment in
his art. He paints to stir our consciousness, making
us more aware of elements which go beyond mere
physical appearances and become something spiritual
and visceral.”
Speaking about his own kitchen team and the work
of other chefs in Spain he explains, “I’m glad that
young Spanish chefs are enthusiastic about getting
dominated by the famous full-wall aquarium where involved in modern cuisine.” However, he stresses
a variety of sea creatures parade by. Small tapas set that, like most art forms, before you can venture into
the scene with delicacies such as apple and whitebait the avant-garde, you need to have a sound base in
mince served with a dollop of caviar, or the buttery the traditional techniques. “Without the basics, such
Tasmanian salmon medallions which seem to melt on as how to cut meat and vegetables, understanding
the tongue. Other menu highlights are the crab meat
infused with orange essence.
His latest venture, Santi, is found on the second TRAVEL INFORMATION
floor of the just opened Marina Bay Sands complex Madrid has hot, dry summers with temperatures of
in Singapore. Unlike his other restaurants, Santi will 39ºC to 41ºC. Winters are usually mild, ranging from
2ºC to 10ºC with mostly sunny days. August is a
have a different style. “You’ll find Asian influences great month to visit. Enjoy the long days exploring the
on the menu,” says Santamaria. “I don’t like to make streets before dining late after the temperatures drop.
replicas of my restaurants. I want each one to have its Currency is the Euro (¤1 = US$1.23 approximately).
own character.” GETTING THERE
Ask Chef Santi if he considers himself to be an EMIRATES fly between Dubai and Madrid daily.
‘old-school’ chef and he sidesteps the question. “The Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays.com for
aim of my job is to combine tradition, cultural values more details.
and creativity,” he says. It’s a theory that has worked RESOURCES
wonders and earned him no less than seven Michelin For complete listings of where to stay and eat, as well
stars across his four restaurants in Spain. However, if as what’s on, visit the official Madrid Tourism website
esmadrid.com or turismomadrid.es. The central
you want to get Santi Santamaria talking passionately Tourist Office is located in Plaza Mayor 27
about a topic other than food, mention art, (+34 915 881 636).
particularly works by Spanish contemporary artist

42 Open Skies
 TRAVEL

Above: Sergi cooking temperatures and correct seasoning, you white variety, wild mushrooms, seafood and game
Arola’s Gastro cannot move on or capture the diner’s imagination.” give the menu a varied hue as the months pass by.
restaurant has two
Michelin stars. The He also highlights that it is not easy to maintain Must try dishes for the gourmand are razor clams
restaurant, close a three-Michelin-star rating for restaurants these garnished with caviar and green beans, or veal terrine
to Paseo de la
days – something he has done year after year since with foie, pistachios and puréed figs. But make sure
Castellana, offers
four tasting menus Can Fabes was first awarded the accolade in 1994. you keep room to try some of the amazing selection
as well as á la carte. “The world is turning into a different place with of cheeses from across Europe.
Below: Spanish globalisation and the present economic crisis affecting There are many other tastes to discover in
Chef Ferran Adriá’s
El Bulli restaurant restaurants worldwide,” he says. Although success Madrid. Catalan chef, Sergi Arola’s two Michelin
was scored as seems to be his, he is not resting on his laurels this starred restaurant Gastro, found in a quiet street
the world’s best
year. Creating the menus for Emirates over the not far from the bustling thoroughfare Paseo de la
restaurant in the
San Pellegrino coming months and his new restaurant Santi in Castellana, offers plenty of flexibility with its four
World’s 50 Best Singapore will be a priority, as well as finishing his
Restaurants 2009,
making it four years
in a row.
latest recipe book.
If you have discovered the joys of Santi Santamaria’s
TRAVEL INFORMATION
cuisine onboard, then don’t miss the opportunity to WHERE TO EAT
enjoy more dishes at his restaurant Santceloni in the SANTCELONI, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912
108 840; restaurantesantceloni.com). Gastronomic
heart of Madrid. Executive chef, Óscar Velasco, has
menu from €132 per person.
stuck to his mentor’s guiding principles and based
SERGI AROLA GASTRO, Calle Zurbano 3
the menu on the best seasonal produce. Santceloni’s
(+34 913 102 169; sergiarola.es). Tasting menus
team’s strong beliefs in excellence have been rewarded from €105 to €160 per person.
with two Michelin stars. Truffles, including the rare
LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO, Calle de Alcalá 15
(+34 915 321 275; casinodemadrid.es). Set menus
from €128 per person.
FORA BY RAMÓN FREIXA, Calle Claudio Coello 67
(+34 917 818 262; ramonfreixamadrid.com). Tasting
menus from €65 to €95 per person.

WHERE TO STAY
HESPERIA, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912 108
800; hesperia.com). Relax in five star luxury in a
contemporary setting.
WESTIN PALACE, Plaza de las Cortes 7 (+34 913 608
000; westinpalacemadrid.com). Enjoy the sumptuous
rooms and suites, which are a stone’s throw from all
the major museums.
HOTEL SELENZA, Calle Claudio Coello 67
(+34 917 810 173; selenzahoteles.es). Driven by
design, this boutique hotel offers a lush garden
GETTY IMAGES

terrace as well as the restaurant Fora by Ramón

Freixa.

44 Open Skies
 TRAVEL

tasting menus, as well as ‘á la carte’. During the day, pop original gastronomic selection including the popular small
in to enjoy lighter fare, including steamed clams drizzled Tapi dishes, which comprise some surprising combinations
with a delicate vinaigrette sauce, or a summer favourite, the including oyster tartar and shredded foie gras with eel. Chef
gourmet vegetable wrap. Evenings are more formal and, Roncero skilfully combines textures, contrasting temperatures
although the menu changes every two months, there is and flavours throughout the menu. The desserts, which
usually an emphasis on fresh seafood and fish. Dishes which include small treats with chocolate mint and peach, are often
have helped him maintain his two Michelin stars are the whimsical creations that will leave you truly satisfied but
slow-cooked sole crusted with black olives and accompanied wanting to return.
by artichokes, or the stingray fin served with stewed green Expect the unexpected at the one-Michelin-starred Fora,
lentils. A juicy prime beef steak comes with a variety of situated in Madrid’s sophisticated Salamanca district. The
tantalising morsels including Granny Smith gelée, celery stunning interior incorporates both Baroque and contemporary
marmalade, a hot apple and mascarpone wafer sandwich and elements. Fora’s menu and the dish presentation are, while
apple and celery ice-cream. Desserts are equally imaginative. highly refined, also fun. Chef Ramón Freixa, who hails from
Don’t miss the white chocolate and truffle mousse served Catalonia, explains that he aims for the dining experience
with a hot infusion made from cocoa and rosemary. “to be entertaining.” The gastronomic brilliance begins
Master chef Ferran Adrià, whose restaurant El Bulli has with crunchy vegetable wafers hanging from a fine wire
been repeatedly named ‘Best restaurant in the world’, is the between two chrome supports. Follow on with tapas-style
gastronomic consultant for the two-Michelin-starred La Terraza snacks, which may include Chef Ramón’s highly original
del Casino, found just a short stroll from Madrid’s emblematic ‘deconstructed hamburger’– a delicious mix of duck meat,
La Puerta del Sol square. However, the man creating the green mustard ice-cream, Ibiazábal cheese and crunchy bread.
magic on a day-to-day basis is Chef Paco Roncero. During the Menu highlights are the roasted red mullet served with two
summer months guests can enjoy the outdoor area and dine side dishes; brioche toast with bay leaf and anchovy, and red
alfresco under the stars. La Terraza del Casino offers a truly peppers and fried bread. Such are the tastes of Madrid! ❖

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 48hours

SINGAPORE
Dynamic and endlessly fascinating, Singapore is an exciting blend of east and
west, old and new. This small island-city state brimming with unbridled energy is
also one of the greenest cities in the world, with rainforest and wetland reserves
on its doorstep, reports Gilly Pickup.

WHY GO? Shoppers tend to gravitate towards the famed retail

Singapore is a beacon of efficiency, high-technology stretch of Orchard Road with its vast, air-conditioned
and cleanliness. It has a wealth of top-class, stylish malls. Get your fix of glossy names like Versace, Louis
restaurants, hotels, no shortage of state-of-the-art Vuitton, Chanel and every other couture label you
spas and arguably the best shopping in Southeast can think of, then head to Chinatown where the early
Asia. Nightlife is full on and fizzing too. Simply put, Chinese settlers once worked and lived. Seething
Singapore is a veritable feast for the senses, a heady with vitality, shops offer the real ethnic deal and sell
mixture of the familiar and the exotic. Sometimes antiques, fabrics in rainbow colours, snacks, herbs
it is criticised for its seemingly petty regulations, and jewellery.
including the banning of chewing gum, but crime Pay a visit to Southeast Asia’s first Universal Studios
is virtually unknown making this one of the world’s theme park on Sentosa Island. This family orientated
safest places to visit. resort offers everything from sports events, arts
festivals and concerts to fun rides based on popular
WHAT TO DO movies like Madagascar and Shrek. Visit Sci-Fi city,
Nature lovers will enjoy the Botanic Gardens, an oasis explore the Lost World, the mystical land of Far Far
in the city’s heart. A magnificent plant collection spans Away and Marine Life Park where you can snorkel
over 52 hectares and include the Evolution Garden with rays and come face to fin with some of the
and the Ginger Garden. If you love orchids – and who ocean’s most fascinating creatures.
doesn’t – the National Orchid Garden is a must see
with its huge displays of sprawling blooms. WHERE TO STAY
Still on the nature theme, come face to face with The Ritz-Carlton is no ordinary hotel. For starters,
birdlife at the Jurong Bird Park, home to Southeast treasures on view include works by Frank Stella,
Asia’s largest bird collection. Explore the world’s Andy Warhol and Dale Chihuly, Rainer Gross’
largest walk-in aviary, the habitat of around geometric compositions and the botanicals of
1,500 flying birds. Popular with visitors are Robert Zakanitch. Set in just under three hectares
the endangered Bali Mynahs. In the wild of landscaped grounds it exudes a sense of peace,
they number only 50, but the park has four despite its busy Marina Bay location. (Ritz-
dedicated sanctuaries that house them. Carlton Hotel, Raffles Avenue, tel: +65 6337 8888,
The goal is to breed them and when ready, ritzcarlton.com.)
release them back into the wild to bolster Singapore’s most famous hotel is Raffles, the
their dwindling population. timeless symbol of colonial opulence. It dates
While you’re out and about, take a trip from 1887 and is named after Singapore’s founder,
along Singapore River on a bumboat. These
were once used to ferry goods to and Opposite page (clockwise from top): The Sentosa chair lift links
from larger ships moored in the harbour, the entertainment hub of Sentosa Beach with the Imbiah Lookout
area; A 30-minute bumboat ride along the Singapore River is a
but today they offer an excellent great way to explore the city’s heart; There’s no shortage of food
way to see the contrasting courts serving cheap but tasty food; Orchard Road is world famous
for its upmarket shopping; The Singapore Botanical Gardens,
architectural styles of the city.
which was founded in 1859, covers 52 hectares; Escape the city
The commentary provides and enjoy some sand and sea on Sentosa Island; A view towards
a history lesson as you glide the Esplanade. In the foreground is the new Esplanade concert hall
that is modelled on the spiky durian fruit; The Chinese Garden is a
by colonial-era buildings and park in Jurong East; Endangered Bali Mynahs are being bred at the
modern skyscrapers. Jurong Bird Park.

48 Open Skies
CORBIS

CORBIS
48hours
 TRAVEL INFORMATION
Although the wettest months are November to
January and the driest May to July, there is actually
very little year-round variation in weather patterns.
Don’t forget to take a brolly with you though,
unexpected tropical downpours happen quite often!
(S$1= US$0.72 approximately).
GETTING THERE
EMIRATES flies three times daily between Dubai
and Singapore. See emirates.com or emirates-
holidays.com for more information.
RESOURCES
Get all the information you need from the Singapore
Tourism Board (yoursingapore.com).
FURTHER READING
LONELY PLANET’S SINGAPORE and INSIGHT
GUIDE SINGAPORE are helpful books, which
include restaurant recommendations, where to stay,
what to see and local information.
For a lighthearted look at local dialect ‘Singlish’, get
a copy of the COXFORD SINGLISH DICTIONARY,
which tells you all you need to know about
‘Singapore English’ (singlishdictionary.com).
Top: Trishaws, or Sir Stamford Raffles. Famed for its luxurious
pedal rickshaws, FAST FACT
were introduced to
accommodation and superb restaurants, the hotel
The zippy Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) train is a
Singapore in 1914 houses a tropical garden courtyard, museum and clean, safe, inexpensive way to get round. Most
and quickly spread Victorian-style theatre. (Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, major tourist attractions are located within easy
through Southeast
Tel: +65 6337 1886, raffles.com) walking distance of a station.
Asia. An hour-long
journey to explore
Sentosa Island
costs around S$36.
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK prepare and you’ll appreciate this when you see the
Above: The
Pack your appetite as food is taken mega-seriously Nonya flower crabs, assam tiger prawns and itik
Singapore Flyer, here. Dishes you are likely to discover include chilli sioh (stewed duck).
which is 165 metres crab, (crabs cooked in thick gravy with a tomato and Wine and dine amid tranquil tree-lined paths
high, provides the
perfect vantage chilli base) and barbecued stingray, a dish unique to at Rochester Park. This heritage area bursts with
point to admire the Singapore which comes smothered in sambal, a chilli- swish restaurants housed in whitewashed colonial
city skyline.
based sauce, and served on a banana leaf. Fish head villas. Check out One Rochester, the decor is
curry is a red snapper fish head cooked with vegetables stunning, and it has a relaxed garden area where you
in curry sauce. Granted, it may not appeal to everyone, can eat alfresco.
but it turns up in dining venues everywhere. The
traditional accompaniment to this local delicacy is a TRIP TIP
glass of ‘calamansi’ (local lime juice). Take a trishaw ride. This traditional three-wheeled
Newton Food Centre is one of Singapore’s favourite mode of transport carries two passengers and is a
supper hotspots with food stalls set round a bustling novel way to see Chinatown and other ethnic areas
square. Relax and watch the world go by while you up close.
sip a drink and tuck into a plate of Hokkien mee
(wok-fried noodles with shrimps and squid). It is safe MUST DO
to eat from the street vendors here as all purveyors of Take a trip on the Singapore Flyer (singaporeflyer.
food are subject to government inspection. com) on Raffles Avenue. At 165 metres, the giant
The House of Peranakan Cuisine (10 Claymore observation wheel provides breathtaking views of
Road), has a thatched roof stage and kitschy Singapore’s skylines and Marina Bay. One leisurely
mannequins dotted around. Heritage cuisine is circuit in a capsule the size of a bus (UV protection
served in bubbling claypots and vintage crockery. in the glass shields passengers from the hot sun)
Peranakan cuisine is one of the most complex to takes 30 minutes. ❖
 Malaysia Contemporary
Art Tourism Festival
July 1 – September 30, 2010

"Contemporary art is a passion

that unites discerning travellers
and tourists alike from all corners
of the world..."

Dato' Sri Dr. Ng Yen Yen

Minister of Tourism, Malaysia

Malaysia’s contemporary art scene is a reecƟon of the country itself. It is

varied, mulƟcultural and resists stringent deniƟon.

Just like Malaysia, a naƟon whose historic sites, towers of modernity and
glimpses of nature promise surprises and memories on every visit.

For the rst Ɵme ever, Malaysia’s Ministry of Tourism hosts the 1Malaysia
Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval.

The fesƟval encompasses exhibiƟons, seminars, compeƟƟons and other fringe

events at various locaƟons around the country.

Come see how Malaysia’s renowned contemporary arƟsts have expertly woven
her history, naƟonal idenƟty, landscapes and people into painƟngs,
sculptures, photographs, installaƟons and more.

Whether it is abstract works that channel arƟsƟc soul, mixed media art that
shows oī arƟsƟc ingenuity or guraƟve works that display arƟst prowess,
Malaysia has it all.
Fatamorgana #2 The State of Confusion > 2006, oil on canvas, 244 x 150cm

The 1Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval is not to be missed. Visit

Malaysia and take part in history.

Events in Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Johor and Penang | JUL 1 – SEPT 30, 2010 |

MCAT ExhibiƟon 2010 Art Seminar

Galeria Sri Perdana Starhill Gallery The Inuence of Mahathirism on The Aliya & Farouk Khan
3 July – 30 September 2010 July – September 2010 Contemporary Art CollecƟon Art Seminar
www.arkib.gov.my www.starhillgallery.com MaTic, Jalan Ampang Galeri Seni Rakyat, Melaka
20 – 24 September 2010 1 – 3 August 2010
Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTic) Galeri Seni Rakyat (Folk Art Gallery)
15 July – 30 September 2010 1 August – 30 September 2010 IMCAS 2010 –The Aliya & Farouk Malaysia Contemporary
www.mtc.gov.my www.perzim.gov.my Khan CollecƟon Art Seminar Art Tourism Seminar
Danga City Mall, Johor Penang
Balai Seni Lukis Negara i-City Contemporary Art ExhibiƟon 27 September – 1 October 2010 18 – 19 August 2010
(NaƟonal Art Gallery) 11 August – 9 September 2010
July – September 2010 A Curatorial Discourse on the MALAYSIA’S FIRST EVER
www.artgallery.gov.my IMCAS 2010 Danga City Mall Making of an Artwork ART AUCTION
July – September 2010 12 Gallery, Kuala Lumpur Wisma Bentley Music
Galeri Petronas (Petronas Gallery) www.dangacitymall.com 8 – 10 July 2010 PJU 7/2, MuƟara Damansara
July – September 2010 Petaling Jaya
www.galeripetronas.com.my 1-8 August 2010

MINISTRY OF TOURISM MALAYSIA

Menara Dato' Onn, Putra World Trade Centre, 45 Jalan Tun Ismail, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 603-2693 7111 www.motour.gov.my www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my
 dubaidiary

UPCOMING
THE HOT LIST
The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.
EVENTS

IFTARS
Ewaan This Ramadan there is no better place to enjoy an alluring Arabian
experience than at the Iftar buffet at Ewaan. The interior design and the RAMADAN ART BAZAAR
bustling authentic atmosphere promise a perfect Arabian night. Iftar buffet is AUGUST 15 TO SEPTEMBER 9
from sunset to 9pm
As part of celebrating Ramadan
The Palace – The Old Town, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 428 7951
this year, the renowned Al Ghaf
Armani/Mediterraneo Savour breathtaking views of the Dubai Fountain Gallery in Abu Dhabi is presenting
while breaking fast at this elegant yet relaxed new restaurant. The Iftar buffet the Ramadan Art Bazaar. The
serves the finest cuisine from the Mediterranean region and beyond. event gives 24 emerging artists
Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Tel: +971 4 367 3699
the opportunity to showcase their
The Terrace ‘Ramadan Nights at The Terrace’ offers the chance to enjoy a creations. With prices capped at a
variety of gourmet delights as you relax with friends and family by the beautiful maximum of Dhs4,000, it offers an
waterfront of the Dubai Creek. A full Ramadan Sohour menu is available. exciting chance to own an original
Park Hyatt, Deira, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222 work by up-and-coming artists.
Viewing hours are 9am – 1pm and
8pm – 11pm Saturday to Thursday.
SPAS ghafgallery.blogspot.com
Caracalla Spread over three floors, Caracalla is well worth a visit for the
Roman-themed baths, excellent gym and the deft ability of the highly trained
‘BLUE SKIE’D AND
therapists to ease away city stress and leave you thoroughly rejuvenated.
Le Royal Méridien, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 399 5555 CLEAR’ – EXPANDING THE
PHOTOGRAPHIC HORIZON
The Spa at The Address Dubai Mall Flawless service, expert therapists, a UNTIL SEPTEMBER 15
broad selection of treatments and a great terrace pool are just a few reasons to Carbon 12 is a popular international
visit this top class spa. All within the understated design elegance synonymous
art gallery in Dubai that focuses
with Address hotels.
The Address Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 438 8888 on international contemporary fine
art. This group exhibition features
Urban Male Lounge This brand new counterpart to the DIFC spa continues the photographic work of Birgit
its successful formula of providing male indulgence in looking and feeling sharp. Graschopf, Yuko Ichikawa, Maria
With an extensive treatment menu, you can enjoy a hand and foot massage, hair
Maeser, Jamie Baldridge, Maximillian
cut, beard trim, facials and more – all while watching your own personal TV.
Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999 Pramatarov and Hazem Mahdy.
carbon12dubai.com

RESTAURANTS RAMADAN FAIR

Andiamo! Italian food with flare and a casual yet exuberantly stylish interior AUGUST 19 – SEPTEMBER 11
distinguish Andiamo as a great place to eat. An authentic wood-burning oven Taking place in the neighbouring
cooks superb pizzas and the meats, pasta and seafood are equally good. emirate of Sharjah, the Ramadan Fair
Grand Hyatt, Garhoud, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222
is inspired by the grand celebrations
West Beach Bistro This new eaterie on The Walk presents fine gastronomical of Eid Al Fitr (breaking the fast).
fare from a chef that trained with Gordon Ramsey in the UK before bringing his Located in the Expo Centre Sharjah,
gastronomic talents to Dubai. Enjoy the understated design, wafting jazz and it is a multi-product consumer fair
refined innovative flavours. with family entertainment. Expo
Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 449 8888
Centre Sharjah is easily accessible
La Parrilla always features in restaurant awards for its steaks and Latin from Dubai International Airport.
American cuisine. The accolades are well deserved as the meat here is world ramadanfair.ae
class and cooked to perfection. The 25th floor view, live band and tasteful
design are just bonuses. WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES
Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999 BY THE EDITORS OF MAGAZINE.

52 Open Skies
 coolstuff

LET THESE
ENTERTAIN YOU
Your mobile does music and video, but plays second
stage when compared to these media maestros.
1 SONY NWZ-A845 | US$230 | sony.com
This is Sony’s attempt to quash the iPod Nano. It’s in
the same price territory as its 16GB counterpart, but
has a bigger, OLED screen and packs a decent pair of
bundled buds (worth about US$100). Movies look crisp
and clear, and the sound, via the ace noise cancelling
earphones, is second only to Apple’s ’Pod.

2 CREATIVE ZEN X-FI STYLE | US$150 | creative.com

This pint-sized portable has an impressive gigabyte-
to-pound ratio with cutesy stylings. It ticks all the
boxes, apart from Mac compatibility, with extensive
format support, FM radio and mic with a tiny (read
piddly) speaker. It can play AVI vids with clarity, but
the Sony and iPod dig up more detail. Still, for this
price, you can hardly complain.
1

3 APPLE IPOD NANO | US$215 | apple.com

The fifth-generation Nano looks quite like its
predecessor, but its list of extras includes a bigger
screen, FM radio and video camera. Get rid of the
bundled buds and the Nano sounds better than any of
the players here. Videos are sharp, although the screen 3
can be a bit small for films. Still, the iTunes store is
stocked with them as well as TV shows and music.

4 ARCHOS 3 VISION | US$115 | archos.com

It only has 8GB, but the Archos 3 Vision is great value.
An FM transmitter, FM radio and recording from radio
or built-in mic are spec highlights. Music is upbeat and
fun (although you’ll have to upgrade the earphones) and
4
movies are watchable even if the colours apper slightly
faded. Unfortunately, the touchscreen’s virtual scroll-wheel
is a tad inaccurate. 2

54 Open Skies
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 departure

The Pink Lake

LATITUDE: 14° 15’ 19”
LONGITUDE: -17° 14’ 2”

CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

CORBIS

O
ne of the stranger sights in Senegal is Lake Retba, which
is also known as Lac Rose thanks to its pink hue caused
by cyanobacteria in the water. The lake is also known
●
for its high salt content which, like that of the Dead Sea,
● The Pink Lake allows people to float with no swimming required. Every litre of water
DAKAR SENEGAL contains around 280 grammes of salt, so it is no surprise that Lake
Retba supports a salt mining industry. The salt is collected from the
bottom of the shallow lake and transported by boat to shore where it
is packaged and sent to market. ❖

56 Open Skies
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CHARRED OAK CASKS. THESE FLAVOURS ARE HARNESSED TOGETHER

TO CREATE AN EXCEPTIONAL RESULT. A BOLD NEW ADDITION TO THE

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P L E AS E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY The JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL and DOUBLE BLACK words, the Striding Figure device and associated logos are trade marks. ©John Walker & Sons 2010.
Emirates News
■ Emvironment ■ Comfort in the Air ■ U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms ■ Route Map

New Order for Boeing 777-300ERs

Emirates has ordered 30 more Boeing 777- Albaugh, President and CEO of Boeing Commercial Above: (From left) Jim
300ER aircraft, worth around US$9.1 billion (AED Airplanes, were signatories. Albaugh, President
and CEO, Boeing
33.4 billion) in list prices, adding to its fleet of 71 Emirates once again affirmed its aim to become Commercial Airplanes,
H.H. Sheikh Ahmed
777-300ERs previously ordered, of which 53 are a global leader in air travel, with Dubai as a central bin Saeed Al Maktoum,
currently in service. gateway, and signals clear confidence in the growth Chairman and Chief
Executive, Emirates
The signing took place at last month’s of aviation. Airline and Group, H.H.
Farnborough Air Show and was witnessed by The 777-300ER will be operated with three Sheikh Mohammed bin
Rashid Al Maktoum,
His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al classes with eight First Class suites, 42 Business Prime Minister and
Maktoum, Prime Minister and Vice President of Class seats and 310 Economy Class seats plus Vice President of the
United Arab Emirates
the UAE and Ruler of Dubai. His Highness Sheikh a cargo payload of 20.1 tonnes. Emirates has 86 and Ruler of Dubai,
Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief 777s in service – three -200s, six -200ERs, 10 and David Joyce,
President and CEO,
Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, and Jim -200LRs, 12 -300s, 53 -300ERs and two freighters. GE Aviation.

August 2010 59
 Emirates news

Go There!
Emirates Holidays is offering tailor-made packages to Amsterdam
and Prague following the launch of Emirates’ direct flights to both
cities from Dubai.
Amsterdam, capital of The Netherlands, is famed for its diversity,
relaxed attitude and rich cultural history.
Prague, capital of the Czech Republic and a UNESCO World
Heritage site, has an almost fairytale quality with its medieval roots,
castles and cobbled courtyards.
Emirates Holidays’ Economy Class packages to Amsterdam from
Dubai range from AED6,289 to AED9,700 per person. Offers are valid
to 31st August 2010.
Economy Class packages to Prague from Dubai range from AED
3,914 per person to AED4,075 per person. Business Class packages
range from AED12,786 per person to AED12,947 per person. Offers
are valid to 12th September 2010.
Each package includes return flights with Emirates, three nights’
accommodation on a twin-sharing basis with breakfast, airport
transfers, room tax and service charges. Packages to Prague also
include a half-day city tour.
Skywards members will receive up to 20 per cent bonus Miles when
they book these packages. Terms and conditions apply.
Medieval castles lend a
fairytale atmosphere to For more information, contact Emirates Holidays on 800 5252 (from
Prague.
Dubai), visit emirates-holidays.com or contact preferred travel agents.

Dakar Offer
Senegal is famous for its hospitality but Emirates customers First Class passengers will receive a free two-night
now have another reason to visit this West African nation – a stay at the five-star Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel,
free hotel stay in Dubai to break their journey. while Business Class travellers will be offered a one-night
To celebrate the launch of its new route to Dakar on complimentary stay. The offer applies to return journeys
1st September 2010, Emirates is offering First Class and taken by passengers travelling exclusively
Business Class passengers a complimentary stay at a with Emirates between the 1st and
leading hotel in Dubai, plus a free 96 hour visa, when they the 30th of September.
book a return flight to the Senegalese capital.

60 Open Skies
 Emirates news

Calling All Artists!

Cut the Cost of
Excess Baggage
Emirates launched a competition last
month to find promising artists
whose winning works will be
featured on the Gold, Silver
and Blue membership
cards of Skywards, the
airline’s frequent flyer
programme. In addition,
the winners will each
receive US$5,000 and
will be flown to Dubai
where they can display the
winning artwork and their
portfolio at the Art Dubai fair.
But hurry! The closing date for
entries is 31st August. The winners will be
announced on 25th September.
A passenger who has purchased additional baggage service checks in at the airport.
Skywards launched new-look
Passengers travelling on Emirates routes that charge by the piece, you membership cards in January featuring
can cut the cost of excess baggage. can buy one, two or three additional works by Damien Hirst, Christopher Ries
Just pre-pay online at emirates.com bags of up to 32 kilos each and Simone Cenedese. Now, the airline is
and you can reduce what you pay Purchases are non-refundable and looking for fresh artworks to replace them.
for additional bags by as much as non-transferable and must be made For Gold cards, the challenge is to create
15 per cent. between 24 hours and 90 minutes a work of art that embodies opulence and
Here’s how it works. First weigh before departure. luxury. For Silver, the winning work will
your bags. Then go to Manage Terms and conditions apply. This reflect sophistication, intelligence and
Your Booking on the emirates.com facility is available on most routes but richness. For Blue, Emirates is looking for
website to buy your extra kilos. is not available for departures from something edgy, surprising and fresh that
On routes that charge for excess just a few select cities. Full details are challenges expectations.
baggage by weight, you can buy an available at Manage Your Booking on For full details and to enter the
extra five, 10, 15, 20 or 25 kilos. On emirates.com. competition, go to ourfutureartists.com.

Emirates Launches New Lounge

Emirates recently celebrated the opening of its latest luxury lounge The new Emirates Lounge at Shanghai
Pudong International Airport.
in Shanghai. The lounge serves the airline’s First Class and Business
Class passengers and Gold members of Skywards travelling from
Pudong International Airport.
This is the 27th lounge to open on the Emirates network and the
second in China after Beijing. Emirates currently operates non-stop
flights between Dubai and Shanghai twice daily.
Located in the International Departure Concourse next to Gate 75,
the new lounge is the first dedicated lounge in Terminal 2 and the only
one in the airport that offers an extensive menu of complimentary hot
and cold gourmet dishes, plus a full bar service.
The lounge can hold 165 passengers at any one time. Its luxurious
amenities include designer shower rooms, cream leather couches,
52-inch plasma TVs and a fully equipped Business Centre with internet
access and wi-fi.

62 Open Skies
Tempting Offer for
Skywards Gold Members
The Meydan Hotel, overlooking Dubai’s Meydan
racetrack, raises the bar for five-star service, style and
sheer indulgence. All of which makes the hotel’s offer to
Skywards Gold members seriously attractive.
The offer includes a three-day stay at two-day rates,
a 50-per-cent discount when dining at Prime, Shiba and
Farriers restaurants, and a 20-per-cent discount on Friday
Brunch at Farriers (these discounts are not applicable during
horse-racing weekends). In addition, there’s a 10-per-cent
discount offered on gym membership and a complimentary
30-minute massage in the hotel’s spa upon joining.
The offer is valid from 25th July 2010 to 25th July 2011.
To make reservations, please call +971 4 364 7147 or
email [email protected]

Football for Hope

As the 2010 FIFA
World CupTM final
reached its climax
in Johannesburg
last month, four
members of
Emirates’
cabin crew
discovered a whole Emirates cabin crew at the Football
new ball game. for Hope centre in the township of
Khayelitsha, Cape Town.
They visited the
Football for Hope Centre, in the Cape Town township of
Khayelitsha, which is funded by FIFA and the six Official
FIFA Partners – of which Emirates is one. The girls
(Carolina Rodriguez from Argentina, Joanna Boyd from
New Zealand, Vivienne Seiler from Canada and Claire
Overton from the UK) saw for themselves how Emirates
has helped to deliver long-term benefits through its
sponsorship of the FIFA World Cup.
The Football for Hope Centre in Cape Town, run by
Grassroot Soccer, is the first of 20 to be built throughout
Africa as part of the legacy of the 2010 FIFA World Cup.
The aim of each centre is to promote public health
education in disadvantaged communities through a
shared love of football.
The Cape Town centre has a superb turf pitch, which
is the main attraction but, in addition to football, it offers
a strong education programme with special emphasis on
teaching about HIV and AIDS. So young people not only
get to enjoy the beautiful game, but learn how to develop
a healthy lifestyle as well.
 ‘Emvironment’ (definition): Emirates’ environmental programme – a wide range of initiatives aimed at
continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the
natural environment and the 100 plus destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental
milestones – each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In
this edition, we look at the world’s rapidly disappearing biodiversity and Emirates’ efforts to protect it.

BIODIVERSITY – WHAT’S THE PROBLEM?

Biodiversity or ‘species richness’ is defined as the variety of
life forms on the planet, or within a given area. The Global
Taxonomy Initiative believes that of the 13.8 million different
species estimated to be on Earth, only 1.7 million (12.8%)
have actually been identified. Of those that have been
identified, less than 1% have been studied.
The International Union for the Conservation of Nature Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is located on a small
(IUCN) estimates that biodiversity loss is now occurring at portion of the reserve and allows guests to experience the
1,000 times the natural rate. Apart from the ethical issue natural beauty of the DDCR. The resort has been built using
of species extinction there are also huge commercial and sustainable building principles and helps fund ongoing
human health implications as many species play critical conservation works in the DDCR.
roles in ecosystem health. Many other species are important
potential sources of life-saving medicines. Key threats to EMIRATES WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA –
biodiversity include: AUSTRALIA
● Habitat loss and degradation Emirates recently opened
● Introduction of invasive alien species its second conservation-
● Over-exploitation of natural resources based luxury tourism
● Pollution and diseases development in
● Human-induced climate change Australia’s Wolgan Valley.
The resort is located on
WHAT IS EMIRATES DOING ABOUT IT? just 2% of a magnificent
Emirates is reducing its impact on the environment by 1,600 hectare conservation area, within the World Heritage-
investing billions of dollars in the latest, fuel-efficient, low listed Blue Mountains region. The area is home to the incredibly
emissions, low-noise aircraft. As part of our ‘Emvironment’ rare Wollemi Pine (Wollemia nobilis), a living fossil plant.
programme we are leading the way in reducing waste, and As well as using sustainable building practices to protect and
maximising energy and water efficiency in ground operations. minimise impacts on the local environment, the A$125 million
Emirates has also pioneered the concept of conservation- project also included the planting of nearly 200,000 indigenous
based luxury tourism projects, with developments in the UAE, plant species. Parts of the site are also enclosed with specially
Australia and the Seychelles. These conservation projects built ‘feral-proof’ fencing. These protected habitats will be used
take on a special significance in 2010, the United Nation’s for the re-introduction of endangered marsupial species such
International Year of Biodiversity. as Potoroos and Bettongs.

EMIRATES AL MAHA DESERT RESORT & SPA - DUBAI EMIRATES CAP TERNAY RESORT & SPA –
The wadis, deserts and coasts of the United Arab Emirates SEYCHELLES
are extremely fragile ecosystems, with 63 endangered animal The latest Emirates conservation project is the Cap Ternay
species in the UAE alone (IUCN, 2010). Emirates worked with resort, on the spectacular north-western tip of Mahé Island in
the Dubai government to set up the 225km2 Dubai Desert the Seychelles. Adjoining the Cap Matoopa Nature Reserve
Conservation Reserve (DDCR), the UAE’s first nature reserve, and Baie Ternay Marine Sanctuary, the site is surrounded
which covers almost five per cent of Dubai’s total land area. The by areas of ecological significance. The resort will include
DDCR is home to a number of threatened species, such as the extensive ecological restoration works, while adhering to
Arabian Oryx, Gordon’s Wildcat and the Arabian Red Fox. strict sustainable design principles.

If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the ‘About Emirates’ tab
on emirates.com or email Paul Zissermann, Manager Environment Affairs at [email protected]

64 Open Skies
 Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your

destination feeling fine and
refreshed, Emirates have
developed this collection
of helpful travel tips.
Regardless of whether you
need to rejuvenate for your
holiday or be effective at
achieving your goals on a
business trip, these simple
tips will help you to enjoy
your journey and time
onboard with Emirates today.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical ❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear
concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a pressure during ascent and descent.
respiratory or cardiovascular condition. ❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely
❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.
or special medications? ❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and
❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight. turn frequently.
❖ Eat lightly and sensibly. ❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at
❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock
flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.
❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

SMART TRAVELLER

FOR MORE TIPS

AND ADVICE TO
HELP YOU TO ENJOY
Rehydrate with water or Loosen your clothing, remove Light exercises on your
YOUR FLIGHT AND
juices frequently. Drink tea your jacket and avoid anything lower legs and calf muscles ARRIVE AT YOUR
and coffee in moderation. encourages blood flow and
pressing against your body that
constricts your blood circulation. helps reduce muscle fatigue
DESTINATION FEELING
and swelling in the feet. FRESH, LOOK OUT
FOR MESSAGES ON
AIRSHOW, OR REFER
TO YOUR INFLIGHT
ENTERTAINMENT
GUIDE FOR
Carry only essential items Cabin air is drier than normal Apply a good quality skin
that you will need during therefore we recommend moisturiser to ensure your
PROGRAMME
your flight. that you wear glasses skin doesn’t dry out due to DETAILS.
during flights. the drier cabin air.

August 2010 65
 Guide to US customs & immigration forms
Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US
customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle
free as possible.

The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple
guidelines on correctly completing the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be
completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ARABIC

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8 E#'c{wBƱ'“gB c {4_±'š_ƒ}?„Bbu? ™Gu>_{w±'c’&_ƒA'/'u>#'/s9 3
cG_9uA'
9
10
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11
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13
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14 sƒ*„&_{z(E#'f_jd˜•’AkGEÒA—spd{w*
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)smd±' )smd±'f_G­žA'

Helpful ❖ Complete the forms prior to landing.

❖ Use a pen and write in capital letters.
Hints ❖ Complete every line.
❖ Ensure you write in the correct space.
❖ If you are in transit through the US, write ‘transit’ in the address field.
❖ If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.

66 Open Skies
 IMMIGRATION FORM

The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of
a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be
completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record
which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US.

If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green

Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT
REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

ARABIC
u‰{wA'2'ž,–?1 f “A“{y‰˜B)1_•d{3'l0ž¼c\`ƒ*ʃdG
c’-uA'–?1š'É}A'c@u{4 g ¡`C_,c\`ƒ*™Bs@#_dA'Ÿ,uGEu>_{wB
cB_?%­'s’( h c\`ƒ*ʃdG_•@_•› ’9„ ?ždA'El0ž•˜A'
c’-uA_(_› >eŒmdA'¡dA'c˜Gs±' i ”_‰7#­_(c{5_°'f'1_•d{3­'l0_¼
_› >)É{4#_dA'1's{5%'«¡dA'c˜Gs±' j E#'™GsA'žA'“`?™B_› ’9„ ?ždA'E
u›{xA'—ž A' )É{4#_dA'1's{5%'qG1_*k s-#'™B)s9_{w±'a’7–˜¿!_ {5E#­'
c˜{wA' uB#­'—vA'0%'cBs°'–?_7/'u>#'
f_G­žA'¬‘/ž,E”Æ.š'ž˜ƒA' l
…1_{xA'“•{xGš#'ʃdG )smd±' c’&_ƒA'–{3' a
”Æ._› >– Œd{3¡dA'cG­žA'Ec˜Gs±'m ”E#­'–{3­' b
)smd±'f_G­žA'¬‘/ž,E c˜{wA'u›{xA'—ž A' /Æ ±'qG1_* c
_@ÉB#'¬(”_{y*­'–?1n c {w˜®'c˜7'ž±'s’( d
¾EÏA%­'sGÁA'o |w˜®' e

a ESTA (ELECTRONIC SYSTEM

b c
FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION)
d e
If you are an international traveller wishing to enter
f
the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now
h g
mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation
j i
(ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.
k
l
ESTA Facts:
m ❖ Children and infants require an individual ESTA.
n
❖ The online ESTA system will inform you whether
o your application has been authorised, not
authorised or if authorisation is pending.
❖ A successful ESTA application is valid for two years,
however this may be revoked or will expire along
with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*:

a Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech
c Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany,
b Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia,
d
Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco,
The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San
Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea,
Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**.
Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you
*Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa
need assistance completing the forms. Waiver Programme.

August 2010 67
 Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations
GREENLAND
GREENLAND

Western
Western
Europe
Europe
Gothenburg
Gothenburg
Kristiansand Kristiansand

SCOTLAND SCOTLAND Varnamo Varnamo

Falkenberg Falkenberg

Glasgow
Glasgow
Edinburgh Edinburgh
DENMARK DENMARK
Copenhagen Copenhagen
Newcastle
NewcastleSunderland Sunderland Nykobing Nykobing
N. IRELAND N. IRELAND Gdansk Gdansk
ENGLAND ENGLAND
IRELAND IRELAND Leeds Leeds Hamburg
Hamburg
Manchester Manchester
Dublin Liverpool
Dublin Liverpool
NETH. NETH.
Birmingham
Birmingham Rotterdam Rotterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Berlin Berlin
Cork Cork
WALES WALES P O L A N DP O L A N D

London London BELGIUM

Brussels
Dusseldorf
BELGIUM
Brussels
Dusseldorf Wroclaw Wroclaw
Breslau Breslau
(Heathrow & Gatwick)
Frankfurt
(Heathrow & Gatwick)
Frankfurt
Luxembourg Luxembourg
Prague Prague
CZECH CZECH
Paris Paris
GERMANY GERMANY Kiru
ViennaVienna
Morlaix Morlaix SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA
Rennes Rennes
Le Mans Le Mans Munich
Joigny Joigny Munich Bratislava Bratislava
Zurich Zurich
AUSTRIA AUSTRIA
Nantes Nantes LIECH. LIECH. Budapest Budapest SWEDEN
FRANCE
Poiters FRANCE
SWITZERLAND
Poiters SWITZERLAND HUNGARY HUNGARY
Echo Bay Echo Bay Geneva Geneva SLOVENIA SLOVENIA Lulea

MilanLyon Milan ICELANDCROATIA

Ljubljana Ljubljana
ICELAND Zagreb Zagreb
Lyon CROATIA
Skelleftea
Baker Lake Baker Lake
Nuuk Nuuk
Bordeaux I T A L Y
Bordeaux
Reykjavik Venice
I T A L Y
Reykjavik Venice
BOSNIA BOSNIA
Bayonne Nice Nice Monaco
Ostersund Os
Bayonne Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Sarajevo Sarajevo
Oviedo Oviedo Ancona Ancona
Rankin Inlet Rankin Inlet Lugo Lugo Marseille Marseille
Burgos ANDORRA
Burgos ANDORRA Torshavn Torshavn NORWAY NORWAY
Vigo Vigo YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA

Porto Zaragoza
Porto Zaragoza Rome Rome Oslo Oslo
MadridMadrid
Naples Naples
Taranto Taranto StockholmStockTa
Fort Chipewyan
Fort Chipewyan Churchill Churchill
Juneau Juneau S P A I N S P A I N
Valencia Valencia
Inukjuak Inukjuak PORTUGAL PORTUGAL
Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas Valdepenas Gothenburg
Gothenburg
Bear Bear Fort McMurrayFort McMurray SCOTLANDSCOTLAND
Lake Lake Dawson CreekDawson Creek DENMARKDENMARK
Thompson Thompson Glasgow Glasgow Copenhagen
CopL
Grande PrairieGrande Prairie
Flin Flon Flin Flon NewcastleNewcastle
N. IRELAND
N. IRELAND
Prince Rupert Prince Rupert ENGLANDENGLAND Gdan
Prince Prince Prince Albert Prince Albert Hamburg Hamburg
POLAND P
Labrador City Labrador City Manchester NETH.
Manchester NETH.
George George
Red Deer Red Deer BirminghamBirmingham
U. K. U. K. W
Saskatoon Saskatoon
Calgary Calgary CANADA CANADA IRELAND IRELAND
WALES WALES GERMANYGERMANY
Kamloops Kamloops London London
Moosonee Moosonee DusseldorfDusseldorf
Krak
Swift Current Swift Current
VancouverVancouver Brandon Brandon Frankfurt Frankfurt
Timmins Amos
Timmins Amos Paris Paris
Williston Williston
Spokane Spokane
Grand Forks Grand Forks Munich Munich
AUSTRIA AUST
Seattle Seattle Nantes NantesZurich Zurich Vienna
Butte Butte Duluth Duluth
Ottawa Montreal Montreal
Ottawa SWITZ. SWITZ.
FRANCE FRANCE
Minneapolis
Minneapolis Venice Veni
Toronto
Toronto
Portland Portland Milan Milan
Bayonne BayonneNice Nice
ITALY ITALY
SERBIA
Twin Falls Twin Falls MilwaukeeMilwaukee
Detroit Detroit
A T LA AT LN AT N
I CT I C
Buffalo Buffalo MONTENEGRO
M
Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago Chicago Boston Boston M
Zaragoza Zaragoza Rome Rome
Reno Reno
Provo Provo
Kansas City
Omaha Omaha
Kansas City Baltimore
ToledoToledo
Baltimore New York
New York Madrid Madrid Naples ALBAN
Nap
PORTUGAL PORTUGAL
SPAIN SPAIN G
Philadelphia
Philadelphia

Tunis Tunis Athen

Denver Denver U. S. A. St.U. S. A. St. Louis Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada
Oakland Oakland Louis Washington Washington
D. C. D. C. Lisbon Lisbon
Sevilla Sevilla
San Francisco
San Francisco Norfolk Norfolk
Las Vegas Memphis Memphis
Albuquerque Albuquerque
Las Vegas Charlotte Charlotte Gibraltar Gibraltar
Algiers Algiers
Malta
Los Angeles
Los Angeles
TUNISIA TUNISIA
Casablanca
Casablanca
Rabat Rabat
Dallas Dallas
Tripoli Tripoli
Tucson Tucson Birmingham Atlanta
Birmingham Atlanta Ouargla Ouargla
San DiegoSan Diego MOROCCOMOROCCO
New Orleans Jacksonville
New Orleans Jacksonville
Canary Islands
Canary Islands ALGERIA ALGERIA
Houston
Houston
Tampa Tampa Reggane Reggane Sabhah Sa
WESTERNWESTERN
MEXICO MEXICO THE BAHAMAS
THE BAHAMAS LIBYA
SAHARA SAHARA
Havana Havana Djanet Djanet
Al Ja
MALI MALI
Mexico City
Mexico City CUBA CUBA DOM. REP.DOM. REP.
MAURITANIA
MAURITANIA Bilma Bilma
JAMAICA JAMAICA
P A PC AI FCIICF I C
Araouane Araouane
BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HAITI Nouakchott
Nouakchott NIGER NIGERCHAD
HONDURASHONDURAS SENEGAL SENEGAL
GUATEMALA
GUATEMALA
Dakar Dakar Bamako Bamako
Niamey Niamey
EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA
EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA GAMBIA GAMBIA
BURKINA FASO
BURKINA FASONIGERIA NIGERIAN’Djamena
O C OE C
A EN A N
Caracas Caracas GUINEA BISSAU
GUINEA BISSAU
GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN
GHANA GHANA Abuja Abuja
Conakry Conakry TOGO TOGO
COSTA RICA
COSTA RICA Freetown Freetown COTE COTE
Georgetown
Georgetown
LagosLagos
D'IVOIRE D'IVOIREPorto Novo Porto Novo CENTRAL C
A
SIERRA LEONE
SIERRA LEONE
Abidjan
Abidjan
PANAMA PANAMA VENEZUELA
VENEZUELA ParamariboParamaribo
Bogota BogotaGUYANA GUYANA REPUB
Accra Accra Yaounde Yaounde
Lome Lome
FRENCH GUIANA
FRENCH GUIANA CAMEROON CAMEROON
SURINAMESURINAME LIBERIA LIBERIA Malabo Malabo Bang
COLOMBIACOLOMBIA EQUATORIALEQUATORIAL
GUINEA GUINEA
SAO TOME & SAO
PRINCIPE
TOME & PRINCIPE REPUBLIC OFRE
Quito
ECUADORECUADOR Quito Libreville Libreville
CONGO CO
Sao Tome Sao Tome
GABON GABON Dem
Manaus Manaus Belem Belem CON
Fortaleza Fortaleza BrazzavilleBrazzav
Talara Talara
PERU PERU Sao Goncalo
Sao Goncalo Kinshasa

Trujillo Trujillo Porto Velho Porto Velho

Cachimbo Cachimbo
Recife Recife O C OE C
A EN A N Luanda
Luanda
BRAZIL BRAZIL Barreiras Barreiras
Lima Lima Huambo
BOLIVIA BOLIVIA

Middle
Middle
EastEast
Salvador Salvador
Cuiaba Brasilia
Cuiaba Brasilia ANGOLA A
La Paz La Paz
Goiania Goiania
Sucre Sucre NAMIBIA NAM
Belo Horizonte
Belo Horizonte BO
Varna Varna Sochi Sochi OrdzhonikidzeOrdzhonikidze
Aqtau Aqtau
Burgas Burgas Nukus Nukus
Poti Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi Windhoek W
Zonguldak Zonguldak Campinas Campinas
Rio De Janeiro
Rio De Janeiro
Istanbul Istanbul PARAGUAY PARAGUAY Walvis BayWalvis Bay
São Paulo
São Paulo
Bursa Ankara
Bursa Ankara Yerevan Yerevan Antofagasta Antofagasta
Baku Baku
TURKMENISTAN
TURKMENISTAN Curitiba Curitiba
Johannes
Joh
TURKEY TURKEY Asuncion Asuncion
Izmir Izmir
Ardabil Ardabil CHILE
Ashgabat Ashgabat CHILE
TehranTehran
Tabriz Tabriz Luderitz
Luderitz
Antalya Antalya
Adana Adana Blo
Aleppo Aleppo
Nicosia Nicosia
Mosel Mosel Porto Alegre
Porto Alegre
SYRIA SYRIA
Beirut Beirut
Iraklion Iraklion Mashhad Mashhad

Damascus
Damascus
Bakhtaran Bakhtaran SOUTH

AmmanAmman Baghdad Baghdad

Herat Herat
IRAN IRAN Rosario Rosario
Jerusalem Jerusalem
Esfahan Esfahan Santiago Santiago
ARGENTINA
URUGUAYURUGUAY
ARGENTINA Cape Town
Cape Tow
Alexandria Alexandria IRAQ IRAQ Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires
Cairo Cairo
Port Said Port Said
JORDAN JORDAN Basra Basra Kerman Kerman Montevideo
Montevideo
KuwaitKuwait
Suez Suez Concepcion Concepcion
Zahedan Zahedan
Shiraz Shiraz
Bam Bam
Beni Beni
Neuquen Neuquen

Dammam Dammam Bandar AbbasBandar AbbasValdivia

El-Minya SuefEl-Minya Suef
Valdivia

Bahrain Bahrain
EGYPT EGYPT
Al Medinah
Al Medinah
Aswan Aswan
RiyadhRiyadhDoha Doha
Muscat Muscat
Jeddah Jeddah
Mecca Mecca
Al Khaluf Al Khaluf Comodoro Rivadavia
Comodoro Rivadavia

Port Sudan Port Sudan

SAUDI ARABIA
SAUDI ARABIA
OMAN OMAN
Atbara Atbara

Sana’aSana’a
SUDAN SUDAN
Al Ghaydan Al Ghaydan
Salalah Salalah
Khartoum Khartoum
Asmara Asmara YEMEN YEMEN
Al Mukalla Al Mukalla Port Stanley
Port Stanley
Al Fashir Al Fashir Mekele Mekele Taizz Taizz
Aseb Aseb
Djibouti Djibouti
 A R AC RT C
I CT I C O C OE C
A EN A N

From
From
thethe
Flight
Flight
Deck
Deck
Westbound
Depending on the time of departure for some Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek

of our longer Westbound flights we may be Khatanga Khatanga

‘chasing’ a setting sun. This can create the Volochanka Volochanka

Alta Alta feeling of a flight lasting for longer than it Dudinka Norilsk
Dudinka Norilsk
Antipayuta Antipayuta Belaja Gora Belaja Gora

Murmansk Murmansk actually does because the sun never really sets.
una Kiruna
It just hangs in the Western sky. From the flight
Vorkuta Vorkuta
Igarka Igarka
Batagay Batagay

N SWEDEN
a Lulea
deck the sky takes on an incredible rich aqua
Skelleftea
marine hue that is hard to describe. Sangar Sangar
Archangelsk Archangelsk R U S S RI A
U S S I A
FINLAND
stersund FINLAND
Vaasa Vaasa Mirnyj Mirnyj

Captain Robert Scaddan

Jakutsk Jakutsk
Syktyvkar Syktyvkar
Nizhnevartovsk
Nizhnevartovsk
Helsinki Helsinki
Boeing 777 Magadan Magadan
kholm
allinn Tallinn St. Petersburg Vologda
St. Petersburg Vologda
Kirov Kirov
Flying with Emirates for 6 years and 7 months
ESTONIA ESTONIA
Novgorod Novgorod Perm Perm Bodaybo Bodaybo
Riga Riga
Jaroslavl Jaroslavl SverdlovskSverdlovsk
LATVIARostov RostovGorkiy GorkiyIzevsk
Moscow
Moscow
LATVIA Izevsk Krasnojarsk Bratsk
Krasnojarsk Bratsk
penhagen
LITHUANIA LITHUANIA
Kazan Kazan Chelyabinsk
Chelyabinsk
Omsk Omsk
Vilnius Vilnius Ufa Ufa
Minsk
nsk Gdansk Minsk Novosibirsk
Novosibirsk
POLAND Tol Yatti Tol Yatti
Orol Orol KuybyshevKuybyshevRudnyy Rudnyy
BELARUS BELARUS Irkutsk Irkutsk Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij
Warsaw Warsaw Voronez Voronez
Saratov Saratov Atbassar Atbassar
Ulan Ude Ulan Ude
Kiev Kiev
kow Lviv
Krakow Lviv
Aktyubinsk Aktyubinsk
UKRAINE UKRAINE VolgogradVolgograd Qaraghandy
Qaraghandy Khabarovsk Khabarovsk
KAZAKHSTAN
KAZAKHSTAN Hovd Hovd Ulaanbaatar
Ulaanbaatar
TRIA
MOLDOVAMOLDOVA Qiqihar Qiqihar Juzno Sachalinsk
Juzno Sachalinsk
Frunze Frunze Aralsk Aralsk Balqash Balqash MONGOLIA
Altay MONGOLIA
Vienna Altay
ROMANIA ROMANIA Karamay Karamay Harbin JixiHarbin Jixi
ice
BucharestBucharest
KrasnodarKrasnodar Urumqi Urumqi Changchun
Changchun
Jilin Jilin
A SERBIA
ConstantaConstanta Alma Ata Alma Ata Dalandzadagad
Dalandzadagad
Sapporo Sapporo
O BULGARIA BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO UZBEKISTAN UZBEKISTAN Bishkek Bishkek Fuxin Fuxin
Korla Korla
Istanbul
Istanbul
GEORGIA GEORGIA Hami Hami
MACEDONIA MACEDONIA KYRGYZSTANKYRGYZSTAN Benxi Benxi
Baotou Baotou
BeijingBeijing
AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN NORTH KOREA
NORTH KOREA
NIA
ples ALBANIA ARMENIA ARMENIA Tashkent Tashkent
Kashi Kashi
C H I N A
C H I Yumen
N A Yumen
GREECE GREECE Ankara Ankara TURKMENISTAN
TURKMENISTAN
PyongyangPyongyang
IzmirTURKEY TURKEY
nsAthens
Izmir TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN Qiemo Qiemo Yinchuan Yinchuan
Seoul Seoul
Ashgabat Ashgabat Dalian Dalian
Adana Adana Hotan Hotan
Xining XiningTaiyuan Taiyuan Sendai Sendai
Tokyo Tokyo
Golmud Golmud
Qingdao Qingdao SOUTH KOREA
Malta Nicosia Peshawar
Peshawar
SOUTH KOREA
Larnaca Larnaca
IRAQ IRAQTehran Tehran Lanzhou LanzhouKaifeng Kaifeng
Kabul KabulIslamabad OsakaOsaka
Nicosia

Islamabad
Bakhtaran Bakhtaran
LEBANONLEBANON
SYRIA SYRIA Xian Xian
Baghdad Esfahan
Baghdad Esfahan JAPAN JAPAN
AFGHANISTAN
AFGHANISTAN
Mianyang Mianyang
Shanghai
Shanghai
Hefei Hefei
JORDAN JORDAN
Basra Basra
IRAN IRAN
Multan Multan
LahoreLahore Chengdu Chengdu
Huangshi Huangshi
Delhi Delhi
Cairo Cairo Shiraz Shiraz Zigong Yueyang Yueyang
Zigong
KUWAIT KUWAIT Wenzhou Wenzhou
abhah PAKISTANPAKISTAN Dukou Dukou
EGYPT EGYPT Jaipur Jaipur
Agra Agra Fuzhou Fuzhou
Guiyang Guiyang
Karachi Karachi Taipei Taipei
LIBYA Riyadh Riyadh Allahabad Allahabad
Varanasi Varanasi Xiamen Xiamen

Ahmedabad DhakaDhaka
Ahmedabad Guangzhou Guangzhou
awf Al Jawf Aswan Aswan Muscat Muscat Shantou Shantou
TAIWAN TAIWAN

SAUDI ARABIA
Mecca
SAUDI ARABIA
Mecca
Surat Nagpur
Surat Kolkata
Nagpur Kolkata MYANMAR MYANMAR Hong Kong
Hong Kong
LAOS Hanoi
LAOS Hanoi
Mumbai Mumbai
BANGLADESH
BANGLADESH

CHAD
Khartoum Khartoum
ERITREA ERITREA YEMEN YEMEN
OMAN OMAN
Hyderabad
Rangoon Rangoon

Hyderabad THAILAND THAILAND

Vientiane Vientiane
VIETNAM VIETNAM
P A PC AI FCIICF I C
ManilaManila
Asmara Asmara
Bangkok Bangkok
Sanaa Sanaa INDIA INDIA
SUDAN SUDAN
Bengaluru
Bengaluru Chennai Chennai PHILIPPINES
PHILIPPINES
KozhikodeKozhikode
aN’Djamena DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Phnom Penh Phnom Penh

Waw Waw
SOMALIA SOMALIA
Addis Addis
AbabaAbaba Kochi Kochi
Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh City
O C OE C
A EN A N
Thiruvananthapuram
Thiruvananthapuram
SRI LANKASRI LANKA
Colombo Colombo
CENTRAL
AFRICAN AFRICAN ETHIOPIA ETHIOPIA
BLICREPUBLIC BRUNEI BRUNEI Davao Davao
gui Bangui
e UGANDA UGANDA
KENYA KENYA
Malé Malé Kuala Kuala
Lumpur Lumpur MALAYSIAMALAYSIA

Entebbe
EPUBLIC OF
ONGO Entebbe Eldoret Eldoret
MogadishuMogadishu
Singapore Singapore
m. of Dem. of
Nairobi
Nairobi
RWANDA RWANDA
NGO CONGO
ville BURUNDI BURUNDI I N ID NO DN OE NS EI S
A I A

Jakarta
Jakarta
a Kinshasa PAPUA PAPUA
Seychelles
Seychelles
Kananga TANZANIATANZANIA
Kananga
Dar esDar
Salaam
es Salaam
NEW GUINEA
NEW GUINEA

Likasi Likasi Port Moresby

Port Moresby
MALAWI MALAWI COMOROSCOMOROS
Huambo
ZAMBIA ZAMBIA Lilongwe
Lilongwe
ANGOLA
Lusaka Lusaka Cairns Cairns

MIBIA Harare
OTSWANA BOTSWANA
ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE
Harare
Antananarivo
Antananarivo
Mauritius
Mauritius IND
I NI AD NI A N Broome Broome
Tennant CreekTennant Creek

Port Hedland Port Hedland

O C OE C A EN A N
Mackay Mackay
Windhoek MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR Learmonth Learmonth
MOZAMBIQUE
MOZAMBIQUE AUSTRALIA Alice Springs
AUSTRALIA Alice Springs NEW CALEDONIA
NEW CALEDONIA
Gaborone Gaborone

hannesburg
sburg
Pretoria Pretoria Carnarvon Carnarvon
Maputo Maputo Tolanaro Tolanaro

oemfontein
Mbabane Mbabane
Bloemfontein
SWAZILANDSWAZILAND
Brisbane
Brisbane
Durban
Durban
Geraldton Geraldton Bourke Bourke
Kalgoorlie Cook
Kalgoorlie Cook
H AFRICA
SOUTH AFRICA
Perth Perth
LESOTHO LESOTHO
Umtata Umtata
wn Port Elizabeth Port Elizabeth Adelaide Adelaide Sydney
Sydney
Canberra Canberra
Auckland
Auckland
Melbourne
Melbourne

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