01. House & Garden - January (2016) (С)

THE BE ST IN INTERNATIONAL DE SIGN AND DE C ORATION
January
2016
PLUS Winter
THE POTTERIES
OF STOKE-ON-TRENT
HOW TO DECORATE
Living
From a BEACH
ACCORDING TO ALIDAD HOUSE IN MUSTIQUE
CAPABILITY BROWNS to Ben Pentreaths
ENDURING COLOURFUL
LEGACY BLOOMSBURY FLAT
FINISHING TOUCHES
TEXTURED WELL-DRESSED DECORATIVE BESPOKE
TEXTILES WINDOWS WALL MIRRORS LAMPSHADES
www.chanel.com
p 132
p84
p 20
p75
CON TEN TS 10 From the editor 43

January 2016
Books A focus on lighting; ideas for
garden landscaping; playful patterns;
and a look at the influence of weather
I NSI DE R
13 Shopping Viola Lanari reflects on
sleek and decorative wall mirrors DE COR AT I NG
17 Notebook Whats new in furniture, 45 Swatch Viola Lanari picks a pocketful
fabrics, wallpaper and home accessories of tactile and textured fabrics
23 News and views A tribute to Melissa 49 Design ideas Gabby Deeming sheds light
Wyndham, Victoria Bains embellished on the options for window dressings
leathers, and winter at Kew Gardens 57 Rita notes Advice on choosing bedlinen
29 Just in time Last-minute Christmas 58 Profile Rose Dahlsen meets Daniel
essentials, delivered to your door Fosbery, the designer behind lampshade
31 Outside interests Clare Foster considers and lighting company Copper & Silk
winter seed heads, and highlights
garden accessories and events LIFESTYLE
34 Out and about Latest launches, chic 61 Sunshine state of mind As the executive
showrooms, hot buys. By Carole Annett director of Design Miami, Rodman
39 Art scene Rita Konig profiles botanical Primack is playing a key role in the
p45
p 24 artist Emma Tennant. Plus, sculptors
who create intriguing pieces from stone
citys transformation into a centre of
design and art. By David Nicholls
VOLUME 71 NUMBER 1
On the cover: The sitting room of designer Ben Pentreaths Bloomsbury flat (pages 7883),
photographed by Jake Curtis. Cover stories are highlighted in colour
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK JANUARY 2016

Contents continued p17
+44 (0)20 7493 4444

p 39
Wigmore Street W1 Harrods SW1 Kings Road SW10

EDIT: INTERIORS, GARDENS, STORIES
70 Time for change After 10 years in this west London house, the
owners enlisted the help of designer and architect Rabih Hage
to update the layout and rooms. By Lucia van der Post
78 Personal project Architectural and interior designer Ben Pentreaths
Bloomsbury flat is a welcoming space that combines traditional elements
with modern and individual touches. By Caroline Clifton-Mogg
84 Pole positioning On the island of Mustique, designer Veere Grenney has
redesigned a bamboo house that is a study in neutrals. By Elfreda Pownall
88 Celebrating a golden age Gilder Clare Mosley and her husband Mark
Bicknell have revived a ravaged Georgian house in London. By Liz Elliot
94 The knowledge Inspired by the houses in this issue, Elizabeth Metcalfe
gives directions on how to achieve a similar style
96 Full steam ahead David Nicholls visits three pottery companies in
Stoke-on-Trent to get an insight into the future of the ceramics industry
102 Tribal gathering Gabby Deeming and Ruth Sleightholme create
stripped-back schemes with ethnic prints and African artefacts
From 7,500 to 125,000
108 Planned perfection To mark 300 years since the birth of Lancelot
Capability Brown, we take a look at some of the estates and gardens
that made him famous. By Tim Richardson
116 Snow white splendour Though beautiful year round, the gardens of
Cambo House in Fife come into their own in winter. By Caroline Beck
W I N E & F OOD
120 Taste notes News, reviews and tips for cooks and wine lovers.
By Joanna Simon
FELIX 03
122 Modern morsels Ring the changes this party season with Caroline
Bartys sweet and savoury canaps, which can be prepared in advance
127 Simple suppers Louisa Carter suggests easy dishes for entertaining,
including a vegetarian main course and a sponge for dessert
T R AV E L
129 View from the tracks In the first of a new series on journeys, Peter
Hughes enjoys a leisurely passage by train from Adelaide to Sydney
The worlds most comfortable bed, hand made in London 130 Going the distance Lauren Holmes revels in the relaxed pleasures
of Brazils undiscovered areas
132 Designer haunts Piero Castellinis guide to Milans hottest spots
E V E RY I S S U E
56 Subscriptions How to subscribe to House & Garden in the UK and US
133 Stockists
148 Tastemaker Alidads dos and donts of decorating
CON T R I BU TOR S
DAVID OLIVER
Photographer
David Oliver has tried his hand at
several creative careers. He was
a photographers assistant at the
age of 19 in New York, then ew
across the world to study sculp-
ture, printmaking and drawing in
Sydney, before settling in London
and founding the Paper & Paint
Library in 1996. He has been its
creative director ever since. Now
also working as a photographer,
he was assigned the task of cap-
turing an open-sided, bamboo-clad house in Mustique. Designed by
Veere Grenney and his team, the house is decorated in 50 shades of
beige, with bamboo bones that dont distract from the turquoise
waters and emerald landscape outside. See the results from page 84.
What is a favourite hobby of yours? Im never happier than when
travelling to a new destination. Nomadic by nature, I adore
getting lost and then found. My current addiction is treasure
hunting in the lesser-known North African medinas.
RABIH HAGE
Interior designer and architect
An architect and accidental int-
BRIDGET SARGESON erior designer, Rabih Hage needs
Food stylist little introduction to House &
It seems inevitable that Bridget Garden readers. Many of his
Sargesons name would appear projects have been featured in
one day in our Wine & Food the magazine and he has earned
section. My mother and I often a place in our directory of 100
used to drool over the sumptu- Leading Interior Designers.
ous interiors in House & Garden, Since my early work in France, I
she remembers. Her mother have thought that its as reward-
was also a terric cook and she ing to work on buildings from the
ingrained in her an appreciation inside out as building anew, he
for simple food that retained its says. This month, we step inside
natural attributes. In charge of the London house he has recon-
the food preparation and styling figured for a family, creating
for Modern morsels (from page grandly proportioned spaces for
122), Bridget has brought to life both entertaining and relaxing
the vibrant and varied canap (from page 70).
recipes with not a whiff of pastry. Any stories from your time
How did you start as a stylist? I working on this London house?
was flat-sharing with a home During one of my final visits,
economist and was intrigued I was chased around the house
by all her stories of working by a Great Dane a recent
in photographic studios. We acquisition of the family.
both loved cooking and the Luckily, the marble floor in
WORDS: ARTA GHANBARI
arts, and I wondered if I could the entrance hall was so well

make a career of the two. She polished that I made it to the
took me on a few jobs and I cloakroom unharmed and
4(+,05@692:/09,
havent looked back since. locked myself in ZPUJL
N
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JA N UA RY 2 0 1 6
FROM THE EDITOR
We can deliberate over choosing fabrics for days, weeks, even

months, but when it comes to curtains and blinds, the details of
how they are made up can easily be overlooked. I have to admit
that my knowledge of curtain terminology is scant, but I do know
that even if you opt for simple-seeming curtains hanging on a pole
or track, it is worth giving proper thought to the headings and fix-
tures, as they dictate the finished effect far more than you might
think. In response to my decorating inadequacies, between pages
49 and 55, Gabby Deeming has collated a host of good advice and
examples of curtains from the pretty softness of antique linen
with an unusual shirred pencil-pleat heading to the slickness of
those hung on a recessed ceiling track.
In fact, this issue is packed full of practical decorating ideas,
including Rita Konigs thoughts on bed linen (page 56) and an
in-depth look at bespoke lampshade makers, Copper & Silk
(page 58). It seems no interior is complete without pretty pleated
lampshades right now for evidence, look no further than Ben
Pentreaths Bloomsbury flat from page 78. There are several companies offering ready-made ones,
but if you want them in a fabric of your choice, Copper & Silk are good people to call.
Come February, gleaning such decorating know-how will be made even easier by the launch of The
List, House & Gardens new online directory that will be bulging with interior designers, architects,
landscape and garden designers, and companies providing design-related services all searchable
by specialism and area. House & Gardens 100 Leading Interior Designers are all included and so are
many more, as well as curtain makers, upholsterers and even joiners. If you are a designer or somebody
providing a specialist service who hasnt yet signed up, please do were hugely excited about it.
On another note, David Nicholls gives us a glimpse into two very different worlds this month. The
first is the glamorous Florida lifestyle of Rodman Primack, director of Design Miami, the cutting-
edge design fair that takes place this month, from page 61. Then between pages 96 and 101, he takes
us to Stoke-on-Trents struggling but hopeful pottery industry. Here at House & Garden we are
acutely aware of the difficulties associated with manufacturing in Britain, whether it be finding a
mill that will produce the base cloth needed for a printed fabric or a metal worker who can cast and
finish a lantern with the skill required. There are some worrying tales and some heartening ones, too
see Art scene, page 39, for an interview with Mark Cropper of the thriving paper manufacturer
James Cropper. We are keen to champion those who are determined to continue producing their
work in this country and to keep their skills and industries alive
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest, and

for more decoration inspiration, visit houseandgarden.co.uk
NICHOLAS SEATON
Fabric background: Romilly (marine red), by Virginia White Collection, linen, from Redloh House Fabrics
JANUARY 2016 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK

HERMS DRESSES THE HOME
FURNISHING FA B R ICS A N D WALLPAPERS
Furnishing fabric
and wallpapers retailers on
homefabrics.hermes.com
winter
SALE
%
15 everything*
1 S T DE C 31 S T JA N 2016
o
Order online at: mandarinstone.com Or visit one of our inspirational showrooms:

Bath :Bristol Cambridge Cardif Cheltenham Exeter Marlow Monmouth Weybridge Wilmslow
* Excludes Classic and Discontinued lines. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofer.
INSIDER SHOPPI NG | NOT E BOOK | N EWS | A RT | BOOK S
PHOTOGRAPHS
BILL BATTEN
On reflection
VIOLA LANARI looks into wall mirrors, from decorative styles to the sleek and streamlined
Clockwise from top left: Painted wood Bucranium, 106 x 55cm, 2,280, from Jamb. Coconut shell Coco (white), 75cm diameter, 1,225.20,
from Ochre. Painted Rope, 44cm diameter, 120, from Plmo. Metal and wood Cello Oak Leaf , 137 x 100cm, 7,200, from Cox London.
Metal Empire (florentine gold), 90 x 54cm, 1,375, from Tom Faulkner. Background fabric (reverse shown), Urbino (azzurro/antique white);
fabric patches, from left: Melila (azzurro), and Shelburn Damask (sea green); all by Marialida, cotton, 294 a metre, from Tissus dHlne

Clockwise from top left: Aluminium Vintage 1, 90 x 68cm, 1,506,
and steel Ivy Shadow (forest rust), from Richard Taylor Designs. Hand-
by Tord Boontje, 100cm diameter, carved sheesham Menagerie, 84 x
3,318, from Porta Romana. Brass 65cm, 368, from Anthropologie.
Large Melo, 40 x 28cm, 24.95, Brass Randaccio, by Gi Ponti,
from Rockett St George. Anodised 60cm diameter, 619, from Gubi.
aluminium Treasure Collection Background (reverse shown),
(bronze and soft gold), by Amy Tamas (tan/plum/silvery gold),
Cushing, 85 x 86cm, 7,500, by Marialida, cotton twill, 294 a
from Vessel Gallery. Antique brass metre, from Tissus dHlne

INSIDER | SHOPPING
Clockwise from top left: Hand-

beaded metal and wire Madam,
100 x 80cm, 850, from Justin
Van Breda. Cast resin Faux Bois
(white), by Oly Studio, 137 x 79cm,
2,600, from Paolo Moschino
for Nicholas Haslam. Painted
wood and silver-leaf verre glomis
Framed Convex, 71.4cm square,
795, from Dominic Schuster.
Lacquered resin Thalassa, by
Oriel Harwood, 50 x 55cm,
1,250, from Virginia White
Collection. Wooden Sorrel, 120
x 90cm, 490, from Oka. Back-
ground (reverse shown, with front
shown in fabric patch), Shelburn
*MURALS, FROM FIRST PAGE: THOMAS HOPE BY SIR WILLIAM BEECHEY; GEORGE GORDON BYRON, 6TH BARON BYRON BY THOMAS PHILLIPS; EMMA, LADY HAMILTON, BY GEORGE ROMNEY; ALL FROM 610 FOR A 200 X 300CM UNSTRETCHED CANVAS, FROM SURFACE VIEW
Damask (sea green/antique white),

by Marialida, cotton, 294 a
metre, from Tissus dHlne.
Murals (in mirrors throughout),
from Surface View*. For suppliers
details, see Stockists page

Your local Brewers could be your decorators best kept
secret. We have a huge range of paints, wallpaper,
fabrics, curtains & blinds to help you make your
home beautiful.
Visit brewers.co.uk WRQG\RXUQHDUHVWVWRUH
For furniture and gorgeous accessories
visit brewershome.co.uk
INSIDER | NOTEBOOK
1 2
Notebook
GABBY DEEMING shows us whats caught her eye this month
1 Hand-printed wallpaper, Cloud Garden (indigo), 52cm wide,

22 a metre, from Rapture & Wright. 2 Porcelain plate, Ottoman,
5 by Idarica Gazzoni, 20cm, 440 for a set of 4, from Arjumands
World. 3 Hand-antiqued mirror panel, Cloud Garden (pale grey),
from 550 a square metre, from Rapture & Wright. 4 Straw-
marquetry and blackened-steel bedside table, Cellini (blue), 65 x
55 x 45cm, 3,420, from Simon Orrell. 5 Painted beech armchair,
PIXELATE IMAGING
Spoonbill, 89 x 68 x 74cm, upholstered in Old Flax (watermelon),

cotton/flax, 7,690, from Soane

INSIDER | NOTEBOOK
1 2
PIXELATE IMAGING
5
6
1 Brass napkin rings, Amara, 28 for a set of 4 apples or 4 pears, from Rowen
& Wren. 2 Metal and bone china wall light, Hatton 4, 106 x 76 x 41.5cm
shade diameter, 599, from Original BTC. 3 Wallpaper, Dr Caligari, by Helen
Strevens, printed onto, from left: Breezin (BRE7826), Infinity (INF34252)
and Radiator (RAD1249), from 45 a metre, from Tektura Wallcoverings.
4 Spessart oak armchair, Mad, by Marcel Wanders, 69 x 74 x 70cm, upholstered
in Derby (navy), viscose mix, 1,522, from Poliform. 5 Bronze and marble
dining table, Ava, 76 x 150cm diameter, 15,000, from Tom Faulkner. 6 Hand-
woven raffia Kuba cloth cushions, from top: Fafa, 50cm square, 55; and
Chane, 60 x 80cm, 75; both from Lalibella

London | Los Angeles T +44 (0) 20 7730 2122 | jamb.co.uk
INSIDER | NOTEBOOK
1 Hand-screen-printed cotton quilt,

Rockpool (blue/grey), 254cm
square, 187, from Safomasi.
2 Beech wardrobe, by Workstead,
182.5 x 101.6 x 50.8cm, 8,700,
from Another Country. 3 Walnut,
steel, leather and wool sofa, Grid,
86 x 187 x 72cm, 2,950, from Petite
Friture. 4 Pewterised glass lamp
base, 48 x 35cm diameter, 488;
hand-painted shade, White Etched
Squares, 46cm diameter, 399; both
from TMO Lighting. 5 Fabric, from
left: Genua (fire/lake/stone), Plain
1
(gentian, lake green and fire), and
Milan (fire/seagreen/black), wool,
from 160 a metre, from Gisbert
Rentmeister. For suppliers details,
see Stockists page
PIXELATE IMAGING
4 5
20 JANUARY 2016 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK

PARIS / JANUARY 22-26, 2016 / SEPTEMBER 2-6, 2016
PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE
BE
HIGHLY
INSPIRED IN
PARIS
WWW.MAISON-OBJET.COM
[email protected]
SAFI ORGANISATION, A SUBSIDIARY OF ATELIERS DART DE FRANCE AND REED EXPOSITIONS FRANCE / TRADE ONLY / DESIGN BE-POLES - IMAGE DR - ZIMINDMITRY
21 > 25 Les rendez-vous des
diteurs et crateurs
de la dcoration
janvier internationale
The rendez-vous of
international interior
2016 designers and decoration
editors
ALCANTARA FADINI BORGHI MARK ALEXANDER

ALDECO FILIPPO UECHER MTAPHORES
ANDR DU DAUPHIN BY ART & DECOR FORTUNY MISIA
ANTHOLOGY GANCEDO MISSPRINT
ARTE GASTON Y DANIELA MISSONI HOME
BOUSSAC GLANT MOORE & GILES
BROCHIER GP & J BAKER MULBERRY HOME
BRUNO MOINARD EDITIONS HARLEQUIN NOBILIS
C&C MILANO HERMS NYA NORDISKA
CASADECO HOLLAND & SHERRY ORIGINAL BTC
CASAL HOULS OSBORNE & LITTLE
CASAMANCE JAB PASAYA
CHASE ERWIN JACARANDA CARPETS & RUGS PIERRE FREY
CHIVASSO JAKOB SCHLAEPFER PORTA ROMANA
CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER JAMES HARE RALPH LAUREN HOME
CHRISTIAN LACROIX JEAN PAUL GAULTIER ROBERT ALLEN
CLARKE & CLARKE JIM THOMPSON ROMO
C M O JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN RUBELLI
CODIMAT CO-DESIGN KARIN SAJO SAHCO
COLONY KIRKBY DESIGN SANDBERG
CRATION BAUMANN KOBE SANDERSON
DE LE CUONA KRAVET SETTE
DECLERCQ PASSEMENTIERS LARSEN SHEILA COOMBES
DECOBEL LE CRIN STUDIOART
DECORTEX FIRENZE LES MANUFACTURES CATRY TASSINARI & CHATEL
DEDAR LELIVRE THESIGN
DESIGNS OF THE TIME LIBERTY ART FABRICS INTERIORS THIBAUT
DESIGNERS GUILD LITTLE GREENE TRES TINTAS BARCELONA
DIURNE LIZZO VAUGHAN
DOMINIQUE PICQUIER LORCA VEREL DE BELVAL
DURALEE LORO PIANA INTERIORS WIND
ECART INTERNATIONAL LUCIANO MARCATO ZIMMER + ROHDE
EDMOND PETIT MANUEL CANOVAS ZOFFANY
ELITIS MARIAFLORA
www.paris-deco-off.com
news and views INSIDER | NEWS
Edited by DAVID NICHOLLS
PATTERN PLAY
Even when I was younger,
I was inluenced by the
Constructivists artists like
Malevich and Delaunay, says
the rug designer Christine
Van Der Hurd. And so, a
couple of years ago, she felt
the same izz of excitement
at the opening of a show by
Venezuelan artist Cipriano
Martnez at Londons Maddox
Arts gallery. I loved what he
did, his geometry and his
discipline in his painting, she
recalls. I could picture them
working well as silk dhurries.
She invited him to be the
irst artist to collaborate with
her. The result is a set of nine
Melissa Wyndham limited-edition silk rugs,
four of which are shown above.
March 18, 1949 to September 17, 2015 The ordered geometry that
typiies Christines rugs and
ust before the start of the London Design Festival in September, sad news
J arrived that the interior designer Melissa Wyndham had died at the age of 66.
textiles has been replaced
The talented designer had decorating in her blood: her great aunt was Nancy by Ciprianos more chaotic
Lancaster and her sister Jane Churchill. Melissas major projects included patterns: swirls of red, purple
Petworth House in Sussex, the Pugin interior of Lismore Castle in Ireland and and blue triangles that morph
Mottisfont Abbey in Hampshire, and shes also designed fabrics, rugs and furniture. As into one another, creating a
former House & Garden editor Susan Crewe, who had known Melissa since they were head-shaking optical illusion.
both in their teens, recalls, She had a marvellous and original sense of colour, and her Just three of each design
clients loved her because she was a wonderful combination of being professional and
will be produced, with
enormously good fun. Melissa was first diagnosed with breast cancer nearly 20 years
ago. But she was unfailingly upbeat, says Susan. She never, never complained prices starting at 4,000;
available through Maddox
HUGO BURNAND
and always went into the office. She simply didnt let it impede her progress. House &
Garden pays tribute to the designer with a look back at some of her beautiful projects at Arts until December 19.
houseandgarden.co.uk/melissawyndham. David Nicholls maddoxarts.com Arta Ghanbari
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 23
INSIDER | NEWS
Good bones
A new name on the
exceptional roster at Name to know
gallery-shop Willer is PATRICIA URQUIOLA
Caste, by US designer
The twenty-first century has seen the
Ty Best. Particularly
Milan-based Spanish designer Patricia
strong are the lithe, Urquiola develop into one of the giants
sculptural creations of the contemporary furniture-design
in brass, bronze and industry. After a few years working for the
wood. These include the Italian minimalist Piero Lissoni, she set
Wishbone Table, shown up on her own in 2001 and has built up a staggering port-
above in oak with a cast- folio: furniture for B&B Italia and Moroso, rugs for Gan,
bronze base and also accessories for Kartell, marble work for Budri, bathware for
Agape, and much more. A unifying characteristic of her
available with a wenge diverse work is what has been described as a feminine
or walnut top. From sensibility not to be confused with clichd girliness. Natu-
4,295; willer.co.uk. DN ral materials and craft processes are abundant, comfort
and practicality considered in her words, tools for living.
LUXURY
Patricias most recent project is a kitchen (her first) for the LEATHER
Italian company Boffi, which presents a modern slant on an Known for her embroidered fabrics,
earthy, eclectic aesthetic. At the London launch, she said it Victoria Bain has joined forces with
was time for a different kind of kitchen to the streamlined, Whistler Leather to produce a range
strictly functional spaces we are accustomed to. The modu- of embellished leathers, which can
lar Salinas design (above) uses smooth and textured be used for upholstery, wall panels
components such as wood, zinc, copper, glass and ceramic, and cushions. The stools pictured
which can be combined to create individual designs. Prices above in, from left, the Alex and
start at 36,000. boffi.com | patriciaurquiola.com DN Claydon patterns, cost 2,050
each. The range comes in a wide
selection of colours, including the
imaginatively named Verbier Rich
Promise (left) and Bilbao Terracotta
Blast from (right) seen here. The leathers are
the past embroidered in Nottingham and
The latest company to have a good take six weeks to make. A custom-
rummage through its archive to find embroidered hide costs from 250
designs to put back in production is a square foot. whistlerleather.com
the English furniture maker Parker Elizabeth Metcalfe
& Farr. Having recently rediscovered
a 1975 brochure filled with designs
by David Hicks (pictured top) for the
maker, it has chosen three sofas
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW/ANDREW MCROBB
to reintroduce to its collection. The

Benson (pictured above) hasnt
been produced since 1978, but it still
expresses Hicks signature groovy M AG I CA L W I N T RY T O U R
joie de vivre. The sofa is shown here Once again, Kew Gardens (above) has created an enchanting after-dark experience for
in a punchy tomato-red fabric by G P the Christmas season. Armed with roasted chestnuts and mulled wine, visitors are invited
& J Baker, one of many coverings to wander along a glittering, illuminated one-mile trail. During the day, there will be
available; it costs 4,068 as seen. Christmas-decoration and card-making workshops, and there are rumours of an appearance
parkerandfarr.com DN by Father Christmas. Christmas at Kew runs until January 2. kew.org/christmas DN

LONDON
Mayfair I Knightsbridge I Notting Hill I Chelsea I Clerkenwell

Battersea I Wandsworth I Tunbridge Wells I Oxshott
+44 (0) 333 011 3333 At Home Design Service available

INSIDER | NEWS
Founded by HELEN
CORMACK in 2006,
Tissus dHlne
at Design Centre,
Chelsea Harbour is
a mecca for interior
designers, boasting
a range of fabrics
and wallpapers from
FIRST PERSON all over the globe Out of Africa
South African crat takes
centre stage in Curate,

My mother read House & Garden grandmother had Fifties Swedish
and, trawling through her old furniture covered in bright wools Justin Van Bredas new
issues, I stumbled across Mary Fox she mixed everything with style. accessories collection. The
Lintons house. Although it was interior designer has
not to my taste, because Im not a If something is handprinted, its worked with 11 artists
modernist in any shape or form, it not perfect and it cant be perfect. from his home country to
made such an impression on me. Every single version will always be produce a magniicent
Seeing her design and reading the different and thats what makes it 25-piece collection,
interview persuaded me to move appealing. Its an important lesson
into interior decoration in 1984. for my clients to learn.
including, from the top, an
oxidised bronze vessel by
It was a chance meeting with I launched my own collection, Otto du Piessis (380);
Nina Campbell that led to the Fleurons dHlne, three years Singing Tulip vase by
inception of Tissus dHlne. She ago, with floral and geometric cot- Samantha Morgan
had two fabulous fabric houses ton prints in variegated colours, (1,950); hand-painted
Quidrille and Galbraith & Paul followed by chintzes, all edited plate by Michael Chandler
which she was no longer able to from my private compilation of
(650); and Charcoal
represent and asked if I was inter- old European documents dating
ested in taking them on. I had to from the mid-eighteenth century
Pot 1 by Chuma Maweni
pinch myself I was so pleased. to the late nineteenth century. My (550). j-v-b.com EM
latest additions are handsome
The first year, my turnover was stripes, chenilles and stris.
absolutely tiny and I wondered if
more people were going to walk My idea is to build a collection that
through the door. Bit by bit they reflects my eclectic taste and love
did and here I am nine years later. of pattern paisleys, ikats, and old
English and French prints as well
I represent 52 companies in total, as textured plains. I would also
ALL FABRICS AND WALLPAPERS SHOWN ARE AVAILABLE FROM TISSUS DHELENE
including wallpapers, fabrics and love to do a wallpaper collection.

carpets. Its so interesting how
they all work together. Theres the
potential for endless combinations.
I was raised on colour and pattern

my mothers clothes were made
Developing all this has been the
most incredible learning curve and
is taking me on a wonderful jour-
ney of textile history and an under-
standing of printing and weaving.
421 Design Centre East, Chelsea

from Liberty prints and I wore Harbour, SW10; tissusdhelene.co.uk
Fair Isle sweaters and kilts. My Emily Tobin

our lovely bestsellers are
ready and waiting to go!
head over to our website
to find your perfect match.
Chelsea Bath Edinburgh Amsterdam

www.sofa.com
Advise | Design | Procure | Construct
Decorate | Manage | Maintain
THE SMARTEST TRAVEL

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INSIDER | CHRISTMAS
in the details
Embroidered linen napkin
with bunny motif, by
Coral & Tusk, 19.95,
order by December 22,
from Liberty. liberty.co.uk
THREE OF THE
BEST NAPKINS
Just in time
ROSE DAHLSEN scours the internet for Christmas essentials
that can be delivered to your door at the last minute
christmas angles
Geometric-design paper This year, forget the frenetic whizz around the shops to buy those all-important final decorations
napkins, 3.50 for 20, and presents you can do it all with the click of a button instead. Wrapping paper, Brussels Sprout,
order by December 18, 9.95 for 5 sheets, order by December 21, from Nancy & Betty Studio (nancyandbetty.com). Hand-
from Talking Tables. painted ceramic baubles, by Molly Hatch and Starla Halfmann, 12 each, order by December 21, from
Anthropologie (anthropologie.com). Stockings, from left: Paisley, 26, order by December 19, from
talkingtables.co.uk
Toast (toa.st). Red Liberty print, 39.95; and Christmas tree, 19.95; order both by December 22, from
Liberty (liberty.co.uk). Pompoms, 20, from Habitat, order by December 21, from Habitat (habitat.co.uk).
Crackers, Stag and Mistletoe, 55 for a box of 6, with a hand-printed handkerchief in each, order by
December 20, from Thornback & Peel (thornbackandpeel.co.uk).
FOUR FINISHING TOUCHES

FLOWERS PUDDING WREATH SCENT
White narcissus flowers Melrose and Morgan creates Helen Green Design has With frankincense, pine and
make quick and pretty table handmade plum puddings, teamed up with John Carter gingerbread, Roja Parfums
decorations. Scented which contain stout, brandy, Flowers to create this wreath Essence of Christmas candle
Narcissi sells a bunch of prunes and mixed peel; of copper beech, laurustinus would also make a handy
50 fragrant stems for 16.95 for a 900g pudding, and snow berries; 175, emergency present; 75,
22, order by December 21. order by December 18. order by December 14. order by December 21.
scentednarcissi.co.uk melroseandmorgan.com johncarterflowers.com rojaparfums.com
PIXELATE IMAGING; GAP PHOTOS/VISIONS
trees company
Screen-printed linen/
cotton napkins, 21 for
2, order by December
14, from Fine Little Day.
finelittleday.com

SPECTACLED BEAR. Tremarctos ornatus. FACING EXTINCTION.
The extinction of Ecuadors rarest species

is just too much to bear.
In a remote and unique habitat, engulfed in a near Recent reports show that a cluster of properties in the
permanent blanket of fog, rare and magical mammals Andean cloud forest have come on to the market which
like the spectacled bear and the mountain tapir make is exciting news. The properties are close to existing
their homes. Flourishing alongside them are forests of reserves and a priority for protection, but time is short:
micro orchids, some of the worlds tiniest plant species, World Land Trust urgently needs 500,000 to save these
which can only survive in the conditions particular to areas and the species they shelter.
these locations.
Donations will make a real difference to the worlds
Defending these extraordinary forests, and the plants remaining cloud forests, preserving them as a permanent
and animals that rely on them, is a shared vision safe habitat for all the species great and small that
for international charity World Land Trust and its depend on them for survival. The future of these fragile
Ecuadorian partner, the charity Fundacin EcoMinga. ecosystems is in our hands, and we can act together to
Since 2007 the two organisations have been working save them today.
together to buy parcels of land, bit by bit, acre by acre,
to create nature reserves to secure the future of known For more information please call 01986 874422
species and those yet to be discovered. or visit www.worldlandtrust.org, for instant donations
please text LAND12 to 70070 to donate up to 10.
The money that is given to the World Land Trust, in my estimation,

has more effect on the wild world than almost anything I can think of.
Sir David Attenborough, Patron, World Land Trust
INSIDER | NEWS
WINTER INSPIRATION
Rousham Gardens in Oxfordshire are a joy in midwinter,
WHATS with all the structural elements laid bare. Designed by
William Kent in the eighteenth century, the gardens are
IN STORE? almost as he left them, including the sinuous rill, cascades,
Designed to withstand all
statuary and various follies such as the Eyecatcher,
weathers, the Aldsworth
a fake ruin set in the wider landscape to draw the eye.
Outdoor Storage Box from
The gardens are open daily throughout the year
Garden Trading would also
and entry is 5 (no children under 15). rousham.org
work well in a garden shed.
Measuring 64 x 104 x 60cm,
it is made from spruce and
zinc with a slanted lid to
allow rain to run off; this
large size is 195 plus p&p.
gardentrading.co.uk
YOU CAN NEVER HAVE

ENOUGH BUCKETS, BINS AND
TRUGS FOR THE GARDEN,
AND THIS RECLAIMED METAL
OLIVE BUCKET, PREVIOUSLY
USED FOR HARVESTING
OLIVES OR GRAPES, IS
Outside Interests
IDEAL FOR WEEDS, MUDDY
POTATOES OR LOGS. IT
CAN ALSO BE LINED WITH
PLASTIC AND USED AS
A PLANTER. MEASURING CLARE FOSTER finds fresh gardening inspiration
34 X 36CM DIAMETER, IT
COSTS 38 PLUS P&P FROM
HENANDHAMMOCK.CO.UK. FEAST FOR
THE EYES
If you are heading to Kew
Royal Botanic Gardens
for its Christmas activities
(see News and views), be
sure to visit the Natures
Bounty exhibition in the
Shirley Sherwood Gallery.
It showcases paintings
of fruit, vegetables and
edible plants, including
RBG-KEW; ANDREW LAWSON
Beetroot, pictured right,

by Susannah Blaxill. Until
January 31; admission
is included with entry to
the gardens, 16.50

INSIDER | NEWS
PLANTING
IDEAS:
WINTER
SEEDHEADS
he prairie garden at Cambo Gardens in
T Scotland (see Snow white splendour

in this issue) proves that seed heads can be
beautiful. The muted colours and archi-
tectural outlines of perennials and grasses
create a scene far more dynamic than chopped-back
stems and bare earth, as well as providing a source of
food and shelter for birds and small animals. If you
choose your plants carefully, the more robust speci-
mens will last right through until March, to be cut
down only when the first green shoots are coming
through. For maximum visual interest, choose plants
with varying shapes and structures, from button-like
cones and umbels to spires and spikes.
TOP FIVE PLANTS FOR SEED HEADS

Phlomis russeliana is the absolute best seed head for
robustness and longevity. Its chocolate-brown seed
capsules are held in whorls up the stem, providing the
perfect playground for flocks of goldfinches and other
small birds, which feast on the seeds. Phlomis thrives
in dry, poor soils, and can spread quickly, so keep it in
check by lifting and dividing every few years.
Ornamental grasses, such as Miscanthus sinensis,
are strong and long-lasting, their fluffy blond seed
heads creating a golden backdrop for other plantings.
I grew Malepartus in my previous garden; it is a
striking plant with purplish plumes that will silver
beautifully as they age.
Coneflowers such as Echinacea purpurea or E. pallida
flower late in the season, leaving distinctive buttony
cones as they die back. They are classic American
*AVAILABLE AT AMAZON.CO.UK FOR 20. PHOTOGRAPHS: GAP PHOTOS; MARIANNE MAJERUS GARDEN IMAGES
prairie plants that look good planted in ribbons and
drifts. Rudbeckias such as R. laciniata or R. fulgida
var. deamii Goldsturm can be put in the same camp,
with similar dark-brown cones on willowy stems.
Veronicastrum virginicums candelabra-like spires
provide upright accents in the garden and last well
into winter, turning rich shades of brown as they
fade. The flowers of the cultivar Fascination have a
tendency to thicken out, providing a different, more
robust profile than the delicate Lavendelturm. Both
work well in winter.
The spiky forms of eryngiums are also very worthy
candidates for a winter garden. Eryngium giganteum
fades to a golden hue, lit up by a low winter sun, while
smaller forms such as E. amethystinum are sparkling
jewels when outlined in frost.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The classic American prairie plant Echinacea
FURTHER READING: Seedheads in the Garden by purpurea. Ornamental grass Miscanthus sinensis. Eryngium giganteum.
Noel Kingsbury (Timber Press)* Phlomis russeliana seed capsules. Veronicastrum virginicum

The Capability Brown
Festival 2016 launches
this month to mark the
three-hundredth
anniversary of Browns
birth (see Planned
perfection later in this
issue for more about
the anniversary). The
festival brings together
garden openings and
events at sites round the
country. Details and an
interactive map of the
Brown sites can be found
at capabilitybrown.org.
STARTER KITS
If you have no spare time to browse the seed catalogues, these new
seed collections from Johnsons are all you need to get going in
the garden. Packed in reusable tins, the Award Winning Vegetable
Collection includes all the basic vegetables, from leeks to carrots,
while the Perfect for Pollinators Collection includes bright zinnias,
Californian poppies and nigella; 14.99 each. johnsons-seeds.com
THESE TEXTURED
SKIN POT VASES, BY
ITALIAN COMPANY
MYYOUR, ARE MADE
FROM MOULDED
PLASTIC AND
COME IN A RANGE
OF 15 COLOURS,
FOR INDOOR OR
OUTDOOR USE.
THE POTS ARE
AVAILABLE IN
SMALL (60CM
BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY
HIGH, 220 PLUS

P&P) AND LARGE
(120CM HIGH, 340
PLUS P&P). OUTDOOR
CHIC.CO.UK
INSIDER | NEWS
OUT AND
ABOUT
Latest launches chic showrooms
hot buys CAROLE ANNETT takes note
POINTED
PATTERNS SOANES NEW ROPE
Flicking through Vogue, I noticed DESIGN, CREATED
that zigzag patterns were all over FROM TWISTED BRASS
the catwalks for autumn/winter. FLUTING, FEATURES
Echo the theme with, from left, ON THIS ARGO WALL
Dedars Tangram (001), silk, LIGHT. THE BASE
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSHUA MONAGHAN; FEDERICO MARIN. CAROLE IS WEARING A COAT, SHOES AND BAG FROM CAROLINA HERRERA
164 a metre, and On The Edge IS 12.5CM TALL AND
(002), cotton/linen, 130 a metre. IT COSTS 1,100
020-7351 9939; dedar.com EXCLUDING THE SHADE.
020-7730 6400; SOANE.COM
SUBTLY
SMOKY
From chocolate
through to minky
grey, these smoky
quartz Isko obelisks
from Luxdeco will
look great dotted
around on open
shelves. They cost
from 330 for the
medium 17cm-tall
size. luxdeco.com
Perfect for ireside reading, the Dublin chair by the Sofa & Chair
Company measures 71 x 75cm square, and costs 1,892 as seen, covered
in Avorez Mirage (0790) velvet. 020-8752 8935; thesofaandchair.co.uk
EARNING
STRIPES
Roger Oates has a new
service that allows cus- OPENING
tomers to create striped DRAWERS
floor runners in bespoke This oak, iron and copper Yoroi
colourways. The team will sideboard, by Alessandro
create a digital version, Masturzo for De Castelli, can
which is then woven onto also double as a drinks cabinet.
a 35cm square sample It measures 90 x 208 x 46cm
before finally being made and costs 10,190, from
into a full runner. 020-7351 Staffan Tollgard. 020-7952
2288; rogeroates.com 6070; tollgard.co.uk
NEWS IN BRIEF Drummonds has launched a bathroom design service, making its space-planning expertise available
to all customers, free of charge, through its website and at its Notting Hill showroom. drummonds-uk.com

Come and learn from Apply
the experts at Londons most now!
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Our inspiring courses include the
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INSIDER | NEWS
Samuel & Sons showroom at Design

Centre, Chelsea Harbour has row
upon row of trimmings, braids and
fringing. Pictured are some of its
trims in stock, from top: Diamond
Constellation (smoked trout),
Rhodes Epingl Velvet (teal),
China Cloud Embroidered (rubans
red), and Rhodes Epingl Velvet
(cabernet); from 78 a metre.
020-7351 5153; samuelandsons.co.uk
ITALIAN SALVESEN
GRAHAM
INSPIRATION salvesengraham.com
Christopher Guy Harrison, founder

of the eponymous furniture com- Join The List
pany, has named this side table The List, House & Gardens online directory
Giacometti, because its long, of design professionals, continues to grow
slender legs reminded him of the and will soon be available on our website,
Italian artist and sculptors work. It HOUSE. These three companies have signed
has a hand-wrought brass base and up. Are you on The List? Be a part of it by
solid mahogany top, measures 65 x registering at houseandgarden.co.uk/thelist.
60cm square, and costs 4,147. 020- For more information, call 020-7152 3639, or
3397 2410; christopherguy.com email [email protected]
NEWS IN BRIEF The Monogrammed Linen Shop is now owned

by Yves Delorme. I think its personalised bathrobes for little
ones are lovely presents. They are available at the shop on
Walton Street, SW3 and the Yves Delorme concession at Harrods;
from 45 for a one-year size. uk.yvesdelorme.com | harrods.com
WINNERS
CIRCLE
NICHOLAS
Our congratulations go to SUNDERLAND
Cia Attling (centre left) and nsinteriors.com
Marie Wallenberg-Olson of
Vandra Rugs for winning the
House & Garden Decorex
Award for most stylish prod-
uct at Decorex. They are seen
here with editor Hatta Byng
(left) and decoration direc-
tor Gabby Deeming (right).
We are extremely pleased,
happy and proud for Vandra MARIAN
BOSWALL
Rugs to win this award. We love our product handwoven rugs in natural LANDSCAPE
materials, based on rag rug techniques and the endless variations one ARCHITECTS
can make of it, says Cia. The rug in the background is Loro, a new design marianboswall.com
by architect and designer Ami Katz. Vandra Rugs is based in Stockholm
and available in the UK from Sinclair Till. vandra-rugs.com | sinclairtill.co.uk

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HOUSE & GARDEN
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PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSHUA MONAGHAN

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art scene
INSIDER | ART
Edited by EMILY TOBIN
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE Three Annuals, 2013. Aubergine,

2014. Phacelia campanularia, 2013. Four Funghi, 2014. Lapageria
rosea II (red form), 2014. Lapageria rosea I (pink form), 2014
PICK OF THE CROP

RITA KONIG profiles the artist Emma Tennant, who employs
her skills as a gardener to provide subjects for her botanical works
mma Tennant, whose delicate and charming remember a time when I was not interested in both
E botanical watercolours are full of character,

is currently showing her work in a selling
exhibition at The Fine Art Society in London.
In the two years since her last exhibition at
Chatsworth which was hosted by her brother, the Duke
of Devonshire she has been travelling and painting
watercolours of flowers, fruits and vegetables. These are
gardening and painting, she says. I must have been born
with a trowel in one hand and a paintbrush in the other.
Her own garden in the Scottish Borders bursts with
colour and life. Where other people grow vegetables to
eat them, the culmination for me is painting them.
Some of the pieces in this show depict plants that Emma
has grown from seed after trips to places as far flung as
exhibited alongside a collection of gilded panels created Patagonia. To know something about the collectors and
in conjunction with her daughter Isabel. explorers who risked their lives to bring us these treasures
Emma was first encouraged to garden at the age of six adds to the romance of gardening; there is half a lifetime
by her parents gardener Mr Chester an old-school, of friendships and places in some of these plants.
very skilled, dear fellow. Since those early years hanging
around the potting shed, Emma has become a devoted Plants with Provenance is at The Fine Art Society until
gardener, plantswoman and botanical painter. I cannot December 10 (faslondon.com). Watercolours start at 500
THE FINE ART SOCIETY; BEN WOOD

INSIDER | ART
EXHIBITIONS
ARTIST AND EMPIRE

The term empire is highly provocative
in the twenty-first century. This exhibition
at Tate Britain brings together over 200
paintings, drawings, photographs and
sculptures, setting out to examine the
people who helped to create, promote
or confront the British Empire in their
work. Until April 10; tate.org.uk
ROYAL INSTITUTE
OF OIL PAINTERS
T H E WO R L D O F ANNUAL
EXHIBITION
Oil painting in all its
MARK CROPPER forms is celebrated at
Chairman of paper manufacturer James Cropper the Mall Galleries. The
exhibition highlights
The company was founded by my great-great-great- the many ways in which

grandfather in 1845. To this day, we are based in the artists use the medium,
same place Burneside Mills in the Lake District and includes works by
which has been a site of industrial activity since the Malcolm Ashman and
Middle Ages. Paper-making began here in 1753. Susan Bower.
Until December 13;
In the 170 years since our foundation, weve weathered mallgalleries.org.uk
innumerable challenges from depressions and wars
to savage competition, disastrous fires and dramatic FABIO MAURI
shifts in the use and demand for our products. The Italian artists career spanned five decades and multiple
mediums, from drawing and painting to sculpture, perfor-
Our paper is ubiquitous in the art world, both as mance, film and theatre. This month, Hauser & Wirths
a medium for artists to draw or paint on and latterly London gallery presents a retrospective of his work, much
for archival-quality digital printing and for of which is concerned with the rise of Fascism and the
Holocaust. December 11February 6; hauserwirth.com
IAN THOMAS/V&A IMAGES; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; STEVE MESSAM 2015; SCOTTISH NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY; ELISABETTA CATALANO
presentation and preservation. Our mount boards
are used for framing and archiving by galleries
and museums on every continent.
A highlight of this year was PaperBridge, an installation

by the artist Steve Messam in a remote Lake District
valley (above). It was built from 22,000 sheets of the
red paper we make for the Remembrance Day poppies.
I visited Japan for the first time in February. We loved

their wonderful paper culture. I dragged the family into
every paper shop in every town and had to buy an extra
suitcase to bring home all the amazing papers I bought.

James Cropper: jamescropper.com
FROM TOP Yousuf Karsh, Sir John Buchan, 1st Baron Tweedsmuir,
Governor General of Canada, 1937. Malcolm Ashman, Dartmoor,
2015. Fabio Mauri, Ideologia e Natura, 1973, performance at
U P DAT E Galleria Duemila, Bologna. BELOW FROM LEFT German writing
cabinet in rococo style, c.1750-55. Stoneware jug, c.1780-1800
This month, the V&A will unveil its new Europe

galleries which, ater a 12.5 million restoration,
will display the museums collection of seventeenth-
and eighteenth-century European art and design.
BUYING ART
Hard matters
EMILY TOBIN looks at the work of three sculptors
who create pieces from stone and its composites
Heavy, unyielding and often impenetrable, stone does not lend
itself to being easily worked, and yet sculptors gravitate towards this
temperamental material. Perhaps it is the allure of a challenge, or its
timelessness, monumentality and permanence. Whatever the appeal,
there is a certain lyricism with which sculptors talk about stone.
Michelangelo declared that every block has a statue inside it and it is the
task of the sculptor to discover it, while Barbara Hepworth loved marble
for its radiance in the light, its hardness, precision and response to
the sun. Remarkably, sculptors working today are still able to coax out
new and imaginative forms from this material, creating works that
are tactile, aesthetic and that bridge the gap between art and nature.
ALMUTH TEBBENHOFF
Eduardo Paolozzi spotted the work of Almuth
Tebbenhoff in the late Seventies. He was so imp-
BEN GASKELL ressed by her pots and surreal sculptures that he
Ben Gaskells handsome hard-stone pieces are invited her to unofficially use the facilities at the
deceptively simple. Exquisitely finished but, as Royal College of Art, which, says Almuth, opened
he says, not decorated or fussed over, their everything up for me. It was there I learnt to ques-
modesty of form belies a long and messy process tion my own choices and decisions.
of scratching, bashing and polishing. Though they Almuth had previously shied away from stone
vary in shape and size, his works tend towards it was too hard, too heavy, too dense and too dif-
slick cubes and rhomboids; on first glance, they ficult. But, following a scholarship in Pietrasanta
are solid, impenetrable blocks, but on closer ins- in Italy, where she was taught how to carve marble
pection they are cleft in two by a fissure that by master craftsmen, she fell in love with the
slices across the stone. Ben spent 10 years as a process. While some artists relish the weight of
trader in raw rock crystal, so is well acquainted stone, Almuth concedes that she has always
with the gem-trading entrepts of the world fought with the material and yet, miraculously, she
and knows where to find his favoured agate, por- brings a certain lightness to her sculptures. She
phyries and black Swedish dolerite which he does her marble work in Italy, right at the source,
chooses because they are hard, durable and where the harsh, bright sunlight shows up every
structurally competent. Though he is not form- bump and unintended unevenness, and so much
ally trained, Ben has spent thousands of hours the better, for her work invites you to savour every
working on the restoration, repair or copying of smooth surface and clean line. Prices start at
antique hard-stone objects, and this, rather than around 4,000; tebbenhoff.org
college, has given him the best and most stub-
bornly realistic discipline to teach him his trade.
Prices start at 10,000; adriansassoon.com
HILDA HELLSTRM
Hilda Hellstrm works in Welsh anthracite and Jesmonite; the latter, strictly speaking, is a
composite, though it shares many of the same qualities as stone. Hildas classically propor-
tioned urns seem to contain entire universes in their surface undulating coloured strata
form swirling shades of midnight blue, cut through with turquoise, pink and sometimes red.
The effect is rather like looking at a mythical landscape from a stratospheric height. There is
this idea that stone is a rigid material, says Hilda, but, like everything else, it is in constant
movement, yet at a much slower pace and thats what intrigues me. Hilda trained at the
Royal College of Art in London, but has since returned to her native Sweden, where she now
works from a converted ceramics factory. Prices start at 800; hildahellstrom.se
FROM TOP Almuth Tebbenhoff, In One Hundred Light Years Turn Left, 60cm diameter,
marble. Hilda Hellstrm, Sedimentation Urn, 43 x 17cm diameter, Jesmonite.
Ben Gaskell, Box carved from Egyptian Red Porphyry, 8.5 x 9.4 x 9.7cm

Recipes inspired by Northern The world of Max Deliss,
Italy, created by Diana Henry a restorer of oil paintings
N E XT M O N T H I N
AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK INSIDE

KELLY HOPPENS NEW HOME

A Berkshire garden by Gertrude Bringing modern style and
Jekyll and Edwin Lutyens revived PICTURE-PERFECT TOILES colour to a Scottish lodge

DECORATING SCHEMES
WITH BROWN FURNITURE
FEBRUARY ISSUE
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CONSERVATION
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RESTORATION
PHOTOGRAPHS: LINE T KLEIN; ANDREW MONTGOMERY; JOSHUA MONAGHAN; DAVIDE LOVATTI

&
INSIDER | BOOKS
Words pictures
What to read: the latest books chosen by ROSE DAHLSEN
THE LANGUAGES OF LIGHT: A CREATIVE PATTERNITY A NEW WAY OF SEEING: THE

APPROACH TO RESIDENTIAL LIGHTING INSPIRATIONAL POWER OF PATTERN
Rebecca Weir and Allyson Coates (Artifice, 29.95) Anna Murray and Grace Winteringham (Conran Octopus, 30)
After woefully neglecting the lighting in our otherwise beautifully designed In 2009, product designer Grace Winteringham and art director Anna
pre-children flat, we made a beeline for Rebecca Weir and Light IQ when it Murray started Patternity, an online gallery of pattern-related imagery.
came to rebuilding our current house. The calm, intelligent and practical They collaborate with furniture and fashion brands, and put together talks
approach she uses in her work is there in abundance in The Languages of and exhibitions on the subject. A New Way of Seeing is not a technical
Light. Written with Allyson Coates, this work has the distinction of being at book, and it is not particularly concerned with pattern as surface decora-
once useful and beautiful. It is a comprehensive resource theres even a tion. Rather, it is a brilliant collection of picture references interspersed
glossary yet avoids being a manual. The writing is sensitive and intelligent, with musings on the nature of pattern. The visual content largely consists
weaving psychology and the forces of nature into a sophisticated and, of images of nature or everyday life juxtaposed with stills from the fashion
at times, technical discourse world. A seething mass of centi-
covering subjects as diverse pedes shot by Tim Flach sits
as garden lighting and avoiding opposite a catwalk still from Iris
the black mirror effect on glass van Herpen that is just as skin-
windows. The chapters on light- crawling. This is an uplifting tour
ing techniques and case studies of pattern-related subjects, with
make great use of beautiful, brief introductions to Fibonacci,
minimally styled photography Mandelbrot, the golden ratio,
to illustrate all the tricks of the chaos theory and Buddhist
trade from coffered ceilings ideas. While the core is visual
and wall-washing to shadow and the content is largely
gaps. Readers will wonder how fashion-orientated, they give a
they managed without this book wide-eyed leaping-off point into
which, like Rebecca, has become the subjects they touch upon.
my friend. Kate Slesinger Ruth Sleightholme
GARDEN DESIGN WEATHERLAND:

SOLUTIONS: IDEAS WRITERS AND
FOR OUTDOOR SPACES ARTISTS UNDER
Stephen Woodhams ENGLISH SKIES
(Jacqui Small, 25) Alexandra Harris (Thames
Stephen Woodhams possesses & Hudson, 24.95)
a wealth of experience in the Weathered furniture may be
design world and this book fashionable, but we live in an
brings together an eclectic mix age remote from weather, with
of his own projects, both in this our air conditioning and under-
country and abroad. Useful for floor heating. To our forebears,
anyone planning a new garden, extreme weathers inspired both
the book is weighted towards fear and romance. Dr Alexandra
elements of hard landscaping Harris, English lecturer at the
rather than planting, including University of Liverpool, has
sections on boundaries, focal traced the effects of weather on
points, lighting and water features, among others. Spatial design and plan- religion, mythology, literature and art, from the Dark Ages to the present day.
ning is covered, with plans shown alongside photographs of the finished It was always cold and stormy in Anglo-Saxon poems; physical conquest
spaces. There are plenty of interesting ideas to take away: for example, the of all that was monstrous in mist and mere was the making of a warrior,
design for a small courtyard with alternating bands of paving and pebbles, as well as a holy man, she explains. In the works of Shakespeare and the
with the pebble bands narrowing towards the house to create a false per- Bront sisters, the weather often reflects a characters behaviour and
spective. I particularly liked a set of elegant pots made from rendered and moods. It seems it did not get hot in English literature until the twentieth
painted concrete rings, and Stephens interesting use of living walls for small century think The Go-Between and The Cement Garden. Meticulously
urban courtyards. This is a great sourcebook for anyone needing garden researched from original documents, the book is thick with fascinating
inspiration, with friendly and apposite advice from an expert. Clare Foster information and really needs reading twice to take it in. Hugh St Clair

D E C O R AT I N G
S WA T C H | D E S I G N I D E A S | R I T A N O T E S | P R O F I L E
Pick a pocket or two

VIOLA LANARI has a selection of tactile, textured fabrics up her sleeve
PHOTOGRAPHS ANDERS GRAMER
TOP ROW FROM LEFT Big Herringbone (rose), by Sequana, wool, 150, from Tissus dHlne. Lowlands (blood orange), wool, 156, from Holland & Sherry.
Tweed Couleurs (navy orange), by Dominique Kieffer for Rubelli, cotton mix, 108, from Rubelli. MIDDLE ROW FROM LEFT Noise (742), wool/nylon,
189, from Kvadrat/Raf Simons. Bogardine (ottanio), viscose mix, 112.50, from Dedar. BOTTOM ROW FROM LEFT Alpilles (red), wool mix, 119.20, from
Casamance. Sonar 2 (633), wool mix, 232, from Kvadrat/Raf Simons. Phinda R Douze, wool mix, from 475, from Toyine Sellers. BACKGROUND
Cashmere Donegal (pink), 540, from Holland & Sherry. All prices per metre

Visit our website
HEALTHY
RECIPES
Gourmet yet good-
for-you recipes from
House & Gardens
finest food writers.
Try Diana Henrys
vegetable-laden
dinner party menu,
or Sybil Kapoors
creative Middle
Eastern fusions
including this spicy
roast-aubergine
salad with
pomegranate
and yogurt.
houseandgarden.
co.uk/healthyeating
STORAGE SOLUTIONS RENOVATION STORY WINDOW SEATS LOVE THE LIGHT
Get organised with more A London couples quest Pretty and practical ideas From sconces and pendants
than 100 clever ideas. to create a characterful for a room with a view. to table lamps, be inspired by
houseandgarden.co.uk/ home. houseandgarden.co. houseandgarden.co.uk/ our archive. houseandgarden.
storagesolutions uk/renovationfiles windowseats co.uk/lightingdesign
HO US E A N D GA R DE N.C O.U K
FOLLOW US ON
PHOTOGRAPHS: WILLIAM LINGWOOD; PAUL MASSEY; MICHAEL NEWINGTON-GRAY; SARAH HOGAN

DECORATING | SWATCH
TOP ROW FROM LEFT Signal (teal), cotton mix, 62, from Kirkby Design. Alpilles (yellow), wool mix, 119.20, from Casamance. MIDDLE ROW FROM
LEFT Caniche (lapis), cotton mix, 90, from Zinc Textile. Huckleberry (nougat), wool, 173, from de Le Cuona. Coda 2 (410), by Norway Says & Per Bjrnsen,
wool/nylon, 160, from Kvadrat. BOTTOM ROW FROM LEFT Big Herringbone (sea green), by Sequana, wool, 150, from Tissus dHlne. Wool Dot
(sterling), wool mix, 252, from J Robert Scott. BACKGROUND Savile Row (blue canard), by Mtaphores, wool/linen, 103.60, from Abbott & Boyd.
All prices per metre. For suppliers details, see Stockists page

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DESIGN IDEAS
Window dressings
Far from being a last thought, curtains and blinds can
offer just as much to the design of a room as the furniture.
GABBY DEEMING sheds light on some of the best options
BACK IN FASHION Ruched blinds are shaking off their Eighties associations and making a comeback.
Some rooms require a relaxed edge and these provide that softness. This one is in Sophie from Borderline,
PAUL RAESIDE
76 a metre a simple linen print that looks charming and not at all like a Viennetta. borderlinefabrics.com

DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
KEEP IT SIMPLE
NATURAL HABITAT These raw silk curtains, DOUBLE VISION Atelier AM has created an elegant
designed by Poonam Khanna for B W Architects, look in this Californian bedroom by using thin black
blend well with the wood panelling to create a double curtain poles to layer a sheer and a heavier linen.
barely-there look in this Manhattan townhouse. Triple inverted pinch pleats were chosen for the headers.
A slim header tape, gently gathered, keeps Ikeas Racka collection offers both double and triple
the look simple. bw-architects.com pole combinations, from 18. atelieram.com | ikea.com
If you dont want your curtains to take centre stage, opt for
a plain fabric and have fun with the decorative details
NGOC MINH NGO; SIMON UPTON; TIM BEDDOW; FRANCOIS HALARD
VINTAGE CHARM These antique linen curtains HIGH RISE A bank of floor-to-ceiling windows in this
have an unusual shirred pencil-pleat heading, which house in the West Country has been dressed by designer
is created using shirring tape. The result is a pleasingly Hugh Henry, of Mlinaric, Henry & Zervudachi, in cream
gathered look that is similar to but softer than a linen for a look of understated grandeur. For similar,
plain pencil pleat. Parna is a great source for antique ask for a hand-gathered heading with soft stand-up and
linen, from 60 for a 208 x 126cm sheet. parna.co.uk a length that breaks on the floor. mhzlondon.com

TIME FOR RECESS The owner of this bedroom WALL TO WALL In this Parisian apartment, designer
wanted a moody feel, so designer Suzy Hoodless hung Franois Champsaur chose a sophisticated off-white
grey linen curtains with large pencil pleats from a Belgian linen from Bruder, hung from a continuous
recessed ceiling track. This keeps out the light and is bespoke pole, to dress the tall windows. Grommets
neater than a pole. Try Silent Gliss for track, from large eyelets give them an architectural look and
15.98 for 125cm. suzyhoodless.com | silentgliss.co.uk are economical on fabric. champsaur.com | bruderco.be
The ideal length for curtains can be a contentious issue. If in doubt,

a good rule of thumb is to let the fabric just break on the floor
These simple heading ideas can be

QUICK applied to a hemmed fabric panel,
a linen sheet or a tablecloth to create
TRICKS smart curtains with little or no stitching
Pleating rings,
from 9 each, from
Walcot House.
walcothouse.com
SHARYN CAIRNS; STEPHAN JULLIARD; FRITZ VON DER SCHULENBURG; ALEXANDER JAMES
Stitch on fabric tabs for

PLAIN SAILING Designer Amanda Hornby has a look that is relaxed
toned down these patterned walls with duck-egg blue and sophisticated. The
interlined linen curtains with triple pleat headings, Metal curtain clips, Maya curtain panels
hung from a simple white pole. If you are undecided Anneaux-pince, 15 for 12, from Caravane are similar
from Caravane. caravane.fr to the one shown here
about the amount of fabric falling on the floor, try
slightly baggy trousers as shown. amandahornby.com

P L AY W I T H PAT T E R N
CREWEL TRICK Designer Maria Speake of RUN FOR COVER A fabric-covered track, known as
Retrouvius often uses antique textiles as a starting a lath and fascia, reduces the light that comes through,
point for window dressings; in this instance, the so is effective in bedrooms and on bay windows. Kit
embroidered panel is an early form of crewelwork, Kemp has used Bennison Fabrics Cherry Tree linen,
combined with natural and teal coloured linens to 197 a metre, in this bedroom at the Covent Garden
make a single curtain 6.5 metres long. retrouvius.com Hotel. bennisonfabrics.com | firmdale.com
Curtains are a great way of introducing colour and pattern into

a room, and I love the warmth that fabric offers Kit Kemp
PAUL MASSEY; CAROLYN BARBER; PAUL RAESIDE
LAYER UP A reeded pole houses a concealed track CENTRE STAGE This Deniz linen/cotton from
for a cleaner look. The layered effect of a pinoleum Lee Jofa at G P & J Baker, 115 a metre, is no shrinking
blind, a roman blind and light linen curtains violet, so using a pencil pleat heading works well.
in Lamerton, 105 a metre, from Colefax and Combining the curtains with a roman blind in a small
Fowler, is a great way to pack in textiles without pattern creates a decorated look, but the simple shapes
creating an overcrowded look. colefax.com stop it looking fussy. gpandjbaker.com

COLOURING BOOK
by Iain R Webb
ON SALE NOW
10 ISBN: 978-1840917215
CONCEALED FIXINGS
GATHER TOGETHER The soft gathered pelmet PLAIN PERFECTION In this childrens bedroom
and thick jacquard curtains in this bedroom, by Henri Fitzwilliam-Lay, a fixed and shaped box
designed by Piers Westenholz, are perfect for a pelmet with curtains in a pale blue fabric is a smart
country bedroom. When rooms are not especially choice in both senses of the word; it will not be quickly
high, it looks good if the pelmet goes right up outgrown as children become teenagers and it looks
to the ceiling, as seen here. westenholz.co.uk modern and elegant. henrifitzwilliamlay.com
In bedrooms, people can be particular about keeping the light

out and pelmets are very useful for this Hugh Leslie
SIMON UPTON; SIMON BROWN; PAUL MASSEY; ALEXANDER JAMES
ELEVATED STYLE These Italian strung curtains, NEUTRAL TERRITORY For this pelmet and curtains,
in the bedroom of a Ludlow townhouse designed by designer Hugh Leslie chose a plain textured linen and
Caroline Harrowby, have a goblet-pleated header inset a decorative braid for detail. The central pleat on
design. They are fixed in position at the top and then the pelmet prevents the whole thing from looking too
drawn up and down using a cord. The look is quite flat. A design where the central third of the pelmet is
traditional and very pretty. harrowbydesigns.co.uk longer than the sides also looks good. hughleslie.com

BLIND SPOT
SOFT OPTION In this nineteenth-century Belgian SAY YES TO YELLOW There are many reasons why
farmhouse, designer Bernard De Clerck has used soft this silk taffeta blind is so successful in this Mayfair flat.
roman blinds in unlined white linen for a relaxed and The yellow adds punch to the room, and designer Chester
pretty look in a sitting room, where keeping out the light Jones points out that the unlined fabric allows light
is not a priority. LinenMe sells similar fabric, from to filter through for warmth during the day, yet is
14.99 a metre. bernarddeclerck.be | linenme.com sufficiently opaque for privacy at night. chesterjones.com
Blinds use a fraction of the fabric needed for curtains, but the variety of
styles and textiles available means they dont have to fall short on impact
For more ideas

for curtains and
blinds, visit
houseandgarden.
co.uk/window
dressings
JEAN-FRANCOIS JAUSSAUD; PAUL MASSEY; SIMON UPTON
PERFECT PAIR Anne-Marie Midy and Jorge Almada ROLL UP This blind is an unstiffened roller in Wheat
of Casamidy chose Jim Thompsons cotton Gemstone Ears and Scrolls Border, 580 a metre, an embroidered
fabric, 72 a metre, to create a pair of jewel-like lined cotton panel from Chelsea Textiles. It is particularly
roman blinds in their Brussels house. Investing in a pretty with the light coming through, which is good for
statement fabric means that the rest of the room can a bathroom, says designer Emma Burns of Sybil Colefax
bask in simplicity. casamidy.com | jimthompson.com & John Fowler. chelseatextiles.com | sibylcolefax.com

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DECORATING | ADVICE
Rita in her bedroom with

pillowcases from D Porthault and
the Monogrammed Linen Shop
Rita
Notes
RITA KONIG recommends
choosing bed linen
and bedding with care
PHOTOGRAPH CRAIG FORDHAM
here are a handful of things
T that are really worth buying

in the sales and one of them is
bed linen. I have been buying
linen for many years and
most of it while it was on sale;
I would never have been able to acquire such
a good collection otherwise.
Although I am a total sheet snob, I have
never been terribly interested in thread
counts but more about how things feel.
Getting into bed at the end of the day is made
so much better if you are climbing between
really soft, crisp sheets. If you are looking for
the best, in my opinion, the Italians make
the finest linens. Most of mine are from the
Monogrammed Linen Shop (monogrammed
linenshop.com), which sells fantastic sets
of percale sheets, linens by D Porthault
(dporthaultparis.com), and beautiful things
from France and Italy.
D Porthault is something of an obsession
for me, one that my husband has sadly
curbed men do look slightly silly in a bed made up in pink There are two schools of thought on pillows. I have always been
hearts. Since I have rarely been able to afford an entire bed of a standard and a square person, simply because I like leaning
D Porthault, I have always been a great advocate of combining back and having the support of a square pillow. But two standard
its pillowcases with plain white percale sheets from companies pillows is probably a neater look. One thing thats certain is it is
such as The White House (thewhitehouselinen.co.uk). I actually worth spending the most that you can on pillows. I dont think
think this is a better look. I often buy the you really want anything other than the soft-
pillowcases in sales and occasionally I have I like leaning back est white Hungarian goose down. Basically
found sets on eBay. At the time of writing this, and having the support Siberian, Polish or any of those chilly Eastern
eBay has divine baby pillowcases in a violet European places are good.
of a square pillow
print on linen and pink clovers in percale that, The other thing that I like doing with crisp
on this small size of pillowcase, would be relatively easy to get past linen is having a vintage quilt or Welsh blanket on the bed.
a beady-eyed husband. D Porthault now has a concession at Katharine Pole (katharinepole.com) always has beautiful vintage
Harrods (harrods.com), which is not a bad place to head. French quilts and Guinevere Antiques (guinevere.co.uk) in the
If sending sheets to the laundry isnt your thing, companies like Kings Road has an entire room at the back dedicated to vintage
Society Limonta (societylimonta.com) and Libeco (libeco.com) linens and quilts, which are perfect for mixing in if you dont like it
are good options. They make beautiful sheets in heavy linen that all looking too neat and tidy. The Conran Shop has beautiful vintage
doesnt need ironing. It is a fashionable look that is all over Welsh blankets from Blodwen (blodwen.com). The Decorative
STYLING: ARTA GHANBARI
Pinterest; I do love that Belgium-meets-Montauk look of Antiques & Textiles Fair at Battersea Park (January 1924) is also
bone-white crumpled linen on a low bed. The Conran Shop a good place for this sort of thing. Katharine Pole has a stand and
(conranshop.co.uk) also sells a version of it, as does Cologne & I have bought beautiful quilts from her at the fair in the past. You
Cotton (cologneandcotton.com). can also visit her stand every Friday at Portobello Road Market

SPECIALIST
COPPER & SILK

ROSE DAHLSEN meets Daniel Fosbery, the young
entrepreneur and designer behind a London company that
creates traditional, handmade lampshade and lighting designs
PHOTOGRAPHS CHRIS TERRY
I think of this place as a kitchen, says either douppion, shantung or satin silk
Daniel Fosbery of the 6,500-square-metre imported from India, or linen from Ireland
workshop of his lampshade- and lighting- are stretched over the frames, before
design company, Copper & Silk. The being cut, hand-stitched, puckered and
orders come in, the ingredients are here pinned into a box, gathered, knife or loosely
and each department knows more than I do gathered pleat style.
about how to make their individual part. Removed from the ground-floor bustle in a
Tucked into the corner of a nondescript room overlooking the workshop is a quieter
trading estate in north-west London, the zone where an unfinished Oast ceiling light
exterior offers little clue to the scope of is splayed on a work bench. Its finished form
ingredients or throng of activity inside: comprised of up to 120 pieces, including
baskets stashed with copper rings line the 117 struts can be seen in Daniels own
walls; rolls of coloured silks jostle for space on dining room. In its partially complete state,
shelves; and clusters of lampshade skeletons a dozen segments of bowed birch branch
pave the floor. While Daniel masterminds out like spiders legs. Its like a jigsaw,
the designs, he relies on a team of 25 Daniel says with a smile. He also uses this
craftspeople to bring the elements together. space for applying the finishing touches,
In 2007, two years after finishing his from distressing metal to stains and paints
degree in contemporary furniture design his favourite part of the process.
at the then Buckinghamshire Chilterns Although the wood-working and glass-
University, Daniel landed a job at a prest- working of the lamp structures are done
igious lighting company. He looked after elsewhere in the UK, Daniel remains closely
its bespoke projects until 2010, when he informed about the method. Ive got first-
decided to set up on his own at the age of 26. hand experience with a lot of processes and
Unlike furniture, lighting had a magical Im a bit of a geek about the whole thing.
electrical element, that fourth dimension Im always pulling things apart as I have to
that captivated him. know how everything is made, he says.
The building has been a lampshade fac- He also brings in fresh ideas through
tory for 30 years the original company collaborations: textile designer Ptolemy
now shares the site with Copper & Silk. The Manns ikat prints and Emily Humphreys
staff are employed by both, and some have whimsical animal and flower designs have
been hand-crafting lampshades here for 15 adorned shades. Copper & Silk also works
years. Three metalworkers rotate between with lighting retailers and interior designers
three machines to spot-weld the ring com- on bespoke projects, such as creating solid-
ponents onto copper-coated wire, before brass chandeliers for Manolo Blahniks store
powder-coating the frame. A neighbouring in Harrods. Its website allows customers
table is used for laminating fabric onto to create over 70,000 lampshade combina-
card for a smooth finish. tions by selecting the shape, finish, size,
As it is carried into the adjacent room, an fabric, lining and fitting, before sending
unpinned crimson slice of silk floats from the order to the factory to be made. Daniel
its frame like a floundering jellyfish. Here, admits that his favourite designs are always
the soft shades (in fabric rather than card) the new ones, because I love the challenge
are made Copper & Silk remains one of that each project brings. This insatiable
only a few companies making them. The quest for the new, blended with years of
clangour of copper welding is replaced with heritage, is a formula that should see this
the gentle whirr of sewing machines under- kitchen create for years to come
neath soft chattering as the seamstresses
pleat with precision. Swatches of fabric Copper & Silk: copperandsilk.com
THIS PAGE FROM TOP Daniel discusses a printed lace graphic with a member of the team. Tucking douppion
silk into a frame. Ptolemy Manns ikat design being pulled into pleats. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
A Taza lamp base. Stretching satin silk. Fixing a birch arm on the Oast pendant. Templates for card shades.
Empire-shade frames. A Manhattan lamp. Candle French Drum shades. Copper fittings. Daniel with frames

DECORATING | PROFILE
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Sunshine
state
of mind
As the executive director of Design Miami, RODMAN
PRIMACK is playing a key role in the transformation of
a city once more associated with sun-worshippers and
senior citizens into an international centre of design and art
TEXT DAVID NICHOLLS | PHOTOGRAPHS MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE
Rodman Primack (on right) and his

husband Rudy Weissenberg at the Cape
Florida Light in Miami-Dade County

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT Rodman with Tiffany Chestler, director of cultural programming
at Dacra for the Miami Design District (a sign for which is pictured top centre), in front of the
Flys Eye Dome structure, designed by Buckminster Fuller (also bottom right). Discussing
Chromatropic, a new print created in collaboration with Pierre Frey for Design Miami/Basel 2015,
with Craig Robins, co-owner of Design Miami. Miami Design District is famed for its street art

LIFESTYLE
A s the sun prepares to

set over Key Biscayne in
Miami, Rodman Primack
leads the way towards a
local landmark: a nineteenth-century lighthouse
which, like many of the Sunshine States residents of a
certain age, is remarkably well preserved. The Cape
Florida Light is an icon of Miami-Dade County, and
like the art deco buildings in ice-cream shades that
line the tourist-laden Ocean Drive, it has long played
a role in how the world views and visits Miami.
But Rodman, the executive director of the Design
Miami fair, is at the forefront of a movement that is
broadening the worlds perception of the Florida city.
Founded in 2005, Design Miami is staged twice
a year each June in Switzerland as Design Miami
Basel, and in Miami itself each December. For the
dealers and designers that take part, it is a chance
to sell to a high concentration of the fabulously
wealthy. For the latter, its an opportunity to add
to their collections in a sun-drenched atmosphere
fizzing with excitement and Perrier-Jout. Last year,
THIS PICTURE Lunch at The
Design Miami attracted nearly 36,000 visitors
Cypress Room in Miami Design
and included exhibitions involving the likes of archi-
District with Ximena Caminos,
tects Daniel Libeskind and Peter Marino, and French
executive creative director of the
fashion brand Louis Vuitton.
Faena Group of hotels. BELOW Inside
Rodman joined Design Miami in early 2014 after
Miami Design Districts headquarters
serving as chairman of the London auction house
Phillips de Pury. Prior to that, he was director of the
Gagosian Gallery in Beverly Hills. There was a stint
at Christies, too, as head specialist of Latin American art, and television producer who now works in his familys commodity
a period working under Peter Marino in New York. Somehow, businesses, as well as curating exhibitions, is predominantly
between all of this, he also built up a successful interior-design based in his native Guatemala City. And they are no strangers
practice and textiles business, which he continues to run out of to the two-and-a-half-hour flight between the two cities.
New York. You could say all of this was always on the cards for Rodman and Rudys home when they touch down in Miami is
a little boy in California who, at the age of eight, suggested to a Thirties bungalow on one of Biscayne Bays tiny Venetian
his parents that he would rather like to have a subscription to Islands. Miami is in the middle of a construction boom, and this
Architectural Digest. Even at that is apparent even here as older houses are gradually
age, I was so driven by a desire to have giving way to plus-size replacements. Over the past
life look like this, he says. few years, the property market has gone crazy,
A life like this involves a lot of with modest, normal houses being remodelled into
travel. Over the past five weeks, Ive McMansions, Rodman laments. Super charming
been to Los Angeles, San Francisco, places like this are few and far between these days.
Zurich, London, Barcelona, Paris, He is right: their house is charming. When they
New York and Milan, Rodman says, bought it in 2009, they focused on redecorating
uncertain if hes missed a city or two. rather than remodelling, although they did replace
This is all part of his job: meeting the swimming pool once they had cleared away
with designers and gallerists and the collection of shopping trollies amassed by the
spreading the word about Design eccentric previous owner in the garden.
Miami. A few days after my visit, hes Given who lives here now, it is no surprise to
off to Hong Kong and Shanghai. discover that the two-bedroom house has been deco-
As for Rodmans home, the very rated with considerable flair. The colours sing
idea of it is similarly peripatetic. His and patterns abound: stripes and zigzags, florals,
husband Rudy Weissenberg, a former geometrics and ethnic prints.

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT One of two sitting rooms
in Rodman and Rudys house. The couple in the garden. A
photograph by Luis Gonzlez Palma in their bedroom. The
Florida room, with a hippo-shape footstool by Renate Mller.
One of Rodmans fabric designs lines a wall of their bedroom.
OPPOSITE Bold colours and prints enliven the sitting room

LIFESTYLE
In the main bedroom, the walls are covered in one of Rodmans
fabric designs, based on historic Japanese woodblock prints.
And there is no shortage of eye-catching pieces of art and furni-
ture from the cartoonish Michele de Lucchi table in the dining
area to a hippo-shape footstool by Renate Mller in what is
known as the Florida room overlooking the pool. This latter
space has windows on three sides, although two of these have
been covered by enormous cardboard installations by the con-
temporary Constructivist artist Florian Baudrexel. Theres too
much light in Miami, Rodman says, explaining the artworks
positioning. While this is a somewhat difficult concept to grasp
for someone who lives in London, I take him at his word.
The couple entertain regularly and, although it is hard to
fathom how, they manage to make space every December for
a party for more than 100 guests. By their own admission,
their social and professional lives tend to blur. Rodman has
dinners to host and openings to attend most evenings of the
week: Work is completely integrated into life. There isnt the
feeling of leaving at 6pm and being done.
A short drive away and nestled between the arty Wynwood
neighbourhood and Little Haiti is the Miami Design District 18
blocks of formerly largely unused warehouses and industrial
facilities that, over the past 15 years, have been transformed into
an area rich in galleries, smart restaurants and international
boutiques. It has become a new destination in the city and, for
many, it has made a destination of the city itself. Responsible for
this is Craig Robins, who co-owns the Miami Design District and is
CEO of the property development company Dacra. Additionally,
as co-owner of Design Miami, Craig is Rodmans boss.
While the majority of Design Miami is held in Miami Beach,
the Design District also takes part, with resident businesses
staging exhibitions, pop-up shops taking over still-vacant spaces
and outdoor installations set up in public areas. Rodmans
Design Miami office is based within the districts impressive
headquarters, and it is from here that he devises and executes his
plans for the fair: Its a job that is really aggregating my interests.
He clearly loves it. When I worked in art, 90 per cent of my con-
versations were business discussions, and its the opposite in the
design world. The dealers I work with arent here to be masters
of the universe or to become the next Larry Gagosian. It is a
smaller market and its a time of transition, so I find that exciting.
Hes a well-known face in the design district, and from the hellos
and friendly nods of recognition that he receives as we walk
around some of his favourite spots, it is obvious he is a popular
one, too. Perhaps that is because the locals recognise Rodmans
supporting role in steering Miami through its own transition to
being a city of greater twenty-first-century relevance, and one
that is now influencing design and art on an international level.
You get a sense that it is a city where things are really happening
and where the dreams of an eight-year-old boy who has traversed
the world to get here seem to have come true
Design Miami: designmiami.com
THIS PAGE FROM TOP Rodman at the home of Nina Johnson-Milewski,

of Gallery Diet, with the designer Emmett Moore, whom Nina represents.
Outside Prez Art Museum Miami with Leann Standish, who is its acting
director. Visiting the pop-up gallery Design Pub, with its curator, Jessica
Acosta-Rubio. OPPOSITE Rodman and Rudy having lunch with friends
at the home of Andrea Noboa, who is pictured at the top left of the table

LIFESTYLE
Rodman is a well-known face in the design

district and a popular one. Perhaps because
locals recognise his role in steering Miami
into a city of twenty-first-century relevance
Quentin Blake
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EDIT
Inspirational INTERIORS, beautiful GARDENS,
fascinating people, compelling stories
PAG E
88
A display of ceramics
from the Muse des Arts
Dcoratifs in Paris and
Pe n k r i d g e C e r a m i c s i n
the study of a G eorgian
house in south London
PAUL MASSEY

time for
CHANGE

After 10 years in this house in west London, the owners
enlisted the help of designer and architect Rabih Hage
to reconfigure the layout and redecorate the rooms
to reflect changes in their needs and aesthetic sensibility
TEXT LUCIA VAN DER POST | PHOTOGRAPHS SHARYN CAIRNS | LOCATIONS EDITOR DAVID NICHOLLS
Rabih kept to a neutral palette in the first-

floor drawing room and created focal points
with a photograph by Benjamin Faga of the
Arethusa Fountain in Londons Bushy Park
and a brass table by the Haas Brothers

hen the owners of this grand For Rabih, it was a wonderful project. The house
late-nineteenth-century house, was one of the few in the square that had not been
situated in a west London square, divided up into flats. It has large, airy rooms, many
moved in some 10 years or so ago, complete with original cornicing and chimneypieces,
they did little more than give it a which were both challenging and inspiring due to their
decorative overhaul. A decade on scale. But it needed a complete rethink to make it work.
and much in their lives had changed. They now have a They were lucky that, although the house already
young child, and the five children from their first had a lower ground floor, they were able to get
marriages have grown up and need more autonomous permission to build another floor below that. This
spaces during their frequent visits home. meant that in the new basement, Rabih could provide
Aesthetically, too, they had moved on. It was not for the familys leisure activities, with a temperature-
just that the house had grown slightly shabby in the controlled wine cellar, a gym, a spa area, a bar and
intervening years, but the owners wanted a look that a cinema with seating for eight.
was cleaner, less ornate and less decorative. They had At the front of the house, on the lower ground floor,
heard of the work of architect and interior designer which has private direct access from the street, Rabih
Rabih Hage, and they liked the fact that he combined created a self-contained flat with its own small
the two disciplines. As an architect, he could rethink kitchen for the wifes grown-up son. This way he can
the way the house worked and reconfigure its spaces. come and go as he pleases without disturbing the rest
As an interior designer, he could give the interiors a of the house. Behind this, there is a room for flower
classic, timeless feel. The owners were also confident arranging and, at the back, leading out onto the
that his contacts with artisans and craftsmen could garden, an informal sitting room ideal for watching
provide the essential touches of magic. television, reading and playing games.
BOTH PAGES Rabih had the original cornicing and plasterwork in the drawing room restored, and chose gold silk curtains
from Jim Thompson to go with the hessian-effect walls hand painted by Matthew Croxford. Two Massimosistema sofas
from Poltrona Frau positioned on either side of the chimneypiece anchor the room, while a pair of Queen Anne chairs
reupholstered in Romeo & Giulietta purple velvet from Dedar creates a more intimate sitting area by the window (opposite)

Meanwhile, Rabih had decided the ground floor preparation, behind which is ample storage for all
needed to be completely rethought. The clients loved the kitchen paraphernalia.
the grandeur of the entrance hall and wanted marble The dining room has several functions. It can be a
floors, so Rabih tracked some down in a gentle neutral grand setting for entertaining a quirky light fitting
tone, teamed it with a pale linen paper and, as an made from metal threads by Terzani hangs over the
alternative to traditional crystal chandeliers, chose Victorian table, bought from The Furniture Cave on
two large and lovely papier mch ones by Studio the Kings Road 15 years ago, and theres a made-to-
Job for Moooi. Though imposing in size, they add a measure Piet Hein Eek sideboard. By the window,
light and slightly subversive touch, which does there is a smaller table for intimate dinners or tea for
nothing to affect the grandeur, but stops it being too two, as well as seating with views out over the garden.
conventionally opulent, says Rabih. Up on the first floor is the large and beautiful
He also decided to reverse the rooms on the ground drawing room. Rabih did little to the structure, and
floor, moving the kitchen from the back to the front focused on repairing the plasterwork and the cornic-
and the dining room to the back. I thought it would ing, reinstating the dado, smoothing out the walls and
be much nicer for the kitchen to face south over the putting in an elegant oak floor in a slightly unusual
square, so I put a small table by the front window herringbone pattern the wooden blocks lie at 60
where they can have family breakfasts, he explains. degrees instead of the more usual 45 degrees.
Since the family is quite large and they do a lot of He kept the colour scheme calm and fairly neutral
entertaining, there is a small, professionally equipped with sand-coloured hessian-effect walls hand painted
area at the back of the kitchen where food can be by Matthew Croxford of Croxford and Saunders not
prepared away from the family. An Ingo Maurer gold- only to provide a tranquil background to the art and
leaf ceiling light hangs over the main area for food artefacts, but also because, as Rabih explains, the
THIS PAGE The study has bespoke built-in shelves that hold the owners book collection and artefacts; the door leads to
the landing. OPPOSITE ANTICLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT In the kitchen, the main cooking area has a wall of concealed
storage in grey-stained oak. Rabih positioned the table by the bay window to allow views over the leafy square (also bottom
left). Striped Bucket chairs, designed by Rabih, and an antique Japanese silk screen add colour and texture in the dining room

wife is a sophisticated and elegant woman with wall leading up to the second floor is a vast series
a great wardrobe and I wanted her to be able to depicting the Chinese zodiac by Bai Yiluo.
shine and not be overpowered by too much colour Across the landing, the study has bespoke shelving
and decoration. to display not only the large number of books the
The room is anchored by two sofas from Poltrona couple have collected, but also the Chinese artefacts
Frau and a bespoke rug by Denis Colomb, which was and Danish blue-and-white porcelain that they own.
made in Nepal. The owners already had some beautiful On the second floor, the husband and wife have a
pictures and artefacts mostly from the husbands large and airy bedroom, an en suite bathroom and
time in the Far East which needed to be properly generous dressing areas, as well as a study for the
displayed. Though the first impression is one of great wife. The third floor has three bedrooms, all en suite,
calm and tranquillity, wherever one looks there are one for their young daughter and one for their older
visual delights: antique Chinese pots, vintage lights, daughter, as well as another for guests. Above it all
gold silk curtains, a classic round rosewood table is a vast and gorgeous roof garden with decking, a
from Denmark, Queen Anne chairs reupholstered in barbecue and enough space to have a great party.
purple velvet, a chandelier by Jeff Zimmerman and a The result is a house that provides an elegant yet
tall spun floor lamp by Anton Alvarez. The neutral comfortable and practical background to the busy
background here is perfect for showcasing the and varied lives of its owners and their large family.
artwork in particular there is Diana/Arethusa As Rabih puts it, My work is about resolving the
Fountain, an arresting large-scale light-box photo- tensions between beauty and comfort. Here they are
graphic work by Ben Faga, a vertical picture of resolved quite beautifully
womens feet by Marilyn Minter and a square white
work on paper by Jessica Rankin, while outside on the Rabih Hage: 020-7823 8288; rabih-hage.com
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Animal Destiny by Bai Yiluo, portraying the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac, is
displayed on the wall of the stairs to the second floor. A Foster Soft chair and footstool from Meridiani in the main bedroom.
The en suite bathroom is clad in Black Wood marble with a contrasting bespoke Bleu de Savoie marble vanity designed
by Rabih. The back garden. THIS PAGE The rooftop garden has iroko decking, a Jacuzzi and plenty of entertaining space

The walls of the sitting room are hung with
a pale grey grasscloth, which provides a
neutral background for the brightly coloured
upholstery, including the flame-coloured
ottoman, trimmed with Grand Galon Athenee
from Clarence House at Turnell & Gigon, and
the mint-green armchair from Pentreath & Hall

PERSONAL
PROJECT
For architectural and interior designer Ben Pentreath, deciding

how to decorate his own flat in Bloomsbury was more of a challenge
than designing for a client, but the result is a welcoming space that
combines traditional elements with modern and individual touches
TEXT CAROLINE CLIFTON-MOGG | PHOTOGRAPHS JAKE CURTIS | LOCATIONS EDITOR LIZ ELLIOT
en Pentreath the architectural and interior designer
and shopkeeper is very much a designer for today.
Young, relaxed and funny, he has an innate, almost
intuitive understanding of how people want to live
now. His look is understated and comfortable, yet
informed and smart perfectly encapsulated in the
Bloomsbury flat where he lives with his husband, Charlie McCormick.
Pentreath Central is on the top floor of a peaceful Georgian building
belonging to the Art Workers Guild. The flat is light and bright an ideal Sun-
day morning space where you really can smell the coffee, a place that requires
no huge effort on the part of the viewer to appreciate its manifest charms.
Ben had known the building for some years and knew that the flat was in
need of renovation, so he suggested to the Art Workers Guild that, in return
for a rent-free period, he finance the cost of the refurbishment. The arrange-
ment suited everyone. As he points out, The worst thing you can do is to move
into a flat that has just been redone by the landlord; the odds are always that
you will hate everything thats been done and have to start all over again.
Once the basic repair work was done, the more nebulous task of deciding
how to decorate and furnish began. It was not, at first sight, an easy space: FROM TOP Bright cushions, including a cross design from
from the main staircase, a small flight of stairs inside the front door leads up Lindell & Co, decorate the sofa. A corridor leads to the
to a landing, both now densely hung with pictures and prints. On one side is a bedrooms and bathroom. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM
small, slick galley kitchen, and on the other is the sitting room, which, as Ben TOP LEFT A Fornasetti chest is in a corner of the sitting
says, is actually the one really nice room. It looks out over the square and trees room. The entrance to the flat is through a white door
and is very light. The rest of the space is much as you might expect: small and onto the stairway. A Marianna Kennedy lamp sits on
basically quite ordinary. In other words, ripe for decoration. a chest of drawers in the corridor. The compact kitchen

But decorating your own flat is not at all the same as doing it for someone
else. The difference between doing a scheme for a client, when you have to
plan everything in advance with no room for trial and error, and doing it for
oneself is that, when it is your own, you take time sometimes a lot of time
to get it right, making existing pieces fit in and looking for others quite
slowly. So he started with the easiest part first: the sitting room, which he
promptly painted white. My philosophy with walls is to start off light, live with
them, pin up different colours and, if you can, wait for a winter to pass before
you finally decide what to cover them with.
By the following spring, the walls were hung in a pale grey grasscloth. It
makes a subtle background for the furniture, which is a clever mix of periods,
such as a Regency sideboard and mid-twentieth-century pieces including a
Hans J Wegner chair and a favourite Fornasetti Palladiana chest, bought
from Themes & Variations gallery. The room is anchored, at one end, by a wall
of prints of John Rocques eighteenth-century map of the cities of London and
Westminster and, in the centre, an oversize flame-coloured ottoman. Good
design new and old will always work together, Ben says.
OPPOSITE In the spare room, which leads out to a
From the sitting room, a dark and potentially dull corridor leads to the bed-
small terrace, Ben has used several pieces of traditional
rooms and bathroom beyond. But, far from being dull, the corridor is covered
brown furniture. THIS PAGE FROM ABOVE Soanes
from ceiling to skirting with prints, plaster reliefs and books, making it a
delicate Seaweed Lace wallpaper contrasts with
space to enjoy rather than a walkway to hurry through. Both the bathroom the bold blanket in the main bedroom. A collection of
and the two bedrooms are papered. As he explains, I like using wallpaper monochrome prints chime with the grisaille wallpaper,
because I love the layers of pattern and colour that it brings Richmond Park from Zoffany, in the bathroom
to a room. In the tiny bathroom is overscaled grisaille
foliage dressed with monochrome prints; one bedroom
has delicate Seaweed Lace from Soane and the other the
timeless Willow Boughs by William Morris, one of Bens
favourite designers. Timelessness interests me; its impor-
tant in both architecture and decoration. I think about
I think about longevity

and what is not completely
current. Nothing
dates faster than fashion
longevity and am interested in looking outside what is

completely current. Jokey animal heads on the walls are not
my thing; nothing dates faster than fashion.
Thus, the flat is contemporary, but also quite traditional.
Both styles are equally valid simultaneously, but whereas
architecture has more rules, more right and wrong, decor-
ation is more fluid. Things that shouldnt work do; even
if something jars, it can unexpectedly feel just right. Archi-
tecture, of course, is there for ever, but decoration can come
83
and go. Nonetheless, my favourite approach is to mix things
that will endure. Which is, in essence, a pretty intelligent
and certainly timeless philosophy for design
Ben Pentreath: 020-7430 2424; benpentreath.com

Pentreath & Hall: 020-7430 2526; pentreath-hall.com

pole positioning
On the Caribbean island of Mustique, interior designer Veere Grenney has
redesigned a bamboo house that is a study in neutrals and natural materials,
set off by the green of the palms outside and the glorious blue of the ocean
TEXT ELFREDA POWNALL | PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID OLIVER
THIS PAGE Perched on a hill, the house and garden make the most of the islands lush vegetation, with a stairway that leads down to the outdoor dining area
by Gelliceaux Bay beach. OPPOSITE In the main building, the 15-metre-long, open-plan sitting and dining room is decorated in similar neutral hues to the bamboo

ustique, in the Saint windows are stored in cupboards for when bad
M
Vincent and the weather threatens. The room faces west and gets
Grenadines group of beautiful afternoon light and a grandstand view of
Caribbean islands, is the daily extravaganza of the Caribbean sunset.
just 2.2 square miles, The bamboo, a traditional building material in the
yet it exerts a fasci- Grenadines, came from nearby Saint Vincent, where
nation far beyond its it is always harvested when the moon is on the wane.
size. The 3rd Baron The belief is that termites quickly devour any bamboo
Glenconner, Colin cut when the sap is rising, even once the wood is cured.
Tennant, who bought The team then went in search of vintage bamboo
the island in 1958 for 45,000, had hoped to grow furniture and bought it in container loads, mostly
cotton there. When that plan failed, he decided to from Los Angeles and Miami, and often through
make it into an exclusive holiday setting for his friends 1stdibs. The coffee tables and side cabinets in
and divided the island into 120 plots. In 1960, in a the great room were designed by Veere Grenney
brilliant PR coup, he gave the first 10-acre site to his Associates and made by Lincoln Cato, and Soane
friend Princess Margaret. Her home, Les Jolies Eaux, made replicas of one of the original shell sconces for
was decorated in a cosy, Home Counties Peter Jones the walls. Rush matting was laid on the sustainable
style, but since then, the island has attracted the mega sapele wood floors and Veere asked Raoul Textiles to
rich, some of whom look on a plot as their chance to recolour its huge palm-leaf design Exoticus in
build a fantasy home in the shape of a Roman palazzo, bamboo shades for the sofa covers.
a Japanese temple or a high-tech, futuristic box. The main bedroom suite in a side pavilion continues
Interior designer Veere Grenney knows Mustique the bamboo theme. Nothing is allowed to jar with the
well, and had already designed half a dozen homes for warm, woody atmosphere even the bathrooms have
this client before he bought one of the islands most vintage copper bathtubs with black and weathered-
unusual houses in 2007. Veere describes it as a beach bronze taps. We didnt want that white porcelain
folly, a little Robinson Crusoe bamboo paradise. The glare, says Veere. The blue of the sky and sea and the
original house had been built in the Seventies by the vivid green of the lush vegetation are the only colours
Swedish architect Arne Hasselqvist for the American allowed. Plants surround a new space down at sea
advertising dynamo Mary Wells Lawrence and her level, too, where there is an outdoor covered dining
airline president husband Harding Lawrence. They area with a small kitchen and shower, and a perfect
used the place almost as a bathing hut for their vast spot for sunbathing. From here, you can dive or flop
home at the top of the island. straight into the blue water of Gelliceaux Bay beach.
When Veere and his team first encountered the It is a favourite spot for the owner. Although he is
house in 2008, a tropical storm had ripped off some the proprietor of the Savile Row tailor Huntsman, he
of the roofing and caused a cliff fall below the house. prefers to entertain here in bare feet and shorts. You
They walked into the main building to discover the can have 30 people for lunch on the water and they
original Serge Roche standard lamps encrusted with can go straight from the dining table to the sea its
debris and dust, the shell wall lights wrecked and the like your own private gigantic salt-water swimming
bamboo wallcovering looking shabby. With the help pool, he says. Houses with direct access to an empty
of architect Alain Bouvier of ABA, Veere stripped white-sand beach are rare, even in Mustique. He loves
everything back to its bones, expanded the living the spare aesthetic of the bamboo, too. It is not over-
space, installed a new larger kitchen and reconfig- whelming, just a very simple and pure design, not
ured many of the rooms. trying to impress, nestled in the leaves, just hanging
The main building two separate side pavilions on the cliff. Its just unique, he says. The unassuming
house the main bedroom, spare rooms and childrens aspect of Mustique is what first attracted him to the
rooms includes the great room, a magnificent living island. There are no big shops, no jet skis, no sun
space at the top of the house. At 15 metres long, it is loungers on the beach. Its in many ways the most
a combined sitting and dining area, its walls and simple place with the most sophisticated people
pitched ceiling completely re-clad in 10cm-diameter
cured bamboo stalks. It is open to the elements on Veere Grenney Associates: 020-7351 7170;
four sides, so sea breezes keep it cool, although storm veeregrenney.com | ABA: 020-7928 1288
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The outdoor dining area has a picnic-style table and benches made from cast concrete. Below
the sitting and dining room is the TV room, in which the walls and ceiling are clad in the same cured bamboo from Saint Vincent.
A vintage copper free-standing tub from The Water Monopoly sits in a bathroom. The main bedroom, in a pavilion, has a bed from Soane

celebrating a
GOLDEN
AG E
As specialists in reviving vintage
pieces, gilder Clare Mosley and
her husband Mark Bicknell had the
ideal skills to restore a ravaged
Georgian house in south London
TEXT LIZ ELLIOT | PHOTOGRAPHS PAUL MASSEY
he gilder Clare Mosley and her
T husband Mark Bicknell, who

works in publishing, spent years
living in Paris before they
bought their eighteenth-century house
in south London in 1993. It was a mort-
gage repossession at the tail end of the
recession and the previous owner had
The sitting room, simply put the keys through the letterbox
on the raised and walked away.
ground floor, It had last been modernised in the
extends from the Seventies, says Clare. All five chimney-
front of the house pieces had been removed and the fire-
to the back. The
places boarded up, the lower ground floor
cream armchair
had been made into a separate flat and
is from Howe on
the staircase torn out so that there was
Pimlico Road and
no access to the rest of the house. It was
the blue footstool
altogether pretty seedy and, although
is from Sean
Cooper Sofas; the
the foundations and roof were fine, all
gilded lamp on the the plumbing and electricity had to be
occasional table redone. During the eight months it took
and the walnut- to make the house reasonably habitable,
framed mirror they camped in one room and the builders
that hangs over worked around them. However, even this
the chimneypiece safeguard did not protect them from a
are examples few of the traditional building disasters.
of Clares work Having gone away for two days, Clare and

Chimneypieces
of the same period
as the house were
truffle-hunted
from the backyards
of various dealers
Mark returned to find that the disassem-

bled bed a French half-tester that they
had stored in what was to be a bedroom
had been cut up and thrown out of the
window and into a waiting skip below.
The staircase down to the lower ground
floor was reinstated thankfully, the
other original staircases were intact and
panelling was introduced into what is now
a jewel-like lower-ground-floor dining
room. All the original sash windows were OPPOSITE
found to have the original sliding sash CLOCKWISE
shutters that had been sealed up and they FROM TOP LEFT
are now once again in working order The panelling in
throughout the house. Chimneypieces the dining room
were truffle-hunted from the backyards has been painted
of various dealers in north London, since in a grey shade
they were very particular that these from Papers and
should be of the same period as the house. Paints (also top
The one in the dining room is a little right). A dining
older, says Mark, but the other four area adjoins the
and their register grates are as much in kitchen, with a
keeping as we could manage. bench for extra
The couple have two children who are seating covered
both now at university, and this feels very in a fabric from
Lewis & Wood and
much a family home, coloured by Clare
wall lights from
and Marks shared love of fabric and
Original BTC. The
period design. On the raised ground
oak units are by
floor, a hall leads from the front door to a
Nigel Hall. THIS
casual sitting room that extends from the
PAGE The first-
front of the house to the back. The book- floor drawing
cases, based on an original Georgian room is furnished
design, were made by cabinet maker with a sofa in
Nigel Hall, who also installed the bespoke Zanzibar from
lower-ground-floor kitchen. Here, as in Bennison (top) and
the rest of the house, there are examples antique French
of Clares beautiful work: the walnut- armchairs in blue
framed mantle mirror, a number of and purple velvet
verre glomis lamps of differing designs, from Lewis &
and gilded curtain poles and clocks. Wood (bottom)

Clares artistry and
skill is complemented
by Marks ability
to see the potential
in vintage finds
that have been
discarded by others
This last example is a good illustration

of how Clare and Mark collaborate her
artistry and skill is complemented by his
ability to see the potential in vintage finds
that have been discarded by others. Mark
found an eighteenth-century clock in
need of restoration at a market; then he
and Clare tracked down bronze workers,
an enamel-dial maker and glassmakers
to help restore it. They decided to repro-
duce the clocks themselves, so Mark went
to Switzerland and located a movement
maker. Over the next eight or so years,
they made and sold over 100 clocks, made
from materials such as spun copper and
coloured enamel.
A narrow staircase runs along the back
of the house, giving the sitting room a THIS PAGE
gracious width, which is repeated in the FROM TOP The
drawing room one floor up. On the second bathroom has
floor is Clare and Marks bedroom and a wall of verre
the main bathroom, featuring a whole glomis from
wall of glomis mirrored glass, which Clares studio,
she produces or restores for designers and and is furnished
private clients. At the top of the house are with an antique
dressing table and
another three bedrooms.
small sofa bought
Clare, who trained at the renowned
at a flea market
frame makers Arnold Wiggins & Sons in
and covered in
St Jamess, now has a studio at the end
a fabric from
of the garden. Many of her pieces had
Claremont. In the
their origin in objects gathered on trips to main bedroom,
Parisian flea markets and auctions. And, a clock by Clare
together, Clare and Mark have created hangs on a
a house that is an amalgamation of two trumeau mirror
creative tastes, which happily coincide. above a Thirties
The result is an interior rich in history chest of drawers.
and comfort OPPOSITE The
couple bought
Clare Mosley Gilding: 020-7708 3123; this half-tester
claremosley.com bed in Paris

The K NOW L E D G E
1
1
time for
PERSONAL
PROJECT
CHANGE
After 10 years in this house in west London, the owners
enlisted the help of designer and architect Rabih Hage
to reconfigure the layout and redecorate the rooms
to reflect changes in their needs and aesthetic sensibility
3
3 For architectural and interior designer Ben Pentreath, deciding
how to decorate his own flat in Bloomsbury was more of a challenge
than designing for a client, but the result is a welcoming space that
combines traditional elements with modern and individual touches
TIME FOR CHANGE Pages 7077 PERSONAL PROJECT Pages 7883
1 LIGHT 2 CABINET 3 SOFA 1 BOTANICAL 2 CUSHION 3 LAMPSHADE

A Vine illuminated Piet Hein Eeks In the sitting room, PRINTS Svenkst Tenns Melodi Hornes silk
sculpture by Jeff Waste Cabinet in Rabih Hage has The fern engravings Celotocaulis cushion and cotton gathered
Zimmerman hangs Scrapwood is an covered an Adriano in the sitting room sits on the pale grey ikat lampshades are
in the sitting room interesting take on a sofa by Promemoria of Ben Pentreaths sofa in Bens sitting dotted around the
of this west London traditional sideboard in a grey velvet, but it Bloomsbury flat are room. Made of linen, flat. Made in England,
house. Made of brass in the dining room. is available in a range by the nineteenth- the pattern was the lampshades are
and 16 mouth-blown Piet makes a range of colours and fabrics century illustrator designed by Josef lined with Irish linen
opaque globes, each of recycled wood and can also be Henry Bradbury, and Frank in the Twenties. and come in two
sculpture is unique. pieces, including the custom covered in were a lucky find The cushion comes in sizes and an array
R & Company in Classic Cupboard in a fabric of your own. at Portobello Road two sizes and can be of colours. Shown
New York sells Jeff Scrapwood, pictured It is shown here in market. Okas set of ordered online from here is the Green
Zimmerman lighting. here. Available from canapa, a neutral eight Framed Fern Svenskt Tenn; the Turquoise Flower
The piece shown SCP, it is made to cotton/linen, Prints creates a 40cm square version shade, which
here measures 127 order and measures measures 100 x similar effect. Each pictured costs about measures 30.5 x
x 137.2cm and costs 215 x 100 x 48cm. 314 x 77cm and frame measures 59 82. svenskttenn.se 45cm diameter
$125,000. r-and- Prices start at 3,750. costs 14,520. x 47cm and the set and costs 395.
company.com 020-7739 1869; 020-7730 2514; costs 265. 0844-815 020-7430 2526;
scp.co.uk promemoria.com 7380; okadirect.com pentreath-hall.com

Inspired by the houses in this issue, ELIZABETH METCALFE
gives directions on how to achieve similar style
1
1
celebrating a
GOLDEN
AG E
3 3
As specialists in reviving vintage
pieces, gilder Clare Mosley and
her husband Mark Bicknell had the
ideal skills to restore a ravaged
Georgian house in south London
pole positioning
On the Caribbean island of Mustique, interior designer Veere Grenney has
redesigned a bamboo house that is a study in neutrals and natural materials,
set off by the green of the palms outside and the glorious blue of the ocean
POLE POSITIONING Pages 8487 CELEBRATING A GOLDEN AGE Pages 8893
1 RUSH MAT 2 BATH 3 CHAIR 1 FABRIC 2 WALLPAPER 3 CLUB FENDER

In the great room A copper bath creates Rattan chairs in the The fabric used Clare Mosley has In the sitting room, a
and the TV room of a pleasing contrast style of the twentieth- for the canopy, chosen to cover her traditional club fender
this Mustique house, with the bamboo-clad century furniture bedspread and bathroom in Lewis & with an upholstered
the floors are covered bathroom. Interior designer Paul Frankl cushions in the main Woods Fly Fishing seat and a brass base
with rush mats from designer Veere sit in the great room. bedroom of this wallpaper. Showing fits snugly around
Chairworks. Made of Grenney sourced Frankls chairs were south London house quintessentially rural the chimneypiece.
interwoven rushes, it from The Water made in the Thirties is Mikado L2804, scenes, the motif is Acres Farm has a
the thick mats come Monopoly, which and Forties, and he from Le Manach. The based on works by large range of club
in three different stocks an extensive took his inspiration French company has the painter George fenders, with prices
sizes. Shown here range of vintage from Asian shapes recently been bought Morland. It is starting at 1,128.
is the small Rush copper baths. Howe and materials. Shown by Pierre Frey. The 52cm wide and For another good
Runner, which has a similar one with here is another Frankl- fabric is based on a costs 77.40 for option, try Jambs
measures 190 x 70cm a roll top; it measures inspired bamboo chair, 1790 design, and is a 10-metre roll. Club Fender, pictured
and costs 59.95. 73 x 157 x 65cm and which is available from shown here in red. 020-7751 4554; here. It measures
020-8247 3700; costs 10,000. Talisman. It measures Also available in blue lewisandwood.co.uk 55.5 x 175 x 54cm and
PIXELATE; DAVID BROOK
chairworks.info 020-7624 2636; 81.5 x 84 x 89cm and yellow, it costs costs 5,400. 0118-
thewatermonopoly. and costs 1,450. 252 a metre. 974 4305; acresfarm.
com | 020-7730 7987; 020-7731 4686; 020-7376 5599; co.uk | 020-7730
howelondon.com talismanlondon.com pierrefrey.com 2122; jamb.co.uk

FULL
STEAM
AHEAD
There is no shortage of woeful tales surrounding Stoke-on-Trents
ceramics industry but, as DAVID NICHOLLS discovers, three
very different companies are making great strides to get back on track
PHOTOGRAPHS
ANDREW MONTGOMERY
BURLEIGH OPPOSITE Christine Sproston, a tissue printer for the pottery company Burleigh, prints the Regal Peacock pattern onto fine tissue from a hand-
engraved copper roller. Patterns on the tissue will be applied to ceramic forms before being fired in the kiln. THIS PAGE Freshly printed ware on a dottie or trolley

or as long as I can remember,
F there has been a real Little

Engine That Could sense of
hope in Stoke-on-Trent. I
think I can, I think I can,
the Potteries have desper-
ately chugged. The uphill struggle has
been one for the survival of the ceramics
industry, which has been in decline since
the Seventies. Still, factories continued to
close: Mintons in 1991, Royal Doulton in
2004, Aynsley in 2014. Companies were
sold off or merged. Between 1998 and
2008, an estimated 20,000 jobs were
lost. Of course, there were success stories,
too: Emma Bridgewater, who founded her
tableware company in the area in 1985
one of the Potteries darkest periods is
regularly held up as an example of how
a well-managed business can still thrive
in Britains ceramic heartland. Yet I
have often feared that proclamations of a
Potteries revival including my own
have been largely based on the hopes of
creating a self-fulfilling prophecy. Have
the Potteries finally run out of steam?
You would be given short shrift if you
suggested this to the people of Burleigh,
founded in 1851 and known the world over
for its patterned tableware. There is an
air of enthusiasm and confidence here,
although that wasnt the case as recently
as 2011. Burleigh, owned by Derbyshire-
based Denby Holdings since 2010, looked
as though it would have to move out
of Middleport Pottery, the crumbling,
unmodernised Victorian factory that had
been its home for over a century. English
Heritage identified it as a building at risk.
It was at this point that the Princes
Regeneration Trust, the Prince of Waless
conservation and preservation charity,
stepped in with an audacious plan. It pro-
posed to buy the Middleport Pottery site
from Denby and restore it without inter-
rupting production. It would then lease
back 50 per cent of the facility to Denby
for the continued making of Burleigh
ware. Three years and 9 million after
the deal was struck, the project was comp-
BURLEIGH CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT In the foreground, a tankard jug is being released from leted and is nothing short of brilliant.
its Plaster of Paris mould. Creative director Steven Moore. Tankard jugs in Regal Peacock and Arden What is most satisfying about the restor-
designs. Middleport Potterys last bottle kiln. Rubbing liquid soap onto the tissue transfer to ensure ation is the degree of sensitivity shown. It
the pattern adheres to the pot. Caster Andy Kuprianowicz carries teapots to the fettling department hasnt been overdone; Middleport hasnt

The future is uncertain,
and out of the hands of
the people working to
keep the industry alive
been Disney-fied. What we felt especially and digging through Burleighs immense
strongly about was that it should not archive of over 20,000 moulds, and
feel like a working museum, says Ros reinstating pieces that catch his eye.
Kerslake, chief executive of the Princes Moustache mugs have been brought back
Regeneration Trust. into production, ref lecting the renewed
Jemma Baskeyfield, who is Burleighs popularity of facial hair. Will hipsters
historian and retail manager, grew up start buying Burleigh?
two streets away and recalls how secret-
ive the area used to be. Because it was so f Middleport Potterys rest-
I
competitive between the potteries, you oration presents a certain
wouldnt speak to someone from a dif- sepia-toned, misty-eyed
ferent pottery at a trade fair youd be image of traditional craft
afraid youd lose your job. No one knew values, then developments
what went on within these walls because just a few miles away can
there were no tours. Stoke-on-Trent was be seen as its vampish
late in embracing industrial tourism. counterpart, all glossy and
Burleigh has opened a two-floor shop, simpering. The headquar-
which sells its entire range. The Trust has ters of the 257-year-old
opened a caf overlooking the Trent and pottery Wedgwood has just
Mersey Canal, selling cappuccinos and undergone a 34 million makeover and
delicious oatcakes a local speciality. The it is a sight to behold. Set on the 240-acre
spaces not occupied by Burleigh have been Wedgwood Estate, a collection of build-
developed and are rented out as work- ings stands proudly in the Staffordshire
shops, a gallery and a visitor centre. countryside. The forecourt lawn is dotted
Now, free factory tours snake around the with giant willow sculptures in the shapes
site and visitor numbers have doubled an of teacups, urns and pots the work of the
initial goal of 10,000 per year. The rela- artist Tom Hare.
tively unmechanised making process can Welcome to the World of Wedgwood,
be seen up close: each of the 2,000 or so where it is hoped that 175,000 visitors a
pieces made here each day goes through year will come to spend the day and
25 pairs of hands before it is finished. their money. There is certainly enough
Staff numbers in the factory have grown scope to do both. Factory tours a first
from 50 to 100 and one of the conditions for Wedgwood are conducted on plat-
of the Trusts lease-back agreement was forms raised high above the ground,
that Burleigh must continue to operate overlooking the brand new facilities.
using traditional skills. The Victorian Sixty per cent of Wedgwoods ceramic
underglaze tissue ceramic transfer tech- production (all of its bone china and
nique of decoration, of which Burleigh jasperware) takes place here, a message
claims to be the last practitioner in the that Wedgwood is keen to communicate.
world, is a completely handmade process. This company is totally dedicated to UK
Adding a flourish of gentle modernity manufacturing, says the companys chief
is Burleighs new creative director. Steven financial officer Anthony Jones. As part
Moore, a ceramics expert, whom many will of the redevelopment, Wedgwood has also
recognise from his TV appearances on committed to maintaining the existing
Antiques Roadshow, has been brought on 500 jobs and to creating 100 new ones
board to increase the companys relevance within three years.
for the twenty-first-century home. I dont As well as the tour, there is a craft studio
want to make antiques, he says. I want us where visitors can throw their own pot,
to make things that people will use and get which will be sent to them once it is fired.
rid of the things that they dont. Who uses There is a hands-on decorating studio,
a spoon tray? No one. You use a saucer. where blank plates are digitally printed to WEDGWOOD FROM TOP The atrium
Spoon trays are made-up Seventies things your own design. A glamorous tea room, entrance to the World of Wedgwood, which has
to have when youre making spag bol. He which has been described as providing a new tea room (centre). Anthemion Ruby
has been happily rolling up his sleeves a London experience in Stoke-on-Trent, bowls in production in the Barlaston factory

REIKO KANEKO OPPOSITE
Reiko in the studio with some
of her glazed bone china vessels
is staffed by tea sommeliers to guide you hat is even more heart-

through Wedgwoods 50-strong tea
range. In an adjacent building is a more
casual restaurant, the design of which
was inspired by the original Wedgwood
workers canteen.
As with Burleigh, Wedgwoods recent
past has been troubled. In 2009, its
W ening is the emergence of a
new wave of designers who
use the skills in Stoke-on-
Trent to create products
that speak more of the Vitsoe shelf than the
Welsh dresser. One of these is Reiko Kaneko,
the British-Japanese designer who opened
owner, Waterford Wedgwood, filed for her own studio in the area a few years after
bankruptcy protection and a US private graduating from Central Saint Martins.
equity firm bought the brands (which Her inventive, delicate and often witty
included Waterford, Wedgwood and Royal bone-china creations are stocked at SCP in
Doulton). Wedgwood was sold again in London and design shops around the world.
May 2015, this time to the Finnish home- Reiko designs the shapes, has the moulds
wares group Fiskars. Meanwhile, the made locally and decorates the finished
earlier bankruptcy meant the Wedgwood forms, but does not manufacture the ceramic
Collection, its archive, was nearly sold off bodies herself. These are produced by a small
in order to pay the pottery companys pottery called Topaz, which was set up by
pension bill. A 15.75 million Art Fund Tony and Heather Douthwaite in 1994. They
campaign was successful in saving the have hundreds of clients for whom they pro-
collection, which is now owned by the duce undecorated whiteware, but, according
V&A, and on long-term loan to the new to Tony, Reiko is becoming one of the big
Wedgwood Museum truly worth seeing. players for Topaz. Some of the other dynamic
Gaye Blake Roberts is the museums young brands Topaz processes for are H for
director and has worked for Wedgwood Hannah, by the LA-based British designer
for 36 years. The day I stop learning Hannah Marrow, and 1882, set up by two
something new about Wedgwood every scions of the Johnson Brothers ceramics
day is the day I leave, she says. There are dynasty, Emily Johnson and Christopher,
80,000 pieces in the Wedgwood Collec- her father. Tony has worked in the Potteries
tion, over 3,000 of which are on display. since 1979 and puts great value in this new
And its not just pots, although there are injection of business: Clients like Reiko and
plenty of those, of course. Wedgwood has Emily make a hell of a lot of difference.
an impressive fine-art collection, includ- Theyve allowed us to progress, to move to
ing paintings and portraits by George bigger premises and establish ourselves.
Stubbs, John Flaxman and Eduardo At the time of writing, there is more hand-
Paolozzi. The drawers of a handsome cab- wringing in the press about how the
inet open to reveal tiny, historic enamel, slowdown of the Chinese economy might
glaze and white jasper trials. On a wall at have an impact on British manufacturing.
the entrance is a large and mesmerising Stoke-on-Trent is so reliant on Chinese
spinning wheel, annotated with the (as well as Japanese and Korean) sales and
Wedgwood family tree, going back nearly visitors, that Visit Britain, the British tour-
four centuries to its founder Josiah. ism authority, recently gave the area a more
Alongside Burleigh and Wedgwood are descriptive Chinese name: Wan Bo Tao Ci,
other well-known potteries of which the meaning diverse ceramics.
news is more boom than gloom. It has been The future is uncertain, and to a degree
reported that Portmeirion is investing out of the hands of the people working to
1.5 million in its factory and has keep the industry alive. Can the Potteries
launched an apprenticeship scheme. maintain its traction on the steep road to
Churchill China has seen profits rise and is recovery? I think it can. I think it can
embarking on a 1.4 million expansion
WEDGWOOD FROM TOP A display of plan. Steelite, the areas biggest ceramics Burleigh: 01773-740740; burleigh.co.uk
trial glazes in the Wedgwood Museum. company, which services the catering Wedgwood: 01782-282651; wedgwood.co.uk
Its director Gaye Blake Roberts. The new industry, has plans for a new factory and worldofwedgwood.com | wedgwoodmuseum.
production facilities at Wedgwood the creation of over 100 jobs. org.uk | Reiko Kaneko: reikokaneko.co.uk

TRIBAL
GATHERING
Gabby Deeming and
Ruth Sleightholme
use ethnic prints and
African artefacts to create
schemes that stand out
against the stripped-back
beauty of a converted barn
PHOTOGRAPHS ANDERS SCHNNEMANN
WALLS Curtains, Bora Bora Print Embellished (lava black), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, linen mix with wooden beads, 375 a metre, from Turnell & Gigon. FURNI-
TURE Twentieth-century Ghanaian wooden stool (left of sofa), Leopand, 950, from Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London. Sofa, Edward, by Niels Bendtsen, 70 x 265 x
175cm, 4,164, from Viaduct; sofa and back cushions covered in Milford (ivory), linen, 105 a metre, from Colefax and Fowler; and brown back cushion in Sack Cloth (ginger),
jute/linen, 115.20 a metre, from de Le Cuona. Aluminium and wicker cabinet, Meet The Wicker, by Chudy & Grase, 125 x 65 x 35cm, 1,800, from Mint. Twentieth-century
wooden stools, from left: Tanzanian ceremonial stool, 470; Kenyan elders stool, 450; Congolese chiefs stool, 750; Zambian village stool, 320; and Ethiopian cooking
stool, 380; all from Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London. Seventies rattan armchair, 86 x 76 x 89cm, 3,600 for two, from Talisman. ACCESSORIES Steel and walnut

Bluetooth speaker (on stool), Gramophone, by Gramovox, 395, from The Conran Shop. Twentieth-century vessels (on walls): Congolese wicker storage vessel, 450; Ugandan
wooden milk pots, 380 each; gourd-palm wine container, 280; all from Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London. Patterned square cushions, Watom (caramel), linen/
viscose, 182.40 a metre, from Pierre Frey. Rectangular cushions, Hackan (coal), by Lee Jofa, cotton/linen, 125 a metre, from G P & J Baker. Merino wool throw (on sofa),
Tweed Emphasize, by Mourne Textiles, 285, from The New Craftsmen. British stoneware cup and saucer, 67, from Willer. Steel and cast-iron floor lamp, by Workstead, 101
x 116 x 15cm base diameter, 725, from Another Country. Raffia Kuba cloths (on cabinet), from 99 each, from The Conran Shop. Throw (on chair), Phinda R (dix-huit), wool
mix, from 465 a metre, from Toyine Sellers; trimmed with Palm Frond (sea oyster), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, linen, 7cm wide, 88.20 a metre, from Turnell & Gigon

THIS PAGE WALLS Seventies sisal tapestry, by Bodil Bdtker-Nss, 216 x 100cm, 6,800, from Rose Uniacke. FLOORS Plaited natural-fibre rugs, clockwise from top:
Rati, Kesav and Okra, by Gaa, 295 a square metre, from Flock. FURNITURE Chaise longue, Ledbury, 99 x 158 x 79cm, 2,020, from David Seyfried; with base
trimmed in Tonga Tape (marine), linen/raffia with wooden beads, 13cm wide, 142.60 a metre; and Hula (palm), linen, 20cm wide, 159.40 a metre; both by Mary
McDonald for Schumacher, from Turnell & Gigon; back cushion trimmed with Palm Frond (marine), linen, 7cm wide, 88.20 a metre; and Tikki Tape (marine), linen/raffia,
8cm wide, 79.80 a metre; both by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, from Turnell & Gigon. Nineteenth-century Ethiopian wooden ceremonial chair, 1,500, from
Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London. ACCESSORIES Cotton sarongs (on chaise), Zigzag (mustard), 79, and Wide Stripe (indigo), 76, both by Stitchwallah,
from Darkroom. Sisal baskets, Clean Slate, small (on wall), 16, and large, 49, from The Basket Room. Brushed oak lamp with paper shade, Claire, 2,400;

eighteenth-century Thai stoneware pot (on wall), 2,502; both from Christian Liaigre. Early-twentieth-century cotton and glass-beaded Nigerian Yoruba crowns on stands,
from 750 each, from Joss Graham. ABOVE WALLS Paper-backed grasscloth wallcovering, Mrs Howell Natural (palm), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, 108cm wide,
524.40 for a 4-metre roll, from Turnell & Gigon. FURNITURE Ash and coppiced-chestnut cabinet, Scorched Shake, by Sebastian Cox and Benchmark, 180 x 82 x 40cm,
4,600, from The New Craftsmen. Oyster bed black limestone and oak Refectory Table, 72 x 240 x 100cm, 4,195, from Lapicida. Beech-framed and cashmere
upholstered horsehair Salon Chair, 94.5 x 51 x 59cm, 2,160, from Howe. ACCESSORIES Stoneware horses, by Claire Ireland, 183 each, from Contemporary
Ceramics Centre. Earthenware tableware, by Barbotine, from 14 for a side plate, from Hexagone. Stoneware rice bowls, 92 each, from Willer. Stoneware fish platter,
275; stoneware teacups, from 43 each; all from Willer. Raffia Kuba cloth table runner, 365, from The Conran Shop

THIS PAGE WALLS Twentieth-century African mudcloth wall hanging, 260 x 220cm, 1,450, from Quindry. FLOOR Wool rug, Beni Ourain, 370 x 96cm, 1,800, from
Franois Gilles. FURNITURE Thirties English oak armchairs, 82 x 54cm square, 1,600 a pair; Forties French oak pedestal, 98 x 40cm square, 1,650; both from Quindry.
ACCESSORIES Twentieth-century Algerian clay vessel (on floor), 550, from Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London. Sixties urn-shape wax lamp, 1,480, from Quindry.
Bolster cushions in, Sack Cloth (ginger), jute/linen, 115.20 a metre, from de Le Cuona; trimmed with Tikki Tape (lava black), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, linen/
raffia, 8cm wide, 79.80 a metre, from Turnell & Gigon. OPPOSITE WALLS Fabric, from left: Nairobi (sable), linen mix, 140cm wide, 148.80 a metre, from Pierre Frey;
Moorea (lava black), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, jute mix, 137cm wide, 265.20 a metre, from Turnell & Gigon. FLOOR Handwoven wool rug, by Rachel Scott, 75
x 145cm, 385, from ODells. FURNITURE Nineteenth-century Swedish pine bench, 45 x 145 x 30cm, 550, from Puckhaber. Bedside table covered in Felix (natural),

linen, 100 a metre, from George Spencer Designs; trimmed with Hula (lava black), by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, linen, 20cm wide, 159.40 a metre, from Turnell
& Gigon. Oak and rush bed, Camargue (blackened oak), 226 x 169 x 221cm, 9,450, from Ralph Lauren Home. Lacquered cotton-rope Moiste Chair, by Christian
Astuguevieille, 110 x 40 x 45cm, 4,250, from Holly Hunt. ACCESSORIES Twentieth-century Ethiopian wooden pot, 350, from Bryan Reeves Tribal Gathering London.
Iron and aluminium lamps, Cloche (black), by Wrong for Hay, 189 each, from Do South Shop. Porcelain vase, Shell, by John Newdigate, 85, from The Conran Shop.
Linen bedlinen, Washed (chalk), from 48 for 2 pillowcases, from Larusi. Bedcover, Garba (01), silk, 55 a metre, from Malabar; trimmed with Palm Frond (lava black),
by Mary McDonald for Schumacher, linen, 7cm wide, 88.20 a metre, from Turnell & Gigon. Raffia cloth cushions (top and at foot of bed), Kuba, 129 each, from The
Conran Shop. Linen cushions with raffia trim, Raphia, 660 each, from Holland & Sherry. For suppliers details, see Stockists page

STOWE
Lancelot Capability Brown was appointed head gardener of Stowe in 1741, remaining in the position for
a decade. His 1744 wedding was held on the estate. Pictured here is the entrance, with the Oxford Bridge,
built after Browns tenure, and the Boycott Pavilions beyond, which date from the early eighteenth century
Planned
PERFECTION
To mark 300 years since the birth of Lancelot Capability Brown,
many of the gardens that still reflect his distinctive approach to landscape
design will open their gates for a series of talks, walks and events
TEXT TIM RICHARDSON | PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREA JONES
n 2016, the gardening world he had not created any landscape gardens
I
will mark the three-hundredth in Ireland; his reply was that he had not
anniversary of the birth of yet finished England.
Lancelot Capability Brown, The political aspect is important because,
whose nickname derived from in the first half of the eighteenth century,
his habit of remarking upon landowners of Tory or Whig persuasion had
the capabilities or potential of used landscape design as a way of express-
a landscape. To commemorate ing their political ideals and intellectual
the anniversary, dozens of the interests, often in a highly individualistic
gardens associated with Brown are opening manner as at Stowe, where the Temple of
to the public (if they are in private hands) British Worthies presented a pantheon of
or else hosting special events, including true Whig heroes as a riposte to the cor-
walks and talks. He is, after all, the most rupt Whig regime under Robert Walpole,
celebrated landscape designer Britain has 1st Earl of Orford. What Brown offered by
ever produced, with only Andr Le Ntre contrast was a benignly apolitical vision,
of Versailles vying with him in terms of which nevertheless incorporated elements
international fame. of the formal classical vocabulary, such as
So what is it that makes Brown so special? temples, seats, Palladian bridges and porti-
First, there is the sheer scale of his achieve- coes all shorn of the symbolic meaning
ments. From when he started work as head with which they were previously freighted.
gardener at Stowe in the 1740s, until his The Brown look rolling pasture right
death in 1783, Brown advised or worked up to the house walls, decorous clumps or
on at least 170 English estates (the exact belts of trees, carefully sited lakes and false
number ebbs and flows according to docu- rivers (often with an attractive bridge or
mentary evidence). He exerted almost two) and entrance drives engineered for
a monopoly on landscape style in the late dramatic effect became de rigueur in the
eighteenth century, with aristocrats and country houses of the day. Great estates,
landed gentry of all political stripes calling such as Chatsworth, Bowood, Alnwick
on his advice. He was once asked why and Stowe, were subject to a Brownian
BOWOOD
At Bowood, Brown created a beautiful park after being commissioned by William, 2nd Earl of Shelburne, in 1762.
Sloping lawns drift down to the lake, which Brown created by extending a pond. Pictured above left is the Cascade
waterfall; Brown is thought to be responsible for some of the rock work. He originally sited the Doric Temple
in Bowoods Pleasure Grounds, but it was moved to its present position (above right) in the nineteenth century

makeover. Blenheim is perhaps his most a brown coat in his portraits, like a country
celebrated work today, while Croome Court parson, and never publishing a word about
in Worcestershire (Browns first major his design precepts.
commission) is now the subject of a very Despite his astonishing success, Brown
ambitious restoration by the National Trust. has proved a controversial figure in garden
In Browns day, vast sums could often be history. The creation of his pastoral idylls
expended on these landscape projects, in many cases led to the removal of the
especially where substantial water features elaborate and formal parterre gardens of
were planned and, as a result, he became a the seventeenth century and, as a result, he
very rich man indeed, also enjoying royal has been blamed for the virtual erasure of
patronage later in his career, as master gar- a key period in English landscape history.
dener at Hampton Court and High Sheriff Recently, though, Browns sensitivity to
of Huntingdonshire. Yet he never let up, existing formal landscapes has been more
covering huge distances on horseback even appreciated he frequently retained for-
late in life, visiting far-flung estates and mal features, such as avenues of trees and
dispensing advice, charming clients and straight carriage rides, just so long as the
checking on the work of an army of garden- essential pastoralism of the scene he was
ers and foremen (the average scheme took creating was not undermined.
five years to complete). Another often under-appreciated aspect
Even then, he could not be everywhere at of Browns work is the sheer practicality of
once and mistakes did happen. As he wrote his landscape design in an estate setting.
by way of apology to one disgruntled client Those rolling acres of pasture near the
in Wiltshire, When I am galloping in one house were conceived as haymaking fact-
part of the world, my men are making ories, a vital resource on estates that relied
blunders and neglects. on horsepower, while the clumps and belts
In rather a modern way, Brown engi- of trees that fringed the park were also
neered his own image as carefully as his useful coverts for game birds, at a time
landscapes. He deliberately cultivated the when innovations in gun design led to
appearance of a reliable yeoman who would game-shooting becoming a mania among
not get above himself plainly dressed in landowners. Even the artificial lakes Brown
ALNWICK
The 1st Duke of Northumberland employed Brown in 1750 to landscape the parkland adjoining Alnwick Castle.
He created hills along the roadside to hide the castle from view and originally planned a lake, in which the
Duchess could sail her boat, Esperance. Following a flood in 1771, however, he instead built the Lion Bridge (right)

created doubled as stores of fish, waterfowl owed something to the composition of
and otters for sport. Claude Lorrains landscape paintings,
The great paradox of Browns work, and which were highly influential at the time
the reason that it is sometimes described (and often found hanging in the drawing
as invisible, is that the whole point was to rooms from which these very vistas could
create an illusion of natural English coun- be espied). So, despite the ostensible natu-
tryside and many of us have fallen for it ralism, the approach was rational and
over the centuries. Browns achievements geometric: a plan view of a typical Brown
are all too easy to take for granted because landscape design resembles something that
we assume that his landscapes have always a contemporary computer programme
been there. Yet a typical Brownian land- might come up with.
scape is highly artificial, the result of Finally, it is worth celebrating the sheer
earth-moving, extensive tree planting (and versatility and flexibility of his design
tree removal), the erasure of buildings or model. This was not a style that was simply
even whole villages, and the creation or rolled out across England like a lorryload
finessing of rivers and lakes. of turf. Each and every Brown design has
In a Brownian landscape, even the direc- its own distinctive features and bears the
tions in which we look will have been hand of the master, always working in
manipulated by the designer, by means of tandem with the particularities of the land-
the placement of trees and hills. Brown scape and its atmosphere what the great
eschewed vistas that ran straight out from eighteenth-century poet and gardener
the front of a house, for example, preferring Alexander Pope called, the genius of the
diagonal visual lines from park to house place. Perhaps that is a fitting description,
and vice versa, ideally involving a change too, for Lancelot Brown
of level, and he would carefully organise
numerous other cross vistas throughout the For more information about the events and
estate. Groups of trees were often placed as celebrations organised for Capability Browns
staging posts in a long vista. This technique anniversary, visit capabilitybrown.org
CHATSWORTH
In 1760, Brown started work at Chatsworth, creating natural-looking pastoral landscape from what had previously
been working farmland, and blurring the distinction between the garden and park, so that the park apparently
came up to the walls of the house. Parterres were converted to pasture, but several important formal features
remained, and a variety of tree species were imported from North America. The River Derwent (opposite and
above left), runs through the estate, and the Emperor Fountain (above right) was added in the nineteenth century

Snow white splendour
Though beautiful year round, the gardens of Cambo House in Fife come into
their own in winter, when the breathtaking array of snowdrops, contrasting with
delicate seed heads and semi-evergreen foliage, attracts visitors in their droves
TEXT CAROLINE BECK | PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREA JONES

OPPOSITE Galanthus
sandersii Lowick.
THIS PAGE Eryngium
yuccifolium with
Elymus canadensis
any seasoned gardeners will can be finicky. The Scottish Snowdrop Festival, from the end
M
quietly admit that their favour- of January to the end of March, is one of the highlights of
ite time of year is winter. When Scotlands gardening year, and the moonlit walks of Cambos
I heard a famous gardener say snowdrop woods, called Snowdrops by Starlight, reduce even the
this, I thought I had misunder- most hard-hearted to childlike wonder. When most garden shops
stood. To me, winter was the are closed or looking forlorn, Cambo is doing a roaring trade in
death of the garden, but now, snowdrops, hellebores, crocus, leucojum, Iris histrioides and
two decades on, I realise that aconites, bringing light and colour to the short days.
she was telling me something Catherine, helped by her head gardener Elliott Forsyth, is
invaluable. The days are short, always experimenting, looking for ways to expand the range of
the weather frequently vile, but the time is your own and you things that visitors can enjoy. As the garden is relatively dry for
finally have a moment to stop and take in the unlooked-for Scotland, Elliott influenced by the Dutch plantsman Piet
beauty of the way that frost, snow and low winter sun act upon Oudolf designed the North American Prairie Garden, a late-
your garden and the few plants still performing the genuine summer perennial and grass flower extravaganza, which blazes
toughs, as the garden writer Vita Sackville-West once called in August and September and has the added bonus of keeping
them. Its a season of deep reflection, and we all need that. its skeletal structure until late winter. The low winter light
Cambo in Fife, near the coastal town of St Andrews, is a well illuminates the seed heads of plants like Monarda fistulosa,
cared for and loved garden at any time of the year, but in winter Aster laevis and Eryngium yuccifolium, their delicacy like the
it really finds its voice. The abundance of snowdrops, thousands wings of insects, often beaded in early morning frost. Gold-
upon thousands of them sweeping through the oak and beech finches, blue tits and siskins can often be seen swaying on the
woodland leading to a little rugged beach, is extraordinary, and stems as they raid the protein-rich seeds. The spent foliage
you are struck by the contrast of the delicacy of the snowdrops provides an insulating blanket for the roots, as well as a little
and their proximity to the turbulent grey sea. You find yourself food for the following season, and it is finally chopped back to
unexpectedly lifted at the sight of them, even on a damp and the ground in February.
dismal day. They are not just flowers. They signal that the earth Alongside the North American Prairie Garden is the Winter
is waking up and the light is finally returning. According to Lady Garden, and here Catherine has pushed at the boundaries of
Catherine Erskine, galanthophile extraordinaire and enter- what constitutes a winter plant. Weve got Himalayan birch with
prising gardener, who with her husband Sir Peter owns Cambo, the ghostly white trunks, the coloured stems of dogwood and, of
The more grey the winter, the more the visitors come to see them. course, our rarer snowdrops, but Im also extending these true
When she and Peter first came to live at Cambo in 1976, they winter plants to the foliage of early spring ones. So the fleshy
were captivated by the dense carpet of snowdrops both singles winter leaves of bergenia or elephants ears in bronze, scarlet
and doubles in the woods, which span 70 acres. Peters grand- or burgundy are contrasted with flame-coloured Euphorbia
mother, a talented gardener, encouraged their prolific spread griffithii Dixter, the soft leaves of the perennial honesty plant
by replanting them every few years and Catherine thought she Lunaria rediviva or the many different types of heuchera, which
could do the same. Initially, as a way of making the estate pay, have excellent, semi-evergreen foliage ranging from bright
Catherine sold some bulbs to the diggers who come, dig them green to deep plum. As Catherine says, It certainly stops you
up, then sell them on. She even enlisted her four children to getting too precious about what is a winter plant and, because of
dig up some clumps and replant them. The following February, the season, you really have time to stop and look
to her surprise, they flowered in the distinctive shape of the
Ban the Bomb symbol. The gardens of Cambo House, Kingsbarns, St Andrews,
A visit to Hodsock Priory in Nottinghamshire in 2002, a place Fife are open daily from 10am until 5pm (01333-450054;
famed for its huge numbers of snowdrops and visitors inspired camboestate.com; camboheritagetrust.org.uk)
Catherine to venture into snowdrops tourism. That year, she
distributed some flyers advertising the snowdrops and immedi-
ately doubled the number of annual visitors to Cambo. From
there, she went on to sell them directly and by mail order, and to
amass a collection of over 350 different varieties, such as the tall
and stately Galanthus elwesii, the sweetly scented S Arnott and
the elegant green-tipped Viridapice. Not all have such poetic
names Grumpy is a particular favourite. The snowdrops
Snowdrops attract devotees and Catherine has seen them all
from the casual visitor gasping as they see them for the first
are not just flowers.
time, to the dedicated collector lying on their stomach in the They signal that
winter wet minutely examining each marking. In 2012, a single
rare snowdrop bulb was auctioned on eBay for 725. Catherine the earth is waking
has one of the NCCPG snowdrop collections and built her repu-
tation on selling them in the green, with their leaves still intact,
up and the light is
finding that they established more reliably than bulbs, which finally returning
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Corylus avellana Contorta. The Japanese Bridge crosses the Cambo burn. Parthenium integrifolium. Leucojum vernum.
Miscanthus sinensis Yakushima Dwarf and Phormium tenax Atropurpureum in the Prairie Garden. A view of the North Sea from the bottom of the Cambo burn
walk. Galanthus nivalis f. pleniflorus Flore Pleno lines a woodland path. An allium seed head. Himalayan birch and Cornus sanguinea Midwinter Fire (centre)

WINE & FOOD
TA S T E NO T E S | R E C I PE S | S I M PL E S U PPE R S
These sweet treats

are made to order
Tuesday to Friday
and delivered
the next day
TA ST E N OT E S
NEWS, REVIEWS AND TIPS FOR COOKS AND WINE LOVERS, BY JOANNA SIMON
Canels are a speciality of Bordeaux, so the best ought to be made there, but I havent found
any as good as those produced in London by Caroline Coutand-Gavriloiu under the label
Yvonne & Guite (named after her grandmothers). From the caramelised crust and soft centre
to the delicate vanilla and rum flavouring, they are special; 16.50 for a 250g box of 25 mini
canels, 18 for a 315g box of 9 regular size, 20 for a 310g mixed box of 16. yvonneguite.com

WINE & FOOD | TASTE NOTES
A signature ingredient at newly reopened Sartoria in Mayfair is the citrus fruit bergamot. Find it in chef
Francesco Mazzeis risotto with cuttlefish, squid with polenta, wild-boar marinade, jellies and sorbets.
FLAVOURS OF CHILDHOOD
The single-origin spices in Green Saffron spice kits come
WINES
from founder Arun Kapils familys farm in Moradabad, India,
making them fresher and more aromatic than mass-market
OF THE
spices, which can be years old. All kits include Aruns inval-
uable book, Fresh Spice, and a Moulinex AR1044 grinder. MONTH
The beginners kit has five whole (unground) spices (65);
the advanced kit has 12, plus three blends (135); and the
master kit has 18 spices and extras such as an Ilsa grater,
basmati rice and mango chutney (175). greensaffron.com
Handmade, organic, vegan and variously flavoured with goji, maca,

spirulina and other so-called superfoods, Doisy & Dams five dark
chocolate bars may sound holier than thou, but theyre made with
Chenin Blanc should quality chocolate with well-balanced flavours. If 74 per cent cocoa is
be on more wine more than you want, theres a new range of milk and white bars, with
drinkers radars. flavours including quinoa, smoked tea and vanilla. Bars cost 1.75 for
Coming in all styles, 40g and 3.50 for 100g; a box of 5 x 40g is 9.50. doisyanddam.com
from dry to sweet, still
and sparkling, it ages
well and its natural GO FOR GRAVADLAX
acidity makes it If youve enjoyed gravadlax at events such as Henley, Goodwood and
a good food wine. Wimbledon, it may well have been supplied by Coln Valley Smokery
Chteau de Fesles in Gloucestershire. The salmon from Scotland is cured in trad-
La Chapelle Anjou itional brick kilns, but has contemporary flavours, such as Pimms,
Chenin 2012/13 is 7.95 for 200g; or pesto, beetroot and lemon, 14.85 for a 390g pack
textbook Loire Chenin of all three, or 7.60 for 200g individual packs. colnvalley.co.uk
dry and racy with
orchard fruitiness,
13.99, Waitrose.
GREAT READS Montes Alpha

Oysters are extraordinary creatures: highly nutritious and Cabernet Sauvignon
providers of pearls and shells, they change sex at will, pre- 2012 from Chiles
date humans and, in Canada, can live to 100 years old. Drew Colchagua Valley is
Smiths OYSTER: A GASTRONOMIC HISTORY the first vintage to be
(Abrams, 18.99), is as much an illustrated cultural history dry farmed, which
as a cookbook, though there are 50 recipes. Berry Bros hugely cuts water
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLA O SMIT
& Rudd Wine Schools EXPLORING & TASTING usage and gives a
WINE: A WINE COURSE WITH DIGRESS- wine with richer but
IONS (B B & R Press, 30) cleverly works as both an brighter fruit and
introduction to the subject of wine and wine tasting and, smoother tannins,
with its essays, a book for the more knowledgeable. 12.50, Slurp.co.uk.

CRISP SUSHI CAKES WITH
TUNA SASHIMI, COCONUT
PRAWNS WITH SRIRACHA
DIP, AND SCALLOPS AND
CHORIZO WITH PEA PUREE
WINE & FOOD | RECIPES
Modern morsels
IF YOUR CANAPE REPERTOIRE IS RATHER UNINSPIRING, WHY NOT RING THE CHANGES AND TREAT YOUR
GUESTS TO SOMETHING NEW. CAROLINE BARTY CREATES SWEET AND SAVOURY BITES, MOST OF
WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN ADVANCE. ALL RECIPES MAKE 2025 CANAPES UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
PHOTOGRAPHS WILLIAM LINGWOOD | FOOD PREPARATION AND STYLING BRIDGET SARGESON
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS JOANNA SIMON | TABLE STYLING ALEXANDER BREEZE
COCONUT PRAWNS WITH SRIRACHA DIP 1 Place the rice, mirin, rice vinegar and Maldon salt 2 Dry fry the chorizo slices for 12 minutes each
The prawns and chilli dip can be prepared well in in a saucepan. Pour in 550ml water and bring to side until crispy. Drain on kitchen paper before
advance, but ideally fried just before serving. Youll the boil. Turn the heat down, cover with a lid and setting aside.
find sriracha in most supermarkets or online. simmer gently for 20 minutes. The rice should 3 Just before serving, heat the oven to 180C/
For the dip 1 large egg, beaten have absorbed the water and be tender with just a fan oven 160C/mark 4. Warm the peas for 810
250g mayonnaise 1tbsp milk little bite. Take off the heat, stir in the black sesame minutes and the chorizo for 5 minutes. Meanwhile,
1tbsp sriracha 50g desiccated seeds and leave covered for 10 minutes. Then take prepare and cook the scallops. Cut each one in half
sauce, plus extra coconut off the lid and leave to cool. horizontally (keep whole if you have 20 small
to serve (optional) 50g panko 2 With wet hands, mould the rice into little sushi- ones). Heat the oil in the frying pan over a high
1/2tbsp runny honey breadcrumbs shape cakes (about 2025 measuring about 4 x 3 heat and fry the scallops for 4050 seconds each
1tsp lime juice 20 jumbo raw x 2cm each). Place on non-stick baking parchment side. To assemble, place 1tsp pea pure on each
For the prawns peeled prawns and chill for 1 hour. spoon and top with a scallop.
1 heaped tbsp 2.5 litres oil 3 Cut the tuna into thin strips, large enough to just
plain flour for deep-frying cover the rice. Chill until ready to serve. You can CRISPY BEEF ON LETTUCE
1 Mix all the dip ingredients together in a bowl and prepare up to this stage 24 hours in advance. (Pictured on following page)
chill until ready to serve. 4 Heat about half the oil in a frying pan and fry the Kecap manis is a sweet Indonesian soy sauce. Make
2 For the prawns, mix the flour with a little salt and cakes in batches, adding more oil when needed, for the sauce and beef in advance and then stir them
freshly ground black pepper and place in a shallow 23 minutes each side until golden brown. Transfer together just before serving.
dish. Mix the beaten egg and milk in another dish to a plate. To serve, smear a little wasabi over the 34 baby peeled and
and, in a third dish, combine the coconut and surface of the cakes, top with a strip of tuna and gem lettuces finely chopped
breadcrumbs. Dip each prawn into the flour, then garnish with a little pickled ginger. 150ml sunflower 2 garlic cloves,
the egg, and finally roll in the breadcrumbs to coat. or rapeseed oil finely chopped
Place in a large dish. Repeat with all the prawns. SCALLOPS AND CHORIZO WITH PEA PUREE 3 spring onions, 1tbsp dry sherry
3 Pour the oil in a large saucepan or heat a deep- The peas and chorizo can be prepared well in trimmed and 3tbsp kecap
fat fryer to 180C. Deep-fry the prawns in small advance and heated through just before serving. finely sliced manis or sweet
batches for 23 minutes until cooked through. I serve these on canap spoons, which you can 1 small red chilli soy sauce
Drain on kitchen paper. Serve the prawns warm buy online from souschef.co.uk. (medium heat), 2tbsp soy sauce
with the dipping sauce, decorated if you wish with 15g butter 75g chorizo, deseeded and 4tbsp cornflour
a little extra sriracha. 6 spring onions, outer skin finely chopped 2tsp Chinese
trimmed and removed and 2.5cm piece five-spice powder
CRISP SUSHI CAKES WITH TUNA SASHIMI roughly sliced sliced into root ginger, 300g beef fillet
I have suggested wasabi paste and pickled ginger 200g frozen 3mm-thick rounds 1 Take 20 small leaves from the hearts of the
to accompany these sushi cakes, but you could petits pois 2tbsp olive oil lettuces if they are too big, they will be difficult to
add a little sliced avocado or deep-fried crispy 1tbsp chopped 10 fresh scallops eat. Place on a tray and chill until ready to assemble.
ginger shards instead. These cakes are also mint leaves without coral 2 Heat 1tbsp of oil in a wok (or large frying pan)
delicious served plain with soy sauce for dipping. 1tbsp crme frache (or 20, if small) and fry the spring onions, chilli, ginger and garlic
275g sushi rice 250g sushi- 1 Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the spring for 1 minute, stirring. Pour in the sherry, kecap
2tbsp mirin grade tuna onions and saut for 34 minutes. Add the petits manis and soy sauce, and bubble for a further
1tbsp rice vinegar 4tbsp sunflower pois and 2tbsp water, and cook for a further 68 minute. Transfer to a bowl and set aside, then
1/2tsp Maldon sea salt or rapeseed oil minutes. Take off the heat and stir in the mint and clean and dry the wok.
11/2tbsp black To serve crme frache. Season with salt and freshly ground 3 Mix the cornflour with the five-spice powder. Cut
roasted Wasabi paste and black pepper. Pure the peas in a food processor the beef into matchstick-size pieces, add to the
sesame seeds pickled ginger or with a stick blender. Chill until ready to serve. bowl and coat well with the flour mixture.

Above from left CRISPY BEEF ON LETTUCE, VERRINES OF GOATS CHEESE PANNA COTTA
4 Pour the remaining oil into the wok and heat until CODDLED QUAIL EGGS WITH SOLDIERS 1kg waxy potatoes, 2 large eggs,
a piece of beef dropped in sizzles immediately. Fry You can use small bowls, egg cups or little espresso such as Charlotte beaten
the beef in small batches for 1 minute, lift out with a cups (you will need 20). I sometimes sprinkle the 2tbsp rapeseed oil 260g Reblochon
slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. You can cream with a little cep powder (available from 1 onion, finely cheese, thinly sliced
prepare up to this stage about 2 hours in advance. souschef.co.uk) and, for a more savoury bite, you chopped 2tbsp finely
5 Before serving, mix the beef with the sauce and could spread some Gentlemans Relish on the toast. 225g cubed pancetta chopped chives
heap little piles of the beef into the lettuce leaves. 2tsp truffle oil or thyme, leaves only 1 Halve or quarter the potatoes if large and cook
vegetable oil 56 slices sourdough in a pan of lightly salted boiling water for 1520
VERRINES OF GOATS CHEESE PANNA COTTA 20 quail eggs bread or enough to minutes until just cooked through. Drain and leave
You can serve these in shot glasses, or transparent 200ml double cream make 20 soldiers to cool before scraping off the skins. Cut the
canap cups available online at souschef.co.uk. 10 sprigs fresh Butter, for spreading potatoes into smaller pieces, about 5mm square.
Makes enough to half-fill 20 x 60ml shot glasses. 1 Brush the egg cups with the oil and place on a Place in a mixing bowl.
4 leaves gelatine, 4 shakes of baking tray. Crack the eggs into the cups. Add 2tsp 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan and saut the onion
about 8g celery salt of cream into each cup, season with sea salt and for 10 minutes. Add the pancetta and saut for a
4 x 150ml tubs fresh To serve freshly ground black pepper and sprinkle over the further 10 minutes until golden. Cool slightly before
(soft) goats cheese Chilli jam, tapenade thyme. You can prepare the eggs at least 2 hours in mixing into the potatoes. Stir in the eggs and season
175ml natural yogurt or bacon jam and advance up to this stage, although if you refrigerate with freshly ground black pepper. You shouldnt
75ml mayonnaise basil leaves them, they may need extra cooking time. need any more salt.
1 Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 1015 2 Heat the oven to 180C/fan oven 160C/mark 4. 3 Heat the oven to 180C/fan oven 160C/mark 4.
minutes. Beat together the goats cheese, yogurt, While the oven is heating, start toasting the bread. Base-line a roasting tin, about 26 x 20cm, with
mayonnaise and celery salt. Cut off the crusts, spread with butter, cut into sold- non-stick baking parchment, allowing the paper to
2 Lift the gelatine out of the water and place in a iers and set aside. Place the eggs in the oven and come up the short sides this will make it easier to
small saucepan over a low heat until melted. Leave cook for 67 minutes check after 6 minutes with lift out the tartiflette once cooked. Tip the potato
for a minute, then slowly beat into the goats the base of a spoon. The whites should be slightly mixture into the tin and spread out to the edges,
cheese mixture. Fill a piping bag and pipe in firm. Serve with a soldier placed on each egg cup. patting down firmly and smoothing the surface.
enough mixture to half-fill the glasses, or spoon Arrange the cheese over the potatoes, covering
the mixture into the glasses if you prefer, though I TARTIFLETTE SQUARES the surface. Bake in the oven for 3035 minutes.
find it easiest with a piping bag. Place on a tray and (Pictured on following page) 4 Take out of the oven and leave for 1 hour before
refrigerate for at least 45 hours until set. You can make these in advance, cool them and cut cutting into squares. You should get about 2530.
3 To serve, garnish each verrine with the topping into squares. Before serving, heat for 5 minutes, at Sprinkle with chopped chives and serve warm with
of your choice and/or decorate with a basil leaf. 180C/fan oven 160C/mark 4. toothpicks so guests can pick up the squares.

CODDLED QUAIL
EGGS WITH SOLDIERS
From left TARTIFLETTE SQUARES, ROSE AND RASPBERRY

MARSHMALLOWS AND CARAMEL-DIPPED BISCOTTI
ROSE AND RASPBERRY MARSHMALLOWS the egg whites in a steady stream, continuously TO DRINK
Rose water can vary in strength, so start with 1tsp whisking for at least 10 minutes until the egg When I spent an evening eating 29 canaps created
and add a little more if the flavour is not strong whites become stiff and glossy. by the Spanish chef Ferran Adri, of El Bulli fame,
enough. You can buy freeze-dried raspberry pow- 3 Whisk in the rose water, taste, and add more if they were accompanied by Dom Prignon 2005
der and crystallised rose petals at souschef.co.uk. necessary for a stronger flavour, then lightly fold Champagne; 116, Berry Bros & Rudd (0800-280
You will also need a sugar thermometer. These in the raspberry powder and spoon the mixture 2440) and other merchants. This would be splendid
marshmallows can be made a day ahead. into the prepared tin. Smooth the surface and with any of the canaps here, but there are plenty
50g icing sugar, 2 large egg whites leave for 34 hours to set firm. of more affordable alternatives. The Co-operatives
sifted, plus extra 1-2tsp rose water 4 To serve, dust the surface of the marshmallows Les Pionniers Champagnes continue to shine
to serve 11/2tbsp freeze- with a little more of the icing sugar and cornflour above their price, both the non-vintage at 16.99
25g cornflour, sifted, dried raspberry mixture. Place a board on top and flip over. Lift and the 2006 at 24.99. Aldis attractive Philizot
plus extra to serve powder off the tin and peel off the parchment. Cut into Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut is an astonish-
8 sheets gelatine To decorate squares, about 30 depending on size, and deco- ing 9.97, or there is the vintage Philizot Veuve
400g sugar Crystallised rose rate with a crystallised rose petal if you wish. Monsigny Blanc de Blancs 2010 at 19.99.
45ml liquid glucose petals (optional) Among other sparkling wines, Aldi scores with its
1 Base-line a 30 x 20cm tin with non-stick baking CARAMEL-DIPPED BISCOTTI Philippe Michel Crmant du Jura, 7.29. Yapp
parchment. In a bowl, mix together the icing sugar You can buy Valrhona Blond Dulcey chocolate Brothers (01747-860423) Domaine Collin Crmant
and cornflour, then lightly dust the parchment online, but you could dip the biscotti into dark or de Limoux Brut Cuve Selection, 12.50, is a jump
with about 2tbsp. Soak the gelatine in 180ml cold milk chocolate if you prefer. up in quality. For a superior Prosecco, try Majestics
water for 1015 minutes. 150g Valrhona Blond 20 almond Salatin Extra Dry Treviso Prosecco, 12.99.
2 Put the sugar, liquid glucose and 100ml water in Dulcey chocolate, biscotti (cantucci) Still white wines should be crisp, dry or just off-dry,
a saucepan and place over a low heat until the roughly chopped biscuits and not too acid,heavy or oaky: Sainsburys Taste
sugar dissolves. Then turn up the heat and boil 1 Place the chocolate in a pudding basin and fit the Difference Languedoc White 2014, 8, fits the
until the syrup reaches 121C on a sugar ther- over a saucepan filled with 23cm barely simmer- bill, as does Corney & Barrows (020-7265 2430)
mometer. Meanwhile, using an electric whisk in a ing water. Stir until melted, then take off the heat lighter and zestier Blanc 2014, a Ctes de Gascogne,
large, heatproof bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff and leave the chocolate until cool. 7.50. Red wines should not be tannic, heavy or oaky.
peaks. When the sugar syrup has reached the 2 Dip the base of each biscuit into the chocolate, Pinot Noir is a good choice, such as Marks & Spen-
correct temperature, take off the heat and add the allow any excess to drip off, then place top down on cers Palataia Pinot Noir 2014 from Germany, 10,
gelatine and its soaking water. Swirl the saucepan a wire rack, so the chocolate layer is facing up. or Blind Spot Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2014 from
to combine. Immediately pour the syrup into Leave until the chocolate has set hard. Australia, 9.50, The Wine Society (01438-741177)

WINE & FOOD | SIMPLE SUPPERS
f o o d f or f r iends
LOUISA CARTER SUGGESTS STRESS-FREE DISHES IDEAL FOR ENTERTAINING A VEGETARIAN
MAIN COURSE AND A SIMPLY DELICIOUS SPONGE FOR DESSERT. ALL RECIPES SERVE 6
ROOT VEGETABLE AND CHESTNUT GRATIN CHESTNUTS SEMOLINA CAKE

This hearty vegetarian main course can be prepared a day or two ahead Vacuum-packed peeled This all-in-one method is easiest
(keep the Gruyre topping separate and sprinkle on just before cooking). and cooked chestnuts, in a food processor, but you can
All root vegetables work well try parsnips, swede or celeriac and mix available in most use a hand-held electric whisk.
thyme, parsley or rosemary with the sage. For extra flavour, stir in a table- supermarkets, save the It also works without almonds.
spoon each of mustard, balsamic vinegar and honey when adding the tamari. laborious, if charming, Serve warm or at room temper-
For the vegetables 350g carrots, cut into 2cm slices 350g task of preparing them ature, with crme frache and
butternut squash, cut into 2cm chunks 2 large leeks, halved yourself. Here are a few poached fruit or fruit compte.
lengthways and rinsed of grit, cut into 2cm slices 1tbsp vegetable suggestions for using 3 large eggs 200g
stock powder or 1 stock cube 2tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, thinly them. Toss in a pan softened butter 200g
sliced 200g mushrooms, quartered 200g ready-cooked, peeled with cubes of bacon or soft brown sugar 100g
chestnuts, roughly chopped 1015 sage leaves, finely chopped pancetta, then add to a fine semolina or polenta
For the sauce 50g butter 30g plain flour 1tbsp tamari or winter salad, roasted 100g plain flour (or half
dark soy sauce For the topping 100g aged Gruyre, grated root vegetables or lightly wholemeal, half white)
75g walnuts, finely chopped 1015 sage leaves, finely chopped cooked Brussels sprouts. 100g ground almonds
75g coarse breadcrumbs, e.g. ciabatta 4tbsp olive oil Stir into a beef and ale 11/2tsp baking powder 1tsp
1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan oven 180C/mark 6 and prepare the veget- (or red wine) casserole, vanilla extract 1 large
ables. Bring 1.5 litres of water to the boil in a large saucepan. Stir in the stock or mix with mushrooms orange, finely grated zest
powder, add the carrots and squash and boil for 15 minutes. Add the leeks and juice 34tbsp milk
in a pie. Fry in a pan
and boil for a further 5 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking liquor (leave icing sugar, for dusting
with a tin of chopped
to cool slightly). Tip the vegetables into a gratin dish, roughly 35 x 25cm. anchovies and an onion, 1 Heat the oven to 180C/fan
2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the onions and use to stuff a shoulder oven 160/mark 4. Line a 25cm
for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and fry for 5 minutes more until or leg of pork. Use in cake tin with baking parchment.
browned. Add to the gratin dish with the chestnuts and sage. soups, such as roasted 2 Crack the eggs into a food
3 For the sauce, return the frying pan to a low-medium heat and melt the butternut squash or processor and add all the rem-
butter, then stir in the flour to form a smooth paste. Gradually whisk in parsnip, perhaps with aining ingredients apart from
750ml of the reserved cooking liquor and simmer for 5 minutes, continually the milk and icing sugar. Blend
a little apple, or enrich
whisking, until thickened and smooth, adding more of the cooking liquor if to a smooth batter that easily
a mushroom soup made
needed to give the consistency of single cream. Whisk in the tamari, season drops off a spoon, adding in
with dried porcini and
with salt and black pepper, then pour over the vegetables and stir gently. 34tbsp of milk or more if it is
a splash of Madeira.
4 Mix all the topping ingredients together, apart from the oil, and scatter needed to ensure it is not too
over the vegetables and sauce. Drizzle over the oil and bake for 4050 stiff. Pour into the tin, smooth
minutes until golden brown and bubbling at the edges. down gently and bake for 40
minutes, or until golden and just
firm to the touch in the middle.
3 Cool in the tin, before dusting
generously with icing sugar
OLA O SMIT

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T R AV E L
AU S T R A L I A | B R A Z I L | M I L A N
An aerial view
of a Great
Southern Rail
train making
its way through
the Australian
scenery
Vi e w fr o m t he t r ac ks
IN THE FIRST OF A NEW SERIES ON JOURNEYS, PETER HUGHES ENJOYS A LEISURELY PASSAGE BY
TRAIN FROM ADELAIDE TO SYDNEY, TAKING IN THE VISTAS AND VINEYARDS ALONG THE WAY
hey called it the baby train because it had only 20 coaches; these days is a delivery system. This was travel, in touch with the land in every
T
the biggest have up to 35 and are around a kilometre long. sense. By air, I wouldnt have had a day among the Barossa vineyards a new
As it was, we still had to board in a special terminal in excursion from the train. We sniffed, swirled and savoured wines at two
Adelaides rail freight area. There is a presence about big cellars, before lunching at Maggie Beers Farm Shop, something of a foodie
trains: just standing in the station they have a hauteur. And shrine in Australia, thanks to Maggies many TV appearances.
big trains have names this was the Indian Pacific. Its We stopped in the middle of the Outback for another tour at Broken Hill a
coaches, now nearly 50 years old but recently refurbished, are tall and silvery remote and weirdly romantic mining town of frilly Victorian architecture,
and hauled by two hulking locomotives. The route, between Perth in the west which attracts as many artists as miners these days. Above the town, mounted
and Sydney, 2,700 miles to the east, runs like a Plimsoll line along the bottom on a hill, stands a sombre memorial to 814 miners who died in accidents, the
of Australia. It traverses two pages of the atlas and takes almost five days to first in 1885. On the train, tea was served in the cabin. The track, until now
do so. The trains name comes from the oceans at either end. varnish smooth, began to fidget and wriggle. A bit rocky isnt it, said Gloria, my
I joined in Adelaide, three days into the journey from Perth, and travelled in stewardess, as she collected the tray. Cloistered in air-conditioned unreality,
style in platinum service. My cabin had a shower and loo, and a rather upright we charged across an arid heath of orange sand. A low range of sunburned
banquette that became a firm double bed at night. Gold service cabins are hills sprawled on the horizon. That night, the rails felt rough and knobbly.
half the size and mostly have bunks. Red service has reclining seats, communal And so to Sydney, Australias most vibrant city. It may have the energy
showers and a caf. In platinum, you have a lounge car and a separate restau- of New York, the climate of Cannes and a setting as spectacular as San
rant serving unfancy fare, such as lamb Franciscos, but our approach was sylvan.
shanks with mashed potato and gravy. In the morning, the windows opened
We trundled out of Adelaide, quickly Peter Hughes was a guest of Great Southern Rail (great on hills shaggy with pasture. The train was
exchanging the tower cranes in the city southernrail.com.au). Advance tickets for Adelaide to Sydney, climbing into the Blue Mountains. Outside
centre for gum trees and sparse grass- booked at least six months ahead, start at $AUS739 (about there were cows and cockatoos, woods
land. It would take another 1,058 miles 350) for gold and $AUS1,299 (about 620) for platinum. and water streams, ponds and puddles
and 24 hours to reach Sydney. By air, Platinum fares include all local transfers to and from the train. in the lanes. Gloria served me breakfast.
it takes a twelfth of the time, but flying Sydney awaited

Go in g t h e d i sta n c e
LAUREN HOLMES, WHO MOVED TO BRAZIL SEVEN YEARS AGO, REVELS IN THE PLEASURES
OF REMOTE SPOTS THAT REMIND HER OF THE COUNTRY SHE FELL IN LOVE WITH
ts hard not to fall head over heels for Brazil; the first time I came islands intimate atmosphere and pristine beaches. The only way to get to
I
here on holiday, I never left. It must have been a man, most say, Morer, the friendliest of fishing villages on the southern tip, is by tractor,
but no, it was the tropical vibrancy, unstoppable sunshine and and as it trundles through the Mata Atlntica rainforest, the journey rocks
infectious smiles that took hold and wouldnt let go. Twice the you into the rhythm of island time. Here, a handful of foreign-run pousadas
size of the European Union, Brazils vast borders promised the (small B&Bs or guesthouses) cater to travellers looking to sleep within stroll-
greatest of adventures. As a means to explore, I wrote, building ing distance of half-moon beaches, with not a soul or settlement in site. At
a web of knowledge soon put to use planning trips of a lifetime the intimate, three-bungalow eco-pousada Casa Bob, bountiful breakfasts
for friends: helicopter rides over Rio sunsets; road trips blazing are served with 360-degree views across virgin jungle, as Spanish owner
by Bahian beaches; and family cruises deep into the Amazon. But, in truth, Myriam coordinates ayurvedic massages and surf lessons.
in seven years, Brazil has changed. While the recent economic boom ignited Yet my favourite new discovery was the four-bedroom Casa Arasy, the
the countrys first internal package tours, international headlines from host- dreamiest of beach houses, custom-built from reclaimed wood with sweeping
ing world events put even those undiscovered surf villages on the global sea vistas, private beach access and wonderful staff to bargain with fisherman
map. Now, to skip the tourist show, you need to dig deeper. This trip was a for buckets of fresh lobster. On our last day, we take a little boat to Panthers
search for authenticity, the raw warmth of Brazil that I first fell for. Cove, stopping off at a makeshift bar set up on a sandbank in the middle of
We start in Brazils first capital, Salvador: part Africa, part colonial Portugal, the sea. As we are leaving the only lunch spot around, after snapper and
its rich heritage tumbles into a carnival for the senses. Yet, if the postcard- slow-cooked black beans, the owner hands us a giant conch shell, saying,
perfect Pelourinho, Salvadors historic centre, seems staged for show, its This is for you to remember us by, so that you come back.
along the beachfront promenade of bohemian Rio Vermelho where real life If Morer is Brazils ultimate secret beach destination, then Reserva do
plays out. December 2014 saw the opening of Casa do Rio Vermelho, a new Ibitipoca, a colonial guest house set in a 4,000 hectare private nature reserve,
interactive museum in the former home of author Jorge Amado, while at is its countryside counterpart. It takes a flight from Salvador, followed by a
multi-performance space Ll, theres the chatter of cultural revival, artists four-hour drive through the hills of Minas Gerais to get there. You would not
spilling onto the street for sangria and squid-ink rice at nearby La Taperia. stumble across this place, but that is much of the point. With a fully sustainable
We check into Zank hotel, where colonial high ceilings tower over butter- organic kitchen, the hotel is just a small part of commodity magnate and eco-
leather armchairs and french windows open onto snatches of the azure-blue warrior Renato Machados vision for the reserve, intended to create jobs while
bay, white hammocks lilting in the breeze. One stop impossible to miss is reforesting the natural habitat of the highly endangered muriqui monkey.
Paraso Tropical for lunch. Here agronomist chef Beto plucks tropical fruits While eight generous rooms overlooking a great lake ensure prize-worthy
from his organic orchard for Brazils best moqueca (salt-water fish stew) sleep, its the personalised service that really leaves its mark. Customised
served with coconut caipirinhas so good that we almost miss the Museu de adventures such as hiking or riding are interwoven with cocktails at secluded
Arte Moderna da Bahia where, every Saturday, live jazz draws the citys waterfalls and hot baths lit by candles. This owes much to the fact that the staff
bohemians to toast the orange sun sinking into the sea. themselves own the hotel, passed to them by Renato in a progressive approach
Dawn breaks the next day with a 20-minute flight by Cessna over tur- to service and sustainability. As Brazil stumbles into recession and the tum-
quoise oceans to land among coconut plantations on the idyllic, car-free bling currency makes the country more accessible for foreign travel, projects
island of Boipeba, a journey that takes over five and people such as this highlight a new path, a
hours by road and boat. This inaccessibility has THIS PAGE The guest house Reserva do Ibitipoca return to Brazils natural richness and the purity
thus far provided a golden shield, protecting the is set in a 4,000-hectare private nature reserve. of spirit that lies beneath the surface
OPPOSITE One of the well-preserved beaches
on the tranquil island of Boipeba

Lauren Holmes travelled
as a guest of Plan South
America (020-7993 6930;
plansouthamerica.com), which
offers a 10-night trip from 4,203,
including two nights in Salvador,
four nights in Boipeba at Casa
Arasy, and four nights at Reserva
do Ibitipoca full-board, internal
flights, return light aircraft to
Boipeba and private transfers, but
excludes international flights.
MILLA KONTKANEN/ALAMY
TRAVEL | DESIGNER HAUNTS
FROM FAR LEFT

The courtyard of
Rossana Orlandi.
Piero Castellini.
A view of the city
from its cathedral.
Fornasetti ceramics
(also centre)
SHOPPING
Zona Corso Magenta, one of the oldest parts of Milan and
most famous for Leonardo da Vincis sublime depiction of
The Last Supper in the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie,
has always been my familys base. My fabric and textile
showroom C&C Milano (cec-milano.com) and neighbouring
ask a local
Son Milano (sonmilano.com), for my furniture and design
accessories, are both in this area, on via Zenale. In my view,
Rossana Orlandi (rossanaorlandi.com) is a true creative
genius and Milans greatest champion of contemporary
design. Her eponymous gallery and shop, with a sun-
dappled courtyard and caf at the back, showcases unique
milan
PIERO CASTELLINI OF THE ITALIAN FABRIC HOUSE
C&C MILANO OFFERS TIPS ON THE MOST STYLISH
PLACES TO SHOP, EAT AND DRINK IN HIS HOME CITY
or limited-edition works from international emerging
talent. In beautiful Piazza Tommaseo the magnolias in PHOTOGRAPHS JOSHUA MONAGHAN
spring are spectacular sister brands Pupi Solari for
womenswear and childrens clothes and Host for menswear
(pupisolari.com) are the citys fashion benchmarks.
Brera, Milans former artistic and bohemian quarter, is
known for its cobbled streets and cornucopia of shops
and bars. There are numerous browsing opportunities, but
two of my favourites are the Boffi Solferino kitchen and
bathroom showroom (boffi-solferino.com) an architectural
and design masterpiece and the Fornasetti store
(fornasetti.com), where the whimsical, surreal
decorative creations of Piero Fornasetti are now overseen
by his son, Barnaba a good friend of mine. I always enjoy
a visit to Il Segno del Tempo (ilsegnodeltempo.com),
a brilliantly eccentric shop for canes, walking sticks,
FOOD AND DRINK
After a huge restoration project, Leonardos Vineyard
industrial furniture, sculpture and one-off design pieces. For
(vignadileonardo.com) opened this year for Expo
fashion, I go to Massimo Alba (massimoalba.com).
Milano 2015. Combine a trip there and to the wonderful
Revitalised for Expo Milano 2015, the harbour and canal area
Renaissance Casa degli Atellani with breakfast or a light
around Darsena and Porta Genova is the trendiest part of
lunch at the newly opened caf. In Brera, La Latteria
the city for the young designer crowd. Via Savona and via
San Marco is a traditional Milanese trattoria, where the
Tortona are the hub for shops, studios, bars and restaurants.
welcome is warm and the food superb. Try the risotto
For fabulous furniture and accessories in bronze and brass,
allarturo, with its cold, freshly squeezed tomato sauce, or
I go to Carati Ambrogio (caratibronzista.com). For lighting,
the delicious spaghetti al limone. Langosteria 10 on via
nowhere is better than G B Tansini (tansinigb.it), which has
Savona (langosteria10.it) is one of the best fish restaurants
a showroom at viale dAnnunzio Gabriele and a warehouse
in Milan, offering a huge variety of super-fresh seafood in
on the edge of the city with thousands of chandeliers.
an attractive environment. Dont miss Porta Genovas lively
Metropolitan Market (mercatometropolitano.com) for
amazing produce, regional specialities and street food.
ANTICLOCKWISE FROM
RIGHT The citys tram ACCOMMODATION
network, established in A stones throw from La Scala, the Mandarin Oriental
1881, now covers 170 (mandarinoriental.com/milan) is Milans new hotspot.
kilometres. A selection Architecture and interiors overseen by design maestro
of childrens clothes in Antonio Citterio are at the heart of the hotel but, for wow
Pupi Solari. At La Latteria factor, check out the geometric-patterned Mandarin Bar
San Marco, spaghetti al Bistro. Double rooms start at about 600
limone is a speciality

stoc k i sts
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press, but House & Garden cannot guarantee that prices will not change or items will be in stock at the time of publication.
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Classics in Colour Interiors Directory
Property for Sale
HUGE SAVINGS Herdades Nespereira & Moinho Velho
ON FABRICS Ancient Estate For Sale Comprising of 6
Stylish Eco Friendly Luxury Villas and 240
AND WALLPAPER Hectares in SW Costal Portugal.
Bespoke Roman Blinds,

Curtains & Cushions
DB Interiors Ltd
Tel: 0207 228 4384

Making Interiors Work
Quote Ref HG6
+44 (0)20 8675 1099

TOP DESIGNER www.landportugal.com @
Fabric & UK Travel The UKs leading shutter

expert for over 27 years
Wallpaper CREEKSIDE COTTAGES
The Foreshore, Nr Falmouth,
Showroom:
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service and prices For complete peace and Fulham
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A beautifully landscaped, gently 0207 751 0937
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01326 375972
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Fabrics | Wallpaper | Furniture |
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stock. 0845 475 1630
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Addison Road
Holland Park W14
A stunning example of a 19th century detached period family house with an extraordinary triple height former artists studio.
Impressive Formal Drawing Room Dining Room/Library Large Family Reception Room Two Kitchens
Master Suite with Two Bathrooms and Two Dressing Rooms Six Further Bedrooms Three Bathrooms
Guest Cloakrooms Separate Ofce and Garage EPC Rating F
F R E E H OLD JS A K nig h t Fr a nk 020 7938 4311 P R IC E ON A P P L I C AT I O N
020-7225 0277
www.russellsimpson.co.uk
Glebe Place
Chelsea SW3
Situated on one of the most sought after and beautiful streets in Chelsea, this immaculate Victorian house on Glebe Place features
one of the most spectacular contemporary interiors ever seen in the area.
Entrance Hall/Study Double Height Drawing Room Dining Room Cinema Room/Family Room Kitchen Master Bedroom with Dressing Room and
Bathroom Ensuite Two Further Bedrooms with Bathrooms Ensuite Bedroom Four Bedroom Five/Sitting Room Bathroom Kitchenette Staff Bedroom
Shower Room Laundry Room/Service Kitchen Two Cloakrooms Front Garden 32ft (9.7m) West Facing Rear Garden EPC Rating E
F R E E H OLD JS A Rok s t one 020 7580 2030 P R IC E O N A P P L I C AT I O N
020-7225 0277
www.russellsimpson.co.uk
condenastjohansens.com
El Fenn, Morocco
ADVERTISING FEATURE
Building on success
Its not what you know but who you know, they say; but in our case, its both
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David Forbes set up The Private While David forges the links that But a signicant amount of his busi-
Ofce in 2008 to provide discreet match clients with opportunities in ness is conducted below the radar
access to Savills comprehensive the top echelons of London and as four out of ve sales conducted
range of expertise via a boutique- international real estate, Crispin are ones he cannot talk about.
scale, highly personalised service; Holborow and Ned Baring provide
and to forge contacts between the transactional expertise in their Ned handles the prime London
high-end clients and the worlds respective specialisms. new-build residential developments,
most prominent wealth advisers, his impressive track record includes
developers and nancial institutions. Formerly Head of Savills Country sales of such agship developments
We have cultivated the most inuen- Department and Farm Agency, as One Hyde Park and the Chelsea
tial intermediaries in all sectors of real Crispin has unrivalled knowledge of Barracks.
estate, he says, so we can present the UKs nest country houses, farms
property opportunities to the most and estates and their owners. His
discerning global audience. successes include the sales of the
David Forbes
highest-value estates ever to have +44 (0) 203 320 8293
Whatever your real estate request, been sold in the UK. [email protected]
Savills Private Ofce can accom-
modate it with guaranteed discretion
and privacy and their ever-growing
client base is testament to the
success of the department.
Ned Baring
+44 (0) 20 7409 9998
[email protected]

Crispin Holborow
+44 (0) 20 7409 8881 We have cultivated
[email protected]
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intermediaries in all sectors of
real estate, so we can present property
opportunities to the most discerning global audience
Nr Valbonne, France.
Price on Application
He continues to strengthen trusting

relationships with many of Londons
key investors and signicant interna-
tional agencies and plays a key role in
the marketing of Prime Central
London developments in the Far
East, Russia and the Middle East
where he travels frequently.
The Private Ofce reaches across

borders and markets, and is unique
in its scope and its capability, har-
nessing the prole and knowledge
of Savills 600-plus ofces and
Chelsea Barracks, London SW1. associates in 47 countries. Through
Price on Application a single, dedicated contact, clients
can access not only the worlds nest
Dowdeswell House, The Cotswolds.
properties but also the hugely diverse
Guide 5.5 million range of advice and expertise that
Savills offers. Its this combination of
complete focus and broad vision that
sets The Private Ofce apart.
Please get in touch today to find

out how the team can help you.
savills.co.uk
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featured in the BBCs
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through Savills (01285
627550) for 1,695,000
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Imagery includes optional
upgrades at additional cost
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*Plot Specic and subject to availability. Digital illustration is indicative only. Photography shown is of Albert Crescent Show Home. Pricing correct at time of going to press.
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45 Charles Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5EH E: [email protected]

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Computer generated image is indicative only. Views are indicative only and available from select apartments. *Price correct at time of going to press.
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SE1
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Prices from 730,000
Digital illustration is indicative only. Price correct at time of going to press.

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Kew, Richmond 9,000,000
Majestic Victorian residence of immense stature wonderfully refurbished to an
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TASTEMAKER
1
1
THE DOS AND

DONTS OF
DECORATING,
ACCORDING TO
2
Alidad
The former specialist in Islamic art and textiles at Sothebys
is known for designing richly ornate yet comfortable interiors
Try to imagine the female line of your family, for several generations,
living in your house. Perhaps the dining table was moved up into the study 2
a generation ago, or maybe there is still a room with your grandparents
wallpaper. This kind of historical play-acting can help
to create rooms with a sense of history and imagina- Being detail-obsessed is no
tion. (1) Dont be afraid to experiment with surface
textures and finishes. Mix them to make a scheme, use if you cant zoom out
just as you would with fabrics. (2) A big mistake is
when rooms are created to be seen and not used. and see the overall effect
6 You need somewhere to put your cup of tea and
of the decisions you make
good light to read by. Britain is the best country in
1 A drawing room in Beirut, designed by the world, except for one thing: the weather. Use
Alidad, reflects the owners family history. chenilles, velvets and textured fabrics to create warm, protective rooms. (3)
2 Alidad has combined a variety of Cover the main, large surfaces in your rooms in plain fabrics, then use 3
textures to beautiful effect in this London cushions, rugs and ceramics to add pattern. This way, it is easy to control
bathroom. 3 Red fabrics create a warm the proportions. (4) Being detail-obsessed is no use if you cant zoom
feeling in this bedroom. 4 Alidads own out. You need to be able to see the overall effect of the interiors decisions
drawing room is a lesson in balancing you are making. Do a furniture floor plan before anything else. Use a
patterns with plains. 5 An example of scale ruler and cut little squares of paper to represent the chairs and sofa.
the type of floor plan the designer uses. The plug sockets will be in the right places, and there are no awkward fits.
6 Alidad has repurposed an antique rug (5) Consider all five senses. The eye is first, but touch confirms that, yes,
as a tablecloth in this London hallway this sofa is a wonderful chenille, and from there you can introduce scents
or soft music, and tiny nibbles placed about the room. Dont be nervous
about working with antique textiles these things were supposed to be
used and dont worry about getting the period or context correct. I like to
5 use antique rugs as tablecloths. (6) Houses are not museums. If someone 4
wants a house to be exactly, say, 1750s, that project will not give me pleasure.
AS TOLD TO RUTH SLEIGHTHOLME. JAMES MCDONALD; PIXELATE; SIMON UPTON
You have to let that academic stuff go. alidad.com

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Please turn the page to view Supplement
January
2016
D E S T I N AT I O N S produced by
BESPOKE
IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE
QATAR TOURISM AUTHORITY
BLUE-SKY THINKING
THE MALDIVES MAURITIUS SRI LANKA
AUSTRALIA INDONESIA
GREAT ADVENTURES
SKIING IN JAPAN
YUNNAN THROUGH THE LENS
FAY MASCHLERS CULINARY RAJASTHAN
CRUISING THE GALAPAGOS
T H E E S S E N T I A L I N S P I R A T I O N F O R Y O U R T R AV E L S I N 2 0 1 6
Katara Cultural Village, Doha
It takes a village.
Katara - our first and most ancient name.
Where the worlds cultures come together as one.
www.qatartourism.gov.qa
CARRIER
COLLECTION
2016/17
Carrier specialises in luxury
tailor-made holidays worldwide.
Service is personal, flexible
and haute couture.
www.carrier.co.uk/hg
Boulevard elegance
in the heart of Kensington
doylecollection.com/kensington
CAYMAN BRAC
LITTLE CAYMAN
GRAND CAYMAN
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ca ymanislands.co.uk
Little Cayman.
Population 197.
Paradise found.
D E S T I N AT I O N S
CONTENTS
13 WINTER SUN
From the Grenadines to Sri Lanka, 78 CALL OF THE WILD
Mauritius to the Maldives, the sun is Africas finest safari experiences, from
flycamping in Namibia to Mt Kenya by air
shining and its time to plan your escape
29 ROLL ON THE NEWYEAR 43 A TASTE OF FRANCE 80 SKI AND SUSHI

Whats on our travel radar for 2016
Chef Raymond Blancs favourite travel
finds from across his home country
61 SECRET ITALY Forget fondue, its fresh seafood that
Four weekend escapes in the bel paese fuels days on the slopes in Niseko, Japan
where the tourists just wont follow
31 HOW WE TRAVEL 48 SEASONAL SAILINGS 84 TRAVEL CALENDAR
House & Gardens travel editor Pamela Our global guide to the right places
Goodman on collecting experiences to cruise in the right season 67 A TASTE OF RAJASTHAN Essential dates for your diary in 2016
Fay Maschler rediscovers the India of
52 CRUISING IN THE her childhood, in all its enticing flavours 88 COMPETITION

37 THE GREAT OUTDOORS Win a luxury, 11night holiday for two
A century of aweinspiring landscapes GALAPAGOS 70 TOUCHING THE SKY
TOM PARKER; MARK PARREN TAYLOR; NISEKO PROMOTION BOARD
to the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

across the USA. Plus, technology to A journey by luxury expedition ship On Chinas southwest frontier, Yunnan PRODUCED BY
make your travels more comfortable into the crucible of evolution is the setting for a breathtaking trip
BESPOKE
38 ACTIVE RELAXATION 56 BEST BY BOAT 77 DOUBLE TAKE BLUE-SKY THINKING

THE MALDIVES MAURITIUS SRI LANKA
AUSTRALIA INDONESIA
BESPOKE
The tropical resorts where you can trade For some great destinations, only a A twocentre safari holiday in South Africa GREAT ADVENTURES
SKIING IN JAPAN
Cover: Huvadhoo Atoll, Maldives,

YUNNAN THROUGH THE LENS
FAY MASCHLERS CULINARY RAJASTHAN
CRUISING THE GALAPAGOS
your sunlounger for the jungle gym ship will do - we choose five of the best and Benguerra Island, Mozambique T H E E S S E N T I A L I N S P I R A T I O N F O R Y O U R T R AV E L S I N 2 0 1 6
by John Seaton Callahan/Getty
HEAD OF BESPOKE Zo Levey ART DIRECTOR Petra ManleyLeach SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Kate Crockett
PROJECTS MANAGER, BESPOKE Louisa Parker Bowles ACTING PROJECTS MANAGER, BESPOKE Natasha Long RETAIL AND PROMOTIONS EDITOR Carole Annett
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Kate Slesinger ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Lucy Walford ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Emma Hiley SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Emily Elliott SENIOR ACCOUNT>
MANAGER Francesca LondooBrasington TRAVEL SALES EXECUTIVE Marina Connolly REGIONAL OFFICE SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Heather Mitchell
000
WELCOME
HAND-PICKED VILLAS
SOUGHT AFTER LOCATIONS EDITORS LETTER
TAILOR MADE SERVICE
Welcome to House & Gardens new annual travel
supplement, Destinations, in association with the
Qatar Tourism Authority. If its dropped into your
lap at just that time of year when you are dreaming
of warmer climes or mapping out your travels for
2016, were condent youll nd all the inspiration
you need right here - starting with those sunnier spots. Weve picked the
brains of travel experts to reveal whats new in our favourite yandop
destinations, while one writer hops on board a new expedition ship to the
Galpagos. If ski rather than sun is your winter ritual, how about considering
Japan, where deep powder and fresh seafood are the order of the day?
More cultural adventures come in the form of a journey through Yunnan,
while restaurant critic Fay Maschler tastes her way around Rajasthan. Our
travel calendar offers a wealth of ideas for the next 12 months, and, lastly,
dont miss your chance to win a luxury trip to the Great
Barrier Reef - one of our top destinations for 2016.
CONTRIBUTORS
Pamela Goodman House & Gardens
travel editor of 23 years shares her expertise with
Destinations, giving her thoughts on how we travel
to gather experiences (p31); on Mozambique, one
of our top spots for 2016 (p77), and on whats
new in African safaris (p78).
On Pammys bucket list for 2016 Ethiopia and New Zealand -
New Zealand has topped my list for as long as I can remember.
2016 may not be the year I pull it off, but Ill keep dreaming.
Chris Caldicott As Expedition

PhotographerinResidence to the Royal
Geographical Society, Chris travelled to some of the
most wild and inaccessible places on earth. Now an
author, lecturer and photographer, Chris made his
rst trip to the Galpagos for Destinations (p52).
On Chriss bucket list for 2016 The tropical islands of southern Japan,
the Mangoky River in Madagascar and Borobudur in Java.
Fay Maschler MBE Born in a

Himalayan hill station, Fay grew up in Britain and
the USA. Initially a copywriter at JWT London, she
moved to the Radio Times and then to the Evening
Standard where she has been restaurant critic for
the past 43 years. Fay returned to India for
Destinations to rediscover, and share, the culinary gems of Rajasthan (p67).
On Fays bucket list for 2016 Trieste, Vancouver, Japan and the
Stockholm Archipelago.
Sybil Kapoor An awardwinning food

and cookery writer, Sybil fell in love with travel
Call our travel experts now on writing when House & Garden sent her on an
epicurean adventure to Denmark in 2009. Since
020 7563 7996 then Sybil has used it as an excuse to travel (and
www.cvvillas.com eat) her way around the world. For Destinations,
Sybil journeys to the mountains of Yunnan, China (p70).
On Sybils bucket list for 2016 The Dazu Rock carvings in Sichuan,
China and the Al Hajar mountains, Oman.
TE N
TEN YEARS O F O N E & O N LY R E E T H I R A H
Ten months of extraordinary celebrations
TO CELEBRATE OUR FIRST
TEN YEARS, WERE ADDING TO
OUR EXCEPTIONAL GUEST LIST
Thank you to all our guests for ten years of unforgettable memories.
To commemorate, we have curated a programme of extraordinary culinary,

fashion, wellness and fitness experiences, along with a dash of decadence.
To discover the full calendar of events, please visit

ooreethirahten.com
We look forward to celebrating ten years with

our most cherished guests and friends.
FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL, EMAIL OR VISIT:

+960 664 8800 [email protected]
REETHIRAH.ONEANDONLYRESORTS.COM
TAKE THE
PATH LESS
TRAVELLED
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For more information please call Silversea on 0844 579 6729,
visit Silversea.com or contact your travel agent.
WINTER SUN
Setting
a course
for the sun
EUROPEAN SKIES MAY BE GREY, BUT SOMEWHERE IN THE WORLD
JOHN LAURIE
THERES A SUNLOUNGER WITH YOUR NAME ON IT. LET US INSPIRE YOU

WITH A FRESH LOOK AT SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE WINTER SUN SPOTS
13
WINTER SUN
14
Mauritius
From trekking in Black River Gorges national park, to cycling in the mountains or
kitesurfing in the south west in the shadow of Le Morne (pictured), Mauritius is not just
flop and drop. There is so much more to do, says Mauritius expert Susie Freeman, of
Susie Freeman Travel. Quite a few hotels offer complimentary golf and all offer inclusive
water sports. With cleanedup roads and new motorways (and driving on the left),
it is easier than ever to explore this multifaceted island.
Among Mauritiuss legendary hotels, the chatter this winter is about Le Touessrok Spa
& Resort, which has been revamped by ShangriLa. As well as many active options
(wakeboarding, sailing, parasailing), it offers guided horse riding by night through the
forests for a more sedate encounter with the natural surroundings.
WHEN TO GO Mauritius is a yearround destination, but high season is October to April.
The winter season (May to August) is reflected in the prices. At this time, the west coast is
lovely as the sea is still warm and it is sheltered from the southeast trade winds.
ANTON PETRUS/GETTY IMAGES
15
WINTER SUN
Southern Sri Lanka

Beyond the beaches, 2016 is the year to see Sri Lanka through fresh eyes, be
that by hiking in the Knuckles range north of Kandy, boogie boarding or surfing off
the southern tip (pictured) or doing treetop yoga in the new Tri eco resort beside
Koggala Lake. Travel throughout the country has become quicker and easier thanks
to an expanded network from privately owned air taxi service Cinnamon Air.
Stretching along the southeast coast, Kumana National Park has all the
wildlife and drama of Yala, without the crowds. Leopard sightings are closeup
and lingering; birdlife is prolific. Specialist tour operator Ampersand Travel has
launched a secret mobile safari within the park, including flycamps on beaches
and riversides. Ampersands founder James Jayasundera recommends visiting off
season. People think rain is bad but, in the tropics, the rain is warm, dramatic and
shortlived. To swim in the sea when its raining, when the sea is like a warm bath,
is a euphoric experience. A new way to discover Sri Lanka indeed.
WHEN TO GO Peak season is December to April but another great time to visit is
August and September when the island is at its best and there are no monsoons;
prices also fall in September.
TOM PARKER
16
Africa / Arabian Gulf / Asia / Australasia / The Americas (Canada, South America, USA) / Caribbean & Mexico
Europe / Indian Ocean / Luxury Villas, Yachts & Private Islands / Luxury Cruise / Luxury Ski / Space Travel
Elegant Resorts, the UKs leading luxury tour operator, provides exceptional client service and
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ORFDWHGDFURVVWZRLVODQGVLQWKH0DOGLYHV6DYRXUJRXUPHWFXLVLQHLQWKHWUHHVDW1HVWRU
Edge, Niyama, Dhaalu Atoll, Maldives
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XQGHUZDWHUFOXE7KHQUHWUHDWWR\RXUVWXGLRRUSDYLOLRQIRUWKHXOWLPDWHFDVWDZD\H[SHULHQFH
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WINTER SUN
Maldives
Take the family! Thats the message from the Maldives in 2016. Islands are investing
heavily in their kids clubs and in activities that allow families to spend quality time
together, says Vanessa Dean from Carrier. Children will be enchanted by the Lha Velaa
(mini turtle) kids club on Velaa Private Island in the northern Noonu Atoll, which is
designed as a waterpark. At Niyama in the southwest Dhaalu Atoll, the kids club on
their 48villa Play island accepts children from 12 months old - the only resort in the
Maldives to do so. Even iconic honeymoon resorts are in the family way, with large, new
SAKIS PAPADOPOULOS/GETTY IMAGES
water villas on Conrad Rangalis familyorientated island Rangalifinolhu, and The Den, a
new kids club at Soneva Fushi, complete with cinema and mocktail bar. Also
in the Unesco biosphere reserve Baa Atoll (pictured), the three and fourbedroom
homes at newly opened Amilla Fushi are perfect for multigenerational families.
WHEN TO GO December to April is high season, when its dry and warm and with calm seas.
The rest of the year is wetter and more humid, but prices are up to 40 per cent lower.
19
WINTER SUN
The Grenadines, Caribbean

Sail and stay packages in the Caribbean, particularly the Grenadines, are
something we are seeing a growing demand for, explains Jonathan Bellamy of
Elegant Resorts. Hoist the sails, take the helm or just sit on deck with a book - you can
do as much or as little as you like. Moor off a deserted beach on one of the uninhabited
islands in Tobago Cays Marine Park or plunge in with your snorkel to explore Horseshoe
DEA/GIOPALAZZO/GETTY IMAGES
Reef. Drop anchor to marvel at the giant conch shells on Shell Beach on the island of
Canouan, where a new luxury hotel is due to open this winter. Top and tail a few nights
afloat with a stay on Canouan or nearby private island Petit St Vincent, which offers a
charter jet service for easy access back to Barbados or Antigua.
WHEN TO GO High season is December to February but The Grenadines are at the
southern edge of the hurricane belt so are also fine - and more affordable- in summer.
20
v a t e s a n c t u a r y .
A pri r t h e h e a r t .
A h o m e f o
tunis | mauritius | zanzibar | maldives cenizaro.com
WINTER SUN
Lord Howe Island, Australia

All eyes will be trained on Queensland this winter as Sir David Attenborough unveils his
new threepart closeup encounter with the Great Barrier Reef on the BBC. But further
down the Australian coast, 370 miles off New South Wales, Lord Howe Island delivers
a quintessential reef and rainforest experience during those months of the year when
travel to the Reef can be wet and humid. Off the radar but eminently accessible, Lord
Howe Island receives daily flights, yearround, from Sydney. Its an incredible natural
environment like a mini Bora Bora, says Rachel Gleave of Turquoise Holidays. The
KEVIN SCHAFER/CORBIS
reef is outstanding as are the hiking and cycling trails - Lord Howe has it all. And that
includes the perfect place to stay: the ninesuite luxury Capella Lodge, from the family
who created Kangaroo Islands acclaimed Southern Ocean Lodge.
WHEN TO GO November until the end of March.
23
WINTER SUN
Indonesia
Throughout Indonesia, Bali is still the best place for luxury accommodation, dining and
quality of service, says Mike Taylor of ITC Luxury Travel. But there is a growing trend for
people looking to explore more, on Bali and beyond. We have received requests for places
such as Menjangan island off the northwest coast of Bali and the Gili islands off Lombok.
Tapping into this trend are an increasing number of traditionalstyle phinisi sailing ships
that have been newly built and luxuriously kitted out to allow access to remote parts
of the archipelago without the need to forgo comfort. Best booked as one element in a
longer itinerary, the newest of these was launched by Amanwana resort on Moyo Island
ETHAN DANIELS/GETTY IMAGES
east of Bali in June. Christened Amandira, the 38metre, twomast coastal cruiser hosts
up to 10 guests for five and sevennight adventures in Komodo National Park from April
to September and around the Raja Ampat islands (pictured), from October to March.
WHEN TO GO December to April is high season, when its dry and warm and with calm seas.
The rest of the year is wetter and more humid, but prices are up to 40 per cent lower.
24
PROMOTION
Angsana Velavarus InOcean villas

seen from the seaplane approach.
TOP RIGHT Funa Restaurant.
RIGHT Exploring by kayak
A S YO U L I K E I T
ANGSANA VELAVARU IN THE SOUTH NILANDHE ATOLL IS THE ULTIMATE PLAYGROUND
IN WHICH TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF THE MALDIVES, YOUR WAY
wimming or snorkelling? Catamaran sailing or big- There are sports including windsurfing, wakeboarding,
S game fishing? Stargazing or a barbecue on the beach?

However you like to relax, Angsana Velavaru has
something for you. Known locally as Turtle Island,
this luxurious resort in the South Nilandhe Atoll,
which is part of the Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts portfolio,
is great for active couples, friends and families to explore
the best of the Maldives. It is not your typical Maldivian
knee-boarding and mono-skiing for those seeking an
adrenaline rush, or more tranquil marine explorations in
a glass-bottom canoe. With its proximity to vibrant dive
sites, Angsana Velavaru is the ideal location for experienced
and novice divers to get up close to whale sharks, manta
rays, white-tip reef sharks, eagle rays and, of course, turtles.
Meanwhile, children aged eight and upwards can experience
resort: with 101 activities for all ages and interests, there is diving in the shallow lagoon with the child-friendly
simply no island like it. Bubble Maker gear.
The action centres on the beautiful blue lagoon at the Cooking lessons and cocktail classes, conservation projects,
resorts centre, on one side of which sunrise picnics, yoga and indulgent
is the main island, with its 79 beach- treatments in the award-winning Angsana
front private villas, and on the other, 34 READER OFFER Spa provide downtime of a different kind.
InOcean villas the first stand-alone Stay seven nights from 2,149pp, And, lastly, lets not forget Angsana
collection of water villas in the Maldives. including halfboard, flights and Velavarus immaculate white-sand beach
The lagoon between is a playground for transfers. For details, call Best At Travel on the perfect place to cast away your cares
water games such as Waboba, a new 0203811 3039 or visit bestattravel.co.uk doing absolutely nothing at all.
take on Frisbee played in waist-high Terms and conditions apply.
water, water polo and aqua volleyball. angsana.com
PROMOTION
The Royal Palms quiet location on Grand Sable

Beach. BELOW, FROM LEFT All suites and rooms
overlook the gardens and Indian Ocean beyond.
One of three heated pools. La Golette on the
waterside is one of three fine places to dine
L I V E L I K E A R O YA L
UNMATCHED ON MAURITIUS FOR ITS EXCLUSIVITY AND SERVICE, THE ROYAL PALM
CELEBRATES THIRTY YEARS AS THE ISLANDS MOST ICONIC HOTEL
resh from an extensive refurbishment and revelling
F in the glow of its thirtieth anniversary celebrations,

The Royal Palm is looking as resplendent as ever. The
flagship of the Beachcomber collection, it was the first
hotel in the Indian Ocean to join The Leading Hotels
of the World and it is renowned for its service and exclusivity.
Located on Grand Sable Beach, on Mauritiuss north coast,
a short walk from Grand Baie, The Royal Palm has an old-
THE EXPERT VIEW
Susie Freeman is an independent
tour operator and one of the best
known on Mauritius. Every property
represented by Susie (pictured),
including The Royal Palm, has
been thoroughly inspected and her
world charm, with just 69 immaculate suites, all of which team makes it a priority to know
overlook verdant gardens and ocean beyond. The hotels the management personally. The
1,000-square-foot Spa by Clarins is an Royal Palm is one of Mauritiuss
oasis of efficacious treatments and calm. finest hotels, says Susie. Its
The Royal Palm is long established READER OFFER sophisticated, elegant and on one of
as one of the finest dining experiences Book at least 30 days before travel and enjoy the islands best swimming beaches.
on Mauritius, with a choice of three a superb 20 per cent off accommodation
restaurants La Golette, La Brezza and at The Royal Palm. Seven nights in a Junior
Le Bar Plage overseen by executive chef Suite on a bed and breakfast basis, including For more information or to book, contact
Michel de Matteis. Their menus present ights with British Airways and hotel Susie Freeman Travel on 01488-668821,
the very best that Mauritius has to offer transfers, costs from 3,220pp, sharing. visit susiefreemantravel.com or email
just like the grande dame hotel herself. [email protected]
Uncommon destinations
Unforgettable moments.
Intimate ships with no more than 300 suites Spacious all-suite accommodations Tipping is neither expected nor required
Award-winning gourmet dining Complimentary open bars and fine wines Complimentar y champagne and in-suite bar
seabourn.co.uk | 0843 373 2000 Ships registry: Bahamas. 2015 Seabourn.

WHAT
WILL
YOU
DISC
OVER?
ANYTHING ELSE IS JUST A HOLIDAY
We are an award-winning luxury tour operator that

creates tailor-made holidays to incredible destinations
all over the world. Whether you are looking to explore
Kerala, visiting the Spice Plantations and taking a
boat through the serene backwaters of Cochin, or
simply want an exotic beach escape with a stunning
oceanfront villa and heavenly spa, we can arrange it.
Our Travel Consultants each spend a month a year

in their specialist area, so they have first-hand local
knowledge that enables them to craft the perfect
holiday for you.
To start planning your luxury holiday today, visit

scottdunn.com or call on 020 3432 5540
NEWS
Roll on the new year

HERE TO INSPIRE YOU A DOZEN DESTINATIONS THAT WERE EXCITED ABOUT IN 2016
SEYCHELLES HOKKAIDO, JAPAN CATALONIA
Explore by land or sea, with new islandhopping Enjoy snow, hot springs and sushi on Japans north The home of El Celler de Can Roca is the European
cruises from Crystal and a Six Senses in spring island, linked to Tokyo by bullet train from March Region of Gastronomy in 2016. Bon profit!
QUEENSLAND COSTA RICA ZIMBABWE

DANA ALLEN/WILDERNESS SAFARIS; VICTOR ANDRADE/GETTY IMAGES; AZURA BENGUERRA; MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES; JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/CORBIS; MARK PARREN TAYLOR;
NEVIS TOURISM AUTHORITY; NISEKO PROMOTION BOARD; RIVIERA DEL CONERO; SEYCHELLES TOURIST OFFICE; TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND; TOURISM UTTAR PRADESH
Take a lead from David Attenborough and revisit New direct flights from the UK in May put the worlds With a new international airport and new lodges, one
The Reef: its at its best from April until October most remarkable wildlife destination within reach of Africas best safari destinations is back on the map
MOZAMBIQUE COAST BRAZIL ITALY
The marvellous lodges that dot Mozambiques coast Did somebody mention the Olympics? Head for the The country we never tire of but were heading off
and islands are reward for tackling the tricky access beautiful northern beaches for some postevent R&R the tourist trail, from the Conero Riviera to Matera
SOUTH-WEST CHINA NORTHERN INDIA NEVIS
Coo at pandas in Chengdu then make for Yunnan For a first visit, it has to be Rajasthan; for second The Caribbeans laidback gem; plant a palm on Nevis
for a heady mix of cultures and soaring vistas timers, Uttar Pradeshs new Heritage Arc beckons Plantation and sip Killer Bees at Sunshine beach bar
29
condenastjohansens.com
One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives
VIEWPOINT
THE NEW CURRENCY

The value of a holiday these days is measured by the experiences clocked up, memories made and
time spent with nearest and dearest, says House & Gardens travel editor Pamela Goodman
I wish there was another way of saying experiential travel.

I like the idea of experience and I like the idea of travel but
somehow, in putting the two together, the phrase smacks of
hollow marketing speak and the allure is lost. Like it or not,
however, experiential travel is apparently what were all after
Travel companies are adapting too, binning the generic
package deals and offering more and more holidays
designed on a personal level where experience gained is the
core criteria. No corner of the world seems too far flung and
no request too extraordinary: breakfast with an Eskimo on
these days, and I wouldnt disagree. In the Western world the polar ice cap? You only have to ask.
mindless self-indulgence and materialism seem to be fading And then theres the growing popularity of the multi-
fast, replaced by a desire to gather experiences rather than generational holiday and the emergence of companies
things. On the whole we are a newly mindful travelling public planning holidays abroad for extended families or large
who want more from our holidays than simply to tick a box groups of friends, or for special occasions. The bang for
to say weve been there. We want to do stuff, to share stuff, to your buck these days often comes from the company of
dig a little deeper, to care a little more about the places we are your nearest and dearest with the best experiences being as
visiting, to connect with a sense of history and culture, and much about who you are with as where you are.
to collect sights and sounds and tastes and encounters that From my own perspective as a ludicrously well-travelled
enrich our memory banks. person, I find it is often the simple holidays that leave the
The rise and rise of the home-from-home stays, flooding most lasting impressions. The cycling holiday in the Loire;
the market through the likes of Airbnb, perfectly captures the gathering of friends for a birthday party in Spain; the
the mood. How much easier is it now to immerse yourself in family New Years Eve living like a local in an apartment in
a destination, cities in particular, and to live and breathe a Prague. But the five days I spent in the spring of 2015,
place from a different perspective? We love the inside track, walking near Sintra in Portugal in the company of one of my
the knowledge of a local and the idea that visitors we may be oldest friends, was one of the best. It was travel, experience
but tourists we are not. and time well spent all beautifully rolled into one. D
T r ave l t e c h Be in the know when youre on the go by downloading the latest travel apps
ARUNAS GABALIS /ALAMY; PIXELATE IMAGING
Enjoy peace of mind Stay connected Arrive feeling refreshed

Use the Dashlane app to securely store Prevent international roaming charges The SkyZen app works with the Jawbone
passwords, credit card numbers, IDs and and having to pay and enter your personal fitness wristband, from 39.99, so you
billing address details on your phone, details every time you want to surf the can monitor your health and wellbeing
tablet and laptop so theyre easily accessible. Use it internet by using the iPass app. It gives you fast, before, during and after a flight. It tracks your activity
to autofill passport and driving license information hasslefree connection and unlimited access to the and sleep throughout your journey and offers advice on
to speed up flight checkin and car hire too. Free for nearest wifi hotspot. From 16 per month. how to combat jetlag. Free for iOS devices (iPhone, iPad
Android and iOS devices. dashlane.com ipass.com and iPod touch). apple.co/1NioLBI Emily Peck
31
PROMOTION
THE TIME IS NOW

A THRIVING CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE, WORLD-CLASS DINING, ARCHITECTURE AND SPORTS EVENTS
MEET AUTHENTIC ARAB HOSPITALITY IN QATAR A DESTINATION WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED IN 2016
A
cluster of bright, white contemporary culture a country just Qatari desert architecture, the centre
geometric buildings shines waiting to be discovered. fosters cultural exchange through
and reflects in the desert On Dohas changing skyline, another events such as art exhibitions, and
like a beacon. From inside, a architectural masterpiece taking shape is home to the Qatar Philharmonic
45-metre-tall glass wall offers is Jean Nouvels National Museum Orchestra. Music lovers should also
far-reaching views of the glittering Gulf of Qatar which, when it opens on head for Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha,
below where traditional dhows cruise the Corniche in 2017, will artfully located in the St Regis Hotel (see right).
past giant palms and gravity-defying preserve the Gulf s legendary maritime Qatar may be fast changing, but it
architectural masterpieces built on land traditions. State-of-the-art laser exudes a strong sense of history that
reclaimed from the sea. The Museum scanning and digital photography will sets it apart from its more exuberant
of Islamic Art, designed by I.M. Pei, is chronicle Qatars pearling and fishing neighbours. There are enough luxury
one of the Middle Easts most talked histories, as will 3D digital models of hotels, world-class restaurants and
about buildings. Perched between traditional dhows, the vessel of choice designer shops to keep even the
the city of Doha and the Persian Gulf, for merchants and fishermen across the pickiest globetrotter happy, but at the
this contemporary icon filled with centuries. Embracing the modern to archaeological sites, the souqs, and
priceless art treasures from across the preserve the past reflects Qatars vision in the mysterious sand dunes of the
centuries encapsulates the essence for the country a vision that is also desert, there is a bygone charm and an
of Qatar, a country at the crossroads of embodied in Katara Cultural Village. undiscovered air that is increasingly
history and the future, of traditional and Designed in the style of traditional hard to find in todays modern world.
PROMOTION
AND ALL THAT JAZZ

St Regis Hotels & Resorts and Jazz at
Lincoln Center have forged a partnership
to bring two New York icons together
to create a series of jazz clubs around
the world in St Regis hotels the first of
which is thriving at the St Regis Doha.
Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha provides the
opportunity for everyone to experience
worldclass jazz, to learn about its rich
history and understand its cultural value
in a modern, authentic and bespoke way.
Entering Dohas Souq Waqif (literally

the standing market) is like opening a
door on a long-forgotten world. A recent
facelift has smartened things up but
its authentic appeal traditional mud
and stone-rendered shops, exposed
timber beams and nineteenth-century
ambiance has been painstakingly
retained (and air-conditioning units
cunningly disguised). Souq Waqif
PROMOTION
EXQUISITE TASTES
FROM HUMMUS TO
HAKKASAN, DOHAS DINING
SCENE IS RICH IN FLAVOUR
Gastronomes will find themselves
THIS PAGE Katara Cultural Village is designed in the style of traditional desert architecture. PREVIOUS particularly well served in Doha, a city
PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Qatar old and new: dhows moored in front of Dohas furturistic skyline. The that hums to its own culinary rhythms.
Museum of Islamic Art. Inside Dohas Souq Waqif. Katara Cultural Village. Spices for sale in Souq Waqif It has developed a strong and successful
multicultural food scene that includes
offers a fascinating insight into the The souq also hints at the Qataris worldrenowned chefs specialising in
traditional art of Arabian shopping fanatical love of sport. The magnificent Middle Eastern, Indian, Italian, South
and impromptu hospitality. In the birds of prey on display at the Falcon East Asian and Japanese food. There are
sandalwood-scented alleys you can Souq where owners are only too happy restaurant brands you will recognise,
watch as hawkers artistically unfurl to show off their handling skills prove such as Carluccios, Hakkasan, Nobu
their striped blankets, listen as darbuka how these feathered hunters still play an and Gordon Ramsay, as well as plenty
drums are played by musical vendors important role in twenty-first-century of smaller Middle Eastern cafs that
and taste local honey, preserved lemons Qatari life. The stables at the souq, provide the setting for lazy, laidback
and delicious dates. As you pick out your displaying Arabian thoroughbreds, also suppers of hummus, salads and shishas.
souvenirs, perhaps some silverware or give a clue to one of Qatars most loved A localstyle meal in Souq Waqif is a
frankincense, you can also indulge in past-times, horseracing, aka the sport musttry at least once.
some fascinating people-watching as of sheikhs. In fact, sports enthusiasts in
families gently barter for their weekly Qatar will find themselves in good
shop. A fitting finale to an afternoon company whether at high-profile Its not just active types who find the
wiled away at the souq is a trip out to international events like the PGA Golf lure of Qatars desert culture irresistible.
the teal-coloured waters of the Arabian tournament or when trying out camel These are the dunes that encapsulate
Gulf aboard a traditional dhow the racing or off-roading in 4X4s (dune the Orient of the imagination one of
quintessential way to watch the sunset. bashing) in the desert. camel caravans, hospitality and hidden
PROMOTION
HIDDEN QATAR
A FEW LESSER-KNOWN GEMS
WORTH SEEKING OUT
OHistory buffs should not miss the
walled coastal town of Al Zubarah in the

north of the country which flourished
as a pearling and trading centre in
the eighteenth and earlynineteenth
centuries. Here you will find preserved
- but pleasingly sandblown - palaces,
mosques, courtyard houses
and fishermens huts.
O For something more active, local tour
outfits offer paddle boarding on the calm

Gulf waters around Doha. Suitable for
children over the age of three, its a fun
family activity and easier than it sounds.
O Another outoftheordinary family
friendly experience is the Sheikh Faisal

bin Qassim Al Thani private museum,
15 miles west of Doha. As well as the
15,000 or so artefacts that are on
display - including fossils, manuscripts
and textiles - there are also fishing boats
and traditional Qatari houses, 1,000
Arabian oryx, gazelles, and peacocks.
O After all the activity, seek R&R at one of
Qatars excellent spas. Many are located

within Dohas topend hotels and have
expert therapists from all over the world.
oases. It is within the giant sandbanks

of the desert, unhampered by light
pollution, that you can enjoy an evening
that combines culture with cosmology:
a traditional desert barbeque becomes
a stargazing adventure when night falls.
Quietly, but confidently, Qatar, with
its hospitality, year-round sunshine
and world-class sports scene, is quickly
establishing itself as a sought-after
holiday destination for those in the
know. Go now, before word gets out.
Destinology offers three nights B&B at

W Doha, including flights with Qatar
Airways, from 1,145pp. 01204-
821235; destinology.co.uk. Expedia
offers three nights at the Hilton Doha from
1,027pp, flights with Qatar Airways. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Katara Cultural Village.
0330-123 1235; expedia.co.uk. For more Falconry. Pearl Divers. Sheikh Faisal Museum.
information, visit the Qatar Tourism Zubarah Fort. West Bay. Qatar hosts the PGA Golf
Authority website at qatartourism.gov.qa
GR AC IOU S
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NEWS
T r ave l t e c h
A century of
awe-inspiring vistas
Zone out
AudioTechnicas Bluetooth
ATHANC40BT noisecancelling
headphones, 149, will deliver
crystalclear sound wirelessly
from up to two devices.
audiotechnicashop.com
Park Ranger Tex Worley views the Grand

Canyon from the North Rim, 1936. BELOW
Upper Geyser Basin in Yellowstone, 1912
Established as a national park in 1872, Yellowstone in Wyoming with its Say cheese
crystalline lakes, canyons and geysers was the first of its kind. Now more Back up your camera roll on the
than 400 parks come under the stewardship of Americas National Parks go and free up space for more
photos, videos and music, with
Service which was established in 1916 to recognise the need to protect
the Leef iBRIDGE for Apple iOS
such areas of natural beauty and wilderness. In August, the Service marks
devices. From 49 for 16GB.
its centenary with a host of events across the USA celebrating the great leefco.com
outdoors as well as a new 3D IMAX documentary narrated by Robert Redford
and filmed in 30 of the national parks. National Parks Adventure is released
on February 12. discoveramerica.com/outdoors
THE DRIVE TO
SUCCEED
Its north-east Spain, but not as most
of us know it. Inland from Barcelona,
uphill and off-road, Abercrombie &
Kent has launched a series of driving
adventures in partnership with Land Perk up
Rover against the backdrop of the Enjoy espressos with crema
NATIONAL PARKS SERVICE/DISCOVERAMERICA.COM
Montserrat Mountains. The action wherever you are, with the

takes place on Les Comes Estate, Minipresso handpowered coffee
renowned among enthusiasts for its machine, 49.99. Once you
challenging passes, some of which fill it with hot water and ground
are used in the qualifying stages of coffee and start to pump, the
the Camel Trophy and G4 Challenge. pressure inside reaches 116psi
Departures in September 2016. - just like a traditional coffee
Three nights from 3,995pp. 01242- machine. thefowndry.com
547898; abercrombiekent.co.uk Emily Peck
37
NEWS
ACTIVE RELAXATION
Traditional beach resorts are
finding new ways to entice you
from your sunlounger
In MAURITIUS, Shanti Maurice

has come up with yoga biking:
a leisurely cycling tour of the
islands south coast punctuated
with stops for beachside yoga and
guided meditation to the sound
NATURES PLAYGROUND of the waves. shantimaurice.com
White-sand beaches, calm waters and reefs the idyllic islands of the Maldives are as perfect
an environment for fitness as they are for lounging, as Louisa Parker Bowles finds out
N o matter how good your intentions are

to be healthy on holiday, when youre
in a place like the Maldives, its hard to
sacrifice time outdoors for time in the gym,
however sleek and well-equipped it may be.
followed by an initial 20-minute consultation
with the resorts wellness concierge, Boni,
during which we discussed what key things
could improve my overall happiness and
physical vitality. As a mother of two young
Guests at Nizuc in Punta Nizuc,
MEXICO, can explore the resorts
protected mangroves by paddle
board; or better still, improve
But, in fact, theres no need: nature provides girls, I have little time to myself, so practical their core strength and balance
the perfect playground in which to stretch, ways to incorporate these at home were by attempting a series of yoga
strengthen and tone. going to be essential. A programme was moves while balanced on a
At LUX* South Ari Atoll in the Maldives subsequently mapped out that incorporated paddle board in the shallows off
(pictured), activities that champion the me time in the spa (including a Shirley Page the pristine beach. nizuc.com
beautiful surroundings are integral to the signature facial that worked wonders for my
new LUX* Me Wellness Concierge service, dry and lacklustre post-partum skin), with
launched in partnership with wellness expert exercise and relaxation.
Stephen Price of SP&Co London. The aim of For those who yearn to feel the burn, a
the service is to offer tailored programmes session with a personal trainer in the outdoor
that help guests achieve their well-being jungle gym is a good place to start. I favoured
and fitness goals. The approach is holistic, beachside yoga, gentle walks and cycling
with fitness, nutrition and healing all taken around the island, as well as swimming and
into consideration, but in particular, the snorkelling although I avoided twilight
concierge encourages guests to get active swims, as that was when they fed the baby
in the natural environment, through sharks and manta rays off the piers and
adventures such as diving, swimming, I couldnt help but wonder where the
kayaking, paddle boarding and yoga. mummies and daddies were!
My arrival at LUX* South Ari Atoll, with a I appreciated the holistic and sustainable, Onthewater spin classes have
gentle splash on a seaplane from Mal, was but also relaxed, approach to well-being that been launched - quite literally
the concierge promotes: its not - from Sugar Beach resorts
ESSENTIALS the strictest regime, but that enviable spot on Anse de Pitons
WHEN TO GO Peak season in the Maldives is December to February, would have detracted from the in ST LUCIA. Guests can now
thanks to low humidity and clear skies. Those in the know travel from surroundings. Reflecting on take to the Caribbean Sea by
March to May when temperatures start to rise but prices fall. my stay, I realised it is vital to peddle power, on a Schiller Bike
HOW LUX* Me Wellness Concierge Service - free initial consultation; find time each day for myself - a cross between a bike and a
subsequent consultations, 67 for one hour. A sevennight stay at LUX* be that a short run or a yoga catamaran - for instructorled
South Ari Atoll costs from 2,645pp B&B including transfers and all class no matter how full the classes or aquatic explorations.
flights with Original Travel (0203582 4990; originaltravel.co.uk). laundry basket. D viceroyhotelsandresorts.com
38
PROMOTION
PA R I S I A N B E AU T Y
AT NINETY YEARS YOUNG, LE BRISTOL PARIS OETKER
COLLECTION FLAGSHIP HOTEL IS LOOKING EXQUISITE
AFTER A RESTORATION COSTING OVER 150 MILLION
S
ince her unveiling on rue du Faubourg Saint-
Honor in 1925, Le Bristol Paris has been
synonymous with style and beauty. The great and
the glamorous of Parisian and international high
society from Coco Chanel and Marilyn Monroe
to Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali have all swirled into the
embrace of her elegant lobby.
Now, ninety years on, having been the first hotel in the
French capital to be awarded Palace status, and after an
extensive restoration that has seen a seven-room Royal Suite
and Honeymoon Suite added and Epicure, the hotels three-
star Michelin restaurant, refreshed, Le Bristol remains the
address for an unrivalled stay in Paris.
Spread over 3,200 square feet overlooking Le Bristols
iconic French garden, the Royal Suite has the feel of an
eighteenth-century country residence. Its magnificent
double sitting room is panelled in oak, with walls painted
in age-old designs; throughout are fine furnishings by the
likes of Rubelli, Meissen and Manuel Canovas. The Imperial
Suite boasts private dining for up to 12 people and a bedroom
with a private hammam, while the Honeymoon Suite has four
balconies, with one revealing magnificent views of the Eiffel
Tower. After all, this is the city of romance.
THE GREAT AND GLAMOROUS OF FRENCH

SOCIETY HAVE SWIRLED INTO THE LOBBY
Epicure, Le Bristols acclaimed gastronomic restaurant
run by head chef Eric Frechon, is a leading light on the
Parisian dining scene. Neither stuffy nor pretentious, it has
a comfortable, bright ambience and, of course, those three
Michelin stars. Add to this one star for Le Bristols duplex
luxury brasserie, Le 114 Faubourg, and you have the only
hotel in Europe to hold four Michelin stars.
Le Bar du Bristol is another gem. Exuding timeless
elegance, it has the feel of an old English club, with thick
silk drapes creating intimacy, and a handsome Versailles oak
floor; bookcases flank a nineteenth-century fireplace made
in marble from Sienna. A mural by contemporary painter
Thierry Bruet contrasts with the decorative Aubusson
tapestry hanging behind the bar, which dates from 1740.
Beneath its depictions of a Chinese garden and pagodas,
head barman Maxime Hoerth, who was named Best French
Craftsman in the Barman category in 2011, mixes up his
signature cocktails. Kick back with his Bristol Old Fashioned
No 1 and a selection of Eric Frechons scrumptious bar tapas.
Relaxation can also be found in Spa Le Bristol by La
Prairie, which is generously spread over three floors of the
hotel and comprises eight beauty treatment cabins as well
as a Russian wet room with the first affusion (hydrotherapy)
shower in Paris, a women-only Turkish bath and a beautiful
PROMOTION
SWEET HARMONY
A NEW SERIES OF CLASSICAL
CONCERTS AT LE BRISTOL
Throughout 2016, Le Bristol Paris
hosts a series of monthly classical
music recitals showcasing some of
the worlds finest talents, from piano
virtuosos to breathtaking singers,
cellists and violinists. The concerts
begin on February 15 with soprano
Melody Louledjian and pianist Antoine
Palloc performing Great Women in Love
at the Opera. Other highlights include
awardwinning contemporary pianist
Anne Quefflec, who has performed
under the direction of some of the
worlds greatest conductors, on April
18. The concerts will take place in one
indoor garden. The hotel also has a of the appropriately opulent salons.
stunning swimming pool decorated
in teak and glass in the style of one
of the most beautiful yachts of the
nineteenth century, the Christina,
owned by Aristotle Onassis. Take a
dip (its a comfortable 28C) or settle
on a lounger on the vast sundeck that
overlooks Paris one of the citys
most appealing vantage points.
The recent renovations have renewed and enhanced Le CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT
Bristol for the contemporary traveller, but there is much The dramatic wroughtiron
about Le Bristol that is unchanged. For one, the love and and marble main staircase
care of the family which has been its custodian since 1978, at Le Bristol. One of the
the Oetkers. It was under the attentive, creative eye of Maja Prestige Elyse Suites a
Oetker and internationally renowned designer Yves Rochon private apartment in the
that the restorations were carried out. The hotel retains the heart of Paris. Le Bar has
feel of a grand home away from home, with sizeable rooms the feel of an English
and suites (all 188 of them), inviting and dynamic public gentlemans club. Epicure
spaces and the largest hotel garden in Paris. The jewel in the restaurant holds three
crown of the Oetker familys prestigious collection of five-star Michelin stars. The pool
hotels worldwide which also includes The Lanesborough in and terrace at Spa Le
London and Htel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes Le Bristol Bristol by La Prairie have
Paris is, quite simply, the City of Lights most alluring hotel. enviable views across the
citys rooftops
Doubles from 1,100, room only. 00-33-1 53 43 43 00;
lebristolparis.com
LOCAL INGREDIENTS,
I TA L IA N H E A RT
Angela Hartnett & Luke Holder do the cooking
at Lime Woods Harnett Holder & Co.
Well-crated, locally sourced Italian dishes hhandco.co.uk

in the heart of the New Forest! 023 8028 7177
NEWS
A TASTE OF
FRANCE
Chef Raymond Blanc recommends some
of his favourite spots from his home city
of Besanon to Paris and Provence
EAT My favourite restaurant is a Relais & Chteaux, two-star

Michelin place called LOasis in La Napoule on the Cte
dAzur. It is right on the port, it has a lovely terrace and some
of the best food in the south of France. oasis-raimbault.com
DRINK My home town is Besanon in Franche-Comt, with the

rugged Jura mountains to the south east and vineyards to the
south: its Savagnin and Poulsard wines are well worth a try. Have
an aperitif at my favourite bistro, Le Vin et LAssiette: it is owned
by my dear friend Bernard Leroy, who is not only a fine host but
also an extraordinary vigneron. 97 Rue Battant, Besanon
SHOP Parisian food markets are

among the best in the world. The
THE NARROW COBBLED STREETS
March des Enfants Rouges,
which was created in the 1600s, AND TIMBER-FRAMED HOUSES OF
is wonderful. I love sitting at a
table, eating and talking to other
COLMAR ARE LIKE A FAIRY TALE
visitors. 39 Rue de Bretagne, Paris
WANDER I love Alsace. The narrow, cobbled streets and beautiful

timber-framed houses of Colmar are like visiting a fairy tale.Such FROM TOP Beach on
wonderful cafs to explore, serving excellent fruit grown in local Porquerolles. Vin jaune
orchards. They also make fruit liqueurs my favourite is kirsch. from the Jura. Timber
framed buildings in
ESCAPE Take a boat from Hyres on the Cte dAzur to the idyllic Colmar. LOasis terrace
isles of Lavant, Port-Cros and Porquerolles. Theyre known
as the Golden Isles, and the beaches are simply beautiful.
hyeres-tourism.co.uk
THINK I love the Muse de La Halle Saint-Pierre bookshop in

Montmartre: theres a huge selection of volumes on art and
INTERVIEW BY CAROLYN BOYD. PHOTOS: CRT FRANCHE-COMT/MICHEL JOLY; HYRES TOURISME; OT COLMAR
culture to browse and buy. hallesaintpierre.org
RELAX For several years, I have gone to Le Club de Cavalire &

Spa close to Le Lavandou in Provence because I find it
absolutely perfect. It is on an enchanting little stretch of beach.
They also do the best tarte aux figues. clubdecavaliere.com D
LEFT TO RIGHT sunshine style

Margot dress, Inspired by the tropical gardens and vibrant colours of its resort destinations,
Crystal tunic and
Phia shorts
One&Only has launched its second collection of kaftans, dresses, shorts and
shifts, designed by the companys own director of retail, Preston Schroeder.
Made in light cotton and rayon voile in mainly blue and yellow reflecting the
resorts abundance of sea and sunshine the pieces are an easy fit into any
holiday wardrobe. The 2016 One&Only Collection is available in the NEO
boutiques in One&Only resorts. oneandonlyresorts.com
43
PROMOTION
ECO-FRIENDLY
LES TROIS CYPRES, OPPEDELE
VIEUX, PROVENCE, 4 bedrooms,
sleeps 8
Within walking distance of the
charming hilltop village of Oppde
leVieux with its narrow ancient
streets and medieval ramparts, Les
Trois Cyprs is an elegant Provenal
mas, brought bang uptodate with
ecofriendly credentials including
a sophisticated geothermic heating
and cooling system. Views are
quintessential Luberon - with ancient
olive trees alongside vines heavy with
grenache, muscat and syrah grapes.
C U R AT E D C O M F O R T The large, private pool sits in a walled

garden which traps the abundant
sunshine, though there are numerous
RED SAVANNAHS CAREFULLY SELECTED EUROPEAN AND CARIBBEAN VILLA shaded areas in which to escape the
PORTFOLIO FEATURES ONLY THE VERY BEST HOLIDAY HOMES AWAY FROM summer heat. From 1,070pp, per
HOME. LET THESE FIVE HAND-PICKED FRENCH GEMS WHET YOUR APPETITE week based on full occupancy.
BEST FOR GREAT FOR CLASSIC BLOW THE

SIGHTSEEING FAMILIES PROVENCE BUDGET
MAS DE QUATRE SAISONS, GRASSE, BASTIDE DES MURIERS, BONNIEUX, LE PONT ROMAIN, NEAR BONNIEUX, VILLA BAYVIEW, VILLEFRANCHE,
PROVENCE, 7 bedrooms, sleeps 14 PROVENCE, 6 bedrooms, sleeps 13 PROVENCE 6 bedrooms, sleeps 12 COTE DAZUR, 5 bedrooms, sleeps 10
Located near to Grasse, in the hills French interior design and cuisine Close to the village of Bonnieux, Stunning Villa Bayview commands
set back from the Cte dAzur littoral, feature strongly at Bastide des Le Pont Romain began life in the breathtaking views over SaintJean
this villa is well located for visiting Muriers, an eighteenthcentury eighteenth century as a school; CapFerrat and the Mediterranean
the regions pretty villages, such as farmhouse in the heart of Provence. today it is a splendid, traditional from its clifftop location - one of the
Mougins, Saint Paul de Vence, Vence The kitchen is a masterpiece of Provenal villa. Everything about best on the Cte dAzur. Just a few
and Valbonne, as well as the coastal reclaimed dark wood complemented the house invites relaxation, from minutes walk from the restaurants
resorts of Cannes and Antibes. An by marble work surfaces, white the knottedwood table shaded and boutiques of Villefranche,
eighteenthcentury bastide, it has washed walls and pouredconcrete beneath the plane tree in the garden Villa Bayview is a contemporary
stone replaces, terracotta oors, oors. A black La Cornue Chteau to the distressedleather sofa, once masterpiece, with monochrome
oakbeamed ceilings and traditional cooker takes pride of place. A large owned by the writer Peter Mayle. interiors combining stone, glass
Provenal shutters. Theres an childrens room provides space for The exterior is a delicious clich of and oortoceiling windows with
outdoor heated pool with a pergola, play indoors, while the villa also lavender and pastelblue shutters, occasional splashes of vibrant
as well as ptanque court, basketball boasts numerous outdoor areas with the mountains of the Luberon colour. It has an innity pool with
and table tennis. The pool house has for family gatherings, including an National Park visible beyond. Despite stunning views, several levels of
a thoughtfully equipped summer 18m pool, repit with seating and a its history, all six bedrooms have en landscaped gardens and even a
kitchen and bar area and, inside, barbecue. A 24hour concierge and suite, there is wi throughout and vehicle turntable to turnaround
there is a family entertainment daily housekeeping provides hotel numerous televisions with satellite, the supercar. Staff includes a chef,
room - making it perfect for multi style service, with the independence including in the delightful snug. housekeeper, butler and concierge.
generational families. From 433pp, of a private house. From 902pp, From 362pp, per week based on From 2,056pp, per week based on
per week based on full occupancy. per week based on full occupancy. full occupancy. full occupancy.
Book a Red Savannah villa before January 31, 2016 and save 250 quote House & Garden. 01242-787800; redsavannah.com
P R I VAT E V I L L A S
)5$1&(,7$/<63$,1*5((&(&$5,%%($1
SAVE 250 - Book your luxury villa
before the end of January 2016. 01242 787800
Quote House & Garden redsavannah.com
C RY S TA L C RU I S E S REDEFINE THE LINE
BETWEEN
L U X U RY & A DV E N T U R E .
Crystal Esprit
Redefining luxury: The Bes
t Service at Sea
Introducing Crystal Esprit, an extraordinary Our 2 passenger sub

and exciting boutique luxury yacht set to
launch an entirely new class of unparalleled
small-ship travel. Enjoy all-suite accommodations,
Michelin star-level cuisine, swimming, snorkelling,
water skiing and jet skiing from the marina platform,
and complimentary Crystal Adventures ashore in
nearly every port. For the ultimate extravagance,
optional Crystal exclusives include a 2-passenger
submersible for underwater adventures and a
high-performance exhilarating speedboat.
All this, combined with Crystals award-winning

luxury exacting, familiar and genuinely warm
creates a new level of luxury that is now yours 22 years 20 years
to rewrite.
U.K.
To make a booking, please contact your

preferred Travel Agent or call 020 7399 7601 Crystal Cruises
Best for Luxury
The World's Most Awarded

WWW.C RYSTALYACHTCRUISES.CO.UK
Luxury Cruise Line.
All renderings at this time are artists conceptual drawings and are subject to change.
2015 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships registry: The Bahamas BEGIN A NEW STORY
PROMOTION
G OING PLACE S
CRYSTAL CRUISES WINNER OF MORE AWARDS THAN
ANY OTHER LUXURY CRUISE LINE, HOTEL OR RESORT
IS EXPANDING ITS REACH WITH NEW SIX-STAR
YACHTS, RIVER CRUISES AND ITS OWN DREAMLINER,
FOR THE ULTIMATE IN PRIVATE GLOBAL TOURING
ime never stands still in the world of travel, with enticing
T destinations opening up all the time alongside new ways

to discover the wonders of the globe. The same must be
said for Crystal Cruises, whose legendary hospitality
has kept it at the top of the cruise industry for more than
a quarter of a century, amassing an array of accolades on the way.
Crystals approach to hospitality is uncompromising: the focus
on board its fleet of six-star, all-inclusive ships is on abundant
space, extensive choices and quality and classic, but not stuffy,
service. This means a professional but genuinely warm welcome
from staff, officers and crew; a plethora of high-quality, and
often exclusive, shore excursions, on-board education and
entertainment; a wealth of dining venues, including speciality FROM TOP The majestic Crystal Symphony sails into Sydney, Australia.
restaurants with menus created by star chefs such as Nobu Crystal Serenitys spacious penthouse comes complete with a generous
Matsuhisa; bars offering complimentary Champagne, fine verandah. The new, 62guest Crystal Esprit makes its maiden voyage around
wines and premium spirits; and even the worlds only floating the Seychelles on December 23, 2015 for Crystal Yacht Cruises
spa designed to feng shui principles.
Crystal guests are simply spoilt for choice the launch of Crystal Luxury Air, offering
and theres more to come... READER OFFER extravagant round-the-world trips on its
This month (December) Crystal Book any Crystal Cruises itinerary own 60-seater Boeing 787 Dreamliner
launches the eagerly awaited Crystal before February 29, 2016 and receive making Crystals newly expanded fleet
Yacht Cruises, which will be followed by up to US$200 onboard credit per your passport to the world.
Crystals first river yacht in July 2016, with stateroom. Offer based on two people
a further four in 2017. And, appropriately sharing. Quote HGJAN1 when booking. For more information, call Crystal Cruises on
for a brand thats flying high, 2017 also sees 020-7399 7601 or visit crystalcruises.co.uk
NEWS
DONT MISS THE BOAT

Our year-round guide to where to cruise when will ensure you cast off in just the right season
SPRING SUMMER
Calm, clear seas in the MALDIVES in winter and early spring make this the Most CRUISE SHIPS ARE SUN SEEKERS: when the temperatures start to
best time to be ON THE WATER. Divers and snorkellers will love Soneva in rise in Europe many arrive from across the Atlantic, staying from April to
Aqua (soneva.com), a new twocabin luxury yacht offering two to five October, largely in the MEDITERRANEAN and ADRIATIC. With so many ships,
day charters from Soneva Fushi resort around the Baa Atoll, a Unesco large and small, theres something for everyone, from Barcelona to Istanbul.
World Biosphere Reserve. From 2,973 per night. JAPANS TEMPLES AND Summer is also the best time for sailing in the CANADIAN and EUROPEAN
SHRINES are awash with pink CHERRY BLOSSOMS from late March to mid ARCTIC. Spot polar bears and musk oxen and watch icebergs float by while
April. Noble Caledonias (noblecaledonia.co.uk) cruising around Spitsbergen, Greenland and Iceland on board Hurtigrutens
14day Cherry Blossom in Imperial 15 to 16day Extremes of the Arctic cruise (hurtigruten.co.uk) which
Japan journey hits all the departs Longyearbyen on August 24. From 5,274pp, including flights.
prime spots including For GRIZZLIES, pick from numerous cruises with Holland America Line
Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo. (hollandamerica.com) which has seven ships
It departs London in ALASKA from April to September.
on March 27. From Prefer something warmer? CLEAR SEAS
4,995pp, including make August the best time to visit
flights. See fruit FRENCH POLYNESIA. Local
ORCHARDS IN BLOOM in specialist Paul Gauguin
the NORWEGIAN FJORDS ...
(pgcruises.com), has a
from Holland America Lines 10night roundtrip
(hollandamerica.com) new from Tahiti to
ship ms Koningsdam.
G SU M the Tuamotus and
Sevennight round trip
from Amsterdam departs
IN Society Islands,
departing August
ME
SP R
May 22. From 1,689pp, 10, from 5,394pp,

R
including flights. including flights.

AU
AUTUMN WINTER
R
Partial to port? From November to March,

TE
U
T
Celebrate the annual cruise ships follow the sun

MN N
WI
GRAPE HARVEST in the back to FLORIDA and the
DOURO VALLEY, Portugal CARIBBEAN, to offer all
while on board the Royal Barge, manner of islandhopping
Spirit of Chartwell, as part of ...
itineraries. Winter in the northern
a 10night stayandcruise hemisphere also happens to
package with Titan Travel be the best time of year to visit
(titantravel.co.uk), which ANTARCTICA (where it is summer):
combines Lisbon and the A&K (abercrombiekent.com)
Duoro River. For departures on offers journeys to the White
September 2 and October 6, 2016, Continent on board Ponants recently
guests will head to Quinta da Avessada launched iceclass ship Le Lyrial. For the
for the Duoro Vintage celebrations, which mark a successful grape harvest. ultimate CHRISTMAS TREAT, the Classic Antarctica itinerary
CH/VISITNORWAY.COM; DISCOVERAMERICA.COM; JNTO; PONANT
From 2,799pp, including flights. See THE SHADES OF AUTUMN transform departs December 26 and costs from 8,246pp, excluding
the US and Canadian EAST COAST through September and October. Crystal flights. In Northern Europe, CHRISTMAS MARKETS are the draw for winter
Serenity (crystalcruises.co.uk) offers a sevenday cruise from New York City river cruising. Viking River Cruises (vikingrivercruises.co.uk) has a range
to Quebec City departing September 17, calling in picturesque locations of festive sailings on its longships on the DANUBE and RHINE. Onboard
such as Bar Harbour, Maine. From 1,914pp, cruise only. October means activities include gingerbread making and a Christmas tree decorating party.
HIGH WATER ON THE IRRAWADDY in Burma. Once a year Belmonds Orcaella December to April is the best time to explore the AMAZON, as the water is
(belmond.com) takes full advantage to sail all the way from Bagan and high and skiffs can delve deeper into the flooded forest. With 23ft more
Mandalay to Bhamo on the Chinese border. October 22 is the one chance water in the river, youre also closer to the jungle canopy to see monkeys play
to join the 11night Gorges of the Far North journey. From 5,470pp, and birds roosting. Aqua Expeditions (aquaexpeditions.com) has two ships on
including flights. Most ships that have been based in Europe for the summer the Peruvian Amazon with itineraries ranging from three to seven nights.
make the TRANSATLANTIC CROSSING in autumn, returning to sunnier climes. Yearround departures from 2,147pp, cruise only.
48
PROMOTION
Torres del Paine National Park, Chile:

a highlight of the South America Passage
EPIC ADVENTURE
SAILING FROM BUENOS AIRES TO SANTIAGO, HOLLAND AMERICA LINES
SOUTH AMERICA PASSAGE IS THE GREAT BUCKET-LIST JOURNEY
ancing the tango in Buenos wealth of destinations and cultural
D Aires. Tick. Lazing on the

beaches of Montevideo.
Tick. Spotting rockhopper
penguins in the Falkland
Islands. Tick. Marvelling at the majesty
of Glacier Alley. Watching Andean
condors soar gracefully over the Chilean
immersion possible in just 14 nights.
In every port of call, knowledgeable
local guides are on hand to ensure
guests make the most of the on-shore
excursions. Meanwhile, on-board, a
roster of relevant activities embraces
the region from guest lectures to
EXPLORE MORE
Holland America Line visits more
worldwide destinations than any other
major cruise line. Among its eet of 14
vestar, midsize ships - including the
new ms Koningsdam, which launches
fjords. Wine tasting in the Casablanca tango and Spanish lessons and even a in April 2016 - four are based in
Valley. Sipping a Pisco Sour in the Old gaucho barbecue accompanied by the South America and Antarctica in the
Quarter of Valparaso. Tick, tick, tick. Argentinian bandonen. All this winter. Travelling all that way and dont
Its amazing what one can pack into reflects Holland America want to miss the White Continent?
the course of two weeks on Holland Lines commitment to Then extend your stay: the 21day
America Lines South American the finest on-board South America and Antarctica
Passage. Sailing from Buenos Aires, guest experience, voyage on board ms Zaandam
Argentina to Valparaso (Santiago), which include s operates in December
Chile, and vice versa, from October 2016 attentive service, 2016 and January 2017.
to April 2017, with stops in Montevideo, spacious suites While additional cruises
Uruguay and the Falkland Islands, this and a high staff- in the region tick off the
once-in-a-lifetime journey is the chance to-guest ratio. continents other big draws:
to see, eat, drink and experience the very the Amazon, Machu Picchu,
best of this dramatic and varied region. For more details, call wildlife in Costa Rica, the Rio
It is the ultimate bucket-list adventure 0843-374 2300 or visit carnival and much more.
and only a cruise could make such a hollandamerica.co.uk
PROMOTION
WELCOME TO YO U R WO R L D
AWARD-WINNING CRUISE LINE SEABOURNS EXCLUSIVE PARTNERSHIP WITH UNESCO
GRANTS ACCESS TO THE WORLDS MOST EXCEPTIONAL PLACES IN FINE STYLE
S
eabourn shares with its guests a genuine passion
for exploring the worlds most exceptional
destinations. Its fleet of six-star, small ships
journey to iconic and off-the-beaten-track
locations across seven continents, giving
discerning guests the opportunity for new discoveries and
immersion in every location.
Seabourn goes the extra mile to make every journey
unforgettable from the cosseting, luxury environs of
its spacious, all-inclusive ships which have the feel of a
private club to the unrivalled personal service, excellent
cuisine and Champagne on tap.
With this eye for the extraordinary, Seabourn has forged
an exclusive alliance with UNESCO to support sustainable
tourism while offering travellers unparalleled experiences
and insight into the worlds most treasured monuments and PERU
landscapes. In 2016, its guests have the opportunity to visit Historic Sanctuary
82 World Heritage Sites including all of those featured here of Machu Picchu
through its optional World Heritage and Discovery Tours. Located 2,430m up in a
In every destination, UNESCO experts and guest speakers tropical forest, this incredible
will share their insights with guests on and off the ships, urban creation of the Inca
bringing these incredible places to life with originality and Empire was inscribed by
making every Seabourn journey utterly unique. UNESCO in 1983.
TURKEY Ephesus CROATIA

Comprising successive Old City of Dubrovnik
Hellenistic and Roman The Pearl of the Adriatic,
coastal settlements, this located on the Dalmatian
remarkable ancient city coast, Dubrovnik was
was inscribed by UNESCO inscribed on the World
in 2015. Seabourn hosts Heritage List in 1979 for
private classical concerts its Gothic, Renaissance
for guests under the stars and Baroque churches,
in this enchanting site. monasteries and palaces.
PROMOTION
SPAIN
Works of Antoni
Gaud, Barcelona
Seven works of Gaud in
or near Barcelona were
inscribed on the World
Heritage List in 1984,
including Casa Batll
and the Sagrada Familia.
AUSTRALIA
Sydney Opera House
Listed in 1973, the Sydney
Opera House is a great
architectural work of the
twentieth century that
brings together innovation
in both architectural form
and structural design.
JORDAN Petra
Surrounded by mountains
and halfbuilt, halfcarved
into the rock, Petra - one
of the worlds most famous
archaeological sites - is
JAPAN where ancient Eastern
Itsukushima Shinto Shrine traditions blend with
Inscribed in 1996, this Hellenistic architecture.
shrine on the island of
Itsukushima, with its famous
torii gate floating in the
Seto Inland Sea, plays on the
contrasts in colour and form
between mountains and sea.
MALAYSIA
Melaka and George Town,
Historic Cities of the
Straits of Malacca
Melaka (pictured) and George
Town developed over 500
years of trading and cultural
exchanges between East and
West in the Straits of Malacca.
They were inscribed on the Seabourn offers cruises on seven continents. For details of its itineraries and
World Heritage List in 2011. World Heritage and Discovery Tours, call 0843-373 2000 or visit seabourn.com
GALAPAGOS
FROM LEFT Redfooted booby, shorteared owl and Sally Lightfoot crab on Genovesa
island. Flamingoes on Rbida island. Giant tortoise in Santa Cruzs Scalesia forest
Meet the locals
FROM LEFT Marine iguanas bask in the sunshine. Sea lion

and pelican on Eden Islet. Bluefooted booby nurturing
an egg. Frigatebirds circle a fishing boat off Plaza Sur
52
GALAPAGOS
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Great frigatebird on North Seymour. Swallowtailed

gull on Plaza Sur. Sea Lions on Espaola. Land iguana on Plaza Sur. BELOW
Marine iguanas on Santa Cruz. Pelican on Eden Islet. Cruising the islands
TO WITNESS THE STRANGE LANDS AND FEARLESS INHABITANTS OF THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS IS A DEEPLY
HUMBLING EXPERIENCE, AS CHRIS CALDICOTT DISCOVERED ON A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPEDITION CRUISE
INTO THE CRUCIBLE OF EVOLUTION
O verhead an albatross floats motionless in the air,

its eight-foot wingspan silhouetted against the
deep-blue sky as it effortlessly rides the thermals.
Mesmerised by these aerobatics, I hardly notice the young sea lion waddle
over the sand, pause a few feet away, utter a grunt as if introducing itself,
then let out a long yawn before flopping down asleep beside me. When
I head towards the milky sea of Espaolas Baha Gardner to snorkel, it
springs to life like an excited puppy and joins me in the shallows. By the
time I reach the offshore reef there is a posse of juvenile sea lions ducking
and diving all around me. It feels good to have their company as I drift
past white-tipped sharks, shoals of yellow-tailed razor surgeonfish and
giant stingrays. So, this is what its like to be in the Galpagos. >
53
GALAPAGOS
Ok guys, lets make a break for it. Follow me, announced

Juan Carlos, a guide of 35 years experience, as our Zodiac
made a dry landing at Punta Surez, on the western end of
Espaola island, earlier that morning. The rocks were carpeted
in sunbathing marine iguanas, spiky, prehistoric-looking
creatures who sprayed us with salt, expelled like a sneeze from
glands above their nostrils, as we walked by. Once clear of the
shore, we climbed up to the plateau. Far below, waves pounded
the coast and blowholes shot water high into the air. All around
us, red-billed tropicbirds and swallow-tailed gulls dived for fish,
then engaged in spectacular aerial dogfights to avoid being
mugged of their prize by gangs of frigatebirds.
From April to December, the plateau is the sole breeding
ground for the worlds entire population (around 30,000) of
waved albatross. Males and females mate for life and take it in
turns to sit on their single-egg nests, getting up occasionally
to honk and rub their beaks together in a kissing dance. Its a
steady hike up to see them and, this being right on the equator,
the sun is intense so, even with frequent stops, it is a relief when
we set off to swim in the cool waters of Baha Gardner.
At 3.2 million years, Espaola is one of the oldest islands
FROM TOP Bartolom island. Marine iguanas and a baby heron in the Galpagos, a volcanic archipelago that straddles the
(below) on Eden Islet off Santa Cruz island. A wet landing equator, 620 miles off the Pacific coast of Ecuador. At 4,000
on Espaola on one of the Silver Galapagos Zodiacs million years younger than the mainland, its newest islands are
still being formed, as the Nazca plate passes over a hot spot of
volcanic activity that erupts
through the Earths crust in lava
WE TIPTOED THROUGH A MULTITUDE OF flows. The resulting sub-marine
PREHISTORIC-LOOKING MARINE mountains eventually reach the
surface as islands and, as they
IGUANAS SPRAYED US WITH
AS THEY cool, age and drift, life begins
and, eventually, proliferates,
SALT EXPELLED LIKE A SNEEZE creating a living museum of the
FROM GLANDS ABOVE THEIR NOSTRILS theory of evolution.
Today 97 per cent of
the Galpagos is a heavily
protected national park with strict limits on who can go where
and when. On uninhabited islands, no group larger than 16 is
permitted; all must have a registered guide to ensure no-one
strays beyond designated pathways; and all landings must be in
small rubber boats, or Zodiacs, either dry onto rocks or wet by
jumping into the sea and wading ashore. Every island is different
depending on its age, landscape and which species of flora and
fauna have colonised it, and so, for the broadest experience of
this extraordinary diversity, it is advisable to sign up for a cruise
that can transport you via Zodiacs to different islands every day.
I chose a seven-night Silversea Expedition cruise out of Baltra
on board Silver Galapagos, which offers two routes: one sailing
west towards the younger islands, with their live volcanoes and
an emphasis on marine life, snorkelling and other water-based
activities, and the other, the more land-based, north-central
route. I opted for the latter. Even though some of the same
islands are visited on both voyages, landings are at different
locations so some passengers sign up for both cruises one after
the other. Landing sites work on a rota system among the 80
or so vessels permitted to carry tourists, to ensure minimum
impact on the fragile ecosystems. The wonderful effect of this is
to make you feel like you have each and every place to yourself.
Yet, no one seems to have told any of the Galpagos species
54
GALAPAGOS
about the compulsory two-metres-between-humans-and-

wildlife rule: blue- and red-footed boobies at Punta Pitt on San
Christbal and Darwin Bay on Genovesa wobbled over to show-
off their lipstick-red and cobalt-blue feet; on North Seymour
the bushes were alive with Magnificent frigatebirds displaying
inflated pillar-box-red throat glands; inquisitive short-eared
owls, also on Genovesa, stared straight into the camera lens;
the pink flamingos of Rbida balanced motionless on one leg
as we passed. And then there were the sea lions, which were A blowhole at Punta Surez, Espaola.
everywhere, forming the welcome committee on every beach BELOW Silver Galapagos in port, and life on board
and even slumbering on harbour benches in Puerto Baquerizo
on San Christbal, one of two populated islands we visited.
On the slopes of the extinct volcano on Santa Cruz, dandelion
seeds, light enough to be delivered on the wind, have taken root
and grown without competition into towering forests of Scalesia.
Moisture sucked from the gathering clouds drips down their
trunks giving life to a tropical Eden of ferns, lichens, orchids
and grasses that provide grazing for giant tortoises that weigh
up to 250kg and live for up to 170 years. Trekking through this
enchanted forest felt like being in a scene from Gullivers Travels.
By contrast, in Sullivan Bay on Santiago, I walked over a lifeless
field of lava, twisted into surreal rope-shaped patterns worthy
of an exhibition at Tate Modern. Even this apparent wilderness
had been colonised by clumps of lava cacti and insects.
At the welcome briefing on board Silver Galapagos, the head
naturalist had announced:
This is an expedition we
aim to keep you off the boat as SEA LIONS WERE EVERYWHERE:
much as possible! Good news, I
thought. However, life on board
WELCOME
THEY FORMED THE
also turned out to be rather COMMITTEE ON EVERY BEACH
wonderful; a floating boutique
hotel with butlers, cocktails and
canaps, deck-top lunches of grilled giant tiger prawns and zingy
ceviches, and gourmet dinners with fresh local fish. It was easy
to slip into the routine of early breakfasts before a packed daily
programme of Zodiac tours, deep-water snorkelling, kayaking,
beach swimming and less talking, more walking treks, all in
the company of knowledgeable guides. The daily lectures, on
everything from the courtship dance of the blue-footed booby
to how the Galpagos inspired Darwin to publish his theory of
evolution in On the Origin of Species, were unmissable.
With a capacity for 100 guests and 74 crew, Silver Galapagos 1. Baltra. 2. Genovesa.
is among the largest vessels permitted. My fellow travellers were 3. North Seymour.
mostly recently retired Americans, a smattering of Europeans 4. Santiago. 5. Rbida.
and one family of four generations on the trip of a lifetime. 6. Santa Cruz. 7. San
Shorts, T-shirts and good walking sandals were fine for most Cristbal. 8. Espaola.
excursions, while wet suits, snorkelling equipment, waterproof 9. Plaza Sur
backpacks, water bottles and rubber boots were supplied. The
guides all carried binoculars which they were happy share. ESSENTIALS
I found my close encounters with the strange and fearless WHEN TO GO Although the Galpagos has a yearround mild climate,
creatures of the Galpagos deeply moving. My most enduring January to May is warmer with calmer seas and less wind but occasional
memory is of swimming with the inquisitive sea lion pups an rain; the June to December dry season is cooler with rougher seas.
experience that would melt the heart of even the most world- HOW Silversea Cruises (0844251 0833; silversea.com)
weary traveller. I left the ship with a heavy heart but it didnt Silver Galapagos offers sevenday roundtrip voyages from Baltra
last. On the short drive to Baltra airport, our bus screeched to yearround. Routes alternate weekly between the western islands and
a halt: Sorry! Land iguana crossing the road, announced the those in the northcentral part of the archipelago. Fares start from
driver. The mini monster raised its golden head as we passed, as 6,728pp, including flights and a twonight precruise stay at Casa
if saluting farewell, then carried on its way. D Gangotena (casagangotena.com) in the Ecuadorian capital, Quito.
55
CRUISE
5
Best
REGIONS
...
ANTARCTICA
2016 marks the fiftieth anniversary of

commercial tourism in Antarctica and
the most popular and practical way to
see the White Continent is to travel there
RURAL RUSSIA
Bookended by Moscow and St Petersburg,

a journey on the Volga (including the
Volga-Baltic Waterway and the Svir and
Neva rivers), is the most rewarding way
by by ship. Beyond the rite of passage that

is the Drake Passage, on the Peninsula
itself, cruising enables you to cover great
distances through sea ice, surrounded
to see rural Russia. The cities vanish
from your consciousness as the ship
cruises into bucolic countryside, past
dachas and churches. Quiet compared
boat on all sides by icebergs, whales and

penguins. As well as your floating hotel,
the ship provides the launch for Zodiacs
to allow close-up wildlife spotting.
HOW Quark Expeditions (quarkexpeditions.com)
to many European rivers, highlights
include Kizhi island World Heritage
Site, accessible only by boat, and lakes
Ladoga and Onega, the largest in Europe.
HOW Viking River Cruises (vikingrivercruises.
LIKE THE GALAPAGOS, FOR SOME offers 11 and 12day journeys to Antarctica from co.uk) 13day Waterways of the Tsars cruise, on
PLACES ON EARTH ONLY A SHIP November to March on three 100200 passenger one of three ships (205 passengers), sails May to
WILL DO, SAYS KATE CROCKETT ships. From 3,700pp, with flights. October and costs from 3,595pp, with flights.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA COASTAL BURMA NORTHWEST PASSAGE
For Kambaraumba village in Papua Its the kind of place where you can sail Pack your spirit of adventure and
New Guinea, the Sepik River holds a for days and meet no one except for the thermals for a summertime departure
special importance. The men of its tribe odd fisherman in a dug-out canoe. A to the Canadian Arctic to transit the
sport tattoos and scars that imitate the sprinkling of more than 800 mostly- legendary sea route connecting the
scales of the crocodile, a creature they deserted islands in Burmas remote Pacific and northern Atlantic Oceans
revere. The chance to meet such unique south, the Mergui Archipelago is home through the Arctic. The journey is made
people is the reward for travelling on to the Moken sea gypsies. It is only possible in August by retreating sea ice,
the countrys waterways truly the best accessible by boat, with February and which also reveals a wealth of wildlife,
way to discover the culture and wildlife, March the best time for snorkelling and from seal, walrus and birdlife colonies,
much of which is hidden in the interior. diving in clear water on colourful reefs to big-ticket sightings such as humpback
By boat is also the only way to appreciate off deserted beaches. If Burma is still whales. Musk ox may be spotted on shore
PNGs pristine reefs, which offer some of new territory for global tourism, then in Canada and Greenland and, if youre
the worlds finest diving and snorkelling. its coast is truly the final frontier. lucky, the occasional polar bear.
HOW Steppes Travels (steppestravel.co.uk) 17 HOW Pandaw (pandaw.com) offers four new, HOW Crystal Cruises (crystalcruises.co.uk) sails
day Exploratory Adventure Cruise to Papua New 11day voyages to Burmas Mergui Archipelago the Northwest Passage for the first time in 2016,
Guinea, with guest naturalist Chris Packham, on in February and March 2016 on MY Drenec offering a 32day voyage from Anchorage to New
True North (32 passengers), departs the UK on (10 passengers). From 4,995pp with flights, the York on board Crystal Serenity (1,070 passengers).
November 5. From 11,995pp, with flights. sevennight cruise and one night in Rangoon. From 15,494pp, cruise only. D
56
PROMOTION
FREE TO
EXPLORE
COMPLIMENTARY EXCURSIONS INCLUDED ON
ALL VIKING OCEAN AND RIVER CRUISES ENSURE
GUESTS MAKE THE MOST OF EVERY DESTINATION
T
here is nothing quite like that moment on a cruise
when you wake up in the morning and pull back the
curtain to see the skyline of a new city from your
window. Almost every new day on board a Viking
ocean or river cruise begins in a new destination, and
its no coincidence that key landmarks are often just a stones
throw from port. Viking is all about helping you explore the
world; delivering you to the most exciting destinations in
complete comfort but, most of all, doing everything it can
to ensure you make the most of every place you tick off your
bucket list. It goes without saying that youll be made to feel
at home on board Vikings fleet of five-star ships, but Viking is
also keen to ensure that you and fellow guests disembark and
explore the cities around you. To this end, it offers an array
of excursions. And, better still, many excursions including
all those featured here are included in Vikings inclusive
price, which means you can explore to your hearts content
and not pay a penny extra.
BALTICS &
NORTHERN EUROPE
Viking Ocean Cruises offers a host of
journeys that embrace the unmissable
sights of Scandinavia and the Baltics.
A complimentary tour of Tallins
wellpreserved Old Town features on
journeys to Estonia, while a host of
excursions in Norwegian ports ensure
guests experience the best of the
country whose flag Vikings ships bear.
The 15day Into the Midnight Sun
cruise, taking place in June 2016
on board new ship Viking Sea, which
joins the fleet in April 2016, includes
a concert in the cathedral in Bod in
the Arctic Circle, and excursions to
the North Cape and to Eagles Bend
Overlook on Geirangerfjord (pictured),
a Unesco World Heritage Site. Also
in the fjords, the Viking Homelands
itinerary, offered by Viking Star and
Viking Sea from May to September,
includes a walking tour and mountain
farm visit near the town of Flm.
PROMOTION
HOLY LANDS
CHINA Exploring the wealth of sacred
In Asia, Viking offers journeys on sites in the Eastern Mediterranean,
three of the regions legendary the 15day Ancient Empires and
waterways - the Mekong, the Holy Lands cruise, taking place in
Irrawaddy and the Yangtze. The November 2016 on board Viking Sea,
Yangtze cruise, for example, takes warrants special mention. Bookended
in much more than just the Three by comprehensive explorations in
Gorges: the journey includes all of Rome and Istanbul - including guided
the countrys major highlights, from visits to the Colosseum, Roman Forum
Beijing to Shanghai, as part of a and Vatican City, and Istanbuls Hagia
13day tour of the Imperial Jewels of Sophia and labyrinthine Grand Bazaar
China. In Beijing alone, the itinerary - this cruise travels into the heart of
features inclusive excursions to the worlds major religions over three
Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden full days spent in Israel. The itinerary
City (pictured), as well as the Great includes visits to Jerusalem (pictured),
Wall and the Ming Tombs. There is also Bethlehem and Nazareth and includes
the chance to get under the skin of life complimentary excursions to the
in the Chinese capital, with a rickshaw ancient city of Acre and the chance
ride through the narrow alleyways, to ascend Mount Carmel. On the
known as hutong, that weave through mountains slope overlooking the city,
the city, plus a visit to one of the you can also stroll in the magnificent
traditional courtyard homes that terraced Hanging Gardens of Haifa. A
characterise these neighbourhoods. visit to the Dead Sea is also included,
as is a tour with a knowledgeable local
guide in Jerusalem - the centre of
Christianity, Judaism and Islam.
EUROPEAN
RIVERS
With 59 ships on 13 rivers, Viking
River Cruises has Europe covered, EASTERN
east to west. From classic journeys on MEDITERRANEAN
the majestic Rhine and Danube to the Viking Star and her sister ship
lessvisited Elbe or the Douro rivers, Viking Sea, which makes its maiden
there is something for everyone, voyage in April, will spend spring,
throughout the year. The same goes late summer and autumn of 2016 in
for the complimentary excursions, of the Mediterranean cruising classic
which there are numerous. Highlights itineraries such as the 10day Empires
include a flamenco performance of the Mediterranean journey. The
and lunch in Salamanca for guests cruise includes no fewer than eight
on board Douro cruises; dinner and legendary destinations between
wine tasting in a chteau for guests in Venice and Istanbul. Among the
Bordeaux; Beaujolais tasting for those included excursions are a visit to the
cruising in Southern France; city tours Dominican monastery in Dubrovnik
of Buda and Pest in Budapest, as well a to see its Renaissance paintings, and
chance to see the Hungarian capitals the opportunity to bathe in thermal
striking parliament building on the springs on the island of Palea Kameni,
riverside (pictured), as part of the off the coast of Santorini (pictured).
Danube itineraries. Additionally, visits Perhaps unsurprisingly, this desirable
to the Meissen porcelain factory and journey is a hot ticket, with spring
beer tasting at Litomerice are included itineraries already sold out - so book
as part of Vikings 10day journeys on now for late summer and autumn.
the Elegant Elbe through Germany
and the Czech Republic.
For more information on Viking cruises and included excursions, or to book,
call 0800-652 2469 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk
PROMOTION
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Manicured gardens greet

guests at this manor house hotel. AGs Restaurant,
led by Executive Chef Darrel Wilde, has three AA
Rosettes. Cedar Lodge Suites feature a two
person bath and the majority have a balcony or
terrace. Utopia Spas outdoor hot tub and sauna
E S CA P E T O T H E C O U N T RY
SET IN 120 ACRES OF SUSSEX COUNTRYSIDE, FIVE-STAR ALEXANDER HOUSE HOTEL AND UTOPIA SPA
IS THE QUINTESSENTIALLY ENGLISH RETREAT FOR REST AND RELAXATION
n easy escape from London, Alexander House Also newly opened, and further raising the bar, are Alexander
A Hotel and Utopia Spa is a little-known gem and

the inviting rural bolthole. This picturesque
former manor house, which is a member of Small
Luxury Hotels of the World, is a tranquil haven set
in 120 acres of manicured gardens and countryside in Sussex.
A five-star, 58-room property, complete with an award-
winning restaurant and spa, Alexander House is one of the
Houses 19 luxurious Cedar Lodge Suites, many of which
feature a private south-facing balcony or terrace overlooking
the gardens and countryside. All offer full access to the Utopia
Spa and come with a dedicated personal concierge to attend
to guests every need. For those looking for absolute privacy,
there is the two-bedroom luxury Gatehouse residence.
As cosseting as Alexander House is, it would be remiss to
finest hotels outside London. It is also conveniently located visit without exploring the impressive grounds and environs.
for Gatwick airport. The expansive estate has a tennis court, a croquet lawn,
The hotels extensive Utopia Spa is putting green and a giant chess board
a destination in its own right, taking for summer days, plus year-round bicycle
guests on a serene personalised journey READER OFFER hire and a marked trekking trail. And
to relieve the stresses and strains of Book two nights dinner, bed and breakfast for those urbanites who left London in a
everyday life. There are 25 treatment accommodation and receive a third hurry, the helpful staff will even lend a
rooms, various relaxation lounges and a night complimentary. Only valid when pair of Wellington boots.
host of therapists providing revitalising booking online using the promotional code
treatments. Theres also an outdoor barrel house&garden. Valid February 1- A stay at Alexander House Hotel costs from
sauna and the newly opened Zen Garden December 30, 2016. Subject to availability. 125pp for dinner, bed and breakfast.
Terrace, with four private cedar hot tubs. 013420-714914; alexanderhotels.co.uk
ITALY
Cave churches
dot the town and
countryside around
Matera, Basilicata
Italy
SEXTANTIO LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA
REDISCOVER THE AUTHENTIC FLAVOUR OF THE

BEL PAESE WITH A WEEKEND IN ONE OF THESE FOUR
SPECIAL PLACES WHERE THE TOURISTS DONT GO >
61
ITALY
Living with
history in
Matera,
Basilicata
Why, I wondered, as I explored
SUNBATHING
Materas magical streets, had I taken so WITH LOCALS ON THE
long to visit this extraordinary town? I lived CONERO RIVIERA, LE MARCHE
in Italy for almost a decade, and have been From the heights of the coastal road, the
drawn to the country since the 1980s, but views of the cerulean Adriatic Sea are
only recently did I head to Basilicata, in mesmerising. Look down and there are
the instep of the boot, to discover a place tantalising glimpses of whitepebble beaches
that is as captivating as any in Europe. fringed by inviting, aquamarine water.
Perhaps it was what I knew by repute, Welcome to the Conero Riviera, a 20km
for until the 1950s this was one of Italys stretch of coast between Ancona and Numana
poorest towns, some 20,000 people forced that the Italians would rather keep to
to live in squalor in the sassi, a honeycomb themselves. It forms part of the Monte
of ancient caves beneath Materas medieval Conero National Park, a verdant spur that
streets. Only in the 1960s was the area protrudes roughly halfway down Le Marche.
cleared and its inhabitants rehoused. Forget the overpriced, overcrowded hotspots
Recently, however, the abandoned caves of the west coast, this is where to experience
have been reclaimed, first by squatters an authentically Italian beachside idyll, or as
and artists, latterly by bars, restaurants the Italians like to put it, La dolce far niente
and hotels, sparking an extraordinary roughly, the sweetness of doing nothing.
change in Materas fortunes. The caves are The loveliest swathe is between Portonovo
remarkable both those that have been and Sirolo, where the forested Monte Conero
reclaimed and those that are eerily empty. rises sharply from the sea and the beaches
But this would be an enchanting town are reached by a series of dizzying bends. The
even without the sassi, thanks in part to beach at Portonovo is split by the Fortino
those magical streets a labyrinth of tiny Napoleonico built by Napoleon to keep English
alleys and time-worn cobbles but also to ships at bay and now a novel setting for a
the food and wine youll find nowhere else hotel, while the nearby Torre de Bosis was
(try stracinate di grano arso, for example, built in 1716 by Pope Clemente to protect
a pasta with a distinctive nutty flavour) the coast from Turkish pirates.
and to the 155 ancient and fresco-swathed Beach clubs line the waters edge and are
chiese rupestri, or cave churches, that dot as Italian a tradition as espresso. As with
the town and its otherworldly countryside. most things in Italy, its a family affair with
WHEN TO GO Visit any time outside the sweltering several generations hitting the beach
months of June to September. together. But here, even in the height of
HOW Bari airport, 45 minutes away, is served by direct summer, Italian is the only language you will
flights from the UK with Ryanair, easyJet and British hear either side of your sunlounger.
Airways. Stay at Le Grotte della Civita (sextantio.it), As the last of Portonovos sunbathers wend
the best of the cave hotels. Doubles from 150, B&B. their way home, deck chairs are packed away
Tim Jepson and restaurants set up tables on the sand.
BOARD; SEXTANTIO LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA; TIM SLESINGER
ANNA QUAGLIA/ISTOCK; KASTO80/ISTOCK; ITALIAN TOURIST
Every menu features wild mussels, a point of

local gastronomic pride, served steamed in
their shells or in paccheri pasta with tomato
and fennel fronds. Its the perfect end to a
day at the beach sweet nothing indeed.
WHEN TO GO May to September.
HOW The Conero Riviera is 30 minutes from
Ancona airport, which is served by Ryanair from
Stansted. Stay at Hotel Emilia (hotelemilia.com).
Materas caves
Doubles from 120, B&B. Aoife ORiordain
have been revitalised
62
ITALY
In search of Italian black

gold in Norcia , Umbria
Three years without so much as a weekend
away without our three girls is a long time;
therefore, we chose our destination - Norcia in
Umbria, a medieval walled city in the foothills
of the Sibillini Mountains - carefully. High on
the wish list were Norcias culinary attractions:
delicate prosciutto, cheeses and lentils from
Castelluccio di Norcia in the national park. We
timed our trip to coincide with truffle season.
Fortified with a breakfast of truffled omelette
and Prosciutto di Norcia, we set off in the autumn
Ballar market.
mist in search of melanosporum Vittadini. Our
LEFT Palermos
transport was an unprepossessing Fiat and our
ancient streets
guide Stefano (inset, below) wore an intriguing
fishermansstyle jacket with all sorts of
Strolling the crumbling pockets and loops for tools. His marmalade
mongrel Brigante ran ahead down the track,
either side of which were the gnarly oak roots
heart of Palermo, Sicily that host the prize tubers we were here for. Our
fears of not finding anything proved unfounded
You never forget Palermo. Long after you return home, the Sicilian capitals within minutes, as Brigante unearthed one
dark beauty half malignant, half sublime will continue to haunt you. This black nugget after another in the damp earth.
mysterious city is unlike anywhere else in Europe. It has been colonised by We sniffed, handled and sizedup each one
many great civilisations, from the Greeks and Romans to the Byzantines, Arabs before it went into the jacket.
and Normans, and that cultural cocktail is reflected in its architecture, food, Back at Palazzo Seneca, the 24room hotel
language and the watchful, heavy-lidded faces that pass you in the street. owned by the Bianconi family that was home for
To experience the beating heart of Palermo, set aside a morning to wander the weekend, the chef at restaurant Vespasia
through one of its three great markets. The guidebooks will tell you to go to the served the best Italian food we have ever
Vucciria. Fascinating as this rotten, crumbling heart of the city still is, Vuccirias tasted. We departed three days later laden with
market is a shadow of its former self. Ballar market is where the serious food (vacuumsealed) truffles, lentils, prosciutto
shopping takes place. Every imaginable foodstuff is here. The meat stalls feature and the Bianconis own olive oil, which, like the
macabre animal heads and strings of hanging intestines. The fruit and vegetable many flavours of Norcia, had
stalls are a blaze of colour and texture. Corrupt-sweet smells that positive- captivated our tastebuds. D
negative sensation that is so particular to Palermo permeate the air. And then
theres the crowd: housewives haggle; rotund stallholders call out in coarse,
gravelly cries; card games take place in grubby corners, and fat stray dogs linger,
nosing for titbits.
You could spend an entire weekend exploring Palermos markets, but it would
be a crime to miss its architectural and artistic treasures. They include the jewel-
like Palatine Chapel, built in the twelfth century, and Monreale, 20 minutes up the
hill by bus, a Norman cathedral whose interiors glisten with heavenly Byzantine Sibillini National Park. BELOW Norcia town
mosaics. Sooty Baroque
churches dot the streets. My
own favourite is the dank, THE SICILIAN CAPITALS DARK
spooky San Matteo on
Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
BEAUTY HALF MALIGNANT,
And the lovely old Arabic HALF SUBLIME WILL HAUNT YOU
quarter, known as the
Kalsa, is home to Palazzo
Abatellis, the Regional Gallery of Sicily. Here you will find a painting that, for me,
embodies the strange, unknowable nature of this city: Antonello da Messinas Virgin
Annunciate, painted in the fifteenth century. This hauntingly beautiful Madonna WHEN TO GO Norcias trufflehunting season
in her lapis veil is dark, earthy, and recognisably human, with all the complexity of is October to March, with the top tuber,
experience visible in her wary face. Once seen, never forgotten, just like Palermo. melanosporum Vittadini, found from December.
WHEN TO GO September to November and March to June. HOW Norcia is a twohour drive from Rome or
HOW Fly direct to Palermo from Gatwick with easyJet. Stay at BB22 (bb22.it), a tiny but sophisticated Ancona. Stay at Palazzo Seneca (palazzoseneca.
B&B in a fifteenthcentury palazzo in the old heart of the city. Doubles from 120, B&B. Kate Quill com). Doubles from 200, B&B. Kate Slesinger
63
PROMOTION
INSPIRED ADVENTURE S
PIONEERS OF SOFT ADVENTURE TRAVEL, ABERCROMBIE & KENT CONTINUES TO OPEN UP A WORLD OF
EXCITING DESTINATIONS AND EXPERIENCES, DELIVERED BY THE FINEST LOCAL, SPECIALIST GUIDES
H
anoi a bicycle-crazy city in a A&Ks private villa and chalet collection, immersive, where soft adventure is
country where two wheels are inspired family holiday portfolio, balanced with soft linens in fine hotels.
king. Where better to begin cruising and private jet journeys, and As with all A&K itineraries, the Vietnam
a leisurely pedal-powered A&Ks world becomes your oyster. tour, with highlights including cycling
adventure and get under the The Vietnam Cycling Tour is a fine in Hanois historic Old Quarter and
skin of everyday life in Vietnam? example of what A&K does so well through paddy fields near Hoi An,
Abercrombie & Kent has a reputation embracing an intriguing destination in a can be tailored to a clients own needs
for pioneering soft adventure travel. manner that is accessible and culturally and timescale.
What started more than 50 years ago as With the same commitment to creating
a simple safari operator, taking guests lasting memories, A&K offers many more
on journeys through East Africa, is now READER OFFER enticing activity-led holidays, each of
a global specialist offering tailor-made Book an Abercrombie & Kent holiday which can be tailored and often include
travel experiences and new perspectives before February 29, 2016 and receive exclusive experiences or access. A cruise
in every conceivable destination, from complimentary airport transfers. on the Nile, for example, includes a visit
stargazing in the Atacama Desert to For more details, visit to the tomb of Nefertari in the Valley of
fly-drive touring in New England and abercrombiekent.co.uk/houseandgarden the Queens, which has been closed to
cycling in rural Vietnam. Add to this the wider public since 1950; while the
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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE five-day Classic Russia tour, to Moscow

Get under the skin of a and St Petersburg, includes a rare out-
country with an activity of-hours peek inside the Peterhof Palace.
led holiday such as the Such compelling city breaks are much in
Vietnam Cycling Tour. A demand and A&K has responded with
Nile cruise is the perfect more thoughtful ideas such as European
way to see Egypts ancient art escapes, wine tasting in Porto and
and pleasingly crowdfree bacari tours of Venice.
sites. Peru is increasingly But A&Ks roots are not forgotten: it
accessible, with new direct remains the go-to specialist for African
flights to Lima with British safari, be that a great-value first-time
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Sebastin and the Italian
city of Florence are For more information, call 01242-546625
popular city breaks or visit abercrombiekent.co.uk
INDIA
s p i c e
o u r &
C ol
FAY MASCHLER REVISITS THE LANDSCAPE
OF HER PARENTS EARLY LIVES IN INDIA
WITH A KALEIDOSCOPIC VISUAL AND
CULINARY TOUR OF RAJASTHAN
Mehrangarh Fort
above the blue
city of Jodhpur
M y sister Beth and I were both born in Indian hill stations
summer babies. Our British parents returned to the UK
when we were quite small but later in life someone said
to me at a party: You were born in India, werent you? You
have that look of a forced spring bulb grown under the
bed. It didnt seem exactly a compliment, but what I do
acknowledge is childhood force-feeding of wistful stories
from our mum about her 12-year Indian sojourn. She had
loved her adventures there such a change from Carlisle >
67
INDIA
FROM LEFT Inside Mehrangarh Fort.

Night views of Jodhpur from the Fort
and had responded more creatively than the average memsahib employed the red sandstone that is the traditional building
to what was on offer; learning a bit of Hindi, accompanying the block here with a modern sensibility in graphic jaali screens.
cook to the bazaar to buy food, using the sensual fabrics to great The pool is an oasis as you leave behind the clamour of Sardar
effect in many houses as she moved about the vast country. Market and the terrace of the elevated Darikhana restaurant
Her anecdotes were tedious to a childs ear. An erratic use of seems almost on a hand-holding relationship with the Fort.
Hindi words for certain household objects when overheard by The shadow of the Clock Tower overlooking the bazaar is a
our school friends could make us squirm. Arriving in Jodhpur, place to consider the resilience of your digestion. The Chouhan
the first stop on a recent short tour of Rajasthan that Beth and Omelette Shop and Shri Mishrilal Hotel, manufacturers of
I were making together in part a pilgrimage to recollected World Fame Makhaniya Lassi (yogurt drink), are endorsed
memories of our parents the rush of shame was revisited. by guidebooks and considered reasonably safe and, in the case
Mummy had insisted on calling those trousers with a snug of the lassi, absolutely delicious. Generally, unless it is fished
fit from calf to ankle that we wore for riding lessons joad-purs from roiling, boiling oil, other street food is not advised for
(following the correct local pronunciation), while Audrey, our Westerners. Beth and I felt mildly intrepid leaving Raas to
riding teacher whom we worshipped unreservedly, called walk to Indique restaurant situated on the roof of the hotel Pal
them jod-purs. How callow youth can be. Now on this visit to Haveli. Climbing the many steps is rewarded with a fabulous
Rajasthans second city where my parents had lived and about panoramic view, good food, and waiters in orange turbans
which I had heard so much I wished I had listened to my late entering into the idea that an evening out should be fun.
mother more attentively and asked lots of questions. Home is where you find the best cooking is a truism about
Jodhpur is an extraordinary place: its fifteenth-century India that can be vexatious if you have no friends there. A rather
Mehrangarh Fort built, according to Kipling, by angels, fairies delightful solution is a cookery lesson at a homestay, such as
and giants hovers over the city and invades your consciousness. that offered by Chandrashekhar and Bhavna Singh in their
Eyes are constantly drawn up to its singular mix of fragility and Jodhpur house decorated with portraits of Maharajah relatives.
intimidation, and houses on the hillside below painted Brahmin Charming Bhavna demonstrates various dishes, and gives out
blue are like a beautiful skirt drawn decorously around. recipes and a shiny metal box for spices to take home. The
Raas boutique hotel in the old city, once the home of a thakur resulting lunch en famille concluded with halva. Making all
(nobleman), where we stayed for the first three nights, has Indian desserts is cumbersome, pronounced her husband.
FROM LEFT Jodhpur Clock Tower.

Chillies for sale in the bazaar. Raas
hotel. The Chouhan Omelette Shop
68
INDIA
FROM LEFT Samode Havelis handpainted dining

room and exterior. Dishes from Bukhara in Delhi
Palaces owned by Maharajahs, before a democratised India Jama Masjid mosque and the Old Delhi Bazaar just as Beth
withdrew their privileges and stipends, have almost invariably and I did. As someone who grew up to make a career in writing
become hotels a sort of natural justice. Samode Haveli in about food I can with confidence say to eat the best of the city
Jaipur is one, although the family still inhabit a part of it. It go to both Bukhara in the ITC Maurya Hotel for North-West
is a sprawling architectural assembly, reached by an elephant Frontier kebabs that redefine that word and to Indian Accent
ramp, with a patina of life lived well. One of the sons, Yadavendra at The Manor Hotel in Friends Colony, a quiet congenial place
Singh, takes particular interest in food, especially the traditional to stay. Here, chef-patron Manish Mehrotra takes Indian food
recipes of Rajasthan. The elegant hand-painted dining hall in a completely new direction using subtlety and daring, wit
is the place to try junglee maans, a powerful spicy mutton and whimsy in a parade of extraordinary small dishes. It is a
curry and murgh ka soweta, in which pounded sweetcorn and culinary way of saying that life in India will never stop evolving. D
buttermilk add a singular
flavour to the chicken.
A change of pace at GENERALLY, UNLESS IT IS FISHED FROM
lunchtime, maybe after
an elephant ride up to the
ROILING, BOILING OIL, STREET FOOD
Amer Fort, can be had in IS NOT ADVISED FOR WESTERNERS
the bustling vegetarian
LMB restaurant in the
heart of the city since 1727 where the thali is a wonder of
culinary ingenuity. A more refined and non-vegetarian thali was
served at dinner at Sujn Rajmahal Palace, restored under the
aegis of Rajmata Padmini Devi of Jaipur. Her determination to
embrace the future with quiet resilience has become a riot of
flamboyant overkill; brilliant.
I tried to tease out of my memory tales of Delhi from my
mother, where she must have marvelled at the Red Fort, the
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Homestay

host and cook Bhavna Singh.
Making bread. Vegetarian thali
ESSENTIALS
WHEN TO GO The best time to travel to India is from October until the
end of March, after the summer monsoon, when the climate is mild.
However, insiders go to Rajasthan at the end of August or September
when the landscape is lush and green and offpeak prices are available.
HOW A sevennight journey through Rajasthan, staying at Raas in
Jodhpur (raasjodhpur.com), Samode Haveli (samode.com) in Jaipur
CHRIS CALDICOTT; FAY MASCHLER
and The Manor in Delhi (themanordelhi.com), costs from 1,953pp

including flights, private driver, activities and guides, with Original
Travel (0203393 4824; originaltravel.co.uk). UK passport holders
need a visa to travel to India. A new eTourist visa is now available; apply
at least four days before travel. For details, visit indianvisaonline.gov.in
69
CHINA
Touching the sky

SYBIL KAPOOR JOURNEYS THROUGH THE
ANCIENT TOWNS AND LOFTY LANDSCAPES OF
YUNNAN IN SOUTH-WEST CHINA, FROM LIJIANG
TO ZHONGDIAN THE LEGENDARY SHANGRI-LA.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK PARREN TAYLOR
70
CHINA
A couple dressed
for prewedding
photographs walk
through an alleyway
lined with traditional
storehouses in
Longquan Village,
near Lijiang. RIGHT
Pretty historic
watercourses criss
cross Lijiangs Old Town
he fictional lamasery Shangri-La in James Hiltons

book Lost Horizons has a powerful hold on travellers
imaginations. So strong is its draw that in 2001
the Chinese government took the unusual step of renaming
Zhongdian, a remote town in the Tibetan highlands of north-
west Yunnan, Shangri-La. Their aim was to stimulate tourism.
How could it fail? Snuggled beside the breathtaking beauty
of the Three Parallel Rivers Region National Park a Unesco
World Heritage Site, surrounded by snow-capped mountains,
glacial lakes and ancient monasteries its impossible to resist
the lure of their Shangri-La.
Today, many visitors start their journey through Yunnan in
Lijiang, another Unesco World Heritage Site. A spectacular
six-hour drive from Shangri-La, we found starting in Lijiang
helped to avoid altitude sickness, as it is a mere 2,400m above
sea level compared to Shangri-Las 3,300m.
Old Lijiang is very pretty and very lively. Around eight
million tourists (mainly Chinese), all intent on fun, visit its
picturesque narrow cobbled streets each year. The air is filled
with the spicy scent of Sichuan peppercorns and grilled yak
kebabs. Music and laughter drift from the teahouses that line
the towns flower-bedecked bubbling streams.
Amidst the festive atmosphere, it is hard to appreciate Lijiangs
remoteness. Centuries ago, the town was a staging post on the >
71
CHINA
tea-horse road. In exchange for horses, men carried the highly

prized Yunnan Puer tea compact, fermented dried black tea
cakes through the high passes of the Himalayas to Tibet.
The entire region is home to 25 different ethnic groups,
including the Naxi, Yi and Tibetan people. Many still wear
traditional tribal clothing. Both nearby Bisha and Longquan
Village (also known as Shh Old Town) are ancient centres
of Naxi culture. Traditionally, they followed a shamanistic
religion called Dongba.
On the drive from Lijiang to Zhongdian (Shangri-La), we,
like everyone else, stopped at the spectacular Tiger Leaping
Gorge where the Jinsha River, a thunderous muddy tributary to
the upper Yangtze River, roars down a series of rapids through a
deep, narrow gorge at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
and Haba Snow Mountain. The sound is deafening and the
feeling oppressive yet thrilling as vast cliffs, some 2,000 metres
high, tower above, in one of the deepest canyons in the world. >
FROM TOP Historic FROM ABOVE LEFT

Fuxing Chang Teahouse Puer tea tasting and
near Xinying Street wrapped cakes of Puer
and the Big Stone tea at Fuxing Chang
Bridge close to the Teahouse. Making
heart of Lijiang Old Yunnan rice noodles in
Town. The picturesque traditional copper pans
central pond and pagoda in Zhongyi Market,
at Banyan Tree Lijiang both in Lijiang
72
CHINA
ABOVE Naxi people

meet up in Lijiangs
Black Dragon Pool Park
to perform traditional
(and some reinvented)
Naxi dances. RIGHT
Tiger Leaping Gorge
AT TIGER LEAPING GORGE A MUDDY

TRIBUTARY OF THE YANGTZE ROARS
THROUGH A SERIES OF RAPIDS
73
CHINA
As the road continues up into the mountains, the landscape

changes from terraced fields, orchards and hamlets to bare THE SOUND OF YAK BELLS CARRIES
rocks, waterfalls and mountain pines. Tibetan stupas, with
their fluttering prayer flags, start to punctuate the precarious ACROSS THE MEADOWS AND MIST
bends in the road. Sturdy white Tibetan farmhouses with CREEPS OVER THE BARLEY RICKS
intricate painted doors replace mud-brick Naxi houses and
white single-storey Yi farms. And then, just when we felt we
might touch the sky, we caught sight of Zhongdian, on a rolling
plateau, dotted with lakes. In the older part of the town, the
golden roofs of Songzanlin Monastery the largest Buddhist
monastery in Yunnan glint in the evening light.
Stepping out of the car and up through its steep, winding
streets, one has to pause to catch ones breath because the air is
so thin. The sound of yak bells carries across the meadows and
mist creeps over the barley ricks. It is impossible not to gaze in
wonder at the beauty of the view: it looks and feels like Tibet,
which it was before the government redrew the borders in 1951.
It takes time to explore the vast temple complex of Zhongdian
and wander its winding streets while snacking on fresh walnuts
but, before long, the mountains beckon further exploration. TOP Napa Lake INSETS, FROM TOP
We drive out past forests, festooned in lichen, with plum- and grasslands, A Tibetan woman in
coloured birds perched on telephone wires, before arriving at with Zhongdian Conggulong Village,
the Tibetan village of Benzilan. Everyone is out farming. Pigs (ShangriLa) in the near Zhongdian.
snuffle and chickens scratch along its dusty roads, unbothered distance. ABOVE A jug for making
by us peering through the ornate doorways into courtyards Songzanlin Monastery butter tea at Lop
filled with freshly harvested corn, maize and chillies. in Zhongdian with San Mundups studio
The white peaks tempt us higher and higher into the Lhamo Yangtso Lake in Nixi Village.
mountains until at last we reach the seventeenth-century in the foreground Zhongdian Old Town
Dongzhulin Monastery, which feels as though it is floating
above a deep valley. Inside, Hindu gods sit alongside Buddhist
statues and shamanistic paintings cover the walls. Outside,
ravens float on thermal currents and the wind plays the temple
bells. We linger a while longer. As Hiltons hero discovered, this
is a place that tempts you to stay forever. D
74
CHINA
TIBET
ZHONGDIAN
(SHANGRI-LA)
TIGER LEAPING GORGE
LIJIANG
BURMA
YUNNAN
TOP RIGHT A Tibetan INSETS, FROM TOP
woman makes Traditional doorway
her clockwise decoration, Benzilan.
circumambulation of Window detail at
Dongzhulin Monastery Songzanlin Monastery ESSENTIALS
in Benzilan. ABOVE in Zhongdian. Wooden WHEN TO GO April and May are the best time for spring flowers, and
A monk spends a biscuit container October and November for clear days and autumn colour. Avoid the
reflective moment known as a bare, at rainy season through the summer.
in the school at Deqin Yishi Tibetan HOW Abercrombie & Kent (01242547704; abercrombiekent.co.uk)
the monastery Culture Shop in Benzilan offers a 12day Landscapes of Yunnan itinerary, including Lijiang
and Zhongdian from 4,880pp, including flights, transfers, private
guide and accommodation at Banyan Tree Lijiang (banyantree.com) and
/or Amandayan (aman.com), which opened in February in Lijiang, and
the ShangriLa Hylandia (shangrila.com), which opened in August in
Zhongdian. Subject to availability.
75
produced by
BESPOKE
HOUSE & GARDEN, ON SALE FEBRUARY 1, 2016
VILLAS
SPECIAL SECTION INSIDE THE MARCH ISSUE OF

THE FINEST VILLAS AND PRIVATE RESIDENCES TO SHARE WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: VILLA BAYVIEW, COTE DAZUR, FRANCE FROM A&K VILLAS; JAGGED EDGE, QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND FROM ULTRAVILLA;
BASTIDE DE LA PAIX, PROVENCE, FRANCE FROM RED SAVANNAH; VILLA MELANIE, POLLENCA, MALLORCA FROM SIMPSON TRAVEL
AFRICA
Double take
TWO LODGES THAT EMBRACE THE LANDSCAPES OF KRUGER, SOUTH
AFRICA AND BENGUERRA ISLAND, MOZAMBIQUE COMBINE TO MAKE
THE IDEAL SAFARI-BEACH ESCAPE, SAYS PAMELA GOODMAN
ficionados will tell you that
A theres something rather

special about Timbavati
and they wouldnt be wrong.
After decades of poor land
management this private nature reserve
on the western edge of the Kruger has
been making a steady comeback as an
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The private villa at
Azura and the lodges pristine beach on
area of pristine wilderness. Its a work Benguerra Island. Lions are a rewarding sight
in progress, of course, but for discerning in Timbavati on the edge of the Kruger. One
safari goers, this is a region where the of Makanyis distinctive thatched lodges
dedication of
landowners and TOP TIP If you are travelling with children through missing in more lobby) yet the eye is drawn ever outwards
rangers yields a South Africa or visiting the country for a holiday, commercial areas, to the immense, shifting seascape. The
very authentic you will need to take original birth certificates or s t a rg a z i ng tidal range in front of Azura is huge
bush experience. (copies not allowed) for each child under the age adventures. And sometimes theres sea, sometimes theres
Makanyi, of 18. Presentation of these will be asked for at UK when your waiter not but there are always amazing boat
converted from airport checkin desks (as well as on arrival into hugs you goodbye trips to be had diving, snorkelling,
a private estate, SA) and those families without relevant certificates at the end of your picnicking on deserted beaches, dune
opened a s a will be prevented from boarding the plane. stay, you feel climbing and elusive pansy-shell hunting.
seven-room lodge blessed by genuine Or you can saddle up and go for a ride or
in June and its a triumph of enthusiastic African warmth. take an island tour by jeep on labyrinthine
management and beautiful design. The So on to Mozambique and the southern sandy paths, which weave through
rooms are thatched and cavernous with Bazaruto archipelago, which twins primitive settlements of waving children.
sumptuous bathrooms, four-poster beds, perfectly with the Kruger for that fly and Benguerra is the kind of place where the
sitting rooms and open fires all smart flop, safari/beach combination. Few simplest memories are the best the glint
colonial in feel. The main building is even experiences can compare to the of a colourful dhow in the sunset, the
more inviting, its space cleverly divided 10-minute helicopter transfer from impossible blue of the sea, the songs of
between sitting, reading, drinking and Vilanculos on the mainland, across the the fishermen cooking their catch on the
dining with a huge adjoining deck beyond translucent waters of the Mozambique beach and the freshest of seafood served
which all manner of wildlife trundles Channel to Benguerra Island and Azura. each night beneath a shimmering galaxy
past. No matter if you have to work a little Forget shoes, this is sand-between-your- of African stars. D
harder to see the animals than somewhere toes stuff where, although each room WHEN TO GO You can visit the Kruger area allyear
like game-rich Sabi Sands. This place (there are 18) comes with a private pool round but to catch Mozambiques weather at its best,
isnt about ticking boxes, its about living and a butler, the vibe is far more this itinerary is ideal between May and October.
and breathing the landscape and, for informal than this might suggest. The HOW An 11night trip for two with Cazenove + Loyd
that, each experience feels a little special, billowy, breezy atmosphere is punctuated (0207384 2332; cazloyd.com), including one
be it bush pancakes cooked in the wild at by colourful decorative touches (check night in Johannesburg, three at Makanyi (makanyi
dawn, tracking lions which, when you find out the wonderful beaded fish hanging lodge.com) and five at Azura (azura-retreats.com)
them, have a nervous edginess thats often from the ceiling in the restaurant and costs from 4,545pp, with flights and transfers.
77
AFRICA
The call of the wild
BOTSWANA KENYA ZIMBABWE
WHERE A landlocked country in southern WHERE A coastal East African country, WHERE A landlocked country in southern
Africa with two defining features: the divided by the Great Rift Valley. Africa, with fabulous game viewing and,
Okavango Delta and Kalahari Desert. of course, the sensational Victoria Falls.
WHY Kenya is the true home of the safari,
WHY The combination of water-based the biggest draw being the Masai Mara WHY After years of political and economic
(Delta) and land-based (desert) National Reserve. Despite the appalling turmoil, Zimbabwe is re-emerging as
experiences is what sets Botswana apart. terrorist antics of al-Shabaab, now, in one of the great safari destinations of
In addition to game viewing, the bird life many ways, is the perfect time to go, Africa. Its also one of the best value:
is exceptional. This is perhaps the most with fewer tourists and lodges offering holidays in Zimbabwe can cost about
exclusive country (particularly in terms special rates. Kenyas safari areas are two-thirds less than in neighbouring
of price) in the region. not under threat and the coastal resorts Botswana and Zambia. Zim boasts some
of Mombasa, Kilifi, Watamu and Diani of the best-trained guides in Africa.
WHEN The dry season, from April to are also free from FCO restrictions.
October, is the best time to visit, which WHEN Go between May and October (the
conveniently coincides with the Delta WHEN Kenya can be visited year round, Falls, however, are more impressive in
in full flood (it takes four months or so though there are heavy rains in April May and June, following the rains).
for the wet season rains of the Angola and May. August and September is peak
Highlands to drain into the Delta). time for the wildebeest migration. WHATS NEW The new, multi-million-
dollar international airport at Victoria
WHATS NEW Following an almost total WHATS NEW Breaking with the traditional Falls is due for completion imminently.
rebuild, Belmond Eagle Island Lodge format of the East African safari camp, Meanwhile, Wilderne ss S afaris
(belmond.com) has just reopened in the and set on an escarpment overlooking (wilderness-safaris.com) has recently
Okavango Delta, with 12 luxurious tents the Mara, Angama (angama.com) is a opened Linkwasha, a nine-tented
and a private island setting. sensational new lodge comprising two luxury camp in a private concession
camps each with 15 partially tented within Hwange National Park.
DONT MISS The Moremi Game Reserve suites and views to make you weep.
on the eastern side of the Delta DONT MISS White-water rafting down the
is Botswanas wildlife hot spot, DONT MISS The migration is Kenyas most Zambezi (mid-July to mid-Jan) followed
particularly for big cats. famous natural sight but, for excellent by afternoon tea at the Victoria Falls
rhino viewing, head to Laikipia where Hotel one of the great Zim institutions.
EDITORS TIP One of the most exhilarating there are eight private sanctuaries.
land experiences is an overnight trip to EDITORS TIP For the ultimate safari
the great Makgadikgadi salt pan, based EDITORS TIP At Lewa Wilderness experience, book the Matusadona Safari
out of Jacks Camp. Venture there and (lewawilderness.com), near the base of Cruiser on Lake Kariba. This lavish
back on quad bikes and sleep open air Mount Kenya, climb aboard Will Craigs houseboat can accommodate seven
under the stars. yellow biplane for one of the countrys guests and comes with two tenders and a
OLYWEN EVANS; MIKE MYERS
greatest scenic experiences. speedboat for game viewing and fishing.

HOW Abercrombie & Kent (01242-
547760; abercrombiekent.co.uk) HOW Africa Travel (020-7843 3587; HOW Red Savannah (01242-787800;
specialises in tailor-made holidays africatravel.com) specialises in holidays redsavannah.com) offers tailor-made
worldwide, including safaris. to eastern and southern Africa. holidays and villas worldwide.
78
AFRICA
HOUSE & GARDENS TRAVEL EDITOR PAMELA GOODMAN GOES IN SEARCH OF WHATS NEW IN SIX
OF AFRICAS TOP SAFARI DESTINATIONS AND GIVES HER ADVICE ON WHAT NOT TO MISS IN 2016
NAMIBIA ZAMBIA TANZANIA
WHERE South-west Africa, distinguished WHERE Landlocked country in southern WHERE East Africa, with a long stretch
by a long Atlantic desert coastline. Africa sharing a border with Zimbabwe of Indian Ocean coastline and islands.
at the iconic Victoria Falls.
WHY Predominantly malaria free, WHY Tanzania boasts vast areas of
Namibia is less about big game and WHY Zambia is all about adventure wilderness with spectacular open plains
more about outstanding natural beauty, forget endless vehicle-based game and game viewing. It is also home to
desolate wilderness and escapism. Forty viewing, this is a place where you get out Kilimanjaro Africas highest peak
per cent of land is in conservation (more and walk or take to a canoe. and the Ngorongoro Crater the worlds
than any other country in the world) largest intact caldera. With Zanzibar a
and 20 per cent of the worlds cheetahs WHEN The dry season from May to short hop by plane, it is one of the best
exist here. Its also a great destination October is the best time to visit. countries to combine safari and beach.
for self-drive adventures.
WHATS NEW Until the opening of its new WHEN A year-round destination except
WHEN April to October is the best time to camp in Liuwa Plains (planned for the during the heavy rains of April and May.
visit, with the shoulder season of May end of 2016), Norman Carr Safaris January and February are best times to
and June being the best value. Keen (normancarrsafaris.com) is operating see wildebeest calving in the southern
photographers should go in March and out of the refurbished Mutamanene Serengeti while the famous migration
April for clear skies and perfect light. Camp. This region is extremely remote river crossings take place from July to
with excellent birding, a strong wild September in the northern Serengeti.
WHATS NEW Namibia Exclusive dog population and the best wildebeest
(namibia-exclusive.com) is a group of migration after the Serengeti. WHATS NEW March 2016 sees the launch
four, new luxury lodges (two still under of Asilias (asiliaafrica.com) new lodge,
construction) located in remote rural DONT MISS Swimming in Devils Pool at The Highlands, on the remote slopes
locations throughout the country. Victoria Falls (only accessible from the of the Olmoti volcano, just north of
Zambian side), walking in the South the Ngorongoro Crater. With seven
DONT MISS Serra Cafema Camp Luangwa National Park and catching a luxurious domed tents, this stunning,
(wilderness-safaris.com) on the Kunene tiger fish in the Lower Zambezi. high-altitude camp will offer nature
River on the Namibian/Angolan border walks, game drives and hiking.
one of the most exclusive and remote EDITORS TIP A truly extraordinary
destinations in Africa. And Sossusvlei natural phenomenon is the fruit bat DONT MISS The Selous or Ruaha National
the highest sand dunes in the world. migration which takes place annually Park two incredible game reserves
in November and December in Kasanka that, although easily reached from Dar
EDITORS TIP Book a tailor-made mobile National Park. Up to ten million straw- es Salaam, are accessible to tourists
camping safari where tents are erected coloured fruit bats converge in a swarm only by light aircraft.
in a new location each night. Four nights, on the ripening fruit trees its Africas
incorporated within a larger Namibian largest mammal migration. EDITORS TIP Post-safari, keen divers
itinerary, is the perfect length. should go to Mafia Island, Zanzibar.
HOW Cazenove + Loyd (020-3553 8168;
HOW Journeys by Design (01273-623790; cazloyd.com) specialises in holidays HOW Aardvark Safaris (01980-849160;
journeysbydesign.com) arranges throughout Africa, as well as South aardvarksafaris.co.uk) specialises in
bespoke African luxury adventures. America, India and the Far East. holidays in central and southern Africa. D
79
JAPAN
Ski &
sushi
JAPANS NORTHERN ISLAND OF
HOKKAIDO IS KNOWN FOR ITS
GREAT POWDER SKIING, BUT IT
IS ALSO THE SOURCE OF SOME
OF THE COUNTRYS FINEST
SEAFOOD, SAYS KATE CROCKETT
M y hands are defrosting around a bowl of steaming

carbohydrate that smells like the most delicious thing Ill ever
eat. Im ravenous. The door swings open and in tramp four
KATE CROCKETT; JNTO; NISEKO PROMOTION BOARD
snowboarders in a swirl of powder snow; helmets and gloves

are pulled off and jackets hung, like mine, beside the old wood
stove in the centre of the room as they call out their lunch
orders. The elderly proprietor calls back. Its cosy in the hut
the perfect place to recharge after a busy mornings skiing.
But here its not tartiflette and fondue that fuel the afternoons
adventures but rice topped with salmon roe and thick, slippery
udon noodles with mountain vegetables.
80
JAPAN
3
Im in Boyo-so, the oldest hut on Mt Niseko-Annupuri,
an extinct volcano that is the hub of Niseko ski resort, on OF THE BEST
Japans northern island of Hokkaido. Hokkaido is Japans
second-largest island and the countrys frontier land; Mt
Niseko-Annupuri is covered by snow up to four months of 1
the year. Its a mild 2C outside but it is windy and snow is
still falling, topping up the many metres already beneath my NISEKO
skis. Ive spent the morning exploring with my guide Rupert, RESTAURANTS
a British instructor in his second season. Like me, he was
drawn to Niseko by its reputation as one of the worlds best
destinations for powder skiing but also its relaxed atmosphere 2
and cosmopolitan crowd. Hes also here for the food, hence
hes brought me to his favourite place on the piste. Weve both 1. Kamimura
ordered tempura soba, hearty buckwheat noodles topped with A longestablished favourite
a huge prawn in crisp, golden batter. Its simple but delicious. in Hirafu and its chefpatron -
Recharged, we speed towards the summit via the Hirafu Hokkaido native Yuichi Kamimura,
Gondola and a series of chairlifts. At the snow-park boundary, who once worked at Tetsuya in
Rupert wants to hike to the 1,308m summit to view the vast 3 Sydney - is still at the top of
backcountry playground that drops off the back of Mt Niseko- his game. Expect multicourse
Annupuri. We reach the fine dining on Hokkaidos best
ceremonial bell at 1,000m, produce, reflecting the minutiae
but get no further: the weather BACKCOUNTRY
AT THE SUMMIT, A VAST of the changing seasons. For a less
has closed in and the lifts have formal taste of Yuichis cuisine,
shut. In the whiteout, we head
PLAYGROUND DROPS OFF THE his second eatery, Bistro Kutchan
down, via the network of red BACK OF OF MT NISEKO-ANNUPURI Sakaba, in nearby Kutchan town
serves Japanesestyle tapas.
kamimuraniseko.com
2. Rakuichi Soba
This 12seat soba shop, located
in a rural setting in the Annupuri
resort area, is run by elderly
soba master Tatsuru Rai and his
wife and is a local institution.
The dough is prepared fresh
daily and the noodles are cut
and cooked as you watch from
the counter. Try the hot duck
noodles. The soba is so good that
there is always a queue from long
before opening (11.30am) until
the lunchtime dough runs out -
CLOCKWISE FROM usually well before the official
ABOVE Mt Yotei 3pm closing time. Rakuichi is
provides a dramatic also open for dinner from 5pm:
backdrop. The hot sweettalk your concierge into
spring at Ki Niseko, securing you a reservation.
discreetly hidden from 431 Niseko, Nisekocho, Abuta
view behind a snow gun; 008113658 3170
drift. Boyoso hut on
Mt NisekoAnnupuri 3. Sessa
is a charming spot Newly opened in 2015, this is the
and green runs, to Hirafu, the base for my stay. Were not for a hearty bowl of best-value lunch in Hirafu. The
alone; in fact, in Niseko it is usual to ski from around 8.30am noodles. OPPOSITE 7.50 set menu includes Wagyu
until 2pm and then retire for a restorative soak in a hot spring. Niseko is one of beef sukiyaki, Hokkaido scallops
Hirafu is one of the four main resorts alongside Niseko Japans most popular and other seasonal seafood
Village, Niseko Annupuri and Hanazono that cluster at the resorts for offpiste (including puffer fish when we
base of Mt Niseko-Annupuri. It is also the largest and liveliest, skiing. The lounge at were there) - and thats just the
and the location of most of Nisekos finest eateries one of > Moku no Sho ryokan appetiser! sessa.boo.jp
81
JAPAN
which, An Dining, just happens to be within the hotel in which Skiing in Niseko
I am staying, the smart Ki Niseko, which is entering its second WHAT TO EXPECT
season. An Dining is the domain of Shinichi Maeda, a young QUIETER SLOPES than the Alps.
Hokkaido chef with a passion for local produce. That evening E N G L I S H L A N G UAG E ski
I sample his signature multi-course menu, which is a roster of lessons and guiding, with mostly
the great and the good of Hokkaidos winter delicacies, such Australian, New Zealand and
as scallops, surf clams, sea urchin and king snow crab. By the British instructors.
time the rare black Wagyu beef reared on the wild Shiratoko HELMETS - most people wear one.
peninsula in Eastern Hokkaido is served, Im full, and more FROM TOP Fresh NEW INFRASTRUCTURE, such
than impressed by the islands abundance. seafood from chef as the Hirafu Gondola and heated
The produce here is good enough already so you do not need Maeda at Ki Niseko. pavements in the main town, but
to do too much, smiles Shinichi, as he pours a local sake hes The hotel exterior. still lots of old hooded chairlifts.
just discovered. Our winter seafood is exceptional but its also View from the piste CHALET RENTAL a third of the
great in summer. Thats reason enough to return. D price of Europe, with lift passes
approximately half the price.
FREE WIFI on board all resort
shuttle buses, which are free to
use with a lift pass.
APRESSKI CULTURE that
revolves around restaurants and
bars in the evening rather than en
route down from the mountain.
ACTIVITIES FOR NONSKIERS
AND CHILDREN, including snow
shoeing, sledging, snowtubing,
snowmobiling (including mini
ones for children). Plenty for
adrenaline seekers, such as
heliskiing, cat skiing (taking a
snow tractor/piste basher to less
accessible areas of the mountain)
and even a snowkite school.
ESSENTIALS
WHEN TO GO Nisekos ski season
lasts from late November until the first
week in May, with Chinese New Year by far the busiest time. Visit in February and
March when there are fewer crowds, more sunny days and the snow is still falling.
HOW Stay in Westernstyle, skiin, skiout hotel Ki Niseko kiniseko.com
which opened last season a snowballs throw from the Hirafu Gondola. Doubles
from 200. Or go native and stay at Moku no Sho (mokunosho.com/en),
a stunning contemporary Japanese inn, a 10minute drive from the Annupuri
resort area. Doubles from 121. Niseko is a onehour, 45minute drive from
New Chitose airport, south of Sapporo. Cathay Pacific (cathaypacific.co.uk)
flies five times a week between London and Sapporo via Hong Kong. For more
information on travel to Japan, visit seejapan.co.uk.
fresh from hokkaido to tokyo

Even if you are not venturing north, Hokkaidos seafood makes up a large share of that sold at Tokyos
remarkable Tsukiji market, which is earmarked for closure in November 2016 (for a move to new premises)
and is well worth a visit before its gone forever. Sample a famous Tsukiji sushi breakfast in one of the markets
best sushi shops with a guide from Inside Japan (insidejapantours.com ) who will whisk you in through the
JNTO; NISEKO PROMOTION BOARD
back door (to avoid the two-hour queue out the front) for a feast of the freshest tuna, squid, shellfish and
prawn that you will ever taste. If a seafood breakfast is not your thing, the Andaz Tavern inside the nearby
Andaz Tokyo hotel (tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com) features Hokkaido specialities such as scallop, hairy crab, sea
urchin, monk fish and wild venison on its hearty pub-style menu of comfort dishes, perfect for winter.
82
DIARY
Travel classical and contemporary
MAR
music concerts, outdoor events
and activities to if youre in
luck the backdrop of the
calendar
PLAN YOUR GLOBAL ADVENTURES IN 2016 WITH
aurora borealis. Until February
7. Wexas Travel (wexas.com)
offers a five-day trip including
the festival and a cruise. From
875pp, with flights.
OUR 12-MONTH GUIDE TO NOTEWORTHY EVENTS,
FESTIVALS AND CULTURAL MOMENTS
21 JAIPUR LITERATURE
FEB
FESTIVAL, INDIA
A key date in any book-lovers 24
JAN
diary, Jaipur Literature Festival

(jaipurliteraturefestival.org) has
grown from being a small, little- 20 NATIONAL CHERRY
known Indian affair to a globally BLOSSOM FESTIVAL,
important event. It is the largest WASHINGTON DC, USA
free literary festival in the world Celebrating Japans 1912 gift
and is held at the picturesque of 3,000 cherry blossom
Diggi Palace Hotel in Jaipur. trees, this free public festival
Speakers confirmed for 2016 (nationalcherryblossomfestival.
include Margaret Atwood, Blake 29 org) takes place under the blooms
Morrison, Colin Thubron and the around the Tidal Basin until April
29 2015 Man Booker Prize winner 17. Stay in view of the celebrations
Marlon James. Runs until 25. at Mandarin Oriental Washington
Greaves India (greavesindia.com) 29 THE SHIP IN THE ICE, DC (mandarinoriental.com/
1 CAPABILITY BROWN offers a five-night festival tour SPITSBERGEN, NORWAY washington), from 355, B&B.
FESTIVAL, UK staying at the Diggi Palace with Trapped in a frozen fjord by the
Special events to mark 300 years delegates entry, confirmed Arctic sea ice, 60km from 24 ART BASEL,
since the birth of eighteenth- seating, flights and transfers, Longyearbyen on the island of HONG KONG
century landscaper Capability from 1,425pp. Spitsbergen, the worlds only The newest of the Basels
Brown (capabilitybrown.org) take ice-bound hotel welcomes (artbasel.com/en/hong-kong)
place up and down the country, 27 QATAR MASTERS, guests for its short annual sticks to its winning format
with locations ranging from urban DOHA, QATAR season, which lasts until of combining priceless pieces
landscapes to secret gardens not Taking place on the Peter approximately May 2. Natural with works from emerging
usually open to the public. An Harradine-designed course at World Safaris (naturalworld artists. Runs until 26. Stay at
exhibition on Browns best-known Doha Golf Club, this event safaris.com) offers a four-night Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
creation opens at Blenheim (qatar-masters.com), which takes snowmobiling trip with a stay on (mandarinoriental.com/hong
Palace on February 13. place at the beginning of each board the Ship in the Ice from kong). Doubles from 360, B&B.
year as part of the European 2,500pp, with flights. Fair packages to be announced.
15 ART DECO WEEKEND, Tour, is the pearl in Qatars
MIAMI, USA annual sporting calendar. Runs 19 CUT IN THE COUNTRY, 24 OPERA ON SYDNEY
The Art Deco gems along Ocean until 30. Your Golf Travel (your BERKSHIRE, UK HARBOUR, AUSTRALIA
Drive form the backdrop for this golftravel.com) offers a five-night Chef Wolfgang Puck packs up his Turandot, Puccinis exotic fantasy
free festival of street performance stay at the W Doha from January kitchen at 45 Park Lane, London of death-marked love, comes
and music (artdecoweekend.com), 26 with flights and tickets to the and decamps to the country to what must be the worlds
which started as a movement to Qatar Masters, from 1,549pp. for a season at Restaurant most magical setting for an
ENCOUNTERS BY REBECCA BAUMAN/ART BASEL
preserve Miamis architecture Coworth Park at Coworth Park opera stage, floating on Sydney
from the 1920s 1940s. Runs until hotel in Berkshire. The CUT in Harbour (opera.org.au). Runs
17. Mr & Mrs Smith (mrandmrs 29 NORTHERN LIGHTS the Country pop-up runs until until April 24. Turquoise Holidays
smith.com) offers two nights in a FESTIVAL, TROMS, NORWAY March 6. Stay at Coworth Park (turquoiseholidays.co.uk) offers
double room at Art Deco hotel The Arctic city of Troms (dorchestercollection.com) from a two-week holiday to Australia
The Tides with its distinct port- comes alive for this festival 395 per double room, B&B. An from 2,995pp, including four
hole windows during the festival (nordlysfestivalen.no/en), with F&B credit will be included to be nights in Sydney with premium
weekend, from 776, room only. used in the pop-up restaurant. opera seats, flights and car hire.
84
DIARY
23 HISTORIC GARDEN golden age of motor racing. 24 VERONA OPERA, ITALY

WEEK, VIRGINIA, USA Watch skilled drivers tackle the Verona Opera (arena-verona.
Billed as Americas largest famous street circuit the cars com) opens for its 2016 season.
APR
open house, more than 250 may not be as fast as those in By day there are plenty of
of Virginias most beautiful the main race, but they win the cultural sites to take in such as
gardens, homes and historic beauty contest, hands down. the Roman Arena, one of the
landmarks throw open their Until 15. Stay at The Fairmont best preserved amphitheatres
gates for visitors as part of this Monte-Carlo (fairmont.com/ in the world built in 100AD, and
eight-day celebration of Virginia monte-carlo), which has views by night the air fills with glorious
in spring (vagardenweek.org). overlooking the famous hairpin. arias. Until August 28. Bellini
Runs until 30. America As You Doubles from 759 per night. Travel (bellinitravel.com) offers a
Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com) three-night stay at Grand Hotel
offers an 11-night Vibrant Cities, 14 UNDISCOVERED Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda
Secret Gardens fly-drive holiday, TREASURES TOUR, JAPAN with tickets to the opera and
with multiple stops in Virginia, Art historian and author of The private transfers from 1,985pp.
23 from 1,105pp including filghts, Art Lovers Guide to Japanese
car hire and accommodation. Museums Sophie Richard leads 27 STARMUS FESTIVAL,
a unique art tour of Japan, the TENERIFE
5 EXHIBITIONISM, star of which is a visit to the This science, astronomy and
SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON Benesse Art Site on Naoshima rock music festival (starmus.
The Rolling Stones will stage in the Seto Inland Sea, an art com) is held in honour of Sir
MAY
their first ever major exhibition museum and conceptual space. Stephen Hawking. Tenerife is
(stonesexhibitionism.com), 13 Runs until 24. The 10-night one of the best places on earth
taking over the Saatchi Gallery journey, with Cazenove + Loyd to stargaze, and last year saw
with more than 500 unseen (cazloyd.com) in partnership the arrival of new telescopes at
artefacts from the bands with Art Fund, is for 12 people the famous Teide Observatory.
personal collections, including and costs from 9,915pp. Musician and astronomer Brian
rare sound archives . Runs May is among the speakers,
until September 4. Stay while plus Sir Stephen Hawking
in London in one of the newly himself. Runs until July 2.
refurbished rooms at The Elegant Resorts (elegantresorts.
Portobello Hotel (curioushotels. co.uk) offers seven nights
JUN
com), patronised by rock n roll at the Gran Hotel

royalty including The Rolling Bahia Del Duque,
Stones. Doubles from 255, B&B. 14 close to the main
events, from
23 ANTIGUA SAILING
ACM/ALESI; COURTESY OF THE ROLLING STONES ARCHIVE; TOURISM TENERIFE; YELLOW PUMPKIN BY YAYOI KUSAMA; VISITTHEUSA.COM
1,120pp,
WEEK, ANTIGUA 4 NEW DIRECT FLIGHTS TO including flights.
This week-long regatta COSTA RICA FROM UK
(sailingweek.com) attracts an Home to five per cent of the 23
international fleet of yachts, with globes entire biodiversity, Costa 29 LITERARY
many sailing from the USA and Rica becomes more accessible FESTIVAL OF PARATY,
across the Atlantic from Europe than ever as British Airways BRAZIL
to take part. The racing, parties launches direct, weekly flights 27 This highbrow literary festival
and fun runs until 29. The Inn at from Gatwick. Local specialist (flip.org.br) was set up by
English Harbour, Antigua, offers Horizontes (horizontes.com) publisher Liz Calder, who wanted
front-row views of the racing offers a 14-day Tropical Luxury 6 ROSE FESTIVAL, DEVON to create a Hay-on-Wye-style
action from the hotel and the tour featuring rainforests, RHS Garden Rosemoor in Great event in Brazil. A programme
comfort of its own yacht. Carrier volcanoes and pristine coast, Torrington, Devon (rhs.org.uk) featuring South Americas top
(carrier.co.uk) offers seven nights from 3,233pp, with BA flights. hosts its first annual Rose intellectuals and writers is
from 2,520pp, with flights. Festival in 2016, with swathes complemented by European and
13 GRAND PRIX DE of scented blooms, workshops, North American voices. Past
MONACO HISTORIQUE, walks and unusual cultivars on speakers have included Julian
MONTE CARLO sale. Runs until July 10. Stay at Barnes, David Hare and Colm
The event, which Hotel Endsleigh (hotelendsleigh. Tibn. Runs until July 3. Steppes
celebrates its tenth com), an hour away, set in 100 Travel (steppestravel.co.uk)
anniversary, features acres of woodland, follies and offers a nine-day trip including
vintage cars from the grottos created by Humphry Rio and the festival in Paraty
Repton. Doubles from 240, B&B. from 1,675pp, including flights.>
85
DIARY
Travel calendar and Westport, with 40 guests

accommodated in elegant
AUG
30 MASTERPIECE, 2 ELEVEN ARCHES AT en-suite cabins, the designs of
LONDON, UK AUCKLAND CASTLE, which are inspired by Dublins
One of the summers most COUNTY DURHAM, UK classic Georgian architecture.
glamorous events, Masterpiece Historic Auckland Castle in The four-night Legends and
(masterpiecefair.com) is held at County Durham becomes the Loughs journey costs from
the Royal Hospital Chelsea and north of Englands newest arts 4,010pp (belmond.com).
features art, antiques and design. venue with the opening of a
Until July 6. Stay at hotel partner spectacular live-action night 11GLYNDEBOURNE
The Connaught (the-connaught. show from production company OPERA, SUSSEX, UK
co.uk). Doubles from 475, B&B. Eleven Arches (elevenarches. Summer isnt complete without
Fair packages to be announced. org). Kynren is an epic story a visit to glorious Glyndebourne
spanning 2,000 years of British (glyndebourne.com), the Sussex
history, with an equally epic scale 11 opera house. To mark the 400th
(a 7.5-acre stage) and epic cast anniversary of Shakespeares
and crew (1,000 professionally death, the company is reviving
trained volunteers). Runs for 14 1SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL, Peter Halls acclaimed 1981
JUL
shows until September 17. Stay HELSINGR, DENMARK production of Benjamin Brittens
nearby at Seaham Hall (seaham- Kronborg Castle, a Unesco World A Midsummer Nights Dream.
hall.co.uk) Doubles 225, B&B. Heritage Site on the North Runs until 28. Stay at Gravetye
Sealand coast, has been the Manor in East Grinstead
5 RHS HAMPTON COURT setting for this annual festival (gravetyemanor.co.uk), which
PALACE FLOWER SHOW, (hamletscenen.dk) since 1816. has gardens designed by
SURREY, UK Marking 400 years since William Robinson and a Michelin-
The worlds largest flower show Shakespeares death in 2016, star restaurant. Doubles from
(rhs.org.uk) with its enviable Hamlets Castle hosts three 470, for dinner, B&B.
backdrop is an eclectic mix of weeks of theatre, film and music.
gardens and floral displays by Runs until 21. Stay at beachside
5 world-class growers and Marienlyst Hotel (marienlyst.dk).
designers. New categories for Doubles from 126, B&B.
SEP
2016 include Water Gardens,
2 IL PALIO, SIENA, ITALY City Gardens and Floral 5 RIO 2016 OLYMPICS ,
This biannual bareback horse Meadows & Market Gardens. BRAZIL
race in the medieval Piazza del Riding on last years success, Brace yourselves, the 2016
Campo in the heart of Siena Brand USA will be exhibiting a Olympics in Rio de Janeiro in
is an unforgettable spectacle. taste of the USA. Runs until 10. Brazil (rio2016.com/en) promises
Witness the passion and emotion Stay at Great Fosters (great to deliver a sporting spectacle
from a seat overlooking the fosters.co.uk) in Surrey, which like no other, with 42 different
Piazza. Also on August 16. Red has its own gorgeous gardens. sports being contested including
Savannah (redsavannah.com) Doubles from 180, B&B. two new additions, golf and
offers a three-night stay at Castel rugby. Runs until 21. Miraviva
Monastero in Chianti, within easy 10 LE SEMAINE DES GRAND (miravivatravel.com) offers a 17
reach of Siena, from 965pp, CRUS, BURGUNDY, FRANCE three-week itinerary including
B&B, including flights and car Its the ultimate journey for nine nights in a private
hire. They can also arrange oenophiles: cruising through apartment in Rio for the Games, a 10 YOU SAY YOU WANT
balcony seats, from350pp. Burgundy sampling all 33 Grand visit to Iguau Falls, a five-night A REVOLUTION, V&A,
Cru wines. Winemakers from Amazon yacht charter, finishing LONDON, UK
BETHANY CLARKE; MIKE HOBAN/THE HOBAN GRAVETT ARCHIVE
domaines including Maison at a spa resort on the Alagoas The V&As (vam.ac.uk) major
Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Coast or in Bahia in the northeast. autumn exhibition examines how
Ponsot will host private tastings From 7,260pp, including flights. ideals and aspirations of the late
plus gourmet dinner parties in 1960s were expressed through
10 their cellars and on board the 9 INAUGURAL JOURNEY music, fashion, film and design.
luxury barge Amaryllis. The OF THE GRAND HIBERNIAN, Runs until February 26, 2017.
six-night cruise from St IRELAND Stay nearby at The Kensington,
Lger to Dijon is for eight The first luxury touring train part of the Doyle Collection
people. From 7,250pp, in Ireland departs Dublin for (doylecollection.com). Doubles
with transfers from its inaugural journey to Cork, from 235, B&B. Exhibition
Paris (belmond.com). Killarney, Limerick, Galway packages to be announced.
86
DIARY
17 LONDON DESIGN events, discussions and 9 MOSAICS OF RAVENNA

FESTIVAL, UK debates welcoming writers AND VENICE ART TOUR
DEC
With a reputation as one of the and thinkers as diverse as Eminent historian John Julius
largest and most innovative Jonathan Franzen, Salman Norwich leads a tour exploring
design events in the world, Rushdie, Nick Clegg, Max the art of the mosaic, from
London Design Festival Hastings and Nigella Lawson. the exquisite churches of
(londondesignfestival.com) Runs until 16. Stay at The Ravenna to St Marks Basilica
incorporates more than 350 Montpellier Chapter (the and the cathedral on the
events and installations across montpellierchapterhotel.com), island of Torcello, Venice. The
the city from the V&A to doubles from 225, B&B; or four-night tour with Fine Art
Somerset House. Runs until 25. out of town at Cowley Manor Travel (finearttravel.co.uk)
Stay at Ham Yard Hotel in Soho (cowleymanor.com), doubles runs until 15 with a maximum
(firmdalehotels.com), which from 295, B&B. of 25 guests. From 3,000pp,
hosts festival-related events. excluding flights.
Doubles from 420, B&B.
23 GALWAY 18 MARGARET RIVER

NOV
INTERNATIONAL OYSTER GOURMET ESCAPE, MAASAI OLYMPICS 2016,

FESTIVAL, IRELAND WESTERN AUSTRALIA KENYA
Now in its sixty-first year, this This three-day food and wine Rio isnt the only place hosting
celebration of all things oyster festival (gourmetescape.com. competitive athletics in 2016:
(galwayoysterfestival.com) opens au), held among the vineyards this cultural sporting event
with a parade through Galways and on the beaches of Western (maasaiolympics.com) sees
medieval streets to the home of Australia, has established a name Masaai warriors compete
the citys seafood trade, the for itself in the five years it has in sprints, long-distance
Spanish Arch. The highlight been running. The event has running and javelin throwing,
is the World Oyster Opening attracted chefs including Heston as well as the less familiar
Championships. Runs until 26. Blumenthal, Rick Stein and sports, standing high jump
Stay 40 minutes from Galway at Marco Pierre White to champion and rungu (wooden baton)
Ashford Castle (ashfordcastle. 9 the regions abundant larder throwing. Journeys by Design
com). Doubles from 535, B&B. of artisan cheeses, seafood, (journeysbydesign.com) offers
truffles, craft beers and, of a seven-night Kenyan safari
1DAY OF THE DEAD, course, fine wines. Runs until journey including Amboseli
OAXACA, MEXICO November 20. Wexas Travel and the Mara, with a full day
This festival joyous and (wexas.com) offers a 12-day at the Maasai Olympics, from
OCT
carnivalesque rather than Margaret River & West Coast 6,018pp, including flights.
macabre celebrates those itinerary from 2,170pp, including
who have passed away in the flights, transfers, 10 days car UMBRIA WINTER JAZZ
form of elaborate costumes, hire, 11 nights accommodation FESTIVAL, ITALY
skull face-painting, skull-shaped and some meals and touring. Little sister to the more famous
sweets, and all manner of Tickets for the festival are Perugia Jazz Festival, this five-
skeleton effigies. It is celebrated available separately via the day event (umbriajazz.com), at
throughout Latin America, but Gourmet Escape website. the end of December and into
in Mexico it is unforgettably January 2017, is a unique way
BEVERLY JOUBERT; EMILIA ROMAGNA TOURISM; VISIT CHELTENHAM/NICK TURNER
colourful. It is accompanied to see in the new year in one

by funfairs, dances, visits to of Italys most beautiful hilltop
cemeteries and special foods and towns. It is held in the Umbrian
7 drinks prepared for the occasion. town of Orvieto, which is famed
Runs until 2. Rainbow Tours for its glorious cathedral and
(rainbowtours.co.uk) offers frescoes by Luca Signorelli.
a nine-day Day of the Dead Italian specialist Bellini Travel
7 CHELTENHAM Culture and History itinerary (bellinitravel.com) can arrange
LITERATURE FESTIVAL, UK in and around Oaxaca costing for rental of Villa Melissa in the
A must for literary fans, this from 2,795pp, including flights. hamlet of Fighine, 30 minutes
international festival The trip includes the chance to by car from Orvieto, for a five-
(cheltenhamfestivals.com) is a walk in the magnificent Comparsa night stay over new year, for
10-day marathon of 500-plus Parade on November 1 in a local 18 6,690. The villa sleeps eight and
village outside Oaxaca. includes a cook and maid. D
87
COMPETITION
Win
a luxury trip for two to
the Great Barrier Reef
THE LARGEST AND MOST SPECTACULAR REEF SYSTEM ON EARTH, THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
IS ON THE BUCKET LIST OF TRAVELLERS WORLDWIDE ITS TIME TO TICK IT OFF YOURS
ouse & Garden Destinations and Tourism (thalabeach.com.au), a deluxe eco resort set in the worlds
H and Events Queensland (queensland.com) have

teamed up to offer one lucky reader the chance
to win a luxury 11-night holiday for two people
to experience the world-famous Great Barrier
Reef and Unesco World Heritage-listed Daintree
Rainforest in Queensland, Australia.
The prize includes a four-night stay on Heron Island
oldest rainforest, overlooking the breathtaking Coral Sea.
For the final element of this unforgettable journey, the
winner will head further north to newly renovated Lizard
Island (lizardisland.com.au), a pocket of exclusive luxury
just a short boat ride away from The Cod Hole, one
of the worlds most famous dive sites. The ultra-luxury
resort is so exclusive that every guest can have their own
(heronisland.com), a natural coral cay and wildlife-lovers private beach for the day.
paradise just off the Gladstone coast.
This natural wonderland resort FOR A CHANCE TO WIN
is situated right on the reef and, THE PRIZE Answer the following question:
between October and March, is the Two economy return flights with Qantas In which state of Australia would you
breeding home to hundreds of turtles. to Queensland Four nights in a find the Great Barrier Reef ?
The winner will then travel up beachside suite at Heron Island a) New South Wales
to the Cairns & Great Barrier Reef Four nights in a deluxe bungalow at b) Victoria
region the only place in the world Thala Beach Nature Reserve Three nights c) Queensland
where the rainforest meets the reef luxury accommodation on Lizard Island Enter at: houseandgarden.co.uk
to stay at Thala Beach Nature Reserve Closes: January 11, 2016. Ts&Cs apply. See website for details.
ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES
Heron Island Thala Beach Nature Reserve Lizard Island
88
L A R E C H E R C H E D E L U V R E
Wonder in the desert. Every day.
Elegant, timeless, exceedingly rare.
Like this desert they call their own.
Khor Al Udaid, SE of Qatar www.qatartourism.gov.qa

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THE BE ST IN INTERNATIONAL DE SIGN AND DE C ORATION

CON TEN TS 10 From the editor 43

HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK JANUARY 2016

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FROM THE EDITOR

We can deliberate over choosing fabrics for days, weeks, even

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Order online at: mandarinstone.com Or visit one of our inspirational showrooms:

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JANUARY 2016 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK

Clockwise from top left: Hand-

Damask (sea green/antique white),

HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK JANUARY 2016

1 Hand-printed wallpaper, Cloud Garden (indigo), 52cm wide,

Spoonbill, 89 x 68 x 74cm, upholstered in Old Flax (watermelon),

HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK JANUARY 2016

JANUARY 2016 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK

1 Hand-screen-printed cotton quilt,

20 JANUARY 2016 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK

ALCANTARA FADINI BORGHI MARK ALEXANDER

Edited by DAVID NICHOLLS

to reintroduce to its collection. The

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Mayfair I Knightsbridge I Notting Hill I Chelsea I Clerkenwell

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The library of a luxury riverside penthouse in