ENRI-312

Constructing a Worm Compost Bin

Worm composting is a suitable alternative for many people who do not have the space or volume
of waste to support a larger composting system. Worm bins may be used in apartments, offices,
and homes; and can be placed either indoors or outdoors. Worm composting may be done in a
classroom setting; this introduces students to waste decomposition. The worms stay in the bin
and eat household scraps, and the bin gives off little odor. For those of you interested in
composting only food scraps, this is the ideal method. Following are instructions for
constructing a wooden worm bin, as well as basic instructions for adding the worms and compost
materials. Also included are basic instructions for making a worm composter using a plastic
container.

Materials
 One 4-x-8 foot sheet of 1/2-inch exterior
plywood*
 One 12-foot length of 2x4 lumber*
 One 16-foot length of 2x4 lumber*
 16d galvanized nails (1/2 pound)
 6d galvanized nails (2 pounds)
 Two galvanized door hinges
 Plastic sheets for placing under and over
the bin(optional)
 One pound of red worms for every 1/2
pound of food wastes produced per day
 Bedding for worms: peat moss; brown
leaves; moistened, shredded newspaper; or
moistened, shredded cardboard

Figure 1 – Worm Composter Tools

 Tape measure
 Hammer
 Sawhorse
 Screwdriver
 Skill saw or hand saw
 Long straight-edge or chalk snap line
 Drill with 1/2-inch bit
 Eye and ear protection
 Work gloves
Building a Wooden Worm Composter

1. Measure and cut the plywood, so that 7. To complete the bin, nail the 16-x-24
you have one 24-x-42 inch top, one 24- inch pieces of plywood onto the base
x-42 inch base, two 16-x-24 inch ends, and sides at each end.
and two 16-x-42 inch sides.
8. To reinforce the bin, stagger nails at
2. Cut the 12-foot length of 2x4 lumber least every 3 inches wherever plywood
into five pieces: two 39-inch pieces, and 2x4's meet.
two 23-inch pieces, and one 20-inch
piece. 9. Drill twelve 1/2-inch holes through the
plywood bottom of the bin for drainage.
3. Lay the five pieces on edge on a flat
surface to form a rectangle, with the 10. To build lid frame, cut 12-foot piece
long pieces on the inside and the 20-inch (left from 16-foot length) of 2x4 lumber
length centered parallel to the ends. into two 45-inch pieces and two 20-inch
Nail the pieces together with two 16d pieces. Lay the pieces flat, forming a
nails at each joint. rectangle with the short pieces inside.

4. Nail the 24-x-42 inch piece of plywood 11. Lay the 24-x-42 inch piece of plywood
onto the frame with 6d nails every 3 on top of the lid frame so that the
inches. plywood is 1 1/2 inches inside all the
edges of the frame. Nail the plywood
5. Cut four 1-foot lengths from the 16-foot onto the frame with 6d nails.
length of 2x4 lumber. (Save the
remaining 12-foot piece.) Take the two 12. Attach the hinges to the inside of the
16-x-42 inch pieces of plywood and back of the bin at each end (on the 2x4),
place a 1-foot length flat against each and the corresponding underside of the
short end and flush with the top and side back edge, of the lid frame, so that the
edges. Nail the 2x4's in place using 6d lid stands upright when opened.
nails.
13. The unfinished bin should last for at
6. Set the plywood sides up against the least five years. Using pressure-treated
base frame so that the bottom edges of lumber* could further extend the life of
the 2x4's rest on top of the base frame the bin. However, the use of chemically
and the bottom edges of the plywood treated wood for gardening and
sides overlap the base frame. Nail the composting is controversial. Please see
plywood sides to the base frame using note at end of publication.
6d nails.
14. Your bin is now ready to add worms,
bedding, and food scraps.
 Making a Plastic Worm Composter

A worm composter can be easily and inexpensively made using a plastic container. Surface area
is important for good decomposition of your food scraps. Therefore, a wide and shallow
container is better than a tall, narrow container. Your container should not be greater than 12-16
inches in depth, but should be at least 6 inches deep. Lids can be anything from a simple sheet of
light-weight plastic to a hinged or snap-on top. If you do not have a suitable container, these
types of bins are readily available in retail outlets.

To set up your composter:

1. Wash your container thoroughly with warm, soapy water.

2. Drill ventilation holes in the sides and bottom of the container. The holes should not be
more than 1/2 inch in diameter. If you are using a snap-on or hinged lid, you may drill
holes in the lid to provide extra ventilation and cut down on odors.

3. Add your bedding, worms and food scraps.

Guidelines for Setting-Up and Maintaining Your Worm Composter

Once you have completed either your wooden or plastic composter, you are now ready to begin
the composting process. Following are some guidelines and tips for successful worm
composting.

Placing Your Bin newspaper, shredded cardboard, brown

The bin can be placed anywhere where the leaves and machine shredded computer
temperature remains between 50°F and paper. To prepare your bedding, first weigh
80°F. Garages, basements and kitchens are your dry material. Multiply the dry weight
all possibilities. The bin may be placed by three to determine the weight of water
outdoors in warm weather, but not hot needed to achieve 75% moisture. Moisten
weather. Select a location that will be your bedding by placing one-half of the
convenient for you to add your wastes. To material in a large bucket and then adding
aid in ventilation, the bin can be slightly one-half of the water. Approximately two
elevated. Placing the bin on bricks or blocks cups of garden soil can be added. The soil
would accomplish this task. Placing a assists the worms in digesting materials.
plastic sheet under the bin is wise, especially Add the remaining bedding material, and
if used indoors. follow with remaining water. Mix well. Be
sure that all bedding is dampened. Add
Preparing Your Bedding bedding to a depth between 4 and 8 inches,
Various types of materials are suitable as depending upon the size of your container.
bedding. These include peat moss, shredded
Adding Your Worms may add fresh bedding to the top. If odor
Red worms are the appropriate type to use in becomes a problem, check for adequate
composting. (Sources of worms are ventilation. In addition, odor and/or fruit
included at the end of this publication.) One flies may be an indication that too much
pound of red worms can eat 3 1/2 pounds of waste has been added to the system. To
food waste per week. Before purchasing solve this problem, remove a portion of the
worms, estimate the amount of food scraps bedding and waste, and replace with fresh
you plan to compost. Keep in mind that bedding. Allow 1 to 2 days before adding
baked goods, meat waste and bones are not waste again. Do not add any inorganic or
suitable for composting. Fruit and vegetable potentially hazardous materials, such as
scraps, egg shells, coffee grounds (with chemicals, glass, metal or plastic.
filters), and tea bags are suitable for your
worm bin. Red worms are better suited for Maintaining Your Worm Bin
indoor composting and should be purchased Adequate moisture is important to keep the
through a horticultural or garden supply worms active, healthy, and contained.
company. To add your worms, place on top Check the moisture level regularly. Bedding
of the bedding. Leave the lid off the bin for should be damp, but not soggy. If bedding
a short time, so that the worms will work is too wet, add additional dry bedding. If
their way down through the bedding. bedding is dry, sprinkle with water. Every 3
to 6 months, move the compost to one side
Adding Your Waste of the bin, and add new bedding to the
To add waste, dig a small hole in the empty half. Begin adding wastes to the new
bedding and add scraps. Cover the hole bedding only. The worms will move to the
with bedding. Waste may also be placed in new bedding within one month. The "old"
a shallow trench or sprinkled across the top. bedding (now finished compost) can be
Waste does not have to be added on a daily harvested for use. New bedding should be
basis, but should be added at least every 2 to added in its place.
3 days. If fruit flies become a problem, you
 Sources of worms:
 Flowerfield Enterprises at www.wormwoman.com
 Worm’s Way at www.wormsway.com

*Regarding use of wood products in gardening and composting projects: The University of Minnesota
conducted a study on a raised bed garden made from Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) pressure-
treated wood. Results showed that the vegetables grown can accumulate arsenic from the CCA pressure-
treated wood, however, based on U.S. Public Health Standards, these vegetables would be safe for human
consumption. Alternative building materials are currently available. This information is provided so that
consumers are aware of the potential issues related to treated wood. If using scrap lumber or other used
materials make sure you know if the lumber/materials are treated and what they have been used for in the
past. Consumers should use their own judgment when constructing garden or compost units. For more
information on wood products contact the University of Kentucky Forestry Department at 859-257-7597
or [email protected].

Adapted with permission from Composting to Reduce the Waste Stream, published by NRAES, Cooperative Extension, 152
Riley-Robb Hall, Ithaca, New York 14853-5701. (607)255-7654. Adapted for use in Kentucky by Kim Henken and Jenny
Cocanougher, Extension Associates for Environmental and Natural Resource Issues with the University of Kentucky
Cooperative Extension Service.

Original 1996, Revised 12/2007 by Ashley Osborne, Extension Associate for Environmental and Natural Resource Issues.

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disability, or national origin.