H A N D PA P E R M A K I N G

volume 24, number 2 winter 2009

Letter from the Editor 2

Paper Fancies in Unexpected Collections at
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Mindell Dubansky 3
Practically Invulnerable: Chinese Paper Armor
Peter Dekker 10
Dutch Gilt Papers as Substitutes for Leather
Sidney E. Berger 14
Kinkarakami: The Story of Ueda Takashi
Moriki Kayoko 17
Pulp Fashion: Eighteenth- and Nineteenth-Century Paper Clothing
Jennifer Verde King 21
Paper Textiles: A Substitute Material in Wartime Europe
Christina Leitner 25
Double or Nothing: Mimicry in Contemporary Art Using Handmade Paper
Tara L. Ruth 28
Paper Sample: Hungerfords Moon
Andrea Peterson 33
Like Shields, Like Shells: The Graphite Reliefs of Roberto Mannino
Buzz Spector 34
Paper Sample: Polished Pewter
Roberto Mannino 37
ON a Wider View: Three Papermaking Traditions in Asia
Dorothy Field 38
ON Annarita Librari: Engraved in Wax and in Time, The Chiaroscuro
Watermarks of Annarita Librari
Lynn Sures 42
Paper Sample: Chiaroscuro Watermark by Annarita Librari 46
Authors 47
Advertisers and Contributors 48
front cover: Lacquered papier-mch shaffron; a ceremonial horses head defense, in the form of a dragon head. Japanese,
nineteenth century. Papier-mch, wood, lacquer, pigments, gold, hair, 21 x 13 inches (53.3 x 33 cm). Bequest of George C. Stone,
1935. 36.25.499. Collection The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Image The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
back cover: An eighteenth-century Dutch gilt paper that is stamped with metallic foil over a patterned paste paper. Collection
of Sidney Berger. Courtesy of Sidney Berger.

winter 2009 1
 Practically Invulnerable: Being credited with the invention of a papermaking process as early as the second
century CE, and with having even earlier references to paper-like materials, China
Chinese Paper Armor is commonly believed to be the first nation to put paper to widespread use. Apart
from the obvious use of paper for letters, books, and paintings it was also made
Peter Dekker into kites, shoe soles, blankets, fans, umbrellas, and even mattresses. The Chinese
are also believed to be the inventors of wallpaper and paper money. But perhaps
one of the most peculiar uses the Chinese found for paper was that of making
armor for its military.
Two Chinese composite bow handles. Top: a high-quality Through the ages the Chinese armies have used all kinds of materials to pro-
Manchu bow of the early nineteenth century with ray-skin tect the bodies of their men. It would be well beyond the scope of this article to
on either side of the handle, 105 cm unstrung, approximately describe them all but allow me to begin with a short overview of some types of
160 cm strung. Bottom: a mid-nineteenth-century Chinese armor used commonly in China from the Late Bronze Age to the dawn of the
pellet bow with paper on either side of the handle, painted twentieth century.
and worked to mimic the more expensive ray-skin, 98 cm Among the earliest types of armor known are those dating from the Shang
unstrung, approximately 115 cm strung. All artifacts dynasty of the sixteenth century BCE up to 1024 BCE, which were made from
collection of the author. All photos by and courtesy pieces of turtle shell laced together. Around the time of the Han dynasty of the
of the author. third millenium BCE armors consisted mostly of bronze plates or sections of
cured leather that were laced together. Such leather armors endured in some
remote areas in China up to as late as the twentieth century by Chinese ethnic
minorities such as the Yi. Many of these armors bear a striking resemblance to
their much earlier predecessors.
When steelmaking picked up during the Warring States period it eventually
came to replace bronze as the main metal for armor and remained in use until
as late as the nineteenth century. Like the leather armors, the steel armors often
consisted of many small plates that were laced together. The shape of the plates
varied from simple square or rectanglar pieces to those that were shaped like fish
scales or had complex interlocking shapes such as the Ming dynastys shanwenjia,
or mountain pattern armor.
By the mid-Qing dynasty firearms were so well developed that they could
pierce nearly any armor. Instead of striving for maximum protection Qing sol-
diers preferred to remain more mobile and dressed in a multitude of layers of
cloth, felt, and/or silk. Such protection can easily be underestimated, but actual
testing has shown that it can be quite hard to get through many layers of cloth
with sword or arrow.

10 hand papermaking
 thousand suits of paper armor for the garrisons of Shanxi province.6
Shanxi was near the Jin empire where Jurchen attacks, again con-
sisting of mainly mounted archers, were eminent.
Perhaps the most detailed information on paper armor that has
surfaced from classical Chinese texts is the description provided in
the military treatise Wubeizhi, or Treatise on Military Prepared-
ness dating from the Ming dynasty (13681644). Compiled by
Mao Yuanyi and finished in 1621, the treatise states in chapter 105,
pages 1718 of the original version:

Antique arrowheads that paper armors may have been up against. From left to
right, measuring between 107 and 129 mm in length, and up to 20 mm wide:
early Iron Age armor-piercing arrowhead of triangular cross section, two Jin dynasty
Jurchen arrowheads with chisel-shaped tips, Qing dynasty Manchu standard
military arrowhead, Qing dynasty Manchu military rattan-piercing arrowhead.

References to paper armor in Chinese history are relatively

scarce but nevertheless persist over a long period of time. The A suit of paper armor and paper arm guard as they appear in the 1621 Wubeizhi,
earliest references to paper armor appear to date from the Tang or Treatise on Military Preparedness. Illustration by the author.
dynasty, which lasted from 618 to 907 BCE. During the latter part
of this dynasty a certain Shang Suiding is credited with the inven- Armour is the basic equipment of soldiers, with which they are able
tion of paper armor that was initially only used by civilians in times to endure without suffering defeat before sharp weapons. The terrain in
of peril.1 Later yet in the Tang we find an account on governor Xi the south is dangerous and low, and where foot soldiers are generally
Shang (84794) of the city of He-Dong who kept an army of one employed they cannot take heavy loads on their backs when travelling
thousand soldiers at the ready who were equipped with suits of swiftly. If the ground is wet or there is rain, iron armour easily rusts and
pleated paper armor. It is of special interest that this armor was becomes useless. Japanese pirates and local bandits frequently employ
described as being able to withstand heavy arrows.2 This city was guns and firearms, and even though armour made of rattan or of horn
close to Khitan territory and the heavy arrows referred to were may be used, the bullets can nevertheless pierce it. Moreover, it is heavy
those of Khitan mounted archers with whom the Tang was in a and cannot be worn for too long. The best choice for foot soldiers is paper
constant state of war. armour, mixed with a variety of silk and cloth. If both paper and cloth
About a century later, during the early Song dynasty (9601279 are thin, even arrows can pierce them, not to say bullets; the armour
CE) there was an attack on this very same town led by the captain should, therefore, be lined with cotton, one inch thick, fully pleated, at
of the imperial Song army Li Tao. He noted that the towns defend- knee length. It would be inconvenient to use in muddy fields if too long
ers were dressed in yellow paper armor, indicating that the use of and cannot cover the body if too short. Heavy armour can only be used
paper armor endured here even after the fall of the Tang.3 Later on ships, since there soldiers do not walk on muddy fields. But since the
in the Song dynasty there is mention of the capture of 110 suits enemy can reach the object with bullets, it could not be defended without
of paper armor from two surrendered coastal pirate vessels by a the use of heavy armour.7
commissioner of military affairs Gong Hua.4 It is interesting to note from this passage that one of the main
The use of paper armor was not restricted only to the enemies advantages of paper armor, in the eyes of distinguished naval
of the Song. Chen De-Xiu (11781235), magistrate of Chuanzhou, commander Mao Yuanyi, was that it was lighter than iron (steel)
stated in one of his memorials to the capital that the weapons in his armor and did not rust. The same treatise also describes a paper
fort were sufficient for coastal defense except that fifty sets of paper arm guard that consists of layers of paper, silk, and cloth.
armor were needed for his navy, for which he would exchange one Little is known about the exact method of construction of these
half of the one hundred sets of iron armor in his possession.5 armors but we do know that by the Qing dynasty, Korean paper
An account dating from 1040 describes that troops stationed in recognized for its toughness and durability in both China and Ja-
the cities of Jiangnan and Huainan in Anhui province, both noted panwas preferred for making armors. Korean paper thus made up
papermaking centers, were ordered to produce as much as thirty large part of the tributes from Korea to China in the Qing dynasty.8

winter 2009 11
A peacock-feather hat ornament with its box, nineteenth-century; box: 40.7 cm long, 6.2 cm diameter; plume: 36.3 cm long. Such plumes were awarded by the emperor
for special civil service or merit in battle. Box frame and inside lining of paper, covered with green cotton.

Consul Bedloe of the Amoy mission offers one of the most de-
tailed descriptions of paper armor in a rare Western eyewitness
account:
Parallel to this alternating of leather and wool in the north was that
of paper and cotton cloth in the south of China. It seems ridiculous to
call such combinations armor, and yet they make an armor superior in
many instances to steel. Thirty thicknesses of alternate calico and paper
will resist a pistol bullet or one from a rifle at a distance of a hundred
yards. A spearman who thrusts his weapon into a man clad in this kind
of garment can neither wound his enemy nor extract his weapon, and
if his enemy is an archer or is armed with a long sword or javelin, he
is likely to lose his life for his mischance. The suit of a famous Yiinnan
bandit consisted of sixty thicknesses of cotton cloth and paper, and made
him practically invulnerable. These suits are comparatively light, are
very durable, and of course, extremely cheap.9
The above description suggests that by the nineteenth century
the use of paper armor was primarily a southern custom. 10 This is
probably due to the climates, with the north having a dry desert-like
climate with extremely cold winters while the south enjoys subtrop-
ical weather. One can well imagine how hard it would be to have
to fight in alternating layers of leather and wool in temperatures
of above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Also interesting to note is that Two late nineteenth-century arrows. Top: a target arrow with Amur cherry-bark
in contrary to the Song era account where a piece of steel armor wrapping , 91 cm long, 9 mm thick. Bottom: a standard-issue military arrow with
was traded for a piece of paper armor, consul Bedloe states that black-painted paper wrapping, 104.5 cm long, 9 mm thick.
these paper armors were extremely cheap. Reasons for this may be
numerous, from the availability of paper at the time to the sheer One might ask, how can a relatively fragile material like paper
necessity of Chen De-Xiu to obtain these paper armors. Perhaps do better than steel to defend against spears, arrows, and even
the most interesting part of this account however is how it describes bullets? The answer lies in the flexible layered construction. With
the surprising effectiveness of paper armor, being even bulletproof an armor made of a single mass of material, say a plate of metal,
from certain distances, making the wearer nearly invincible. the integrity of the whole plate is compromised by a single crack,

12 hand papermaking
A late nineteenth-century hat box with officials winter hat; box: 18 cm high, Detail of damage on the hat box, exposing the paper construction of the walls.
29.5 cm diameter; hat: 21 cm diameter.

whereas with a multitude of layers any damage on one layer does many gradations in quality and finish, which may contribute to the
not affect the integrity of any of the other layers. On flexibility, the inconsistency of pricing in those few sources that we can reference
idea that the soft overcomes the hard is widely known in Chinese today. Paper armor was proven to be surprisingly effective, even in
Daoist thought and may have well contributed to the development the eyes of period observers such as consul Bedloe as well as sea-
of soft armors from early times onward. Instead of taking all of the soned imperial naval commanders such as Mao Yuanyi. The fact
energy of the impact, soft materials yield and neutralize much of that modern armorers again use very similar concepts of armor
the impact energy before they start taking damage. In tests per- construction, albeit with high-tech materials, attests for the effec-
formed with replicas of historical armor-piercing arrowheads, a tiveness of multi-layered protection that handmade paper already
fixed steel plate was easily pierced while softer targets such as a pil- provided for centuries.
low were impossible to penetrate. Although not discussed in this ___________
article, I have included illustrations of nineteenth-century Chinese notes
weapons and related items from my collection in which handmade 1. Berthold Laufer, Chinese Clay Figures, Part I: Prolegomena on the History of
paper is a component of their construction. Defensive Armor, Field Museum of Natural History Publication 177, Anthro-
It should hardly surprise the reader by now that the latest pological Series, vol. XIII, no. 2 (Chicago: Field Museum, 1914), 292.
bulletproof body armors make use of a very similar concept. To- 2. Wu Zhen, Xin Tang Shu [New Book of the Tang], eleventh and twelfth centu-
day, paper-thin layers of synthetic materials such as Goldflex or ries. Reprinted in Shang wu yin shu guan, Minguo 24 (Shanghai, 1935).
Dyneema are employed in making body armor. Although these 3. Fujian Tongzhi [General Gazetteer of Fujian], 1737 edition.
synthetic materials are far more advanced than paper, with high 4. Tsien Tsuen-hsuin, Paper and Printing, part 1 of Chemistry and Chemical
tensile strengths, resistance to abrasion, no moist absorption, and Technology, vol. 5 of Science and Civilisation in China by Joseph Needham
increased atomic weight, they still make use of the same principle (Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press, 1985), 114.
of having many flexible layers to deal with the kinetic energy of the 5. Ibid.
impact. They do so very effectively without being excessively heavy, 6. Laufer, 292.
hot, or hindering the wearers movements, much like paper armor. 7. Translation by Tsein Tsuen-hsuin, in Paper and Printing, 115.
Paper armor endured in both civilian and military circles from 8. W. W. Rockhill, Chinas Intercourse with Korea, (London: Luzac & Co., 1905), 25.
the late Tang dynasty all the way to the late Qing dynasty, providing 9. Laufer, 29394, note 2.
protection against the developments in weapons for over a thou-
sand years. It even outlived steel armor that was made obsolete by
developments in firearms at around the mid-eighteenth century,
and may well have been the first type of bulletproof armor ever
devised. Some sources suggest that the price was similar to steel
armor, while other state it was very cheap. No doubt there were

winter 2009 13