Top 10 Berlin (DK Eyewitness) 2005 PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
BERLIN
10
10 Unmissable museums & galleries
10 Best restaurants in each area
10 Fantastic bars & clubs
10 Greatest modern buildings
10 Best hotels for every budget
10 Most fun places for children
10 Best areas to shop or browse
10 Great walks & itineraries
10 Loveliest parks, gardens & lakes
10 Insider tips for every visitor
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Berlin Area by Area
This Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide to Berlin divides the huge city
into seven easily managed central areas, plus the outlying areas of
Grunewald & Dahlem, the Southeast, and the nearby city of
Potsdam with its splendid palaces. The map below shows the loca-
tion and extent of the central areas. Each area is colour coded;
colour bands on the pages covering each area correspond to the
colours shown on this map. Almost every place mentioned in the
book has a map reference, which takes you
to the large maps on the front and back flaps.
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DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES
BERLIN
JRGEN SCHEUNEMANN
Contents
Left Berlin Reichstag Right A caf in the Hackesche Hfe
Contents
Berlins Top 10
Produced by DK Verlag, Munich
Brandenburger Tor &
Pariser Platz 8
Reproduced by Connecting People,
Starnberg & Colourscan, Singapore Reichstag 10
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom
Unter den Linden 12
First published in Great Britain in 2002
by Dorling Kindersley Limited Potsdamer Platz 16
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
A Penguin Company Pergamonmuseum 20
Reprinted with revisions 2006 Kurfrstendamm 24
Copyright 2002, 2006 Dorling
Kindersley Limited, London Kaiser-Wilhelm-
All rights reserved. No part of this publi-
Gedchtnis-Kirche 26
cation may be reproduced, stored in a Schloss Charlottenburg 28
retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, Kulturforum 32
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written Zoologischer Garten 36
permission of the copyright owner.
Historic Buildings 38
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library. Modern Buildings 40
ISBN-13: 978 1 4053 1228 8 Moments in History 42
ISBN-10: 1 4053 1228 9
Churches & Synagogues 44
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no
hierarchy of quality or popularity is Museums 46
implied. All 10 are, in the editors opinion, Art Galleries 48
of roughly equal merit.
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time
of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours,
prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this
book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website
address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front Corbis: Ludovic Maisant bl; Peter Wilson main
image; DK Images: Jurgen Scheunemann cl. Spine -- DK Images: Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz. Back --
DK Images: Amin Aktar tr; Dorota Jarymowicz tc, tl.
2
Contents
Left East Side Gallery on the Berlin Wall Right Faade of a house in Prenzlauer Berg
Famous Berliners 50 Tiergarten &

Kneipen (Pubs) 52 Federal District 96
Bars & Lounges 54 Kreuzberg &

Schneberg 102
Performing Arts Venues 56
Central Berlin:
Gay & Lesbian Attractions 58
Unter den Linden 112
Shops & Markets 60
Central Berlin:
Festivals & Fairs 62 Scheunenviertel 122
Childrens Attractions 64
Central Berlin:
Lakes, Rivers & Canals 66 Around Alexanderplatz 130
Sport & Fitness Venues 68 Prenzlauer Berg 138
Parks & Gardens 70 Berlins Southeast 144
Famous Hotels 72 Potsdam & Sanssouci 152
Best Places to Eat 74
Around Town Streetsmart

Charlottenburg & Practical Information 160
Spandau 78 Places to Stay 172
Grunewald & Dahlem 88 General Index 180
Left The Berlin memorial on Tauentzienstrae Right The park of Schloss Sanssouci
3
BERLINS
TOP 10
Berlin Highlights
67
BERLINS TOP 10
Brandenburger Tor &
Pariser Platz
89
Reichstag
1011
Unter den Linden
1215
Potsdamer Platz
1619
Pergamonmuseum
2023
Kurfrstendamm
2425
Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche
2627
Schloss
Charlottenburg
2831
Kulturforum
3235
Zoologischer Garten
3637
Top 10 of Everything
3875
Berlin Highlights
Berlin is Germanys liveliest city and one of the
most fascinating capitals in the world. Youll find Brandenburger Tor
no other place where art and culture, museums and Pariser Platz
Berlins Top 10
and theatres, entertainment and nightlife are The Brandenburger Tor,

Berlins most famous sight,
more diverse and exciting than on the banks of is located in Pariser Platz,
the Spree River. Once reunited, Berlin quickly where the famous Hotel
developed into a cosmopolitan city, and today Adlon and the embassies
breathe a modern, stylish
there is an air of energy and vibrancy about it. elegance (see pp89).
Reichstag
ST R O M ST R AS S E
No other building is
TEGE
a more potent symbol
E L STR .
Moabit
LE R W
of Germanys history
B E U SS
than the Reichstag
EG
T
A BI
MO
(below). Since its A LT -
Schlosspark
redesign by Sir Norman LE
.
VE
N G STR
TZ
OW
Foster in 1997 9, the 8
.
ST
S p re e
ST R
RA
SS
SSI
L IN
E
structure has become S PAN DAU E R
DAM M
LE
NK
AL
one of the most popu- OT
TO FRA TO
NA
K A I S E R -F R I
-SU ER
HR
lar sights in Berlin. ST
.
-AL
ST R
LEE R.
Hansaviertel
MAR C H
Visitors are attracted

E D R I C H-
UNI
D E S 17. J
by its vast egg-shaped STR ASSE
R AS S E
dome, affording fantas- M
B I S MAR C K ST
KAISERDAM
HA
tic views across the

RD
S T R A S SE
EN
BE
city (see pp1011). Charlottenburg RG
ST
RA
SS
E
0
KANTSTR A
SSE BREITSCHEID-
7 TPLATZ
A
KUR
F
ST R R ST E N
ASS
UE E -
LEW
6 ST N T Z
R A IE
IS H
SS N-
MM E
ENDA
AM
K L E IS
R ST T-
ST R
KU RF
URGER
.
LIETZENB SSE
S TRA
Unter den Linden Potsdamer

The magnificent, tree-lined Platz
boulevard (below) in the eastern The new heart
part of the city has always been of the old metro-
a central axis. Berlins most polis beats on
important historic buildings are Potsdamer Platz,
assembled here (see pp1215). where exciting
new structures,
such as the Sony
Center, have been
erected. With its
restaurants, film
museum, cinemas,
shops and musi-
cal theatre it is a
unique world of
entertainment
(see pp16 9).
6
Kurfrsten-
damm
Berlins much visited
strolling and shopping
Pergamon- avenue is the main
museum thoroughfare in the
Berlins Top 10
Berlins most impres- heart of the western
sive museum, a mecca city. New restaurants
for those interested in and stylish boutiques
culture, houses the have increased the
famous Pergamon hustle and bustle
Altar from ancient along this grand boule-
Greece (see pp2023). vard (see pp245).
1 miles 0 km 1
RO
Kaiser-Wilhelm-
SEN
Fritz-Schloss- Gedchtnis-Kirche
TH
E
ASS
AL E
Park TR
ORS
T The tower ruins of the
R ST
SSE
memorial church,
R AS S E
TRA
ENS
FRIEDRICH
ID
ALT- M
OA B IT IN VA L built to commemorate
ALT- M Spr
OA Kaiser Wilhelm I, still
T R.
B IT e
PA U LS
STR ASSE
.
e
5 CH
T- S
TR stand today as a silent
NE reminder of the horrors
BK
2 KA
RL -LI
E
of war (see pp26 7).
N LI N D EN
PARISER
U NT E R 3 D E BEBEL-
G
E
RE
EW
D E S 17. J
UNI 1 PLATZ PLATZ
B R ST R
STR ASSE HE
SP
E IT .
FRA NZ SISC
E N TL A ST
Mitte
AS S E
STRA SSE
Tiergarten GENDARMEN-
HO FJ GE
E B E RT ST R
MARKT
U N G SS
ST R AS S E
LE I PZ I G E R
RA LLE E
T R.
9 SE
4 POTSDAMER
PLATZ
AS
WIL
Diplomatenviertel
STR
SE OR
KO C H ST R AS
HEL
A N IE
ST
N ST
RE
R.
M ST
SE
E
ASS
MA
R AS
NN
ST R
R
ME
SE
ST
LI N D E N
RA
DA
SS
TS
E
PO
ST R .
BL
OW
Kreuzberg
STR
AS S
E
Schneberg
Schloss
Charlottenburg
Kulturforum The historic rooms of the
This complex of former Hohenzollern
museums, which summer residence invite
includes the famous visitors to experience a
Gemldegalerie (gallery slice of Prussian history,
of paintings), the Kunst- while the Baroque-style
gewerbemuseum (museum gardens, among the
of arts and crafts) and the Neue most beautiful in
Nationalgalerie, as well as concert halls such as Germany, are perfect for
the Philharmonie, guarantees a unique cultural strolling and sunbathing
experience for visitors to Berlin (see pp32 5). (see pp28 31).
Zoologischer
Garten
Germanys oldest zoo
and aquarium, in the
centre of the city, is the
largest animal park in the
world, boasting some
14,000 animals and over
1,800 different species
(see pp36 7).
Multi-lingual tourist information: www.berlin.de 7

or: www.btm.de
Brandenburger Tor & Pariser Platz
The best known of Berlins symbols, the Brandenburg Gate stands proudly in
the middle of Pariser Platz, asserting itself against the hyper-modern embassy
buildings that now surround it. Crowned by its triumphant Quadriga sculpture,
Berlins Top 10
the famous Gate has long been a focal point in Berlins history: rulers and
statesmen, military parades and demonstrations all have felt compelled
to march through the Brandenburger Tor.
Top 10 Sights
1 Brandenburger Tor
2 Quadriga
3 Hotel Adlon Berlin
4 DG Bank
5 Akademie der Knste
The Brandenburg Gate
seen from the east 6 French Embassy
7 Palais am Pariser Platz
One of the best
8 Eugen-Gutmann-Haus
spots for a coffee
break in Pariser Platz
9 Haus Liebermann
is Caf Meyerbeer, in 0 American Embassy
the Palais am Pariser
Platz. Dont miss its Brandenburger
great cake display. Tor
Since its restoration in Quadriga
A small exhibition, 2002, Berlins symbol is The sculpture, 6 m
housed in the north- now lit up more brightly (20 ft) high above the Gate,
ern side wing of the than ever before. Built was created in 1794 by
Brandenburger Tor, by Carl G Langhans in Johann Gottfried Schadow
tells the history of 178991 and modelled as a symbol of peace. As a
the Gate. on the temple porticos of model for the laurel-
ancient Athens, the Gate crowned goddess of peace
has, since the 19th cen- in the chariot, Schadow
tury, been the backdrop used his niece, who sub-
Pariser Platz for many events in the sequently became famous
Map F3, K3 citys turbulent history. throughout Berlin.
Tourist information, Hotel Adlon Berlin

Brandenburger Tor Completed in 1997 and
Map F3, K3 now favoured by visiting
10am6pm daily dignitaries, Berlins most
(030) 25 00 25 elegant hotel is a recon-
struction of the original
Hotel Adlon. This legendary
hotel, destroyed in World
War II, was host to the rich
and famous, including Greta
Garbo, Thomas Mann and
Charlie Chaplin (see p72).
DG Bank
This modern build-
ing, designed by the
American architect Frank
Owen Gehry, combines
the clean lines of Pruss-
ian architecture with
some daring elements.
8 www.berlin.de/tourismus/sehenswuerdigkeiten.en/00022.html
Akademie der Knste French Embassy
The new building, erected between 2000 In 19992001, an ele-
and 2003 by Gnter Behnisch and Manfred gant new building was
Sabatke, incorporates behind a vast expanse constructed by Christian
of windows the ruins of the old art academy, de Portzamparc, on the
which was destroyed in World War II. Today it site of the old embassy,
Berlins Top 10
is the home of the Academy of the Arts of which was destroyed in
the Province of Berlin-Brandenburg. World War II. Its colon-
nades and tall windows,
a homage to the former
French Embassy palace,
are particularly remark-
able and worth seeing.
Palais am
Pariser Platz
This complex by Bern-
hard Winking, a success-
ful modern interpretation
of Neo-Classical architec-
ture, is slightly hidden to
the north of the Branden-
burger Tor. It is worth
venturing inside where
you will find a caf, a
restaurant and a souvenir
shop around a pleasantly
shaded courtyard.
Eugen-Gut-
mann-Haus
With its clean lines,
the Dresdner Bank,
built in the round by
the Hamburg architects
team gmp in 19967,
recalls the style of the
New Sobriety move-
ment of the 1920s. In
front of the building,
which serves as the
Berlin headquarters
of the Dresdner Bank,
stands the famous
original street sign
for the Pariser Platz.
Haus Liebermann American

Josef Paul Kleihues erected Embassy
this building at the north end The last gap in the line of
of the Brandenburger Tor in buildings around Pariser
19968, faithfully recreating an Platz will be closed by
earlier building on the same 2006. A dispute between
site. The house is named after the embassy and the
the artist Max Liebermann Berlin Senate delayed
(right), who lived here. In building for several years:
1933, watching Nazi SA an entire street was to
troops march through the be moved to satisfy the
Gate, he famously said: USAs security require-
I cannot possibly eat as ments. But in the end,
much as I would want to the historical street
puke out. stayed where it was.
For more on historical architecture in Berlin see pp389 9

The Cupola
Reichstag The new Reichstag
Of all the buildings in Berlin, the Parliamentary cupola by Sir Norman
Foster affords breathtak-
Building is probably one of the most symbolic. ing views of Berlin. It is
The mighty structure, erected in 188494 by Paul open at the top to air the
Berlins Top 10
Wallot as the proud manifestation of the power of building and a touch of

irony here to allow for
the German Reich, was destroyed by arson in 1933 the dissemination of
and bombed during World War II. In 1996, the debates throughout the
artist Christo wrapped up the Reichstag and, in country. A ramp winds its
way up to the top.
19949, the British architect Sir Norman Foster
transformed it into one of the most modern parlia-
mentary buildings in the world. Today it is the offi-
cial seat of the Bundestag, the German parliament.
Top 10 Sights
1 The Cupola
2 Plenary Hall
3 Portico Dem deutschen
Volke
Main entrance of the 4 Restored Faade
Reichstag 5 Restaurant Kfer
If a meal at the Kfer 6 Installation Der
restaurant exceeds Bevlkerung
your budget, many 7 Memorial for Delegates to
stalls in the vicinity the Reichstag
of the Reichstag sell
8 German Flag
hot dogs.
9 Platz der Republik
Large numbers of 0 Memorial for Victims of the
visitors come to see Wall
the Reichstag cupola. Plenary Hall
It is best to avoid The newly designed
weekends or to start plenary hall is the seat of
queuing half an hour the Deutscher Bundes-
before the opening tag, the German parlia-
time. Tuesday is the ment, which has con-
quietest day. vened here again since
20 April 1999. Technologi-
cally, the hall is one of
the most advanced in the
Platz der Republik 1 world. The federal eagle
Map F3, K2 caused a row: considered
Open 8ammidnight too fat, it had to be
(030) 22 73 21 52 slimmed down.
www.bundestag.de
Portico Dem
deutschen Volke
The dedication To the
German People was
designed in 1916, against
the will of Wilhelm II.
10
Restored Faade Installation
Despite extensive Der Bevlkerung
renovations, small bullet Hans Haackes work of
holes from World War II art To the People is a
are still visible in the counterpoint to the porti-
buildings faade. co inscription opposite.
Berlins Top 10
Restaurant Kfer
This luxury restaurant next to the cupola on the
Reichstags roof offers an excellent view of the his-
torical centre of Unter den Linden. It is very popular
and you may well have to wait for a seat (see p101).
Memorial by
Dieter Appett
The German Flag Unveiled in 1992, the
The giant German memorial commemorates
flag was first raised on 97 Social Democratic and
the occasion of the offi- Communist Reichstag
cial national celebrations delegates who were
of German reunification murdered under the
on 3 October 1990. Third Reich.
Platz der Republik

Celebrations often
take place on the lawn in
The Reichstag
front of the Reichstag, Fire
most recently in 1996, When the Reichstag
when the building was went up in flames on
wrapped up by Christo. 27 February 1933, the
Dutch Communist van
der Lubbe was arrested
and charged with arson.
It is, however, much
more likely that the
Nazis had started the
fire themselves. Adolf
Hitler used the Reich-
stag fire as a pretext
to get the Enabling
Memorial for Victims of the Wall Act passed by parlia-
Opposite the southern side of the Reichstag, ment. This allowed him
a memorial recalls the Berlin Wall, which ran only to dispose of all his
a few steps away from this spot. One of the opponents, marking the
crosses commemorates Chris Gueffroy: shot in beginning of a 12-year
February 1989 when trying to escape, he was reign of terror.
one of more than 100 people who died at the Wall.
Berlin governmental buildings see pp401 11

Deutsches Histo-
Unter den Linden risches Museum
As long as the lime trees still blossom in Unter Germanys largest history
museum, reopened in
den Linden, Berlin will always be Berlin, Marlene 2003, provides an over-
Dietrich once sang about this magnificent avenue. view of more than 1,000
Berlins Top 10
Today the lime trees blossom more beautifully than years of German history.
Housed in the Zeughaus
ever in the historical centre of Berlin, because the the royal arsenal built in
old buildings along the street have been extensive- 1706 it is the oldest
ly restored and modern architecture has created and, architecturally, the
most interesting building
new highlights. The Linden originally a royal in the avenue Unter den
bridle-path linking the Stadtschloss (the kings Linden (see p14).
town residence) and Tiergarten became Berlins
most fashionable street in the 18th century, and
was synonymous with the city that was then the
capital of Prussia.
Top 10 Sights
1 Deutsches Historisches
Museum in the Zeughaus
2 Staatsoper
Unter den Linden
3 St Hedwigskathedrale
4 Humboldt-Universitt
Deutsches Historisches
5 Neue Wache
Museum in the Zeughaus
6 Kronprinzenpalais
The largest selection 7 Bebelplatz
of cakes in Berlin 8 Opernpalais
tempts visitors in the
9 Russian Embassy
Caf im Opernpalais.
In summer, you can
0 Frederick the Greats
enjoy them outside. Statue Staatsoper
Unter den Linden
Map F/G3, K3/4 The richly ornamented
Deutsches Histori- National Opera House is
sches Museum, Unter one of Germanys most
den Linden 2 10am attractive. Neo-Classical in
6pm daily (030) 20 30 style, it was built by von
40 www.dhm.de Knobelsdorff in 17413 as
Admission charge Europes first free-stand-
ing opera house, to plans
St Hedwigskathedrale, devised by Frederick the
Bebelplatz 10am5pm Great himself (see p56).
MonSat, 15pm Sun
(030) 203 48 10 St Hedwigs-
www.hedwigskathedrale
kathedrale.de Designed by Georg W von
Staatsoper, Unter den Knobelsdorff in 17402 and
Linden 7 Box Office modelled on the Pantheon
11am7pm MonFri, in Rome, this is the seat of
27pm Sun the Catholic archdiocese in
(030) 20 35 45 55 Berlin. Frederick the Great
www.staatsoper- commissioned the cathe-
berlin.de dral to appease Catholics in
Admission charge Berlin after conquering
Silesia (see p44).
12 Buses No. 100 and No. 200 run along the entire length of Unter
den Linden, with bus stops at nearly all the famous sights.
Humboldt-Universitt
Berlins oldest and most highly regard-
ed university was founded in 1890, on the
initiative of Wilhelm von Humboldt. Twenty-
nine Nobel Prize winners were educated
here, including Albert Einstein.
Berlins Top 10
Neue Wache
The central German memorial for all
victims of war was created in the years
18168 and designed by Karl Friedrich
Schinkel. An enlarged reproduction of the
moving Piet sculpture by Kthe Kollwitz
stands in the centre of the room.
Kronprinzenpalais Bebelplatz
The Neo-Classical Originally named
Palais, built in 17323 by Opernplatz, this wide,
Philipp Gerlach, was origi- open space was designed
nally a residence for the by Georg W von Knobels-
heirs to the Hohenzollern dorff as the focal point of
throne. After World War I his Forum Fridericianum.
it became an art muse- The elegant square was
um, and after 1948 the meant to introduce some
Opernpalais East German government of the splendour and
The charming build- housed state visitors glory of ancient Rome to
ing next to the Staats- there. Until 2003 it was the Prussian capital. In
oper, built in 17337, used for exhibitions of the May 1933, it became the
served as a palace for Deutsches Historisches scene of the infamous
the princesses. Museum opposite. Nazi book burning.
Russische Frederick
Botschaft the Greats Statue
The gigantic Russian One of Christian Daniel
Embassy, built in Stalinist Rauchs grandest sculp-
wedding-cake style, tures, this statue shows
was the first building to the Old Fritz (13.5 m/
be constructed in Unter 45 ft high) on horseback,
den Linden after World wearing a uniform and tri-
War II (see also p118). corn hat (see also p113).
For more on Unter den Linden see pp11221 13

Berlins Top 10
Old print roll from 1821 with views of the avenue Unter den Linden
Deutsches Historisches Museum

The Dying Warriors Soldiers Plundering
The 22 reliefs by Andreas a House
Schlter, displayed on the walls This painting by Sebastian Vrancx,
of the courtyard rather than in dating from around 1600, depicts
one of the museums exhibitions, a scene from the wars of religion
portray the horrors of war in an that tore the Netherlands apart
unusually imme- during the 16th century.
diate way.
Saddle
Martin Luther A valuable saddle, dating
Luthers portrait, by from the middle of the 15th
Lucas Cranach the Elder, is century, is decorated with
the focal point of exhibition elaborately carved plaques
rooms devoted to Martin made of ivory.
Luther and the Reformation.
The Berlin Wall
Europe and Asia An original section of
This group of Meissen Gloria Victis the Wall, together with the
porcelain figures reflects Statue banners of a peaceful pro-
the fascinating relationship unification demonstration in
between the two continents. 1989, commemorates the fall of
the Berlin Wall.
Steam Engine
A full-sized steam engine SS 20 Rocket
from the year 1847 marks the In the foyer, an original SS
entrance to the exhibition on the 20 rocket of the former Soviet
Industrial Revolution. Union reminds visitors today of
the perils of the Cold War years
Clothes from the Camps and the attempts to create a so-
Among the many exhibits called nuclear equilibrium.
illustrating the years under Nazi
rule is the jacket of a concentra-
tion camp inmate a chilling
reminder of the Third Reich.
Gloria Victis
The moving allegorical
figure of Gloria Victis, created
by the French sculptor Antonin
Merci, bears witness to the
death of a friend during the
final days of the Franco-Prussian
War of 18701. Portrait of Martin Luther in the Zeughaus
14 For more on Berlin museums see pp467

Top 10 Events
1 1573
Zeughaus Unter
Elector Johann Georg den Linden
has a bridle path built,
Berlins Top 10
linking the Stadtschloss Originally the royal arsenal,
and Tiergarten the Zeughaus was built in
2 1647 1706 in the Baroque style
During the Great Elec- according to plans by
tors reign, the road is Johann Arnold Nering. It
planted with Linden is an impressive structure,
(lime trees) with its main and side
3 From 1740 wings surrounding an Schlters Dying
Frederick the Great has historical central courtyard Warrior
grand buildings erected that is protected by a
4 1806 modern glass cupola roof. Especially
Napoleon marches memorable are Andreas Schlters figures
along Unter den Linden of 22 dying warriors, lined up along the
5 1820 arcades in the courtyard. They portray vividly
The road becomes a the horrors of war.
grand boulevard A cone-shaped glass annex, erected by
6 1928 the Chinese-born architect Ieoh Ming Pei in
Unter den Linden and 2001 for special exhibitions and temporary
Friedrichstrae epito- shows, stands behind the museum.
mize the world city The permanent exhibition in the main
7 1933 historical building includes a collection enti-
Troops celebrate .tled Images and Testimonials of German
Hitlers victory History. Highlighting the most important
8 1945 periods and events in the history of the
The avenue is razed to country, the displays include a surprising
the ground variety of exhibits dating back to the days of
9 194853 the early Medieval German Empire through
Revival of the street the period of the Reformation and the Thirty
0 October 1989 Years War as well as the wars of Liberation
Demonstrations lead to and the failed Revolution of 1848, right up
the fall of East German to the two World Wars and more recent
regime events of the 20th century.
The opening of the Reichstag in the White Salon of Berlin Schloss on 25 June 1888
Deutsches Historisches Museum: www.dhm.de 15

Potsdamer Platz
The heart of the new metropolis of Berlin beats on Potsdamer Platz. This
square, where Berliners and tourists alike now flock to cinemas, restaurants
and shops, was already a hub of urban life in the 1920s. After World War II, it
Berlins Top 10
became a desolate wasteland, but since the fall of the Berlin Wall, Potsdamer
Platz for a long time Europes largest building site has become a city
within the city, surrounded by imposing buildings erected in the last ten years,
and still being added to today.
Top 10 Sights
1 Sony Center
2 Filmmuseum Berlin
3 Caf Josty
4 Weinhaus Huth
5 Marlene-Dietrich-Platz
6 Potsdamer Platz Arkaden
7 Spielbank Berlin
Reconstruction of the first
traffic lights in Europe
8 Cinemaxx
9 DaimlerChrysler Quartier
Apart from visiting 0 Stella-Musical-Theater
the famous Caf
Josty, make sure Sony Center
you do not miss The Sony Center
Diekmann in the (right) is the most ambi-
Weinhaus Huth. tious, successful and
architecturally interesting
Potsdamer Platz building in the new Berlin.
Map F4, L2/3 The cupola structure,
designed by Helmut Jahn
Filmmuseum Berlin and opened in 2000, is
Potsdamer Str. 2 the European headquar-
10am6pm TueSun, ters of the Sony compa-
10am8pm Thu ny, and with its cinemas
(030) 300 90 30 and restaurants it is also
Admission charge a social magnet on
Potsdamer Platz.
Musical-Theater Berlin
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 Filmmuseum Caf Josty
8pm daily Berlin Caf Josty harkens
Admission charge This museum takes you back to its legendary
backstage in the Holly- predecessor, a regular
Spielbank Berlin wood and Babelsberg haunt for artists and intel-
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 film studios. Exhibits lectuals in the 19th century.
11:303am daily include Marlene Dietrichs The new Caf Josty is
(030) 25 59 90 costumes (see p18). partially housed in the his-
Admission charge toric Kaisersaal (Emperors
Hall) of the former Grand
Cinemaxx Hotel Esplanade.
Voxstr. 4
12:30pm1:30am daily Weinhaus Huth
(01805) 246 36 299 The only building on
Admission charge Potsdamer Platz to have
survived World War II, the
Weinhaus today accommo-
dates restaurants and the
fascinating art gallery of the
DaimlerChrysler company.
16 The best time to visit the Sony Center is in the early evening,
when the inside of the Plaza is lit up.
Marlene-Dietrich- BE
LLE
Platz VU
E ST
R.
This square in front of
the Stella-Musical- 3 ER
SE PO TSD AM
Theater is dedicated A M ER
S T R AS
1 PLATZ
P O TS D 2
to the great actress. R .
Berlins Top 10
ST
A brash Flower Balloon ER
8 TSDAM 9
(left), by the artist Jeff PO
Koons, enlivens the cen- AL
TE 4
E
7MARLENE-
AS S
6
ST R
tre of the square. DIETRICH
PLATZ
LINK
0 5
Locator Map
Potsdamer Platz
Arkaden
The arcades draw visitors
with over 130 shops,
exclusive boutiques and
popular restaurants on
three storeys. The lower
ground floor is a food
court, serving dishes
from around the world.
Spielbank Berlin
Berlins casino (below)
invites visitors to faites
vos jeux. Apart from
roulette, Black Jack is
also played, and an entire
floor is given over to
Cinemaxx gambling machines.
The Cinemaxx on Potsdamer Platz with its 17
screens is one of Berlins largest cinemas. The bigger
screens of the multiplex cinema show current Holly-
wood blockbusters, while the three smallest screens
are for viewings of
foreign-language films.
There is also a small bar
serving drinks.
DaimlerChrysler
Quartier Musical- Theater
The Berlin headquarters Berlin
of the famous car manu- Berlins largest show
facturers was designed stage, this venue has
by Hans Kollhoff and shown hits such as The
Renzo Piano. The software Hunchback of Notre
company debis (left), a Dame and The Blue Man
former offshoot of Daim- Group. The 1,300-seat
ler, is also based here. theatre is often sold out.
For more on the Filmmuseum see pp189 17

Berlins Top 10
Left S-Bahn sign Centre Caf Josty sign Right Arty bears on Potsdamer Platz
Exhibitions in the Filmmuseum

Marlene Post-War Cinema
Dietrich The story of films and film-
This exhibition of making in East and West Ger-
the film stars estate many, with props and costumes
includes costumes, of popular stars of post-war
touring luggage, German cinema such as Hanna
photographs, letters Schygulla, Romy Schneider,
and notes, posters Heinz Rhmann and Mario Adorf.
Film poster and film clips.
Artificial Worlds
Metropolis The tricks employed by
This film, directed by Fritz special effects studios, ranging
Lang in 1927, has an alarming from the first effects of the
vision of a future world as its 1930s to computer animation.
subject. Models and props from
the film are on display. Transatlantic
This exhibition of documents,
Caligari letters, keepsakes and souvenirs
The best known German retraces the careers of German
film of the 1920s, The Cabinet film stars in Hollywood.
of Dr Caligari (1920), was a
masterpiece of Expressionist Pioneers and Divas
filmmaking by Robert Wiene. The infant days of cinema
are featured here as well as
Leni Riefenstahl stars of the silent era such as
This exhibition reveals the Henny Porten and Asta Nielsen.
technical tricks used in the Nazi
propaganda film Olympia, made Exile
by Leni Riefenstahl in 19368. Documents relate the diffi-
culties encountered by German
Film and National filmmakers when making a new
Socialism start in the USA in 193345.
This exhibition features docu-
ments relating to the propaganda
uses of film, everyday cinema
and the industrys victims: some
film stars allowed themselves
to be used by the Nazis, others
refused to cooperate. The life
and work of the actor Kurt
Gerron, who was persecuted
and murdered, is documented
as an exemplary case. Faade of the Filmmuseum

Top 10 Architects
1 Helmut Jahn
Europes largest
(Sony Center) building site
2 Renzo Piano and In the 1920s, Potsdamer Platz was Europes busiest
Berlins Top 10
Christian Kohlbecker square, boasting the first automatic traffic lights in
(debis Headquarters, the world. During World War II this social hub was
Musical-Theater, razed to the ground. Untouched for almost 50 years,
Spielbank, Weinhaus the empty square shifted back into the centre of
Huth) Berlin when the Wall came down. During the 1990s,
3 Jos Rafael Moneo Potsdamer Platz became Europes largest building
(Hotel Grand Hyatt, site millions of curious onlookers from around the
Mercedes-Benz world came to watch progress from the famous red
Headquarters) info box. Altogether, around 17 billion euros were
4 Hans Kollhoff invested to create the present square.
(DaimlerChrysler)
5 Giorgio Grassi
(Park Colonnades)
6 Ulrike Lauber and
Wolfram Whr (Grimm-
Haus, Cinemaxx)
7 Sir Richard Rogers
(Office Block Linkstrae)
8 Steffen Lehmann and
Arata Isozaki DaimlerChrysler House
(Office and Retail House
Linkstrae) Moving the Esplanade
9 Heidenreich & Michel The Council of Berlin stipulated that Sony should
(Weinhaus Huth) preserve the Breakfast Room and the Emper-
0 Bruno Doedens and ors Hall of the Grand Hotel Esplanade, both
protected following destruction in World War II.
Maike van Stiphout
Accordingly, in 1996, the rooms were moved
(Tilla-Durieux-Park) 1,300 tons were loaded onto wheels and shifted
by 75 m (246 ft) during the course of a week.
The historic Emperors Hall is today incorporated into the modern Sony Center
19
Pergamon Altar
Pergamonmuseum The colossal Perga-
The Pergamonmuseum is one of the most impor- mon Altar, dating from
the year 160 BC, is the
tant museums of ancient art and architecture in largest and most impor-
the world. The museum was built in 190930 by tant treasure of the
Berlins Top 10
Alfred Messel and Ludwig Hoffmann to house Berlin museums. The

altar was part of a much
Berlins collection of antiquities as well as vast larger temple complex
temples and palace rooms in their original size. in the Greek town of
These works of art, excavated by German archae- Pergamon (today the
town of Bergama in
ologists in the Near East at the end of the 19th Turkey), excavated in the
century, were shown here for the first time. 19th century by the Ger-
man archaeologist Carl
Top 10 Exhibits Humann (see also pp223).
1 Pergamon Altar
2 Market Gate of Miletus
3 Assyrian Palace
4 Ishtar Gate
5 Goddess Persephone
Main entrance of the
Pergamonmuseum
6 Goddess Athena
7 Aleppo Room
On the Museums- 8 Roman Mosaic
insel itself there are
9 Palace of Mshatta
no inviting cafs.
0 Temple of Athena
However, the cafs
under the S-Bahn
arches opposite the
museum entrance
Market Gate of
are worth a visit.
Miletus
This vast gate (AD 120) is
Visitors wishing over 16 m (52 ft) high. To
to explore all the the right of the entrance,
museums on a hairdresser has carved
Museumsinsel on an advertisement for his
the same day, should shop into the stone.
buy a day ticket for
4. Admission is free Assyrian Palace
every first Sunday in The interior of this
the month. However, palace from the days of the
Sundays are general- Assyrian kings (12th century
ly best avoided BC) has been completely
because of the long restored and boasts impres-
sive statues of lions.
queues and large
groups of visitors.
Ishtar Gate
Museumsinsel, The imposing Ishtar
Bodestr. 13 (entrance Gate and the Processional
Am Kupfergraben) Way that led to it are fully
Map G3, J5 preserved. The original
(030) 20 90 50 avenue in ancient Babylon
www.smpk.de was 180 m (590 ft) long.
10am6pm TueSun The gate was built in the
Admission charge 6th century BC, during the
reign of Nebuchadnezar II.
Original faence wall tiles
depict the sacred lions.

Goddess
Persephone 7
The 5th-century BC
Greek statue (left) 8
of the goddess of the
underworld sports a
Berlins Top 10
mysterious smile, the 9
expressive symbol of 0 1
her divinity. 2
4
5 3
Goddess Athena Key to plan
The beauty ideal prevalent 6
in Greek antiquity is perfectly Antiquities
(ground floor)
reflected in this statues fea-
tures. It is one of many valu- Islamic Art
able and impressive sculp- (first floor)
tures worth exploring in the
collection of antiquities.
Aleppo Room
Dating from the early
17th century, this small
room features magnifi-
cent wooden cladding
taken from the house of
a Christian merchants
family in Syria. A beauti-
ful example of Ottoman
architecture, the room
originally served as a
reception hall.
Roman
mosaic
This magnificently
executed Roman floor
mosaic dates back to
the 3rd or 4th century
AD. It was excavated in
Gerasa in Jordan.
Palace of Temple of
Mshatta Athena
A gift from Sultan Hamid Dedicated to Athena
II to Kaiser Wilhelm II, of Nikephoros, this
this desert palace, built full-scale temple from
in AD 744 in Jordan, has the 2nd century BC
an elaborately decorated has a simple yet
southern faade. elegant design.
21
Berlins Top 10
A Roman sarcophagus from the 2nd century AD, showing scenes from the story of Medea
Figures on the Pergamon Altar

Eastern Altar Frieze The Goddess Athena
The eastern side of the altar The goddess Athena is also
frieze the side first lit up by the shown on the eastern frieze, as
rising sun depicts the battle a powerful figure of light who
between the gods and the giants. drags her opponents to their
deaths by their hair.
The God Apollo on
the Eastern Frieze The Gods of the Sea
Like no other deity on the Three pairs of sea gods
altar, the god Apollo is are depicted on the stair-
depicted as a noble man of case frieze (on the north-
ideal beauty, thus bearing ern staircase): Doris and
witness to the artistic Nereus, Oceanus and
mastery of Classical Tethys as well as Triton and
sculpture in Greece. Amphitrite.
The Titaness Phoebe The Goddess

An impressive figure Aphrodite
depicted on the southern Victorious, the fighting
frieze, Phoebe is shown, Athena goddess rises proudly
with her daughter Asteria, above two dead giants.
fighting an enormous giant with
a torch, sword and lance. Statues of Women
Larger-than-life figures of
Zeus in Battle women, found near the altar in
On the eastern frieze, the the excavations, are displayed in
father of all the gods on Mount front of the Pergamon Altar.
Olympus fights three giants at
the same time. Zeus is armed The Beisser Group
for this battle with his most The so-called Beisser Group
dangerous weapons thunder on the northern frieze is a group
and lightning. of unknown deities. One god,
almost defeated, desperately
tries to fight off a giant who has
clamped his teeth into his arm.
Telephos Frieze
The frieze in the upper altar
courtyard depicts Telephos, son
of Hercules. The kings of Perga-
mon thought themselves to be
descended from Telephos and
The goddess Athena in the altar frieze worshipped him accordingly.

Top 10 Events in
the Altars History
Saving the
1 The Pergamon Altar is Museumsinsel
built, c.160 BC The island of museums is a
Berlins Top 10
2 Excavation by Carl treasury of antique architecture
Humann, from 1870 yet it was slowly decaying.
3 Transfer of the Altar to Since 1992 a total of 1.6 mil-
Berlin, 1902 lion euros has been spent on
4 Start of construction of the renovation and moderniza-
Museumsinsel, 1909 tion of Museumsinsel. A master The Palace of
5 Pergamon Altar inaugu- plan was hatched by renowned Mshatta
rated in Berlin, 1930 architects, such as David Chipperfield and O M
6 Reception for the Ungers, which would transform the complex into
Olympic Games at the a unique museum landscape just as it had first
Altar, 1936 been conceived in the 19th century by Friedrich Wil-
7 Bombs destroy the helm IV, when he established the free instutition for
museum, 1943 art and the sciences. By 2008, all museums will be
8 Reconstruction of the linked by an architectural promenade, creating a
Museum, 1957 conceptual as well as a structural link between the
9 The IOC dines at the various parts (and providing disabled access). This
Altar, 1992 promenade will consist of a variety of light rooms,
0 Renovation to be courtyards and vaults as well as new exhibition halls.
completed, 2008 The core of the complex will be a new central
entrance building. Once renovated, the museums will
gradually reopen the Alte Nationalgalerie opened in
December 2001. In 1999, the Museumsinsel was
declared a World Heritage Sight by UNESCO.
Pergamon and Asia Minor

From 241 until 133 BC, the antique city of Perga-
mon was the capital of the Hellenistic Pergame-
nian Empire, ruling the northwestern region of
Asia Minor. Apart from many temples, the town,
which is now known as Bergama, and is in
Turkey, also boasted a famous library.
A 17th-century carpet with floral motifs from western Anatolia
23
Kurfrstendamm
After years of decline, the Kurfrstendamm, or Kudamm for short, has once
again become a fashionable hot spot. Breathtaking architecture, elegant
boutiques and a lively scene with street artists around Breitscheidplatz have
Berlins Top 10
made this shopping boulevard Berlins most attractive and at 3.8 km

(2.5 miles) also its longest avenue for strolling.
Top 10 Sights
1 Breitscheidplatz
2 Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche
Corner of Kurfrstendamm 3 Europa-Center
and Joachimsthaler Strae 4 Neues Kranzler-Eck
Only a few cafs in 5 Fasanenstrae
the Kudamm have 6 Kudamm-Eck
survived: the most 7 Lehniner Platz
charming is Caf 8 The Story of Berlin
Wintergarten in the 9 Galerie Brusberg
Literaturhaus at the 0 Iduna-Haus
southern end of
Fasanenstrae.
Breitscheidplatz
It is best to avoid Here, in the heart of the
Kudamm on Satur- city, artists, Berliners and
day mornings when visitors swarm around J
the boulevard is
Schmettans globe fountain,
known by locals as Wasser-
teeming with locals
klops (water meatball).
and tourists out on
shopping trips.
Map B/C5, P3/4
Tourist information
Europa-Center,
Budapester Str. 45
8:30am7pm Mon
Sat, 10am6:30pm Sun
(030) 25 00 25
Story of Berlin, Kur-

frstendamm 2078 Kaiser-Wilhelm-
10am8pm daily Gedchtnis-Kirche
(030) 88 72 01 00 One of Berlins most haunting symbols, the tower of
www.story-of-berlin.de the original church destroyed during World War II
stands in the centre of Breitscheidplatz, serving as both
Europa-Center, memorial and reminder of the terrors of war (see p26).
Tauentzienstr. 9
24 hours Europa-Center
(shops: 10am8pm) The oldest shopping
(030) 348 00 88 centre in West Berlin,
www.24EC.de originally opened in 1962,
is still worth a visit.
You will find shops and
restaurants as well as
the tourist information
centre here (see p163).
24 Kudamm: www.kurfuerstendamm.de
Neues Kranzler-Eck
One of Berlins most ambitious new
constructions, this glass and steel sky-
scraper was built in 2000 by the architect
Helmut Jahn. The legendary Caf
Kranzler was retained as a bar in front of
Berlins Top 10
the office block (see pp867).
Fasanenstrae
A small street off Kudamm, Fasanenstrae with
its galleries, expensive shops and restaurants is one
of Charlottenburgs most elegant areas (see pp801).
Kudamm-Eck
This hotel and busi-
ness complex (2001) has
endowed the boulevard
with new splendour (right).
Lehniner Platz
The square is home
to the Schaubhne, built
as Universum cinema in
1928 by Erich Mendel-
sohn, converted in 1978.
The Story
of Berlin
This interesting
multi-media show
takes visitors on a
tour of 800 years of
Berlins history from
the Great Elector to the
capital of Prussia, from When Kudamm
Willy Brandt to the Fall of was no more
the Wall. Underneath the
museum a nuclear bunker than a log road
can be visited. In 1542, todays magnifi-
cent boulevard was just
a humble Knppel-
damm, or log road. It
served the Electors as a
bridle path, linking the
town residence (Stadt-
schloss) and their hunt-
ing lodge (Jagdschloss).
Galerie Brusberg It was not until 1871
This Neo-Classical that the area around the
building (right) provides a Kudamm developed
glimpse of Kudamms into a fashionable new
erstwhile splendour. west end. Chancellor
Otto von Bismarck had
Iduna-Haus the boulevard modelled
The remarkable turreted on the Champs Elyses
house at this street corner in Paris, and requested
(left) is one of few bourgeois that his statue be erect-
houses preserved from the ed in the street as a
late 19th century. The richly thank you. So far, how-
ornamented, gleaming white ever, the Berliners have
Art Nouveau faade has been failed to oblige him.
lavishly restored.
For more on the Kurfrstendamm area see pp7883 25

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedchtnis-Kirche
One of the most haunting symbols of Berlin, the ruins of the memorial
church in the heart of the citys West End, have been irreverently nick-
named the hollow tooth. The Neo-Romanesque church was given the
Berlins Top 10
name of Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church in 1895, to honour Wilhelm I.

Following damage by severe bombing raids in 1943, the ruins of the
tower were left standing as a memorial. Next to it, Egon Eiermann erected
a new church in 195763. Religious services are now conducted here.
Top 10 Sights Tower Ruins

Only the tower of
1 Tower Ruins
the memorial church
2 Kaisers Mosaic survived the
3 Mosaic of the destruction of World
Hohenzollerns War II that razed
4 Coventry Crucifix much of the city to
the ground. Today
5 New Bell Tower
only 63 m (206 ft)
6 Main Altar high, it once rose to
The hollow tooth the
Tower Ruins 7 Tower Clock 113 m (370 ft). The
8 The Orthodox Cross hole in the towers
There are fantastic roof has a sharply
9 Original Mosaics
views of the church ragged edge which
from the Mvenpick 0 Figure of Christ
is why the tower
Caf in the Europa- was nicknamed hol-
Center opposite. Kaisers Mosaic low tooth by the
One of the mosaics Berliners.
If possible, visit the that have been preserved
interior of the new depicts Emperor Heinrich I
church on a sunny on his throne, with imperial
day around lunch- orb and sceptre (below).
time, when the blue Originally decorated through-
out with scenes from Ger-
glass window is at
man imperial history, the
its most impressive.
church interior was meant
to place the Hohenzollerns
within this tradition.
Breitscheidplatz
Map D4, N4 www.
gedaechtniskirche.de
(030) 218 50 23
Church 9am7pm,
memorial hall 10am
4pm MonSat
Services 10am and
6pm Sun
Admission free Mosaic of the
Hohenzollerns
The surprisingly
coloured mosaic of the
Hohenzollerns adorns
the vestibule of the
church ruins. It depicts
Emperor Wilhelm I
together with Queen
Luise of Prussia and
her entourage.
26
Coventry Crucifix New
This small crucifix was forged from Bell Tower
old nails that were found in the ruins of The new hexagonal bell
Coventry Cathedral. It commemorates tower rises 53 m (174 ft)
the bombing of Coventry, England, by high next to the tower
the German Luftwaffe in 1940. ruins, on the site of the
Berlins Top 10
old churchs main nave.
Main Altar
The golden figure of Christ
created by Karl Hemmeter is
suspended above the modern
main altar in the new church. In
the evening light, the windows
behind the altar glow an over-
whelming dark blue.
Tower Clock
The tower bears a clock
based on a Classical design,
with Roman numerals. At
night, it is lit in blue by
modern light-emitting
diodes to match the
lighting inside the
new church.
The Ortho-
dox Cross
A gift from the Russian
Orthodox bishops
of Volokolomsk and
Yuruyev, this cross
was given in memory of
the victims of Nazism.
A Church with
Two Lives
The Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche has
the Berliners to thank
for its preservation:
in 1947, the Senate had
planned to demolish
the Tower Ruins for
safety reasons. In a ref-
erendum only about ten
years later, however,
Original Mosaics one in two Berliners
Mosaics showing Prussian voted for its preserva-
dukes are preserved on tion. And so the idea
the walls and ceilings all came about to build a
along the stairways. new church next to the
ruin and to preserve
Figure of Christ the vestibule of the old
Miraculously, the vast, plain church as a striking
sculpture of Christ, which is memorial hall to the
suspended from the ceiling, sur- horrors of war.
vived the bombing of the church.
For more on Berlin churches see pp445 27

Schloss Charlottenburg
The construction of Schloss Charlottenburg, designed
Altes Schloss
as a summer residence for Sophie Charlotte, wife of The Baroque tower
the Elector Friedrich III, began in 1695. Between of the oldest part of the
Berlins Top 10
1701 and 1713 Johann Friedrich Eosander added palace (1695) by Johann
Arnold Nering is crowned
a cupola and the Orangerie was extended. Today, by Richard Scheibes
it has been extensively renovated. golden statue of Fortuna.
Top 10 Sights
1 Altes Schloss
2 Porzellankabinett
3 Schlosskapelle
Schloss Charlottenburg 4 Monument to the
The Orangery Caf Great Elector
(left of the main 5 Neuer Flgel
entrance) has an 6 Schlosspark
attractive garden. 7 Belvedere
8 Neuer Pavillon
At weekends, the
9 Mausoleum
palace park is over-
crowded, but a 0 Museum fr Vor- und
midweek early- Frhgeschichte
evening stroll can
be very romantic
(open till 8pm). Porzellankabinett
The small, exquisite
Spandauer Damm mirrored gallery has been
Map A/B3 Admission faithfully restored to its
charge in all museums original glory. Valuable
Two-day ticket for all porcelain items from China
museums: 12 and Japan are on display.
Altes Schloss: 9am
5pm TueFri, 10am5pm
Sat, Sun; Neuer Flgel:
10am6pm TueFri,
11am6pm Sat, Sun
(030) 32 09 11
Belvedere AprOct:
10am5pm TueSun;
NovMar: noon4pm
TueFri, noon5pm
Sat, Sun
Neuer Pavillon
10am5pm TueSun
(030) 32 09 14 43
Mausoleum AprOct:
10amnoon and 15pm
TueFri, noon5pm Sat,
Sun (030) 32 09 14 46 Schlosskapelle
Museum fr Vor- und The luxurious splendour of the palace chapel
Frhgeschichte recalls the once magnificent interior design of the
9am5pm TueFri, palace, before it was destroyed in World War II. But
10am5pm Sat, Sun appearances can be deceptive: apart from the pulpit
(030) 326 74 80 which is preserved in its original form, the entire chapel
including the kings box is a costly reconstruction.
28 Schloss Charlottenburg: www.spsg.de

Monument
to the Great Elector 7
The equestrian monument
of Friedrich Wilhelm I is
considered to be one of his
most dignified portraits. Made
Berlins Top 10
in 16961703 by Andreas
Schlter, it originally stood 9
on the Rathausbrcke, near
the destroyed Stadtschloss.
6
Neuer Flgel
Built between 1740
and 1747 by Georg Wen- 21 8
5
zeslaus von Knobels- 0 3 4
dorff, the new wing
contains Frederick the
Greats private quarters. Palace Layout
Schlosspark
The palace park, originally Baroque in style, was
redesigned by Peter Joseph Lenn between 1818
and 1828 as an English-style landscape garden.
Belvedere
Friedrich Wilhelm II
liked to escape to the
romantic Belvedere, a
summer residence built
in 1788 by Carl Gotthard
Langhans, which served
as a tea pavilion.
Today it houses a
collection of precious
Berlin porcelain objects.
Neuer Pavillon
This Italianate villa
behind the palace,
designed by Schinkel
for Friedrich Wilhelm III
in 1825, was inspired
by the Villa Reale del
Chiatamone in Naples.
The pavilion clearly
shows the Hohenzollerns
love of the Italian style.
Mausoleum
Slightly hidden, this
Neo-Classical building
(above) by Schinkel, is
the final resting place for
Queen Luise and other
Hohenzollerns.
Museum fr Vor- und Frhgeschichte

The museum displays archaeological finds from
prehistory right up to the Middle Ages, including
tools, ceramics and textiles. Also on display is part of
the famous Priamus treasure excavated by Heinrich
Schliemann in Troy, which comprises precious
golden jewellery from antiquity.
For more on Charlottenburg see pp7883 29

Berlins Top 10
Left The new wing Centre Frederick the Greats Watteau painting Right Neuer Pavillon
Palace Rooms
Goldene Galerie Bibliothek
The festival salon in the Frederick the Greats small
Neuer Flgel, 42 m (138 ft) long, library has outstanding elegant
was designed, in the Rococo book cases and an unusual, light
style, by G W von Knobelsdorff green colour scheme.
for Frederick the
Great. The richly orna- Konzertkammer
mented room has a Furniture and gild-
cheerful appearance. ed panelling in the
concert hall have been
Ahnengalerie faithfully recreated as
The wooden pan- during Frederick the
elling of the so-called Greats time. Here
oak gallery is carved hangs Gersaints Shop
with preciously gilded Sign, which the king
portraits of the Ho- bought directly from
henzollern ancestors. the artist Watteau.
Gris-de-Lin- Ahnengalerie Grnes Zimmer

Kammer The green room
This small chamber in Friedrichs in Queen Elisabeths quarters
second palace apartment is dec- gives an excellent impression of
orated with paintings, including royal chambers furnished in the
some by his favourite artist, 19th-century Biedermeier style.
Antoine Watteau. The room was Also on display in this room are
named after its violet-coloured two models of the palace, made
damask (gris-de-lin in French) from mother-of-pearl and ivory.
wall coverings.
Rote Kammer
Schlafzimmer The elegant chamber, deco-
Knigin Luise rated entirely in red and gold,
Queen Luises bedchamber, is adorned by portraits of King
designed in 1810 by Karl Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte.
Friedrich Schinkel, features the
clear lines typical of the Neo- Friedrich Is
Classical style. The walls are clad Audienzkammer
in silk fabrics and wallpaper. The ceiling paintings and Belgian
tapestries in Friedrich Is recep-
Winterkammern tion chamber depict allegorical
Friedrich Wilhelm IIs early figures symbolizing the fine arts
Neo-Classical rooms contain and the sciences. There are also
fine paintings, wall carpets and magnificent lacquered cabinets,
superb furniture of the time. modelled on Asian originals.
30
Top 10 Hohen-
zollern rulers The Hohenzollern
1 Friedrich Wilhelm and Berlin
(the Great Elector, In 1412, the Hohenzollern
Berlins Top 10
162088) dynasty, not originally resident
2 Friedrich I (16571713) in the Berlin area, was asked
3 Friedrich Wilhelm I by the Ascanian King Sigis-
(16881740) mund to liberate the province
4 Friedrich II (the Great) of Brandenburg from the men- Prussias first king:
(171286) ace of robber barons. Burggraf Friedrich I
5 Friedrich Wilhelm II Friedrich of Hohenzollern from
(174497) Nuremberg was so successful in this enterprise that
6 Friedrich Wilhelm III he was made an Elector in 1415 this is where the
(17701840) histories of the Hohenzollerns and Berlin first
7 Friedrich Wilhelm IV became entwined, a relationship that was to last for
(17951861) 500 years. Right from the start, the family attempted
8 Wilhelm I (17971888) to limit the powers of the town. Culture flourished
9 Friedrich III (183188) under its rulers, especially under the Great Elector,
0 Wilhelm II (18591941) who brought 20,000 Huguenot craftsmen to Berlin,
as well as founding an art gallery and several
schools. Friedrich Wilhelm I, father of Frederick the
Great, transformed Berlin into a military camp, with
parade grounds and garrisons, and scoured the
town for tall men to join his body guard. In the 19th
century, however, relations between Berlin and the
Hohenzollerns became decidedly less cordial.
Frederick the Great in Charlottenburg
Frederick II had two apartments furnished for
himself in the palace, and he took a strong per-
sonal interest in the design of the Neuer Flgel
in 17407. From 1745, after the end of the
Second Silesian War, he stayed at the palace
less and less often, preferring his palace at Sans-
souci, although larger festivities in the presence
Frederick the Great of the King still took place at Charlottenburg.
The Altes Schloss, designed in 1695 by Johann Arnold Nering
For more on historical architecture in Berlin see pp389 31

Kulturforum
The Kulturforum is a unique complex of museums,
concert halls and libraries, based at the south-
eastern end of the Tiergarten. Every year, some of
Berlins Top 10
the most outstanding European art museums, as

well as the famous concert hall of the Berlin
Philharmonic Orchestra, attract millions of visitors
who are interested in culture and music. The Kul- Gemldegalerie
Berlins largest art
turforum, based in the former West Berlin, has museum boasts some of
been growing since 1956, as a counterpoint to the the finest masterpieces
Museumsinsel in the former East Berlin. Here visi- of European art. They are
displayed in the modern
tors can admire some of the best examples of Neubau, built in 1998
modern architecture in the capital. by the architects Heinz
Hilmer and Christoph
Top 10 Sights Sattler. The superb
collection includes
1 Gemldegalerie
paintings by Holbein,
2 Neue Nationalgalerie Drer, Gossaert, Bosch,
Neue Nationalgalerie in 3 Philharmonie Brueghel the Elder, Ver-
the Kulturforum 4 Kunstgewerbemuseum meer, Titian, Caravaggio,
5 Musikinstrumentenmuseum Rubens, Rembrandt and
Enjoy a break around
many others.
the quiet back of the 6 Kammermusiksaal
Nationalgalerie. 7 Kupferstichkabinett
8 St Matthuskirche
A day ticket (4) 9 Staatsbibliothek
gives admission to
0 Kunstbibliothek
all museums.
Map E4, L1/2

Gemldegalerie, Mat-
thikirchplatz 8 10am
6pm TueSun, till 10pm
Thu (030) 20 90 55 55
Admission charge
Neue Nationalgalerie,
Potsdamer Str. 50
10am6pm TueFri,
10am10pm Thu, Neue Philharmonie
11am6pm Sat, Sun Nationalgalerie This tent-like build-
(030) 266 26 62 Based in a building by Mies ing, designed by Hans
Admission charge van der Rohe, the gallery Scharoun in 19603, was
exhibits mainly 20th-centu- the first new structure in
Kunstgewerbemuseum,
Matthikirchplatz ry art, with an emphasis on the Kulturforum. Consid-
German Expressionism, ered one of the best con-
10am6pm TueFri,
11am6pm Sat, Sun such as Karl Schmitt-Rot- cert halls in the world, it
tluffs Farm in Daugart is the seat of the Berlin
(030) 266 29 02
(1910) (see also p48). Philharmonic Orchestra.
Admission charge
It is also known, jokingly,
Musikinstrumenten- as Circus Karajani, after
museum, Tiergartenstr. 1 Herbert von Karajan
9am5pm TueFri, (190889) who conducted
10am5pm Sat, Sun the Philharmonic Orches-
(030) 25 48 10 tra for many years. Sir
Admission charge Simon Rattle has been
the conductor since 2002.

Kunstgewerbe- SS E
S TR A 5
museum TIERG
A RT EN
8
H. V
Craft objects from 4
ON
the Middle Ages to 3
K AR
7 AJ
AN
the present day and 1
ST R
. AS
SE
0 6
R
from around Europe
ST
SI G IS
Berlins Top 10
MUN
R
ME
D ST R
are on show here, A SS E
SDA
including valuable
P OT
2 9
items like this
Baroque clock and
the Guelphs treasure
(see also p47).
Musikinstrumen- Kammer-
tenmuseum musiksaal
Concealed behind the The smaller relative of
Philharmonie is this fasci- the larger Philharmonie,
nating little museum of this concert hall is one
musical instruments. of Germanys most highly
More than 750 exhibits, regarded venues for
particularly of early chamber music. It was
instruments such as built in 19848, to a
harpsichords, are on design by Hans Scharoun,
show (see also p47), as carried through by his Kupferstich-
well as a 1929 Wurlitzer. pupil Edgar Wisniewski. kabinett
The Gallery of Copper
Engravings holds more
than 520,000 prints and
80,000 drawings from
all periods and coun-
tries, including this
portrait of Drers
mother (see
also p49).
St Matthuskirche Staatsbibliothek
This church is the only Built in 196778
historical building to have been according to plans by
preserved in the Kultur- Hans Scharoun, the
forum. Built by F A National Library has
Stler in 18446, it is a collection of five mil-
also a venue for art lion books, manuscripts
installations as well and journals, making it
as a hall for classical one of the largest
concerts. German-language
libraries in the world.
Kunstbibliothek
The unassuming Art Library holds,
among other items, a vast collection of
art and advertising posters. It also
hosts temporary exhibitions on archi-
tecture and art as well as design shows.
33
Berlins Top 10
Left Merchant Georg Gisze Centre Venus and the Organ Player Right Portrait of Holzschuher
Gemldegalerie 7 8
Portrait of Hieronymus
Holzschuher 6
Albrecht Drer painted this 5
portrait of the mayor of Nurem- 0
9 2
burg in 1529.
Portrait of the Merchant 3 1

Georg Gisze
This painting by Hans Holbein 4
(1532), showing the merchant
counting his money, reflects the Key
rise of the wealthy citizen during
the Renaissance. Exhibition area
Madonna with Child and Portrait of

Singing Angels Hendrickje Stoffels
A 1477 painting by Sandro In a 16567 portrait of his
Botticelli depicts the lover Hendrickje Stoffels,
Madonna and Child, Rembrandts focus is
surrounded by angels entirely on the subject.
carrying lilies.
The French
The Birth Comedy
of Christ This painting by
Martin Schongauers Antoine Watteau
altar painting (c.1480) Botticellis Madonna belonged to Frederick
is one of only a few reli- the Greats collection.
gious paintings by the artist that
have been preserved. The Glass of Wine
Skilfully composed by Ver-
Victorious meer (165861), this scene
Eros shows a couple drinking wine.
Caravaggios
painting (1602), Venus and the Organ
after Vergils Player
model, shows This Titian (15502) reflects the
Eros, the god playful sensuality typical of the
of love, tram- Italian Renaissance.
pling underfoot
the symbols of Dutch Proverbs
culture, glory, More than 100 proverbs
science and were incorporated into this paint-
Victorious Eros power. ing by Pieter Brueghel (1559).
34 For more on Berlins art galleries see pp489

Top 10 Architects
Architecture in the
1 Hans Scharoun (Philhar-
monie) Kulturforum
2 Mies van der Rohe The Kulturforum was planned
Berlins Top 10
(Neue Nationalgalerie) to fill the large area between
3 James Stirling (Wis- Potsdamer Strae and
senschaftszentrum) Leipziger Platz that had been
4 Heinz Hilmer destroyed during World War
(Gemldegalerie) II. The original idea for a
5 Christoph Sattler varied townscape of muse-
(Gemldegalerie) ums and parks is credited to Sculpture by
6 Friedrich August Stler the Berlin architect Hans Henry Moore
(St. Matthuskirche) Scharoun, who had designed plans for this in the
7 Edgar Wisniewski years 1946 and 1957. It was also Scharoun who,
(Kammermusiksaal) with the construction of the Philharmonie in 1963,
8 Rolf Gutbrod (Kunst- set the character of the Kulturforum: the tent-like,
gewerbemuseum) golden roofs of the music hall, the Kammermusik-
9 August Busse (altes saal and the Staatsbibliothek, all designed by
Wissenschaftszentrum) Scharoun and after his death realized by his
0 Bruno Doedens pupil Edgar Wisniewski, are today among Berlins
(Henriette-Herz-Park) best-known landmarks. All the buildings are charac-
terized by the generous proportions of their rooms.
In their day, the Scharoun buildings were highly
controversial but today they are considered to be
classics of modern architecture.
Mies van der Rohes Nationalgalerie

The Neue Nationalgalerie, built to plans by Mies
van der Rohe in 19658, is the only museum in
the world designed by this Bauhaus architect.
Having emigrated to the USA in 1937, van der
Rohe returned to Berlin for its construction.
The Philharmonie, designed by Hans Scharoun famed for its superb acoustics
Gemldegalerie: www.smb.spk-berlin.de/smb/en/standorte/ 35
Zoologischer Garten Panda Bears
Berlins Zoological Garden is Germanys oldest zoo Bao-Bao the Giant
Panda (one of the most
and, with over 1,400 different species, it is one of endangered species in
the best-stocked in the world. Animals have been the world) is the greatest
Berlins Top 10
kept and bred here, in the northwest of the Tier- star of the Berlin Zoo.
He was presented to
garten district, since 1844. A total of about 13,000 Germany by China as an
animals live in the zoo, ranging from saucer jelly- official gift in 1980. His
fish to the Indian elephant. Some enclosures are female partner Yan Yan is
on loan from China for
interesting buildings in their own right. In summer, breeding purposes.
a visit to the zoo is a favourite day out for Berlin-
ers, and many animals, such as the panda and
baby gorillas, have become celebrities.
Top 10 Zoo Sights
1 Panda Bears
2 Monkey House
3 Lions Outdoor Enclosure
4 Giraffe House
5 Nocturnal Animal House
6 Elephant House
The Elephant Gate the
7 Aviaries
Zoos main entrance 8 Crocodile Hall
9 Aquarium
There is a caf with
terrace inside the 0 Amphibians Section
zoo, to the right of
the Elephant Gate.
A day at the zoo is

not complete with-
out a visit to the
aquarium. The basins
and terraria teem
with life, as do the
zoo enclosures. A
combined ticket for
15 entitles you to
visit both zoo and
aquarium.
Monkey House
Monkeys and apes are
at home in this house, and
Hardenbergplatz 8 and here you can watch gorillas,
Budapester Str. 34 orang-utangs and chim-
(030) 25 40 10 Map panzees swinging from tree
D4, N5 www.zoo- to tree and playing in the
berlin.de mid- straw. The venerable East-
Octmid-Mar: ern Lowland Gorillas, who
9am5pm daily; raise several young in a
mid-Marmid-Oct: group, are always a special Lions Outdoor
9am6:30pm daily hit with young and old alike. Enclosure
Aquarium: 9am6pm The big attraction, however, The kings of the desert
daily Admission charge which draws the greatest usually sit aloft the high
crowds, is Sangha, a small rocks. The lions are fed at
baby gorilla, who is being 2:30pm in summer and
raised by his carers. at 3:30pm in winter.
36
7
Giraffe
House
The African-style
Giraffe House is
the oldest house
(18712). Visitors
6
Berlins Top 10
enjoy watching 4
the giraffes as 1 5
they nibble the 2 3
0
leaves of a tree 89
or bend down, in
slow motion, to
take a drink.
Nocturnal Animal House

This house, in the cellar of the Predatory Animal
House, houses the creatures of the night, including
nocturnal reptiles and birds. Here you can admire
striped bandicoots, fruit bats and slender loris.
Asleep during the day, their hearing is outstanding
and their eyes may light up uncannily in the dark.
Elephant House
These good-natured
pachyderms have a
healthy appetite: fully-
grown male Indian
elephants devour up to
50 kg (110 lb) of hay a
day! Four elephants have
been born in captivity.
Aviaries Crocodile Hall

Nowhere else in the Not for the faint-
city can you hear such hearted: in the crocodile
singing, tweeting and hall visitors cross a small
whistling cockatiels, wooden footbridge, only
birds-of-paradise, parrots, 2 m (6 ft) above the doz-
hornbills and humming- ing creatures. The reptiles
birds sound off in the are fed their meat every
Bird House aviaries. other Monday at 3:30pm.
Aquarium Amphibians Section

The greatest draw in the aquarium, Poisonous snakes, bird spiders
where Caribbean and Amazonian habitats and reptiles as well as other amphib-
have been recreated, are the blacktip ians crawl and slither around behind
reef sharks and green morays. The elec- glass on the second floor of the
tric eel, able to generate up to 800 volts, aquarium. A particularly spectacular
and the sting-rays are also popular. event is the feeding of the spiders.
Aquarium: www.aquarium-berlin.de 37
Berlins Top 10
Left Statues at Altes Museum Centre Schloss Bellevue Right Portico of the Konzerthaus
Historic Buildings
Brandenburger Tor with which it is built, harks back
More than a mere symbol, to the proud days when Berlin
the Brandenburg Gate is synony- became the capital of the new
mous with Berlin (see pp89). Empire. Built in 18619 accord-
ing to designs by Hermann Fried-
Schloss Charlottenburg rich Waesemann, the town hall
This palace boasts Baroque was one of Germanys largest
and Rococo splendours and a and most magnificent buildings,
beautiful park, making it one of built to promote the splendour
the most attractive in Germany of Berlin. The structure was mod-
(see pp2831). elled on Italian Renaissance
palaces, and the tower is remi-
Schloss Bellevue niscent of Laon cathedral in
Built according to plans by France. The exterior was deco-
Philipp Daniel Boumann in rated with Die steinerne Chronik
178590, this palace was the (the stone chronicle) in 1879,
residence of the Hohenzollerns depicting scenes from the citys
until 1861. Since 1994 the stately history (see p131). d Rathausstrae
building with its Neo-Classical 15 Map G3, K6 8am6pm daily
faade has been the official resi-
dence of the President of the Konzerthaus
Federal Republic. The modern, The Concert Hall, one of
egg-shaped Presidential Offices Karl Friedrich Schinkels master-
stand immediately next to the pieces, was until recently known
old palace. d Spreeweg 1 Map E4 as Schauspielhaus (theatre). The
Not open to the public building has a portico with Ionic
columns, and a large number of
Reichstag statues of allegorical and histori-
The seat of the Deutscher cal personages, some riding lions
Bundestag, the German parlia- and panthers, as well as deities,
ment, with its spectacular cupo- muses and bacchants.
la, is a magnet for visitors (see d Gendarmenmarkt 2 Map L4
pp101). 10am8pm daily
(030) 203 09 21 01
Berliner
Rathaus Hackesche
Berlins Town Hfe
Hall, also known This complex
as Red Town of 19th-century
Hall because of warehouses
the red bricks consists of nine
from Branden- interlinked court-
burg Province Southern faade of the Berliner Rathaus yards, some of
38
which are
decorated Altes Museum
in Art- and Gardens
Nouveau The faade of the
style, originally Old Museum, possi-
Berlins Top 10
by August Endell. bly one of the most
In the early 1990s the attractive Neo-Classi-
complex was completely cal museums in
renovated. The first court- Europe, is remarkable
yard is particularly attrac- for the shiny red mar-
tive: coloured glazed tiles ble used in its con-
with geometric patterns struction, which is visi-
decorate the house Victoria, the goddess of ble behind 18 Ionic
from the foundations victory, on the Siegessule columns. Built in
up to the guttering. In 1830 according to
the last courtyard, trees are plans by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, it
grouped around was at the time one of the first
an idyllic well. buildings to be created specifi-
The Hackesche cally as a museum. Originally it
Hfe is one of was to house the royal collection
Berlins most of paintings and antique art
popular hot- treasures; today it is home to a
spots; restaur- collection of antiquities. In front
ants, cafs, a of the museum, on Museumsin-
cinema and the sel, are the gardens designed by
Chamleon Peter Joseph Lenn. Conceived
variety show as the kings herb garden, it is
attract visitors today decorated with a granite
from afar. bowl by Gottlieb Christian Cant-
d Rosenthaler Str. ian, weighing 70 tons (see p114).
4041 Map G3, J5
Hackesche Hfe 9am2am daily Zeughaus
Designed by J A Nering as the
Siegessule first Berlin Baroque building, the
The Victory Column in Tier- former Royal Prussian Arsenal is
garten, 62 m (203 ft) high, deco- now the Deutsches Historisches
rated with the statue of Victoria, Museum (see pp1215), with a
offers great views (see p97). modern addition by L M Pei.
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For more about historic buildings see Unter den Linden pp125 39
Berlins Top 10
Left Neue Nationalgalerie in the Kulturforum Right Nordic Embassies
Modern Buildings
Sony Center hyper-modern building stands a
One of Berlins largest new gleaming white cube with round
structures is the spectacular windows, which Berliners quickly
Sony Center (see p16). nicknamed washing machine.
Critics describe the design as
Neue Nationalgalerie pompous, while civil servants
This impressive low building dislike their small offices. The
with its huge windows was built interior of the building is decorat-
in 19658 according to plans by ed with valuable modern paint-
Mies van der Rohe. It was the ings. The Chancellors office on
first building to be designed by the 7th floor has a view of the
the pioneering Bauhaus architect Reichstag. d Willy-Brandt-Str. 1
after his emigration to the USA. Map J/K2 Not open to the public
He was able to make use of his
earlier designs for the Havana
headquarters of the Bacardi com-
pany, which had been abandoned
following the Cuban Revolution
(see pp32, 48). d Potsdamer Str. 50
Map E4 10am6pm TueFri, until 10pm
Thu, 11am6pm Sat, Sun
Bundeskanzleramt
Berliners are not too fond
of the Chancellors new offices,
although this is the only new
government building to have
been designed by a Berlin archi-
tect. Axel Schultes developed a
vast, elongated office complex,
which extends north of the Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
Reichstag, in a bend of the
Spree, even stretching across Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
the river. In the centre of the The seat of the Berlin Stock
Exchange, Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
was designed by the British
architect Nicholas Grimshaw in
19948. Locals call it the arma-
dillo, because the 15 giant metal
arches of the domed building
recall the giant animals armour.
d Fasanenstr. 8384 Map N4
The new Bundeskanzleramt 8am6pm MonFri
40
Quartiere 205207
Friedrichstrae
The Galeries Lafayettes and
the Friedrichstadtpassagen are
based within these three office
Berlins Top 10
blocks by architects Nouvel, Pei
and Ungers (see p119).
Nordische Botschaften
No other new embassy
building has caused as much of a
stir as the five embassies of the
Scandinavian countries: the
green shutters open and close
depending on the amount of
The Kant-Dreieck in Charlottenburg available light. d Klingelhferstr.
Map N6 Not open to the public
Philharmonie and
Kammermusiksaal DG Bank on Pariser Platz
Two modern concert halls in the This elegant building by
Kulturforum were designed by Frank Owen Gehry combines
Hans Scharoun in 1961 and 1987 Prussian and modern architec-
respectively the Chamber ture. The giant dome inside is
Music Hall was completed particularly remarkable (see
according to Scharouns plans by pp101). d Pariser Platz 3 Map K3
his pupil Edgar Wisniewski. Both 10am6pm MonFri
buildings are renowned for their
excellent acoustics as well as Kant-Dreieck
for their tent-like roof structures The aluminium sail on top the
(see also pp325 and 567). KapHag-Groups headquarters,
built by Josef Paul Kleihues in
Philip-Johnson-Haus 19925, has become a symbol
This retail and office com- of the new Berlin. Originally, the
plex, built in 19947 by US star structure was to be built one-
architect Philip Johnson, reflects third higher than it is now, but
in its design the clear lines of the plans were vetoed by the
the Bauhaus style. Berlin Senate. d Kantstr. 155
d Friedrichstr. 200 Map L4 Map N4 9am6pm MonFri
ALT-M
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For more on architecture in Potsdamer Platz see pp169 41

Berlins Top 10
Left At Checkpoint Charlie Centre Grafitti on the Wall Right Marlene Dietrich in the Blue Angel
Moments in History
1685: Edict of 1928: Golden
Potsdam Twenties
Berlins history as a Between 1919 and
cultural capital began 1933, Berlin flour-
in 1685, when the ished culturally and
far-sighted Great became an important
Elector announced in metropolis. Film, the-
the Edict of Potsdam atre, cabaret shows
that around 20,000 and thousands of
Huguenots would be restaurants and
taken in by Berlin. bars transformed the
Many were excellent Statue of the Great Elector town into an interna-
craftsmen and scien- tional centre of
tists, who, having fled Catholic entertainment. In the realms of
France because of their fine art and architecture, too,
Protestant beliefs, brought a new Berlin set new standards.
age of cultural ascendancy to the
provincial town.
1744: Frederick the Great

Although Old Fritz, as
Frederick the Great was nick-
named, preferred the isolation of
Sanssouci to the bustle of Berlin,
in 1740 he began to transform
the city into a new metropolis. May 1945: Berlin in ruins
In particular, the Forum Frideri-
cianum in Unter den Linden 1945: Surrender
brought new splendours to the Signed in Berlin-Karlshorst on
town, and masterpieces such as 8 May 1945, Germanys uncondi-
the national opera house helped tional surrender marked more
transform Berlin into one of the than the end of World War II. The
most important European cities. previous Jewish population of
161,000 had virtually disappeared
and Berliners called their city
the empires fields of rubble.
1953: Workers Uprising

in East Germany
On 17 June 1953, construction
workers in Frankfurter Allee
demonstrated against an
Frederick playing the flute in Sanssouci increase in the average rate of
42 Old Photos of Berlin: www.luise-berlin.de/Historie/indexhis.htm

Dutschke and others propounded
political change, free love and a
reappraisal of Germanys Nazi
past. The movement came to an
untimely end when Dutschke
Berlins Top 10
1953: workers on a frieze in Frankfurter Allee was assassinated in April 1968.
production. Soviet tanks sup-
pressed the rebellion while, in 1989: Fall of the Wall
West Berlin, the uprising was The fall of the Berlin Wall in
interpreted as a demonstration November 1989 heralded a new
for German unification. dawn. For the first time in 30
years, Berliners from both halves
1961: Building of the Wall of the divided city were able to
The building of the Berlin visit each other. The town cele-
Wall, which commenced during brated all along Kudamm and in
the night of 12 August 1961, front of the Brandenburg Gate.
was, after the surrender of 1945,
the second most traumatic event
for many Berliners. Many fami-
lies were torn apart by the con-
crete wall and more than 100
people were to be killed over the
following 30 years at the border
dividing East and West.
Celebrations after the Fall of the Berlin Wall
1963: I am a Berliner
No other politician was as When the Wall was built, Willy
enthusiastically received in Berlin Brandt, then governing mayor of
as the US President John F. West Berlin, had promised:
Kennedy. On 17 July 1963, in Berlin will survive! He was
front of Rathaus Schneberg, he right.
declared to the cheering crowd:
I am a Berliner. Berliners 1991: Berlin becomes the
had forgiven the US for staying capital of Germany
silent when the Wall was built. In 1991, Berlin was officially
Kennedy confirmed once more declared the capital of the
that the Western Allies would reunified Federal Republic of
stand by Berlin and support the Germany. Allied Forces left the
town, just as they had done city during 1994, but it was only
during the blockade of 19489, when the Bundestag, the
when the US and Britain air-lifted German parliament, moved here
food to the island of from Bonn on 19 April 1999 that
West Berlin. Berlin became the real
capital. Today,
1968: all the main
The late ministries, the
Sixties Bundesrat (upper
During the late house), and the
1960s, West Chancellors and
Berlin students the Presidents
transformed offices are based
Germany. Rudi 1991: Berlin becomes the capital in Berlin.
For famous Berliners see pp501 43

Berlins Top 10
Left St Hedwigskathedrale Centre Berliner Dom interior Right Main altar in Marienkirche
Churches & Synagogues

Berliner Dom
Berlin Cathedral, the largest
and most lavish church in town,
was reopened in 1993, after
almost 40 years of restoration.
Designed by Julius Raschdorf in
18941905, the building reflects
the empires aspirations to
power. In particular, the imperial
stairs, made from black marble,
are a manifestation of the prox- The interior of Nikolaikirche
imity of the Hohenzollern town
residence opposite the cathedral. Gotthard Langhans. The font
Members of this ruling dynasty (1437) and the fresco Dance of
are buried in the crypt. The main the Dead (1485) are among the
nave, topped by a 85-m (279-ft) churchs oldest treasures. The
high dome is remarkable. The richly ornamented Baroque pulpit
church is dominated by a magnif- was created by Andreas Schlter
icent 20th-century Neo-Baroque in 1703. d Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 8
pulpit and the giant Sauer organ. Map J6 10am6pm MonSat,
d Am Lustgarten Map K5 AprSep: noon6pm Sun; Services 10:30am Sun
9am8pm daily; OctMar: 9am7pm daily Admission charge
(030) 20 26 91 19
Nikolaikirche
St Hedwigs- Berlins oldest
kathedrale sacred building, the
Berlins largest Catholic Church of St Nicholas
church was commis- was built in 1230, in the
sioned by Frederick the Nikolaiviertel. The pres-
Great in 174773 after ent church, with its red-
his conquest of Silesia brick twin towers, dates
(see pp 1215). from around 1300. It is
d Bebelplatz Map K4 particularly famous for
10am5pm MonSat, the portal on the west
15pm Sun Font in Marienkirche wall of the main nave,
created by Andreas
Marienkirche Schlter. It is adorned with a
Work started in 1270 on the gilded relief depicting a gold-
Church of St Mary, which nestles smith and his wife. The church
at the foot of the Fernsehturm. was rebuilt in 1987 and today
Gothic and Baroque in style, it houses parts of the municipal
has an impressive Neo-Gothic museum. d Nikolaikirchplatz Map K6
tower, added in 1790 by Carl 10am6pm TueSun Admission charge
44 Neue Synagoge Centrum Judaicum: www.cjudaicum.de

Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche
A landmark in West Berlin, the
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
successfully combines modern
Berlins Top 10
architecture with the ruins of the
church tower (see pp267).
Neue Synagoge
Berlins largest synagogue,
built originally in 185966, was Dome of the Neue Synagoge
demolished in World War II but
completely reconstructed in onion domes. Services are still
198895. Its magnificent dome held in Russian, following Ortho-
is visible from afar (see p123). dox rituals. d Hohenzollerndamm 166
d Oranienburger Str. 2930 Map B6 Only during service
Map G3, J4 10am & 6pm Sat, 10am Sun
(030) 88 02 83 00
Admission charge Franzsischer
Dom
Friedrichswerder- At 66 m (216 ft) high,
sche Kirche this Baroque tower,
This small brick church which dates back to
was built by Karl 17015, is a magnificent
Friedrich Schinkel in ornamental
182430, in the Neo- structure for the
Gothic style. Originally church serving Berlins
it was meant to serve Huguenot community.
the German and French d Gendarmenmarkt 5 Map
communities of the The nave of Friedrichs- L4 (030) 206 499 22 noon
Friedrichswerder werdersche Kirche 5pm TueSat, 11am5pm Sun
district. Today, the
Schinkel Museum is
BRU N
8
SE
AS
NEN
based here.
TR
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IT
S TR .
d Werderscher Markt
ALLE E
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KO
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IDENS Prenzlauer
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SE
RO
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H
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The small synagogue
EN
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AS
STR
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looks the same today
ST R A
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SS
as when it was origi-

SSE
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ST
ST
6
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nally built 100 years BU M SS
RA
RG NZ E
N-
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ago (see p140). AS
BR
SE Bahnhof
Alexanderplatz
Monbijoupark
-
ALE X AN D E R-
TO
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KA
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Christi- Museums
EB
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The only Russian-

R.
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Orthodox church in
BEBEL- Mitte 4 Friedrichshain
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known for its green 750 yards 0 metres 750
For more on Berlins historic architecture see pp389 45

Berlins Top 10
Left Detail from the Pergamon Altar frieze Right Tapestry in the Kunstgewerbemuseum
Museums
Pergamonmuseum visitor on a journey through Ger-
Berlins most impressive man history, from the Middle
museum is a vast treasure trove Ages to the present day. Spe-
of antiquities (see pp203). cial exhibitions are devot-
ed to particular themes
gyptisches (see pp125).
Museum
The star exhibit in the Dahlem Museums
Egyptian Museum, currently The five museums
in the Altes Museum, is the based in southern Berlin
beautiful bust of Nefertiti, wife are a fantastic resource
of Akhenaton. The long-necked of exotic cultures. Four
limestone bust, discovered in museums are devoted to
1912, probably served as a Far Eastern, Indian, North
model. Also worth seeing American and African art,
is the Berlin Green Head, from prehistory to the
a small bust from the 4th present day. Among the
century BC. The muse- Bust of Nefertiti star exhibits are
um also holds numerous bronzes from Benin
mummies, sarcophagi, murals and Japanese woodcuts. The
and sculptures. Ethnologisches Museum (Muse-
d Bodestr. 13, Am Lustgarten Map K5 um of Ethnology), devoted to the
10am6pm MonSun (030) 34 35 73 11 cultures of the Pacific area, is
Admission charge equally impressive. Among its
exhibits are gold treasures of the
Deutsches Historisches Inca (see p89).
Museum
Germanys largest History Jdisches Museum
Museum uses unique exhibits, The new Jewish Museum,
documents and films to take the housed in a spectacular building
designed by Daniel Libeskind,
documents the GermanJewish
relationship through the cen-
turies. There are special exhibi-
tions on the influence of Berlin
Jews on the towns cultural life,
and on the life of the Enlighten-
ment philosopher Moses
Mendelssohn. An empty room
commemorates the loss of Jew-
ish culture. There is also an excit-
ing programme of special events
The Jewish Museum (see p103).
46 gyptisches Museum: www.smb.spk-berlin.de/amp/s.html

Deutsches
Technikmuseum
The fascinating Museum of Tech-
nology, on the site of a former
station, has fascinating hands-on
Berlins Top 10
displays on the history of tech-
nology (see p103).
Kunstgewerbemuseum Brachiosaurus in the Natural History Museum

European crafts from over
five centuries are on display at Haus am Checkpoint
this museum. Its most valuable Charlie
exhibits are the treasure of the The museum at the former Allied
Guelphs from Braunschweig and checkpoint documents events at
the silver treasure of the town the Berlin Wall (see p103).
council in Lneburg. The museum
also holds valuable Italian Musikinstrumenten-
tin-glazed earthenware, museum
Renaissance faence and Some 750 musical instru-
German Baroque glass ments can be heard in this
and ceramics. Popular museum, including such
displays show Neo- famous ones as Freder-
Classical porcelain and ick the Greats harpsi-
furniture, Jugendstil art chord. Dont miss the
and Tiffany vases, as silent-film organ which
well as 20th-century still works (first Sat in
Art-Deco and modern the month, noon).
designs. d Matthikirch- d Tiergartenstr. 1
platz Map L1/2 Map L2 9am5pm TueFri,
10am6pm Tue-Fri, Harlequin Group, c.1740, in the 10am5pm Sat, Sun
11am6pm Sat, Sun Kunstgewerbemuseum Admission charge
(030) 266 2951
CH
Admission charge 8
AU
SS
E E
EE
ASS A SS
ST
STR STR
EN TOR
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NV
Museum fr Naturkunde I
FRIE DRIC HSTR
With over 60 million S

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exhibits, the Natural History
ASSE
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ILL
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Museum is one of the largest Y-

1
NTUNNEL
Friedrichstr.
B R AN D T- ST R .
-
DE
of its kind. A star feature is the S T RA S S E BO TR.
32
- S
DOR OTH EEN
worlds largest dinosaur skele- Tiergarten PARISER UNTER DEN LINDEN
BEBEL
I
ES 17. JUN
FRIE DRIC HST
ton, a brachiosaurus found in STRASSE D

PLATZ
Mitte
PLATZ
E S TR
.
Y I T ZA K- R AB IN
FR A N Z S I SCH
ASSE
B96
Tanzania in 1909. Six further

EBERTSTR
dinosaur skeletons as well as

RAS SE
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many fossils of mussels, birds 7 0 POTSDAMER LEIPZIGER

E PLATZ
and mammals take the visitor AS
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back to prehistoric times. A visit 9 STRASSE

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ST R A
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to the glittering exhibition of

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meteorites and minerals is a spe-

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cial treat for fans of gems and 4 5

DEN
precious stones.
LIN
d Invalidenstr. 43 Map F2 9:30am 6

5pm TueSun Admission charge 750 yards 0 metres 750
Museum fr Naturkunde: www.museum.hu-berlin.de/home.asp 47

Berlins Top 10
Left The Adoration of the Shepherds Centre Cupid Victorious Right Hamburger Bahnhof
Art Galleries
Gemldegalerie
Berlins best art museum,
the Gemldegalerie focuses on
European art of the 13th to 19th
centuries, such as Caravaggios
Cupid Victorious (above), and
works by Drer, Rembrandt and
Rubens (see pp345).
Neue Nationalgalerie
The National Gallerys collec-
tion includes modern German art
and classics of the 20th century. Mao by Warhol, in the Hamburger Bahnhof
It often holds spectacular tempo-
rary exhibitions. d Potsdamer Str. Leibl, Max Liebermann and
50 Map E4 10am6pm TueFri, until Arnold Bcklin. The gallery also
10pm Thu, 11am6pm Sat, Sun has sculptures by Schadow,
Admission charge Rauch and Reinhold Begas.
d Bodestr. 13 Map J5 10am6pm
Alte Nationalgalerie TueSun, until 10pm Thu (030) 20 90 55
The Old National Gallery, 66 Admission charge
built by Friedrich August Stler in
186676 on the Museumsinsel, Hamburger Bahnhof
has been completely restored. A museum of the present
Today it holds a collection of day, the historic Hamburg Sta-
19th-century (and mainly Ger- tion houses modern paintings,
man) paintings, including works installations and multi-media art.
by Adolf von Menzel, Wilhelm One of its highlights is the Erich
Marx Collection,
with works by
Joseph Beuys. Apart
from famous artists
like Andy Warhol,
Jeff Koons and
Robert Rauschen-
berg, it also owns
works by Anselm
Kiefer, Sandro Chiao
and others.
d Invalidenstr. 5051
Map F2 10am6pm
TueFri, 11am6pm Sat,
The Glass of Wine by Jan Vermeer, in Gemldegalerie Sun Admission charge
48 Neue Nationalgalerie: www.smb.spk-berlin.de/nng/s.html

Deutsches Guggenheim
Sponsored by the Deutsche
Bank, the museum hosts tempo-
rary exhibitions, often showing
modern art from the US (see
Berlins Top 10
p113). d Unter den Linden 1315
Map K4 11am8pm daily, till 10pm Thu
Admission charge (free Mon)
Berlinische Galerie
Huge collections of mostly
German, east European and
Russian painters, photographers,
Head of a Faun by Picasso (Berggruen) graphic designers and architects
from the 20th century, such as
Sammlung Berggruen Baselitz, Grosz and Kirchner. d
Heinz Berggruen, born in Alte Jakobstr. 124128 Map G4 (030)
Berlin in 1914, emigrated but 78 90 26 00 Admission charge
returned to Berlin in 1996. His
collection, including works from Brhan-Museum
Picassos blue period, is based A unique collection of Art-
in a historic building by Stler. Nouveau and Art-Deco objects
d Schlossstr. 1 Map B3 10am8pm from around Europe is on display
TueSun Admission charge (free 1st Sun at this small museum. Also an
of the month) exhibition of paintings by Berlin
artists. d Schlossstr. 1a Map B3
Bauhaus-Archiv 10am6pm TueSun Admission charge
Few schools have exer-
cised as much influence on Kupferstichkabinett
20th-century architecture Five centuries of prints
and design as the Bauhaus, and calligraphies, including
founded in 1919 by Walter works by Botticelli, Drer,
Gropius. On show in the Rembrandt, Goya, Daumier
museum are furniture, and the Dutch Old Masters,
sketches, everyday objects are on display in this gallery.
and paintings. d Klingelhfer- d Matthikirchplatz 6 Map L1
str. 14 Map N3 10am5pm Art Deco vase in the 10am6pm TueFri, 11am6pm
WedMon Admission charge Brhan-Museum Sat, Sun Admission charge
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For more on art galleries in the Kulturforum see pp325 49

Berlins Top 10
Left Philosopher G W F Hegel Centre The brothers Grimm Right Conductor von Karajan
Famous Berliners
Marlene Dietrich Bertolt Brecht
The famous filmstar (1901 Born in Augsburg, Bavaria,
92), born in Schneberg, began Bertolt Brecht (18981956) wrote
her career in Berlin in the 1920s. some of his greatest works,
Her breakthrough came with
the film The Blue Angel (1931).
She lies buried in the Friedenau
cemetery in Steglitz. Her person-
al possessions are exhibited in
the Filmmuseum Berlin in the
Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz.
Albert Einstein
In 1914, the physicist Albert
Einstein (18791955) became the Brechts study
director of the Kaiser Wilhelm-
Institute for Physics. He was such as the Threepenny Opera,
awarded the Nobel Prize for in a small apartment in Charlot-
Physics in 1921 for his Theory of tenburg. In the Third Reich, the
Relativity, first developed in playwright emigrated to the US,
1905. Einstein mostly lived and but he returned to Germany after
worked in Potsdam, but stayed World War II and founded the
closely connected with Berlin Berliner Ensemble in East Berlin
through his lectures and teaching in 1949. Until his death, Brecht
activity. In 1933 Einstein, who lived in Chausseestrae in Berlin-
was Jewish, had to emigrate Mitte, with his wife, Helene
from Germany to the USA where Weigel. His renovated apartment
he stayed until his death. has been turned into a museum.
Herbert von Karajan

This famous Austrian con-
ductor (19081989) was head of
the Berlin Philharmonic Orches-
tra from 1954 until 1989. During
this time he helped create the
orchestras unique sound, which
remains legendary until this day.
Herbert von Karajan was both
revered and feared by his musi-
cians because of his genius and
his fiery temperament. Berliners
still refer to the Philharmonie as
Albert Einstein taught in Berlin Circus Karajani.
50
Robert burdened with large numbers of
Koch children, and of social outcasts.
Like few other Her Pieta now adorns the Neue
physicians of Wache (see p13).
his day, Robert
Berlins Top 10
Koch (1843 Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm
1910) laid the The brothers Jacob (1785
foundations and 1863) and Wilhelm (17861859)
shaped the face Grimm are well known around
of modern medi- the world, thanks to their collec-
Robert Koch cine with his tion of classic fairy tales includ-
pioneering dis- ing Little Red Riding Hood and
coveries. The Director of the Hansel and Gretel. Equally
Institute for Infectious Diseases, important, however, was their
Koch also taught and researched linguistic output, the German
at the Charit Hospital. In 1905 Grammar and German Dictionary
he received the Nobel Prize for which are standard reference
Medicine for his discoveries in works even today.
the field of microbiology.
Georg Wilhelm Hegel
Theodor Fontane The influential philosopher
A Huguenot, Fontane Hegel (17701831) taught at
(181998) was one of the Humboldt University from
most important 19th-centu- 1818 until his death.
ry novelists in Germany.
He also worked as a jour- Felix Mendelssohn
nalist for more than 20 Bartholdy
years, penning many of The composer (1809
his articles and essays 47), a grandson of
in the Caf Josty on Moses Mendelssohn,
Potsdamer Platz. was also the conductor
Fontane is particularly of the Staatskapelle (state
well known for his Sculpture by Kollwitz orchestra) at the opera
Walks in the Province house in Unter den Lin-
of Brandenburg, in which he den. His grave is found in one of
describes the mentality of the the cemeteries in front of the
people, historic places and the Hallesches Tor in Kreuzberg.
Brandenburg landscapes.
Kthe Kollwitz
The sculptor and painter
Kthe Kollwitz (18671945) por-
trayed the social problems of the
poor, and her work provides a
powerful, haunting commentary
on human suffering. Kollwitz
spent a large part of her life in a
modest abode in the square that
is now named after her, in the
Prenzlauer Berg district. A monu-
ment recalls how she captured
the lives of poor Berlin families, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy
For moments in history in Berlin see pp 423 51

Berlins Top 10
Left Kudamm Kneipe Centre Strandbar Mitte Right Tables outside Zwiebelfisch
Kneipen (Pubs)
Green Door gather here in jovial mood and
This Berlin classic never are always ready to strike up
goes out of style. A young urban conversation over a glass of
crowd enjoys some of the best Berliner Weie (sour beer with a
drinks and cocktails money can shot of raspberry or woodruff
buy in Germany (the Mojito is a syrup). In the summer, the
particular delight), mingling at pavement serves as a makeshift
the minimalist retro-style bar and extension of the pub.
along the curved, d Auguststr. 49a
green walls. At week- Map G2/3 9am2am
ends, the place is daily (030) 282 77 06
packed to bursting.
Theres an outdoor E & M Leydicke
bell, but the door poli- This slightly dated
cy is pretty liberal as winery is still a big hit
long as you look with tourists as well
sober. d Winterfeldstr. 50 as groups of pupils
Map D4/5 6pm3am and students. Try the
SunThu, 6pm4am Fri, Sat sweetish strawberry
(030) 215 25 15 and raspberry wines.
d Mansteinstr. 4 Map E6
Strandbar Mitte 4pmmidnight daily
One of Berlins At Hackbarths (030) 216 29 73
more unusual pubs.
The Strandbar Mitte was the first Morena-Bar
of a new type of open-air pubs With its walls completely
and cafs which are near canals covered with Spanish tiles, this
or city beaches. In summer, sip bar draws an upmarket Kreuz-
your beer or cocktail and enjoy a berg crowd as well as students
magnificent view of Museum who like to meet here for a beer.
Island. d Monbijoustr. 3 Map G3 At weekends it is full to bursting
10am1am (in summer) and gets livelier by the hour.
(030) 28 38 55 88 d Wiener Str. 60 9pm4am daily
(030) 611 47 16
Hackbarths
Friendly Zum Nubaum
Hackbarths is One of only a few traditional
a corner pub pubs in the historic Nikolaiviertel
frequented by worth checking out, the Nu-
trendy students, baum serves draught beer and
local artists and traditional Berlin food.
tourists. From d Am Nubaum 3 Map K6 from noon
Berliner Weie 6pm, the locals daily (030) 242 30 95
52 Pubs in Berlin: www.kneipen.de

Caf am Neuen See
The only Berlin Kneipe that
is also a caf. The Italian break-
fast is opulent and delicious. In
summer, crowds gather in the
Berlins Top 10
Diener, favoured by actors vast beer garden. Customers
bring their own food to grill and
Zwiebelfisch sit at the long tables, chatting
A classic of the ageing over a local beer. d Tiergarten,
Charlottenburg scene, this is Neuer See, Lichtensteinallee 2 Map M5
where the last survivors of the MarOct: 10am11pm; NovFeb:
1968 generation prop up the bar 10am8pm daily (030) 254 49 30
and reminisce about the great
days of the revolution in West Yva Suite
Berlin. The artists in the photo- This bar and restaurant is
graphs on the walls are all past popular for its superb cocktails
clients, many of them from the and wines, plus its colourful clien-
1968 generation. In the summer, tele mostly actors, film produc-
there are tables outdoors on ers and aspiring writers. The dark
Savignyplatz great for people- wooden floors and naked walls
watching and taking in the scene. are typical for Charlottenburg.
d Savignyplatz 78 Map N3 noon6am d Schlterstr. 52 Map N3 from 6pm
daily (030) 312 73 63 daily (030) 88 72 55 73
Diener-Tattersaal
An atmospheric pub popular
with local actors, serving draught
beers and traditional German and
Austrian fare. The pub bears the
name of Franz Diener, the leg-
endary boxer who knocked out
the erstwhile boxing world cham-
pion, Max Schmeling.
d Grolmanstr. 47 Map P3 6pm3am
daily (030) 881 53 29 Outside at Caf am Neuen See
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For Berlin bars see pp545 53

Berlins Top 10
Left Lola-Lounge Centre The Bar am Ltzowplatz Right The Reingold bar
Bars & Lounges

Newton-Bar Le Bar du Paris Bar
The best cocktails in town Despite its name, the Paris
are mixed at this elegant bar Bar was until quite recently only
in Gendarmenmarkt. Service is a French restaurant. Now this
charming and the fastest in trendy celebrity haunt has its
town, and in summer theres own bar, and although the cock-
even a fold-down bar on the tails are not quite as good as
pavement outside. Heavy leather those of the competition, it is
armchairs make for comfortable easy to forget this when you are
sitting, and the walls are adorned enjoying one of their wonderful
with enlarged photographs of French wines or champagnes.
nudes by Helmut Newton, after d Kantstr. 152 Map N3 from 7pm daily
whom the bar is named. Highly (030) 31 01 50 94
recommended: the Caribbean
and Latin-American cocktails Harrys New York Bar
chin-chin! d Charlottenstr. 57 Map L4 Sip your tropical concoctions
10am3am daily (030) 20 29 54 21 and champagne cocktails while
seated underneath the portraits
of 43 US presidents in this bar,
a sister venue of the famous bar
in Venice. The clientele is more
sedate than in other Berlin bars,
but the ambience is upmarket,
and evening entertainment (jazz
singers and piano) is more styl-
ish than elsewhere. d Grand Hotel
Esplanade, Ltzowufer 15 Map N6
from noon daily (030) 25 47 88 33
In the Newton-Bar
Trompete
Lola-Lounge This trendy bar, which
The new Lola-Lounge is a belongs to the actor Ben Becker,
minimalist designers dream. It has very quickly established
attracts a young, urban and suit- itself as the place to be. The bar,
ably fashionable crowd who with its soft leather armchairs
enjoy the computerized lighting and settees and completely black
system and the laidback lounge walls, is relaxed and comfort-
atmosphere of this bar with a able. At weekends, Trompete
restaurant. Choose from a long hosts live concerts ranging from
list of exotic and delicious cock- jazz and salsa to house.
tails. d Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 17 d Ltzowplatz 9 Map P6 from
Map H2 8pm2am TueThu 6pm ThuSat, from 9pm Sun (030)
(030) 27 59 44 30 23 00 47 94
54
Bar am Galerie Bremer
Ltzowplatz This small bar, person-
For a long time, this was ally designed by Hans
the favourite bar of the Scharoun, is the meeting
beautiful people. It is point for Berlins cultural
Berlins Top 10
now a little quieter than it elite, the lobby doubling
used to be, but this as a highly regarded
Ice-cold Mojito cocktail
venue still boasts the gallery space. Here you
longest bar in Berlin. can enjoy a discussion
The interior is truly astounding, about art while sipping a cool
and the well-dressed barmen drink and listening to excellent
with their white dinner jackets, jazz. d Fasanenstr. 37 Map C5
as well as the outstanding cock- 8pm1am MonSat (030) 881 49 08
tails they mix make this a
must for any visitor. Reingold
d Ltzowplatz 7 Map M6 from 2pm Portraits of 1930s writers
daily (030) 262 68 07 Erika and Klaus Mann adorn the
walls of this bar, which is friend-
Mister Hu lier and more intimate than most
Thanks to its reputation for other bars in Berlin. The cocktails
fine cocktails, the ocean-themed are excellent. d Novalisstr. 11
Mister Hu is one of the most Map F2 7pm4am daily (030) 28 38
popular bars in town. The relaxed 76 76
ambience attracts
students, artists Caf M
and alternative The (in)famous
nighthawks. There Caf M Kneipe
are outdoor tables Expensive but good: the Paris Bar in Schneberg is
in summer. Cock- today even noisier
tails with rum are particularly than it used to be. If you find the
good. And dont ask for Mr Hu rock music too loud, you can
theres no bartender with that always escape to the tables out-
name. d Goltzstr. 39 Map E5 side. d Goltzstr. 33 Map E6
5pm3am SunThu, 5pm4am Fri 8am2am MonThu, from 9am FriSun
(030) 217 21 11 (030) 216 70 92
TO R
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For pubs see pp523 55

Berlins Top 10
Left Deutsches Theater Centre Friedrichstadtpalast Right Inside the Tanztheater in Berlin
Performing Arts Venues

Staatsoper Bernhard Paul direct a varied
Unter den Linden classical cabaret show in the
Both the theatre troupe and the former cinema, which has been
orchestra of the venerable Berlin transformed into an amazingly
Opera now ably directed by beautiful theatre. The shows
Daniel Barenboim enjoy top change three or four times a
reputations. Nowhere else can year, but there is always a mix of
you see so many top stars of acrobatics, comedy and song on
classical music (see pp1215). offer. d Potsdamer Str. 96 Map E5
d Unter den Linden 57 Map K4 Box Office: noon6pm MonFri,
(030) 20 35 45 55 1pm6pm Sat (030) 25 00 88 88
Chamleon-Variet
The lack of technology is
more than made up for with
much wit and ingenuity by the
small, alternative Chamleon
stage. If you are seated in the
front row, you are likely to get
The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra pulled onto the stage.
d Rosenthaler Str. 401, Hackesche Hfe
Philharmonie Map J5 8pm TueSun, midnight per-
Germanys temple of formances Fri, Sat (030) 282 71 18
classical music still presents the
best performers in the world. Bar jeder Vernunft
Designed by Scharoun, the con- This venue, whose name
cert hall has unique acoustics, means devoid of all reason, is
much appreciated by artists and Berlins most popular comedy
audience alike. Concerts by the theatre. The cabaret offers a
Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra humorous and, at times, roman-
are very popular and are often tic programme of songs and
sold out for weeks ahead (see chansons, reviews, cabaret,
pp325). d Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. slapstick and comedy, all
1 Map L2 Box Office: 36pm based in an amazing mirror
MonFri, 11am2pm SatSun tent dating from the 1920s.
(030) 25 48 81 32 Many stars of the interna-
tional and German cabaret
Wintergarten Variet scene can be seen regularly
Berlins largest variety among the performers here:
show relates back to the tra- for example Tim Fischer,
ditions of its famous prede- Georgette Dee, the Pfister
cessor from the 1920s. Every Sisters and Gayle Tufts, as
evening, Andr Heller and Wintergarten well as older stars such as
56 Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra: www.berlin-philharmonic.com

Otto Sander or Brigitte Mira.
d Schaperstr. 24 (car park Freie Volks-
bhne) Map C5 7pm daily
(030) 883 15 82 Theater des Westens
Berlins Top 10
Friedrichstadtpalast
The long-legged dancers in
Friedrichstadtpalast are as popular
today as they were in the 1920s
in their legendary former venue,
which was damaged during World
War II. Long celebrated as the
worlds greatest variety show,
the performances have today
Inside the mirror tent: Bar jeder Vernunft become even more spirited and
entertaining. d Friedrichstr. 107
Deutsches Theater Map J4 Box Office (030) 23 26 23 26
Performances at the German
Theatre, one of the best Ger- Hebbel-Theater
man-language venues, include The Hebbel-Theater has
mainly classic plays in the tradi- attained cult status in Berlin,
tion of Max Reinhardt. Experi- thanks to its modern and varied
mental theatre by young play- programme of concerts, dance
wrights is performed at the DT and song. Top performers from
Baracke. d Schumannstr. 13 Map J3 around the world appear here.
7:30pm daily (030) 28 44 12 25 d Stresemannstr. 29 Map F5 7:30pm
daily (030) 25 90 04 27
Theater des Westens
For two decades, this the- Volksbhne
atre has been producing its own Frank Castorf has trans-
shows, such as La Cage aux formed this former Socialist
Folles, and now shows interna- stage into a theatre, which has
tional guest productions such as become famous for its classy,
Les Misrables and Hair. and at times controversial per-
d Kantstr. 12 Map N4 8pm TueSat, formances. d Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
6pm Sun (01805) 44 44 Map H2 (030) 247 67 72
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Deutsches Theater: www.deutsches-theater.berlin.net 57

Berlins Top 10
Left Toms Bar Centre Faade of the Connection Right The Mann-o-Meter
Gay & Lesbian Attractions

Mann-o-Meter
Berlins best-known advice
centre for gays offers help and
advice of all kinds. Apart from
psychological support in relation
to Aids, safe sex and coming
out, its counsellors offer help in
finding accommodation, give
Christopher Street Day on Kudamm support to those in troubled rela-
tionships and provide legal advice.
Christopher Street Day Mann-o-Meter is also a good
Every summer, Germanys starting point for gay visitors to
largest gay festival, Christopher Berlin who wish to find out abut
Street Day, transforms Berlin into the gay scene and, last but not
a giant street party, with thou- least, the caf is also a good
sands of gays and lesbians place to meet people. d Blowstr.
parading from Kurfrstendamm 106 Map E5 510pm MonFri, 410pm
down the Strae des 17. Juni to Sat, Sun (030) 216 80 08
Siegessule. At night, the party
continues in the citys many gay SchwuZ
clubs and Kneipen. SchwuZ in Kreuzberg is
d Kurfrstendamm, Strae des 17. Juni one of the best venues for gay
Map P3/4 4th parties in Berlin. At week-
weekend in June ends, this is where a young
crowd hangs out, dancing,
Sieges- chatting, drinking and enjoy-
sule ing the entertainment. The
Berlins oldest parties are often themed
and best-selling details can be found in gay
gay newspaper magazines such as Sieges-
is named after sule or Sergej.
the Victory d Mehringdamm 61
Column, Map F5 from 11pm Fri,
Berlins land- Sat (030) 693 70 25
mark. This colourful Admission charge
monthly magazine
includes all sorts of Toms Bar
useful information, One of the tradi-
a round-up of whats tional pubs in Berlin, in
on, small ads and the centre of the citys
interviews from the gay heart in Motz-
citys gay scene. d Free strae, Toms Bar is
in gay cafs and shops Siegessule front covers not for those who are
58
shy and timid; Toms Bar is a ment under the club is a
well-known pick-up joint. Below labyrinth of darkrooms. d Fugger-
the (rather dark and dingy) str. 33 Map D5 from 11pm Fri, Sat
Kneipe is a darkroom. (030) 218 14 32 Admission charge
d Motzstr. 19 Map D5 from 7pm daily
Berlins Top 10
(030) 213 45 70 Caf Berio
A long-time favourite among
Berlins scene, the Caf Berio is
an old-fashioned caf that has
been turned totally gay. In the
summer its terrace is a great
place to have breakfast while
people watching.
d Maaenstr. 7 Map E5
8am1am daily (030) 216 19 46
Inside the Prinz-Eisenherz bookstore Schwules Museum

The small Gay Museum is
Prinz-Eisenherz- situated in Kreuzberg. It docu-
Buchhandlung ments, through temporary exhi-
Germanys oldest openly gay bitions, the high and low points
bookstore stocks the entire of gay and lesbian life since the
range of German and internation- 19th century. Next to the muse-
al gay and lesbian publications. um is an archive, a small library
Its knowledgeable bookshop and a venue for cultural events.
assistants will track down rare d Mehringdamm 61 Map F5 26pm
or out-of-stock titles at your Mon, WedFri, Sun, 27pm Sat (030) 69
request. The bookshop also 59 90 50 Admission charge
hosts frequent literary readings.
d Lietzenburger Str. 9A Map N3 SO 36
10am8pm MonSat (030) 313 99 36 This famous and infamous
dance venue for young gays
Connection has been extremely popular for
Connection is perhaps not many years. The Sunday night
the best, but certainly one of club Caf Fatal is legendary,
the most popular gay discos in when old German chart hits and
Berlin. Late at night, this is dance tunes are played.
where gays mainly from the d Oranienstr. 190 Map H5 from 10pm
scene meet and dance to house Wed, Fri, from 9pm Sat, from 7pm Sun
and techno rhythms. In the base- (030) 61 40 13 06
E B E RT S TR.
Tiergarten Mitte
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Schwules Museum: www.geocities.com/schwulesmuseum/ 59

Berlins Top 10
Left Inside Quartier 206 Centre Food department Galeries Lafayette Right In Winterfeldtplatz
Shops & Markets

Kaufhaus des Westens cutlery and porcelain, books,
(KaDeWe) paintings, clothing and jewellery.
Whatever you are looking for, The traders are professionals and
you will find it here, in Europes demand high prices, but in return
largest tem- you are assured of buying some-
ple of con- thing splendid. With its street
sumption. On artists and buskers, the market
eight floors, is an ideal spot for browsing,
the venerable dawdling and people-watching
KaDeWe (see p85). d Strae des 17. Juni
(department Map M4 10am5pm Sat, Sun
store of the
West) offers Department Store
more than Quartier 206
three million Berlins most recent fashion
products. On store is also the most expensive
its gourmet in town. Here, the man-about-
floor, West town can purchase his Gucci or
Berlins former DKNY ties, while the lady tries
shop win- on Versace or Calvin Klein gear
The KaDeWe dow, you can on three floors in the Friedrich-
choose from stadtpassagen (see p119).
1,800 cheeses, 1,400 breads and d Friedrichstr. 71 Map L4
pastries and 2,000 cold meats. (030) 20 94 62 40 10am8pm MonFri,
The window displays and inner 10am4pm Sat
courtyards are also worth a visit
(see also p170). d Tauentzienstr. Stilwerk
2124 Map D4, P5 (030) 21 21 20 51 Style is writ large in this
trendy shop. Stilwerk is not a
Galeries Lafayette department store, however, but
This small French department a shopping centre, specializing
store specializes in classic in designer furniture, lamps and
womens- and menswear. The
French delicacies on sale in the
food department make many a
heart beat faster, not just those
of Francophiles (see also p119).
Antik- und Flohmarkt

Strae des 17. Juni
Berlins largest art and antiques
market specializes in genuine
antique furnishings and fittings, The famous glass cone at Lafayette
60 Kaufhaus des Westens: www.kadewe.de

porcelain dinner services, figures
and accessories made in the
Berlin factory are also on sale.
d Kurfrstendamm 27 Map P4
(030) 886 72 10 10am7pm MonFri,
Berlins Top 10
10am4pm Sat d Unter den Linden 35
Map F/G3, K3/4 (030) 206 41 50
10am7pm MonFri, 10am5pm Sat
Markt am Winterfeldtplatz
The trendiest and also the
most attractive weekly food and
clothing market in Berlin has
Faade of the Stilwerk shopping centre developed into a hotspot of the
Schneberg crowd. This is the
fittings basically anything good place for meeting up on Saturday
and expensive (see also p85). mornings (see p107).
d Kantstr. 17 Map C4 (030) 31 51 50
10am8pm MonFri, 10am4pm Sat Trkenmarkt am
Maybachufer
Gipsformerei Staatliche Berlins largest weekday Turkish
Museen market lures visitors with its
If you fancy a Schinkel statue for smells and dishes from A thou-
your home or an elegant Pruss- sand-and-one-nights. Bartering is
ian sculpture from the palace expected (see p107). d May-
gardens, youll find moulded bachufer Map H5 noon6:30pm TueFri
plaster reproduction in all shapes
and sizes here. d Sophie-Charlotten- Berliner Antik- und
Str. 1718 Map A3 (030) 326 76 90 Flohmarkt
9am4pm MonFri, till 6pm Wed Numerous antique and junk
shops are hidden underneath
Knigliche Porzellan- the S-Bahn arches at Friedrich-
Manufaktur (KPM) strae Station. Much of it is
Prussias glory and splendour overpriced, but occasionally
to take away traditional KPM you will find a bargain. d Friedrich-
porcelain for your dining table str., S-Bahn arches Map J4 (030) 208
at home. Apart from elegant 26 45 10am6pm WedMon
LE W
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61
Berlins Top 10
Left Love Parade Centre Christopher Street Day Parade Right The Berlin Marathon
Festivals & Fairs

Berliner Filmfestspiele Christopher-Street-Parade
The Berlinale is the only This gay parade openly and
top German film festival, and is brashly celebrates alternative
attended by Hollywood stars and lifestyles. At the end of June, up
German starlets alike. Until 1999, to 500,000 gays and lesbians
the film festival took place all from around the world boister-
around the Zoo-Palast cinema; ously dance, drink and celebrate
today the traditional festival in the streets of Central Berlin
draws thousands of cinema fans (see also p58). d Kurfrstendamm
to the area around Potsdamer and Strae des 17. Juni Map P3/4
Platz. d Filmhaus Potsdamer Platz (030) 23 62 86 32 4th weekend in June
Map L2 (030) 25 92 00 2nd and 3rd
week in February Berliner Festwochen
Classical concerts, exhibi-
tions and events organized
around a particular theme form
the cultural highpoint of the year.
d Various venues September
Lange Nacht der Museen

For one night, entrance to
Zoo-Palast cinema during the Berlinale many of Berlins museums is
free. Many institutions also put
Internationale on special events for that week-
Funkausstellung (IFA) end, and the street artists and
The latest in entertainment tech-
nology from around the world
and high-tech toys for young and
old are on show at the IFA (Inter-
national Broadcasting Exhibition)
in the ICC. d Messe Berlin, ICC Map
A5 (030) 303 80 every 2 years in Aug
Admission charge
Love Parade
Although it has lost some of
its original fun, the largest techno-
party in the world still attracts a
crowd of nearly one million visi-
tors every year to ear-shattering
beats in Tiergarten. d Groer Tier-
garten Map M5/6 (030) 28 46 20
2nd or 3rd weekend in July IFA, ITB and Grne Woche at the Messe
62 Internationale Filmfestspiele Berlin: www.berlinale.de

Sports Highlights
Berlin-Marathon
The most exuberant
marathon in the world attracts
thousands of runners.
Berlins Top 10
d Strae des 17. Juni 2nd or 3rd
Sunday in September
Karneval der Kulturen
Berlin Parade
Inline-skaters from around
sellers entertain the public, who the world meet for blading.
normally wait in long queues. d Strae des 17. Juni June
d Berlin museums (030) 28 39 74 44
last weekends in January and August
Sechstagerennen
The Six Day Race is one
of Berlins most venerable
Grne Woche sports events. d Velodrom
The largest gourmet feast in 1st half of January
the world, Green Week is a tasty
agricultural and gastronomical fair German Open
Top-quality ladies tennis,
for everyone. Nowhere else can usually sold out.
you enjoy a culinary journey d Tennisclub Rot-Wei May
around the world in such a
condensed space. Berliner Neujahrslauf
d Messe Berlin, ICC Map A5 The New Years Day Run is
a race for those who are fit
(030) 303 80 2nd half of January and not afraid of the cold.
Admission charge d Brandenburger Tor Map K3
1st January
Theatertreffen Berlin
Since 1963, the most Internationales
Stadionfest (ISTAF)
interesting theatre productions Germanys biggest
from around Germany have athletics festival.
been performed annually here d Olympiastadion
in Berlin. d Various venues May 1st week in September
Admission charge
DFB-Pokalfinale
Germans soccer Cup Final
Karneval der Kulturen is played to a crowd of 76,000
Multicultural Berlin cele- fans every year.
brates for three days in the d Olympiastadion
colourful Kreuzberg district in a
Deutsches
cheerful street carnival parade. Traberderby
d Kreuzberg Map G/H5/6 Whitsun The derby for professional
trotter races. d Trabrennbahn
Internationale Mariendorf 1st week in August
Tourismusbrse (ITB)
Internationales
The worlds largest tourism fair Reitturnier
offers up-to-date information German show-jumpers meet.
to the general public, often at d Trabrennbahn Mariendorf
elaborately designed stalls. The 3rd week in November
night-time shows put on by
Berliner Motorradtage
many of the exhibiting countries The international meeting
are especially popular. of bikers is a noisy event.
d Messe Berlin Map A5 (030) 303 80 d Kurfrstendamm end March
March Admission charge
Trade Shows and Exhibitions: www.messe-berlin.de 63

Berlins Top 10
Left Filmpark Babelsberg Centre Roller-skating in Berlin Right In Museumsdorf Dppel
Childrens Attractions
Deutsches Museumsdorf Dppel
Technikmuseum A visit to the historical
The technology museum is a giant museum village of Dppel is like
playground for children, excellent time travel back to the Middle
for learning through play. There Ages. Children can watch activi-
are locomotives to clamber over, ties such as sowing, harvesting
windmills to play with and the and feeding (see p91).
exhibition Spektrum, where
older children can conduct their Zoologischer Garten
own physics and chemistry If you are visiting Berlin with
experiments (see p103). children you should not miss out
on the Zoo. Particular favourites
Labyrinth Kindermuseum are the Monkey House (with
Berlins only Museum for baby gorillas and chimpanzees)
Children is particularly suitable and the Baby Zoo, where chil-
for children at the preschool stage dren are allowed to touch and
and in the early school years. feed the young of various animal
Three or four themed exhibitions species (see pp367).
each year deal with subjects in a
child-friendly and entertaining
way for example Snoops and
Detectives. Every exhibition is
interactive, allowing children to
join in and experiment, becoming
independent through their expe-
riences in play. d Osloer Str. 12
16pm TueFri; 16pm Sat; 11am6pm
Sun (030) 49 30 89 01 Admission Giraffe House in the Zoo
charge
Filmpark Babelsberg
Grips-Theater Exciting shoot-outs, a walk-
This famous Berlin theatre on film set with a U-boat, a town
for children and young people on an island and a small town in
has been showing the hit musi- the Wild West are the most pop-
cal Linie 1 for over ten years. The ular attractions at the film park
play, which is best suited to and not just with the children. A
older children and adolescents, tour of the former UFA-Film stu-
tells of the exciting life in the big dios lets visitors look behind the
city, using a U-Bahn line running scenes: children try out make-up
from East to West Berlin as a and costumes and admire the
metaphor. d Altonaer Str. 22 Map D3 sandman, a TV figure popular
Phone for performance times (030) 39 with children in East Germany
74 74 77 Admission charge since 1959. Everywhere in the
64
park you will encounter Domne Dahlem
props and figures from This old manor house,
well-known German films. built in 1680, offers a rare
Special insight into rural life in the
effects are Berlin area 100 years ago.
Berlins Top 10
demonstrat- Next door is a farm with
ed on the visi- animals, fields and a veg-
tors in an imaginative etable garden. This histor-
exhibition. The World of ical farm is very popular,
Horror chills more than not just with city chil-
just childrens spines. dren. A small market cre-
d Grobeerenstr., Potsdam The Sandman in ates a genuinely rural
mid-MarNov: 10am6pm Filmpark Babelsberg atmosphere, and chil-
daily; JulAug: 10am8pm daily dren can try out country
(0331) 721 27 55 Admission charge activities such as sowing and
harvesting for themselves, watch
ZEISS-Groraum- cows being milked and horses
planetarium being shooed, and get close to
Artificial stars, planets and nebu- beehives. d Knigin-Luise-Str. 49
lae take you to far-away galaxies 10am6pm WedMon (030) 832 50 00
under the silvery dome of the Admission charge
Planetarium (see p142).
blub-Badeparadies
After a long day, the ideal
place for resting and reviving
tired childrens feet and legs
and those of their parents is a
visit to the blub Swimming Par-
adise, one of Germanys largest
water parks with water slides,
outdoor pool, saunas and chil-
drens pool. d Buschkrugallee 64
10am11pm daily (030) 609 060
Admission charge At the Domne Dahlem
Berlin-Tegel k
10 9
Puppentheater- 2
E26
Tegeler 2
museum See Wedding
A 111
Spandau Siemensstadt A 10 0 7
The small but excel- Prenzlauer
Berg
9 6a
5
lent and inspirational Charlottenburg 3 2/5 Sp
Tiergarten Mitte r e e
Puppet Museum spe- 2/5
5
2
1
cializes in dolls and Schneberg 1 Kreuzberg
1
Berliner Forst
96
Grunewald
puppets. Children are Berlin-
Tempelhof k
allowed to perform A 10 9Neuklln
51
Dahlem 0
E
their own puppet

15
Havel
0
A1
8
Tempelhof
shows and have a go Steglitz
Zehlendorf 1 17
at being puppet the- Groer 9
Wannsee
96
atre directors. 4
101
d Karl-Marx-Str. 135 Map Teltow

anal
wk
H6 9am4pm MonFri, Babelsberg Te l t o
11am5pm Sun (030) 687 6 Mahlow
81 32 Admission charge 4 2 miles 0 km 2 4
For more on sports & leisure in Berlin see pp689 65

Berlins Top 10
Left Neuer See Centre Landwehrkanal Right The Moby Dick ferry on Wannsee
Lakes, Rivers & Canals

Groer Wannsee Schlachtensee
Wannsee has long been a After Wannsee, Schlachten-
popular destination for Berliners, see is the second most popular
and it is well worth visiting lake in Berlin. The small, elongat-
Strandbad Wannsee. Europes ed lake attracts mainly young
largest inland beach, it attracts people. To avoid the crowds on
some 40,000 visitors a day who the sunbathing lawn right next
sunbathe on its beautifully white, to Schlachtensee S-Bahn station,
artificial beach and swim in the just follow the embankment path
lake. This is also a great place for around to the right. There you
people-watching, and in the sum- will find many small and slightly
mer you will see yachts, wind concealed green spaces perfect
surfers and jet skis. In the mid- for sunseekers. The best time to
dle of the large lake is Pfauen- go is during the week.
insel (Peacock Island), which can d Am Schlachtensee
be reached on the whale-shaped
Moby Dick ferry. Spree River
d Am Groen Wannsee One of Berlins many epi-
thets is that of Athens on the
Teufelssee Spree, so named because of its
The dark green waters of cultural heritage and the slowly
the Devils Lake may conjure up meandering river. In total, the
evil, yet this is actually one of Spree measures 398 km (249
Berlins cleanest lakes. It is also miles), of which 46 km (29 miles)
one of the most relaxed and run through Berlin. Its banks are
easy-going places nudists, gay attractive for rest and recreation,
Berliners and dog lovers enjoy and guided boat tours, romantic
peace and tranquillity on the evening cruises and walks along
reed-covered banks in the middle the riverside are pleasant ways
of the Grunewald woods. to spend the day.
d Teufelsberg, Grunewald d Mitte, Tiergarten Map J/K 16
Groer Mggelsee
Covering 766 ha (1,900
acres), Berlins largest lake is sit-
uated in the far southeast of the
city. Berliners have nicknamed it
the large bathtub a good
description, for thousands of
Berliners congregate here in the
heat of summer for a refreshing
dip. You can also row, sail or surf
on the lake (see p146). Boat trip to the Spree bend
66 Sightseeing Cruises: www.sternundkreis.de

Lietzensee
The Bohemian population of
Charlottenburg considers this
their local lake. It is not suitable
for swimming, but idyllic mead-
Berlins Top 10
ows around the lake are ideally Houseboats on Landwehrkanal
suited for sunbathing and snooz-
ing. The shaded lakeside walks in walk is Greenwich Promenade,
the middle of the city are also from Tegeler Hafen (harbour) to
popular with dog owners. In the Schwarzer Weg. A small, slightly
evening, the few cafs on the hidden lakeside path leads from
east side offer a great view of here to the other side of the lake
the illuminated Funkturm. and to a peninsula. Here stands
d Am Kaiserdamm Map A4 the Villa Borsig, built in 1905 for
a family of industrialists. Today it
Krumme Lanke is owned by a foundation and is
Although Krumme Lanke is closed to the public. If you con-
commonly thought not to be tinue southward along Schwarzer
clean enough for bathing, some Weg, you will get to the Tegeler
people now think otherwise. See lido. d Alt-Tegel
In fact, it seems cleaner
(though also colder) than Neuer See
the water in Schlachtensee. Visitors will be sur-
d Am Fischerhttenweg prised to discover the tran-
quil New Lake in the
Landwehrkanal middle of the city, well
Built in 184550, this hidden at the western
is Berlins oldest artificial end of the vast Groer
waterway. The canal con- Ships bell Tiergarten park. On its
nects the Upper and the banks is the Caf am
Lower Spree, running east to Neuen See (see p101). A boat
west through the western part trip or a walk around the lake is a
of the centre. Take a boat trip pleasant way to while away the
along the canal and you will day. d Groer Tiergarten Map M3
see some of Berlins
most attractive 9
96a
96 Pankow
Tegeler Reinickendorf
bridges. At some See
10 9
places, it is possible Berlin-Tegel k
to lie on the green

E26
Wedding
A 111
Spandau Siemensstadt A 10 0
banks of the canal Prenzlauer
in the middle of the Berg
city, for example at

Olympia- Charlottenburg 5 Mitte 2/5
Stadion Sp r
the Paul-Lincke-Ufer
2 /5 0 Tiergarten ee
6 8
in Kreuzberg. 2 Schneberg
1
d Ltzowplatz Map M/N5 Berliner Forst Kreuzberg

1
96
Grunewald
Tempelhof k
Berlin-
Tegeler See Havel

A 10
0 3
51
E
Dahlem
15
The northern-
A1
most lake in Berlin is

7 Steglitz Tempelhof
al
1 4 1
n
Zehlendorf
situated in an elegant
ka
ow
Groer
residential area. A
101
Wannsee
t
96
Teltow
Tel
particularly attractive 4 2 miles 0 km 2 4
For parks and gardens in Berlin see pp7071 67

Berlins Top 10
Left Inline-Skating in the Tiergarten Centre Trabrennbahn Mariendorf Right At Sport Oase
Sport & Fitness Venues

Olympiastadion Galopprennbahn
The Olympic Stadium is Hoppegarten
worth a visit even if no particular Horse races take place against
sports events are scheduled. the historical backdrop of the
The giant edifice, constructed by Union Club 1867s traditional
Werner Mach for the Olympic race track, considered to be the
Games in 1936, reflects the most attractive track between
architectural style typical of the Moscow and Paris. In the audi-
Nazi period. Two statues by Arno ence, horse- and betting-mad
Breker flank the main entrance. Berliners mingle with the citys
Opposite the 80,000-seater upper classes. d Goetheallee 1,
stadium are the Maifeld, inspired Dahlwitz-Hoppegarten races 2pm Sun
by the architecture of ancient (03342) 389 30
Rome, and a belltower from
where you have fantastic views Trabrennbahn Mariendorf
of Berlin. The stadium itself was Exciting trotting races such
renovated and partially covered as the annual derby for the Blue
in 20004. Berlins premier-league Ribbon take place on the Trab-
football club, Hertha BSC, plays rennbahn in Mariendorf. d Marien-
its home games here. An exhibi- dorfer Damm 222 races 6pm Wed,
tion documents the history of 1:30pm Sun (030) 740 12 12
the stadium (see p84).
Velodrom
This futuristic, silvery sports
arena is the focal point for
Berlins cyclists. Every year in
January, this is where the leg-
endary Sechstagerennen (Six
Day Race) takes place. d Paul-
Heyse-Str. 26 times vary depending
on event (030) 44 30 44 30
Cycling
The large green spaces in
Berlin and Potsdam are ideal
for cycling excursions. Districts
such as the Scheunenviertel or
Dahlem are also well suited for
exploration by bike. There are
several places where you can
hire a bicycle for example, in
the centre at Friedrichstrae
Hertha BSC playing in the Olympiastadion station (see p162).
68 Hertha BSC: www.herthabsc.de

Inline-Skating Tiergarten
The paths and tracks in the
northern half of the Groer
Tiergarten park, as well as
around the perimeters of Strae
Berlins Top 10
des 17 Juni, are excellent for
inline-skating away from the
traffic. Skating in the busy city
streets though practised is
officially forbidden. d Tergarten
Map M5/6
Interior of the Neuklln swimming baths
Fitnessstudio Ars Vitalis
Stadtbad Neuklln Berlins friendliest and most
The most attractive swim- elegant fitness studio follows a
ming baths in Berlin date back to holistic approach to wellbeing.
the late 19th century. These luxu- Visitors can relax, attend classes
riously fitted Art-Nouveau baths on a day ticket or enjoy a mas-
make swimming a rather special sage as well as use the pool and
experience. d Ganghoferstr. 3 sauna. d Hauptstr. 19 Map E6
25pm Mon; 6:45am6:30pm Tue; 8am11:30pm daily (030) 788 35 63
6:45am2pm Wed; 6:45am10pm Thu; Admission charge
6:458am, 12:3010pm Fri; 9am4pm Sat
(030) 68 24 98 12
Sport Oase
This charming badminton
and squash centre is based in a
former Schultheiss brewery. It
has four halls with 23 courts on
several levels; and there is also
a bar. d Stromstr. 1117 Map D3
8am11:30pm MonThu; 9am10pm
FriSun (030) 394 50 94
Relaxing in the Ars Vitalis
Jopp
10 9
Frauenfitness
E26
2
In the western centre Wedding
A 111
Siemensstadt A 10 0
of the city is this 7 Prenzlauer 4
Berg
Fitness Centre for
9 6a
Women, which guaran- 1 Tiergarten 2/5

Mitte
Sp
re
1/ 5 2
tees a relaxed and 2/5 Charlottenburg 59 e Friedrichs-
Berliner 8 1 hain
cheerful atmosphere Kreuzberg
1
Forst Schneberg
96
Grunewald
for exercise on stan- Berlin-
dard equipment as well Tempelhof k 6
51
0 A 10
E
0
15
as many classes, away Neuklln

A1
Dahlem
from prying eyes. The Steglitz
Tempelhof
staff are very helpful. Zehlendorf 1 17
9
d Tauentzienstr. 13
96
Map P5 7am11pm
101
MonFri, 10am8pm Sat, Teltow 3

Sun (030) 21 01 11 3 miles 0 km 3
For parks and gardens in Berlin see pp7071 69

Berlins Top 10
Left Britzer Schloss and Park Centre Neuer See Right Schlosspark Charlottenburg
Parks & Gardens

Groer Tiergarten Grunewald and
Tiergarten the green lungs Teufelsberg
of Berlin is the most famous The Grunewald, or green
park in the city. It covers an forest as the public woods in
area of 203 ha (500 acres) the southwest of Berlin were
and is situated right in the known originally, is the least
centre of town. Originally built-up area of woodland in
designed, in 183340, by the city. Parts of Grunewald
Peter Joseph Lenn as a are very quiet and isolated
hunting estate for the indeed, and there are even
Elector, in the latter half of wild boar in the woods
the 19th century the park which can be a nuisance to
became a recreation ground people who have gardens
for all Berliners. Today it in the nearby district of
attracts a happy crowd of Zehlendorf. Grunewald is
cyclists, joggers, sun- excellent for hiking and
bathers and Turkish families horse-riding. d Grunewald
having barbecues, especially
at weekends. Pfaueninsel
d Tiergarten Map M5/6 Peacock Island, an
Statue of Luise on island in the middle of
Schlosspark Pfaueninsel Wannsee that can be
Charlottenburg reached only by ferry, is
The Palace Park is one of the probably the most romantic spot
most attractive and charming in Berlin. In the 19th century, the
green spaces in Germany. island served as a love nest for
Immediately behind Schloss King Friedrich Wilhelm II. His
Charlottenburg is a small but charming folly of a palace ruin
magnificent Baroque garden, and was in keeping with the tastes
beyond this extends a vast park, of the time. Today dozens of
dating back to the early 19th cen- proud peacocks live in the area
tury. It was landscaped in the around the building (see p89).
English style and boasts artificial
lake and river landscapes, small Botanischer Garten
hidden buildings and idyllic shad- The 19th-century Botanical
ed groves on the banks of ponds Garden is a paradise of flowers
and streams. The park is ideally and plants in the centre of town.
suited for strolling, and it is also The vast area with 15 green-
a favourite place for sunseekers houses was built in the late 19th
(see also pp2831). century around gentle hills and
d Schloss Charlottenburg, Spandauer picturesque ponds. In the Great
Damm Map A/B3 from sunrise to Palm House by Alfred Koerner
sunset daily you can see spectacular orchids
70 Botanischer Garten: www.bgbm.fu-berlin.de

and giant Victoria water lilies, Volkspark Friedrichshain
reaching a diameter of over 2 m The oldest park in Berlin
(6 ft). The museum introduces (1840) is an artificial landscape
visitors to the world of micro- of lakes and meadows and two
biology. d Unter den Eichen 510 heaps of rubble, one of which is
Berlins Top 10
(garden), Knigin-Luise-Str. 6 (museum) jokingly called Mount Klamott,
9am to sunset daily (garden); 10am6pm meaning Mount Rubble. There
daily (museum) (030) 83 85 01 00 is also a fairy-tale fountain with
Admission charge statues of the most popular fairy
tale characters (see pp1467).
Tierpark Friedrichsfelde
This second, smaller zoo is
situated in the idyllic palace park
of Friedrichsfelde. Some 950
animal species live in the park;
the lions are particularly worth
seeing (see p147).
Treptower Park
The 19th-century landscape
garden on the banks of the Spree
has become famous for the Sovi-
Flowering hibiscus in Botanischer Garten et Memorial, which stands next
to the graves of 5,000 Red Army
Viktoriapark and soldiers (see p146).
Kreuzberg
The old municipal park, originally Britzer Schloss and Park
designed in 188894 as a recre- The Palace in Britz, dating
ation area for local workers, is from 1706, has been furnished
today one of Berlins most popu- with historical furniture from the
lar green spaces. The meadows Grnderzeit (after 1871). It is
around Kreuzberg, which rises to situated in a lovely park that
30 m (98 ft), are great for sun- invites visitors for a rest.
bathing. On top of the mountain, d Alt-Britz 73 25:30pm Wed (guided
a monument recalls the Prussian tours of the palace), 9am to sunset daily
Wars of Liberation (see p105). (garden) Admission charge
Wedding
A 111
Spandau A 10 0
2
Siemensstadt Prenzlauer
96
Berg
a
5 7 Marzahn
2 2/5 Sp
2/5 Charlottenburg
1
Tiergarten
Mitte re
e Friedrichs-
hain 1/5
2
1
Lichtenberg 8
3 Schneberg
Kreuzberg
9
96
1
Berliner Forst
Grunewald 6
A
k Berlin-
Tempelhof
10 0
51
Neuklln Kpenick
E
15
Havel Dahlem
A1
Sp r e e
5 Steglitz Tempelhof Treptow
Groer l
Wannsee 1
0
na
Zehlendorf
17
ka
4
96
ow
96
a
t
Te l
101
Teltow
6 3 miles 0 km 3 6
For waterside recreation grounds see pp667 71

Berlins Top 10
Left Brandenburger Hof Centre Inside the Bristol Kempinski Right Lobby of the Regent Berlin
Famous Hotels
spacious rooms overlook the
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz, but if this
is too mundane for you, you can
always enjoy the fantastic views
of the entire city from the hotels
Olympus Wellness-Club.
d Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2
Map F4 (030) 25 53 12 34
Inside the famous Hotel Adlon www.hyatt.com
Hotel Adlon Berlin Schlosshotel im

Berlins top hotel ranks as Grunewald
one of the finest in Europe. A This small and very expensive
reconstruction of the historic palace hotel is situated in a quiet
Adlon hotel, it opened in 1997 part of Grunewald, some dis-
and has become popular with tance from the centre. The hotel
celebrities and politicians from is popular with filmstars and
around the globe. Even if you celebrities wishing to get away
are not going to stay here, you from the crowds. Karl Lagerfeld
could have a cup of tea or coffee designed the interior and for a
in the magnificent lobby. mere 1,500 you can even rent
d Unter den Linden 77 Map K3 (030) his permanent bedroom suite for
226 10 www.hotel-adlon.de one night. d Brahmsstr. 10 (030) 89
58 40 www.schlosshotel.com
Regent Berlin
Concealed behind the Kempinski Hotel
ultra-modern faade of this Bristol Berlin
hotel is a late 19th-century The grand old lady of West
building with thick carpets, Berlin hotels, the Kempins-
sparkling chandeliers and ki is beginning to show her
tasteful wallpaper. Com- age, but the glamour is still
fort of an international there and no hotel in town
standard and discreet is better. All the rooms are
service are guaranteed. furnished with a timeless
d Charlottenstr. 49 Map K4 elegance, while the lobby
(030) 203 38 www. and bar are panelled in dark
theregentberlin.com wood. In the Kempinski-Grill
you can enjoy a glass of Sekt
Grand Hyatt right on the Kudamm while
Japanese minimalism is watching less fortunate mor-
the style that was chosen tals. d Kurfrstendamm 27
for this new building on Map P4 (030) 88 43 40 www.
Potsdamer Platz. The Regent Berlin porter kempinskiberlin.de
72 Online reservation service: www.berlin.nethotels.com

Hackescher Markt Dorint Hotel am
One of Berlins best hotels, Gendarmenmarkt
the charming Hackescher Markt, A quiet and elegant hotel with
is situated right in the popular great views over the historic
Mitte district. Service and fur- square, the relatively small
Berlins Top 10
nishings are of a four-star stan- Dorint has real style and offers
dard, yet the prices are moder- excellent service. All the rooms
ate. Best of all is the hotels cen- are first-class and feature elegant
tral location in one of Berlins furnishings (see p179).
liveliest areas: it is only a few
steps away from the Hackesche Savoy Hotel
Hfe and the Scheunenviertel. Greta Garbo used to stay at
d Groe Prsidentenstr. 8 the Savoy, and the style of days
Map J5 (030) 28 00 30 gone by is celebrated through-
www.hackescher-markt.de out. Many filmstars are regulars
in this hotel, which is justly
Ritz-Carlton Berlin proud of its service. The Savoy
The new Ritz-Carlton Berlin is famous for its Times Bar.
near Potsdamer Platz is an ultra- d Fasanenstr. 910 Map N4 (030) 31
luxurious gem hidden behind a 10 30 www.hotel-savoy.com
modern faade reminiscent
of New Yorks Rockefeller Brandenburger Hof
Center. The lobby with its An elegant town
marble columns and tons hotel, based in a 19th-
of gold leaf is a stunning century manor house.
setting for the Curtain Club The lobby is traditionally
and the Desbrosses furnished and the rooms
brasserie. Its rooms are are in a sobre Bauhaus-
sumptuously decorated, all style. The Michelin-
decorated to Prussian Neo- starred Quadriga
Classical designs there are restaurant specializes
even telescopes to enjoy in French cuisine.
the cityscape. d Potsdamer d Eislebener Str. 14 Map P4
Str. 3 Map F4 (030) 33 77 77 (030) 21 40 50 www.
www.ritzcarlton.com Ritz-Carlton Berlin brandenburger-hof.com
FRIEDRICH
T
ABI
ALT-
MO
6
R.
ST
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S p re
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TR.
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W
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28
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STR
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DES 17.
R.
STRASSE 1 SI CH E S
T R.
M ARCH
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F RAN
Mitte
STRASSE
JUNI
R. EN
DES 17.
S TR A S S
STRASSE
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ST AUD
Tiergarten
HOFJGER
R
- R A B IN
RT
ALLEE
RO
GE
7
NE S STR
S
UE .
LEIPZIGER
-
POTSDAMER
HA
Diplomatenviertel
-
RD Bahnhof
EN
Zoologischer SS
E PLATZ
WILH
INE
BE
RG
S T RA
9 3
ASS -HE
ST Garten SSE
R. KOCHSTRA
ELM
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LUTZOW OR
S T RA
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MA
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5 R S E U STR
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RAS
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Schneberg Kreuzberg
N ACHO
DS T .
ANS
TRAS
SE
4 2 1 miles 0 km 1 2
For hotel price categories see p173 73

Berlins Top 10
Left Inside First Floor Centre Outdoor tables at Lutter & Wegner Right The super-trendy Vau
Best Places to Eat

Vau Bocca di Bacco
The best of international and Berlins hippest Italian
Austrian cooking is served by restaurant offers fresh fish and
Kolja Kleeberg at the stylishly exceptional meat creations such
designed Vau. The restaurant has as Bresaola di Cavallo (horse-
been awarded a well-deserved meat with salad and nuts). d
Michelin star (see p121). d Jger- Friedrichstr. 1678 Map K4 noon
str. 5455 Map L4 noon2:30pm, midnight daily (030) 20 67 28 28
710:30pm MonSat (030) 202 97 30
Borchardt
Vox Everyone of importance,
The exquisite food in this including the Chancellor himself,
minimalist, elegant hotel restau- dines at Borchardt. The historic
rant is a sleek and modern room is furnished in Wilhelmin-
fusion of Asian and international ian style (featuring tall columns,
dishes, with an emphasis on wall mosaics and tile flooring)
Japanese (sushi) dishes and an appropriate setting for the
French-Italian creations. The classic French cooking. Without
show kitchen was one of the a reservation, however, even top
first in Berlin. Open for break- politicians cant get a table (see
fast. d Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2 Map p121). d Franzsische Str. 47 Map K4
F4 611pm TueSat (030) 20 61 05 48 11:30am1am daily (030) 81 88 62 62
Margaux First Floor

A newcomer among the gas- This top gourmet restaurant,
tronomical stars, the Margaux is specializing in the creation of
Berlins most elegant restaurant, new German dishes, is a well-
popular with celebrities guarded secret. The menu fea-
as well as food-lovers tures traditional Berlin
who enjoy its French or fare such as Eisbein mit
German nouvelle cui- Sauerkraut (pork knuck-
sine and its successful le with sauerkraut) as
new interpretations of well as new creations
classic dishes. Michael using fish, langoustines
Hoffmann, the chef, is and truffles. The spe-
particularly renowned cials of the day are
for his fish and seafood more moderately
dishes. The wine list priced. Book in advance.
includes over 800 top d Hotel Palace, Budapester
wines (see p121). d Str. 42 Map N5 noon
Unter den Linden 78 Map K3 2:30pm and from 6pm Sun
noon2:30pm, 710:30pm Fri, only from 6pm Sat
TueSat (030) 22 65 26 11 Inside the Margaux (030) 25 02 10 20
74
the place where sparkling wine,
or sekt, was invented), Austrian
cuisine is the star. Try the best
wiener schnitzel in town, accom-
panied by a classic warm potato
Berlins Top 10
salad, at consistently low prices.
In the summer, there are tables
The popular Borchardt restaurant outdoors. d Charlottenstr. 56 Map L4
noon2am daily (030) 202 95 417
Seasons
This elegant dining room Ana e Bruno
with an open fireplace provides Ana e Brunos is one of the
an enjoyable setting for a meal. best restaurants in Berlin, and
The kitchen specializes in French- certainly serves the best Italian
inspired and vegetarian dishes food in the city. Dont be shocked
(see p121). d St Regent Berlin, when you see the menu: the
Charlottenstr. 49 Map K4 6:30am numbers refer to the calories in
10:30am, noon2pm, 6pm10:30pm daily a dish rather than to the price
(030) 20 33 63 63 although these are also at the top
end (see p87). d Sophie-Charlotten-
Facil Str. 101 Map A3 6:30pm10:30pm
This Michelin-starred restau- TueSat (030) 325 71 10
rant, in a green oasis on top of
the Madison hotel, is a study in
understated elegance. Chef
Michael Kempf creates stylish
Mediterranean dishes with a
French accent (see p101). d
Potsdamer Str. 3 Map L2 113pm,
7midnight MonFri (030) 59 005 12 34
Lutter & Wegner

Gendarmenmarkt
In this old building, formerly the
Berliner Sektkellerei (supposedly At Ana e Brunos
FRIEDRICH
T
ABI
MO
ALT-
R.
ST
ST
ALT-M Bahnhof
S p re
RA S
LEV OABIT
RA SS E
TR.
ET e Alexanderplatz

W
ZO ILL
S I NGS
T-
.
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Friedrichstr.
STR
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PA UL ST
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AS NE R.
L IN
SE
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Hansaviertel BK ST
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SP TR.
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57
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PARISER
STR
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R. DES 17. PLATZ T R.
STRASSE SI CH E S
M ARCH
8 Z S
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F RAN
STRASSE
JUNI
91
R. EN
0 DES 17.
STRASS
STRASSE Mitte
E B ER T S T R .
ST AUD
Tiergarten
HOFJGER
4
R
-RA B
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ALLEE
RO
GE
NE S STR
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IN -
POTSDAMER LEIPZIGER
HA
Diplomatenviertel
-
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EN
Zoologischer SS
E
2 PLATZ
WILH
BE
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S T RA
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6
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PLATZ TA
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2 1 miles 0 km 1 2
For restaurants in Berlin districts see pp87, 93, 101, 109, 121 75
AROUND
TOWN
Charlottenburg &
Spandau
BERLINS TOP 10
7887
Grunewald &
Dahlem
8893
Tiergarten &
Federal District
96101
Kreuzberg &
Schneberg
102109
Central Berlin:
Unter den Linden
112121
Central Berlin:
Scheunenviertel
122129
Central Berlin:
Around Alexanderplatz
130137
Prenzlauer Berg
138143
Berlins
Southeast
144149
Potsdam &
Sanssouci
152157
Around Town Charlottenburg & Spandau
Left On Savignyplatz Centre Front door in Charlottenburg Right On Breitscheidplatz
Charlottenburg & Spandau
C HARLOTTENBURG IS THE ESSENCE OF BERLIN. Here, the capital is more

urbane and more cosmopolitan, more bohemian and more elegant than
anywhere else. The historical streets off Kudamm feature small cafs, restau-
rants, art galleries and boutiques, based in stout residential houses from the
beginning of the 20th century. These streets and Charlottenburgs proud
town hall remind us that this district was once the richest town in Prussia,
which was only incorporated into the city of Berlin in 1920. Spandau, on the
other hand, is rural in comparison, a part of Berlin with a special feel.
Spandaus Late Medieval old town and the citadel make this district on the
other side of the Spree and Havel seem like a small independent town.
Sights
1 Kurfrstendamm 6 Savignyplatz
2 Schloss Charlottenburg 7 Fasanenstrae
3 Zoologischer Garten 8 Funkturm and
Messegelnde
4 Zitadelle Spandau
5 Spandau Old Town 9 Newton-Sammlung
0 Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum
Prussian Eagle in Spandau
E26
Schlosspark Spandau 4 Siemensstadt

A111
STAD
A100
s 5 u Zitadelle
SOPHI
2
TRIN
E-
Spandau
Moabit
RDAMM
SPANDAUE
G
@ 2/5
s Westend 2/5
K NI GIN
ASSE
CHARL
KAISER-
Charlottenburg
RSTR
- E LISA BETH
Luisen-
OTTEN
Kirchhof II
E5
Havel
SOO
15
A1
-
FFST RASS E ZILLESTR.

KNO BELS DOR 2 miles 0 km 2
SCHL OSS
STR.
FRIEDRICH-
Sophie-
STR.
Charlotte- u STRASSE
Kaiserdamm BISMARCK
u
STR.
Platz
WI LM ER
M
KA ISE R D A M
Charlottenburg Zoologischer
W IN D S
.
STR Bahnhof
9 Garten
ST RASSE
SD OR FE
DT GOETHESTRASSE
Zoologischer Garten
c
UN Lietzensee H
3
SSE
CH EID
AR
STR.
M
s Witzleben
UHL AND STR.
D
s@
ST ENB
AM
Wilmersdorfer
R
T RA
RA ER
Str. SAVIGNY- SS G-
KANTSTRASSE
S TRA
SED
E
@u
PLATZ
u
SS
KANTSTRA
SSE
6
RE
MES
S SE
s Zoologischer
UA
8 Charlottenburg s
DERN
Garten
S
ST RA S S E
KNES EBEC K-
Savignyplatz BREITSCHEID
7 u
BU R
SE
LEW
AS SE MOMMSEN- PLATZ
LEIB NIZS TR.
GSTRASS ESTR RAS STRASSE

E RNN SST
IS H
R.
Kurfrsten-
INU
u
FAS ANE NST
V
1
DRO YSEN STR.
GER
AM
damm
0
ST R
AMM Uhlandstr.
END
u
FRIED RICH STR.
RST
.
KURF
STR ASS E
Adenauerplatz
@ LIET ZEN BUR
GER
WILHE LM-
GEOR G-
STRAS SE
1 miles 0 km 1
78
Kurfrstendamm a prison in the 19th century. At
The famous Berlin boulevard, the time, Berliners used to say,
the pride of Charlottenburg, is off to the Julio, when they sent
today more elegant than ever criminals to prison. Later the
(see pp245). imperial war treasures were kept

here the reparations
Schloss paid by France to the
Charlottenburg German Empire after its
The Baroque and Eng- defeat in the Franco-
lish-style gardens of this Prussian War of 18701.
Hohenzollern summer The Bastion Knigin
residence are ideal for houses a museum of
a stroll (see pp2831). municipal history. d Am
d Spandauer Damm Map Juliusturm 9am5pm TueFri,
A/B3 opening hours see 10am5pm Sat, Sun (030) 354
p28 (030) 20 90 55 66 944 200 Admission charge
Admission charge
Inside Nikolaikirche, Spandau
Zoologischer Spandau Old Town Old Town
Garten When walking around
Germanys largest and oldest Spandau Old Town, it is easy to
zoological garden is a must for forget that you are still in Berlin.
all families on a visit to Berlin Narrow alleyways and nooks and
(see pp3637). crannies around Nikolaikirche are
lined by Late Medieval houses, a
Zitadelle Spandau sign that Spandau was founded
The only surviving fortress in in 1197 and is thus older than
Berlin, the citadel, at the conflu- Berlin itself. Berlins oldest
ence of the Havel and Spree house, the Gothic House, dating
Rivers, is strategically well back to the early 16th century,
placed. The star-shaped moated stands here, in Breite Strae 32.
fortress, built in 1560 by Fran- d Breite Strae, Spandau
cesco Chiaramella da Gandino,
was modelled on similar build- Spandau and Berlin
ings in Italy. Its four powerful
West Berliners consider the
corner bastions, named Bran- Spandauers to be rather different
denburg, Knig (king), Knigin sorts of people, provincial and
(queen) and Kronprinz (crown rough, and not real Berliners at
prince) are especially remark- all. But the Spandauers can reas-
able. A fortress stood on the sure themselves that Spandau is
same site as early as the 12th 60 years older than Berlin, and
century, of which the Juliusturm proudly point to their independent
history. The mutual mistrust is not
survives a keep that served as
just a consequence of Spandaus
geographical location, isolated
from the remainder of the city by
the Havel and Spree Rivers. It is
also due to the recent incorpora-
tion of Spandau in 1920. Today,
still, Spandauers say they are
going to Berlin, even though the
centre of the city is only a few
stops away on the U-Bahn.
Zitadelle Spandau
Spandau: www.Berlin.de/ba-spandau/index.html 79
Left A plaque in Savignyplatz Centre Literaturhaus Fasanenstrae Right Villa Grisebach
Savignyplatz most attractive streets in Charlot-

One of Berlins most attrac- tenburg Knesebeck-, Schlter-
tive squares is right in the heart and Goethestrae. This is still a
of Charlottenburg. thriving Charlottenburg
Savignyplatz, named community; the small
after a 19th-century shops, numerous book-
German legal scholar, is stores, cafs and spe-
the focal point of Char- cialist retailers are
lottenburgs reputation always busy, especially
as a district for artists on Saturdays. South of
and intellectuals and as the square, the red-tiled
a trendy residential area S-Bahn arches also lure
for dining out and visitors with their
entertainment. The shops, cafs and bars;
square has two green most of all the Savigny-
spaces, either side of passage near Bleibtreu-
Kantstrae. It was built strae and the small
in the 1920s as part Balconies in Savignyplatz passageway between
of an effort to create Grolman- and Uhland-
parks in the centre of town. strae on the opposite side of
Small paths, benches and pergo- the square.
las make it a pleasant place for d An der Kantstrae Map N3
a rest. Dotted all around Savigny-
platz are restaurants, street cafs Fasanenstrae
and shops, especially in Grol- This elegant street is the
man-, Knesebeck-, and Carmer- most attractive and trendiest
strae, all three of which cross street off Kudamm. Designer
the square. Many a reveller has shops, galleries and restaurants
lost his way here after a nights are tucked away here, a shop-
celebrating, which is why the pers paradise for all those who
area is jokingly known as the regard Kurfrs-
Savignydreieck (the Savigny tendamm as
Triangle). North of Savignyplatz it a mere retail
is worth exploring some of the strip catering
for the mass-
es. The junc-
tion of Fasa-
nenstrae and
Kudamm is
one of the
liveliest spots
in Berlin. One
of the best The Jewish House,
Statue in Savignyplatz known places in Fasanenstrae
80
A Day in
Charlottenburg
Morning
Begin your tour of Charlot-

tenburg at Breitscheidplatz
Kempinski Hotel Bristol Berlin, Fasanenstrae and stroll down Kurfrs-
tendamm (see pp245) in
a westerly direction. Turn
is the Bristol Berlin Kempinski left into Fasanenstrae to
(see p72) at the northern end of visit the Kthe-Kollwitz-
Fasanenstrae. The Lbbecke & Museum (see p83) and to
Co bank opposite cleverly com- see the Literaturhaus.
You could stop for a mid-
bines a historic building with a
morning breakfast at Caf
new structure. Next to it are the Wintergarten (see p86) in
Jdisches Gemeindehaus (Jew- the Literaturhaus, before
ish Community House, see p84) going back up Fasanen-
and a little farther along, at the strae in a northerly direc-
tion. On the left you will
junction with Kantstrae, is the
pass the Kempinski Hotel
Kant-Dreieck (see p41). Berliner Bristol Berlin, and on the
Brse (stock exchange), based in right you can see the
the ultra-modern Ludwig-Erhard- Jewish House and the
Haus (see p40), is just above, at Ludwig-Erhard-Haus. Diag-
onally opposite, on the
the corner of Hardenbergstrae.
other side of Kantstrae,
The southern end of the street is stands the Theater des
dominated by residential villas, Westens (see p57). Con-
some of which may seem a little tinue along Kantstrae on
pompous, as well as the Litera- the left side until you
reach the shopping centre
turhaus, Villa Grisebach, one of
Stilwerk (see pp6061), a
the oldest art auction houses in place no one has ever
Berlin, and the Kthe-Kollwitz- been known to leave
Museum (see p83). There are without buying something!
also some very expensive fash-
Afternoon
ion stores here, as well as a few
A good place for lunch is
cosy restaurants. At its southern the restaurant Soultrane
end, the street leads to pictur- (see p87) in Stilwerk shop-
esque Fasanenplatz, where many ping centre. Afterwards,
artists lived before 1933. continue along Kantstrae
d Charlottenburg Map N/P4 to Savignyplatz. Now
explore the small streets
around the square, Grol-
man-, Carmer-, Knesebeck-
and Mommsenstrae.
Small shops invite you to
browse and spend your
money, and the Caf
Savigny (see p86) is a
good place for a fruit flan
with whipped cream and a
cup of coffee. For the
early evening, Schell (see
p87) is recommended;
here you could try fresh
pike-perch or one of the
Mediterranean dishes.
Shops in Fasanenstrae
Kudamm: www.kurfuerstendamm.de 81
The History of
Charlottenburg
The magnificent Charlottenburger
Rathaus (town hall) on
Otto-Suhr-Allee is a reminder of
the time when this district of

200,000 people was an
independent town.
Charlottenburg, named after the
eponymous palace, arose in 1705
from the medieval settlement of
Ehrenhalle in the Messegelnde Lietzow. Towards the end of the
19th century, Charlottenburg
Funkturm and then Prussias wealthiest town
Messegelnde enjoyed a meteoric rise following
The 150-m (492-ft) high Funkturm the construction of the
(TV tower), reminiscent of the Westend colony of villas and of
Eiffel Tower in Paris, is one of the Kurfrstendamm. Thanks to its
numerous theatres, the opera
landmarks of Berlin that can be
and the Technical University,
seen from afar. Built in 1924 to the district developed into
plans by Heinrich Straumer, it Berlins west end during
served as an aerial and as an air- the 1920s.
traffic control tower. The viewing
platform at 125 m (410 ft) pro-
vides magnificent views, while east is the Hall of Honour built
the restaurant, situated at 55 m to designs by Richard Ermisch in
(180 ft), overlooks the oldest part 1936, in the colossal Fascist
of the complex, the exhibition architectural style.
centre and the surrounding pavil- On the opposite side rises the
lions. The giant building in the shiny silver ICC, the International
Congress Centrum, built in 19759
by Ralf Schler and Ursulina
Schler-Witte. It is still consid-
ered one of the most advanced
conference centres in the world,
with 80 rooms for more than
5,000 visitors. Berlins vast exhi-
bition grounds are among the
largest in the world, covering an
area of 160,000 sq m (40 acres).
These play host to, among oth-
ers, Grne Woche (green week,
an agricultural fair), Internationale
Tourismusbrse (international
tourism fair) and Internationale
Funkausstellung (international TV
fair). d Messedamm 22 Map A4/5
11am9pm Mon, 10am11pm TueSun
(030) 30 38 29 96 Admission charge
Newton Sammlung
Helmut Newton (19312004),
The Berliner Funkturm the world famous photographer,
82
has finally returned to his home A Day in Spandau
city. This new museum presents
his complete works and centres Morning
on two shows called Sex and Start with a journey on the
Landscapes and Us and Them, U-Bahn. From the centre

which show his early fashion and of town, take a U2 train in
the direction of Ruhleben,
nude photography as well as pho-
and at Bismarckstrae sta-
tos of the famous, rich and beauti- tion change to the U7 train
ful since 1947. d Jebensstr. 2 Map in the direction of Rathaus
C4 10am6pm TueWed; 10am6pm Spandau. Ten minutes later
FriSun; 10am10pm Thu (030) 20 90 55 you will have reached the
centre of Spandau Old
66 Admission charge
Town (see p79), where
you can visit Breite Strae
Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum and Nikolaikirche.
The museum is dedicated
to the work of the Berlin artist Before returning to
Charlottenburg, make sure
Kthe Kollwitz (18971945), who
you visit the Zitadelle
documented the misery of Spandau. There, in the
workers lives in 1920s Berlin in museum caf, you can
numerous prints, graphics and also enjoy a late breakfast.
sketches. After losing a son and a Return by U-Bahn. This
time, get off the train at
grandson in World War I, she con-
the Wilmersdorfer Strae
centrated on the themes of war station, one of the few
and motherhood. The museum pedestrianized areas in
holds some 200 of her works, Berlin. This is a particularly
including several self-portraits. good area for shopaholics
and bargain hunters.
d Fasanenstr. 24 Map P4
11am6pm WedMon (030) 882 52 10 Afternoon
Admission charge
From Wilmersdorfer
Strae a 20-minute walk
along Kaiserdamm in a
westerly direction will
take you to the Funkturm
and the Messegelnde
with the Ehrenhalle.
You could have lunch at
the Funkturm-Restaurant,
and enjoy the magnificent
views. Nearby, the Haus
des Rundfunks (broadcast-
ing house) and the Georg-
Kolbe-Museum (see p84)
are worth visiting.
After your museum visit, if
you still have some time
and energy, you could take
bus No. 218 from here to
the Olympiastadion
(see p68). In the evening,
return to Charlottenburg
and Savignyplatz by bus
No. 149. Here you can
enjoy the justly famed,
delicious Franconian cook-
ing at Florians (see p87).
Mother and Child by Kthe Kollwitz
Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum: www.kaethe-kollwitz.de 83
Left In the Deutsche Oper Centre Denkmal Benno Ohnesorg Right In the Theater des Westens
Best of the Rest

Olympiastadion Deutsche Oper
Built for the 1936 Olympic The German Opera, opened
Games, the stadium is an exam- in 1961, specializes in Italian and
ple of Fascist architecture (see German classics.
p68). d Olympischer Platz AprOct: d Bismarckstr. 3437 Map B4 (030)
10am6pm WedSun (030) 25 46 900 341 02 49 Admission charge
Georg-Kolbe-Museum Denkmal Benno Ohnesorg

Sculptures by Georg Kolbe Alfred Hrdlickas sculpture
(18771947) are exhibited in his from 1971 commemorates the
home and workshop. d Sensburger student Benno Ohnesorg, who
Allee 25 10am5pm TueSun (030) 304 was shot dead here during a
21 44 Admission charge demonstration on 2 April 1967.
d Bismarckstr. Map B4
Le-Corbusier-Haus
The apartment block where Technische Universitt
the French architect Corbusier Berlins Technical University
lived was built for the 1957 Inter- was founded in 1879.
bau trade fair. Designed to allevi- d Strae des 17. Juni Map C4
ate the acute housing shortage 8am8pm MonFri (030) 31 40
after World War II, it was highly
innovative in its day. d Flatowallee 16 Universitt der Knste
The School of Art is one of
Jdisches Gemeindehaus the best German universities for
Berlins Jewish community the fine arts, architecture and
house stands on the site of the design. d Hardenbergstr. 3233 Map
Charlottenburg synagogue. Dam- N4 8am8pm MonFri (030) 318 50
aged during Reichskristallnacht
on 9 November 1938, it was Erotik-Museum
mostly destroyed during World Historic and new erotica.
War II. Only the portal remains. d Kantstr. 5 Map N4 9ammidnight
d Fasanenstr. 7980 Map P4 11am daily (030) 886 06 66 Admission
6pm daily (030) 88 02 82 01 charge (over 18 years only)
Theater des Westens

This theatre is based in an
attractive building from 18956.
Renowned for its fare of light Sophie- u
Charlotte-
entertainment, it is regarded as Platz
Zoologischer Garten s
one of Germanys best musical Savignyplatz s u
theatres (see p57). d Kantstr. 12
Uhlandstr. u
Map N4 8pm TueSat, 6pm Sun
01805 4444
84 Deutsche Oper: www.deutscheoperberlin.de

Left Zille-Hof Centre Butter Lindner Right Herr Schmitt in Kings Teagarden
Shops & Markets

Stilwerk Butter Lindner
A shopping centre specializ- This traditional Berlin store
ing in stylish designer goods specializes in fresh, home-made
(see p60). d Kantstr. 17 Map C4 foods and delicatessen. Of its
(030) 31 51 50 numerous branches the most
attractive one is in Charlotten-
Antik- und Flohmarkt burg. d Knesebeckstr. 92 Map P3
Strae des 17. Juni 8am6pm MonFri, 8am1:30pm Sat
Berlins largest antiques, art and (030) 710 910
flea market, selling excellent
items (see p60). d Strae des 17. Hellmann
Juni Map M4 10am5pm Sat, Sun Ladies and gentlemens
fashions made from the best
KPM materials, including Hellmanns
Delicate Berlin porcelain own collection and clothes from
with Prussian subjects (see p61). well-known designers.
d Kurfrstendamm 27 Map P4 d Kurfrstendamm 53 & Bleibtreustr. 20
(030) 886 72 10 Map P3 10am7pm MonFri, 10am
6pm Sat (030) 882 25 65
Hallhuber
This huge upscale clothing Kings Teagarden
store offers the latest interna- Tea retailer Werner Schmitt
tional designer labels for both personally advises his customers
men and women (DKNY, Paul on the many teas available in
Smith and the like) as well as its Berlins best tea shop. d Kurfrsten-
own less expensive house label. damm 217 Map P4 9:30am7pm Mon
d Kurfrstendamm 13 Map P4 Fri, 9:30am4pm Sat (030) 883 70 59
(030) 881 20 78
Zille-Markt
Bcherbogen Old Berlin bric--brac market,
Berlins leading arts and with a vast, if expensive, selection.
photography bookseller is tucked d Fasanenstr. 15 Map P4 8am
away within three arches under 5:30pm MonFri, 8am1pm Sat (030)
the S-Bahn viaduct. d Savignyplatz 313 43 33
Map N3 (030) 31 86 95 11
Jil Sander
Simple, elegant designer
fashions for men and women Zoologischer Garten
are for sale at this upmarket, su
Savignyplatz s
Charlottenburg s
stylishly cool boutique. u
d Kurfrstendamm 185 Map P4 Adenauerplatz u Uhland-
str.
(030) 88 67 020
For more on shopping see p170 85

Left Caf Wintergarten Centre Caf Leysieffer Right Caf Filmbhne am Steinplatz
Cafs
Caf Wintergarten im Caf Hardenberg
Literaturhaus The Technical Universitys
One of Berlins most beautiful student caf has a great atmos-
cafs is based in the conservato- phere and reasonable prices. d
ry of an old town house. In sum- Hardenbergstr. 10 Map N3 9am1am
mer guests can sit outside, in daily (030) 312 26 44 no credit cards
the Literaturhaus garden. d Fasa-
nenstr. 23 Map P4 9:30am1am daily Caf Balzac
(030) 882 54 14 no credit cards One of several modelled on
the US Starbucks chain, this caf
Caf Savigny is opposite the Technical Univer-
This gay and lesbian caf, sity. d Hardenbergstr. 11 Map M3
with traditional interior, has a 7:30am8pm MonFri, 7:30am6pm Sat
relaxed atmosphere; the fruit (030) 31 80 01 82 no credit cards
flans are particularly worth try-
ing. d Grolmanstr. 5354 Map N3 Caf Aedes
9am1am daily (030) 312 81 95 This modern caf, based in
an S-Bahn arch, forms part of an
Confiserie Leysieffer architectural gallery. d Else-Ury-
Caf Leysieffer, one of Ber- Bogen Map N3 9ammidnight daily
lins oldest patisseries, is based (030) 31 50 95 35
in the former Chinese embassy.
d Kurfrstendamm 218 Map P4 Caf Kleine Orangerie
10am8pm MonSat, 11am6pm Sun A small garden caf at the
(030) 885 74 80 Charlottenburg Palace.
d Spandauer Damm 20 Map A3
Caf Kranzler 9am10pm daily (030) 322 20 21
The new Caf Kranzler is
very different from the historic Schwarzes Caf
caf of pre-World War II fame, Alternative rock caf, offer-
yet the views over Kudamm are ing all-day breakfasts. d Kantstr.
just as amazing. d Kurfrstendamm 148 Map N4 Open around the clock
18 Map P4 8:30am8pm daily (030) 313 80 38 no credit cards
(030) 887 18 39 25
Caf Filmbhne
am Steinplatz
Other cafs may sell better
Zoologischer
cakes, but this coffee shop Garten
s
excels thanks to its student Savignyplatz s
u
atmosphere. Charlottenburg s
Uhlandstr. u
d Hardenbergstr. 12 Map N3 Adenauerplatz u
9am2am daily (030) 312 65 89
86 Note: All restaurants accept credit cards

and offer vegetarian dishes unless stated otherwise.
Price Categories
For a three-course under 20
meal for one with half 2030
a bottle of wine (or 3045
equivalent meal), taxes 4560
and charges included over 60

Left Entrance of Paris Bar Centre The Schell, near Savignyplatz
Restaurants
Paris Bar Dressler
Berlins most famous French Everything at Dresslers
restaurant boasts sophisticated looks, smells and tastes as it
cuisine and a fantastic atmos- would in a real French brasserie.
phere with many celebrities. In winter, the game and poultry
d Kantstr. 152 Map N3 noon2am dishes are well worth trying. d
daily (030) 313 80 52 Kurfrstendamm 207208 Map C5
10am1am daily (030) 883 35 30
Alt-Luxemburg
Chef Karl Wannemacher (one Bovril
Michelin star) dishes up good The tables of regulars are
international and German food. marked with brass plaques, but
d Windscheidstr. 31 5pmmidnight anyone will enjoy the French
MonSat (030) 323 87 30 menu and outstanding wine list.
d Kurfrstendamm 184 Map C5
Soultrane 9ammidnight daily
Good German-Asian dishes, (030) 881 84 61
often in creative new combina-
tions, served in stylish surround- Schell
ings. d Kantstr. 17 Map N3 This French-Italian restaurant
10am7pm Mon, 10am2am TueSat, serves an amazing breakfast and
7pm1am Sun (030) 315 18 60 light fish dishes in the evening.
d Knesebeckstr. 22 Map N3 9am
Lubitsch midnight daily (030) 4508 66 83
A small, elegant restaurant,
serving German and Italian Ana e Bruno
fusion food. d Bleibtreustr. 47 Warm, friendly and extreme-
Map N/P3 10am1am MonSat, ly tasteful, Ana e Bruno is the
6pm1am Sun (030) 882 37 56 best and most expensive
Italian restaurant in Berlin.
Florian d Sophie-Charlotten-Str. 101 Map A3
Trendy and popular with film 6:30pm11:30pm TueSat (030) 325 71
lovers; southern German food. 10
d Grolmanstr. 52 Map N3 6pm3am
daily (030) 313 91 84
Westend
s
First Floor
A 1920s-style restaurant,
serving traditional Berlin and Zoologischer
Garten
French food. d Budapester Str. 45 Savignyplatz s
Charlottenburg s s u
Map N5 noon2:30pm and 6pm u
10pm SunFri, 6pmmidnight Sat Adenauerplatz u Uhlandstr.
(030) 25 02 10 20
For more on restaurants in Berlin see p74 87

Around Town Grunewald & Dahlem
Left Landing stage Wannsee Centre Castle ruins on Pfaueninsel Right Jacobsbrunnen Pfaueninsel
Grunewald & Dahlem
B ERLINS GREEN SOUTH, which includes the districts of Grunewald and

Dahlem, is dotted with numerous lakes, rivers, small castles, private
estates and residential villas, leafy roads and cafs for daytrippers.
Grunewald and Dahlem have managed to preserve their rural character,
although affluent and famous Berliners have always built their houses here.
There are many attractions in Berlins southwest: visitors can enjoy extensive
walks in the Grunewald forest, or ferry across the picturesque lake to Pfauen-
insel, an island with romantic castle ruins and a favourite destination for
locals. The swimming baths at Wannsee, Europes largest inland beach, wel-
comes up to 40,000 visitors a day for fun, games and a dip in the water and
on its beautiful white beaches. The museum complex in Dahlem, too, with its
outstanding ethnographic and art collections, is worth visiting. Meanwhile,
the Alliiertenmuseum and the Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz recall a more
painful period in Berlins history.
Sights
1 Dahlem Museums 5 Strandbad Wannsee
2 Pfaueninsel 6 Alliiertenmuseum
3 Schloss Klein- 7 Mexikoplatz
Glienicke
8 Dahlem Villas
4 Gedenksttte
9 Jagdschloss Grunewald
Haus der Wannsee-
Konferenz 0 Museumsdorf Dppel
A peacock on Pfaueninsel
Berliner
9 8
R IT
M H T TE
AM
TE
D
Forst NW Dahlem
RF
ER Grunewald E Dahlem-
EL
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se
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T E LT O
an
n
EG 0 . Lichterfelde
S S E N-
W SW ST R EE
Wannsee s NIG SCH ALL
WE R D
K EP ER Z
Wannsee B ERL GO
TR ASSE
AM M
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Berliner Forst
Dppel Teltow lt ow
Te
2 1 miles 0 km 1 2
88
Dahlem Museums Schloss Klein-Glienicke
These four museums in One of the most beautiful
south Berlin, dedicated to foreign Hohenzollern palaces in Berlin,
cultures and peoples, feature this romantic castle with its
one of Germanys best ethno- extensive park was built by

cultural collections. The Ethno- Schinkel in 182460 as a
logical Museum holds around summer residence for Prince
one million items from around Carl of Prussia. The land-
the world, especially artistic scape garden, designed by
and cult objects from Africa, Peter Joseph Lenn, hides
as well as exhibits from many secrets for example
North-American Indians. Full- pavilions called Groe
scale wooden huts and boats and Kleine Neugierde
from the island populations of (large and small curiosity),
the South Pacific as well as a a garden house and a tea-
large collection of ceramic house, a casino right on the
and stone sculptures from water (a former apartment
the Mayas, Aztecs and Incas Exhibit in a for guests) as well as the
are particularly impressive. Dahlem Museum Orangerie (a greenhouse).
The Museum fr Ostasiati- d Knigstr. 36 mid-Maymid-
sche Kunst, focusing on 1,000 Oct: 10am5pm Sat, Sun (030) 805 30
years of Far-Eastern culture, dis- 41 Admission charge
plays mainly objects in porcelain
and lacquer from Korea, China Gedenksttte Haus der
and Japan. The shiny green jade Wannsee-Konferenz
exhibits from ancient China are It is hard to believe that some-
just as amazing. d Lansstr. 8 (Muse- thing as abhorrent as the Holo-
um Europischer Kulturen: Im Winkel 68) caust could have been planned at
10am6pm TueFri, 11am6pm Sat, Sun this elegant villa
(030) 830 11 Admission charge in a picturesque
spot on Wann-
Pfaueninsel see. Built in
Visitors are enchanted by the 191415 by Paul
romantic palace ruins and the Baumgarten in
eponymous peacocks that run the style of a
around here. The Wannsee island, small Neo-
which can only be reached by Baroque palace
ferry, is one of the most charming Neo-Baroque for the busi-
spots for a walk in Berlin (see Gedenksttte Haus nessman Ernst
also p70). d Pfaueninselchaussee Marlier, it was
10am1pm & 1:305pm daily here that the Nazi elite, among
(030) 80 58 68 30 Admission charge them the infamous Adolf Eich-
mann, met on 20 January 1942
to discuss the details of the
mass extermination of Jews. An
exhibition at the memorial docu-
ments both the conference and
its consequences as well as the
history of the villa. d Am Groen
Wannsee 5658
10am6pm daily (030) 805 00 10
Gryffin at Schloss Klein-Glienicke Free admission
Dahlem Museums: www.smb.spk-berlin.de/ort/d.html 89

Prussia and Antiquity
From 1821, the landscape
designer Peter Joseph Lenn and
the architect Karl Friedrich
Schinkel tried to turn the Potsdam
countryside and its woods and

lakes into an island paradise. Villa at No. 23 Toni-Lessler-Strae
Their concept was based on
Classical ideas of the harmonious
flanked by elegant semi-circular
ensemble of architecture and
landscape, in accordance with the Art-Nouveau apartment blocks,
idealized views of antiquity preva- and in front of these stands
lent in the Neo-Classical period. Berlins last remaining Art-
The architectural style of Prussian Deco-style S-Bahn station. The
palaces thus harks back to yellow buildings are covered in
Greek and Roman models and green shingles and, in summer,
the Italian Renaissance. the balconies are richly decked
with greenery and flowers.
Strandbad Wannsee Some of Berlins most magnifi-
Europes largest inland cent mansion houses line both
beach is a surprisingly pictur- sides of Argentinische and Lin-
esque spot in the middle of the denthaler Allee. Many celebrities
large city, attracting up to 40,000 live in the area around the
visitors a day. The swimming square. d Mexikoplatz
baths were built in 192930 as a
recreation area for workers in the Dahlem Villas
neighbouring districts (see p66). Some of Berlins most attrac-
d Wannseebadeweg 25 AprSep: tive villas, dating back to the
10am7pm MonFri, 8am8pm Sat, Sun 19th century, are found in the
(030) 803 56 12 Admission charge streets surrounding the Grune-
wald S-Bahn station. Especially
Alliiertenmuseum worth seeing are Nos. 15 and
Visitors stroll around this 11 in Winklerstrae, the latter
museum reminiscing and recall- of which was built by Hermann
ing the 50 or so years of partner- Muthesius in the style of an
ship between Western Allies and English country mansion. Villa
West Berliners. The museum, Maren, at No. 12 next door, is
based in a former US-barracks, a beautiful example of the Neo-
employs uniforms, documents, Renaissance style. The villas
weapons and military equipment on Toni-Lessler-Strae and on
to tell the story of Berlins post- Furtwnglerstrae are also worth
war history, though not only from a detour. d Am Groen Wannsee
the military point of view.
d Clayallee 135 10am6pm daily exc
Wed (030) 818 19 90 Free admission
Mexikoplatz
Idyllic Mexikoplatz in the
southern district of Zehlendorf is
one of the most atmospheric
and architecturally fascinating
squares in Berlin. The two round
green spaces in the centre are Villa at No. 11 Winklerstrae
90 Alliiertenmuseum: www.alliiertenmuseum.de
A Day in the South
Morning
Start your morning walk
through Berlins southern

districts by taking the S-
Bahn (lines S7 and S1) to
Jagdschloss Grunewald
Mexikoplatz. Here you
can admire the beautiful
Jagdschloss Grunewald villas and the lovely green
The small gleaming white square before dropping in
palace in Grunewald, dating back to Caf Krone in Argenti-
nische Allee for a late
to 1542, served as a hunting
breakfast. After refresh-
lodge for the Electors. The cas- ments, continue on foot
tle, built in the Renaissance and or by bus (No. 211) south-
Baroque styles, houses a small wards to the open-air
collection of German and Dutch museum Museumsdorf
Dppel. From there, return
paintings. d Httenweg 100, Grune-
by bus via Argentinische
waldsee MayOct: 25pm TueSun; Allee to the Alliierten-
NovApr: 11am4pm Sat, Sun; restoration museum. From the
may affect opening hours: call for informa- museum you can stroll
tion (030) 813 34 42 Admission charge across Knigin-Luise-
Strae and through the
picturesque streets right
Museumsdorf Dppel up to the beer garden
The open-air museum at Luise (see p93) at the
Dppel is a reminder of the fact Free University, where you
that Berlin once consisted of a may like to have lunch.
series of villages, with one of
Afternoon
the oldest settlements dating
Start your afternoon walk
back to the 13th century. The at the Dahlem Museums
lively museum is animated by (see p89). One you have
actors, who are dressed and act enjoyed this cultural break,
out daily life as it would have continue by U-Bahn (U2,
been during the Middle Ages. Dahlem-Dorf) to Krumme
Lanke, and from there, on
There are fascinating live demon- foot, to the S-Bahn station
strations of ancient crafts such Mexikoplatz. The S-Bahn
as bread-baking, pottery and will take you to Wannsee
basket-weaving. Plants are S-Bahn station, from where
grown as in medieval times for you can reach all the sights
in southwestern Berlin.
their various uses. d Clauertstr. 11 When the weather is right,
AprOct: 10am5pm Sun, 37pm Thu visit Strandbad Wannsee,
(030) 802 66 71 Admission charge or visit the Haus der
Wannsee-Konferenz
(see p89) and then admire
the park and Schloss
Klein-Glienicke (see p89).
After your walk, allow
yourself to be tempted by
coffee and cake or supper
at the Remise in Schloss
Klein-Glienicke (see p93).
Your best option for the
return journey is the
S-Bahn from Wannsee.
At Museumsdorf Dppel
Museumsdorf Dppel: www.dueppel.de 91

Left Onkel-Tom-Siedlung Centre St-Annen-Kirche Right Outside the Free University Berlin
Best of the Rest

Stolpe resembles Russian-Orthodox
This small village has churches. It is a popular venue
managed to retain its original for marriage ceremonies.
character to the present day. d Nikolskoer Weg 11am6pm daily
(030) 805 21 00
Grunewaldturm
Fantastic views can be had Blockhaus Nikolskoe
from the red Neo-Gothic brick The log cabin, built in1819,
tower, built in 1897 as a memori- was a present from King Fried-
al to Kaiser Wilhelm I. It now rich Wilhelm III to his daughter
houses a restaurant. d Havelchaussee Charlotte and his son-in-law,
future Tsar Nicholas I. The wood-
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung en Russian-style dacha was
The Uncle Toms Hut set- restored after a fire in 1985.
tlement, developed in 192632 d Nikolskoer Weg 15 from 10am
according to designs by Bruno FriMon (030) 805 29 14
Taut and others, was intended to
create a modern housing estate Heinrich von Kleists
for workers, unlike their old nar- Tomb
row, dark tenement blocks. The German playwright Kleist
d Argentinische Allee and his companion Henriette
Vogel committed suicide by
Free University shooting themselves in 1811;
The campus of Berlins largest they are buried here together
university, founded in 1948 as a (near the S-Bahn overpass).
rival to East-Berlin Humboldt d Bismarckstr. 3, Am Kleinen Wannsee
University, covers large parts of
Dahlem. It is worth looking at St-Annen-Kirche
the 1950s Henry-Ford-Bau and The 14th-century Gothic
the so-called Rostlaube (rusting church is a typical Berlin country
hut), at present being redesigned church. Attractive murals depict
by Sir Norman Foster. d Garystr. scenes from the life of Saint
Anna. Also on display are 11
Teufelsberg late-Gothic figures of saints and
Both the hill and the lake, a Baroque pulpit. d Knigin-Luise-
the dark green Teufelssee, are Str./Pacelliallee
popular destinations for a day
out at the weekend, for flying Teltower Damm
kites, biking and sunbathing. The main shopping street
of Zehlendorf has managed to
St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche preserve its village character and
This charming stone church, its 1768 Baroque church. d Zehlen-
built in 18347 by F A Stler, dorf, at S-Bahn station Zehlendorf
92
Price Categories

Left Sign of the Wirtshaus Paulsborn Right Enjoying an outdoor meal at Blockhaus Nikolskoe
Restaurants & Beer Gardens

Loretta am Wannsee Alter Krug Dahlem
This restaurant, a favourite Large beer garden with a
with day trippers to Wannsee, lengthy menu, offering excellent
attracts visitors with its giant wines and desserts. d Knigin-
beer garden, shaded by chestnut Luise-Str. 52 10ammidnight daily
trees. It always has a great (030) 84 31 95 40
atmosphere. d Kronprinzessinnenweg
260 10ammidnight daily (030) 803 Luise
51 56 One of Berlins nicest beer
gardens, on the Free University
Forsthaus Paulsborn campus, Luises is crowded even
This rustic restaurant next to at lunchtime and always boasts a
Jagdschloss Grunewald is based good atmosphere. The delicious
in an old hunting lodge. d Htten- salads and sandwiches here are
weg 90 summer: 11am11pm TueSun; particularly worth trying.
winter: 11am6pm TueSun (030) 818 19 d Knigin-Luise-Str. 40 10am1am daily
10 (030) 841 88 80
Wirtshaus Schildhorn Grunewaldturm-

Nouvelle cuisine in Grune- Restaurant
wald. In summer you can enjoy A great place for mushroom and
your bratwurst outside, in a pic- game dishes, with views of Wann-
turesque spot right on the shore- see. d Havelchaussee 61 summer:
line at Wannsee. d Havelchaussee/ 10ammidnight daily; winter 10am6pm
Strae am Schildhorn 4a summer: daily (030) 304 12 03
11ammidnight daily; winter: 11am10pm
Sat, Sun (030) 3000 75 93 Remise in Schloss
Klein-Glienicke
Blockhaus Nikolskoe This restaurant offers sophisticat-
Traditional German fare is ed cuisine and surroundings;
served in this historic log cabin, light fish dishes and salads in
built as a Russian dacha. d Nikols- summer, game and roasts in
koer Weg 15 from 10am FriWed winter. d Knigstr. 36 AprOct:
(030) 805 29 14 no credit cards noon10pm daily, NovMar: noon10pm
WedSun (030) 805 40 00
Wirtshaus zur Pfaueninsel
A small venue, serving rustic Diekmann im Chalet
German food in the open air. Suisse
This is an ideal place for refresh- Swiss hospitality and a cosy
ments before a visit to Pfauenin- atmosphere in Grunewald. Local
sel. d Pfaueninselchaussee 100 and exquisite Swiss cooking.
summer: 9am8pm daily; winter: d Clayallee 99 11:30am10pm daily
10am6pm daily (030) 805 22 25 (030) 832 63 62
Following pages Inside the Cupola of the Reichstag 93

Around Town Tiergarten & Federal District
Left Haus der Kulturen der Welt Centre In Tiergarten Right Shell-Haus
Tiergarten & Federal District
I N 1999, BERLINS GREEN centre became the government district. Around

Tiergarten, Berlins largest and most popular park, stand the Reichstag, the
Bundeskanzleramt and Schloss Bellevue, seat of the President of the Federal
Republic of Germany. Tiergarten itself is a great place for strolling and
cycling, and it also boasts the Neuer See, the Spree River and Berlins Zoo.
In summer, its lawns are used for soccer games and barbecue parties.
Sights
1 Reichstag 6 Hamburger Bahnhof
2 Kulturforum 7 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
3 Groer Tiergarten 8 Gedenksttte Deutscher
Widerstand
4 Siegessule
5 Diplomatenviertel 9 Hansa-Viertel
0 Villa von der Heydt
The renovated Reichstag

RA
STROMSTR.
TH
Fritz-Schloss-
6
EN
Park
LUIS ENS TRA
OW
SE
@ AS SS
E
L E HS T R .
TR
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TURMS
TRAS SE IT ZS
u Turmstr. S T Humboldt-
RTE
TUR MSTR A SSE DL

ST
Ottoplatz SE
Y EN
R
ID
RA
ABI
T Kleiner
INV
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SS
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TR AS SE
PLA T Z
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S T Stadtbahnhof Mitte
HI NGT O N
TR AS SE
ST RO MS
RA
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Lessingbrcke
KI RC HS
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SSE
AL T- M OA
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Park IL
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Moabiter Brcke Moltkebrcke L Y - B Kronprinzenbrcke

R A
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LUIS ENST R.
Bellevue
N GS
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Hansabrcke s
B96
SSI
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LE
9 Schlosspark 1
SE
AS
SE
Bellevue FO S T E R- D U L L E S SCHEIDEMANNSTR.
u Hansaplatz
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OC
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Tiergarten
HO FJ GE
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Potsdamer
B U D A P E S TE R STR.
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n 1 miles 0 km 1
96 Tiergarten: www.tiergarten.de
Reichstag commemorate
More than any other Berlin Prussian victory
landmark, the Reichstag - seat of against Denmark in
the German parliament has the war of 1864.
come to symbolize German his- After victory

tory (see pp1011). over Austria in
1866 and France
Kulturforum 1871, the
This unique complex of structure was Statue on Siegessule
buildings features the best crowned by a
museums and concert halls in 35-ton gilded statue of the god-
Berlin (see pp325). dess Victoria. There are excellent
views from the viewing platform
Groer Tiergarten (see p39). d Groer Stern Map M6
The Groer Tiergarten is AprOct: 9:30am6:30pm daily; Nov
Berlins largest park, straddling Mar: 9:30am5:30pm daily Admission
an area of 200 hectares (494 charge
acres) between the eastern and
western halves of the town. Diplomatenviertel
Formerly the Electors hunting In the late 19th century, an
grounds, it was redesigned in embassy district sprang up. Its
the 1830s as a park by Peter extent is still marked today by
Joseph Lenn. At the end of the two pompous Fascist buildings
19th century, the Siegesallee (Italian and Japanese embassies
was established in the east of of 1938 and 1943 respectively).
the park, more than 500 m (1640 Most structures were destroyed
ft) in length, lined by the statues during World War II, and until the
of monarchs and politicians. reunification of Germany the
After World War II, the starving diplomatic buildings were left to
and freezing population chopped decay. Since 1999, new life has
down nearly all the trees for fire- been breathed into the diplo-
wood and dug up the lawns to mats quarter and, thanks to its
grow food. Thanks to reforesta- adventurous architecture, it has
tion work since the 1950s, Tier- been transformed into one of the
garten today has become Berlins most interesting parts of Berlin.
favourite green space and the Especially worth seeing are the
lungs of the city. Austrian and Indian embassies on
d Tiergarten Map M5/6 Tiergartenstrae as well as, on
Klingelhferstrae, the embassies
Siegessule of the Nordic countries (see p41)
In the middle of Tiergarten and of Mexico. d Between Stauffen-
stands the 62-m (203-ft) high bergstr. and Lichtensteinallee as well as
Victory Column, erected to along Tiergartenstr. Map E4
Left Roof of the Japanese Embassy Right The Austrian Embassy
For more on modern architecture see pp4041 97

Peter Joseph Lenn
Lenn (17891866), regarded as
Germanys most important land-
scape architect, was born into a
family of gardeners in Bonn. He
studied in Paris and joined the

Royal Gardens in Potsdam as an
apprentice in 1816. There he met
Schinkel and, together, these two
men set out to design the parks
of Berlin and Potsdam in the
harmonious style of the time.
Main entrance Bendlerblock
Hamburger Bahnhof Sergijevski, is crowned by the

The former Hamburg railway huge bronze statue by Lev Ker-
station, now the Museum of bel. Behind the memorial, 2,500
the Present Day, holds a cross- Russian soldiers are buried.
section of contemporary paint- d Strae des 17. Juni Map K2
ings and the latest multi-media
works of art and installations. Gedenksttte
One of the highlights is the Deutscher Widerstand
private collection of Erich Marx, The 1930s complex, which is
including works by Beuys and today known as Bendlerblock,
others. Apart from well-known lies behind the former Prussian
artists such as Andy Warhol, Ministry of War. During World
Jeff Koons and Robert War II it served as army head-
Rauschenberg, it also shows quarters. It was here that a
works by Anselm Kiefer and group of officers planned
Sandro Chiao. d Invalidenstr. the assassination of Adolf
5051 Map F2 10am6pm Hitler. When the attempt
TueFri, 11am6pm Sat, Sun failed on 20 July 1944,
Admission charge Claus Schenk Count von
Stauffenberg and the
Sowjetisches others involved were
Ehrenmal arrested in the Bendler-
The giant Soviet Memorial block, and many of them
near Brandenburg Gate was were shot in the courtyard
officially opened on during the night. A
7 November 1945, the Sowjetisches Ehrenmal memorial, created by
anniversary of the Russ- Richard Scheibe in
ian October Revolution. It is 1953, commemorates these
flanked by two tanks, supposed- events. On the upper floor is a
ly the first ones to reach Berlin. small exhibition documenting the
The memorial commemorates German resistance against the
300,000 Red Army soldiers who Nazi regime. Today, the Bendler-
died during World War II in the block has been incorporated into
struggle to liberate Berlin. The the Berlin branch of the Federal
large column was constructed Ministry of Defence. d Stauffen-
from marble blocks from Hitlers bergstr. 1314 Map E4 9am6pm
Reich Chancellery, which had MonWed, Fri, 9am8pm Thu, 10am6pm
just been torn down. The column Sat, Sun (030) 26 99 50 00
itself, designed by Nicolai Admission charge
98
A Day Out
Morning
Start your tour of Tiergarten
at the Reichstag (see

pp1011). Explore the gov-
ernment district from here
starting with the Bundes-
kanzleramt (the Federal
Chancellors Office, diago-
nally opposite). Stop at
Restaurant Kfer (see
p101) in the Reichstag for
Lortzing Memorial in Tiergarten
breakfast. Via John-Foster-
Dulles-Allee you will pass
Hansa-Viertel the Carillon and the Haus
The Hansa estate west of der Kulturen der Welt on
Schloss Bellveue was built for the way to Groer Tier-
garten (see p97). Continue
the Interbau trade fair in 1957.
along one of the paths into
World War II bombs had flattened the park, directly opposite
Tiergarten, and 36 residential the old Kongresshalle,
complexes were erected in the until you reach Strae des
park, designed by distinguished 17. Juni. If you turn right
here, you will be heading
architects from around the world,
directly towards Sieges-
including Walter Gropius (Hndel- sule (see p39). From
allee 39), Alvar Aalto (Klopstock- there continue along Fasa-
str. 3032) and Oscar Niemeyer nerieallee in a southwest-
(Altonaer Str. 414). d Tiergarten, erly direction until you get
to the Caf am Neuen
Hanseatenweg Map D3
See (see p101), where you
could have lunch.
Villa von der Heydt
The late-Neo-Classical Villa Afternoon
von der Heydt is one of the few A stroll through the Diplo-
surviving examples of the archi- mats Quarter (see p97):
tectural villa style typical of Tier- from Neuer See, it is only
a few steps along Lichten-
garten. It was built in 186061,
steinallee and Thomas-
according to plans by Hermann Dehler-Strae in an easter-
Ende and G. A. Linke, for one of ly direction until you get to
the most elegant residential areas Klingelhferstrae with its
in Berlin at the time. Since 1980, Scandinavian embassies.
On Tiergartenstrae you
the Prussian Heritage Foundation
will pass, among others,
has had its headquarters here. the embassies of Japan,
d Von-der-Heydt-Str. 18 Map E4 Italy, India and Austria.
From here you could con-
tinue south along Klingel-
hferstrae, making a
small detour for refresh-
ments at Caf Einstein
(see p101). Continue along
Ltzowufer until you reach
the Kulturforum (see
pp323) via Potsdamer
Brcke. A good place for
an evening meal would be
the Vox (see p101).
Villa von der Heydt
99
Left On Neuer See Centre The Lwenbrcke Right Estonian Embassy; Greek Embassy ruins
Hidden Treasures
Neuer See Englischer Garten
Shimmering in a mysterious The landscaped English-style
emerald green, the largest lake in garden near Schloss Bellevue is
Tiergarten is perfect for rowing. ideal for strolling.
Afterwards you can recover in d An der Klopstockstr. Map M5
the Caf am Neuen See.
d S-Bahn station Tiergarten Map M5 Estonian Embassy
The old Estonian Embassy,
Lwenbrcke in a quiet side street next to the
The Lion Bridge, which ruined Greek Embassy, is charac-
leads across a small stream near teristic of the diplomats quarter.
Neuer See, is suspended from d Hiroshimastr. Map E4
the sculptures of four lions. This
idyllic spot is a favourite meeting Locks
point for gays in Berlin. The two canal locks behind
d Groer Weg Map M5 the zoo, taking visitors across
the dammed Landwehrkanal, are
Lortzing-Denkmal popular resting places. d At the
There are 70 statues of Zoo, S-Bahn station Tiergarten Map M5
philosophers, poets and states-
men in Tiergarten. The statue of Gaslights in Tiergarten
the composer Lortzing, at one With 80 historic gaslights
end of Neuer See, is one of the along the paths, an evening stroll
most beautiful. in Tiergarten is very romantic. d
d stlicher Groer Weg Map M5 At S-Bahn station Tiergarten Map M5
Houseboats Landwehrkanal
Docked on the banks of the The sloping, grass-covered
Spree are some of the remaining banks of Landwehrkanal are ideal
few houseboats in Berlin an spots to chill out.
idyllic haven in the middle of the d Corneliusstr. Map M/N5/6
city. d Strae des 17. Juni, Tiergarten-
ufer Map M3
Carillon
The carillon, officially dedi- s Bellevue
cated in 1987, is the largest of its Hansaplatz
u
Unter den
kind in Europe. The 68 bells are Tiergarten Linden s
s
rung every day at noon and 6pm
in the 42-m (138-ft) high black s
Potsdamer
tower. Platz u
d John-Foster-Dulles-Allee (Haus der
Kulturen der Welt) Map E3
100
Price Categories

Left In the Caf am Neuen See Right Facil restaurant at the Madison Hotel
Restaurants & Cafs

Caf am Neuen See first Michelin star. d Ltzowufer 15
Not a place of pilgrimage for (Grand Hotel Esplanade) Map N6
gourmets but Berlins most popu- (030) 254 78 86 30
lar beer garden, serving salads,
pasta and pizza (see p53). Hugos
d Lichtensteinallee 1 Map M5 (030) This restaurant offers great
(03) 254 49 30 no credit cards views and Michelin-starred Medi-
terranean food. d Budapester Str. 2
Schleusenkrug Map N4/5 (030) 26 02 12 63
This small caf, right next to
a lock, has a rustic beer garden Brasserie Desbrosses
and is very popular with students. An appealing, historic French
d Tiergarten-Schleuse Map M5 restaurant. Its seafood is particu-
11am1am daily (030) 313 99 09 larly good. d Potsdamer Platz 3 (Ritz-
no credit cards Carlton) Map F4 6:30am11pm daily
(030) 33 77 76 340
Caf Einstein
Based in the villa belonging Paris-Moskau
to the film star Henny Porten, A classic Berlin restaurant,
Caf Einstein is the ultimate in in a timber-frame house, serving
Viennese elegance, serving Aus- French food especially game
trian food and boasting the best dishes. d Alt-Moabit 141 Map J1
strawberry torte in town. (030) 394 20 81 no credit cards
d Kurfrstenstr. 58 Map E5 9am2am
daily (030) 261 50 96 Alte Pumpe
There is always an excellent
Kfer im Reichstag atmosphere in this old Berlin
Ambitious restaurant, better restaurant, based in a pumping
known for its view than its food. station and serving rustic Ger-
d Platz der Republik Map K2 man fare. d Ltzowstr. 42 Map E5
(030) 22 62 99 33 (030) 26 48 42 65
Facil
Lehrter
Mediterranean gourmet Stadtbahnhof s
food, stylishly presented, domi-

nates the menu at this elegant
eaterie. d Potsdamer Str. 3 Map L2
Unter den
(030) 590 05 12 34 Linden s
s Tiergarten
Vivo s
Potsdamer Platz
A gourmet restaurant, influ- u
enced by Californian cooking and
firmly on the way to receiving its
Note: All restaurants accept credit cards 101

Around Town Kreuzberg & Schneberg
Left Martin-Gropius-Bau Centre Above a door in Schneberg Right Shield, Jdisches Museum
Kreuzberg & Schneberg
K REUZBERG IS POSSIBLY Berlins most famous district, and it definitely

qualifies as its most colourful area. Here, in historic tenement blocks that
are slowly but surely being renovated, Turkish families live next door to drop-
outs and alternatives, artists and students. Social tensions, still characteristic
of Kreuzberg today, make this a varied and interesting district but at the
same time a problematic one. The neighbouring district of Schneberg is
markedly quieter; this part of town is not as experimental as Kreuzberg,
neither is it as elegant as Charlottenburg here Berlin is simply enjoyed
by its inhabitants. Winterfeldtplatz is surrounded
by many inviting pubs, and in the area around
Nollendorfplatz entire roads have been taken over
and transformed by Berlins gay scene,
with their shops, bars and night clubs.
Sights
1 Deutsches 6 Oranienstrae
Technikmuseum
7 Nollendorfplatz
2 Jdisches Museum
8 Viktoriapark
3 Checkpoint Charlie
9 Martin-Gropius-Bau
4 Topographie des Terrors
0 Riehmers
5 Anhalter Bahnhof Hofgarten
Statue on Mehringplatz
3 ASSE ZIMM ERST R.

-
A S S IN E
ST
RE
@ 94
ST R H -H E
KOCHSTR OR
SE
Bendlerbrcke A N Waldeckpark
Mendelssohn-
@ u Kochstr.
MA
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S TR .
R IC
Potsdamer STR
NN
LT Bartholdy-Park R
A LT E
6@
ZOW .
Brcke
u
H E IN
-
A N H ST R .
ST R. IN ER
F R I E D R I C H ST
I LL
-
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ASS
u Moritzplatz
TH
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ST R W E L L
.
Anhalter
STR
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Bahnhof
ST
A N AN IA
.
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Kurfrstenstr.
RA
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2
F LO
KUR
.
u
SS
U
FR
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K LE IS NOLLENDORF-
E
STE
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@ Mckernbrcke
.
T ST R PLATZ
La n
ST R
LIN D
T R. Gleisdreieck
u
SSE
.
7 u Nollendorfplatz u
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Prinzenstr. u Kottbusser Tor
u
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eh
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TR.
MO
TZS
BL
O W ST u Blowstr. 1 G I T S CH I N E R S T R A S S E
L-
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Kreuzberg
IR A
Hallesches Bcklerpark
R
Schneberg
R.
ADM
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P O T S D AM E
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B L C H E R S TR. Baerwaldbrcke U rb an
ha fe
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n
KU LM
PA L L A S S T H O RN Mehringdamm Kottbusser
R. GOE
u
GLEDITS CHSTR.
URB ST R.
u Yorckstr. B E N ST Brcke
.
ANS
STR
ZO S S E N
Heinrich-
EE RE N-
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ASS
@
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FE
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Park
RCK 0 u Gneisenaustr.
AE
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GR
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u Kleistpark St.Matthus- GST R A S S E K

KATZBACHSTRA SSE
BE RG M
GR UN EW SE
MEHRINGDA
KR E U ZB E R
u Kirchhof I
AN NS
TR . u Sdstern
HA 8
F R I E SE N STR.
M ON U M E N Kirchhof SENH
E
Eisenacher S E TE N ST R AS S
EIDE
SS
E Friedrichs- Jerusalem U.
Str. AS Viktoriapark
ST R
RA
Werderscher
Luftbrcke u
R KO Platz der
ST
IGE
Kirchhof
Z T LO Kirchhof
BEL UP NN Luisenstadt I Volkspark
E N- S T R AS S E
HA DUDENSTR ASSE Hasenheide
2 1 miles 0 km 1 2
102
Deutsches
Technikmuseum
The history of technology and
crafts is the theme of this fasci-
nating museum, located in the

grounds of a former station. In a
new building, visitors can learn
about developments in aviation The old sign at Checkpoint Charlie
and admire 40 planes, including
a Junkers Ju 52 and a raisin escape from East to West Berlin,
bomber, the type of plane used ranging from a hot-air balloon to
for the Berlin airlift. Old ships a car with a false floor. Only a
and steam locomotives bring replica of the control hut remains
back the days of the Industrial of the former border. d Friedrichstr.
Revolution. d Trebbiner Str. 9 Map 4345 Map G4 9am10pm daily
F5 9am5:30pm TueFri, 10am6pm Sat, (030) 253 72 50 Admission charge
Sun (030) 90 25 40 Admission charge
Topographie des Terrors
Jdisches Museum After 1934, three terrifying
The Jewish Museum is not Nazi institutions had their head-
only unique architecturally, but it quarters in this area: the security
is also one of Berlins most fasci- service (Sicherheitsdienst, SD)
nating museums. Its collections was based at Wilhelmstrae 102
present an overview of almost in the Prinz-Albrecht-Palais; the
1,000 years of German-Jewish school of arts and crafts at Prinz-
cultural history; a special exhibi- Albrecht-Strae 8 was occupied
tion is devoted to everyday Jew- by the Gestapo; while Heinrich
ish life in Berlin from the end of Himmler, head of the SS, resided
the 19th century (see p46). next door at No. 9, at the Hotel
d Lindenstr. 14 Map G5 10am10pm Prinz Albrecht. After World War II,
Mon, 10am8pm TueSun (030) 25 99 all the buildings were bulldozed
33 00 Admission charge except for the cellars where, in
193345, prisoners had been
Checkpoint Charlie interrogated and tortured. An
The Haus am Checkpoint exhibition and a documentation
Charlie, next to the former cross- centre (under construction)
ing point for the Alllied forces, chronicle the history of the area.
has an exhibition on the history d Stresemannstr. 110, entrance Nieder-
of the Berlin Wall and the various kirchner Str. Map F4 10am8pm daily
means people used in trying to (030) 25 48 67 03 Free admission
Left Inside Deutsches Technikmuseum Right Exhibition of Nazi crimes at Topographie des Terrors
Deutsches Technikmuseum: www.dtmb.de 103

Left Plaque on Nollendorfplatz Centre Faade of the Metropol Right Ruins of Anhalter Bahnhof
Anhalter Bahnhof Nollendorfplatz

Only pitiful fragments Nollendorfplatz and neigh-
remain of the railway station that bouring Winterfeldtplatz are right
was once the largest in Europe. in the centre of Schneberg. The
The giant structure was erected former square has always been a
in 1880 by Franz Schwechten as focal point for the gay scene in
a showcase station: official visi- Berlin, and a plaque at U-Bahn
tors to the Empire were meant station Nollendorfplatz commem-
to be impressed by the splen- orates approximately 5,000 homo-
dour and glory of the German sexuals killed in concentration
capital as soon as they reached camps by the Nazis. Today, gay
the railway station. In 1943 the life is concentrated more in the
station was badly damaged by surrounding streets. Before
bombs and in 1960 it was pulled World War II, Nollendorfplatz
down. The waste ground behind was also a centre of entertain-
the faade was meant to become ment. The Metropol-Theater,
a park; today the Tempodrom is today a discotheque, then
based here, hosting concerts and boasted Erwin Piscator as its
cabaret shows. innovative director. And next
d Askanischer Platz 67 Map F5 door lived the writer Christopher
Isherwood, whose novel formed
Oranienstrae the basis of the famous musical
Oranienstrae is the heart of Cabaret. d Map E5
Kreuzberg. It is the wildest, most
colourful and most unusual street Turkish Berlin
of the district, where alternative In the 1960s, thousands of Turk-
shops and pubs jostle for space ish gastarbeiter (guest
with doner kebab take-aways and workers) came to Berlin in
Turkish greengrocers. All aspects response to a shortage of labour.
of life and politics in Kreuzberg Today the Turkish community
are centred around this road. numbers around 190,000 and it is
d Between Lindenstr. and Skalitzer Str. mainly their children who leave
their mark on life in the city. There
Map H5
are few guest workers left;
most Turkish Berliners own their
own shops and consider them-
selves to be true Berliners. The
rate of naturalization is still fairly
low, and many German Berliners
have no contact with everyday
life in the Turkish community. At
40 per cent, the rate of unem-
ployment among Turkish
Berliners is depressingly high.
Flower stall on Winterfeldtmarkt
104
A Day in Kreuzberg
Morning
Start from the famous
ruins of Anhalter

Bahnhof, which you can
reach by S-Bahn. From
here continue along Stre-
semannstrae in a north-
westerly direction to the
Martin-Gropius-Bau. It is
easy to while away a few
hours in this impressive
building if there is a spe-
Memorial by Schinkel in Viktoriapark cial exhibition. You could
take a break for refresh-
Viktoriapark ments in the museum
This rambling park was set caf. A visit to the neigh-
bouring exhibition, the
up as a recreational space for
Topographie des Terrors
workers in Kreuzberg in 188894 (see p103) afterwards
to plans by Hermann Mchtig. It will bring you face to face
has an artificial waterfall, and the with the dark Nazi past of
Neo-Gothic Schinkel memorial at this area. Continue along
Niederkirchnerstrae, past
the top of Kreuzberg, 66 m (216
an original section of the
ft) high, commemorates Prussian Berlin Wall, to Wilhelm-
victory in the Wars of Liberation strae. Then turn into
against Napoleon. d Kreuzbergstr. Kochstrae to visit Check-
Map F6 point Charlie and the
museum at the former
border (see p103).
Martin-Gropius-Bau
The richly ornamented for- Afternoon
mer museum of arts and crafts You can buy a tasty lunch
is one of Berlins most attractive at Sale e Tabacchi (see
exhibition centres (see pp467). p109) in Kochstrae. Con-
d Niederkirchnerstr. 7 Map F4 tinue along Kochstrae in
an easterly direction and
changing exhibitions and opening times.
you will get to the heart of
10am8pm TueFri, Sun; 10am10pm Sat Kreuzberg. Make a detour
(030) 25 48 60 Admission charge south on Lindenstrae to
the Jdisches Museum
Riehmers Hofgarten (see p103) or carry on into
Oranienstrae. Take the
Over 20 buildings make up U-Bahn U6 from U-Bahn
this elegant estate, built as offi- station Kottbusser Tor to
cers quarters in the Grnderzeit Platz der Luftbrcke. The
(after the found- Viktoriapark nearby is a
ing of the Ger- good place for a rest,
while shopaholics prefer a
man Empire in stroll up and down Berg-
1871). Attrac- mannstrae. At the end,
tively restored turn north into Baerwald-
in recent years, strae and continue to
there is also a Carl-Herz-Ufer, where you
will be able to round off
pleasant hotel the day with a delicious
with restaurant. evening meal at the Altes
d Yorckstr. 8386 Zollhaus (see p109).
Riehmers Hofgarten Map F6
Martin-Gropius-Bau: www.berlinerfestspiele.de/gropiusbaus/ 105

Left Rathaus Schneberg Centre Oberbaumbrcke Right On Mariannenplatz
Best of the Rest

Rathaus Schneberg Altes Mosse-Palais
It was from this Town Hall, One of Berlins most
on 26 June 1963, that the US important publishing houses was
President John F Kennedy made based in this Art Nouveau corner
his famous speech, declaring house in the former newspaper
I am a Berliner and expressing district. d Kochstr. Map G4
his commitment to the freedom
of West Berlin. Friedhfe Hallesches Tor
d John-F-Kennedy-Platz Numerous celebrities lie
buried in the four cemeteries,
Mehringplatz including the composer Felix
Once Kreuzbergs prettiest Mendelssohn Bartholdy. Also
square, Mehringplatz was the writer E T A Hoffmann,
destroyed in World War II and whose work inspired Offenbach
is today surrounded by modern to write The Tales of Hoffmann.
residential buildings. d Map G5 d Mehringdamm Map G5
Flughafen Tempelhof Lapidarium

Tempelhof, built in 1939 by The former pumping station
Ernst Sagebiel and then Ger- is open for visits; the sculptures
manys biggest airport, survives in the garden once decorated the
as the largest Fascist structure Siegesallee (alley of triumph).
in Europe. In front of it, a monu- d Hallesches Ufer 78 Map F5
ment, nicknamed the starving
claw, recalls the airports role Kottbusser Tor
during the Berlin Airlift in 19489. Kreuzberg in the raw: social
d Platz der Luftbrcke Map G6 misery tucked away in between
new buildings in the Turkish
Mariannenplatz heart of the district. Map H5
This square is dominated by
the Gothic-style artists house Kammergericht
Bethanien. A former hospital, it In 194790, the magnificent
is today used as studio space by supreme court, built in 190913,
experimental artists. d Map H5 was used as Allied Control Coun-
cil. d Potsdamer Str. 186 Map E6
Oberbaumbrcke
Pedestrians and cyclists can Mendelssohn-
Bartholdy-Park u
u Kochstr.
s Anhalter
cross to the other side of the Bahnhof
Kottbusser Tor u
Spree River from Kreuzberg to Hallesches
Tor u
Friedrichshain on this red-brick
bridge, one of Berlins loveliest, u Kleistpark
Sdstern
u
uEisenacher
which was erected in 18946. Platz der
Luftbrckeu
Str.
d Warschauer/Skalitzer Str.
106 Rathaus Schneberg: http://www.engr.psu.edu/

deutschlandsarchitektur/berlin/rathaeuser/schoeneberg.html
Left A stall in Winterfeldtmarkt Centre Marheineke-Markthalle Right At Grober Unfug Comics
Shops & Markets

Winterfeldtmarkt fashion of a local label. d Oranien-
At Berlins largest and most str. 9 Map H5 (030) 611 46 55
wonderful weekday market you
can buy fresh fruit and vege- High-Lite
tables as well as other goods If youre worried about
from around the world, such as standing out in the alternative
clothes and New-Age items. crowd in Kreuzberg, this is the
d Winterfeldtplatz Map E5 place to get your shades, body
8am2pm Sat piercings and other essentials.
d Bergmannstr. 99 Map F/G6
Trkenmarkt Maybachufer (030) 691 27 44
No other market in Berlin is
quite as exotic. This is where Ararat
Berliners and Turks alike buy One of the best-stocked
their unleavened bread and fresh and trendiest stationery shops
sheeps cheese. d Maybachufer in Berlin, Ararat has many
Map H5 noon6:30pm Tue, Fri designer items for sale.
d Bergmannstr. 99a Map F/G6
Molotow (030) 693 50 80
Funky and trendy fashion
from Berlin designers perhaps Marheineke-Markthalle
not to everyones taste, but One of the last remaining
guaranteed to cause a stir. market-halls in Berlin. Visit the
d Gneisenaustr. 112 Map G6 colourful fruit and vegetable
(030) 693 08 18 stores to experience a genuine
taste of Old Berlin.
Oranienplatz and d Marheinekeplatz Map G6
Oranienstrae 8am6pm MonSat
Kreuzbergs main square and
unofficial high street specialize in Grober Unfug Comics
all things alternative. d Oranienstr./ This store sells comic books
corner Oranienplatz Map G5 of all periods and in various lan-
guages its name means com-
MaaenZehn plete rubbish. d Zossener Str. 32
Designer jeans or trendy Map G6 (030) 69 40 14 90
belts all with minor faults at
heavily reduced prices.
Moritzplatz u
d Maaenstr. 10 Map E5
u Nollendorfplatz Kottbusser
(030) 215 54 56 Tor u
Gneisenaustr.
u
Depot 2 u
This small boutique sells the Platz der Sdstern
Luftbrcke u
latest streetwear and hip hop
107
Left The bar at Mister Hu Centre Inside Kumpelnest 3000 Right At Caf Adler
Pubs, Bars & Discos

Kumpelnest 3000 always popular thanks to its
A super-popular venue, changing club nights and great
based in a former brothel, com- house music. d Dennewitzstr. 37
plete with chintz wallpaper. Map E5 (030) 23 00 59 54
Apart from the delicious Caipi-
rinhas, the cocktails are not par- Golgatha
ticularly special. d Ltzowstr. 23 A popular pick-up venue
Map E5 (030) 261 69 18 for students, this classic beer
garden on the Kreuzberg also
Yorkschlsschen attracts an older clientele, bop-
A pub-restaurant with a ping to funk on the small dance
great Old Berlin feel. Live jazz floor. d Dudenstr. 48-64 (Viktoriapark)
concerts at the weekend. Map F6 (030) 785 24 53
d Yorkstr. 15 Map F6 (030) 215 80 70
Wirtschaftswunder
Mister Hu The Economic Miracle
The locals would like to keep is a 1950s-revival venue, fitted
this secret to themselves: Mister with formica furniture and kid-
Hu serves some of the greatest ney-shaped tables. d Yorkstr. 82
cocktails in town (see p55). Map F6 no telephone
d Goltzstr. 39 Map E5 (030) 217 21 11
Wrgeengel
Van Loon The drinks at the Angel
Enjoy a snack surrounded of Death are not in fact, lethal,
by nautical artifacts on this old but bar and clientele are straight
barge moored in Urbanhafen. out of a Buuel film. d Dresdner
In summer you can sit on the Str. 122 Map H5 (030) 615 55 60
green banks to drink your beer.
d Carl-Herz-Ufer 57 Map G5 Caf Adler
(030) 692 62 93 Time seems to have stood
still at this pleasant pubcaf
Green Door with an affordable menu, its next
A Berlin classic, this 1970s to the former border crossing at
retro bar is very popular and Checkpoint Charlie. d Friedrichstr.
always packed. It serves some of 206 Map G4 (030) 215 89 65
the best cocktails in the city.
d Winterfeldstr. 50 Map E5 u Kochstr.
(030) 215 25 15 u Kurfrstenstr.
u Prinzenstr. u u
Nollendorf- u Kottbusser
platz Blowstr.
Tor
90 Grad u
Mehringdamm
Rising with the ebb and flow
u Eisenacher
of popularity in the Berlin club Str.
u Platz der
Luftbrcke
scene, this discotheque is
108
Price Categories

Left In Storch Right The sign outside Sale e Tabacchi
Restaurants & Cafs

Altes Zollhaus Defne
International and German An intimate restaurant serv-
cuisine, served in a former bor- ing modern Turkish food.
der control point on the banks d Planufer. 92c Map H5 (030) 81 79
of the Landwehrkanal. Try the 71 11
house speciality: Brandenburger
Landente aus dem Rohr a roast Le Cochon Bourgeois
duck dish, or dishes with wild Top-quality French cooking at
mushrooms, when in season. d moderate prices, attracting a
Carl-Herz-Ufer 30 Map G5 Bohemian local crowd and oth-
(030) 692 33 00 ers. d Fichtestr. 24 Map H6
(030) 693 01 01 no credit cards
Joe Penas Cantina y Bar
One of the best Mexican Merhaba
restaurants in town, serving a One of the best Turkish
range of tortillas, borritos and restaurants in Berlin, dishing up
enchiladas. d Marheinekeplatz 3 great lamb kebabs and other
(030) 693 60 44 Turkish specialities. d Hasenheide
39 Map H6 (030) 692 17 13
Osteria No. 1
The Italian local par excel- Storch
lence: noisy and expensive, but The best dishes from the
serving unique pizzas and excel- Alsace are served at this reliable,
lent pasta dishes. Later you can classic wood-panelled restaurant.
just decamp to the wine bar next Try one of the Flammkuchen.
door. d Kreuzbergstr. 71 Map F6 d Wartburgstr. 54 Map D5 (030) 784
(030) 786 91 62 20 59
Hasir Pranzo e Cena

One branch of the Turkish- Unbeatable pizzas from the
Arabic fast food chain, serving clay oven are the speciality in
falafels and other delicacies till this Italian venue, popular with
late into the night. d Maaenstr. 10 students and always busy.
Map E5 (030) 215 60 60 no credit d Goltzstr. 32 Map E5 (030) 216 35 14
cards no credit cards
Sale e Tabacchi u Kochstr.

Italian restaurant with
u Nollendorfplatz Prinzenstr.u
elegant interior, popular with
the media crowd. In summer, u Mehringdamm
be sure to reserve a table in the u
u Eisenacher Str.
central courtyard. d Kochstr. 18 Platz der Sdstern
Luftbrcke u
Map G4 (030) 25 29 50 03
Following pages: Gendarmenmarkt at night 109

Around Town Central Berlin: Unter den Linden
Left Portal of Kronprinzenpalais Centre Opernpalais Right Inside the Komische Oper
Central Berlin: Unter den Linden
M OST VISITORS TO BERLIN regard the magnificent boulevard of Unter

den Linden as the heart of the small historic Mitte district. Many of
Berlins sights are concentrated along the grand avenue and around Bebel-
platz, creating an impressive picture of Prussian and German history from
the early 18th century until the present day. South of Unter den Linden is
Gendarmenmarkt, one of Europes most attractive squares. In recent years,
many varied and elegant restaurants and cafs have appeared around the
Neo-Classical square. Not far away, chic Friedrichstrae is lined with luxury
shops and department stores as well as modern offices and apartments.
Sights
1 Brandenburger Tor 6 Friedrichstrae
2 Deutsche Guggenheim 7 Holocaust-Denkmal
3 Forum 8 Wilhelmstrae
Fridericianum
9 Schlossplatz
4 Gendarmenmarkt
0 Museum fr
5 Museumsinsel Kommunikation
Sculpture on Schlossbrcke
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112
Brandenburger Tor
Berlins best-known landmark
on Pariser Platz leads through to
Unter den Linden (see pp89).
d Pariser Platz Map K3

Deutsche Guggenheim
This branch of the American Altes Palais at Forum Fridericianum
Guggenheim museum, together
with the Deutsche Bank branch area around todays Bebelplatz,
Unter den Linden, show chang- and personally influenced their
ing exhibitions of modern art of design: Deutsche Staatsoper, the
the highest standard from the first free-standing opera house
US. During recent years, Deut- in Europe; Catholic St Hedwigs-
sche Guggenheim has thus man- kathedrale, Alte Bibliothek and
aged to become one of the most Prinz-Heinrich-Palais, later the
successful and popular art ven- Humboldt University. Bebelplatz
ues in the city, with an emphasis itself is particularly interesting.
placed on installations. In 1999, A memorial set into the ground
the retrospective of works by reminds of its dark past in
Dan Flavin was a particular 1933, it was the venue for the
highlight. Treasures from the Nazi book burning. Fredericks
Deutsche Bank archives are also successors commissioned Altes
shown here. Pop into the small Palais and a memorial statue of
museum shop and refresh your- the old Fritz, surrounded by
self with a coffee from the his buildings. Christian Daniel
museum caf. d Unter den Linden Rauch created the 13.5-m (44-ft)
1315 Map K4 11am8pm Tue-Thu, high equestrian bronze figure in
11am10pm Wed (030) 202 09 30 1840. It portrays Frederick the
Admission charge, free on Mon Great wearing his trademark tri-
corn hat and coronation mantle
Forum Fridericianum and carrying a walking stick. The
The historic structures of statue has always turned its back
this architectural complex in to the east but wags claim that
Unter den Linden are among the the East German government
finest attractions in Berlin. From mistakenly set up the figure the
1740, Frederick the Great com- wrong way around.
missioned the prestigious Early- d Unter den Linden and Bebelplatz
Neo-Classical buildings for the Map K4
Frederick as Architect
Forum Fridericianum was not
only Frederick the Greats
memorial to himself, it also
ensured that Unter den Linden
became one of the greatest
boulevards in Europe. The king,
who favoured a strict Neo-
Classical style, drew up the plans
for the Staatsoper and other
buildings himself, and
Deutsche Guggenheim, Unter den Linden Knobelsdorff executed his ideas.
For more on Unter den Linden see pp1215 113

Left Inside the Konzerthaus Centre Deutscher Dom Right Front view of Altes Museum
Gendarmenmarkt building; concealed

This square, whose behind it is the French
strict layout is reminiscent Friedrichstadtkirche, a
of an Italian Renaissance church serving Berlins
piazza, is probably the most Huguenot community. The
beautiful in Berlin. To the left Deutscher Dom opposite,
and right of Schauspielhaus built in 1708 on the south side
todays Konzerthaus stand of the square for the Reformed
the twin towers of Deutsch- Protestant Church, did not
er and Franzsischer Dom Figure of Athena in receive its first tower
(German and French Pergamonmuseum until 1785. Today it has an
cathedrals), dating back to exhibition on democracy
the late 18th century. in Germany. d Mitte Map L4
Gendarmenmarkt, named after a
regiment of gens darmes sta- Museumsinsel
tioned nearby, was built at the Museum Island, a UNESCO
end of the 17th century, as a World Heritage Sight, is one of
market square. The Schauspiel- the most important complexes
haus (theatre) on the north side of museums in the world, hold-
of the square, built by Schinkel in ing major arts collections and
181821, was used as a theatre imposing full-scale ancient struc-
until 1945. Damaged in World War tures. Based here are the Perga-
II, it was reopened as Konzerthaus monmuseum, the Alte National-
(concert hall) in 1984. A statue of galerie (the old national gallery),
the playwright Friedrich Schiller Bodemuseum and Altes and
stands in front of the building. Neues Museum. The Neues
Franzsischer Dom, to its right, Museum will reopen in 2008 (see
is a prestigious Late-Baroque pp2023 and 469). d Pergamon-
museum, Bodestr. 13 Map J5
The Huguenots in Berlin 10am6pm TueSun, till 10pm Thu (030)
In 1685, the Great Elector issued 20 90 55 55 d Alte Nationalgalerie
the famous Edict of Potsdam, Bodestr. 13 Map J5 106pm
granting asylum in Berlin to TueSun, until 10pm Thu (030) 20 90 55
around 20,000 Huguenots, who 66 Admission charge
were persecuted in their native
France because of their
Protestant faith. Skilled academ-
ics and craftsmen, they moulded
the social and cultural life
of the city and enriched Berlin
with the French art of living.
Today, still, the French community
worships in the Friedrichstadt-
kirche on Gendarmenmarkt.
Antique vase in the Pergamonmuseum
114 Konzerthaus in Gendarmenmarkt: www.konzerthaus.de

A Day of Culture
Morning
Unter den Linden begins
at Pariser Platz in front of

Brandenburger Tor (see
pp89). Stroll eastwards
Quartier 206 in Friedrichstrae
along the wide avenue,
past Hotel Adlon Berlin.
Friedrichstrae Then turn right into Wil-
Friedrichstrae has risen to helmstrae (see p116),
some of the glamour and vibran- the former political nerve
centre. On the right-hand
cy it possessed before World
side you will pass the
War II. Today, Berlins Fifth Avenue new building of the British
once again boasts elegant shops, Embassy. In Behrenstrae
and some upmarket restaurants you can assess progress
and cafs, which have opened in the construction of the
Holocaust-Denkmal.
here in recent years. Especially
Turn left into Franzsische
worth visiting are the three Strae, which will take
Quartiers 205, 206 and 207 with- you to Friedrichstrae.
in the Friedrichstadtpassagen, Here you can shop at the
containing the Galeries Lafayette Galeries Lafayette (see
p119) or in the Depart-
store and Department Store 206
ment Store 206 (see
respectively. At the northern p119). After your shopping
end of the street is the famous expedition, you may wish
Dussmann store (books, music, to recover over a snack
events), S-Bahn station Friedrich- lunch in the gourmet
food department, which is
strae, as well as the former
situated in the basement
entertainment district with the of Galeries Lafayette.
Friedrichstadtpalast, today
housing the Metropoltheater. Afternoon
d Mitte Map JL4 Before you continue your
exploration of Friedrich-
Holocaust-Denkmal strae, make a detour to
Gendarmenmarkt with its
This new memorial, officially
Konzerthaus as well as
called Memorial to the Killed Deutscher and Franzsi-
Jews of Europe, serves as scher Dom. From here
Germanys national Holocaust return to Friedrichstrae
memorial. After years of debate, and its modern buildings.
Walk down the street to
US star architect Peter Eisenman
Leipziger Strae. Turn left
completed the memorial in 2005. into Leipziger Strae, and
It is comprised of a large field on the left you will see the
with dark grey steles of varying giant structure of the for-
heights up to 2 m (6 ft) high, mer Ministry of Aviation.
Today the Federal Ministry
which symbolize the six million
of Finance is based here.
Jews and others murdered by From here you can
the Nazis in their concentration retrace your steps to
camps between 1933 and 1945. Unter den Linden or return
Underneath the memorial there to Gendarmenmarkt.
An evening meal at the
is an information centre which
Asian restaurant Lang-
explains the causes and history hans (see p121) is highly
of the genocide. recommended.
d Ebertstr. Map L3
115
Left The former Ministry of Aviation, Wilhelmstrae Centre Hotel Adlon Right Stadtschloss
Nazi Architecture corner of Vossstrae and Wil-

One of few surviving examples of helmstrae. It was blown up in
the monumental architectural 1945. Behind the Reichskanzlei
style favoured by Fascists is the was the so-called Fhrerbunker
former Reichsluftfahrtministerium where Adolf Hitler committed
(Ministry of Aviation), commis- suicide on 30 April 1945 (today it
sioned by Hermann Gring in is a playground). Of the historic
19356 from Ernst Sagebiel. At buildings, only the former
the time, the monotonous sand-
Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Min-
stone building was the worlds
largest and most modern office istry of Aviation) remains. Today,
block,strengthened by steel gird- Wilhelmstrae is lined by modern
ers against aerial attack. After office buildings; and the British
reunification, the Treuhandanstalt Embassy, built in 2000 by
was based here; today it houses Michael Wilford, creates a link
the Federal Ministry of Finance. with the international importance
of this street. d Between Unter den
Linden and Leipziger Str. Map K/L3
Wilhelmstrae
In imperial Berlin, the centre Schlossplatz
of the German Empires govern- Today Schlossplatz seems
mental power was based in Wil- deserted, but once the Stadt-
helmstrae. Around 100 years schloss (town residence) of the
later, nothing remains of the Hohenzollerns stood here. It was
prestigious historic blown up by the East
buildings which repre- German government in
sented the equivalent 195051, and today
of No. 10 Downing just a few historic
Street in London or fragments of the
Quai dOrsay in Paris. original remain.
All political decisions The debate about the
were made at Wilhelm- reconstruction of the
strae: both Chancellor palace began in the
(No. 77) and President early 1990s and, in
(No. 73) of the German 1993, a spectacular
Reich lived here in old model was built; how-
town houses. Their gar- British Embassy, ever the costs are pro-
dens became known Wilhelmstrae hibitive and make it
as ministerial gardens. Adolf unlikely that this venture will
Hitler had the street systemati- ever succeed. Remains include
cally developed into the nerve the faade of the doorway where
centre of Nazi power. The Neue Karl Liebknecht supposedly pro-
Reichskanzlei (the Chancellors claimed the Socialist Republic in
office) was built in 19379 to 1918. The portal has been incor-
plans by Albert Speer, at the porated into the former Staats-
116
ratsgebude on A Day of Culture
the south side
of the square. Morning
On its eastern Start your stroll on Unter
side, Schloss- den Linden, at the corner

platz is bordered of Friedrichstrae. Once
this spot was one of
by the Palast
Berlins liveliest street
der Republik junctions, and there is still
Portal of the (palace of the plenty to see today. For
Staatsratsgebude republic), the breakfast or refreshments,
former seat of pop into Caf Einstein
(see p121). Afterwards
the East German parliament. The
continue eastwards along
building, dating from 1976, will the boulevard; you will
be torn down in the near future. pass numerous fascinating
d Mitte Map G3, K5 buildings, for example, on
the right, the Deutsche
Bank with the Kunst-
Museum fr
museum in Deutsche
Kommunikation Guggenheim (see p49).
The worlds largest Post Office From here you can already
Museum was opened as early as see the equestrian statue
1872. Its excellent displays docu- of Frederick the Great,
which marks the centre
ment the history of communica-
of Forum Fridericianum
tion from the Middle Ages via (see p113). This area as
the first postage stamps to well as Bebelplatz are
todays satellite technology. Par- right in the centre of Old
ticularly worth seeing are a blue Berlin, with Staatsoper,
St Hedwigskathedrale,
and a red Mauritius stamp, one
Altes Palais and Humboldt-
of the first telephone installa- Universitt. You could
tions (dating back to the year have lunch in one of the
1863) and three talking robots restaurants based in the
who interact with the visitors. Opernpalais.
Children young and old
Afternoon
always enjoy the Computer-
In the afternoon continue
galerie, where they can learn and
your stroll along Unter den
gain new insights while playing. Linden and, if you like,
d Leipziger Str. 16 Map L4 9am5pm make a detour to the
TueFri, 11am7pm Sat, Sun north to Museumsinsel
(030) 20 29 40 Admission charge (see p114). Afterwards, if
you still feel energetic
enough, you could visit
Berliner Dom. Opposite
the cathedral you will see
Schlossplatz (see p115);
its architectural future is
still being hotly debated.
You could round off your
day of sightseeing in Mitte
with a delicious evening
meal at Dressler Unter
den Linden (see p121).
To get there, just retrace
your steps and return
along Unter den Linden
in a westerly direction.
Museum fr Kommunikation at night
Museum fr Kommunikation Berlin: 117

www.museumsstiftung.de/berlin/d211_rundgang.asp
Left The Trnenpalast Centre At the Mohrenkolonnaden Right Admiralspalast
Best of the Rest

Trnenpalast Berlins most famous stations.
The Palace of Tears witnessed In 196189, it was the principal
much heartbreak, when Western crossing point between East and
visitors parted from family or West. d Friedrichstr. Map J4
friends in the East after a visit.
Today, the former checkpoint at Admiralspalast
S-Bahn station Friedrichstrae is The old Admirals Palace is
a concert hall. d Friedrichstr./Reichs- the only remaining theatre in
tagsufer 17 Map J4 (030) 20 61 00 11 Berlins erstwhile entertainment
district. Today it is the home of the
Russian Embassy Metropoltheater (currently closed).
This giant building, typical of d Friedrichstr. 101102 Map J4
Stalinist wedding cake style,
was erected in 194853 on the Palais am Festungsgraben
site of the old Tsarist embassy. The Baroque palace of 1753
d Unter den Linden 6365 Map K3 has maintained its original ele-
gant interior. d Am Festungsgraben 1
WMF-Haus Map K5 (030) 208 40 00
The former headquarters of
the porcelain and cutlery manu- Komische Oper
facturer WMF has remarkable One of Germanys most
faades, decorated with beautiful magnificent opera houses, dating
mosaics. d Leipziger Str., corner from 1892, is concealed behind a
Mauerstr. Map L3 modern faade. All performances
are in German. d Behrenstr. 5557
Alte Kommandantur Map K3 (030) 47 99 74 00
An impressive classicist
building designed by Schinkel Mohrenkolonnaden
and rebuilt in 2004 to house the The Neo-Classical arcades,
Berlin offices of Bertelsmann. designed in 1787 by Carl G.
d Unter den Linden 1 Map K5 Langhans, originally adorned a
bridge across the city moat.
Maxim-Gorki-Theater d Mohrenstr. 37b u. 4041 Map L4
The renowned theatre was
once Berlins Singakademie, or su
singing school. Paganini and Friedrichstr.
Liszt, among others, performed

Unter den
here. d Am Festungsgraben 2 (030) Linden s
u Franzsische
Str.
20 22 11 29 Map K5 Hausvogtei-
u platz
Stadtmitte u
S-Bahnhof Friedrichstrae
Remodelled several times,
this has always been one of
118 Trnenpalast: www.traenenpalast.de

Left Outside Kunstsalon Centre Fashion at Galeries Lafayette Right In Quartier 206
Shops
Galeries Lafayette venirs are available from Herr
Berlins most attractive shop Giebel, who knows the town like
is the only branch of the luxury no one else. d Unter den Linden 40
French store in Germany. Here Map K4 (030) 20 45 38 42
you will find elegant fashion and
gourmet foods on the lower Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann
level. d Friedrichstr. 7678 Map L4 This multi-media store is a
10am8pm MonSat (030) 20 94 80 mecca for culture-junkies, offer-
ing everything from good books
Department Store 206 to computer games, and also
Stylish Berliners shop here boasting a large section of
for up-to-the-minute and top-of- classical music on CD. The store
the-range designer clothes. is also open in the evening. d
d Friedrichstr. 71 Map L4 (030) 20 94 Friedrichstr. 90 Map K4 (030) 202 50
62 93
Budapester Schuhe
Quartier 206 Small branch of a chain,
Apart from the department selling quality mens shoes.
stores, many top designer d Friedrichstr. 81 Map L4 (030) 20 38
shops, such as Gucci and DKNY, 81 10
are based in Friedrichstadtpas-
sagen. d Friedrichstr. Map L4 Escada
Stylish (and expensive)
Kunstsalon bespoke tailors for ladies, boast-
This shop offers art to touch ing a fantastic selection of luxuri-
and take home, including all ous materials. d Friedrichstr. 176179
sorts of paraphernalia (old cos- Map L4 (030) 238 64 04
tumes, for example), make ideal
souvenirs. d Unter den Linden 41 Juwelier Ren Kern
Map K4 (030) 20 45 02 03 Well-known jeweller, selling
quality watches and jewellery in
Fassbender & Rausch this luxury outlet. d Friedrichstr.
Giant chocolate sculptures of 176179 Map L4 (030) 204 10 49
Reichstag and Brandenburger Tor
adorn the windows and tempt Friedrichstr.
s u
visitors into this shop, a choca-
Unter den
holics paradise. d Charlottenstr. 60 Linden
s
Map L4 (030) 20 45 84 40 Franzsische Str. u
u Hausvogtei-
platz
Berlin Story Wieland Giebel Stadtmitte u
Almost anything youve ever
wanted to read about Berlin as
well as photographs and sou-
119
Left Caf LebensArt Centre Lindenlife Right Brauerei Lemke in an S-Bahn arch
Pubs & Bars

Newton Bar Caf Einstein
One of the trendiest bars in Small and cosy branch of the
town. Sink into the deep leather Caf in the western city, serving
armchairs and sip your cocktails, excellent wines and Austrian
surrounded by Helmut Newtons specialities. d Unter den Linden 42
photographs of proud women. Map K4 7am1am MonSun
d Charlottenstr. 57 Map L4 (030) 204 36 32
10am3am daily (030) 20 61 29 99
Stndige Vertretung
Lindenlife The name harks back to the
This stylish caf also permanent West German repre-
combines a wine bar and small sentation in East Berlin, but the
restaurant. It is a meeting place drinks are bang up to date.
for politicians and journalists as d Schiffbauerdamm 8 Map J3
well as tourists. d Unter den Linden 10am1am daily (030) 282 39 65
4460 Map K3 11am11pm daily
(030) 206 29 03 33 Label 205
This elegant underground bar
Operntreff offers cool drinks and piano music.
Completely furnished in d Quartier 205, Friedrichstr. 68 Map L4
leather, this small but elegant bar 10am10pm daily (030) 20 94 45 45
in the historic Opernpalais is an
ideal stopping-off point for night Brauerei Lemke
owls, after an evening at the Atmospheric pub under the
opera. d Unter den Linden 5 Map K3 S-Bahn arches; courtyard. d Dirk-
8am1am WedSun (030) 20 26 83 senstr. S-Bahn arch No. 143 Map J5
noon1am daily (030) 24 72 87 27
Emil
Caf, pub and restaurant, Windhorst
especially popular with actors. Trendy cocktail bar classy,
d Schumannstr. 15 Map J3 elegant, good. d Dorotheenstr. 65
5pm1am daily (030) 559 74 54 Map K3 from 6pm MonFri, from 9pm
Sat (030) 20 45 00 70
LebensArt
A caf rather than a pub or s u
Friedrichstr.
bar, offering breakfast and
afternoon cakes, this is one of
Unter den
the few places open at night on Linden s
u Franzsische Str.
Unter den Linden. u Hausvogtei-
platz
d Unter den Linden 69a Map K4 Stadtmitte u
8am11pm MonThu, 7am10pm Fri,
s
9am1am Sat, 10ammidnight Sun u Potsdamer
Platz
(030) 229 00 18
120
Price Categories

Left Outside Dressler Unter den Linden Right Theodor Tucher
Restaurants & Cafs

Margaux Lutter & Wegner
A newcomer among Berlins Try this Austrian restaurant
top restaurants, Margaux serves for the tastiest Wiener Schnitzel
sophisticated French-German and potato salad in Berlin.
nouvelle cuisine. d Unter den Linden d Charlottenstr. 56 Map L4 11am
78 Map K3 noon2:30pm, 710:30pm 2am daily (030) 202 954 17
TueSat (030) 22 65 26 11
Theodor Tucher
Borchardt A nice little restaurant with
Best of Berlins trendy new book store next to the Branden-
restaurants, offering good French burg Gate, serving hearty Berlin
food in an historic setting. d Fran- food. d Pariser Platz 6a Map K3
zsische Str. 47 Map K4 11:30am1am 9am1am daily (030) 22 48 94 63
daily (030) 81 88 62 62
Malatesta
Vau Gourmet Italian food in
The chef, Kolja Seeberg, stylish, minimalist surroundings.
deserves his Michelin star with d Charlottenstr. 59 Map L4
his top-class German food. noon11:30pm MonSat, 211:30pm
Attractive interior. d Jgerstr. 5455 Sun (030) 20 94 50 70
Map L4 noon2:30pm, 710:30pm
MonSat (030) 202 97 30 Refugium
A cosy cellar restaurant next
Seasons to the French cathedral. Inter-
The unimaginative name of national and German dishes.
this restaurant in the Four Sea- d Gendarmenmarkt 5 Map L4
sons Hotel does little justice to noon11pm daily (030) 229 16 61
the sophisticated dishes that are
served here. The crackling open Aigner
fire in the dining room makes Original Viennese restaurant
each meal a special experience. serving typically Austrian food.
d Charlottenstr. 49 Map K4 d Franzsische Str. 25 Map K4
6:30am2:30pm, 611:30pm daily (030) 203 75 18 50
(030) 20 33 63 63
Friedrichstr.
s u
Dressler Unter den Linden
In season, this French Unter den
Linden
brasserie is an excellent place s
Franzsische Str. u
for oysters. At other times, the u Hausvogtei-
platz
inexpensive three-course set Stadtmitte u
menu is recommended.
d Unter den Linden 39 Map K3
8am1am daily (030) 204 44 22

Around Town Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel
Left Hackesche Hfe Centre Tacheles, Oranienburger Strae Right In the Hackesche Hfe
Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel
T HE SCHEUNENVIERTEL, literally the barn quarter, Berlins former Jewish

quarter, has experienced a unique revival in recent years. Originally, the
thriving Jewish community lived in neighbouring Spandauer Vorstadt, beyond
the city limits, while the Scheunenviertel was better known as a red-light
district. The Nazis, however, applied the name of Scheunenviertel to both
areas, in order to tarnish the Jews. After World War II the district was much
neglected and gradually fell into decay. Today, many of the historic
merchants yards and narrow side streets have been restored, reviving the
Scheunenviertels unique and lively character. Many pubs and restaurants,
galleries and shops are now based here and the area has become very
fashionable with locals and visitors alike, especially at night. The tragic
history of its former inhabitants, however, remains unforgotten.
Sights
1 Oranienburger Strae 7 Dorotheenstdtischer
Friedhof
2 Neue Synagoge
3 Hackesche Hfe 8 Brecht-Weigel-
Gedenksttte
4 Sophienstrae
9 Gedenksttte Groe
5 Tacheles Hamburger Strae
6 Museum fr Naturkunde 0 Postfuhramt
Neue Synagoge
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HA R DT Z I E G E LST R AS S E ZIEG ELSTR. -H AC K E S C H E R R C K S E N S T R A S S E

STR ASSE
ALB
M-
Mitte MONBIJOU-
BI JO
RB AU REIN MAR K T DI
AM
UN TE R. PLATZ R . ID E
REC
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MON
G S
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HTS
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AR DT B E RTO LT- S p ree brcke Markt HS
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REIN SE B R E C HT- Monbijou- RO
C
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P L AT Z brcke
1000 500 yards 0 metres 500 1000
122
Oranienburger Strae typical of this style: geometric
Like no other street, Oranien- patterns are laid out in vibrant
burger Strae, in the centre of colours on glazed tiles, covering
the old Scheunenviertel, symbol- the entire building from the foun-
izes the rise and fall of Jewish dations to the guttering. What

culture in Berlin. Traces of its had lain in ruin after 1945 has
Jewish past are visible all along now been carefully restored,
the street, such as the Neue and forms today one of the most
Synagoge and several Jewish popular nightlife centres in the
cafs and restaurants (see p129). city. Restaurants and cafs (see
Some 18th- and 19th-century p1289), the Variet Chamleon
buildings bear witness to the (see p56), galleries and small
streets former splendour the shops have all settled in this
Postfuhramt (see p125), for area. d Rosenthaler Str. 4041 Map I5
example, or the house at No.
7172, built in 1789 by Christian Sophienstrae
Friedrich Becherer for the Grand Narrow Sophienstrae has
Lodge of the Freemasons of been beautifully restored and
Germany. d Mitte, between Friedrich- now looks exactly as it did in the
str. and Rosenthaler Str. Map J4/5 late 18th century. A number of
shops and arts and crafts work-
Neue Synagoge shops are now based in the
The New Synagogue, built modest buildings and courtyards.
in 185966, was once the largest Close by stands Sophienkirche,
in Europe. In 1938, it managed the first Protestant parish church,
to survive Reichskristallnacht founded by Queen Sophie Luise
thanks to the vigilance of a brave in 1712. Next to the Baroque
guard, but it was damaged by church is a small cemetery with
bombs during World War II. some 18th-century tombs.
Behind the Moorish faades are d Groe Hamburger Str. 29 Map I5
a prayer room and the Centrum
Judaicum. d Oranienburger Str. 2930
Map J4/5 10am6pm SunThu,
10am2pm Fri (030) 28 40 13 16 Free
admission
Hackesche Hfe
Berlins largest and most
attractive group of restored
commercial buildings, Hackesche
Hfe extends between Oranien-
burger and Rosenthaler Strae
and up to Sophienstrae in the
east. The complex of buildings,
comprised of nine interconnect-
ing courtyards, was designed
around the turn of the 20th
century by Kurt Berndt and
August Endell, two leading
exponents of Art Nouveau.
The first courtyard especially
features elements that are The old Sophienkirche
123
Left Bertolt Brechts study Right Memorial on Groe Hamburger Strae
Tacheles Stler (180065) and Johann

The ruins of the former Wil- Gottfried Schadow (17641850).
helm-Einkaufspassagen, one of d Chausseestr. 126 Map F2 summer:
Berlins most elegant shopping 8am8pm daily; winter: 8am4pm daily
centres dating back to the turn
of the 20th century, have been Brecht-Weigel-
transformed by artists into Gedenksttte
an alternative arts centre. Bertolt Brecht, one of the
It now houses work- 20th centurys greatest
shops and cafs and playwrights, lived here
offers a regular pro- with his wife, Helene
gramme of events. Weigel, from 19536.
d Oranienburger Str. 5456a Original furnishings are
Map F3 (030) 282 61 85 on display alongside docu-
Schinkel, Dorotheen- ments and photographs.
Museum fr stdtischer Friedhof There is also an archive of
Naturkunde his work. d Chausseestr. 125
The Museum of Natural History Map F2 10noon TueSat exc Thu;
one of the largest of its kind has 10noon & 57pm Thu; 9:30am2pm Sat;
the worlds largest dinosaur skele- 11am6pm Sun (030) 283 05 70 44
ton: a brachiosaurus found in Tanza- Admission charge
nia. Also displayed are fossils,
meteorites and minerals (see also Jewish Berlin
p47). d Invalidenstr. 43 Map F2
In the 19th century, Berlin had a
(030) 20 93 85 91 Admission charge population of 200,000 Jews, the
largest such community in Ger-
Dorotheenstdtischer many. Apart from wealthier Jews
Friedhof in the west of the city, it also
Many celebrities have found their attracted many impoverished
final resting place in this charm- Jews from Poland and Russia
ing cemetery, dating back to who settled in Spandauer
Vorstadt. One part of the district,
1762. To the left of the entrance
the criminal red-light district, was
are the graves of Heinrich Mann also known as Scheunenviertel.
(18711950) and Bertolt Brecht Nazi propaganda used the name
(18981956); further along stand to denote the entire Spandauer
the pillar-like tombstones of the Vorstadt, in order to tarnish the
philosophers Johann Gottlieb Jews by association. Today, the
Fichte (17621814) and Georg Wil- Jewish quarter is still known
helm Friedrich Hegel (17701831). under its wrong name as
Scheunenviertel, although very
On Birkenallee (left off the main
few Jews live here now. Only
path) you can see the graves of some 5,000 Jewish Berliners
master builder Karl Friedrich managed to survive between
Schinkel (17811841) and the 193345 in hide-outs.
architects Friedrich August
124 Museum fr Naturkunde: www.museum.hu-berlin.de

Gedenksttte A Day in
Groe Hamburger Strae Scheunenviertel
Before 1939, this was one of the
most important Jewish streets, Morning
with several Jewish schools, the Take the S-Bahn to Fried-

oldest Jewish cemetery in Berlin richstrae and explore this
and an old peoples home. The road, Berlins former enter-
tainment district. Walk
latter achieved tragic fame during north along the street up
the Nazi period the SS used it to Reinhardstrae, and
as a detention centre for Berlin turn left here towards
Jews before transporting them Bertolt-Brecht-Platz. Con-
to the concentration camps. A tinue south to Albrecht-
strae to the Berliner
simple monument commemo- Ensemble (see p126).
rates thousands of Jews who Once you have admired
were sent to their death from the theatre where the
here. To the left of the home great playwright used to
is a Jewish school, on the site work, you could make a
detour to visit his home,
of an earlier school founded in Brecht-Weigel-Gedenk-
1778 by the Enlightenment sttte in Chausseestrae.
philosopher Moses Mendelssohn The best way to get there
(172986). To the right of the is on foot walk along
monument is the Jewish ceme- Chausseestrae. If you
remain in Friedrichstrae
tery, where some 12,000 Berlin and turn right behind Fried-
Jews were buried between 1672 richstadtpalast into Ora-
and 1827. In 1943, the Nazis nienburger Strae (see
almost completely destroyed the p123), you will get to the
cemetery. Only a few Baroque heart of the fashionable
Scheunenviertel. At the
tombs, or masebas, survived; corner of the street rises
these are now embedded into the arts centre Tacheles,
the small original cemetery and a few steps to the
wall. The place presumed to be east the shiny golden
Moses Mendelssohns tomb is dome of the Neue Syna-
goge will come into view
marked by a new monument. (see pp45 and 123).
d Groe Hamburger Str. Map J5
Afternoon
Postfuhramt Before exploring the Sche-
The richly ornamented Post- unenviertel district, you
fuhramt (post should take some refresh-
ments; not far from the
office transport
Synagogue is Caf Oren
department) (see p129). Walk along
dates back to Tucholskystrae, then turn
the 19th centu- right into Auguststrae.
ry. It is now an Here you will find some
of the most attractive
exhibition hall
courtyards, for example
for alternative Kunsthof at the corner
photography of Gartenstrae. Return
and art shows along Auguststrae to
and a centre Gedenksttte Groe
Hamburger Strae and
for perform-
the Hackesche Hfe (see
ance art. p123) to shop and for an
Frieze on the Post- d Oranienburger evening meal.
fuhramt faade Str. 35 Map J4
125
Left Inside Sophienkirche Centre The Berliner Ensemble Right The Deutsches Theater
Best of the Rest

Charit Monbijoupark
Many important physicians, A small park, in which once
such as Rudolf Virchow and stood the little Monbijou palace.
Robert Koch, worked and taught It is now an attractive green
at this world-famous hospital, space for a rest. d Oranienburger
founded in 1710. A Museum of Str./Spree Map J5
Pathology has some 23,000
remarkable exhibits on display. Auguststrae
d Schumannstr. 2021 Map J3 The area round this road is
Museum fr Pathologie 10am5pm one of the closest to the original
TueSun, 10am7pm Wed (030) 450 53 old Scheunenviertel, featuring old
61 56 interior courtyards and many
buildings that have not yet been
Alte and Neue restored. d Between Oranienburger
Schnhauser Strae and Rosenthaler Str. Map G2
Alte Schnhauser Strae is one
of the oldest streets in Span- Koppenplatz
dauer Vorstadt. The lively road is In this small square, a monu-
still characterized by a colourful ment of a table and upturned
jumble of traditional and trendy chair recall the expulsion of the
new shops. d Hackescher Markt Jews. d Near Auguststr. Map G2
Map J5
Sophienkirche
Deutsches Theater This parish church, built in
Once Max Reinhardts place 1712, has managed to preserve
of work, the theatre widely its traditional Old Berlin charm. Be
considered the best German- sure to see the Baroque pulpit.
language theatre shows mainly d Groe Hamburger Str. 29 Map G2
German classics, often in new
interpretations. d Schumannstr. 13a Tucholskystrae
Map J3 (030) 28 44 12 25 This narrow street is typical
of the transformation of Sche-
Berliner Ensemble unenviertel trendy shops next
This theatre, established to decaying faades. d Map J4
in 18912 by Heinrich Seeling,
was the main venue for Bertolt
Brechts plays. d Bertolt-Brecht-Platz
Rosenthaler
1 Map J3 (030) 28 40 81 55 Platz u
Hochbunker Oranienburger
Tor u
Weinmeisterstr.
u
One of the last surviving s
Oranienburger
World War II bunkers. d Albrechtstr. Str. s
Hackescher
corner of Reinhardtstr. Map J3 Markt
126
Left Heckmann-Hfe Centre Sophienhfe Right The alternative Kunstwerke gallery
Old Courtyards
Sophie-Gips-Hfe Schulhof
Famous for the Hoffman art Time seems to have stood
collection, which is based here, still around 1900 in this court-
this former sewing machine fac- yard, today part of the districts
tory is a popular meeting place Kulturamt (cultural office).
for locals. d Sophienstr. 2122 d Auguststr. 21 Map G2
Map G3
Hof Joachimstrae
Sophienhfe The extensive courtyard of
The 19th-century red-brick the former Postfuhramt permits
artisans workshops have been a glimpse of the original faade
transformed into artists studios. of the building.
d Sophienstr. 1718 Map G3 d Joachimstr. 11 Map G2
Heckmann-Hfe Auguststrae 83
These lavishly restored A caf and an art gallery are
yards, the most elegant in Berlin, now based in the yard of a for-
attract visitors today with a mer sewing machine factory.
restaurant and fashionable d Auguststr. 83/Linienstr. 147 Map G2
clothes shops. d Between Rosen-
thaler and Tucholskystr. 34 Map J4 Kunsthof
A courtyard full of nooks
Kunstwerke and crannies, which is today
Large-scale installations by occupied by a number of work-
the resident artists are regularly shops, offices and cafs. Take
on display at the alternative a look at the richly ornamented
gallery space a recent example staircases. d Oranienburger Str. 27
was an entire artificial reed gar- Map J4/5
den. The courtyard also has a
caf in the conservatory. Sophienstr. 22 and 22a
d Auguststr. 69 Map G2 Two small inner courtyards,
partially planted, are surrounded
Rosenthaler Strae 37 by yellow and red brick walls.
This narrow unrestored alley- d Sophienstr. 2222a Map G3
way and courtyard gives a good
impression of how the entire
area once looked. Just enter via
Rosenthaler
the archway you will be able to Platz u
stroll around and drink a beer at

the tables on the left. Until 1933, Oranienburger
Tor u
Weinmeister-
u str.
a Jewish school for the blind was Oranienburger
Str. s
based in these buildings. Hackescher
Markt s
d Rosenthaler Str. 37 Map G2
127
Left The O & G club Centre Drinks at Yosoy Right Clrchens Ballhaus
Pubs, Bars & Discos

Riva Delicious Doughnuts
An elegant, cool and trendy An old favourite among the
bar free from hooligans, named hip new clubs of the district,
after an Italian soccer player. promising to take you back to
d Dircksenstr., arch 142 Map J5 the roots. Hot funk and soul
8pm4am daily (030) 24 72 26 88 rhythms are played. d Rosenthaler
Str. 9 Map J5 10pm5am ThuSun
Zucca (030) 28 09 92 79 Admission charge
A trendy coffee bar near
Hackesche Hfe. d S-Bahn-bgen Clrchens Ballhaus
1112/Hackescher Markt Map J5 One of Berlins last
9am3am MonFri, 10am3am Sat, Sun remaining dancehalls, where
(030) 24 72 12 12 dance-crazy Berliners of an
uncertain age dance the waltz
Ambulance and sing along. d Auguststr. 24
Enjoy some of the best and Map G2 from 7:30pm Wed, Fri, Sat
most affordable drinks in town in (030) 282 92 95
a relaxed hip hop atmosphere.
d Oranienburger Str. 27 Map J5 from Yosoy
7pm daily (030) 281 20 95 This attractively furnished
Spanish restaurant serves tasty
Komfort tapas, good wines and exciting
One of the newest and most cocktails which is why it is
fashionable dancing clubs in crowded till late into the night.
Berlin, playing R&B, house and d Rosenthaler Str. 37 Map J5 from
electro music to an elegant, 11am daily (030) 28 39 12 13
young urban crowd.
d Dircksenstr. 40 Map J5 from 10pm Kurvenstar
TueSat Curves rule in this 1960s-
style bar. Strong cocktails are
O&G lovingly prepared by the friendly
In a former socialist fruit staff. d Kleine Prsidentenstr. 3
store, O & Gs DJs create a flirta- Map G2 8pm3am TueSun
tious atmosphere for young Mitte (030) 28 59 97 10
lovers. d Oraienburger Str. 4849 Map
J5 6pm1am daily (030) 25 76 26 67
Rosenthaler
b-flat Platz u
Live jazz and occasionally

dance are on offer at this small Oranienburger
Tor u
Weinmeisterstr.
u
venue. d Rosenthaler Str. 13 Map J5 Oranienburger
Str. s
from 8pm daily (030) 283 86 835 s
Hackescher Markt
Admission charge
128
Price Categories

Left Outside Oxymoron in the Hackesche Hfe Right Brazil in the trendy Mitte district
Restaurants & Cafs

Pan Asia Oxymoron
Asian dishes, many with This small caf and restau-
seared fish and vegetables not rant in Hackesche Hfe, featuring
too spicy in minimalist 1960s chintz decoration, serves light
surroundings. d Rosenthaler Str. 38 German meals. d Rosenthaler Str.
Map J5 noonmidnight daily (030) 27 4041 Map J5 11am1am daily
90 88 11 (030) 28 39 18 85/86
Caf Oren Brazil

This popular caf serves Located in an historic house,
authentic vegetarian Jewish food one of Berlins best breakfast
in the heart of the Scheunen- restaurants also serves South
viertel. d Oranienburger Str. 28 Map American evening meals. Artsy
J4/5 10am1am MonThu, 10am alternative crowd. d Gormannstr. 22
midnight FriSun (030) 28 59 93 12 Map G2 1pm2am daily (030) 28 59
90 26
Schwarzenraben
Excellent pizzas and Italian Modellhut
specialities are on the menu at This new restaurant caters
this long restaurant, frequented to Berlins young fashion scene,
by East Berlins new elite. d Neue so it specializes in lean cuisine.
Schnhauser Str. 13 Map J5 6pm Stylish interior with gold walls
2am daily (030) 28 39 16 98 and ceiling. d Alte Schnhauser Str.
28 Map J5 noon1am MonSun
Maxwell (030) 97 00 50 58
Gourmet restaurant in a New-
York-style loft; unfussy fusion food. Barist
d Bergstr. 22 Map G2 noon3pm, A mixture of French, Italian
6pm2am MonFri (030) 280 71 21 and Austrian dishes are on offer
here. There is always a good
Beth-Caf atmosphere under the S-Bahn
Small Jewish caf of the arches; live jazz at weekends.
Adass-Jisroel community, serv- d Am Zwirngraben 1314 Map G2
ing Jewish snacks. d Tucholskystr. 10am3am daily (030) 24 72 26 13
40 Map J4 noon8pm ThuSun (030)
281 31 35 no credit cards
u
Hackescher Hof Rosenthaler
Platz
Best restaurant in Hackesche
Weinmeisterstr.
Hfe serves traditional German Oranienburger
Tor u u
fare. d Rosenthaler Str. 40 Map J5 Oranienburger Str. s Hackescher
7am2am MonFri, 9am2am Sat, Sun Markt s
(030) 283 52 93

Around Town Central Berlin: Around Alexanderplatz
Left Altar painting in Marienkirche Centre Frieze on the Mnze Right Knoblauch-Haus
Central Berlin: Around Alexanderplatz
T HE AREA AROUND ALEXANDERPLATZ is one of the oldest parts of the city;

it was here that the twin towns of Clln and Berlin merged to become
one town in the 13th century. Berlins oldest coherent quarter, the 18th-
century Nikolaiviertel and its medieval Nikolaikirche, the citys oldest church,
lie in the shadow of the TV tower, the pride of the capital of former East
Germany. On the occasion of Berlins 750th anniversary, in 1987, the East
German government had the Nikolaiviertel restored. Very few of the original
buildings are preserved, however; most houses were rebuilt from scratch.
Only a few paces away from the alleyways of Nikolaiviertel extends
Alexanderplatz, referred to by locals simply as Alex. Before World War II,
Alex defined the heartbeat of the city; after the ravages of war, it seemed
vast and a little forlorn. Although the giant square is now livelier again,
especially in summer, a chilly easterly wind still blows between the houses.
The vibrancy of the square, as described by Alfred Dblin in his novel Berlin
Alexanderplatz, is only slowly returning to the area. Much building and
reconstruction work is planned for Alex in the coming years.
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500 yards 0 metres 500
130 Alexanderplatz on a 24-hour webcam:

www.berlinonline.de/spass/live_kamera/.html/alex.html
Alexanderplatz Rathaus was built in
The vast, largely 18619, according
desolate square in the to plans by Hermann
centre of East Berlin, Friedrich Waesemann
called Alex by Berliners, on the site of an

was one of the most older town hall. It was
vibrant places in Berlin designed to demonstrate
before World War II and the power and the
no doubt it will be again glory of Berlin, and the
some day. Alfred Heraldic animal at the Rathaus architect took his
Dblin beautifully inspiration for the
captured the rhythm of the new governmental building from
city in his world-famous novel Italian Renaissance palazzi.
Berlin Alexanderplatz. Not much The building is also known
remains today of the once fren- as the Red Town Hall not
zied atmosphere, although there a reminder of its Socialist past,
is plenty of hustle and bustle but a reference to the red bricks
around the Kaufhof Galleria from Brandenburg province from
department store (see p135). which it is built (see also p38).
Originally, Alex was a cattle d Rathausstr. 15 Map K6 9am6pm
and wool market. Not many of MonFri (030) 90 26 0
the prewar buildings survived
only Berolinahaus and Alexander- Berliner Fernsehturm
haus, next to the historic S-Bahn The 365-m (1,197-ft) high
station Alexanderplatz, remain, TV tower is the tallest building
both dating back to 1929. The in Berlin, affording views of up
square was almost completely to 40 km (25 miles) in good
laid to waste in World War II, and weather. There is a viewing
most of the surrounding soulless platform at 203 m (666 ft). The
tower blocks were built in the Tele-Caf above rotates once
1960s. There are now plans to around its own axis every 30
build skyscrapers on Alexander- minutes. The tower, visible from
platz. d Mitte Map I6 afar, was erected in 19659 by
the East German government
Berliner Rathaus to signify the triumph of East
Berlins proud town hall Berlin, their capital.
is the office of the Governing d Panoramastr. 1a Map I6 MarOct:
Mayor and is the political centre 10am1am, NovFeb: 10ammidnight
of power in Greater Berlin. The Tel. (030) 242 33 33 Admission charge
Left Weltzeituhr (world time clock) on Alex Right Inside the Tele-Caf of Fernsehturm
Fernsehturm: www.berlinerfernsehturm.de 131

Left Nikolaikirche, Nikolaiviertel Centre Mrkisches Museum Right A street in Nikolaiviertel
Nikolaiviertel alabaster pulpit by Andreas

Around the medieval Nikolai- Schlter (1703) and the main
kirche (see p44), the small altar (1762) are particularly worth
Nikolaiviertel with its narrow seeing. The 15th-century Gothic
nooks and crannies, Old Berlin font and a 22-m (72-ft) long
restaurants and souvenir shops fresco, Der Totentanz (The Dance
is one of the most charming of Death) from 1485 are its two
parts of the city. The area oldest treasures. The church was
extending between the banks of a thorn in the side for the
the Spree River and Mhlen- East German govern-
damm was razed to the ment because the
ground in World War II. The cross on its tower is
East German authorities reflected in the TV
restored it after the war tower. d Karl-Liebknecht-
unfortunately not always Str. 8 Map K6 10am6pm
successfully: some MonSat, noon6pm Sun
houses were covered in (030) 242 44 67
prefabricated faades.
Knoblauchhaus was one Marx and Engels Marx-Engels-
of few to escape destruc- Forum
tion. Dating from 1835, it was Shortly after German reunifica-
the former home of the Knob- tion in 1989, the motto Next
lauch family (Neue Synagoge time it will all be different was
was designed by architect scrawled onto this monument to
Eduard Knoblauch). Today it Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels,
houses a museum depicting the fathers of Socialism. The
everyday life in Berlin, and bronze statues, created by Lud-
includes a fully furnished wig Engelhart in 1986, adorn the
apartment in the Biedermeier centre of a square. d Map K5/6
style. d Mitte, Knoblauchhaus: Poststr.
23 Map K6 10am6pm TueSun Mrkisches Museum
(030) 27 57 67 33 Admission charge Berlins municipal museum
displays architectural treasures
Marienkirche such as doorways and
Originally built in the head of one of the
1270, Marienkirche was horses from the top of
extensively remodelled the Brandenburg Gate,
in the 15th century. plus various items
Thanks to its Baroque relating to theatre and
church tower, designed music in Berlin. d Am
by Carl Gotthard Lang- Kllnischen Park 5 Map L6
hans in 1790, it is one 10am6pm TueSun,
of Berlins loveliest noon8pm Wed (030) 30
churches. Inside, the Altar in Marienkirche 86 60 Admission charge
132
A Day around
Alexanderplatz
Morning
Start your day by going to

Alexanderplatz (see p131)
where you can watch the
crowds in the square and
perhaps do a spot of
Ephraim-Palais shopping before strolling
to Marienkirche. Not far
Ephraim-Palais from here you can chill out
The curved Baroque palace, at Neptune Fountain and
then admire the statues of
built in 1766 for the wealthy Marx and Engels in the
merchant Nathan Veitel Heinrich Marx-Engels-Forum. From
Ephraim, was once regarded as there it is only a few steps
the citys most beautiful spot. to the Berliner Rathaus
Rebuilt after the demolition of (see p131). The basement
restaurant, or Ratskeller, is
the old palace, it is now a an excellent place for an
museum, showing paintings by early lunch, or you could
local artists. d Poststr. 16 Map K6 stroll to the nearby historic
10am6pm TueSat, noon8pm Wed Nikolaiviertel, and enjoy a
(030) 24 00 20 Admission charge meal, for example at
Reinhards (see p137),
which serves rustic fare.
Neptune Fountain
The green Neo-Baroque Afternoon
fountain, dating from 1895, Experience the historic
depicts the sea god Neptune. He ambience of the Nikolai-
is surrounded by four female viertel by exploring on
foot, if possible, its narrow
figures, symbolizing Germanys
alleyways. Nikolaikirche
Rhine, Weichsel, Oder and Elb and the Knoblauchhaus
Rivers. d Am Rathaus Map K6 are especially worth a
visit. From here walk back
Karl-Marx-Allee and to Alexanderplatz and if
the weather is nice take
Frankfurter Allee the lift up to the viewing
This road, lined by Soviet-style caf in the Berliner
buildings, was built as a show- Fernsehturm (see p131).
piece for Socialism in 194955. After refreshments you
Known then as Stalinallee, it can continue on foot or
take the U-Bahn from Alex
provided ultra-modern apart-
to Strausberger Platz to
ments. d Mitte/Friedrichshain admire the products of
Socialist architecture in
Frankfurter Allee (see
p133). On Grunerstrae
you will reach the oppo-
site bank of the Spree
River, where you can
immerse yourself In
Berlins municipal history
at the Mrkisches
Museum just around
the corner. In the evening,
go for a posh meal at
Ermelerhaus (see p137).
Neptune Fountain
Ephraim Palais and Mrkisches Museum: www.stadtmuseum.de 133

Left Stairs of the Stadtgericht Centre Palais Podewil Right Ruins of Franziskanerkirche
Best of the Rest

Stadtgericht Recently, it has become a venue
The imposing municipal for contemporary music concerts.
courts building boasts extrava- d Klosterstr. 67 Map K6
gant stairs in the lobby area,
with curved balustrades and Mrkisches Ufer
elegant columns. d Littenstr. 1315 This picturesque riverside
Map K6 8am6pm MonFri promenade gives a good impres-
sion of the city in the late 18th
Franziskanerkirche century. d Map L6
The ruins, remnants of a
13th-century Franciscan abbey, Heiliggeistkapelle
are surrounded by lawns, making The 13th-century hospital
this a picturesque spot for a rest church is a beautiful example of
in the city centre. Gothic brick architecture.
d Klosterstr. 74 Map K6 d Spandauer Str. 1 Map K6
Stadtmauer Ribbeckhaus
A fragment of the 13th14th- The only Renaissance house
century town wall that once in central Berlin, with a remark-
surrounded the twin towns of able, lavishly ornamented faade.
Berlin and Clln. d Waisenstr. Map K6 d Breite Str. 35 Map K5
Palais Podewil Palais Schwerin

The light yellow Baroque and Mnze
palace, built in 1701 4, has been Two adjoining buildings with ele-
transformed into Podewil, a cul- gant 18th-century faades: Palais
tural centre and one of the best Schwerin has beautiful window
places for contemporary music. cornices; Mnze (the mint) is
d Klosterstr. 6870 Map K6 11am decorated with a Neo-Classical
10pm MonSat (030) 24 74 96 frieze. d Molkenmarkt 13 Map K6
Parochialkirche Historic Port

This church, by s Hackescher Historic barges
Markt
Johann Arnold Nering su
and tugboats that
Alexanderplatz
and Martin Grnberg, once operated on
was one of Berlins the Spree River are
most charming Klosterstr. u moored here. Boat
Baroque churches, tours of the harbour
u
but the magnificent Jannowitz- s
brcke
can be booked.
interior was d Mrkisches Ufer Map
destroyed in World u Mrkisches
Museum L6 AprOct: 26pm
War II, and the bell TueFri; 11am6pm Sat,
tower collapsed. Sun (030) 21 47 32 56
134
Left Kaufhof Galeria faade Centre Inside Die Puppenstube Right Der Teeladen in Nikolaiviertel
Shops & Markets

Kaufhof Galeria U- and S-Bahnhof
The largest department store Alexanderplatz
in East Berlin stocks everything This bustling area has a selection
your heart could desire. Its food of shops for daily needs, plus
department entices customers late-opening fast food outlets
with a range of international and German imbisse (food
gourmet foods. d Alexanderplatz 9 stands). d Alexanderplatz Map J6
Map I6 9am8pm MonSat (030) 24
74 30 Berlin Carr
The snack bars based in
Die Puppenstube this small shopping arcade offer
Adorable dolls made from delicious foods that you can buy
porcelain and other materials or sample on the spot. d Karl-
await window shopper and buyer Liebknecht-Str. 13 Map I6
alike, as do mountains of cute
fluffy teddy bears. d Propststr. 4 Thringischer
Map K6 10am6:30pm MonSat, Weihnachtsmarkt
11am6pm Sun (030) 242 39 67 A vast array of stalls laden with
Christmas gifts and traditional
Teddys Spielwaren wooden decorations at the
An old-fashioned toy store, Thuringian Christmas Market. d
with probably the best selection Propststr. 8 Map K6 (030) 241 12 29
of teddy bears in the city. d
Propststr. 4 Map K6 (030) 247 82 44 Wohltatsche
Buchhandlung
Der Teeladen This large bookstore sells
A charming specialist tea remainders and second-hand
shop opposite Nikolaikirche, books, postcards and calendars
always steeped in delicious of Berlin, as well as videos, CDs
scents. d Propststr. 3 Map K6 and DVDs. d Alexanderplatz 2 Map I6
10am6:30pm MonSat (030) 242 32 55 9am8pm MonSat (030) 242 68 54
Hessisches s Hackescher
Markt
Saturn
Haus (Gallery s u Branch of a large
Alexanderplatz
of Antiques) multi-media chain,
One of the citys selling CDs, PC
best antique shops, u Klosterstr. games and all sorts
specializing in furni- of electronic games
ture. Expert advice is and entertainment.
guaranteed. d Alexanderplatz 8
d Poststr. 12 Map K5/6 u Mrkisches
Museum Map I6 9:30am8pm
11am6pm TueSun MonFri, 9am8pm Sat
(030) 208 25 54 (030) 24 75 16
Die Puppenstube: www.puppen1.de 135

Left Brauhaus Georgbru Centre Zur letzten Instanz Right Zum Nubaum
Pubs, Cafs & Beer Gardens

Zur letzten Instanz buffet start your tour of East
Berlins oldest pub dates Berlin here. d Panoramastr. 1a Map
back to 1621, and former guests K6 9am1am SunThu, 9am3am Fri, Sat
include Napoleon, the German (030) 24 04 76 30 no credit cards
artist Heinrich Zille and former
Soviet leader Mikhael Gorbachev. Greens
The interior is charmingly aged. Home-made cakes make
d Waisenstr. 1416 Map K6 the little caf diagonally opposite
noon1am MonSat, noon11pm Sun Nikolaikirche an irresistible stop-
(030) 24 25 528 ping point. d Poststr. 13 Map K6
11am1am MonFri, from 11am Sat,
Brauhaus Georgbru Sun (030) 24 72 60 41
This beer garden attracts not
only Bavarians in exile but also Caf Ephraims
many tourist groups. On offer are Coffee and cakes plus views
rustic fare and beer from both of the Spree River attract locals
Berlin and Munich. d Spreeufer 4 and tourists. d Spreeufer 1 Map K5/6
Map K5/6 summer: 10ammidnight noon10pm daily (030) 24 72 59 47
daily; winter: from noon MonFri
(030) 242 42 44 Telecaf Fernsehturm
Enjoy a snack in the skies
Zum Nubaum above Berlin; the caf does a full
A charming historic pub in rotation every 45 minutes. d
Nikolaiviertel, serving draft beers Panoramastr. 1a Map J6 10am
and Berliner Weie in summer. midnight daily (030) 242 33 33
d Am Nubaum 3 Map K6
noon11pm daily (030) 242 30 95 Zum Fischerkietz
Atmospheric pub-restaurant,
Sky Club serving beer and the speciality,
Its the gambling that draws Berliner Weie. d Fischerinsel 5
punters to Sky Club but, at night, Map L6 11ammidnight daily (030)
the views of Berlin 201 15 16
from the 42nd floor s Hackescher
Markt
are truly spectacular. s u Historische
d Dircksenstr. 98100 Alexanderplatz
Weinstuben
Map I/K5/6 from 11pm Klosterstr.
A tiny wine bar/pub
daily no credit cards u where you can enjoy
no phone beer and simple
u
Jannowitz- s
brcke
German food in
Alex Caf historic surroundings.
The Alex Caf, u Mrkisches
Museum d Poststr. 23 Map K6
below the TV tower, noonmidnight daily
has a huge breakfast (030) 242 41 07
136 Brauhaus Georgbru: www.georgbraeu.de

Price Categories

Left Restaurant Zur Gerichtslaube Right Reinhards in Nikolaiviertel
Restaurants
Reinhards Raabe-Diele
One of the most charming Restaurant in the basement
restaurants in the Mitte district. of the Baroque Ermelerhaus, with
Savour the international food, Berlin specialities such as mushy
surrounded by photos and paint- peas. d Mrkisches Ufer 10 Map L6
ings of famous contemporaries. noon11:30pm daily (030) 27 58 29 99
d Poststr. 28 Map K6 9ammidnight
daily (030) 24 25 295
Marcellino
Alexanderkeller The best Italian restaurant in
Set in a vaulted cellar and the area, with terrace and a large
sunny greenhouse annex, this inviting garden, offering shade on
rustic, child-friendly restaurant a hot summers day. Excellent
offers local and international fare. pasta dishes and specials.
d Kpenicker Str. 92 Map H4 7pm d Poststr. 28 Map K6 noonmidnight
midnight MonSat (030) 275 01 42 daily (030) 242 73 71
Zur Gerichtslaube La Riva

The former court building is A more upmarket Italian
a stylish setting for traditional venue in Nikolaiviertel, offering
Berlin specialities. d Poststr. 28 delicious pasta dishes, which can
Map K6 11:30am1am daily (030) be enjoyed outside in summer,
241 56 98 with a view of the Spree River.
d Spreeufer 2 Map K6 11am11pm
Le Provencal daily (030) 242 51 83
Baked oysters, scallop soup
and other seafood delicacies are Kartoffelhaus No. 1
served in this cosy family-run The menu is dominated by
French restaurant. d Spreeufer 3 fish and hearty meat dishes. d
Map K6 noonmidnight (030) 302 75 Poststr. 4 Map K6 noonmidnight daily
67 (030) 24 72 09 45
Zum s Hackescher
Markt
Mutter Hoppe
Paddenwirt su Delicious trad-
Alexanderplatz
A mecca for fans of itional German food,
traditional Berlin served in gigantic
food, including fried u portions, makes up
Klosterstr.
herrings and brawn, for the service,
and a strong beer. which is not always
d Nikolaikirchplatz 6 Mrkisches
Museum
the friendliest.
Map K6 noonmidnight u d Rathausstr. 21 Map K6
daily (030) 242 63 82 11:30ammidnight daily
no credit cards (030) 24 72 06 03

Around Town Prenzlauer Berg
Left The faades of restored houses in Hagenauer Strae Right The Jewish Cemetery
Prenzlauer Berg
B ERLINS PRENZLAUER BERG DISTRICT attracts locals and tourists like

virtually no other part of town because it has undergone the most
dramatic changes in recent years. Today, the old tenement blocks in the
former workers district of East Berlin have been taken over by cafs, pubs
and restaurants, and the nightlife is exciting and vibrant. Even when Berlin
was still a divided city, Prenzlauer Berg was an area favoured by artists and
an alternative crowd and it exerts a similar pull today. Many houses in the
quiet side streets have not yet been renovated and give a genuine
impression of what Berlin once used to be like. But Prenzlauer Berg is
undergoing a transformation. Since the reunification of the city, this quarter
has become one of the most popular residential areas. Many West Germans,
decried as yuppies by the locals, settle here, restore the buildings and buy
up the apartments. The standard of life in the district has risen noticeably.
Trendy bars, restaurants and cafs are clustered mainly around Kollwitzplatz
and Husemannstrae. And so a visit to Prenzlauer Berg today is at the same
time a journey back in time to the days immediately following reunification.
u s Schnhauser
Allee
W
IC
HE
RT
AGENER STRASSE
KOPENH ST
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0 SS
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E
TRA SSE
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SER
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Ludwig-Jahn
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DU
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Eberswalder
Str. STRA
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1 Kollwitzplatz
6
KNAA
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SCH
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RG 3 2 4 Schnhauser Allee
EE
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AS
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HUS EMA NN
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TER
SE STRA SSE
E
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SS
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4
SW
Kulturbrauerei
ST
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SE
KOLLWITZ-
SE
SSE
AS
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5 Jewish Cemetery
TR
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STR
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9 6
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OR
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.
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NB
CH
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7 Jdischer
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7 Zionskirche
PRE
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FE Friedhof SS
HR ZIO
NS
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ST
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8 Wasserturm
u Senefelderplatz
ER ST SS UE
RA E L K IR
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9 Synagoge Rykestrae
EG
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RA STR
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SS ME ASS
TZE E
RG
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STR 0 Gethsemanekirche
BE
AS
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WE
500 yards 0 metres 500
138 Prater: www.praterteam.de

a good impression of the old
Prenzlauer Berg especially the
buildings between Senefeld-
erplatz and Danziger Strae.
d Prenzlauer Berg Map H1/2

Prater
Kollwitz monument in Kollwitzplatz The Prater is one of the few
remaining entertainment
Kollwitzplatz complexes that were once
Once a quiet square, Koll- common in Germanys big cities.
witzplatz is today the noisy and It was built in 1837 just outside
turbulent heart of the district. All the original city gates, and was
around the green square, locals first jokingly called Prater by
congregate in numerous cafs, Berliners after its world-famous
pubs, bars and restaurants; in counterpart in Vienna. A concert
summer especially, the fun carries hall was added in 1857 and by
on till late at night. From the the turn of the century it had
appearance of the lavishly become so popular that the
restored faades it is hard to tell nickname stuck. Today, you can
that Kollwitzplatz was once one enjoy beer and food at the
of Berlins poorest areas. The restaurant of the same name
impoverished past of the district (see p143). d Kastanienallee 79
and its 19th-century tenement Map G2 6pmmidnight MonSat,
blocks is today only recalled by 10ammidnight Sun (030) 448 56 68
the name of the square. The artist
Kthe Kollwitz (18671945) (see Kulturbrauerei
p51) once lived and worked at The giant building originally
Kollwitzplatz 25 and spent much housed Berlins Schultheiss
of her life in the district, where brewery, one of the few remain-
she portrayed and attacked the ing breweries that once made
poverty of the local workers Prenzlauer Berg famous. The
in her sculptures, drawings complex of buildings, parts
and sketches. d Prenzlauer of which are more than 150
Berg Map H2 years old, was designed by
Franz Schwechten. It was
Schnhauser Allee completely restored in
Schnhauser Allee, 19979, and has become
3 km (2 miles) long, is a lively and popular
the main artery of the meeting point for
district. In the centre of locals. Restaurants,
the dual carriageway is cafs, pubs, a cinema,
the high-level viaduct of small shops and even a
U-Bahn line U 2, painted theatre have sprung up
green. Schnhauser within the complex of
Allee, which runs north- red and yellow brick
east from Rosa-Luxem- buildings and now line
burg-Platz to the edge of its numerous interior
town, is lined with shops courtyards. d Schnhauser
and a few pubs. Many Allee 3639 (entrance:
buildings have not yet Knaackstr. 97) Map H1
been restored and give Kulturbrauerei tower (030) 44 31 50
Vitra Design Museum: www.design-museum-berlin.de 139

Left A house in Kollwitzplatz Centre At the Prater Right In Kollwitzstrae
Prenzlberg or Grnderzeit (the years after the

Prenzlauer Berg? founding of the German Empire
Snobs today simply say in 1871) is one of the nicest
Prenzlberg when talking about ways to experience Prenzlauer
their quarter. But this name is Berg. Ancient-looking street
used mainly by West Berliners lamps and signs, cobbled
and West Germans who have streets, antiquated shop signs
recently moved here the real and a few atmospheric pubs take
name is Prenzlauer Berg, just as the visitor back to the late 19th
it is written. The supposed
century. d Between Wrther and
nickname is just a new-fangled
term for a district that Danziger Str. Map H1/2
has become fashionable
almost overnight. Zionskirche
Zionskirche, dating from
186673, and the square of the
Jewish Cemetery same name form a tranquil oasis
The small Jewish cemetery in the middle of the lively district.
is one of the most charming The Protestant church has always
cemeteries in the city. The been a political centre, too. During
tombstones lie or stand here the Third Reich, resistance groups
amid dense scrub and high trees. against the Nazi regime congre-
The cemetery was set up in gated here and, during the East
1827, when the former Jewish German period, the alternative
cemetery in Groe Hamburger environment library (an inform-
Strae was closed. Two of the ation and documentation centre)
famous personalities who have was established here. Church
found their final resting places and other opposition groups who
here are the painter Max Lieber- were active here played a decis--
mann (18471935) and the ive role in the political transform-
composer Giacomo Meyerbeer ation of East Germany in 198990,
(17911864). d Schn- which eventually led
hauser Allee 2325 Map H2 to reunification.
d Zionskirchplatz Map G2
Husemann- noon4pm Sun, 10am
strae 11am, 45pm Wed, 46pm
The East German Thu (030) 449 21 91
regime undertook a
perfect restoration of Wasserturm
this idyllic street for The unofficial
Berlins 750th anni- symbol of the district
versary celebrations. is the giant, 30-m (98-
A stroll through the ft) high Water Tower
leafy roads lined with in Knaackstrae, built
houses from the Zionskirche in 1877 as a water
140 www.berlin.de/home/TouristCenter/Sightseeing/Sehenswuerdigkeiten/
deutsch/Prenzlauer_Berg/juedfriedhofpberg.html
reservoir, but shut down in 1914. A Day in
The engine house in the tower Prenzlauer Berg
was used as an unofficial prison
by the SA in 193345 a period Morning
recalled by a commemorative Set off from U-Bahn

plaque. The tower stands on station Senefelderplatz
Windmhlenberg (windmill hill), one of the lively spots in
where some of the windmills Prenzlauer Berg. From
that had made Prenzlauer Berg here, explore the old
tenement blocks and
famous in the 19th century once backyards. Now continue
stood. Today the round brick in a westerly direction
building has been converted into along Fehrbelliner Strae
trendy apartments. to Zionskirchplatz with its
eponymous church. There
are numerous cafs on the
Synagoge Rykestrae square, such as Commode,
The synagogue, built in 1904, where you could stop for a
is one of the few Jewish places of capuccino. Continue along
worship to have survived Reichs- Zionskirchstrae, then turn
kristallnacht on 9 November left into Kastanienallee.
This is one of the most
1938, the violent destruction of colourful streets in the
Jewish shop premises by the quarter. At the end of the
Nazis. The historic interior of the street you could pop into
synagogue was built from red Prater (see p143); now
bricks in the shape of a basilica. turn right into Oderberger
Strae, one of the best
Today it is part of an apartment preserved streets of the
block. d Rykestr. 53 Map H2 by district. Continue along
prior arrangement (030) 442 59 31 Srzedzkistrae in an
easterly direction until you
Gethsemanekirche reach Husemannstrae.
Have a good look around
Outside this red-brick the Old Berlin streets,
church, dating back to 18913, you may find something
East German secret police beat interesting to buy.
up peaceful protesters. It was Afternoon
the starting point for the collapse
You could have lunch
of the East German regime. at one of the many
d Stargarder Str. 77 Map H1 restaurants in Kollwitz-
MayOct: 57pm Wed, Thu (otherwise platz (see p139): Gugel-
by prior arrangement) (030) 445 77 45 hof and Zander are both
worth recommending (for
both see p143). Continue
along Knaackstrae to the
small Synagoge Ryke-
strae. From here it is
only a few paces to the
Wasserturm in Knaack-
strae. Give your feet a
rest on the small green
space around the tower,
before continuing along
Belforter and Kollwitz-
strae to Schnhauser
Allee. You will find perfect
tranquillity there in the
Jewish Cemetery.
Entrance to Gethsemanekirche
141
Left Senefelderplatz Centre Pfefferberg Right ZEISS-Groplanetarium
Best of the Rest

Greifenhagener Strae 1925. The residential buildings
Not the most beautiful are reminiscent of a social
street of Old Berlin, but one of housing programme. d Map H1
the best preserved. d Map H1
Prenzlauer Berg Museum
Pfefferberg The small lively museum
This alternative cultural documents the history of the
centre hosts concerts, perform- district and its poor working-
ance art events and festivals. class inhabitants in the 19th
d Schnhauser Allee 176 Map H2 century. d Prenzlauer Allee 227228
(030) 44 38 31 10 Map H2 16pm Tue (also by prior
arrangement) (030) 902 950
Senefelderplatz
The wedge-shaped square Sammlung
is dedicated to Alois Senefelder, Industrielle Gestaltung
a pioneer of modern printing In this museum you can admire
techniques. At its centre is Caf typically East German designs,
Achteck. d Map H2 ranging from soap powder cartons
to shopping bags. Regular special
ZEISS-Groplanetarium exhibitions. d Kulturbrauerei, Knaack-
A trip to outer space see str. 97 Map H1 18pm WedSun
stars, planets and galaxies under (030) 44 31 78 68
the silvery dome of the Plane-
tarium. d Prenzlauer Allee 80 9:30am Oderberger Strae
and 11am MonFri; also pm Wed, Sat, Sun This tree-lined street has
(030) 42 18 45 12 remained almost completely
unchanged. The old municipal
Mauerpark swimming baths of Prenzlauer
The vast sporting terrain Berg are also located in this road,
near the former border, compris- at No. 84. d Map G/H1
ing Max Schmeling Hall and Jahn
Sports Park, was Thlmannpark
u s Schnhauser
built for the Berlin Allee One of few parks
Olympics in 2000. in the northeast of
Today it hosts sports the city, dominated
and music events. by Socialist prefabri-
d Am Falkplatz Map G1 Eberswalder
Str. u
cated buildings. It
(030) 44 30 44 30 has a giant monu-
ment to Ernst Thl-
Helmholtzplatz mann, a communist
All around this who was murdered
square, time seems u Senefelderplatz by the Nazis. d Prenz-
to have stopped in lauer Allee Map H1
142
Price Categories

Left Italian restaurant BellUno Right Caf November
Restaurants, Pubs & Bars

Drei live concerts. d Kastanienallee 79
Yuppies and West Germans Map G2 6pmmidnight MonSat,
congregate at this trendy eaterie, 10ammidnight Sun (030) 448 56 88
serving international and Asian no credit cards
food. d Lychener Str. 30 Map H1
6pmmidnight MonSat, noon2am Sun Knaack-Club
(030) 44 73 84 71 no credit cards Almost legendary club,
playing rock and indie to an
Gugelhof alternative crowd. d Greifswalder
Bill Clinton was once a guest Str. 224 Map H2 from 9pm Fri, Sat
at this restaurant, which draws (030) 442 70 60 no credit cards
clients from all over Berlin. The
menu features an original com- Restauration 1900
bination of German and French This venerable restaurant
dishes. d Knaackstr. 37 Map H1/2 still pulls in the crowds with its
4pmmidnight MonFri, 10ammidnight deliciously light German cuisine.
SatSun (030) 442 92 29 d Husemannstr. 1 Map H1/2 10am
2am daily (030) 442 24 94
Zander
A small restaurant, offering Pasternak
imaginative new interpretations Go Russian at this Moscow-
of local fish specialities. The style venue, with borshch, Rus-
three-course set menu is one of sian music and vodka. d Knaackstr.
the best and least expensive in 22 Map H1/2 noonmidnight daily
the district. d Kollwitzstr. 50 Map (030) 441 33 99 no credit cards
H2 611pm TueSun (030) 44 05 76
78 Caf November
Popular restaurant and bar
BellUno on the Prenzlauer Berg hill.
Lively Italian restaurant with d Husemannstr. 15 Map H1/2
a large terrace ideal for people- 9am2am MonThu, 9am3am FriSun
watching in the open (030) 442 84 25
air. d Kollwitzstr. 66 u s Schnhauser
Allee
Map H2 10am1am Anita Wronski

daily no credit cards One of the
(030) 441 05 48 districts oldest pubs,
u Eberswalder
Str.
attracting students,
Prater would-be revolu-
Surprises at tionaries and locals.
Prater include a beer d Knaackstr. 26 Map
garden, a rustic H1/2 9am2am MonFri,
Senefelderplatz u
restaurant in the 10am2am Sat, Sun (030)
courtyard, and free 442 84 83 no credit cards

Around Town Berlins Southeast
Left Normannenstrae Centre Schloss Friedrichsfelde Right Kpenicks coat of arms
Berlins Southeast
B ERLINS EAST AND SOUTH are remarkably different in character. Fried-

richshain, Lichtenberg and Hohenschnhausen in the east are densely
built-up, former working-class areas, while green Treptow and idyllic Kpenick in
the far southeast seem like independent villages. The tenement blocks of
East Berlin were steeped in history during World War II and later
under the East German regime. Historic Kpenick and Groer
Mggelsee, meanwhile, are popular daytrip destinations.
Sights
1 Kpenicker Altstadt 6 Groer Mggelsee
2 Kpenicker Schloss 7 Treptower Park
3 Gedenksttte 8 Volkspark Friedrichshain
Normannenstrae
9 Tierpark Friedrichsfelde
4 Deutsch-Russisches
0 Gedenksttte
Museum
Hohenschnhausen
5 East Side Gallery
Kpenick Town Hall
R
R.
Prenzlauer
R H IN
ST
R FER ST
0
ER
Berg
ST R
LD
DA M M
ALLE E
A SW
L AN D SB ER GE R
.
DO
96
EI F
A LL E E
a
S-
GR
HL
9 HER Z BER G ST R .
BE RG ER
MA
K AR
Marzahn
E
Franfurter
CH
L- M
Mitte
R.
A R X - AL L Allee Lichtenberg
M A R KIS
ST
EE Kaulsdorf
BL UM -
Ostbahnhof
us 3
R
OWE
5s F R AN F UR
T ER A L L 1/5
H N
M EE
S H Friedrichs- Mahls-
A M TI E R
T R LE ALT K A U L S D O R F
AS N-
SE hain Biesdorf dorf
8
.
ST R
Sp
M
P
ree
A G E N E R C H.
K
AR K
DAM
ZE R
u Tierpark
PE
M N IT
Treptower
Park s
IN E R
NI
CK
7
CHE
Kreuzberg
ER
ULM
-S C H
4 EN
L LE E
ER ST R.
R ICH S H
CH
ST R
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.
. K
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KO W A
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s
PEN
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. FR I E D
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PE NI CK
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Karlshorst
ES
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k Berlin-
PE
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Tempelhof LE
CK
R
L MA R X
E D ST
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ER
AN
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Neuklln
ST R .
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ST R
LH
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DA H LW IT
R.
SC R. EID
.
U M ST E
EE
BA SCH S pr e e
s Kpenick
NEL
ST R A SS
E ST R L E R - Kpenick
.
G RA D E Treptow Spindlersfeld s M G
G E L S E E DAM M
M
Tempelhof OBE
1
AM
RSPR
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ER
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96
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2 1 miles 0 km 1 2
144
Kpenicker Schloss
The Kpenick palace, which
is situated on Schlossinsel
(palace island) in the south of the
district, was built in 167781 to

plans by the Dutch architect
Rutger van Langervelt for Fred-
erick, heir to the throne and
future King Frederick I. In the
17th century, the charming
Pool in Kpenicker Altstadt Baroque palace was extended
by Johann Arnold Nering and
Kpenicker Altstadt others. Today it houses part of
Kpenick is a small, quiet, the collections of the Berliner
self-absorbed world. This island Kunstgewerbemuseum (arts and
community has a venerable crafts museum) (see p47).
history: as early as the 9th d Schlossinsel Phone for opening hours
century, people had settled on (030) 20 90 55 55
Schlossinsel. The former fishing
village stayed independent until Gedenksttte
1920, and its coat of arms still Normannenstrae
features two fish, as do The former headquarters of
many of the house faades. the much-feared Stasi,
The Old Town, on the banks of East Germanys secret
the Dahme River, is still char- police, is now a memorial,
acterized by cobbled streets commemorating the
and low fishermens huts thousands of victims
from the 18th and 19th of the East German
centuries, taking the regime and of Erich
visitor back in time. Mielke, the minister in
Schlerplatz, Grn- charge of the secret
strae and Alter police. Visitors can see
Markt, too, still have Hauptmann von Kpenick his offices, the
some older buildings. canteen and various
Old Kpenick became famous on pieces of spying equipment,
16 October 1906. Wilhelm Voigt, revealing the methods used by
a homeless man dressed up as a the Socialist big-brother regime.
captain, commanded a troop of d Ruschestr. 103, Haus 1 11am6pm
soldiers, marched into the town MonFri; 26pm Sat, Sun (030) 553 68
hall, arrested the mayor and con- 54 Admission charge
fiscated the municipal coffers.
Today the Hauptmann von Deutsch-Russisches
Kpenick (Captain of Kpenick), Museum
who later became a popular folk World War II ended here on
figure, is commemorated by a 8 May 1945, when Germany
statue in front of the Rathaus signed its unconditional sur-
(town hall). The vast red-brick render. Documents, uniforms
structure, dating from 19014, is and photographs, displayed in
a typical example of Gothic brick the former officers casino,
architecture from Brandenburg relate the story of the war.
province. d Rathaus: Neue Krugallee 4 d Zwieseler Str. 4 10am6pm TueSun
8am6pm MonFri (030) 617 20 (030) 50 15 08 10 Admission charge
145
Left East Side Gallery Centre Inside Kpenicker Schloss Right Volkspark Friedrichshain
East Side Gallery for example at the beach resort

A fragment of the Berlin of Rahnsdorf. d Friedrichshagen:
Wall, 1.3 km (1,422 yards) long, Mggelturm: Strae zum Mggelturm 1
was left standing next to the Aprmid-Nov 10am7pm daily; mid-Nov
Spree River. In 1990, 118 artists Mar 10am7pm Sat, Sun (030) 651 65 12
from around the world painted
colourful images onto the grey Treptower Park
concrete wall, making it a unique Treptower Park, established
work of art. Particularly famous in the 19th century as a recreation
is a picture by the Russian artist area for Berlins working-class
Dmitri Vrubel, showing Leonid communities, is today best
Brezhnev and the East known for the giant Sow-
German leader Erich jetisches Ehrenmal
Honecker, exchanging (Soviet Memorial). In
fraternal Socialist April 1945, 5,000 Red
kisses. Much has Army soldiers, who
faded due to exhaust died during the liber-
fumes, but it is now ation of Berlin, were
being restored. buried here. Beyond
d At Mhlenstr./ Ober- the mass graves rises
baumbrcke Map H4 a 12-m (39-ft) bronze
Memorial in Treptower Park statue of a Russian
Groer soldier, holding a child
Mggelsee in one arm and a sword in the
Groer Mggelsee, known as other, which he has used to
Berlins bathtub, is the largest destroy a swastika. d Alt-Treptow
of the citys lakes, covering an
area of 766 hectares (1,892 Volkspark Friedrichshain
acres). Mggelsee is not as Berlins oldest landscaped
popular as Groer Wannsee, its gardens, the peoples park, was
West Berlin counterpart, mainly designed by Joseph Peter Lenn
because it is so far from the in 1840. Today it provides an
centre, in the southeast corner oasis of tranquillity in the middle
of the city. The lake is known for of the densely built-up district of
the beer gardens on its south Friedrichshain. World War II has
side, which can be reached by left its traces here, too. Kleiner
boat from Friedrichshagen. and Groer Bunkerberg two
Further south, Mggelturm heaps of rubble (the latter nick-
(tower) offers magnificent views named Mount Rubble) reaching
over Berlin and the surrounding a height of 78 m (256 ft) were
Brandenburg province. All around piled up here after the war. Less
the lake there are excellent traumatic is the Mrchenbrunnen,
paths for walking and cycling. a charming Neo-Baroque fairy-
You can also swim in the lake, tale fountain created by Ludwig
146 East Side Gallery: www.eastsidegallery.com/deutsche.htm

A Day in Berlins
Green Southeast
Morning
Begin your tour of Berlins

Southeast at Alexander-
platz, from where you
can take the S-Bahn to
the various sights, which
are not always near each
other.
First, take S-Bahn line S3
to Karlshorst, where you
Aviary in Tierpark Friedrichsfelde can visit the Deutsch-
Russisches Museum (see
p145). From here it is not
Hoffmann. It is decorated with far to the Stasi-Museum
106 richly ornamented figures Normannenstrae (see
from popular fairy tales. p145) return to S-Bahn
d Am Friedrichshain Map H2 station Ostkreuz, then
take S-Bahn line S4 and
U-Bahn line U5 to Magda-
Tierpark Friedrichsfelde lenenstrae. After visiting
This small zoological garden all these museums you
is situated in the middle of a could recover outdoors.
beautiful park next to Friedrichs- Take U-Bahn line U5 to
Tierpark Friedrichsfelde,
felde Palace. The animal park is where you can visit both
particularly worth visiting for the the zoological garden and
lions and Siberian tigers, which Friedrichsfelde Palace.
are kept in rocky outdoor enclos-
ures. The elephant house, too, Afternoon
attracts many visitors. Matibi, a For the afternoon make an
excursion to Kpenick.
baby elephant, is the star among
Take S-Bahn line S3 to
the pachyderms. Kpenick, and enjoy a
d Am Tierpark 125 AprOct: 9am7pm typically German meal in
daily; NovMar: 9am till sunset daily the Ratskeller (see p149),
(030) 51 53 10 Admission charge the town hall cellar.
Afterwards explore
Kpenick Old Town. The
Gedenksttte centre of the old fishing
Hohenschnhausen village is especially worth
This former secret police prison a visit. There are many
for political prisoners was in cafs near Kpenicker
Schloss (see p145),
use until 1990. Before 1951, it
where you could stop for
served as a reception centre for a coffee and a piece of
the Red Army. On a guided tour, cake, for example Caf
you can visit the watchtowers Kietz (see p148). Continue
and the cells particularly horri- your journey by S-Bahn to
Friedrichshagen, the
fying are the so-called sub-
access point for Groer
marine cells, rooms without Mggelsee. From here
windows used for solitary con- take one of the tourist
finement, where inmates were boats to the restaurant
interrogated and tortured. Mggelseeperle, where
you can round off the day
d Genslerstr. 66 Guided tours 11am
with a tasty evening meal.
and 1pm daily and by prior arrangement
(030) 98 60 82 30
147
Left Eierschale Haus Zenner Centre Altstadtcaf Cpenick Right Kietz Caf and Restaurant
Cafs & Snack Bars

Altstadtcaf Cpenick Schloss-Caf
This tiny caf in Kpenicks A tranquil oasis where you
Old Town serves coffee and can enjoy coffee and cakes over-
cakes, outdoors, in summer, on looking the Dahme River after a
a small veranda. d Alt Kpenick 16 visit to Kunstgewerbemuseum
10am6:30pm daily (030) 65 47 40 (arts and crafts museum) on
69 no credit cards Schlossinsel. Due to open in 2004.
d Kpenicker Schloss, Schlossinsel no
Eierschale Haus Zenner phone no credit cards
One of the classic day-trip
destinations: families once used Kietz Caf and Restaurant
to bring and brew their own A pleasant caf, serving
coffee. Today it is a popular out- superb home-made cakes and
door caf, often offering live snacks. A great draw in summer
music and dancing. d Alt-Treptow is the waterside terrace. d
1417 noonmidnight daily (030) 533 Mggelheimer Str. 1 9am1am daily
73 70 no credit cards (030) 651 71 09 no credit cards
Caf L & B Caf Liebig

Not far from the swimming Charming, richly ornamented
baths, this caf serves local fish Art-Nouveau caf in a historic
dishes, as well as afternoon building, dating back more than
coffee and cakes. d Am Kleinen 130 years. The summer terrace
Mggelsee 1 11am9pm WedSun overlooks Grnau regatta course.
(030) 659 82 24 no credit cards d Regattastr. 158 3pm11pm MonFri,
noon11pm SatSun (030) 67 82 09 36
Neu-Helgoland no credit cards
A favourite day-trippers rest-
aurant on the lake, where locals Restaurantschiff
and visitors alike enjoy the game Hoppetosse
and fish dishes. d Odernheimer Str., A picture-book ship restaurant,
Kleiner Mggelsee 11ammidnight serving everything including fish
daily (030) 659 82 47 no credit cards dishes. d Eichenstr. 4 from noon
MonSat, from 11am Sun (030) 53 32
Seerestaurant Rbezahl 03 40 no credit cards
This beer garden, on the
piers of Mggelsee, is a great Hanffs Ruh
place to aim for on a day out. You Sticking to an old tradition,
can reach the outdoor restaurant guests can brew their own coffee
by ferry. d Am Groen Mggelsee here. The mushroom dishes are
OctApr: 11:30am6pm daily; MaySep: highly recommended. d Rabindra-
11:30am10pm daily (030) 65 88 24 70 nath-Tagore-Str. 25 11am9pm Wed
no credit cards Mon (030) 674 33 68 no credit cards
148
Price Categories

Left Restaurant freiheit fnfzehn Right The Ratskeller in Kpenicks Old Town
Restaurants
freiheit fnfzehn Ellis
German and French cuisine One of the few American-
are served aboard a schooner, style restaurants in Berlin, with
which is moored at the pier. authentic decor and American
There are also occasional cabaret regional dishes. d Frstenwalder
and live music performances. If Allee 17 511pm MonFri, noon1am
you prefer dry land, you can enjoy Sat, Sun (030) 648 91 81
your meals in the beer garden.
d Freiheit 15 611pm WedSun Krokodil
(030) 65 88 78 26 Situated in the Old Town,
near the river baths in Garten-
Ratskeller Kpenick strae, this is one of the nicest
Traditional Berlin fare is garden venues, especially in
served in the vast vaulted summer, d Gartenstr. 4648 5pm
cellars where Wilhelm Voigt midnight MonSat, 11ammidnight Sun
once famously took advantage (030) 65 88 00 94 no credit cards
of gullible local civil servants
(see p145). d Alt-Kpenick 21 Brustbl
11am11pm daily (030) 655 56 52 A typical Berlin beer garden
and restaurant, belonging to the
Klipper Schiffsrestaurant Berliner Brger-Brau brewery.
This two-master, dating Brger-Brau beer and game
back to 1890, has been turned dishes are served; occasional
into a cosy restaurant; the menu live concerts at weekends.
features French-inspired inter- d Mggelseedamm 164 noonmidnight
national dishes. d banks of the TueSun (030) 645 57 16
Spree River, close to Insel der Jugend
10am1am daily no credit cards Lehmofen
Meat and vegetarian dishes,
Schrrs Biergarten freshly cooked in an antiquated
Popular, informal beer garden clay oven, are the top attractions
near the lake, specializing in in this restaurant with summer
hearty food from the grill. d Josef- terrace. d Freiheit 12 noonmidnight
Nawrocki-Str. 16 from 11am daily MonThu, Sun, noon1am FriSat (030)
(030) 64 09 58 80 no credit cards 655 70 44
Die Spindel Kiboko

This rustic restaurant serves African restaurant in a 19th-
traditional German food as well century fishermans hut, serving
as a large selection of fondues, ostrich and crocodile: one of the
which need to be ordered in more exotic venues. d Blschestr. 10
advance. d Blschestr. 51 11:30am from 5pm WedFri, from noon SatSun
10pm daily (030) 645 29 37 (030) 64 19 73 25 no credit cards

Around Town Potsdam & Sanssouci
Left Inside Schloss Charlottenhof Centre Chinese tea-house Right Vestibl in Neues Palais
Potsdam & Sanssouci
P OTSDAM IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF EUROPEAN cultural history a

splendid centre of European Enlightenment, which reached its climax in
the 18th century in the architectural and artistic design of Frederick the
Greats palace. The palace complex of Sanssouci, with its beautiful, extensive
park, is both magnificent and playful and has been designated a World
Heritage Centre of Culture by UNESCO. Every year, it enchants millions of
visitors from around the world. The town of Potsdam, numbering some
300,000 inhabitants, is the capital of the federal province of Brandenburg.
This former garrison town has much to delight its visitors, including small
palaces and old churches, idyllic parks and historic immigrant settlements.
Sights
1 Schloss Sanssouci 6 Marmorpalais
2 Neues Palais 7 Hollndisches Viertel
3 Schlosspark Sanssouci 8 Nikolaikirche
4 Schloss Cecilienhof 9 Marstall (Filmmuseum)
5 Schloss Charlottenhof 0 Filmpark Babelsberg
Frederick the Great playing
the flute in Sanssouci
GA RT EN
4
EE
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-A L L
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AM NE
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. -M E N D E L - S T R. R.
E ER Orangerie Bilder G E N ST
J GE RA
A LLE E R ST
Neue galerie R. KURF
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L AI
S
Kammern 1 CH BER
W E IN L A L L E E
NE U E N PA
Park OP
7
1
HAUPTALLEE EN E
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Sanssouci R.
HA
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Chinesisches
Communs EN BU R
U E R ST
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NE
AM
-
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3 Z I M ST R .
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E
1
Charlottenhof Potsdam
3km
Hauptbahnhof s
Park
Sanssouci Templiner See
1000 500 yards 0 metres 500 1000
152 Preceding pages The stairs leading up to Schloss Sanssouci

Schloss Sanssouci Neues Palais
The Prussian King Frederick To the north of Sanssouci
the Great wished to live sans palace park rises the Baroque
souci, in a palace outside the Neues Palais. One of Germanys
boundaries of the hated city most beautiful palaces, it was

the French phrase means built in 17639 for Frederick the
without worries. In 1745, Great according to designs by
Frederick commissioned his Johann Gottfried Bring,
favourite architect Georg Jean Laurent Le Geay and
Wenzeslaus von Knob- Carl von Gontard. The
elsdorff to plan and vast two-storey structure
construct this magnificent comprises 200 rooms,
Rococo palace according to including the Marmorsaal
his own designs. (marble hall), a lavishly
The main building with its furnished ballroom, and the
yellow faade rises proudly Schlosstheater, where plays
above the former terraced are once more performed
vineyards, leading up to Vase in today. Fredericks private
the domed building and its Park Sanssouci chambers are equally
elegant marble hall at the splendid, especially his
centre of the palace complex. In study furnished in Rococo style,
both its design and shape, the the upper gallery with valuable
marble hall pays homage to the parquet flooring and the Oberes
Pantheon in Rome. To its left and Vestibl, a room clad entirely in
right are some very attractive marble. d Am Neuen Palais
rooms designed by von AprOct: 9am5pm SatMon;
Knobelsdorff and Johann August NovMar: 9am4pm SatMon (0331)
Nahl; these include the famous 969 43 61 Admission charge
concert room, adorned with
paintings by Antoine Pesne, and Schlosspark Sanssouci
Fredericks library. In this wing, It is easy to while away an
the monarch liked to play the entire day in the extensive
flute or to philosophize with palace park, which covers 287
Voltaire. Valuable paintings by hectares (709 acres) of land. Of
Frederick the Greats favourite the many charming buildings
painter, the French artist Antoine hidden in the lavishly designed
Watteau, adorn the palace walls. landscape garden, the Rococo-
d Zur historischen Mhle AprOct: style Chinesisches Teehaus, built
9am5pm daily; NovMar: 9am4pm in 17546 by Johann Gottfried
daily; guided tour obligatory (0331) 969 Bring, is especially worth
41 90 Admission charge seeking out.
Left Neues Palais Right Concert Hall in Schloss Sanssouci
S-Bahn S7 goes to Potsdam from Berlin. 153

The journey takes about 45 minutes.
Left A street in Hollndisches Viertel Centre Marmorpalais Right Marstall (Filmmuseum)
Originally it served as a tea- Schloss Cecilienhof

house and dining room, and it This little palace, built in
now houses an exhibition of the style of an English country
porcelain pieces from East Asia. manor house, entered the
The Rmische Bder (Roman history books in 1945, when
Baths), a group of pavilions next Germanys fate was sealed by
to the lake, are also inspired by the Potsdam Conference. Built
historic models. Modelled on an in 191417, the palace is now
Italian Renaissance villa, they used as a hotel. It also houses
were built between 1829 and a small exhibition documenting
1840 by Friedrich Karl Schinkel as the Conference and the palaces
guest and bathing houses. furnishings. d Am Neuen Garten
The Orangerie, constructed in AprOct: 9am5pm TueSun;
185160 by Friedrich August NovMar: 9am4pm TueSun (0331)
Stler, was also originally intend- 969 42 44
ed to accommodate the kings
guests. Today it houses a small Schloss Charlottenhof
gallery of paintings. A small Neo-Classical palace
d Chinesisches Teehaus: konomieweg in Park Sanssouci, built in 1829
mid-Maymid-Oct: 10am5pm TueSun by Schinkel for the heir to the
(0331) 969 42 02 throne, Friedrich Wilhelm IV.
d Rmische Bder: Lennstr. Particularly worth seeing is the
mid-Maymid-Oct: 10am5pm TueSun tent-like Humboldtsaal.
(0331) 969 42 02 d Geschwister-Scholl-Str. mid-
d Orangerie: Maulbeerallee mid- Maymid-Oct: 10am5pm TueSun
Maymid-Oct: 10am5pm TueSun (0331) 969 42 28
(0331) 969 42 02
Marmorpalais
The Potsdam Conference This small, early Neo-
Classical palace at the side of
In July and August 1945, the
heads of government of the the lake was built in 17917
United States (Harry Truman), by Carl Gotthard Langhans and
the USSR (Joseph Stalin) and others. It features an elegant
Great Britain (Winston Churchill) concert hall as well as
met in Schloss Cecilienhof, in contemporary furniture and
order to seal the future of porcelain. d Heiliger See (Neuer
Germany in a treaty. Vitally Garten) AprOct: 10am5pm TueSun;
important points such as the
NovMar: 10am4pm Sat, Sun (0331)
demilitarization of Germany, the
level of reparations to be paid, 969 42 46
the punishment of war criminals,
the resettlement of Germans Hollndisches Viertel
from Poland and the new borders A pleasant way to explore
of Germany were decided here. the district of Potsdam is a walk
through the historic Old Town,
154 Palaces in Potsdam www.spsg.de

A Day in Potsdam
Morning
Begin your exploration in
the Schlosspark Sans-

souci (see pp1534) as
early as possible in order
to get ahead of the daily
influx of visitors. Start
with Schloss Sanssouci
and Neues Palais (see
Nikolaikirche on Alter Markt p153), then visit Chine-
sisches Teehaus, Rmi-
sche Bder and Orangerie.
with its art galleries, cafs and From the orangerys
restaurants. Built between 1733 viewing terrace you will
and 1742, the area originally have magnificent views
served as a settlement for Dutch over the entire palace
complex. If you are up for
workers after whom it is now
it, you could also climb up
named. The small red-brick build- to Schloss Belvedere on
ings are decorated with attract- top of the hill. From
ive stucco ornaments. d Friedrich- Schlosspark walk along
Ebert-, Kurfrsten-, Hebbel-, Gutenbergstr. Voltaireweg to Neuer Gar-
ten in the northeast of
Potsdam, where you can
Nikolaikirche rest and recover over a
Potsdams most attractive tasty lunch at Schloss
church was designed by Schinkel Cecilienhof (see p157).
in 1830 in an early Neo-Classical
style. Its giant dome is particul- Afternoon
arly striking. d Am Alten Markt Start the afternoon with
a stroll through Neuer
25pm Mon, 10am5pm TueSat,
Garten. Visit Schloss
11:30am5pm Sun (0331) 29 16 82 Cecilienhof and, if you
like, stop for a break at
Marstall (Filmmuseum) Heiliger See. Afterwards
The small museum, based in walk or drive into the
centre of Potsdam,
the Baroque former stable
starting with the Hollndi-
buildings of the kings town sches Viertel (Dutch
residence, uses old cameras, quarter) where you could
props and projectors to docu- pop into one of the
ment the history of German film. numerous cafs. Then
continue on a circular
d Am Alten Markt 10am6pm
walk, strolling past Peter-
MonSun (0331) 27 18 10 und Paul-Kirche, the
French church, Nikolai-
Filmpark Babelsberg kirche and the town hall.
The Filmpark offers visitors a Finish your day of
sightseeing with a visit to
tour of the legendary UFA-
the Marstall and the film
Studios, which were among the museums in Potsdam and
worlds most important when Babelsberg. Take a look at
they operated here in Babelsberg the palace and the tele-
from 1917 to 1945. Exciting U- graph hill. A delicious
evening meal awaits you
boat trips, stunt performances
at Villa Kellermann (see
and special effects are shown. p157) to round off your
d Grobeerenstr. mid-MarSep: day in Potsdam.
10am6pm daily (0331) 721 27 17
Filmpark Babelsberg: www.filmpark.de 155

Left Schloss Babelsberg Centre Alexandrowka-Haus Right Wasserwerk Sanssouci
Best of the Rest

Alexandrowka based in the historic Hiller-
A detour to the Russian Brandtsche Huser.
colony in Potsdam feels like a d Breite Str. 812 9am5pm TueSun
journey to Russia itself. Decor- (0331) 289 66 00 Admission charge
ated log cabins with picturesque
gardens were built here in 1826 Altes Rathaus
for a Russian military choir. The old town hall, built in
d Russische Kolonie/Puschkinallee 1753, is decorated with sculp-
tures and Potsdams coat of arms
Wasserwerk Sanssouci two gilded Atlas figures, each
This building, resembling a carrying a globe. d Am Alten Markt
mosque with minarets, houses
the water pumping station for Luisenplatz
Schlosspark Sanssouci. The This small square with its
ancient pump, dating from 1842, plain, restored buildings gives a
can be inspected in the building. good impression of Potsdam in
d Breite Str. mid-Maymid-Oct: 10am the early 19th century.
5pm Sat, Sun (0331) 969 42 01 d Luisenplatz
Telegrafenberg Franzsische Kirche

If youre prepared to climb In 1752, Johann Boumann
telegraph hill, you could visit the built this elliptical Huguenot
elegant Einstein tower at the church with its giant columned
top. It was designed in 1920 portico, while Schinkel designed
by Erich Mendelssohn for the the beautiful interior in the
observation of the sun. d Albert- 1830s. d Am Bassinplatz 2:305pm
Einstein-Str. Guided tours Einsteinturm: TueSun (0331) 29 12 19
(0331) 29 17 41 Admission charge
St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche
Schloss Babelsberg The Catholic church of
Built by Schinkel in 1833-5, saints Peter and Paul, modelled
this Gothic palace is situated in on Haghia Sophia in Istanbul,
an idyllic park on the banks of was built in 186770 by Stler.
the Havel River. d Park Babelsberg d Am Bassinplatz by prior arrangement
AprOct: 10am12:30pm, 15pm (0331) 230 79 90
TueSun; NovMar: 10am4pm Sat, Sun
(0331) 969 42 50 Admission charge Brandenburger Tor
The most attractive of five
Potsdam-Museum former town gates was built by
A small museum presenting Gontard and Unger in 1770 in
the history of the town of Pots- the Neo-Classical style to cele-
dam, from prehistoric times to brate Prussian victory in the
the present day. The museum is Seven Years War. d Luisenplatz
156
Price Categories

Left Schloss Cecilienhof serves delicious food
Restaurants & Cafs

Speckers Zur Ratswaage Maison Charlotte
The combination of Prussian Olde-worlde wine bar in a
interior, friendly service and a simple redbrick Dutch house,
light international cuisine make specializing in German and French
Ratswaage one of Potsdams country fare and excellent wines.
best restaurants. d Am Neuen d Mittelstr. 20 noon11pm daily
Markt 10 noon3pm, 610pm daily (0331) 280 54 50 no credit cards
(0331) 280 43 11 no credit cards
Barokoko
Cecilienhof Fashion designer Wolfang
The historic palace is now Joop is a regular at this venue,
the home of a luxury hotel. Its which is based in an historic
restaurant serves top-quality building and serves fresh Italian
German food. d Am Neuen Garten food, with delicious pasta
11am11pm daily (0331) 370 50 dishes. d Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 30
noon1am daily (0331) 280 14 38
Villa Kellermann
You can enjoy an excellent Waage
meal in this town house directly Attractive historic restaurant
on Heiliger See, with great views in a central location. Regional
of the Marmorpalais and Schloss game and fish dishes in unusual
Cecilienhof. The menu is domin- new variations are particularly
ated by Italian dishes. d Mangerstr. worth trying. d Am Neuen Markt
3436 noon11pm TueSun, 611pm noonmidnight TueSun (0331) 817
Mon (0331) 29 15 72 06 74 no credit cards
Restaurant Juliette Caf Heider

A former manor house has A lovely caf in the middle
been taken over by this French of Potsdams Old Town. Fantastic
restaurant, one of the most breakfast selection, which you
charming eateries in the entire can enjoy outside on the terrace
city, serving French classics. in summer. d Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 29
d Jgerstr. 39 noonmidnight daily 8am1am MonFri, 9am1am Sat,
(0331) 270 17 91 10am1am Sun (0331) 270 55 96
Preuischer Hof La Madeleine

Pickled pork knuckle and A little bistro, serving all
other specialities from Berlin and sorts of crpes, such as sweet
Brandenburg province feature on with jam or savoury with ham,
the menu of this solid middle- ideal for a quick snack.
class restaurant. d Charlottenstr. 11 d Lindenstr. 9 noon11pm SunThu,
noon11pm TueSun (0331) 270 07 62 noonmidnight FriSat (0331) 27 05
no credit cards 400 no credit cards

STREETSMART
Planning your Trip
160
Arriving in Berlin
BERLINS TOP 10
161
Getting Around Berlin
162
Information
& Advice
163
Berlin for
Disabled Visitors
164
Banking &
Communications
165
Security & Health Tips
166
Excursions & Days Out
167
Guided Tours
168
Ways to Escape
the Crowds
169
Shopping
170
Berlin on a Budget
171
Places to Stay
172179
Streetsmart
Left In Kurfrstendamm Right The Love Parade in July
Planning your Trip

When to Go and Insurance for family reductions.
Climate All travellers are well It can be a lot of fun to
The weather in Berlin is advised to buy insurance explore the city together
better than its reputation. cover for accidents, ill- with children, but you are
The continental climate, ness and theft. Cancel- advised to avoid the rush
which characterizes the lation insurance may also hours on U-Bahn and
entire region, guarantees be worth taking out. buses, especially if you
mild and dry weather for are travelling with babies
the main holiday period Driving Licence or very young children.
from May to September. UK, US, Canadian
In spring and autumn it and Australian driving Pupils and
can be cold and wet, and licences are recognized Students
it may be advisable not to in Germany. Many museums, theatres
travel to Berlin between and other cultural estab-
November and February, Visa and Customs lishments offer up to 50
when it is often cloudy, All visitors to Berlin per cent reductions for
and a bitingly cold, need valid passports. If pupils and students on
easterly wind whistles youre staying in Berlin production of a valid
through the city. for 90 days or less, you student card.
will not normally need a
What to Wear visa. Ask your German
In the summer Embassy for details. Embassies
months youll need only Non-EU citizens may Australian Embassy
lightweight clothing. In import 200 cigarettes Wallstr. 7679 Map
spring and autumn you and one litre of spirits L4 (030) 880 08 80
should definitely pack a per adult.
rain- and windproof jacket British Embassy
as well as an umbrella. Electrical Wilhelmstr. 7071
Locals dress informally Appliances Map K3
and more flamboyantly The electric current is (030) 20 45 70
than other German 220 volt; but remember Canadian Embassy
urbanites anything you to bring an adaptor with Friedrichstr. 95
like goes. The capital has, two round pins. Map L4
however, gone more (030) 20 31 20
upmarket and you may Time Difference
feel out of place in many Berlin is in the New Zealand
restaurants or theatres Central European time Embassy
without a jacket and tie zone, which means that Friedrichstr. 60
or evening dress. it is one hour ahead of Map L4
Greenwich Mean Time, (030) 20 62 10
Money six hours ahead of US South African
If youre arriving from Eastern Standard Time Embassy
abroad, youll be able to and 11 hours behind Tiergartenstr. 18
buy euros at all banks Australian Eastern
Map L4
and bureaux de change Standard Time.
(030) 22 07 30
(many are based around
Bahnhof Zoo). Credit Childrens Needs US Embassy
cards, travellers cheques If you are travelling Clayallee 170
and EC-cards are accep- with children, book into Map K3
ted everywhere in the child-friendly accommo- (030) 832 92 33
centre of town. dation. Always look out
160 Online map of Berlin: www.stadtplandienst.de

Streetsmart
Left Flughafen Tegel Centre The ICE to Berlin Right Three typical road signs
Arriving in Berlin
Flughafen Tegel Flughafen Tempelhof take Bahnhof
Berlins largest airport U-Bahn line U6 from Platz Lichtenberg
is situated a mere 8 km der Luftbrcke station or Trains from Southern and
(5 miles) to the north- bus No. 119 to Kudamm. Eastern Europe arrive at
west of the city centre. d Airport information: this station, and many
Though it is a relatively (01805) 00 01 86 through trains from the
small airport, Lufthansa, West stop here, too. This
Deutsche BA, British Airlines is the best place to arrive
Airways, KLM, Air Lufthansa has an if your final destination is
France, Iberia and Alitalia office downtown on in the eastern part of the
and others all operate Kudamm, while other city. d Weitlingstr. 22
direct flights here. There airlines like Deutsche BA (01805) 99 66 33
are no intercontinental have ticket offices at Tegel
flights to Berlin. A taxi airport. d Lufthansa: Kur- Zentraler Omni-
from the airport to frstendamm 21 (Neues busbahnhof (ZOB)
Kudamm costs around Kranzler-Eck) Map P4 The coach station near
13 and takes about 10am7pm MonFri, Funkturm in Charlotten-
2030 minutes (depending 10am4pm Sat (030) 88 burg offers fast and inex-
on traffic). Less expensive 75 38 00 pensive coach connec-
and nearly as fast is the d Deutsche BA: Flughafen tions to all German and
journey by bus Nos X09 Tegel (01805) 35 93 22 European cities. d
or 109 (about 2.10) stop 8am8pm MonFri, Masurenallee 46 Map A4
everywhere in the centre. 9am6pm Sat, Sun (030) 302 53 61
d Airport information:
(01805) 00 01 86 Bahnhof Zoo- Motorways
logischer Garten If youre travelling to
Flughafen Most long-distance trains Berlin by car, you will
Schnefeld from Germany and West- have to get there via
Located approximately 20 ern Europe arrive at Berliner Stadtring, an
km (12 miles) southeast Bahnhof Zoo in the west- orbital motorway around
of Berlin, in Brandenburg ern part of the centre. the city. From the north
province, this airport is There are excellent con- you will reach the city
served by charter and nections from this station motorway on the A111
East European airlines. to other parts of town by motorway via Stolpe in
S-Bahn lines S9 or S45 S- and U-Bahn, and taxis the direction of Auto-
will take you directly to are always waiting at the bahndreieck Funkturm;
the city centre. A taxi trip taxi ranks outside the from the south you will
from Schnefeld is not station. Hardenbergplatz reach the centre on the
recommended because it Map N4 (01805) 99 66 33 A115 the famous Avus
is too far out of town. motorway.
d Airport information: Ostbahnhof
(01805) 00 01 86 Ostbahnhof is the By Car
point of arrival from The speed limit on
Flughafen Eastern Germany or the orbital Berliner Ring
Tempelhof Eastern Europe. S-Bahn is mostly 100 km/h (62.5
The small historic city lines S5 and S7 will take miles per hour); on the
airport south of Kreuz- visitors straight to the urban motorways in
berg provides regional main Bahnhof Zoo Berlin you are limited to
connections to medium- station. d Strae der 80100 km/h (5062.5
sized German towns and Pariser Kommune miles per hour). There are
to Scandinavia. From (01805) 99 66 33 frequent radar checks.
Berlins airports: www.berlin-airport.de 161

Streetsmart
Left S-Bahn Centre At a bus stop Right Exploring Berlin by Velotaxi
Getting Around Berlin

U-Bahn when a button is pushed) starting price is 2.50, and
The Berlin U-Bahn, or until 8pm. Afterwards a further 1.02 is charged
underground railway, has you may board the bus per km (2/3 of a mile). A
one of the largest net- only at the front, and you short-distance tariff also
works in Europe, provid- will have to present your exists: if you hail a taxi in
ing the fastest and most ticket to the driver. the street, you can travel
convenient means of d BVG customer service for up to 2 km (1 mile) for
getting around the city. (030) 194 49 3. d Taxi: (030) 26 10 26,
There are ten U-Bahn lines (030) 55 12, (030) 21 01 01.
each sporting their own Tickets
colour. The U-Bahn runs Tickets for U- and S- Car Hire
from 5am to 1am; at Bahn trains and for buses You can hire a car from
weekends lines U1 and in Berlin are available at any of the large operators
U9 run throughout the all stations and bus stops on production of a valid
night. The station as well as from bus driving licence, passport
indicated on the platform drivers. Berlin is divided and credit card; some only
is the final destination of into three zones: A, B accept customers aged 21
the train. d BVG customer and C. The best value for years or over. There are car
service (030) 194 49 money is a day ticket at hire places at all airports
6.10, which is valid until and in central Berlin.
S-Bahn 3am the following day and d Avis: (06171) 68 18 00;
The S-Bahn or Stadt- covers all three zones. A Europcar: (0180) 580 00;
bahn (city railway) has single journey, costing Hertz: (01805) 33 35 35;
15 lines, connecting the 2.10, is valid for unlim- Sixt: (030) 212 98 80
centre with the suburbs, ited travel for two hours.
They run at 5- to 10- A Kurzstrecke (short Velotaxis
minute intervals. Many distance) counts as up to An unusual way to
lines share tracks so you three U- or S-Bahn explore Berlin is by velo-
will need to pay attention stations or six bus stops, taxi a bicycle rickshaw.
to indicator boards. and costs 1.20. Children These can be found in the
d Information S-Bahn Bhf. under 14 years pay a city centre (from April to
Alexanderplatz 7am9pm reduced rate; those under October only).
MonFri, 9am6pm Sat, six travel free. You have
Sun (030) 29 74 33 33 to stamp your ticket in a Bicycle Hire
red machine in the station There are several bike
Buses or on the bus before hire places in town.
Berlin has a dense starting the journey. d Bicycle station Bhf. Fried-
network of bus routes. d BVG customer service richstr. Map K4 8am8pm
The famous yellow (030) 194 49 MonFri, 10am4pm Sat, Sun
double-decker buses (030) 20 45 45 00
operate mostly in the Trams
centre. Bus lines have Trams operating Berlin on Foot
three-digit numbers, only in the eastern part It can be rewarding
except for express ser- of the city are part of but exhausting to explore
vices, which have two- the same network (BVG). Berlin on foot. You should,
digits or a preceding X. however, make sure you
After midnight, many Taxis stroll along Kudamm and
routes provide night ser- There are taxi stands Unter den Linden. Take
vices. When boarding the all over Berlin. It is not particular care when
bus, you may use the always easy to hail a pass- crossing the cycle paths,
back door (which opens ing taxi. The basic which are marked in red.
162 Public transport information: www.vbbonline.de

Streetsmart
Left Berlin city guides Centre A newspaper kiosk Right The logo of tourist information offices
Information & Advice

Berlin Tourismus tours and more via their publish listings of cultural
Marketing GmbH own telephone service. events on Wednesdays
The municipal tourist d (0331) 969 42 02 and Thursdays respect-
information service BTM ively, while tips and
has offices in the Europa- Potsdam reviews can be found in
Center, near Brandenburg Information the papers every day.
Gate and in Tegel airport. Potsdam has its own
There you can obtain tourist information service, Radio Stations
leaflets and up-to-date offering brochures, an For radio news in
information as well as accommodation service English, you can tune
souvenirs and general and guided tours. into Inforadio (93.1 MHz),
brochures on Berlin. A d Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 5 the BBC World Service
telephone hotline gives AprOct: 10am8pm (90.2 MHz) or the multi-
information about all MonFri, 10am6pm Sat, lingual SFB 4 Multikulti
current events. Sun; NovMar: 10am2pm (106.8 MHz).
d Berlin Tourismus Marke- MonFri, 10am2pm Sat,
ting GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11 Sun Tel (0331) 275 580, Television
Map E4 (030) 25 00 25, Fax (0331) 275 58 29 In addition to the
Fax (030) 25 00 24 24 national TV stations, the
www.berlin.de Where to Stay RBB offers a regional
d Europa-Center, The Berlin Tourismus programme; tv berlin, a
Budapester Str. Map K3 Marketing GmbH (BTM) private TV station, also
10am7pm daily has a telephone hotline broadcasts information
d Brandenburger Tor which will help reserve a on whats on. Thanks to
10am6pm daily. room (for a fee). Several cable and satellite
d Fernsehturm offices also arrange private technology you can also
10am6pm daily accommodation, where easily tune into English
visitors book into shared programmes.
Berlins State apartments for a period of
Museums several days or weeks. Advice for Foreign
Detailed up-to-date d Tel (030) 25 00 25, Fax Nationals
information on the state (030) 264 748 926. From This Senate Office, which
museums and all the abroad: 0049 1805 754 040 deals with the concerns
establishments on of foreign nationals who
Museumsinsel can be Whats On live in Berlin, is also a
obtained from a bilingual There are two fort- good point of advice for
phoneline. Here you will nightly city magazines foreign visitors.
also find out about the with detailed information d Potsdamer Str. 65 Map
current programme of on all kinds of events E5 9am1pm MonFri
events for example tip and zitty. The monthly except Wed, plus 26pm
about the long night of Berlin-Programm with Thu (030) 90 17 23 72
the museums. detailed events listings
d (030) 266 36 66 is also worth consulting. Advice for
For younger readers, the Gay Visitors
Sanssouci magazines prinz, and 030 Advice and information
The visitors advice contain information on for gay and lesbian visi-
service for the palaces nightclubs and bars. Daily tors is always available at
and gardens of Potsdam newspapers such Mann-o-Meter (see p58).
and Sanssouci supplies as Tagesspiegel, Berliner d Blowstr. 106 510pm
accurate information and Zeitung and Berliner MonFri, 410pm Sat, Sun
tips as well as guided Morgenpost usually (030) 216 80 08
Find out whats happening this week on www.berlinonline.de 163

(German language only)
Streetsmart
Left Parking for the Disabled Centre Adapted bus door Right Lift to the U-Bahn station
Berlin for Disabled Visitors

Streets and (030) 194 49. tourists, and it provides
Pavements d Deutsche Bahn Berlin information on disabled
Nearly all pavements in around the clock access to sights.
Berlin are sloped at (030) 20 45 11 16 d www.kobinet.de
junctions to make them
suitable for wheelchair Buses Berliner Behinder-
users. However visitors All buses displaying a tenverband e V
in wheelchairs will need wheelchair symbol are This charitable associ-
to watch out for cyclists specially equipped for ation gives advice and
using the red cycle tracks, disabled access; most support on all issues
often in both directions. buses in the centre have concerning disabled
one door with a ramp people in Berlin.
Stations that can be lowered d Information hotline (030)
Most underground down to the pavement. 204 38 47 Call times:
stations in the centre, At certain times, however, 11:30am5:30pm Wed, Fri
including those that are these buses run only at
actually above ground in 20-minute intervals. Landesamt
high-level stations on Berlins Regional
viaducts, are equipped Cars Services Office for Health and
with lifts, giving wheel- and Guided Tours Social Security runs a
chair users easy access Disabled visitors wishing citizens advice bureau
from the road to the to explore Berlin and with a telephone help-
platform. Brandenburg province line. d Albrecht-Archilles-
d BVG service for disabled on their own by car, or to Str. 62 Map B5
access to stations share a car with driver (030) 90 12 61 14
(030) 25 62 20 96 with other disabled visi- Information for young
d S-Bahn service for tors, can contact several disabled people
disabled access to stations specialist travel agents. (030) 26 54 24 03
(030) 29 74 33 33 d BBV Tours Behinderten- Service for the disabled
fahrdienst, Bizetstr. 5155 and senior citizens
U- and S-Bahn (030) 92 70 36 30 (030) 859 40 10
Underground trains d Micky Tours, Sewanstr. 2
are accessible to wheel- (030) 515 33 36 Wheelchair Hire
chair users although they d Berlin Erkundungen The Regional Office
are a little narrow. If you Gangart Berlin, Calandrelli- (see above) also rents
wish to travel by U-Bahn, str. 19 (030) 32 70 37 83 out wheelchairs for a fee.
wait at the head of the d Reisebegleitung E. Order one in advance by
platform. After the train Schielzeth, Parchimer Allee telephone.
has stopped, the driver 55c (030) 601 01 07 d (030) 204 38 47
will put up a ramp to
bridge the difference in Kobinet.De Sight-impaired
height between platform The internet website Visitors
and train. If you wish to www.kobinet.de gives Berlins charitable associ-
travel by S-Bahn, speak information on wheel- ation for the blind and
to the station manager chair access to restaur- sight-impaired advises on
before the arrival of the ants, hotels and shops in facilities that are available
train; he or she will Berlin. This association for blind visitors.
install the ramp you need also offers interactive d Allgemeiner Blinden-
to board the train. guided tours of the city, und Sehbehindertenverein,
d Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe covering the areas that Auerbacherstr. 7
around the clock are most popular with (030) 89 58 80
164
Streetsmart
Left Historic letter box Centre Modern card telephone Right Bureau de change
Banking & Communications

Banks or Euro/MasterCard, to Postage
All the large German pay at most restaurants, A standard letter (up
banks have branches in cafs and shops. Ameri- to 20 g) to anywhere in
the centre of town. Most can Express and Diners the EU costs 0.55; a
banks open 9am6pm Club are less commonly compact letter (up to 50 g)
MonFri; many open for accepted. You can also 1.44; a postcard 0.45.
shorter periods on Fridays use your credit or EC Stamps can be bought at
and Wednesdays. card (plus PIN number) to the post office, from card
d Commerzbank, Europa- withdraw money from a shops and machines.
Center, Tauentzienstr. 9 and machine. Should you lose
Uhlandstr 181183 Map your card, tell your bank Internet Cafs
N/P5 and P3 9am4pm or provider immediately. You can surf the inter-
Mon, 9am6:30pm Tue, Thu, d American Express net and pick up your e-
9am3pm Wed, 9am (069) 97 97 10 00 d EC mails anywhere. Easy-
1:30pm Fri. d Deutsche Cards (069) 74 09 87 everything is one of the
Bank, Otto-Suhr-Allee 616 d Eurocard and largest internet cafs.
Map M3 9am3:30pm MasterCard (069) 79 33 d easy-everything,
Mon, Wed, 9am4pm Tue, 19 10 d Diners Club Kurfrstendamm 224
Thu, 9am6pm Fri. (01805) 533 66 95 Map P4 around the
d Berliner Sparkasse, d Visa (0180) 361 76 170 clock (030) 88 70 79 70
Rankestr. 3334 Map P4
9am6pm MonFri Telephones Secretarial
There are public Services
Changing Money phones (both enclosed If your hotel does not
Money is changed at cells and open phones) offer secretarial services,
a Wechselstube (bureau all over the centre of you could use an inde-
de change); you can find town. These are almost pendent service. Details
these near Bahnhof Zoo, exclusively card phones. of such services are listed
at the airports or at a Telephone cards can be in the Yellow Pages of
bank. Make sure you ask bought from post offices, the telephone directory.
about commission and in department stores and
charges. Hotels will also at kiosks. Travellers
change money, but may Cheques
charge higher fees. Post Offices and Travellers cheques made
d American Express, Bay- Letter Boxes out in euros or any other
reuther Str. 37 Map P5 Post offices are hard to currency can be ex-
9am7pm MonFri, 10am- miss they are painted a changed at all larger
1pm Sat (030) 21 47 62 92. bright yellow. As else- banks or at branches of
d ReiseBank Bahnhof Zoo where in Germany, Berlin the issuers. Most banks
Map N4 7:30am10pm letter boxes are also yel- charge a fee.
daily (030) 881 71 17. low, but there are some
d Travel Ex, Friedrichstr. 56 blue historic boxes. Important
Map L4 9:30am6pm d Center-Filiale, Joachims- Numbers
MonFri, 9am4pm Sat taler Str. 7 Map P4 Important Deutsche Tele-
(030) 20 16 59 16 8ammidnight MonSat, kom helpline numbers
10ammidnight Sun and are as follows:
Credit Cards holidays. national directory
Everywhere in the d Bahnhof Friedrichstr., enquiries 118 33
centre of Berlin youll be Georgenstr. 12 Map K4 international directory
able to use a standard 6am10pm MonFri, enquiries 118 34
credit card, such as Visa 8am10pm Sat, Sun operator (0180) 200 10 33
165
Streetsmart
Left Ambulance Centre A pharmacy in the centre of Berlin Right A police van
Security & Health Tips

Emergencies police officers patrolling Dentists
As elsewhere in the streets in the centre. The dental emer-
Germany, the emergency d Polizeiprsidium, Platz gency phone line will
phone numbers are 112 der Luftbrcke 6 refer you to the nearest
for ambulance and fire (030) 69 93 64 44 dentist for treatment.
brigade, and 110 for the d (030) 89 00 43 33
police. These can be Lost Property
dialled free of charge The Zentrales Emergency
from public phone boxes. Fundbro (central lost- Services
property office) keeps There are several other
Safety anything that has been important numbers for
Berlin is a fairly safe lost and found anywhere emergencies, which
city. As in any other in Berlin. If you have lost usually operate through-
metropolis, however, you an item on public trans- out the night. These will
are advised to follow a port, enquire with the provide telephone advice
few golden rules. Keep Fundbro der BVG. The or inform you of other
an eye on your valuables, Fundbro der Deutschen emergency services if
such as your wallet or Bahn AG is responsible necessary.
handbag, at all times, for all items lost on the d Doctors on call
especially on U- and S- S-Bahn or the railways. (030) 310 031
Bahn trains and on d Zentrales Fundbro, d German Red Cross
buses. At night, the Platz der Luftbrcke 6 Rescue Service
following areas are best (030) 75 60 31 01 (030) 85 00 52 08
avoided: the area behind d Fundbro der BVG, d Emergency Poison
the Gedchtnis-Kirche, Potsdamer Str. 182 Helpline
U-Bahn line U9 north of (030) 25 62 30 40 (030) 192 40
the Zoo, the districts d Fundbro der DB d Narcotics Emergencies
Lichtenberg (especially (01805) 99 05 99 (030) 192 37
the station) and Fried- d Telephone helpline for
richshain. Eastern areas Hospitals emotional problems
can be less safe; black Visitors from EU 0800 111 0 111 0800
or openly homosexual countries are covered for 111 0 222 (spiritual help)
visitors are also advised emergency treatment,
not to take the S-Bahn at but British visitors should Embassies
night east of Alexander- obtain form E111 from a Foreign visitors who
platz or to Brandenburg. post office before leaving have lost their passport
home. Non-EU visitors or need legal advice or
Theft should buy special travel help with their visa
Ask the hotel to place insurance to cover should contact their
your documents and valu- medical emergencies. embassy (see p160).
ables in a safe if possible,
or carry them close to Chemists Women travelling
your body. Even if you There are numerous on their own
are making a short visit, Apotheken (chemists or Berlin is quite safe for
it is worth taking out pharmacies) all over women on their own, but
insurance unless you are town. After 8pm, an avoid parks and dark,
already covered by your emergency phone line quiet streets at night, as
household insurance. Be will give you information well as the outer districts
sure to inform the police on where to find the of East Berlin. d
immediately of any theft; nearest open chemist. Confidential helpline for
youll usually easily find d (030) 31 00 31 women (030) 615 42 43
166 Online list of pharmacies: www.akberlin.de

Streetsmart
Left By S-Bahn to the outer districts Centre Travelling on Havel and Spree Right In Spreewald
Excursions & Days Out

Spreewald and can be seen only Buckow
The river landscape from the outside. The small village of
around the little towns of d Fremdenverkehrsamt Buckow is the centre of
Lbben and Lbbenau, Rheinsberg, Markt-Kavaliers- the so-called Mrkische
southwest of Berlin, is a haus (033931) 20 59 Schweiz (the Swiss Mark).
unique and unspoilt area A landscape of lakes
of natural beauty. From Werder and hills, which seems
here you can explore by Surrounded by the almost untouched, it is a
boat the old settlements Havelland fruit orchards, good place for walking,
of the Sorbs, a Slavic this small village cele- swimming and boating.
people. Make sure you brates Baumbltenfest, The best area is around
also enjoy the specialities the blossoming of the Schermtzelsee. Also at
of the region fresh fish fruit trees in April and Buckow, the summer
and vegetables, but most May. d Potsdam- residence of Bertolt
of all the famous pickled Information, Friedrich-Ebert- Brecht can be visited.
Spreewald gherkins. Str. 5 (0331) 27 55 80 d Umwelt- und Fremden-
d Tourismusverband Spree- verkehrsamt Mrkische
wald e V, Lindenstr. 1, Caputh Schweiz, Wriezener Str. 1a
Raddusch (035433) 722 99 This picturesque small (033433) 57 500
village near Potsdam,
Sachsenhausen surrounded by numerous Sacrow
concentration lakes, boasts a charming North of Potsdam is
camp Baroque palace as well the tiny village of Sacrow.
A visit to Sachsenhausen, as Albert Einsteins sum- It has become a favourite
Germanys first Nazi con- mer residence at No 7 tourist spot because of
centration camp, is a Waldstrae. d Potsdam- its dreamy Saviours
haunting experience. It Information, Friedrich-Ebert- Church, on the lake of
was opened in 1933 as a Str. 5 (0331) 27 55 80 the same name.
wild camp for political d Potsdam-Information,
prisoners. From 1936 to Frankfurt/Oder Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 5
1945, some 100,000 The other Frankfurt, (0331) 27 55 80
people were murdered on the Oder River, about
here. Next to the camp is 70 km (43 miles) east Knigs
an exhibition. of Berlin, is well worth Wusterhausen
d Gedenksttte und visiting, if only for its A beautiful landscape of
Museum Sachsenhausen, superb museum, devoted lakes stretches all around
Strae der Nationen 22 to the playwright Hein- Knigs Wusterhausen,
AprSep: 8:30am6pm rich von Kleist. d Faberstr. 27 km (17 miles) south-
TueSun; OctMar: 7 10am5pm TueSun east of Berlin. There
8:30am4:30pm TueSun (0335) 53 11 55 are numerous romantic
(03301) 20 00 villages such as Grnau
Bad Saarow and Zeuthen, and one of
Schloss An old spa town and its most attractive spots
Rheinsberg once a celebrity haunt, is the village of Teupitz,
This small palace is an Bad Saarows thermal on Teupitz lake. The
excellent destination for springs and hotel invite Schlosshotel is an ideal
a day-trip. The palace was you for a relaxing week- place to relax. d Kultur-
made famous by the love end. d Kur- und Fremden- und Tourismusverband
story of Kurt Tucholsky. verkehrs-GmbH, Am Dahmeland, Am Bahnhof,
Today the palace is a Kurpark 1 (033631) 8680 Knigs Wusterhausen
home for senior citizens (tourist information) (03375) 25 200
Tourist sights in Brandenburg (German language only): 167

www.reiseland-brandenburg.de
Streetsmart
Left A historic double-decker bus Centre Sightseeing by bus Right Visiting the city by velotaxi
Guided Tours
Sightseeing by depart from Kurfrsten- Tiergarten, next to the
double-decker bus damm (corner of Meineke- bridge Schlossbrcke
Nothing is more fun than str. or Rankestr.), and in as well as in Treptow.
a sightseeing tour of the summer they leave every d Stern- und Kreis-Schiff-
city on the double-decker hour. These bus tours fahrt, Puschkinallee 15
nostalgia bus, which is usually last between two (030) 536 36 00. d Weie
open-top in summer. and four hours, and take Flotte Potsdam, Lange
Buses depart from the in all the most important Brcke (0331) 275 92 10
corner of Kudamm and sights of Berlin. There are
Rankestrae. English and special tours to Potsdam. Berlin from the
German commentary is Departure points: Air
available. d Stadtrund- d Berolina Berlin-Service, Several enterprises offer
fahrtbro Berlin, Kurfrsten- Kurfrstendamm 220 sightseeing trips over
damm 236 (030) 261 20 01 (030) 88 56 80 20 Berlin and Brandenburg
d Severin & Khn, Kurfrs- province by helicopter
Buses 100 and 200 tendamm 216 u. Alexan- and in historic planes.
The cheapest and derplatz (030) 880 41 90 d Kanzler International
fastest way to see the city d Bus Verkehr Berlin Executive Services,
is a journey on buses Nos (BVB), Grenzallee 1315 Kommandantenstr. 14
100 or 200. These double- (030) 683 89 10 (030) 694 94 90
deckers go from Bahnhof d Air Service Berlin, Flug-
Zoo and Alexanderplatz art:berlin hafen Tempelhof (030)
right into Prenzlauer Berg, This agency cuts a 695 35 90
passing all the important swathe through Berlins
sights between West artistic jungle. Small, Berlin Walks
and East en route. A well-conducted tours This small agency
Berlin tour for only 2.10. lead visitors through conducts themed English-
the museums, galleries, language walks, departing
StattReisen cultural events and daily from the taxi rank
StattReisen was one of course to the citys outside Zoologischer
of the first agencies in most exciting architec- Garten. d Bahnhof Zoo
Germany to offer inform- tural treasures. 10am daily (summer also
ative themed walks d Oranienburger Str. 32 2:30pm) and by prior
through the city. Among (030) 28 09 63 90 arrangement (030) 301 91
the most popular themes 94 www.berlinwalks.com
for guided tours are Boat Tours
Jewish Berlin and a Berlins waterways Velotaxis
guided overview tour of Havel and Spree Rivers, An inexpensive, and
the centre (lasting up to Landwehrkanal and the personalized way to see
three hours). lakes Wannsee and the town is by velotaxi
d Malplaquetstr. 5 Mggelsee can all be (see p162).
(030) 455 30 28 explored by boat. Many
tours allow you to take Berlin
Sightseeing Bus in Berlins historic sights Underground
Tours between Charlottenburg A very special sort of tour
Traditional sightseeing and the centre from the are these guided walks
tours by bus, with com- water. Tours last two or through the spooky under-
mentary in up to eight three hours, and there are belly of Berlin, making
different languages, are piers at Schloss Charlot- your way through bunkers
good for getting a quick tenburg, next to the Haus and ancient tunnels.
overview. The tours der Kulturen der Welt in d (030) 49 91 05 17
168 Official guided tours: www.stattreisen.berlin.de

or: www.severin-kuehn-berlin.de
Streetsmart
Left Relaxation can be found in one of the citys many parks Right Exploring Berlin on foot
Ways to Escape the Crowds

Rush Hours Weekends Sunday Morning
If youre driving Most tourists come Even the central
around Berlin, try to to Berlin for weekends, areas in Berlin are often
avoid the main rush and so Kudamm and completely deserted
hours between 7am Friedrichstrae are early on Sunday mornings
and 9am in the morning, completely overrun by the ideal time for a
and between 4:30pm visitors on a Saturday quiet stroll down Kurfrs-
and 7pm in the evening. morning. In the evening, tendamm or Unter den
Buses, U- and S-Bahn, many events, especially Linden. Most cafs and
too, are very crowded at concerts by the Berlin museums open at 10am,
these times. Philharmonic Orchestra so you wont miss out on
and performances in the either cultural discoveries
Lunchtime best theatres, will be or refreshment.
At restaurants, cafs sold out. If possible
and snack bars in the arrange for your visit to Reservations
centre, you will often start on a Sunday and Whether you wish to
have to stand in line or take in the first few days visit the theatre, the
wait to be seated if you of the week. opera, the Philharmonie
arrive between 12:30pm concert hall, a multiplex
and 2pm. Most venues in Holidays cinema or a special
Berlin, though, will High season for Ber- event, it is almost always
continue to serve the lin visitors is the period worth trying to book
same dishes. So, if you from May to July. From tickets as early as
wish to enjoy your meal the end of July or the possible by phone or at
in peace and quiet, set beginning of the school one of the agencies
off after 1:30pm. holidays, however, the youll rarely be lucky
town gets noticeably enough to buy tickets for
Evenings Out quieter, as many locals the most popular events
Popular restaurants, go on holiday then. Youll on the day.
particularly those around easily find parking spaces
Savignyplatz, Gendar- and many restaurants are Nights
menmarkt and Kollwitz- much emptier than usual Berlin is a city that
platz are often booked up especially in August. never sleeps it is
between 7pm and 8pm, The only disadvantage is open 24 hours a day.
especially in summer, that theatres and concert If you dont have to stick
even during the week. halls close then for a to particular times, for
You are therefore best summer break. your evening meal, for
advised to reserve a example, make the most
table in advance, or to Berlin Parks of your freedom in
arrive a little later, after If, after a couple of most restaurants you can
about 9pm. days, youre tired of the still enjoy a good meal
hustle and bustle of the after 11pm. The same is
Early Risers big city, go to one of the true of pubs and bars
Many of the popular parks to chill out Vikto- many close at 3am or
sights get very crowded, riapark in Kreuzberg, 4am, or not at all. Night-
especially from Thursdays Jungfernheide in Charlot- clubs and discos dont
to Sundays. Its a good tenburg and the area get going until midnight
idea to arrive early, and around Tegeler See are or later, even during the
to start your visit as picturesque places week. And some
soon as a place opens where you can relax in museums stay open late,
especially the Reichstag. peace and quiet. until 10pm, on Thursdays.
169
Streetsmart
Left In the Europa-Center Centre Inside Galeries Lafayette Right A stand selling souvenirs
Shopping
Shopping Streets Consumer Dussmann (see p119), at
Kurfrstendamm, Protection Kiepert as well as in the
Tauentzienstrae and If you feel that you are Kaufhaus des Westens or
Friedrichstrae are the not being treated fairly or KaDeWe (see p60).
main three shopping if a product you have
streets in Berlin. Youll bought proves to be Gifts and
find inexpensive shops faulty (and an exchange Souvenirs
around Tauentzienstrae is refused), you can If youre looking for gifts
and Alexanderplatz. contact the consumer and souvenirs to take
Friedrichstrae with the protection association. home, try the Europa-
Friedrichstadtpassagen d Verbraucherzentrale Center (see p24) and the
shopping centre and the Berlin, Bayreuther Str. 40 KaDeWe (see p60). There
Galeries Lafayette depart- 9am12:30pm Mon, 9am- are also souvenir shops
ment store as well as the 4:30 Tue, Fri, 9am8pm in Unter den Linden (near
west side of Kudamm Wed (030) 21 48 50 Pariser Platz), on Pots-
are decidedly upmarket damer Platz as well as at
which is reflected in the Sales Checkpoint Charlie.
prices. A good mix of End-of-season sales
shops can be found in take place at the end of Art and Antiques
the arcades at Potsdamer January and the end of Most antiques shops
Platz, Schlossstrae in July. But youll be able to are clustered south of
the south of Berlin and find bargains throughout Nollendorfplatz (see p104)
the Gesundbrunnen- the year in the depart- and in the smaller streets
center in the north. ment stores and shops, off Kurfrstendamm.
often laid out on special However, the flea and art
Opening Hours stands right next to the fair on the Strae des
Normally, all shops main entrance. 17 Juni (see p60) and the
are open between 10am antiques shops in the
and 8pm on Mondays to Fashion S-Bahn arches between
Fridays; on Saturdays The best fashion and Friedrichstrae and
many open at 9am, but designer stores, selling Museumsinsel are often
close at 4pm. In the four coveted labels such as much better value and
weeks before Christmas, Gucci, Versace, Jil San- offer a wider range of
shops are allowed to der, DKNY or Prada, can goods and antiques.
stay open until 6pm. be found on the west
During special events side of Kudamm and in Around Berlin
(for example during the Friedrichstrae. Kaufhaus In Potsdam as in
IFA International Broad- des Westens sells a good other small towns, there
casting Exhibition or the large range of ladies and are many excellent places
Berlinale Film Festival) gentlemens fashions to shop for arts and crafts
special opening hours (see p60). items or clothes. A good
may be in force. place for bargain hunters
Music is the B96 shopping
How to Pay Apart from large centre, situated on the
Most shops in the multi-media and CD-store national road with the
city centre accept credit chains such as WOM same number. Here many
cards such as Visa, Euro/- (Karstadt, Wertheim), Sa- fashionable items are
Mastercard and American turn, MediaMarkt, Pro- sold at heavily discount-
Express, less commonly markt and Kaufhof, you ed prices. d B96, exit
Diners Club. Almost all will find a vast selection Elstal 10am8pm MonFri,
shops take EC-cards. of CDs at Kulturkaufhaus 9am4pm Sat
170 For more on shops & markets see pp601

Streetsmart
Left Theatre ticket office Right Enjoy Berlins parks for free
Berlin on a Budget
Accommodation transport network visit to one of the federal
For low-cost operating anywhere ministries is particularly
accommodation you can within the A, B and C interesting. Daily news-
check into inexpensive fare zones, as well as up papers will list these
youth hostels, hostels to 50 per cent reductions events. Every year in
run by the YMCA, or a for many tourist summer, Schaustelle
backpacker hostel. Or try attractions. Berlin (a pun on Bau-
a Mitwohnzentrale, an stelle, meaning building
agency arranging shared Reduced Tickets site) conducts guided
accommodation in private Theatres and the tours to Berlins major
homes at a low cost (see opera house sell reduced building sites and other
also p163). tickets at the door on the projects (see also www.
day of the performance, berlin.de).
Restaurants mainly for pupils and
As in Britain, Indian students who can show Free Concerts
and Turkish restaurants a valid student card. Churches and smaller
are often particularly Alternatively, tickets can concert halls in the outer
good value. Another be bought cheaply in districts often put on
cheap alternative are advance by anyone from classical concerts for a
Turkish doner kebab ticketing agencies such low admission fee or
snack bars and German as Hekticket. d Hekticket even free of charge. The
curry sausage stands (030) 230 99 30 city magazines and daily
these often also sell other newspapers list such
snacks at low prices. Street Artists events in the appropriate
Berlin has always columns. All Berlin daily
Museums been a good place for newspapers also give
Berlins municipal street artists, especially away free tickets for
museums, especially on Breitscheidplatz and current exhibitions and
those on Museumsinsel, along Kudamm. There is events. Look at the Berlin
can all be visited on a a legendary mime artist, pages in the papers for
three-day ticket costing dressed as a clown, who what is currently on offer.
only 6. Admission is mimics passers-by
also free on the first outside the cafs on the Markets
Sunday of every month. eastern side of Kudamm. Berlins weekly flea
In summer, in Charlotten- markets always have a
WelcomeCard burg and Prenzlauer vast range of special
The BVG Welcome- Berg, you can often listen offers for sale, besides
Card offers the best and to street musicians and which theyll offer you
cheapest way of visiting singers directly at your the opportunity to try out
exhibitions and museums table or outside the your haggling skills (see
in Berlin and using public restaurant or caf. also pp601).
transport throughout the
city. The WelcomeCard Day of the Parks
costs 22 for one adult Open Door Admission to all of
and up to three children Since Berlin is Germanys Berlins parks and green
under the age of 14 political and cultural spaces is free. You can
(children under 6 travel capital, many public and enjoy their sports facili-
free). It provides three private institutions ties, and often also open-
days of free travel on all regularly offer the chance air-concerts, without
buses and trains of the to take a look behind the having to form out for a
Berlin-Brandenburg public scenes, free of charge. A ticket (see also pp689).
For shops & markets around town see pp85, 107, 119 171
Streetsmart
Left Hotel Charlot Centre Reception in the Econtel Right Hotel Knstlerheim Luise
Modest Hotels & Hostels

die fabrik is well suited to families, d Grobeerenstr. 64
This hotel, its name as some of its rooms Map F5/6 (030) 251 13
meaning the factory, is have been specially 62 no credit cards
a guesthouse cum youth designed for childrens
hostel. An alternative play. A buffet breakfast Hotel Transit
youth and arts centre in is included in the price. Housed on two floors
the middle of deepest d Smmeringstr. 2426 of a former industrial
Kreuzberg, it attracts Map B3 (030) 34 68 10 building, this international
backpackers from around youth hostel is located in
the world, hoping to Pension Niebuhr a lively area close to the
meet locals and others. A typical Berlin town centre. It has large
d Schlesische Str. 18 guesthouse, with a great rooms, sleeping up to six
(030) 611 7116 www. atmosphere, situated in people. d Hagelberger Str.
diefabrik.com no credit the most attractive part 534 Map F6 (030) 789
cards of Charlottenburg. Break- 04 70 www.hotel-
fast can be served in the transit.de
Hotel Knstler- rooms. d Niebuhrstr. 74
heim Luise Map P2 (030) 324 95 95 Hotel Charlot
The 30 rooms in this www.pension-niebuhr.de A small hotel, popular
small, pleasant hotel with student and school
were all individually and groups, and therefore a
imaginatively designed HotelPension little noisy at times. It is
by different local artists, Funk situated in a quiet square
with themes ranging Slightly antiquated, ven- close to Kudamm, where
from loud pop art to clas- erable guesthouse close you will find several pubs
sic Modernism. The hotel to Kudamm, based in the and the UFA-Arthouse-
is in a central location, apartment of the silent- Kino, which screens
close to lively film star Asta Nielsen. English-language films
Scheunenviertel and The rates are unbeatable, currently on release.
Unter den Linden. while furnishings and d Giesebrechtstr. 17 Map
d Luisenstr. 19 Map J/K3 service are personal and P2 (030) 323 40 51/52
(030) 28 44 80 www. friendly. There are only www.hotel-charlot.de
kuenstlerheim-luise.de 15 rooms however, so it
is advisable to book in mitArt Pension
Myers Hotel advance. d Fasanenstr. 69 Tucked away oppos-
A family-run hotel in Map N/P4 (030) 882 71 ite the Tacheles art centre
the centre of Prenzlauer 93 is this small guesthouse,
Berg, ideal for families or based in an old building
young couples. The rooms Pension dating from the 19th
are simply decorated yet Kreuzberg century. The rooms are
modern, and the hotel is Clean and friendly, this plain, with modern furn-
located in an historic part hotel-guesthouse in ishings, and the walls
of town. The service is Kreuzberg boasts an are decorated with avant-
attentive and the excellent atmosphere garde paintings. There
atmosphere relaxed. but unfortunately no are only nine rooms,
d Metzer Str. 26 Map H2 en-suite bathrooms. The which get booked up
(030) 44 01 40 landlady takes great quickly, so you are
care of her guests and advised to reserve early
Econtel is happy to pass on her d Linienstr. 139140
This small hotel, near personal tips for nightlife Map G2 (030) 28 39 04
Schloss Charlottenburg, and culture in Berlin. 30 no credit cards
172 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards,
and have en-suite bathrooms.
Price Categories
Price for a standard under 60
double room per 60100
night, with breakfast, 100150
taxes and other 150200
charges included over 200
Streetsmart
Left A small room in Bleibtreu-Hotel Right Courtyard of Hackescher Markt
Medium-Priced Hotels
Bleibtreu-Hotel Hotel am for exploring Prenzlauer
Here, youll fancy Scheunenviertel Berg. d Kastanienallee 65
yourself in Tuscany the Well-run establishment Map G2 (030) 44 30 50
hotels stylish interior with an intimate atmo- www.hotel-kastanienhof-
courtyard and bright, sphere (there are only berlin.de
tastefully furnished 18 rooms), popular with
rooms are an oasis of tourists on cultural visits. Riehmers
tranquillity in the bustle Rooms and lobby have Hofgarten
of the western half of been kept deliberately In Riehmers Hofgarten
the city. The international plain, which creates a you can live the life of a
clientele is equally slightly spartan impres- Prussian officer. Old
stylish. The hotel has its sion, but all needs are Kreuzberg apartments,
own restaurant, pool, catered for. with sombre rooms and
sauna, massage and d Oranienburger Str. 38 elegant bathrooms, are
much more on offer, and Map J4/5 (030) 282 21 the perfect setting for a
there are shops right 25 19th-century lifestyle.
outside. d Bleibtreustr. 31 The hotel, part of a large
Map P3 (030) 88 47 40 Hotel-Pension complex of 19th-century
www.bleibtreu.com Augusta Gothic red-brick buildings,
This small hotel is a little is certainly remarkable.
Hackescher Markt old-fashioned, and some d Yorckstr. 83 Map F6
A charming hotel in rooms could do with (030) 78 09 88 00
an unbeatable location refurbishing, but thats www.hotel-riehmers-
right opposite Hackesche more than made up for hofgarten.de
Hfe few places in this by its surplus of old
price range can compete. Berlin charm, central Hotel Berliner Hof
Large, bright rooms with location and low prices. You can find a more
elegant furnishings, d Fasanenstr. 22 Map P4 attractive room in other
friendly service, an excel- (030) 883 50 28 hotels, but youll be hard
lent restaurant and many www.hotel-augusta.de pushed to find one at
pleasant extras, such as such a low price and in
an attractive patio, guar- Hotel am Zoo such a central location,
antee a pleasant stay. A trendy hotel in a on Tauentzienstrae,
d Groe Prsidentenstr. 8 uniquely central location, opposite the KaDeWe
Map J5 (030) 28 00 30 on Kudamm. The rooms department store. d
www.hotel-hackescher- are all surprisingly large, Tauentzienstr. 8 Map P5
markt.de and the windows have (030) 25 49 50 www.
been sound-proofed. berliner-hof.com
Alsterhof d Kurfrstendamm 25
A quiet classic, this Map P4 (030) 88 43 70 Hotel Ambassa-
hotel boasts attentive www.hotel-am-zoo.de dor Berlin
staff, rustic rooms and its A medium-priced hotel
own small beer garden in Hotel-Pension near KaDeWe, offering a
summer, all in an excellent Kastanienhof full office service with
location near the KaDeWe. A charming hotel in a quiet rooms, a lovely
Ask about special building dating back to pool with good views
weekend rates. Non- the turn of the 20th and an excellent buffet
smoking rooms available. century. The rooms are dinner.
d Augsburger Str. 5 basic but well equipped d Bayreuther Str. 4243
Map P5 (030) 21 24 20 (with safe, minibar and Map P5 (030) 21 90 20
www.alsterhof.de hairdryer). An ideal base www.sorat.de
Online hotel bookings: www.berlin.de/home/English/ 173

or: www.berlin.nethotels.com/english/
Streetsmart
Left In the artotel berlin Centre Lobby and bar in Heckers Hotel Right Soral Hotel Spreebogen
Designer Hotels
artotel berlin- DeragHotel artemisia
mitte Groer Kurfrst Art and women rule
Berlins best designer If you prefer modern at this small guesthouse
hotel emphasizes every designs, this hotel is not the hotel is run by and
detail, and everything here for you the rooms here for women and all the
has been styled, from the are all classically styled. rooms are beautifully
furniture to the soap in The Groer Kurfrst has colour-coordinated.
your bathroom. The walls successfully incorpor- Regular exhibitions by
of the historic building ated modern facilities women artists from
are decorated with paint- into an historic building. Berlin are held. d Bran-
ings by Georg Baselitz. It also features many denburgische Str. 18 Map
The hotel is centrally useful extras, such as B5/6 (030) 873 89 05
located, close to Nikolai- free public transport
viertel. d Wallstr. 7073 and bicycle hire. Maritim proArte
Map L6 (030) 24 06 20 d Neue Rostr. 1112 Hotel Berlin
www.artotel.de Map L6 (030) 24 60 00 Predominantly styled in
www.deraghotels.de tones of green and blue,
Dorint Schweizer- this modern business
hof Berlin hotel boasts almost 300
The newest of Berlins Heckers Hotel modern paintings, which
luxury hotels, Schweizer- The plain faade of decorate the rooms.
hof features beautifully this modern business Every piece of furniture
clean lines, precious hotel, centrally situated has been carefully styled.
woods and a large, well- in a side street just off d Friedrichstr. 151 Map
designed fitness area Kudamm, belies the K/L4 (030) 203 35 www.
all in the centre of the much more sophisticated maritim.de
western city. Art plays a interior youll be
major part in the hotel greeted by modern art, SORAT artotel
the brightly furnished, cool minimalism, clever Berlin
Scandinavian-style rooms lighting and first-class Works of art hang, stand
are decorated with paint- service. d Grolmanstr. 35 and lie everywhere inside
ings by the artist Ter Hell. Map N3 (030) 889 00 and outside this hotel,
d Budapester Str. 25 www.heckers-hotel.com especially works by Wolf
Map N5 (030) 269 60 Vostell, and the interior is
www.dorint.de boldly designed in ultra-
Sorat Hotel modern vibrant colours.
Brandenburger Spree-Bogen d Joachimsthaler Str. 29
Hof Architect Wolfang Bor- Map P4 (030) 88 44 70
One of the only hotels in chardt has succeeded www.sorat.de
Berlin to be influenced by in turning the old Bolle
the Bauhaus, the Dairy into a modern
Brandenburger Hof has hotel with friendly rooms INN SIDE
free-swinging leather and a restaurant, both Residence Hotel
seats and ball-shaped overlooking the Spree This small hotel is full
lamps, forming an River. Next door are the of modern works of art
exciting contrast to the semi-circular modern even the showers are art
historic building. glass buildings of the installations. The rooms
d Eislebener Str. 14 Map Ministry of the Interior. also have kitchens.
P4 (030) 21 40 50 www. d Alt-Moabit 99 Map J1 d Lange Str. 31 Map H3/4
brandenburger-hof.com (030) 39 92 00 www. (030) 29 30 30
sorat-hotels.de www.innside.de
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left Dining at the Hilton Berlin Right The lobby of Estrel Residence Congress Hotel
Hotels for Business Travellers

Hilton Berlin Crowne Plaza d Gotthardstr. 96 (030) 49
Top executives favour Berlin City Centre 88 40 www.dorint.de
this luxury hotel because Part of an American hotel
of its central location, the chain, the Crowne Plaza Berlin Excelsior
views across Gendarm- offers attentive service, Prestigious member
enmarkt, an excellent tasteful rooms and all of Berlins Blue-Band-
breakfast and specially the creature comforts Hotels, the Excelsior is
designed executive that business travellers characterized more by
rooms. A full secretarial expect, plus a central sober efficiency than by
service is included. location, in the western friendliness but hits the
d Mohrenstr. 30 Map L4 part of the city. mark with moderate
(030) 20230 www. d Nrnberger Str. 65 prices, excellent location
hilton.com Map P5 (030) 21 00 70 and a vast range of busi-
www.cp-berlin.com ness services. d Harden-
Heinrich-Heine bergstr. 14 Map N4
City Suites Holiday Inn (030) 315 50 www.hotel-
This hotel is the best Garden Court excelsior.de
choice if your business It may seem a little
requires a longer stay in impersonal, but the Holi- Jolly Hotel Vivaldi
town. Close to Nikolai- day Inns excellent location This very Italian
viertel, the apartments makes it popular with luxury hotel is in a brand
are equipped with desks business travellers from new building on
and kitchens; and staff the US. It doesnt have a Friedrichstrasse that
are specially trained to restaurant. d Bleibtreustr. opened in 2002. Apart
cater for the needs of 25 Map P3 (030) 88 09 from its East Berlin
business travellers. 30 www.holiday-inn.com location, the hotels main
d Heinrich-Heine-Platz 11 attractions are the
Map H4 (030) 27 80 40 spacious rooms, large
80 www.astronhotels.com Madison City lobby and inviting bar, all
Suites furnished with only the
A central boarding house best materials.
Estrel Residence with suites of 40100 d Friedrichstr. 96 Map
Congress Hotel square metres (4301,076 F3/K4 (030) 206 26 60
With over 1,000 rooms, square feet), elegantly www.jollyhotels.de
this hotel is Europes equipped as offices and
largest, offering a three- offering a secretarial Kudamm 101
to four-star service at service. d Friedrichstr. This very stylish
moderate prices. Its 185190 Map K/L4 (030) hotel is in a central yet
numerous conference 20 29 20 www.madison- quiet downtown location
rooms and the latest berlin.de on Kudamm. It offers a
technological equipment luxurious, international
make it the perfect Mercure Hotel ambience with a retro
venue for conferences Berlin Tegel look reminiscent of the
or international business Airport Ost Bauhaus style. All rooms
meetings. Yet the hotel is Conveniently situated have state-of-the-art
equally ready to cater for near the airport, this communications
the needs of the individual hotel is ideal for brief equipment.
business traveller. business trips. A good d Kurfrstendamm 101
d Sonnenallee 225 (030) nights rest is guaran- Map B5 (030) 520 05 50
683 122 522 www. teed, and the service is www.kudamm101.com
estrel.com efficient and friendly.
See also pp723. 175

Streetsmart
Left Schlossparkhotel Centre Pool in Hotel zur Bleiche Right Relexa Schlosshotel Cecilienhof
Hotels in Green Surroundings

Relexa Schloss- not far from Messegeln- Come here to chill out.
hotel Cecilienhof de (exhibition grounds), d Mggelseedamm 70
Potsdams best hotel, the in a picturesque spot on (030) 645 38 52
Relexa is based in an Lietzensee. Apart from a www.spree-idyll.de
historic building in the beautiful indoor pool, the
middle of Neuer Garten hotel also has a delightful Hotel Rheinsberg
(see p154). At night, sun terrace, which over- am See
peace descends as the looks the lake. d Lietzen- You are guaranteed a
day trippers leave. d Am seeufer 11 Map A4 (030) relaxing stay at this rustic
Neuen Garten Potsdam 32 00 20 www. hotel- hotel in the north of
(0331) 370 50 www. seehof-berlin.de Berlin, which offers a
castle-cecilienhof.de; also huge breakfast buffet.
www.relexa-hotel.de Dorint Hotel The hotel pool help you
Berlin-Mggelsee forget the stresses of life
Landhaus A luxury hotel on and improve your fitness.
Schlachtensee Mggelsee, combining d Finsterwalder Str. 64
This villa, near Schlach- Mediterranean and Asian (030) 402 10 02 www.
tensee and Krumme features. There is a skittle hotel-rheinsberg.com
Lanke, now a small alley, a fitness club,
boarding house, oozes tennis courts, sauna and Courtyard
the charm of bygone billiards as well as boat Berlin-Kpenick
days in rural Berlin. The and bicycle hire and an The slightly sterile and
furnishings in its 20 extensive programme of impersonal atmosphere
rooms are a little old- leisure events. of the Marriott is more
fashioned, but the d Mggelheimer Damm than made up for by its
service is very person- 145 (030) 65 88 20 perfect location. It is
able, making for a pleas- www.dorint-berlin.de right in the centre of the
ant stay. d Bogotastr. 9 southeastern district of
(030) 809 94 70 Haus La Garde Kpenick, on the banks
This tiny guesthouse of the Dahme River
Schlossparkhotel with only four rooms is and both Mggelsee and
Only a few minutes hidden in a romantic villa Schnefeld Airport are
from the western part of on the green Schlachten- only a few minutes drive
the city, this is the only see. If lakes arent your away by car or S-Bahn.
hotel near Schloss Char- thing, you can chill out in d Grnauer Str. 1
lottenburg, right next to the villas own gardens. (030) 65 47 90 www.
Schlosspark. Attached to d Bergengrnstr. 16 courtyard.com
it is a health and fitness (030) 801 30 09
centre the facilities and Hotel zur Bleiche
the service are surpris- Spreeidyll-Hotel This country-house
ingly good for such a am Yachthafen hotel, located in the
small place: the hotel has A small family-run house middle of the Spreewald
only 40 rooms. d Heubner- on the Mggelspree, not lake district, has great
weg 2a Map A/B3 (030) far from a bathing beach facilities including pool,
326 90 30 www.schloss and a boat-hire booth steam rooms, saunas
parkhotel.de the ideal place to relax and a great restaurant
and forget all about the a veritable paradise for
Hotel Seehof hustle and bustle of the health and fitness fans.
am Lietzensee big city, which is, how- d Bleichestr. 16, Burg
A well-run hotel, centrally ever, only a few kilo- (035603) 620 www.hotel-
located in Charlottenburg, metres to the northwest. zur-bleiche.de
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left The Backpacker Hostel Right At BaxPax, youll sleep in a VW Beetle
Budget Hotels & Hostels

BaxPax acksel Haus location in Moabit not
Much better than a Basic apartment one of Berlins most
youth hostel yet much rooms in a small, slightly attractive areas.
cheaper than a guest- alternative guesthouse, d Perlebergerstr. Map
house: in the BaxPax based in an old tenement D/E2 (030) 81 85 19 88
youll be sleeping in beds block. The acksel haus www.gaybed.de
in decommissioned VW is near Kollwitzplatz, a
beetles, at under 20 per popular area with young Backpacker Hostel
night. Plus youll meet people. d Belforter Str. 21 Berlin
young, friendly people Map H2 (030) 44 33 76 A typically charming
from around the world 33 www.ackselhaus.de Berlin guesthouse, in the
(great for making friends). no credit cards most attractive part of
This dive is in deepest Mitte. You can even have
Kreuzberg, and not suit- Jugendherberge your breakfast served in
able for those over 30. am Wannsee the room.
d Skalitzerstr. 104 Map One of Berlins oldest d Chausseestr. 102 Map
H5 (030) 69 51 83 22 youth hostels, popular F2 (030) 28 39 09 65
www.baxpax.de no with groups of students www.backpacker.de
credit cards and pupils and not the
best place for visitors Hotel-Pension
Jugendgstehaus seeking peace and quiet. Korfu II
der DSJ The picturesque location The name of this small
This vast youth guest- on Wannsee makes up hotel with only 19 rooms
house is situated in an for communal showers may seem over the top,
excellent spot, in the and dormitories, partic- but this venue is ideally
heart of Kreuzberg, and ularly in summer. d Bade- suited for young people
close to the Jdisches weg 1 (030) 803 20 34 and families. The rooms
Museum. The showers are basic but well cared
are shared, but a bed in Bed & Breakfast for, and the service is
a multi-bedded room is Berliner Mitwohnzen- efficient. The house is in
not expensive. The hostel trale, an agency, arranges a central spot, opposite
is favoured by a young shared accommodation Kaiser-Wilhelm-
and international crowd. in private homes all over Gedchtnis-Kirche.
d Franz-Knstler-Str. 410 town, at low prices. Youll d Rankestr. 35 Map P4
Map G5 (030) 615 10 07 normally have your own (030) 212 47 90
no credit cards room with one or two www.hp-korfu.de
beds. Quality varies con-
Jugendgstehaus siderably but the rooms Hotel Christo-
Kluckstrae are mostly priced at pherus-Haus
One of Berlins largest under 25 per night. This hotel is a little more
youth hostels offers d (030) 746 14 46 no expensive than others in
slightly antiquated but credit cards the same category, but
comfortable multi-bedded the accommodation in
rooms. The staff are very Timmys green surroundings is
friendly for a hostel in a Bed and Breakfast perfect for families. The
large city, but the hostel A private gay-and-lesbian- hotel is run by the
is often overrun by noisy friendly guesthouse, Protestant church.
hordes of school kids. offering basic rooms and d Johannesstift,
d Kluckstr. 3 Map E5 many insider tips on Schnwalder Allee 26
(030) 261 10 98 no credit culture and nightlife. The (030) 33 60 60
cards only disadvantage is its www.vch.de
German youth hostel association: www.djh.de 177

Streetsmart
Left In Villa Kastania Centre The pool in Alexander Plaza Right Propeller Island City
Hotels & Guesthouses with Charm

Golden Tulip DeragResidenz- Art Nouveau
Residenz Hotel hotel Henriette Hotel
Although this hotel is A stylish hotel with An old-fashioned but
part of a US chain, it is classic decoration oak- well-run guesthouse,
based in one of the most panelled walls and thick based in a beautiful Art-
beautiful old-Berlin town carpets and curtains Nouveau building. The
houses near Kudamm, adorn the rooms, which rooms are furnished in a
and guests enjoy the are arranged around an discreet modern style,
intimate, characterful inner courtyard. Few and the hotel is typical of
atmosphere. The late hotels in town are better Berlins older buildings.
19th century rooms are than this, and the service d Leibnitzstr. 59 Map P2
tastefully furnished, and is very friendly. (030) 327 74 40 www.
the restaurant has outdoor d Neue Rostr. 13 Map hotelartnouveau.de
seating in summer. L6 (030) 24 60 09 00
d Meinekestr. 9 Map P4 www.deraghotels.de Artist Riverside
(030) 88 44 30 www. Hotel Berlin-Mitte
hotel-residenz.com Hotel Gendarm A small hotel promising
This small hotel on big things, and in terms
Hotel-Pension Gendarmenmarkt is of its furnishings at least
Dittberner based in a venerable it keeps these promises.
Berlins best guesthouse, town residence. The The stylish 19th-century
close to Kudamm, con- rooms, too, with their house, with sophisticated
sists of several rooms in design and furnishings, interior and excellent
an old building, connect- seem to hark back to the service, is popular with
ed by endless corridors 19th century, but in fact American visitors.
with lots of nooks and everything is brand-new. d Friedrichstr. 106
crannies. Some of the The hotel also boasts a Map K/L4 (030) 28 49 00
furniture has seen better sauna, pool and fitness www.tolles-hotel.de
days, but breakfast and facilities. d Charlottenstr.
atmosphere are perfect. 60 Map L4 (030) 206 06 Villa Kastania
d Wielandstr. 26 Map P2 60 www.hotel-gendarm- Service of a high
(030) 881 64 85 berlin.de standard, and beautiful
rooms with kitchen and
Alexander-Plaza Hotel-Pension bathroom well suited
Based in an historic Wittelsbach for self-catering and
building from the late The furnishings in this situated in the middle of
19th century, this hotel medium-sized hotel- Prenzlauer Berg.
perfectly combines old guesthouse are hope- d Kastantienallee 20
and new features. The lessly stuck in the 1970s (030) 300 00 20
elegant rooms are and this is what makes
decorated with plaster it so charming. The Propeller Island
ceiling mouldings and service is very friendly, City Lodge
equipped with timelessly children and pets are If youre staying at this
sophisticated furnishings. both welcome, and the lodge, you will share it
This is a very pleasant breakfast buffet is so with the artist Lars Stro-
hotel indeed, both to generous that you wont schen, who designed the
look at and to stay in. need to eat anything else rooms himself. d Pauls-
d Rosenstr. 1 Map J5 for the rest of the day. borner Str. 10 Map B5
(030) 24 00 10 d Wittelsbacherstr. 22 (030) 891 90 16
www.alexander-plaza.com Map B5 (030) 864 98 40 www.propeller-island.com
no credit cards
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left The Dorint am Gendarmenmarkt Right A suite in Hotel Palace
Luxury Hotels
Hotel Palace Westin Grand papers and anything else
The expensively Hotel you could possibly wish
restored hotel on the Luxury accommodation for. d Potsdamer Str. 3
second floor of the in an historic spot, at the Map K3 (030) 590 05 00
Europa-Center is a real corner of Friedrichstrae 00 www.madison-
find all the rooms are and Unter den Linden, berlin.de
exquisitely designed, two offering large, elegant
of the suites (Zack- rooms and US-style Steigenberger
enbarsch and Panda) service. The lobby and Berlin
were styled by the the grand stairs are A first-class hotel, hidden
director himself. The breathtaking. Theres also away in a quiet park-like
hotel staff are unobtrusive a caf and a bar. square, yet close to
and very helpful. d Friedrichstr. 158164 Kudamm. The deluxe
d Budapester. Str. 45 Map K4 (030) 202 70 rooms are a particularly
Map N/P5 (030) 250 20 www.westin-grand.com good deal a private
www.palace.de lounge, daily newspapers
and free drinks are
Dorint am Grand Hotel included if you stay here.
Gendarmenmarkt Esplanade d Los-Angeles-Platz 1
Relatively inexpensive Glitzy, modern hotel, Map P4 (030) 212 70
and the smallest of the with furnishings some- www.steigenberger.de
first-class hotels (70 where between func-
rooms, 21 suites), the tional sobriety and
Dorint is probably also Bauhaus-style. Service Dorint Sanssouci
one of the most attract- and facilities are first- Berlin-Potsdam
ive, with excellent views class and Harrys New This new four-star hotel is
of Gendarmenmarkt. York Bar is very popular. located near Alexandrovka,
d Charlottenstr. 50 52 d Ltzowufer 15 Map N6 the historic Russian col-
Map L4 (030) 203 750 (030) 25 47 80 www. ony, within walking
www.dorint.de esplanade.de distance of Schlosspark
Sanssouci. Offering great
Hotel Inter- Swisstel Berlin facilities (fitness centre,
continental Berlin One of Berlins new pool, restaurant, bars), it
Luxury hotel in Tiergar- luxury hotels, the Swiss- is particularly well suited
ten, renovated two years tel is located at the as a base for excursions
ago, with great views busy corner of Kudamm into Brandenburg province.
over the central park, this and Joachimsthaler d Jgerallee 20 (0331) 27
hotel is popular with Strae. Great views of the 40 www.dorint.de
business travellers. city, especially at night.
Although the building d Augsburger Str. 44 SAS Radisson
itself is not particularly Map P4 (030) 22 01 00 Berlin
attractive, the rooms are www.swissotel.com A modern luxury hotel
furnished in a timelessly with a huge aquarium in
elegant style. Its three Madison the lobby. It has stylish,
restaurants offer first- Potsdamer Platz bright rooms with great
class food, and the bars, This apartment hotel, in a views of Berliner Dom
pool and fitness area are great spot in Potsdamer and Alexanderplatz. It
also excellent. d Buda- Platz, has suites of 35 has Asian and fusion
pester Str. 2 Map N5/6 100 sq m (3751,100 sq cuisine restaurants. d
(030) 260 20 www.berlin. ft) with kitchen, stereo, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3 Map
interconti.com fitness area, sauna, daily K5 (030) 238 280
www.btm.de/deutsch/unterkunft/ 179
See also pp723.
General Index
A Athena, Goddess 21, 22 blub-Badeparadies 65
Aalto, Alvar 99 Auguststrae 126, 127 Blue Man Group 17
Admiralspalast 118 Auguststrae No. 21 Court 127 Bocca di Bacco 74
Advice 146 Auguststrae No. 83 Court 127 Bodemuseum 114
General Index
gyptisches Museum 46 Book Burning 13, 113

Aigner 121 B Borchardt 74, 121
Airlines 161 b-flat 128 Botanischer Garten 701
Airports Babelsberg 155, 156 Botschaftsviertel 97
Schnefeld 161 Bad Saarow 167 Boumann, Johann 156
Tegel 161 Banks 165 Bovril 87
Tempelhof 106, 161 Bao-Bao (Panda) 36 Brandenburg Province 131
Akademie der Knste 9 Bar am Ltzowplatz 55 Brandenburger Hof 73
Aleppozimmer 21 Bar du Paris Bar 54 Brandenburger Tor 6, 89, 38, 113
Alex-Caf 136 Bar jeder Vernunft 567 Brandenburger Tor (Potsdam) 156
Alexanderkeller 137 Barenboim, Daniel 56 Brauerei Lemke 120
Alexanderplatz 1301 Barist 129 Brauhaus Georgbru 136
Alexandrowka 156 Barokoko 157 Brasserie Desbrosses 101
Alliiertenmuseum 90 Bars 545 Brustbl 149
Alliiertes Kontrollratsgebude 106 Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel Brazil 129
Alt-Luxemburg 87 128 Brecht, Bertolt 50, 124, 126
Alte Bibliothek 113 Central Berlin: Unter den Brecht-Weigel-Gedenksttte 50, 124
Alte Kommandantur 118 Linden 120 Breitscheidplatz 24
Alte Nationalgalerie 114 Prenzlauer Berg 143 Breschnew, Leonid 146
Alte Pumpe 101 Bauhaus-Archiv 49 Brhan-Museum 49
Alte Schnhauser Strae 126 Bebelplatz 13, 113 Bcherbogen 85
Alter Krug Dahlem 93 Becherer, Christian Friedrich 123 Buckow 167
Alter Markt 145 Beer Gardens 136 Budapester Schuhe 119
Altes Museum 39, 114 Behnisch, Gnter 9 Bundeskanzleramt 40
Altes Palais 113 BellUno 143 Bring, Johann Gottfried 153
Altes Rathaus (Potsdam) 156 Belvedere 29 Buses 162, 164
Altes Schloss 28 Bendlerblock 98 Disabled Visitors 164
Altes Zollhaus 109 Berlin Highlights 67 Guided Tours 168
Altstadtcaf Cpenick 148 Berlin on a Budget 171 Tickets 162
Ambulance 166 Berlin Story Wieland Giebel 119 Busse, August 35
Ambulance (bar) 128 Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH Butter Lindner 85
Ana e Bruno 75, 87 (BTM) 163
Anhalter Bahnhof 104 Berlin Wall 11, 14, 19, 43, 103, 146 C
Anita Wronski 143 Berlin, Alexanderplatz 131 Cabaret (Musical) 104
Appelt, Dieter 11 Berlin-Carr 135 Caf Adler 108
Ararat 107 Berlins Southeast 1449 Caf Aedes 86
Architecture Berliner Antik- und Flohmarkt 61 Caf am Neuen See 53, 101
Historic Buildings 389 Berliner Brse 81 Caf Balzac 86
Kurfrstendamm 25 Berliner Dom 44 Caf Berio 59
Modern Buildings 401 Berliner Ensemble 126 Caf Einstein 101
Museumsinsel 23 Berliner Fernsehturm 131 Caf Einstein Unter den Linden 120
Nazi Period 68, 116 Berliner Festwochen 62 Caf Ephraims 136
Potsdamer Platz 19 Berliner Filmfestspiele 62 Caf Filmbhne am Steinplatz 86
Stalinism 118, 133 Berliner Rathaus 38, 131 Caf Hardenberg 86
Argentinische Allee 90 Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) Caf Heider 157
Arriving in Berlin 161 162, 164, 166, 168 Caf Josty 16, 51
Ars Vitalis 69 Berlinische Galerie 49 Caf Kleine Orangerie 86
Art Galleries 489 Berndt, Kurt 39, 123 Caf Kranzler 25, 86
see also Museums Beth-Caf 129 Caf Krone 91
Assassination Attempt (20 July Beuys, Joseph 98 Caf L & B 148
1944) 98 Bicycle Hire 162 Caf Leysieffer 86
Assyrischer Palast 20 Blockhaus Nikolskoe 92, 93 Caf Liebig 148
180
Caf M 55 Churches (cont.) Diekmann im Chalet Suisse 93
Caf Oren 129 Nikolaikirche (Spandau) 79 Diener-Tattersaal 53
Caf Savigny 86 Parochialkirche 134 Dietrich, Marlene 12, 18, 50
Caf Wintergarten im St-Annen-Kirche 92 Diplomatenviertel 97
Literaturhaus 86 St-Hedwigskathedrale 12, 44, Disabled Visitors 164
General Index
Cafs 113 Discotheques
Alexanderplatz 136 St-Matthuskirche 33 Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel
Berlins Southeast 148 St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche 92, 128
Central Berlin: Around Potsdam 156 Gay & Lesbian 59
& Sanssouci 157 Sophienkirche 123, 126 Prenzlauer Berg 143
Charlottenburg & Spandau 86 Zionskirche 140 Dblin, Alfred 131
Prenzlauer Berg 143 Cinemas Doedens, Bruno 19, 35
Caputh 167 Cinemaxx 17 Domne Dahlem 65
Car Hire 162 Kulturbrauerei 139 Dorint Hotel am Gendarmenmarkt
Carillon 100 Cinemaxx 17 73
Carmerstrae 80 Clrchens Ballhaus 128 Dorotheenstdtischer Friedhof 124
Cecilienhof Cochon Bourgeois 128 Drei 143
see Palaces Concentration Camps 125, 140, Dressler Kurfrstendamm 87
Cemeteries 167 Dressler Unter den Linden 121
Dorotheenstdtischer 124 Connection 59 Dppel 91
Groe Hamburger Strae 125 Corbusier-Haus 84 Dutschke, Rudi 43
Hallesches Tor 106 Courtyards 39, 123
Jdischer Friedhof 125, 140 Coventry-Kreuz 27 E
Schnhauser Allee 140 Cranach, Lucas the Elder 14 East Germany
Central Berlin (Mitte) Credit Cards 160, 170 Capital 131
Alexanderplatz 1301 Crime 166 Design 142
Gendarmenmarkt 114 Currency 170 Fall 141
Scheunenviertel 1229 Cycling 68 Government 13, 115, 1167, 141
Unter den Linden 11221 750-Jahr-Feier Berlin 140
Centrum Judaicum 123 D State Security Service 141,
Chamleon-Variet 56 Dahlem 65, 889 145, 147
Charit 51, 126 Dahlem Museums 46, 89 East Side Gallery 146
Charlottenburg & Spandau 7887 Dahlem Villas 90 Economic Miracle 108
Charlottenburger Rathaus 82 DaimlerChrysler 17, 19 Edict of Potsdam 42, 114
Chausseestrae 124 Danziger Strae 139 Ehrenhalle 82
Checkpoint Charlie 47, 103, 108 Days Out 167 Eichmann, Adolf 89
Childrens Attractions 645, 160 Defne 109 Eiermann, Egon 267
Chinesisches Teehaus (Sanssouci) Delicious Doughnuts 128 Eierschale Haus Zenner 148
153 Department Store 206 60, 119 Einstein, Albert 50
Chipperfield, David 23 Department Stores 170 Eisenman, Peter 115
Christi-Auferstehungskirche 45 Department Store 206, 60,119 Ellis 149
Christo 11 Galeries Lafayette 60, 119 Embassies 160
Christopher Street Day 58, 62 Kaufhaus des Westens 60, 170 Austria 97, 160
Churches 445 Kaufhof Galleria 119, 131, 135 Estonia 100
Berliner Dom 44 Stilwerk 601 France 9
Christi-Auferstehungskirche 45 Depot 2 107 Great Britain 116
Deutscher Dom 114 DeRag Hotel Groer Kurfrst 73 India 97
Franziskanerkirche 134 Deutsch-Russisches Museum 145 Italy 97
Franzsische Kirche 156 Deutsche Guggenheim 49, 113 Japan 97
Franzsischer Dom 45, 114 Deutsche Oper 84 Mexico 97
Friedrichstadtkirche 114 Deutsche Staatsoper 113 Nordic 41, 97
Friedrichswerdersche Kirche 45 Deutscher Bundestag 10, 38, 43 Russia 13, 118
Heiliggeistkapelle 134 Deutscher Dom 114 Switzerland 160
Kaiser-Wilhelm- Deutsches Historisches Museum USA 9
Gedchtnis-Kirche 7, 267, 45 (DHM) 12, 145, 39, 46 Emergencies 166
Marienkirche 44, 132 Deutsches Technikmusem 47, 103 Emil 120
Nikolaikirche (Mitte) 44, 132 Deutsches Theater 57 Ende, Hermann 99
Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 155 DG Bank 8, 41 Endell, August 39, 123
181
Engelhart, Ludwig 132 Friedrich Wilhelm IV 31, 154 Groe Hamburger Strae 125,
Englischer Garten 100 Friedrichsfelde 147 140
Ephraim-Palais 133 Friedrichshagen 146, 147 Groer Bunkerberg 146
Equestrian Statue of Frederick the Friedrichshain 146 Groer Mggelsee 146
Great 13, 113 Friedrichstadtkirche 114 Groer Tiergarten 69, 70, 97
Ermisch, Richard 82 Friedrichstadtpalast 57, 115 Groer Wannsee 889, 93, 146
General Index
Erotik-Museum 84 Friedrichstadtpassagen 115 Grne Woche 63

Estonian Embassy 100 Friedrichstrae 57, 118, 170 Grunewald 70, 88, 91, 92
Ethnologisches Museum 89 Friedrichswerdersche Kirche 45 Grunewald & Dahlem 8893
Eugen-Guttmann-Haus 9 Funkturm 82 Grunewaldturm 92
Europa-Center 24 Furtwnglerstrae 90 Grunewaldturm-Restaurant 93
Excursions & Days Out 167 Gugelhof 143
G Guest Workers 104
F Galerie Bremer 55 Guided Tours 168

Facil 75, 101 Galerie Brusberg 25
Fairs 623 Galeries Lafayette 60, 119 H
Famous Berliners 501 Galopprennbahn Hoppegarten 68 Hackbarths 52
Fasanenplatz 81 Gandino, Francesco Chiaramelle Hackesche Hfe 389, 123, 129
Fasanenstrae 25, 801 de 79 Hackescher Hof 129
Fassbender & Rausch 119 Gardens Hackescher Markt 73
Federal District 967 see Parks & Gardens Hallhuber 85
Federal Ministry of Defence 98 Gay & Lesbian Attractions 589 Hamburger Bahnhof 48, 98
Federal Ministry of Finance 116 Christopher Street Day 62 Hanffs Ruh 148
Federal President 38, 43 Information 163 Hansa-Viertel 99
Festivals & Fairs 623 Nazi Persecution 104 Harrys New York Bar 54
Fichte, Johann Gottlieb 124 Gehry, Frank O. 8, 41 Hasir 109
Filmmuseum 16, 18 Gemldegalerie 32, 34, 48 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 47,
Filmmuseum Potsdam 155 Gendarmenmarkt 73, 114, 120 103
Filmpark Babelsberg 645, Georg-Kolbe-Museum 84 Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz 89
155 German Empire 15, 116 Haus Liebermann 9
First Floor 74, 87 Gethsemanekirche 141 Havel 156
Fitness Centres 69 Getting Around Berlin 162 Health 166
Flavin, Dan 113 Gipsformerei Staatliche Hebbel-Theater 57
Florian 87 Museen 61 Heckmann-Hfe 127, 129
Flussbad Kpenick 145 Golgatha 108 Hegel, Georg W. F. 51, 124
Fontane, Theodor 51 Gontard, Carl von 153, 156 Heiliger See 154, 157
Forsthaus Paulsborn 93 Grand Hyatt 19, 72 Heiliggeistkapelle 134
Forum Fridericianum Graves Hellmann 85
123, 42, 113 Brecht, Bertolt 124 Helmholtzplatz 142
Foster, Norman Sir 10, 92 Fichte, Johann Gottlieb 124 Henry-Ford-Bau 92
FrancoPrussian War 14, 79, 97 Hegel, Georg W.F. 124 Hertha BSC 68
Frankfurt/Oder 167 Kleist, Heinrich von 92 High-Lite 107
Frankfurter Allee 423, 133 Liebermann, Max 140 Historic Buildings 389
Franziskanerkirche 134 Mann, Heinrich 124 Historic Events 423
Franzsische Kirche 156 Mendelssohn, Moses 125 Historic Port 134
Franzsischer Dom 45, 114 Meyerbeer, Giacomo 140 Historische Weinstuben 136
Frederick II (the Great) 123, 15, Schadow ,Johann G. 124 Hitler, Adolf 11, 98, 116
29, 30, 31, 42, 47, 113, 1523 Schinkel, Karl F. 124 Hochbunker 126
Freie Universitt (FU) 92 Stler, Friedrich A. 124 Hof Joachimstrae 127
freiheit fnfzehn 149 Vogel, Henriette 92 Hohenschnhausen 147
Freilichtmuseum (Dppel) 91 Great Elector 15, 31, 42, 114 Hohenzollern 26, 31
French Community 45, 114 Greens 136 Hollndisches Viertel 1545
Friedrich I 30, 31,145 Green Door 52, 108 Holocaust 89, 115
Friedrich von Hohenzollern 31 Grimm, Wilhelm 51 Holocaust-Denkmal 115
Friedrich Wilhelm I 29, 31, 42 Grimm, Jacob 51 Hotel Adlon Berlin 8, 72
see also Great Elector Grips-Theater 64 Hotel Savoy 73
Friedrich Wilhelm II 29, 30, 70 Grober Unfug Comics 107 Hotels 723, 1729
Friedrich Wilhelm III 29, 31 Gropius, Walter 99 & Guesthouses with Charm 178
182
Hotels (cont.) Kant-Dreieck 41, 81 Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) 7,
Budget Hotels and hostels 177 Kantstrae 801 245, 789
Designer Hotels 174 Karajan, Herbert von 50 Kurvenstar 128
Famous Hotels 723 Karl-Marx-Allee 133
for Business Travellers 175 Karneval der Kulturen 63 L
General Index
in Green Surroundings 176 Kartoffelhaus No. 1 137 Label 205 (bar) 120
Luxury Hotels 179 Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum 81, 83 Labyrinth Kindermuseum 64
Medium-Priced Hotels 173 Kaufhof Galeria 131, 135 Lakes, Rivers & Canals 667
Modest Hotels & Hostels 171, Kempinski Hotel Bristol Berlin 72, Groer Mggelsee 66, 146
172 81 Groer Wannsee 66, 889, 93,
House Boats 100 Kennedy, John F. 43, 106 146
Hugenotten 42, 45, 114, 156 Kiboko 149 Landwehrkanal 67
Hugos 101 Kietz Caf und Restaurant 148 Lietzensee 67
Humann, Carl 23 Kings Teagarden 85 Neuer See 67
Humboldt, Wilhelm von 13 Kleihues, Josef Paul 41 Schlachtensee 66
Humboldt-Universitt 13, 113 Klein-Glienicke 89 Spree 66
Husemannstrae 140 Kleist, Heinrich von 92 Tegeler See 67
Klipper Schiffsrestaurant 149 Teufelssee 66
I Knaack-Club 143 Landwehrkanal 67, 100

Iduna-Haus 25 Knobelsdorff, Georg Wenzeslaus Lange Nacht der Museen 623
Information & Advice 163 von 123, 29, 113, 153 Langhans Carl Gotthard 8, 29, 118,
Inline Skating 69 Knoblauchhaus 132 132, 154
Internationale Funkausstellung 62 Koch, Robert 51, 126 Lapidarium 106
Internationale Tourismusbrse 63 Kolhoff, Hans 19 Le-Corbusier-Haus 84
Internationales Congress Centrum Kollwitz, Kthe 13, 51, 83, 139 Le Provencal 137
(ICC) 623, 82 Kollwitz Monument 139 LebensArt 120
Isherwood, Christopher 104 Kollwitzplatz 139 Lehmofen 149
Ishtar Gate 20 Komfort 128 Lehniner Platz 25
Komische Oper 118 Lenn Peter Joseph 29, 70, 89,
J Knigs-Wusterhausen 167 90, 97, 98, 146
Jagdschloss Grunewald 91 Konzerthaus see Schauspielhaus Leydicke, E. & M. 52
Jahn, Helmut 16, 19, 25 Koons, Jeff 17, 98 Liebermann, Max 9, 140
Jil Sander 85 Kpenick 1445 Lietzensee 67
Jopp Frauenfitness 69 Koppenplatz 126 Lindenlife 120
Jews Kottbusser Tor 106 Lindenthaler Allee 90
Cemeteries 125, 140 KPM (Knigliche Porzellan-Manu- Linie 1 (Musical) 64
Groe Hamburger Strae 125 faktur) 61, 85 Literaturhaus 81
Holocaust Memorial 115 Kreuzberg & Schneberg 1029 Lola-Lounge 52
Neue Synagoge 123 Krokodil 149 Loretta am Wannsee 93
Old Peoples Home 125 Kronprinzenpalais 13 Lortzing Monument 100
Oranienburger Strae 123 Krumme Lanke 67 Lost Property 166
Scheunenviertel 122129 Kudamm 7, 245, 789 Love Parade 62
Synagoge Rykestrae 141 Kudamm-Eck 25 Lwenbrcke 100
Jdischer Friedhof Schnhauser Kulturbrauerei 139 Lubitsch 87
Allee 140 Kulturforum 7, 325, 401, 97 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 40, 81
Jdisches Gemeindehaus 801, 84 Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann 115, 119 Luise 93
Jdisches Museum 46, 103 Kumpelnest 3000 108 Lustgarten 39
Juliusturm 79 Kunst 489 Lutter & Wegener
Juwelier Ren Kern 119 Kunst- und Antikmarkt Strae des Gendarmenmarkt 75, 121
17. Juni 60, 85
K Kunstbibliothek 33 M
KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) Kunstgewerbemuseum 33, 47 MaaenZehn 107
60, 170 Kunsthof 127 Mach, Werner 68
Kfer im Reichstag 101 Knstlerhaus Bethanien 106 Mchtig, Hermann 105
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedchtnis-Kirche Kunstsalon 119 Madeleine 157
7, 24, 267, 45 Kunstwerke (Galerie) 127 Maison Charlotte 157
Kammergericht 106 Kupferstichkabinett 33, 49 Mann-o-Meter 58
Kammermusiksaal 33, 41 Kurfrsten 25, 31, 70, 91 Malatesta 121
183
Marcellino 137 Monuments (cont.) Museums (cont.)
Mrchenbrunnen 147 Kthe Kollwitz 139 Museum fr Islamische Kunst 23
Margaux 74, 121 Marx-Engels-Forum 132 Museum fr Kommunikation 117
Marheineke-Markthalle 107 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal Museum fr Naturkunde 49, 124
Mariannenplatz 106 (Tiergarten) 98 Museum fr Ostasiatische
Marienkirche 44, 132 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal Kunst 89
General Index
Markets 601 (Treptow) 71, 146 Museum fr Pathologie 126

Marheineke-Markthalle 107 Morena-Bar 52 Museum fr Vor- und
Trkenmarkt Maybachufer 107 Mosse-Palais 106 Frhgeschichte 29
Winterfeldtplatz 107 Motorways 161 Museumdorf Dppel 64, 91
Mrkisches Museum 132 Mggelsee Museumsinsel 23, 114
Mrkisches Ufer 134 see Groer Mggelsee Musikinstrumentenmuseum
Markttor von Milet 20 Mggelturm 146 33, 47
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 17, 72 Mnze 134 Neue Nationalgalerie 32, 40, 48
Marstall 155 Museums 467 Neues Museum 114
Martin-Gropius-Bau 105 Alliiertenmuseum 90 Newton-Sammlung 823
Marx-Engels-Forum 132 (Alte) Nationalgalerie 48, 114 Nikolaikirche (Mitte) 132
Mauerpark 142 Altes Museum 39, 114 Pergamonmuseum 7, 203,
Max-Schmeling-Halle 142 Bauhaus-Archiv 49 46 114
Maxim-Gorki-Theater 118 Berlinische Galerie 49 Potsdam-Museum 156
Maxwell 129 Brecht-Weigel-Gedenksttte Prenzlauer Berg Museum 142
Mehringplatz 106 50, 124 Puppentheatermuseum 65
Memorials Brhan-Museum 49 Sammlung Berggruen 49
Brecht-Weigel-Gedenksttte 124 Dahlem Museums 46, 89 Sammlung Industrielle
Deutscher Widerstand 98 Deutsch-Russisches Museum Schwules Museum 59
Groe Hamburger Strae 125 145 The Story of Berlin 25
Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz 89 Deutsche Guggenheim 49, 113 Topographie des Terrors 103
Hohenschnhausen 147 Deutscher Dom 114 Vitra Design Museum 139
Memorial for Members of the Deutsches Historisches Musicaltheater Berlin 17
Reichstag 11 Museum 12, 145, 39, 46 Mutter Hoppe 137
Memorial for Victims of Deutsches Technikmuseum 47,
the Wall 11 64, 103 N
Neue Wache 13 Domne Dahlem 65 National Museums 163
Normannenstrae 145 Ephraim-Palais 133 Nationalgalerie siehe Museen
Sowjetisches Ehrenmal 98 Erotik-Museum 84 Nazism
Memorial for Victims of the Wall 11 Ethnologisches Museum 89 Architecture 116
Mendelssohn, Moses 51, 125 Filmmuseum 16, 18 Concentration Camps 14, 125, 140
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Felix Filmpark Babelsberg 645, 155 Enabling Act 11
51, 106 Gemldegalerie 23, 34, 48 Film 18
Merhaba 109 Georg-Kolbe-Museum 84 Gestapo 103
Messegelnde 82 Gestaltung 142 Olympic Games 68, 23
Metropoltheater 104, 118 Hamburger Bahnhof 48 Resistance 98, 141
Mexikoplatz 90 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie SA 15, 141
Meyerbeer, Giacomo 140 47, 103 Seizing Power 11, 15
Mister Hu 55, 108 Historic Port 134 SS 15, 125
Modellhut 129 Jagdschloss Grunewald 91 War Criminals 154
Modern buildings 401 Jdisches Museum 46, 103 Nefertiti 46
Mohrenkolonnaden 118 Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum 81, 83 Neptunbrunnen 133
Molotow 107 Knoblauchhaus 132 Nering, Johann Arnold 15, 28,
Monbijoupark 126 Kulturforum 7, 325 134, 145
Money 160, 165 Kunstgewerbemuseum 33, 47, Neu-Helgoland 148
Monuments 145 Neue Nationalgalerie 32, 40, 48
Alois Senefelder 142 Kupferstichkabinett 33, 49 Neue Reichskanzlei 116
Benno Ohnesorg 84 Labyrinth Kindermuseum 64 Neue Schnhauser Str. 126
Equestrian Statue of Frederick Mrkisches Museum 132 Neue Synagoge 45, 123, 132
the Great 13, 113 Martin-Gropius-Bau 105 Neue Wache 13, 51
Great Elector 29 Museum der Gegenwart Neuer Flgel, Schloss
Holocaust 115 (Hamburger Bahnhof) 48, 98 Charlottenburg 2830
184
Neuer Pavillon, Schloss Palaces (cont.) Preuischer Hof 157
Charlottenburg 29 Schloss Friedrichsfelde 71, 146 Prinz-Eisenherz-Buchhandlung 59
Neuer See 53, 67, 100, 101 Schloss Klein-Glienicke 89, 93 Prussia
Neues Kranzler-Eck 25 Schloss Rheinsberg 167 Architecture 31, 90, 1523
Neues Palais 153 Schloss Sanssouci 1523, 163 Hohenzollern 31
General Index
Newton-Bar 54, 120 Schlossruine Pfaueninsel 70, 89 Kulturbesitz (Stiftung) 99
Newton-Sammlung 823 Stadtschloss 116 Sanssouci 1525
Nicholas I, Tsar 92 Palais am Festungsgraben 118 Wars 71, 97
Nightlife 1223 Palais am Pariser Platz 9 Pubs 523
Nikolaikirche (Mitte) 45, 132 Palais Podewil 134 Central Berlin: Around
Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 155 Pan Asia 129 Alexanderplatz 136
Nikolaikirche (Spandau) 79 Paris Bar 87 Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel
Nikolaiviertel 44, 132 Paris-Moskau 101 128
90 Grad 108 Pariser Platz 6, 89, 41 Central Berlin: Unter den
No. 52 109 Parks & Gardens 701, 169 Linden 120
Nollendorfplatz 104 Babelsberg 156 Prenzlauer Berg 143
Nordic Embassies 41, 97 Botanischer Garten 701 Puppenstube 135
Normannenstrae 145 Groer Tiergarten 70, 97 Puppentheatermuseum 65
November (Caf) 143 Grunewald 701, 889
Monbijoupark 126 Q
O Pfaueninsel 70, 89 Quadriga 8, 132
O & G (bar) 128 Schloss Britz und Park 71 Quadriga (Restaurant) 73
Oberbaumbrcke 10 Schlosspark Charlottenburg Quartier 205207 115
Oderberger Strae 142 29, 70
Ohnesorg, Benno 84 Schlosspark Sanssouci 1534 R
Old Town (Kpenick) 145 Thlmannpark 142 Raabe-Diele 137
Olympiastadion 68, 84 Treptower Park 71, 146 Radio Stations 163
Olympic Games 1936 23, 68 Viktoriapark 71, 105 Railway Stations
Olympic Games 2000 142 Volkspark Friedrichshain 71, Anhalter 104
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung 92 1467 Ostbahnhof 161
Opening Hours 170 Parochialkirche 134 Zoo 161
Opera Pasternak 143 Railways 161
see Deutsche Oper and Pei, Ieoh Ming 15, 39 Rathaus Schneberg 43, 106
Staatsoper Unter den Linden Performing Arts Venues 567 Ratskeller Kpenick 149
Opernpalais 120 Pergamon Altar 20, 223 Rattle, Simon Sir 32
Operntreff 120 Pergamonmuseum 7, 203, 46, 114 Rauch, Daniel Christian 13, 113
Orangerie (Sanssouci) 154 Persephone, Goddess 21 Refugium 121
Oranienburger Strae 123 Pesne, Antoine 153 Regent Berlin 72
Oranienplatz 107 Pfaueninsel 70, 89 Regierender Brgermeister 131
Oranienstrae 104, 107 Pfefferberg 142 Reich Ministry of Aviation 116
Osteria No. 1 109 Philharmonie 32, 35, 41, 56 Reichskanzlei 98, 116
Oxymoron 129 Philip-Johnson-Haus 41 Reichskristallnacht 123, 141
Piano, Renzo 19 Reichstag 6, 101, 38, 43
P Piscator, Erwin 104 Reingold 55

Palace of Mshatta 21 Planning your Trip 160 Reinhards 137
Palaces Podewil 134 Reinhardt, Max 57, 126
Friedrichsfelde 147 Portzamparc, Christian de 9 Remise in Schloss Klein-Glienicke 93
Jagdschloss Grunewald 91 Porzellankabinett 28 Reservations 169
Kpenicker Schloss 145 Post Offices 165 Restaurant Juliette 157
Marmorpalais 154 Postfuhramt 123, 125 Restaurant Kfer 11
Neues Palais 153 Potsdam & Sanssouci 1528, 163 Restaurants 745
Schloss Babelsberg 156 Potsdam Conference 154 Berlins Southeast 149
Schloss Bellevue 38 Potsdam-Museum 156 Central Berlin: Around
Schloss Britz 71 Potsdamer Platz 6, 1619 Alexanderplatz 137
Schloss Cecilienhof 154, 158 Pranzo e Cena 109 Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel
Schloss Charlottenburg 7, Prater 139, 143 129
2831, 38, 70 Prenzlauer Berg 13843 Central Berlin: Unter den
Schloss Charlottenhof 154 Prenzlauer Berg Museum 142 Linden 120
185
Restaurants (cont.) Schliemann, Heinrich 29 Soultrane 81, 87
Charlottenburg & Spandau 87 Schloss-Caf 148 Souvenir Shops 132, 170
Grunewald & Dahlem 93 Schlosshotel im Grunewald 72 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
Kreuzberg & Schneberg 109 Schlossinsel (Kpenick) 145 (Tiergarten) 98
Potsdam & Sanssouci 157 Schlossplatz 1167 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
Prenzlauer Berg 143 Schlter, Andreas 14, 15, 29 (Treptow) 71, 146
General Index
Restaurants & Beer Gardens 93 Schnefeld, Airport 161 Spandau 789

Restaurantschiff Hoppentosse 148 Schnhauser Allee 139 Spandauer Vorstadt (Mitte) 122, 124
Restauration 1900 143 Schrrs Biergarten 149 Speckers Zur Ratswaage 157
Ribbeckhaus 134 Schler, Ralf 82 Speer, Albert 116
Riehmers Hofgarten 105 Schler-Witte, Ursulina 82 Spielbank Berlin 17
Ritz-Carlton Berlin 73 Schultes, Axel 40 Spindel (Restaurant) 149
Riva (Bar) 128 Schultheiss-Brauerei 139 Sport & Fitness Venues 689
Riva, La (Restaurant) 137 Schlerplatz 145 Sport Oase 69
Rogers, Richard Sir 19 Schwarzenraben 129 Sports Highlights 63
Rohe, Mies van der 35, 40, 49 Schwarzes Caf 86 Spree 66
Rmische Bder (Sanssouci) 154 Schwechten, Franz 104, 139 Spreewald 167
Rosenthaler Str. No. 37 127 Schwules Museum 59 SS 15, 125
Rosenthaler Strae 123 SchwuZ 58 SS 20 Rocket 14
Russian Embassy 13, 118 Seasons 75, 121 Staatsbibliothek 33
Rykestrae 45, 141 Security 166 Staatsoper Unter den Linden 12,
SED 133 42, 56
S Seeling, Heinrich 126 Staatsratsgebude 1167
S-Bahn Stations Seerestaurant Hotel Stadtbad Neuklln 69
Alexanderplatz 131 Mggelsee/Rbezahl 148 Stadtbad Prenzlauer Berg 142
Friedrichstrae 115, 118 Senefelder, Alois 142 Stadtgericht 134
Mexikoplatz 90 Senefelderplatz 139, 142 Stadtmauer 134
Nollendorfplatz 104 Sergijewski, Nikolai 98 Stadtschloss 116
Saviygnyplatz 80 750-Year Anniversary 140 Stalin, Joseph 154
SA 15, 141 17 June 1953 423, 84 Stndige Vertretung 120
Sachsenhausen (concentration Shopping 601, 170 Stasi-Gefngnis 147
camp) 167 Alexanderplatz 131, 135 State Security Service (Stasi) 141,
Sacrow 167 Central Berlin: Around 145, 147
Safety 166 Alexanderplatz 135 Stauffenberg, Claus Schenk Graf
Sagebiel, Ernst 106, 116 Central Berlin: Unter den von 98
Sale e Tabacchi 109 Linden 119 Stiftung Preuischer Kulturbesitz 99
Sammlung Berggruen 49 Charlottenburg & Spandau 85 Stilwerk 601, 85
Sammlung Industrielle Gestaltung Fasanenstrae 81 Stolpe 92
142 Friedrichstrae 115, 119, 170 Storch 109
Sander, Jil 108 Galeries Lafayette 115, 119 Strandbad Rahnsdorf 146
St-Annen-Kirche 92 Kreuzberg & Schneberg 107 Strandbad Wannsee 66, 90
St-Hedwigskathedrale 12, 44, 113 Kurfrstendamm 245, 170 Strandbar Mitte 52
St-Matthuskirche 33 Potsdamer Platz Arkaden 17, 170 Students (Reductions) 160
St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche 92, 156 Quartier 206 115, 119 Stler, Friedrich A. 33, 35, 92, 124,
Sanssouci 31, 152155 Shops & Markets 601 154, 156
Saturn 135 see also Shopping Synagogues 445
Savignypassage 80 Siegessule 39, 97 Jdisches Gemeindehaus 801,
Savignyplatz 80 Siegessule (Magazine) 58 84
Schadow, Johann Gottfried 8, 124 Sky Club 136 Neue Synagoge 45, 123, 132
Scharoun, Hans 33, 35, 41 S0 36 (Disco) 59 Rykestrae 45, 141
Schauspielhaus 38, 114 Sony Center 6, 16, 19, 40
Scheibe, Richard 98 Sophie-Charlotte 28 T
Schell 87 Sophie-Gips-Hfe 127 Tacheles 124
Scheunenviertel 73, 1229 Sophie-Luise (Queen) 123 Taxis 162
Schinkel, Karl Friedrich 13, 29, 38, Sophienhfe 127 Technische Universitt 84
39, 45, 90, 105, 124, 154, 155, 156 Sophienkirche 123, 126 Teddys Spielwaren 135
Schleusenbrcken 100 Sophienstrae 22a 127 Teeladen 135
Schleusenkrug 101 Sophienstrae 123, 127 Tegel, Airport 161
186
Tegeler See 67 Victoria, Goddess of Victory 97 Winterfeldtplatz 61, 104, 107
Telecaf 131, 136 Viktoriapark 71, 105, 108 Wintergarten Variet 56
Telegrafenberg 156 Villa Grisebach 81 Wirtshaus Schildhorn 93
Telephones 165 Villa Kellermann 157 Wirtshaus zur Pfaueninsel 93
Teltower Damm 92 Villa Maren 90 Wisniewski, Edgar 33, 35, 41
General Index
Tempodrom 104 Villa von der Heydt 99 WMF-Haus 118
Tenement blocks 92, 1389 Villas, Dahlem 90 Wohltatsche Buchhandlung
Teufelsberg 70, 92 Vivo 101 135
Teufelssee 66, 70, 92 Voigt, Wilhelm 145, 149 Workers Uprising in East
Thlmannpark 142 Volksbhne 57 Germany (17 June 1953)
The Story of Berlin 25 Volkspark Friedrichshain 71, 423, 84
Theater des Westens 57 1467 World War II
Theatertreffen Berlin 63 Vostrae 116 Destruction 23, 24, 267,
Theft 166 Vox 74 28, 42, 131, 132, 146
Theodor Tucher 121 Planning 116
Thringischer Weihnachtsmarkt 135 W Post-War Years 18, 42
Tiergarten 967, 99 Waage 157 Potsdam Conference 154
Tiergarten & Federal District 96101 Waesemann, Hermann F. 38, 131 Surrender 42, 145
Tierpark Friedrichsfelde 71, 147 Walks Wrgeengel 108
Toms Bar 589 Berlins Southeast 147
Toni-Lessler-Strae 90 Central Berlin: Around Y
Totentanz, Der 132 Alexanderplatz 133 Yan Yan (Panda) 36
Tourist Information 163 Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel Yorkschlsschen 108
Trabrennbahn Mariendorf 68 125 Yosoy 128
Trnenpalast 118 Central Berlin: Unter den YVA Suite 53
Treptow 1445 Linden 115, 117
Treptower Park 71, 146 Charlottenburg & Spandau 81, 83 Z
Treuhandanstalt 116 Grunewald & Dahlem 91 Zander 143
Trompete 54 Kpenick 147 Zar Nikolaus I. 92
Tucholskystrae 126 Kreuzberg & Schneberg 105 Zehlendorf 88, 90, 92
Trkenmarkt Maybachufer 107 Potsdam & Sanssouci 155 ZEISS-Groplanetarium 65, 142
Turks 104 Prenzlauer Berg 141 Zeughaus 12, 15, 39
20 July 1944 98 Wannsee 889, 93 Zille-Hof 85
The Twenties 16, 18, 19, 24, 42, Wannsee Conference 89 Zionskirche 140
51, 118 Warhol, Andy 98 Zionskirchplatz 140
Wars of Liberation 105 Zitadelle Spandau 79
U Wasserturm 1401 ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof)

U- and S-Bahnhof Alexanderplatz Wasserwerk Sanssouci 156 161
135 Watteau, Antoine 30, 34, 153 Zoos
U-Bahn 162 Weigel, Helene 50, 124 Tierpark Friedrichsfelde 71,
UFA-Studios 64, 155 Weinhaus Huth 16, 19 147
Ungers, O.M. 23 WelcomeCard 163, 171 Zoologischer Garten 7, 367,
Universitt der Knste 84 Weltkugelbrunnen 24 65, 79
Unter den Linden 6, 123, 123 Werder 167 Zucca 128
When to go 160 Zum Fischerkietz 136
V Wilford, Michael 116 Zum Nubaum 52, 136

Van Loon 108 Wilhelm I, Kaiser 267, 92 Zum Paddenwirt 137
Vau 74, 121 Wilhelm II, Kaiser 31 Zur Gerichtslaube 137
Velodrom 68 Wilhelmstrae 116 Zur letzten Instanz 136
Velotaxis 162, 168 Windhorst 120 Zwiebelfisch 53
187
Acknowledgements
The Author Picture Credits
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Acknowledgements
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189
Phrase Book
In an Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Where is the Wo ist das voh ist duss I would like Ich mchte ish mer-shtuh
telephone? Telefon? tel-e-fone? to make a telefonieren tel-e-fon-eern
Help! Hilfe! hilf-uh phone call
Please call a Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roofn zee Ill try again Ich versuche noch ish fair-zookh-uh
Phrase Book
doctor einen Arzt ine-en artst later ein mal spter nokh ine-mull
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roofn zee shpay-ter
police die Polizei dee poli-tsy Can I leave a Kann ich eine kan ish ine-uh
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roofn zee message? Nachricht nakh-risht
fire brigade die Feuerwehr dee foyer-vayr hinterlassen? hint-er-lahss-en
Stop! Halt! hult answer phone Anrufbeantworter an-roof-be-ahnt-
vort-er
Communication Essentials telephone card Telefonkarte tel-e-fohn-kart-uh
Yes Ja yah receiver Hrer hur-er
No Nein nine mobile Handi han-dee
Please Bitte bitt-uh engaged (busy) besetzt bzetst
Thank you Danke dunk-uh wrong number Falsche falsh-uh
Excuse me Verzeihung fair-tsy-hoong Verbindung fair-bin-doong
Hello (good day) Guten Tag goot-en tahk
Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen owf-veed-er- Sight-Seeing
zay-ern library Bibliothek bib-leo-tek
Good evening Guten Abend gootn ahbnt entrance ticket Eintrittskarte ine-tritz-kart-uh
Good night Gute Nacht goot-uh nukht cemetery Friedhof freed-hofe
Until tomorrow Bis morgen biss morgn train station Bahnhof barn-hofe
See you Tschss chooss gallery Galerie gall-er-ree
What is that? Was ist das? voss ist duss information Auskunft owss-koonft
Why? Warum? var-room church Kirche keersh-uh
Where? Wo? voh garden Garten gartn
When? Wann? vunn palace/castle Palast/Schloss pallast/shloss
today heute hoyt-uh place (square) Platz plats
tomorrow morgen morgn bus stop Haltestelle hal-te-shtel-uh
month Monat mohn-aht national holiday Nationalfeiertag nats-yon-ahl-fire-
night Nacht nukht tahk
afternoon Nachmittag nahkh-mit-tahk theatre Theater tay-aht-er
morning Morgen morgn free admission Eintritt frei ine-tritt fry
year Jahr yar
there dort dort Shopping
here hier hear Do you have/ Gibt es...? geept ess
week Woche vokh-uh Is there...?
yesterday gestern gestn How much Was kostet das? voss kostt duss?
evening Abend ahbnt does it cost?
When do you Wann vunn
Useful Phrases open/ ffnen Sie? offn zee
How are you? Wie gehts? vee gayts close? schliessen Sie? shleesn zee
(informal) this das duss
Fine, thanks Danke, es geht dunk-uh, es gayt expensive teuer toy-er
mir gut meer goot cheap preiswert price-vurt
Where is/are? Wo ist/sind...? voh ist/sind size Grsse gruhs-uh
How far is it to...? Wie weit ist es...? vee vite ist ess number Nummer noom-er
Do you speak Sprechen Sie shpreshn zee colour Farbe farb-uh
English? Englisch? eng-glish brown braun brown
I dont Ich verstehe ish fair-shtay-uh black schwarz shvarts
understand nicht nisht red rot roht
Could you speak Knnten Sie kurnt-en zee blue blau blau
more slowly? langsamer lung-zam-er green grn groon
sprechen? shpreshn yellow gelb gelp
Useful Words Types of Shop

large gross grohss antique shop Antiquariat antik-var-yat
small klein kline chemist Apotheke appo-tay-kuh
hot heiss hyce (pharmacy)
cold kalt kult bank Bank bunk
good gut goot market Markt markt
bad bse/schlecht burss-uh/shlesht travel agency Reisebro rye-zer-boo-roe
open geffnet gurff-nett department store Warenhaus vahrn-hows
closed geschlossen gshlossn chemists, Drogerie droog-er-ree
left links links drugstore
right rechts reshts hairdresser Friseur freezz-er
straight ahead geradeaus grah-der-owss newspaper kiosk Zeitungskiosk tsytoongs-kee-osk
190
bookshop Buchhandlung bookh-hant-loong Artischocke arti-shokh-uh- artichoke
bakery Bckerei beck-er-eye Aubergine or-ber-jeen-uh aubergine
post office Post posst (eggplant)
shop/store Geschft/Laden gush-eft/lardn Banane bar-narn-uh banana
film processing Photogeschft fo-to-gush-eft Beefsteack beef-stayk steak
Phrase Book
shop Bier beer beer
self-service Selbstbedienungs- selpst-bed-ee- Bockwurst bokh-voorst a type of
shop laden nungs-lardn sausage
shoe shop Schuhladen shoo-lardn Bohnensuppe burn-en-zoop-uh bean soup
clothes shop Kleiderladen, klyder-lardn Branntwein brant-vine spirits
Boutique boo-teek-uh Bratkartoffeln brat-kar-toffln fried potatoes
food shop Lebensmittel- lay-bens-mittel- Bratwurst brat-voorst fried sausage
geschft gush-eft Brtchen bret-tchen bread roll
glass, porcelain Glas, Porzellan glars, Brot brot bread
Port-sellahn Brhe bruh-uh broth
Butter boot-ter butter
Staying in a Hotel Champignon shum-pin-yong mushroom
Do you have Haben Sie noch harbn zee nokh Currywurst kha-ree-voorst sausage with
any vacancies? Zimmer frei? tsimm-er-fry curry sauce
with twin beds? mit zwei Betten? mitt tsvy bettn Dill dill dill
with a mit einem mitt inem Ei eye egg
double bed? Doppelbett? doppl-bet Eis ice ice/ ice cream
with a bath? mit Bad? mitt bart Ente ent-uh duck
with a shower? mit Dusche? mitt doosh-uh Erdbeeren ayrt-beern strawberries
I have a Ich habe eine ish harb-uh ine-uh Fisch fish fish
reservation Reservierung rez-er-veer-oong Forelle for-ell-uh trout
key Schlssel shloossl Frikadelle Frika-dayl-uh rissole/
porter Pfrtner pfert-ner hamburger
Gans ganns goose
Eating Out Garnele gar-nayl-uh prawn/shrimp
Do you have a Haben Sie einen harbn zee ine-uhn gebraten gbraatn fried
table for...? Tisch fr...? tish foor gegrillt ggrilt grilled
I would like to Ich mchte eine ish mer-shtuh ine- gekocht gkokht boiled
reserve a table Reservierung uh rezer-veer- geruchert growk-ert smoked
machen oong makhn Geflgel gfloogl poultry
Im a vegetarian Ich bin Vegetarier ish bin vegg-er-tah- Gemse gmooz-uh vegetables
ree-er Grtze grurt-ser groats, gruel
Waiter! Herr Ober! hair oh-bare! Gulasch goo-lush goulash
The bill (check), Die Rechnung, dee resh-noong Gurke goork-uh gherkin
please bitte bitt-uh Hammelbraten hamml-braatn roast mutton
breakfast Frhstck froo-shtock Hhnchen haynshn chicken
lunch Mittagessen mit-targ-essn Hering hair-ing herring
dinner Abendessen arbnt-essn Himbeeren him-beern raspberries
bottle Flasche flush-uh Honig hoe-nikh honey
dish of the day Tagesgericht tahg-es-gur-isht Kaffee kaf-fay coffee
main dish Hauptgericht howpt-gur-isht Kalbfleisch kalp-flysh veal
dessert Nachtisch nahkh-tish Kaninchen ka-neenshn rabbit
cup Tasse tass-uh Karpfen karpfn carp
wine list Weinkarte vine-kart-uh Kartoffelpree kar-toffl-poor-ay mashed
tankard Krug khroog potatoes
glass Glas glars Kse kayz-uh cheese
spoon Lffel lerffl Kaviar kar-vee-ar caviar
teaspoon Teelffel tay-lerffl Knoblauch knob-lowkh garlic
tip Trinkgeld trink-gelt Kndel knerdl noodle
knife Messer mess-er Kohl koal cabbage
starter Vorspeise for-shpize-uh Kopfsalat kopf-zal-aat lettuce
(appetizer) Krebs krayps crab
the bill Rechnung resh-noong Kuchen kookhn cake
plate Teller tell-er Lachs lahkhs salmon
fork Gabel gahbl Leber lay-ber liver
mariniert mari-neert marinated
Menu Decoder Marmelade marmer-lard-uh marmalade, jam
Aa arl eel Meerrettich may-re-tish horseradish
Apfel upfl apple Milch milsh milk
Apfelschorle upfl-shoorl-uh apple juice with Mineralwasser minn-er-arl-vuss-er mineral water
sparkling Mhre mer-uh carrot
mineral water Nuss nooss nut
Apfelsine upfl-seen-uh orange l erl oil
Aprikose upri-kawz-uh apricot Olive o-leev-uh olive
191
Petersilie payt-er-zee-li-uh parsley 9 neun noyn
Pfeffer pfeff-er pepper 10 zehn tsayn
Pfirsich pfir-zish peach 11 elf elf
Pflaumen pflow-men plum 12 zwlf tserlf
Pommes frites pomm-fritt chips/ 13 dreizehn dry-tsayn
Phrase Book
French fries 14 vierzehn feer-tsayn

Quark kvark soft cheese 15 fnfzehn foonf-tsayn
Radieschen ra-deeshn radish 16 sechzehn zex-tsayn
Rinderbraten rind-er-bratn joint of beef 17 siebzehn zeep-tsayn
Rinderroulade rind-er-roo-lard-uh beef olive 18 achtzehn uhkht-tsayn
Rindfleisch rint-flysh beef 19 neunzehn noyn-tsayn
Rippchen rip-shn cured pork rib 20 zwanzig tsvunn-tsig
Rotkohl roht-koal red cabbage 21 einundzwanzig ine-oont-
Rben rhoobn turnip tsvunn-tsig
Rhrei rhoo-er-eye scrambled eggs 30 dreissig dry-sig
Saft zuft juice 40 vierzig feer-sig
Salat zal-aat salad 50 fnfzig foonf-tsig
Salz zults salt 60 sechzig zex-tsig
Salzkartoffeln zults-kar-toffl boiled potatoes 70 siebzig zeep-tsig
Sauerkirschen zow-er-keershn cherries 80 achtzig uhkht-tsig
Sauerkraut zow-er-krowt sauerkraut 90 neunzig noyn-tsig
Sekt zekt sparkling wine 100 hundert hoondt
Senf zenf mustard 1000 tausend towznt
scharf sharf spicy 1,000,000 eine Million ine-uh mill-yon
Schaschlik shash-lik kebab
Schlagsahne shlahgg-zarn-uh whipped cream Time
Schnittlauch shnit-lowhkh chives one minute eine Minute ine-uh min-oot-uh
Schnitzel shnitzl veal or pork one hour eine ine-uh
cutlet Stunde shtoond-uh
Schweinefleisch shvine-flysh pork half an hour eine halbe Stunde ine-uh hullb-uh
Spargel shpargl asparagus shtoond-uh
Spiegelei shpeegl-eye fried egg Monday Montag mohn-targ
Spinat shpin-art spinach Tuesday Dienstag deens-targ
Tee tay tea Wednesday Mittwoch mitt-vokh
Tomate tom-art-uh tomato Thursday Donnerstag donn-ers-targ
Wassermelone vuss-er-me-lohn-uh watermelon Friday Freitag fry-targ
Wein vine wine Saturday Samstag/ zums-targ
Weintrauben vine-trowbn grapes Sonnabend zonn-ah-bent
Wiener Wrstchen veen-er voorst-shn frankfurter Sunday Sonntag zon-targ
Zander tsan-der pike-perch January Januar yan-ooar
Zitrone tsi-trohn-uh lemon February Februar fay-brooar
Zucker tsook-er sugar March Mrz mairts
Zwieback tsvee-bak rusk April April april
Zwiebel tsveebl onion May Mai my
June Juni yoo-ni
Numbers July Juli yoo-lee
0 null nool August August ow-goost
1 eins eyens September September zep-tem-ber
2 zwei tsvy October Oktober ok-toh-ber
3 drei dry November November no-vem-ber
4 vier feer December Dezember day-tsem-ber
5 fnf foonf spring Frhling froo-ling
6 sechs zex summer Sommer zomm-er
7 sieben zeebn autumn (fall) Herbst hairpst
8 acht uhkht winter Winter vint-er
192
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Adenauerplatz P2 Burgstr. J5 Grunewaldstr. D6 Klopstockstr.
Albrechtstr. J3 Carmerstr. N3 Gustav-Bss-Str. K6 Knesebeckstr.
Alexanderplatz J6 Charlottenstr. K4 Hackescher Markt J5 Kochstr.
Alexanderstr. H3 Chausseestr. F2 Hardenbergplatz N4 Kollwitzstr.
Alt-Moabit J1 Corneliusstr. N6 Hardenbergstr. N4 Kolonnenstr.
Altonaer Str. D3 Danziger Str. H1 Hasenheide H6 Knigin-Elisabeth -Str.
Am Lustgarten K5 Dircksenstr. J5 Hauptstr. E6 Kottbusser Damm
Am Nussbaum K6 Dorotheenstr. K3 Hausvogteiplatz L5 Kottbusser Str.
Am Weidendamm J4 Droysenstr. P1 Hegelplatz K4 Krausenstr.
Am Zeughaus K5 Dudenstr. F6 Heidestr. E2 Kronenstr.
An der Urania P6 Dunckerstr. H1 Heinrich-Heine-Str. H4 Kurfrstendamm
Ansbacher Str. P5 Eberswalder Str. H1 Hofjgerallee M6 Kurfrstenstr.
Augsburger Str. P4 Ebertstr. L3 Hohenstaufenstr. D5 Kurstr.
Axel-Springer-Str. L5 Ernst-Reuter-Platz M3 Holzmarktstr. H4 Landgrafen-str.
Bachstr. M5 Fasanenstr. N4 Inselstr. L6 Leibnizstr.
Bauhofstr. K4 Fischerinsel L6 Invalidenstr. F2 Leipziger Platz
Bayreuther Str. P5 Franklinstr. C3 Jgerstr. L4 Leipziger Str.
Bebelplatz K4 Franzsische Str. K4 Jebensstr. N4 Lennstr.
Behrenstr. K3 Friedrichsgracht L5 Jerusalemer Str. L5 Lessingstr.
Bellevuestr. L2 Friedrichstr. L4 Joachim Taler Platz P4 Lewishamstr.
Bernauer Str. G1 Gendarmenmarkt L4 Joachimstaler Str. P4 Lietzenburger Str.
Beusselstr. C2 Georgenstr. K4 Johannisstr. J4 Lindenstr.
Bismarckstr. M2 Gertraudenstr. L5 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee K1 Luisenstr.
Bleibtreustr. P3 Gervinusstr. P1 Jdenstr. K6 Lneburger Str.
Blcher Str. G5 Geschwister-Scholl-Str. J4 Kaiserdamm A4 Ltzowplatz
Bodestr. K5 Gitschiner Str. G5 Kaiser-Friedrich-Str. B4 Ltzowufer
Breite Str. K5 Glinkastr. L4 Kantstr. N3 Lychener Str.
Breitscheid Platz N5 Gneisenaustr. G6 Karl-August-Platz N2 Marburger Str.
Brckenstr. H4 Goebenstr. E5 Karl-Liebknecht-Str. K5 Marchstr.
Brderstr. L5 Goethestr. N2 Karl-Marx-Allee H3 Markgrafenstr.
Brunnen Str. G1 Gontardstr. J6 Keithstr. P6 Martin-Luther-Str.
Budapester Str. N5 Grolmanstr. N3 Kemperplatz L2 Matthikirchstr.
Blowstr. E5 Groe Hamburger Str. J5 Kirchstr. K3 Mauerstr.
Bundesallee C6 Groe Prsidentenstr. J5 Kleiner Stern K1 Mehringdamm
P6 Messedamm A4 Pestalozzistr. N2 Spreeufer K5
N6 Mittelstr. K4 Planckstr. J4 Spreeweg E3
M5 Mohrenstr. L4 Platz der Republik K2 Stargarder Str. H1
N3 Molkenmarkt K6 Platz des 18. Mrz 1848 K2 Steinplatz N3
F4 Mollstr. H3 Poststr. K6 Stralauer Str. K6
H2 Mommsenstr. P3 Potsdamer Str. L2 Strae des 17. Juni K2
E6 Monbijouplatz J5 Prenzlauer Allee H2 Straentunnel J2
A3 Mhlendamm K6 Propststr. K6 Stresemannstr. F5
H6 Mllerstr. E1 Putlitzstr. D2 Stromstr. D2
H5 Mnzstr. J6 Rankestr. P4 Stlerstr. N6
L4 Museumstr. K5 Rathausstr. K6 Taubenstr. L4
L4 Nachodstr. D5 Rauchstr. N6 Tauentzienstr. P5
P4 Neue Jakobstr. L6 Reichstagsufer K3 Tegeler Weg B2
P6 Neue Promenade J5 Reinhardtstr. J3 Tiergartenstr. L1
K5 Neue Rostr. L6 Rochstr. J5 Torstr. G2
P6 Neumannsgasse K5 Roscherstr. P1 Uhlandstr. N4
N2 Neustdtische K3 Rosenthaler Str. J5 Universittsstr. K4
L3 Niebuhrstr. P2 Savignyplatz N3 Unter den Linden K3
L3 Niederlagstr. K5 Schadowstr. K3 Unterwasserstr. K5
L2 Niederwallstr. L5 Scheidemannstr. K2 Urbanstr. G5
D3 Nollendorfplatz E5 Schiffbauerdamm J2 Voss Str. L3
P1 Nrnberger Str. P5 Schillerstr. M3 Wallstr. L6
P5 Oberwallstr. K5 Schillstr. P6 Waltzstr. P1
G5 Oberwasserstr. L5 Schloplatz K5 Werderscher Markt K5
J3 Oderberger Str. G1 Schlostr. B3 Werderstr. K5
J1 Olaf-Palme-Platz N5 Schlterstr. P3 Werftstr. J1
N6 Oranienburger Str. J5 Schnhauser Allee H1 Wichmannstr. N6
N6 Oranienstr. G4 Schumannstr. J3 Wielandstr. P2
H1 Otto-Braun-Str. H3 Seestr. D1 Wilhelmstr. K3
P5 Otto-Suhr-Allee M3 Sellerstr. E1 Willy-Brandt-Str. J2
M3 Pallasstr. E5 Seydelstr. L5 Wilmersdorfer Str. P2
L4 Pariser Platz K3 Skalitzer Str. H5 Wittenbergplatz P5
D6 Parochialstr. K6 Sophie-Charlotten-Str. A3 Yitzhak-Rabin-Strasse K2
L2 Passauer Str. P5 Spandauer Damm A3 Yorckstr. F6
L3 Paul-Lbe-Str. K2 Spandauer Str. K6 Ziegelstr. J4
F6 Paulstr. E3 Spittelmarkt L5
S25
Heiligensee Frohnau
Berlin U-Bahn & S-Bahn Schulzendorf (b. Tegel)

Herms
Waidm
Tegel
Alt-Tegel U6 Rathaus Rein
Borsigwerke Eichborndamm Karl-Bonhoeffer-Nervenkli
Holzhauser Str.
Lindauer Allee
C Otisstrasse Paracelsus-Bad
Scharnweberstr. Residenzstr.
c 128 Franz-Neumann-Platz
Kurt-Schumacher-Platz
Altstadt Spandau Haselhorst
Paulsternstr.
Zitadelle Flughafen Afrikanische Str.
U7 Rathaus Spandau Rohrdamm Berlin-Tegel
kc X9,109,128 Rehberge
Siemensdamm TXL Nauener Platz
Seestrasse
Halemweg
w
Leopoldplatz P
Jakob-Kaiser-Platz
c Beusselstrasse Amrumer Strasse
B X9,109 S4
Jungfernheide S41 S42 Westhafen Wedding

c TXL
c X9
Reinickendorfer
U2 Birkenstrasse Strasse N
Ruhleben
Schwartzkopffstrasse
Mierendorffplatz c TXL Oran
berg S41 S42 Turmstrasse Zinnowitzer Strasse

Olympia
Stadion Westend
(Ost)
Richard-Wagner-Platz Oranienburger Tor
Hansaplatz
Neu-Westend Tiergarten Bellevue Lehrter Bahnhof
mpia
dion ZOB Sophie- Deutsche Ernst-
Kaiserdamm Charlotte-Platz Oper Reuter-Pl.
Theodor- Bismarckstr.
Heuss- Messe Nord Friedrichstrasse
Platz
c X9, 109
A Zoologischer Garten Unter den Linden
Savigny-
rasse platz c TXL Franz
Potsdamer Platz
Wilmersdorfer Nollendorf- Mendelssohn- Mo

Strasse c 109 Wittenberg- platz Bartholdy-Park Anhalter
Kurfrsten- platz U3 U4 Bahnhof
Charlotten- damm Kurfrstenstr.
burg U1
Uhlandstrasse Gleis-
S3 dreieck M
Augsburger Blowstr.
Strasse
Messe c 109 Hohenzollernplatz Spichernstrasse Viktoria- Yorckstr.

Luise-Platz
Sd Adenauerplatz Yorckstr.
Fehrbelliner Gntzelstrasse
Konstanzer Strasse Bayerischer
Platz Platz
Westkreuz S5 M
Berliner Eisenacher Kleistpark
Blissestrasse Strasse Str.
Halensee
Rathaus
Schneberg
Hohenzollern-
damm
Heidelberger Platz Bundesplatz Schneberg Papestr.
Grunewald Rdesheimer Platz U4

Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz
Innsbrucker Friedenau
Platz
Breitenbachplatz
Walther-Schreiber-Platz K
Feuerbachstrasse
Podbielskiallee
Schlossstrasse
Dahlem-Dorf U9 Rathaus Priesterweg

Steglitz
Marienfe
Thielplatz
Botanischer Garten
Sdende
Bu
Oskar-Helene-Heim
Nikolassee Lankwitz
Onkel Toms Htte Lichterfelde West

Babelsberg S1 Lichterfelde Ost
Wannsee
Krumme Lanke U3
Osdorfer Strasse
S7 Griebnitzsee
S1 Sundgauer Strasse S25 Lichterfelde Sd
am Drewitz S26
bahnhof Schlachtensee Mexikoplatz Zehlendorf
S1 S26 S2
sdorf
KEY
annslust
U8 Wittenau
Blankenburg S-Bahn & U-Bahn line
with interchange
nickendorf
Wilhelmsruh
Railway line
inik Pankow-
Alt-Reinicken-
Schnholz Heinersdorf
Train station
e dorf Pankow k Airport
U2
Wollankstr. c Airport bus
Bus line serving the airport
c 128
U9 Osloer Str. Vinetastr.
Bornholmer Str.
ankstrasse
45 S46 S47 Schnhauser Allee
S75 Wartenberg
Gesundbrunnen S41 S42
Humboldthain S8
Prenzlauer Allee
Nordbahnhof Eberswalder Str.
Voltastr. Hohenschnhausen
nienburger Senefelderplatz
Strasse Bernauer Str. S7
Greifswalder Str.
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz Raoul Wallenberg Str.
Rosenthaler Platz
Gehrenseestr.
Weinmeisterstr.
Alexanderplatz
Hackescher Markt U5 Strausberger Landsberger Allee
Platz Marzah
Schillingstr.
Poelchaust
Weberwiese
Jannowitz-
brcke Storkower Str. Springpfuhl
Klosterstr. Frankfurter Tor
Mrkisches Museum Ostbahnhof

S3 Samariterstr.
Spittelmarkt
Frankfurter Allee
sische Str. Hausvogteipl. Heinrich- U
Heine-Str. Warschauer
Str. Cottbusser
ohrenstr. Stadtmitte U1 Platz
Magdalenenstr.
Neue
Moritzplatz Grottkauer Str.
Kochstr. Grlitzer
Bahnhof
Prinzenstrasse
Lichtenberg Kaulsdorf-
Mckern- Hallesches Kottbusser Ostkreuz Nord
brcke Tor Tor Schlesisches
Tor
Nld- Friedrichsfelde Biesdorf Wuhlet
nerplatz Ost S5
Schnleinstr.
Elsterwerda
Friedrichsfelde Platz
Biesdorf-Sd
Gneisenaustr. Sdstern Tierpark
Mehringdamm Hermannplatz
Karlshorst
Treptower Park
Platz der Boddinstr.
Luftbrcke Wuhlheid
Rathaus Neuklln Rummelsburg Betriebsbhf.
k Plnterwald
Rummelsburg
Paradestr. Flughafen Kpenick
Leinestr. Karl-Marx-Strasse
Berlin-
Tempelhof Sonnenallee
Hirschgarten
Tempelhof Baumschulenweg
S3
Hermannstrasse Neuklln Kllnische Heide
U8
Alt-Tempelhof S41 Grenzallee
S42
Kaiserin-Augusta-Strasse Blaschkoallee
Parchimer Allee Ober-

Ullsteinstrasse spree Spindlersfeld
Schneweide
S47
Britz-Sd
Westphalweg
elde Johannisthaler Chaussee
U6 Alt-Mariendorf Lipschitzallee
uckower Chaussee
Betriebsbahnhof
Wutzkyallee Schneweide
Schichauweg
Zwickauer Damm
Adlershof
Lichtenrade Rudow U7
Grnau
c 171 Eichwalde
Altglienicke S45 Zeuthen
Mahlow Grnbergallee S9 Wildau
Flughafen Berlin-Schnefeld Knigs-
S8
S2 Blankenfelde (Kr. Teltow-Fming) c 171 k S46
Wusterhaus
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
BERLIN
Whether you are travelling first class or on a limited
budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight
to the very best Berlin has to offer.
Dozens of Top 10 lists from the Top 10 most exciting

new buildings to the Top 10 festivals, pubs, museums,
hotels and markets provide the insider knowledge every
visitor needs. And to save you time and money there are
tips on where to find bargains and accomodation thats
right for you.
Find your way effortlessly using the detailed maps which

fold out from the front and back covers, plus many
smaller maps inside.
Voted Best Guide Book by Guardian and

Observer readers
Discover more at 6.99

www.dk.com Printed in Italy
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Top 10 Berlin (DK Eyewitness) 2005 PDF

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Tiergarten & Fede

Left Altes Museum Right Street artists on Breitscheidplatz

Steglitz Kpenick Groer

eral District pp96101 ST R ASS

STR ASSE STR.

FRAN ZSI SCHE

euzberg & Schneberg pp102109

KNE SEB ECK

UHL AND STR.

Funkturm PLATZ Erotik-Museum

KNE SEBE CKS

JOA CHIM STA

v Tram stop Platz

LUIS ENS TRA

u Turmstr. T UR MSTR ASS E

FRIE DRI CHS TR.

owskybrcke Lessingbrcke Spr ee Carl-von- AL T- M E

FRIE DRI CHS

AL Englischer JOH Unter

SP STR ASS E DES

S 17. JUN I Siegessule Denkmal fr

. JUN I Juden Europas

Garten Deutscher D ST Berlin Platz

E R ST LUTZOW- Bendlerbrcke SC H N EBE R G E R U F E R Staatsbibliothek

See Kurfrstendamm map on Back flap

NTZ ELSTR ASSE

GR UN RGST RASSE BERG

1500 - ST R A SSE DUDENSTRASSE

F E Zionskirche Jdischer Synagoge A R IE N

Platz St.-Marien- IED

s Synagoge v Hackesche str.

DEN LIN DEN SCHLOSS-

che Forum RS Ephraim-

Friedrichs- N.D. Kirchhof

Left Berlin Reichstag Right A caf in the Hackesche Hfe

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Famous Berliners 50 Tiergarten &

Bars & Lounges 54 Kreuzberg &

Around Town Streetsmart

and theatres, entertainment and nightlife are The Brandenburger Tor,

a more potent symbol

Visitors are attracted

tic views across the

Unter den Linden Potsdamer

Multi-lingual tourist information: www.berlin.de 7

Tourist information, Hotel Adlon Berlin

Haus Liebermann American

For more on historical architecture in Berlin see pp389 9

Wallot as the proud manifestation of the power of building and a touch of

Platz der Republik

Berlin governmental buildings see pp401 11

For more on Unter den Linden see pp11221 13

Deutsches Historisches Museum

14 For more on Berlin museums see pp467

Deutsches Historisches Museum: www.dhm.de 15

For more on the Filmmuseum see pp189 17

Exhibitions in the Filmmuseum