Borneo: Field Guides Tour Report
Borneo: Field Guides Tour Report
Borneo: Field Guides Tour Report
Borneo
Sunrise over craggy Mt. Kinabalu, as seen from our doorsteps at the Hill Lodge inside Kinabalu Park. (Photo by tour participant Fred
Dalbey)
It was another fabulous tour to Borneo! As always, it was different from all previous tours in many of the specifics, from the
weather (windy and rainy in the highlands this trip; surprisingly dry in the lowlands) to some of the birds and other critters
observed. But there is great overlap among many of the spectacular basics from one tour to the next. And we had another
wonderful sampling of the best of Borneo.
In our efforts to overcome jetlag, we all arrived early and managed to get in a little extra birding pre-tour. Most folks went to
Manukan Island for a morning, and we all went to the KK Wetland the day before the tour started, seeing a handful of
species we wouldn't see on our official tour route. I've included those species in the list below since most folks in the group
were experiencing Asian birding for the first time. Our most exciting encounter was with a pair of White-breasted
Waterhens duetting as we watched at close range.
We began officially in the Crocker Range, where we saw a number of highland endemics, from the usually very tough
Whitehead's Spiderhunter to Mountain and Bornean barbets, Bornean Bulbul, Bornean Leafbird, and endearing flocks of
Chestnut-crested Yuhinas, not to mention the non-endemic but dramatic Long-tailed Broadbill. It was a nice start despite the
rain that set in early.
At Gungung Kinabalu, Borneo's center of endemism, we had wonderful luck with such specialties as the gorgeous
Whitehead's Trogon (a very photogenic pair on our second morning!), the tough Cave Swiftlet, the shy White-crowned
(Bornean) Forktail, and such skulkers as Bornean Stubtail (singing away!) and Mountain Wren-Babbler (at our feet!).
Whitehead's Broadbill was quite uncooperative, as were the partridges. Nor did we encounter the little-known Everett's
Thrush, despite having spent time in the area of the second-known nest for the species, the juvenile from which had fledged
the day before! But most of the to-be-expected endemics fell into place, and we had a wonderful Rafflesia experience (at
Poring) and saw four species of pitcher plants, including (for the Mesilau group) the world's largest. Along Bukit Ular one
Our introduction to tropical lowland forest was at Sepilok, where we spent a morning on the RDC canopy walkway,
enjoying a range of representative Asian species, from our first hornbills and Black-naped Monarchs to Raffles's Malkohas,
Red-bearded Bee-eater, and Giant Squirrels. Then one of the highlights of the trip came with something uniquely Bornean: a
party of three bizarrely wonderful Bornean Bristleheads, representing a monotypic family endemic to Borneo, which
approached from a distance right into the nearest trees at eye level. What a show!
That afternoon we would continue to Gomantong Cave, where we scoped out each of the echo-locating swiftlets on their
nests and marveled at the "creepy" scutigerid centipedes, in clusters on the walls of the cave. Back outside we watched an
Orangutan mother with baby, several groups of the endemic Red Leaf Monkey sharing treetop vistas with Bushy-crested
Hornbills while discrete clouds of Wrinkle-lipped Bats began drifting overhead, attracting crepuscular Bat Hawks that
would swoop through the swarms and emerge with their dinner. It was a lovely evening, and we reached Sukau under clear
skies.
We had mostly clear, warm weather in the Kinabatangan this visit. We birded by boat, morning, late afternoon, and one
evening, and we worked in some time on the boardwalk immediately behind our lodge. Highlights included, by day on the
rivers: good looks at multiple Storm's & Lesser Adjutant storks, nesting White-fronted Falconets, striking Wrinkled,
Rhinoceros, and White-crowned hornbills, a 12-foot Estuarine Crocodile, afternoon gatherings of long-nosed, big-bellied
Proboscis Monkeys, and watching a herd of 15-20 Bornean Pygmy Elephants grazing on "elephant grass" on the banks of
the Kinabatangan. Right at our lodge we enjoyed great scope views of a singing Striped Wren-Babbler, a noisy and
animated flock of Dusky Broadbills, and giant Tokay Geckos, with big green eyes, that hunted insects by night above the
walkway. By starlight on our river cruise, we saw sleeping Blue-eared and Stork-billed kingfishers, Black-and-red
Broadbills huddled shoulder to shoulder (see Dave's cover photo), a foraging pair of Buffy Fish-Owls, and a Reticulated
Python.
After a fine morning of birding along the Gomantong entrance road--with Black-headed Pitta, dynamite trogons, and a
terrific array of babblers--we settled into Borneo Rainforest Lodge, our extraordinary base for five days of birding in the
heart of the tallest tropical rainforest on Earth (see Sherry's cover photo).
Among our diverse favorites at BRL, in roughly phylogenetic order, were: that surprise Gould's Frogmouth that we
spotlighted, taped, and photographed as it sang from a vine right beside our truck!; the very confiding Whiskered Treeswifts
and Blue-throated Bee-eaters that so often accompanied our meals or lined up along the cables of the lower canopy
walkway; the Rufous-backed Kingfisher that we found by night as a puff of blue, black, pink, and orange on its roost (two
different nights!) and then watched hunting just off the dining area; the tiny Gray-and-buff Woodpeckers with the tall,
curved crests and the even smaller Rufous Piculets that came so close in the canopy walkway; the family of dramatically
patterned Black-and-yellow Broadbills we watched eye-to-eye, with their soft-pink underparts and bright blue bills; those
spiffy Blue-headed Pittas and the wonderfully cooperative Hooded Pitta that responded so well to playback; that white-
morph male Asian Paradise-Flycatcher with its long tail plumes that circled around us repeatedly for fabulous views; and the
endemic, brown race of the shy Crested Jay whose machine-gun voice disclosed its location as it circled us along the road.
And I can't fail to mention just a few of the outstanding "other critters" that afforded us such excitement, especially the tiny
Plain Pygmy Squirrels that dashed about on the banisters and tree trunks; that fabulous Colugo we spotlighted halfway up a
tall tree trunk; and, maybe best of all, that big Bornean Horned Frog, the epitome of dead-leaf mimicry, that was new for all
but Hamit.
It was fun reliving the trip while annotating the list that follows. Hopefully, it'll serve to bring back memories for you guys
of some of your additional favorites.
It is a bit sobering to realize how many of the species we saw are considered either Endangered, Vulnerable, or Near
Threatened by Birdlife International and the IUCN Red List. We'll hope that our visit will contribute a bit toward their
longterm preservation.
In the annotations below, I've used RDC for Rainforest Discovery Centre and BRL for Borneo Rainforest Lodge. By a
Sundaland specialty, we mean a species whose range is generally restricted to the Thai-Malay peninsula, Borneo, Sumatra,
and Java all of which were connected during the last ice age. The eastern boundary of Sundaland is Wallace's Line, a deep-
water trench between Borneo and Sulawesi and between Bali and Lombok, east of which is Wallacea/Australasia. Many of
Taxonomy follows the Clements checklist with online updates by Cornell. To access the Clements checklist, go to
http://www.birds.cornell.edu/clementschecklist, where you can download it and check for additional updates.
We thank Karen (our fgi tour manager), Borneo Eco Tours (our ground operator), our great local guides (Hazwan,
Wangkong, and Paul), our captains (especially Danny & Jolius), our boatmen, and the staffs of our wonderful lodgings
throughout the tour. Special thanks to everyone for sharing such a bounty of terrific photos, some of which will be used in
the text of the triplist. Credits for cover photos go to Fred Dalbey (Atlas moth), Dave Harvey (White-breasted Waterhens,
Stork-billed Kingfisher, Black-and-yellow Broadbill), Sherry Nelson (vista from the BRL canopy walkway, group photo),
and Jan Nordenberg (Orangutan, Proboscis Monkey). The Whitehead's Trogon, Rajah Pitcher Plant, and Bornean Pygmy
Elephant were mine.
Thanks, too, to each of you guys for coming and for making the trip a success. We had a grand time!
For more information about this tour, including future departures, visit our website at www.fieldguides.com. And to see this
same triplist online, go to http://www.fieldguides.com/triplists/bor12bLIST.pdf and you will find the list in its entirety.
BIRDS
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WANDERING WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna arcuata) A group of ca. 9 ducks, including one duckling (evidence
of breeding), were seen nicely on a lake between Sandakan and Gomantong. Some of you had seen this species in
Australia. [N]
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
RED-BREASTED PARTRIDGE (Arborophila hyperythra) Heard (repeatedly) by all; we were very close to a pair along
the upper Bukit Ular trail at Kinabalu, but I'm afraid it was seen only by RAR. [E*]
CHESTNUT-NECKLACED PARTRIDGE (Arborophila charltonii) Seen on our first morning in the Kinabatangan,
along the banks of the Menanggul, where one bird was lured into view with playback.
CRIMSON-HEADED PARTRIDGE (Haematortyx sanguiniceps) Heard often, but usually quite distantly. [E*]
CRESTED FIREBACK (Lophura ignita nobilis) We had missed them the afternoon of our arrival to BRL, and we were
told they had not been around the lodge recently. Fortunately, we encountered a pair as we walked out the entrance road
our first morning at BRL. They flushed into dense roadside shrubbery, but responded well to playback of their alarm
notes, creeping into view for all. Note the endemic Bornean race nobilis, with the central tail feathers cinnamon-buff
(instead of white).
Ciconiidae (Storks)
STORM'S STORK (Ciconia stormi) Classified as Endangered (with a population of fewer than 500 birds) by the IUCN,
this small stork is one of the real specialties of the Kinabatangan, which is considered its world stronghold. We were
quite lucky this trip, seeing 4 to 5 birds per day, both perched and flying! That's in an area where a breeding population of
only 40+ birds was censused between 1999 and 2002. With increased fragmentation of their habitat, the species has
declined throughout its limited range, mostly in Borneo and Sumatra.
LESSER ADJUTANT (Leptoptilos javanicus) We saw 3 birds circling on a thermal, high above the Menanggul, on our
first morning at Sukau, and then at least 6 flying over the Kinabatangan the following day, some of them offering fairly
close views. This species is more common well downriver, close to the coast.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ORIENTAL DARTER (Anhinga melanogaster) Fairly common in the Kinabatangan.
Coraciidae (Rollers)
DOLLARBIRD (Eurystomus orientalis) In the Kinabatangan and at Gomantong.
Bucerotidae (Hornbills)
ORIENTAL PIED-HORNBILL (Anthracoceros albirostris) Our first were from the RDC walkway; then it was the
commonest hornbill along the rivers in the Kinabatangan, but it was absent from the primary forest at BRL.
BLACK HORNBILL (Anthracoceros malayanus) Considered Near Threatened, this noisy Sundaland specialty was our
first hornbill--at Sepilok. We then saw them daily in the Kinabatangan, and also in small numbers at BRL. We saw male
MAMMALS
COLUGO (Cynocephalus variegatus) What a fabulous critter! This exotic nocturnal mammal sails from tree to tree on
"wings" of skin stretched among its limbs. We spotted one high on a tree trunk on our very first night drive at BRL.
Belonging to the order Dermoptera, the Colugo has recently been shown to be our closest living relative outside of
primates (see the following link for a short article on this and for a great photo of a Colugo with a baby sailing from one
tree to another: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-491237/Our-closest-living-relative--rainforest-bat.html).
WRINKLE-LIPPED BAT (Tadarida [Chaerephon] plicata) The majority of the bats in the Gomantong Caves (where we
had close looks) are of this species, which clearly provides ample prey for the Bat Hawks that gather each evening to
feast. On our clear, breezy afternoon this trip, the bats were drifting off in separate little clouds, but in smaller numbers
than usual. It was great fun to watch the Bat Hawks dive through the clouds!
MOUNTAIN TREESHREW (Tupaia montana) This is the commonest montane treeshrew, seen by some at Kinabalu.
These treeshrews provide the nitrogen needed by the world's largest pitcher plant. (See under Pitcher Plants in the
Conclusions.) The Mesilau group also saw a tiny shrew-like critter that remains unidentified; it was moving under the
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
One of the joys of birding in Borneo is all the delightful distractions that come in varied and exotic forms from other parts of
the animal kingdom. Our triplist database contains only birds and mammals, but we had a long list of additional write-ins,
including a few plant species of exceptional interest. To mention a very few, emphasizing those that we were able to
identify:
--Rafflesia keithii - We traveled to Poring to see the flower of this fascinating Bornean endemic, the largest of its genus in
Borneo and the second largest in the world. An endoparasite, it has no stems, leaves, or true roots, deriving its energy
entirely from its host, a woody vine in the genus Tetrastigma (Vitacease). We discussed how scientists and the Kinabalu
Park staff work with locals to enhance the environmental conditions favorable to this rare and impressive flower, namely by
making its host vine available for distribution on nearby private lands. It has worked well, increasing the probability of our
encountering an ephemeral Rafflesia flower somewhere near Poring on our tour. This June we saw several buds and a
fabulous blossom on its third day open. A recent study on Rafflesia cantleyi determined that the parasite was not only
absorbing nutrients from its host, but was actually stealing genes! For details on this horizontal gene transfer, a rare
--Carnivorous Nepenthes pitcher plants - The pitcher plant center of Borneo (and the world!) is upper-elevation Mt.
Kinabalu. As an alternative to climbing the Summit Trail in search of Friendly Bush-Warbler, some of us drove to Mesilau,
at 2000m, where we took a steep (but short) trail to see 4 different species of pitcher plants: N. burbigeae (a colorful one!),
N. fusca (a small one), N. tentaculata (the same one that was seen by the group birding the Summit Trail); and N. rajah (see
my cover photo), a.k.a. Rajah Brooke's Pitcher Plant, the largest pitcher plant in the world, its pitcher holding up to 3.5 liters
of liquid! Recent research has revealed the "evolutionary incentive" for high-elevation pitcher plants to have evolved bigger
and bigger pitchers: It's to serve as a toilet for treeshrews! Treeshrews, which are common at these high elevations (where
insects become increasingly scarce) are attracted by the sweet secretion on the underside of the pitcher's lid. To reach it, they
climb onto the pitcher's sturdy rim, which fits them perfectly, and sip away, meanwhile defecating into the pitcher to mark
their feeding territory--thus supplying all the nitrogen critical to these normally carnivorous plants. See the following link
for a full explanation, with photos: http://news.bbc.co.uk/earth/hi/earth_news/newsid_8552000/8552157.stm
--the Mangrove Skinks (Emoia atrocostata) that were skittering in the mud among the mangrove roots at the KK Wetland.
This species is one of the few lizards besides geckos to colonize many Pacific islands, perhaps because they tolerate
saltwater.
--Apparently the most common skink we encountered--the bronzy-brown one in the leaf litter throughout the lowlands--was
what is often called "common sun skink" (Eutropis multifasciatus), formerly in the genus Mabuya. It occurs throughout the
region.
--that 12' Estuarine Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) along the Kinabatangan that so blended with the mud around it that our
cameras couldn't focus! The largest of all living reptiles, old males can reach an amazing 20' in length! Given its size, ours
was probably a sexually mature male of 16 years or more. We also saw a small juvenile along the Menanggul.
--big Water Monitors (Varanus salvator), from the KK Wetlands to the Kinabatangan tributaries to the road into BRL
--the brilliant Green Crested Lizards (Bronchocela cristatella) that we saw several times, from our first day afield, to the
Sukau boardwalk, to BRL, which can change their color to a darker gray or brown, especially when threatened
--small "flying lizards" of the genus Draco - They were seen at RDC and along the Menanggul.
--the giant Tokay Geckos (Gekko gecko) that were usually under the covered section of the boardwalk between the rooms
and the dining area at Sukau Rainforest Lodge; these were the ones we heard throughout the lowlands, uttering the loud
"gec-ko" or "to-kay" that slows down; it was for this species that the genus was named.
--the many (and various!) smaller geckos, from those positioned near each lamp along the BRL boardwalk to our chalets,
one of which seems to have been some kind of "parachute gecko" with broad extensions on its toes and sides, to the one we
found on our first night walk toward the staff quarters, which seems to have been some species of bent-toed gecko (though
hard to pin down to species)
--that Mangrove (or Yellow-banded) Cat Snake (Boiga dendrophila), the shiny black snake with the bright-yellow bands that
was so tightly coiled in a tree overhanging the Tenangang that we could hardly see it! Their diet consists of birds and their
eggs, amphibians, lizards, other snakes, mouse deer (!), and treeshrews.
--the big, colorful Reticulated Python (Python reticulatus) that seemed frozen on the bank of the Kinabatangan one night. I
guess I shouldn't really say "big," as they normally reach 10-20'!
--the Four-lined Tree Frog (Polypedates leucomystax)(a.k.a. White-lipped Tree Frog or Bush Frog) we spotlighted along the
Sukau boardwalk and on a BRL night drive. Ours were fairly small ones, but the species can be over 5" long and is the
world's largest treefrog. It's widespread, from s. Asia through Sundaland to Papua New Guinea and n. Australia.
--those richly yellow File-eared Tree Frogs (Polypedates otilophus) seen on our BRL night drive after the rain. They occur
only in Sumatra and Borneo, ordinarily well above the ground. But they congregate over water to breed and lay their
--the numerous Harlequin Flying Tree Frogs (Rhacophorus pardalis) seen at BRL after the rain, from both the night-drive
truck and at the frog pond. This little frog spends most of its time in the canopy, only coming to the ground to breed in
suitable streams and pools. It too is a foam nest builder, but it's one of the "flying" frogs, with extensive membranes between
its toes to help it glide from branch to branch--and down to pools on the forest floor. It occurs in peninsular Malaysia,
Sumatra, Borneo, and the Philippines. The more colorful individual with the irregular white spots on its back seems to be of
this rather variable species too, perhaps a younger one?
--But that Bornean Horned Frog (Megophrys nasuta) that Hamit found on our first night walk along the BRL Nature Trail
topped them all! The epitome of dead-leaf mimicry, this species preys on other inhabitants of the rainforest leaf litter:
spiders, small rodents (!), lizards, and other frogs. It's not restricted to Borneo, but found throughout Sundaland.
Among the many invertebrates were some that simply must be remembered:
--the common Wood Nymph (Idea stolli) or Tree Nymph butterflies that floated tissue paper-like throughout the lowlands
--the lovely black and chartreuse Rajah Brooke's Birdwings (Trogonoptera brookiana)
--the many other superb butterflies [see the following website to help ID some of your photos:
http://www.learnaboutbutterflies.com/Malaysia%20thumbs.htm]
--the impressive big moths attracted to lights throughout, including the big Lyssa moth (Lyssa menoetcus), the 8" Atlas
moth (Attacus atlas) at Fred & Sonia's bungalow at Kinabalu (see Fred's cover photo), and the other big Atlas we
photographed at BRL. These are supposedly the same species, but the one at Kinabalu had far more snake's-head-like
wingtips than the lowland one. It's a saturnid that's found in the tropics and subtropics of SE Asia and across the Malay
archipelago. In Hong Kong the Cantonese name for it translates to "snake's head moth." It's considered the largest moth in
the world based on total wing surface area.
--the fancy white Lantern Bug (Pyrops sultana, family Fulgoridae), with the deep red-and-orange snout-like head, that Ron
& Deby photographed at BRL. Contrary to the belief of Linneaus, who described several species, this inflated head process
does not light up at night. These are sap suckers, which excrete excess sugars as droplets that certain ants have become
specialized to collect!
--Which reminds me of the gigantic ants on the forest floor; and the long stream of termites (not ants!) that we watched
going up the big walkway-supporting canopy emergent in the morning (and down in the afternoon).
--that wonderful black-and-orange Trilobite Beetle (Duliticola paradoxa; at Kinabalu) that retains its larval form even when
sexually mature; that black-and-orange longhorn beetle (Cerambycidae; along Bukit Ular trail), and all the big black
rhinoceros beetles, some with impressive horns; I haven't ID'd the many we photographed.
--that gigantic katydid we found dead at BRL, as well as the various living katydids of multiple species; all the big cicadas,
walking sticks, praying mantids, and other amazing insects in the lowland rainforest
--the hordes of cockroaches and scutigerid centipedes that decorated the walls of Gomantong Cave (and the one on the tree
buttress at BRL!)
--those long, dark millipedes with bright orange legs; and short, fat Pill Millipedes (Glomeris connexa) that curl into a ball
like a pillbug, both fairly common at BRL
--some wonderful spiders, including some big orb weavers, lots of "wolf spiders" with eyeshine, and that big arboreal
tarantula (Theraphosidae) that Paul pointed out on our final night drive at BRL
--And did I mention the leeches at BRL? They weren't especially bad this year, and I saw only the more common Brown
Leeches (Haemadipsa zeylanica) and none of the endemic Tiger Leeches (haemadipsa picta). Still, they informed our
Like Kinabalu itself, that's just the "tip of the batholith." There are LOTS of fabulous critters out there, and we encountered
only a small (but wonderful!) sampling of them.
Totals for the tour: 281 bird taxa and 27 mammal taxa