Different Types of Denim Fabric: Cotton Serge Raw Denim

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Different Types of Denim Fabric

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By Shelley Moore, eHow Contributing Writer
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Denim clothing never goes out of style. It's attractive and durable, perfect for most
casual occasions. Denim is most common as the fabric in jeans, but is also used for
shirts, jackets, skirts, dresses, hats, handbags and more. Several different types of
denim fabric are available depending on the function and look people are after.

Cotton Serge
1. The traditional denim is 100 percent cotton serge. Additionally, denim is
often blended with other fabrics.
Raw Denim
2. Raw denim is dark, unwashed fabric that is stiff and very durable. It fades
with wear in certain areas, creating a natural distressed look. It also fades
with washing.
Selvage Denim
3. The premium type of raw denim fabric is selvage denim, with tight weaving
and natural edges that will not unravel. Selvage denim is more expensive
than other raw denim.
Stretch Denim
4. The blend closest to pure denim is called stretch denim, which usually
includes 2 or 3 percent Spandex material for a bit of give in the fabric.
Poly-Denim
5. Poly-denim blends look like a dressier denim, and are more lightweight, which
makes them more convenient to wash and dry. They also are more resistant
to wrinkling.
Ramie-Denim
6. Denim is also sometimes blended with the plant fiber ramie, which reduces
wrinkling and gives the fabric a softer feel.
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Information About Cotton Fabric

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By Margaret Montet, eHow Contributing Writer
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Information About Cotton Fabric

Cotton fabric has been used for clothing as far back as 3000 B.C. It remains a
popular fabric today because it can be made into different weights and types of
fabric: batiste, jersey, flannel, terry, corduroy, twill, denim and duck.

History
1.
A cotton gin
The processing of cotton was streamlined in 1793 with Eli Whitney's cotton gin. This
machine separates the cotton from the seed. In 1884, the power loom improved the
manufacture of cotton fabric.
Geography

2.
Cotton plant
The cotton plant thrives in warm climates such as those in the southern United
States, China, India, Brazil and Egypt.
Features
3. Cotton grows in a round boll around the seeds of the cotton plant. The plant
is thorny, which made picking painful for the picker until machines for this
were developed in the 1930s.
Types
4. Cotton is graded on three things: color or degree of whiteness, amount of
foreign or plant matter in the cotton, and preparation of the fiber done by the
gin.
Expert Insight

5.
Bolts of cotton fabric
Staple is the length of the fiber in cottom. Egyptian cotton is known for its long
staple and is used for finer types of fabrics. Extra-long staple cotton is also used for
thread.

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Chanel
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses, see Chanel (disambiguation).

This article may contain wording that merely promotes


the subject without imparting verifiable information.
Please remove or replace such wording, unless you can
cite independent sources that support the characterization.

Chanel

Type Privately held

Industry fashion

Founded 1909 / 1910

Founder(s) Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Headquart Paris, France

ers
135 Avenue Charles de Gaulle

92521 Neuilly-sur-Seine Cedex

Area Worldwide

served

Key people Alain Wertheimer, co-owner

Gerard Wertheimer, co-owner

Karl Lagerfeld, head designer


Products haute couture, Perfume,Jewellery, Fashion

accessory

Website www.chanel.com

Chanel S.A., commonly known as "Chanel" ' (English pronunciation: /ʃəˈnɛl/), is a Parisian fashion
house founded by the late couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, recognized as one of the most
established in haute couture, specializing in luxury goods (haute couture, ready-to-wear,
handbags, perfumery, and cosmetics among others).[1] According to Forbes, the privately
held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the
great-grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer.

The company has had many high-profile celebrities as spokesmodels, including Catherine
Deneuve (1970s Chanel No. 5 spokesmodel),Nicole Kidman (early 2000s Chanel No. 5
spokesmodel), Audrey Tautou (current Chanel No.5 spokesmodel), Keira Knightley (current
spokesmodel for Coco Mademoiselle), and most famously, Marilyn Monroe (1950s Chanel No.
5 spokesmodel) pictured splashing herself with a compartment of Chanel No. 5. The image is
certainly the most famous of all Chanel advertisements, and continues to be one of the most
popular advertisement photos in the history of marketing, used in countless biographies, and
still selling in large quantities as a poster and art piece using Marilyn Monroe as the model.
Marilyn Monroe brought this perfume to fame.[2]
Chanel Wedding Dress from the Fall-Winter 2007/8 Haute Couture Collection

Contents
[hide]

• 1 History
o 1.1 The Coco Chanel era
 1.1.1 Establishment and recognition:
1909 through 1920s
 1.1.2 Parfums Chanel: the late 1920s
 1.1.3 Chanel and Nazi affiliation: 1930s
through 1950s
 1.1.4 Chanel's comeback: 1950s through
1970s
 1.1.5 Chanel No. 5: How to Reinvigorate
a Flagging Icon
o 1.2 Post-Coco through today
 1.2.1 The coming of Lagerfeld
 1.2.2 In the 1990s
 1.2.3 2000 through today
• 2 Influence on fashion and popularity
o 2.1 Chanel logo and counterfeiting
• 3 Early trademark registration
• 4 Chanel locations
• 5 Perfumes
• 6 Watches
• 7 Marketing filmography
o 7.1 Chanel No. 5
o 7.2 Coco Mademoiselle
• 8 References

• 9 External links

[edit]History

[edit]The Coco Chanel era


See also: Coco Chanel

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going
"back to basics", incorporating elegance, class, and originality. [citation needed] Under her tight reign
from 1909–1971, Coco Chanel held the title as 'Chief Designer' until her death on January 10,
1971.

[edit]Establishment and recognition: 1909 through 1920s

In 1909, Gabrielle Chanel opened a shop on the ground floor of Balsan's apartment in Paris -
the beginnings of what would later become one of the greatest fashion empires in the world.
[1]
The Balsan home was a meeting place of the hunting elite of France and the gentlemen
brought their fashionable mistresses along, giving Coco the opportunity to sell the women
decorated hats. During this time Coco Chanel struck up a relationship with Arthur 'Boy' Capel, a
member of the Balsan men's group.

He saw a businesswoman in Coco and helped her acquire her location at 31 Rue Cambon in
Paris by 1910.[1] There was already a couture shop in the building, and so Coco was not allowed
in her lease to produce couture dresses.[1] In 1913, Chanel introduced women's sportswear at
her new boutique in Deauville and Biarritz, France. She detested the fashions of women who
came to these resort towns.[1] Chanel's designs tended to be simple rather than opulent in look
(common haute couture fashion of the Belle Époque).[3] World War I affected fashion. Coal was
scarce and women were doing the factory jobs that men had held prior to the war; they needed
warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions. Chanel fossella's designs from this era
were affected by the new idea of women's sports. During World War I, Coco opened another
larger shop on Rue Cambon in front of the Hôtel Ritz Paris.[1]Here she sold flannel blazers,
straight linen skirts, sailor tops, long jersey sweaters and skirt-jackets.With her financial situation
precarious in the early years of her design career, Chanel purchased jersey primarily for its low
cost. The fabric draped well and suited Chanel's designs, which were simple, practical, and
often inspired by men's wear, especially the uniforms prevalent when World War I broke out in
1914. [1] Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for its simplicity. In the years
1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar mentioned that Chanel's name was "on the list of every
buyer."[1] Her boutique at 31 Rue Cambon previewed simple day dress-and-coat ensembles and
black evening dresses in lace or jet-embroidered tulle (she also piled cushions of feathers, fur
and metallic fabrics on the sofas in the gray and amber salons).[1]

Coco Chanel established her reputation as a meticulous fashion couturier.[1] Following the
fashion trends of the 1920s, Chanel produced beaded dresses.[1] The suit in two or three pieces
created in 1920 remains a modern fashion look. The suit was advocated as the "new uniform for
afternoon and evening as far back as 1915." 1921 saw the introduction of her first
perfume Chanel No. 5.[1] Earnest Beaux created the fragrance for Coco and she named it after
her lucky number 5.[1] The fragrance was a success. The signature scent was a result of her
belief in superstitions. She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth
month.[4] Coco informed Harper's Bazaar, "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance", in
1923.[1]

[edit]Parfums Chanel: the late 1920s


Chanel No.5 introduced in 1921 - the glass cap closure is inspired by an antique mirror in Coco's apartment.

Parfums Chanel[5] was founded in 1924 by Pierre Wertheimer to produce and sell perfumes
and beauty products.[5] Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department
store Galeries Lafayette) introduced Coco to Wertheimer.[5] Wertheimer retained 70% of
Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%.[5] Coco was forced to
operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel.[5] In 1924, Coco also introduced her
first costume jewelry which were a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white.[1] Along with the
success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal
legend."[1] A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster.[1] She introduced her
signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ‘little black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by
visits to Scotland. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the Louvre.[5]

As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco
and Pierre were sour.[5] She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she
deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her
talents for their own personal gain.[5] Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her
venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman.[5]

Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the
Wertheimers.[5] but this failed.

[edit]Chanel and Nazi affiliation: 1930s through 1950s

Evening couture dresses from Chanel evolved into an elongated feminine style.[1] Summer
dresses had contrasting scintillating touches (e.g. rhinestonestraps and silver eyelets).[1] Coco
designed a line for petite women in 1937.[1] Throughout the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli was
competing more strongly with the House of Chanel, but this was only a short term rivalry.
Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the
pieces, including the "Comet" and "Fountain" necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.
When World War II began in 1939, Coco Chanel retired and moved into the Hôtel Ritz Paris with
her new beau, Nazi officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage.[1][3][5] Only her parfums and accessories
were sold in her existing boutiques.

When France fell under the control of Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany in 1940, the Nazis made the
opulent and exclusive Hotel Meurice (Le Meurice), located on the Rue du Rivoli opposite the
Louvre, their French headquarters. It was coincidentally and uncomfortably close (just right
around the corner) from Chanel's Rue Cambon location.[1] Pierre Wertheimer and his family fled
to the United States in 1940, and before Coco could take control of Parfums Chanel,
Wertheimer made an "Aryan proxy" for the company.[5] Rumors spread that Coco was on good
terms with the Germans.[1] Chanel biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux states that German
intelligence sent her to "visit Winston Churchill as a part of a secret peace mission. Coco
Chanel was arrested immediately after the liberation of France and charged with abetting the
Germans, but Churchill intervened on her behalf and she was released."[5] When France was
liberated after the fall of the Nazi Empire, many French people meted out severe punishments
to French women who were believed to have collaborated with the Nazis. They were called in
French "collaborateurs horizontales" or in English: "on their backs collaborators" perhaps putting
too fine a point upon it. Coco Chanel became a target and a subject of such rumors, and she
fled to Switzerland for the period immediately following the war.[1][5]

In Coco's absence, Jordan Fahey returned to Vermont to control Fahey's family holdings.[5] Out
of spite, Coco created her own collection of perfumes. Wertheimer felt his legal rights were
infringed, but he wanted to avoid a legal battle and settled with Coco by giving her $400,000
USD, 2% royalty from all Chanel products, and gave her limited rights to sell her own perfumes
in Switzerland.[5] Coco stopped making perfumes after the agreement. She sold the complete
rights to her name to the Wertheimers for Perfumes Chanel, in exchange for a monthly stipend.
The stipend supported her and her friend, von Dincklage.[5]

[edit]Chanel's comeback: 1950s through 1970s


This section is written like an advertisement. Please
help rewrite this section from a neutral point of view. (June 2010)

Chanel returned to Paris in 1953[1] to find her pre-eminent position in the Paris fashion demi-
monde occupied to distraction with Christian DiorChristian Dior and the look for which he alone
is given credit, the "New Look." Dior's "New Look" was perhaps the single most significant
departure between styles seen in the whole of the 20th century; perhaps a fitting rupture
considering it occurred as it did at the end of the Second World War in the late 1940s. Coco
Chanel responded brilliantly to the challenge; she recognized that the couture market had
changed and she needed to catch-up.[1] Becoming competitive again would necessarily come at
a great price; Chanel needed to be a significant presence in: haute couture, pret-a-porter,
costume jewelry and fragrance. Coco swallowed her pride and re-approached Pierre for
business advice and financial backing.[5] In return, he negotiated for himself complete rights to
all products bearing the brand: "Chanel." [5] But their re-kindled collaboration paid off
handsomely as Chanel, with her unerring sense of style became the single, most prestigious
label in all of fashion again.[5] Importantly for the brand and starting in 1953, Coco collaborated
with jeweler Robert Goossens to design a line of Chanel jewelry which exquisitely complimented
her iconic fashion designs. For example, she paired her re-launched signature "Chanel Suit"
(comprised of a knitted wool cardigan with a matching skirt) with long strings of black and white
pearls, setting off the suit wonderfully while at the same time adding to it a degree of femininity,
thus lightening a sometimes severe look."[3] She also introduced the Chanel gold or metallic
chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line,
2/55, thus became the internal "appellation" for the quilted bag line. It is still known throughout
the world as the "2/55" bag and it, just like the "Chanel Suit" has never really ever fallen out of
fashion. Like nearly all of Coco Chanel's designs, they possess a remarkable evergreen quality,
a quality perhaps singularly unique in all of fashiondom.[1] Throughout the fifties, her taste
continued its unerring path to success, even as she turned to new areas of conquest. Her first
venture into men's fragrance became yet another enduring success, Chanel's eau de toilette for
men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name: "A Gentleman's Cologne")
became, endured and remains even today the number one selling men's fragrance, not bad for
a first stab into a new market. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at
the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre bought Bader's 20% share of the perfume business,
giving his family 90%.[5] Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimertook his father's place in 1965.
[5]
Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a
businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of expoitation."[5] He told Forbes, "Pierre
returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English
Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him.
She resented him, you see, all her life."[5]

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on January 10, 1971 at the age of 87.[1] She was still "designing,
still working" at the time of her death.[1] For example, she designed the uniforms forOlympic
Airways flight attendants (1966–1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then
one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnateAristotle Onassis.
After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean
Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge.[1] The House continued average success, and Jacques
Wetheimer bought the entire House of Chanel.[1][5] Critics stated that during his leadership, he
never paid much attention to the company as he was more interested in horse breeding.[5] In
1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco
Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porterline and worldwide
distribution of accessories.

[edit]Chanel No. 5: How to Reinvigorate a Flagging Icon

Alain Wertheimer, Jacque's son, took over in 1974.[1][5] Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen
as a passe perfume.[5] Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets
carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves,
and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater
sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the
fragrance increased.[5] Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he
persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.

[edit]Post-Coco through today


[edit]The coming of Lagerfeld

In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus. In 1983, Lagerfeld took over
as chief designer for Chanel.[5] He changed Chanel's fashion lines from the old lines to shorter
cuts and eye capturing designs. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques were opened
up worldwide.[5] By the end of the 1980s, these boutiques sold goods ranging from US$200-per-
ounce perfume, US$225 ballerina slippers to US$11,000 dresses and US$2,000 leather
handbags.[5] Rights to Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were held by Chanel only and not
shared with other beauty producers and distributors.[5] As Lagerfeld took charge as chief
designer, other designers and marketers for Chanel worked on keeping the classic Chanel look
to maintain the Chanel legend.[5] Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained, "We introduce a new
fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the
consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all
ages, as they enter and leave the market."[5] The launch of a new fragrance in honor of the late
Coco Chanel, Coco, in 1984 maintained success in the perfumery business with Chanel.[5] In
1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch
made its debut. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to New York City.[5]

[edit]In the 1990s

Chanel's boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, California.


The company earned the place as a global leader in fragrance maker and marketing in the
1990s.[5] Heavy marketing investment increased revenue.[5] The success of the Maison de
Chanel brought the Wertheimer family fortune to $5 billion USD.[5] Product lines such as
watches (retailing for as much as $7,000 USD), shoes, high-end clothes, cosmetics and
accessories were expanded.[5] Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel
recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion.[5] 1990 saw the launch of ĹŹ. As
the business trend was going about (buying up other fashion companies), Chanel—like Moët-
Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, Gucciand Prada -- bought up numerous companies.[5] The House
acquired Les Broderies Lemarié (a feather and flower craftshouse which provided embroidery
for the haute couture industry),, A. Michael et Cie, and Lesage.[5] Chanel was also rumored to
also buy the companyMassaro.[5]

By 1996, Chanel bought gunmaker Holland & Holland. It attempted to revamp the guns maker
but did not succeed.[5] 1996 also greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense
popularity, a men's version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998. Better success came with the
purchase of Eres (a swimwear label). The House of Chanel launched its first skin care
line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under
a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.

[edit]2000 through today

While Alain Wertheimer remained chairman of Chanel, CEO and President Françoise Montenay
was to bring Chanel into the 21st century.[5] 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by
Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean cuts and fusion of masculine and feminine elements
formed a revolutionary watch, and a supposed cult-following in certain circles. In 2001,Bell &
Ross was purchased (a watchmaker). The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections
of accessories were opened in the United States.[5]
A Chanel boutique in Prince's Building, Central, Hong Kong.

2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of
Chanel also founded theParaffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for
ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroidery, Massaro for
shoemaking, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was
designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December. In July 2002, a
jewelry and watch flagship store was opened on the upscale Madison Avenue.[5] Within months,
a 1,000sqft shoes and handbags boutique was opened next door to the Jewelry and watches
flagship.[5] Also in 2002, a rumor suggesting that Chanel was considering a merger with
the luxury goods Parisian fashion company Hermès circulated.[5] Although, such a merger would
have produced one of the largest fashion companies in the world, and rival the likes of Moët-
Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, it was never consummated. Despite merger rumors, Chanel
continued to expand in the United States and by December 2002, it operated 25 U.S. boutiques.
[5]
Also, Chanel said it would like to open more boutiques in more U.S. cities such as Atlanta and
Seattle.

In order to please the younger followers, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an "In-
Between Wear" in 2003. That same year saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute
couture that the company founded a second shop on rue Cambon. Continuing an influence in
the Asian market, the House of Chanel opened a new 2,400 Square feet boutique inHong
Kong and paid nearly $50 million USD for a building in the classy and upscale shopping district
of Ginza in Tokyo,Japan.[1]
[edit]Influence on fashion and popularity
This section is written like an advertisement. Please
help rewrite this section from a neutral point of view. (June 2010)

Chanel Headquarters, Place Vendôme, Paris.

Coco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted
silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses[citation needed]. The years of the
1920s and 1930s will best be remembered as the era of Coco whose simpler lines of women's
couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s.[3][6] Her clothing was relaxed and
changed the way women dressed for outdoor leisure. Coco omitted corsets, liberating women
and creating more comfort.[3] Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in
clothes for a lifestyle."[3]Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for
undegarments) a new fashion fabric.[3] Her jersey dresses in navy and gray were cut to flatter
the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape.[3]These dresses were
highly popular with wealthy women, and so she extended her range with them being
manufactored by Rodier.[3] Chanel also incorporated ideas from male wardrobe into her designs.
[3]

She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry, including the ever
popular Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of
woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces.[1]
[3]
The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain. Wealthy women around the world began
to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her.[1] The House of
Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name "Chanel" became synonymous
with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class.[1][5] After the
phenomenal success[1][3][5] of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even
more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. The
financial gain from the fragrance also helped her company during difficult years.[3]

Overall, Chanel has touched many American and European fashion designers for her
pioneering search for originality and simple perfection.[3] They "continue to re-inforce her
concept of uncomplicated classics that inspire many contemporary designers' ready-to-wear
collections -- an homage to Chanel's essential modernist styling and her legacy to the world of
fashion.[3]

Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern
sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys. This
material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006
featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, was one of the most desired bags of the
moment. Chanel still is popular because it mixes the trends of today with the class and simplicity
it had when it first opened. The brand is currently headed by Brazilian designer Laurence
Roberge Bernardo, and Italian Kayla Paulini who also design for the House of Fendi, as well as
their namesake label.

[edit]Chanel logo and counterfeiting


The signature Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C (one facing forwards the other facing
backwards.) Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with. The logo was given to
her by the Chateau de Cremat in Nice. The logotype was not trademarked until the opening of
the first Chanel stores.[citation needed]

Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods,
especially counterfeit handbags and they have stated that it is a top priority of theirs to stop the
sale of counterfeit products.[7]. Countries said to be producing great numbers of counterfeit
Chanel handbags are Vietnam and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around
$2,850 USD, while a counterfeit usually costs around $100 USD, creating a demand for the
signature style at a cheaper price. All authentic Chanel handbags are serialized, beginning in
the 1990s.

[edit]Early trademark registration

The word Chanel logo is a registered trademark

The Chanel No. 5 logo is a registered trademark

One timeline measurement for Chanel presence in the United States is via trademark registered
with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). On Tuesday, November 18,
1924, Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York filed two trademark applications. One was for the
typeset mark Chanel. The second application was for the distinctive interlocking CC design plus
word mark.

At this time both Chanel marks were filed for only their perfume, toiletry and cosmetic products
in the primary class of common metals and their alloys. Chanel provided the description of face
powder, perfume, eau de cologne, toilet water, lip stick, and rouge, to the USPTO.

Both the Chanel and CC trademarks were awarded on the same date of February 24, 1925 with
respective Serial Numbers of 71205468 and 71205469. Their status is registered and renewed
and owned by Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York.

The earliest trademark application for the inaugural No. 5 perfume is on Thursday, April 1, 1926.
Application was filed by Chanel, Inc. and described to the USPTO as perfume and toilet water.
First use and commercial use is stated as January 1, 1921. Registration was granted on July
20, 1926 with Serial Number 71229497. No. 5's status is registered, renewed, and owned by
Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York.

[edit]Chanel locations
Chanel operates over 200 Chanel boutiques worldwide.[5] The locations are found in upscale
shopping districts, upscale department stores and malls, and inside major airports.[5] The
Chanel flagship store in Ginza on the corner of 3-5-3 Ginza Chuo-ku, Tokyo - 104-0061, and the
other three surrounding corners are the home of the Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and Cartierflagship
stores.[8]

[edit]Perfumes

Parfums Chanel was formed in the mid 1920's after the houses' introduction of its iconic No. 5 in
1921. Chanel's perfumes brings a significant percent of profit for the company, more than its
sales in other products combined [9]

Since it inception Parfums Chanel has had 3 in-house perfumer:

 Ernest Beaux employed 1920-1961


 Henri Robert employed 1958-1987
 Jacque Polge employed 1978–present

[edit]Watches

Creative Director at Chanel, Jacques Helleu followed Coco Chanel's credo, having designed the
first Chanel watch named 'Premiere' in 1987. The first model of the Chanel J12 watches line
was introduced in 2000

In 2005, Chanel designers introduced the J12 line into the area of Fine Jewelry timepieces -
they developed the jewelry watch that was equipped with the tourbillion. Chanel asked
experienced Swiss watchmakers to develop the exclusive 'CHANEL O5-T.1' movement.
In 2006, the line was joined by Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with 597 baguette-cut diamonds,
followed by the creation of the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie. In 2007, Chanel launched
its first J12 GMT model.

In 2008, Chanel initiated the partnership with Audemars Piguet, having developed the 'J12
calibre 3125', equipped with an innovative automatic movement - CHANEL AP - 3125, the
fusion of the AP 3120 movement and Chanel 'J12' ceramic.[10]

[edit]Marketing filmography
[edit]Chanel No. 5
Main article: Chanel No. 5

Chanel launched a new advertising film that cast Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No.
5. It was produced by Baz Luhrmann, the director of Moulin Rouge and Romeo+Juliet, and was
shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world
while Brazilian model/actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer in love with Kidman. The
commercial lasts three minutes, and reportedly took many months of pre- and post-production.
It cost about €26 million ($46 million), making No. 5 The Film one of the most expensive
advertisements in history.[11].

Audrey Tautou, French actress and star of the film The Da Vinci Code (2006), replaced Kidman
as spokesmodel for the No. 5 fragrance.[2] Tautou became a spokesmodel for the perfume in
2009 when she appeared in the second short film for the fragrance. The short film was veiled on
the 5th of May (5th of the 5th - in honour of No.5) on the Chanel website, 88 years to the day
the fragrance was introduced. The short film was directed by French director Jean-Pierre
Jeunet and was released in conjunction with Tautou's film Coco avant Chanel, in which Tautou
portrays Coco Chanel. Coco chanel was one of the highest fashion industry.

[edit]Coco Mademoiselle
Main article: Coco Mademoiselle

British actress Keira Knightley, current model of the Coco Mademoiselle fragrance, starred as
the young Coco Chanel in a short advertisement film for the fragrance directed by
theEnglish film director Joe Wright.

[edit]References

1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak "Chanel". Fashion Model


Directory. Retrieved 2008-06-19.
2. ^ a b Beauty - Life & Style Home - theage.com.au
3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Martin, Richard (1995). Contemporary fashion. London: St. James
Press. pp. 750. ISBN 1-55862-173-3.
4. ^ "BUSINESS ABROAD: King of Perfume". Time. September 14, 1953. Retrieved April
28, 2010.
5. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay a
z ba bb bc bd
"Chanel S.A.". Funding Universe. Retrieved 2008-06-19.
6. ^ Costume", pg.52, published by Eyewitness Books.
7. ^ "ChanelReplica.com". Chanel Inc.. Retrieved 2009-05-08.
8. ^ Chanel Flagship store in Ginza Tokyo, Japan
9. ^ Burr, Chandler (2008). The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris
and New York. Henry Holt and Co.. ISBN 0805080376.
10. ^ World of Chanel Watches
11. ^ Telegraph.co.uk "Nicole Kidman's latest Hollywood blockbuster"

[edit]External links

 The House of Chanel


 Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum
 "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert
Museum.
 Chanel's AW 08/09 show in the Hint Fashion Magazine
Coco Chanel
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Coco Chanel, 1920

Born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel

19 August 1883

Saumur, France

Died 10 January 1971 (aged 87)

Paris, France

Nationality French

Education Catholic Monastery in Aubazine

Labels Chanel

Awards Neiman Marcus Fashion Award, 1957

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971)[1] was a pioneering
French fashion designer whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit
of expensive simplicity made her an important figure in 20th-century fashion. She was the
founder of the famous fashion brand Chanel. Her extraordinary influence on fashion was such
that she was the only person in the field to be named on Time 100: The Most Important People
of the Century.[2]

Contents
[hide]

• 1 Early life
• 2 Later years
• 3 Personal life
• 4 Film depictions
• 5 Broadway
production Coco
• 6 Literary depictions
• 7 References
• 8 Further reading

• 9 External links

[edit]Early life
Chanel was born on 19 August 1883 in the small town of Saumur in France. She was the
second daughter of Albert Chanel and Jeanne Devolle, a market stallholder and laundrywoman
respectively at the time of her birth[3]. Her birth was declared the following day by employees of
the hospital in which she was born. They, being illiterate, could not provide or confirm the
correct spelling of the surname and it was recorded by the mayor François Poitou as "Chasnel".
[4]
This misspelling made the tracing of her roots almost impossible for biographers when Chanel
later rose to prominence. Her parents married in 1883. She had five siblings: two sisters, Julie
(1882–1913) and Antoinette (born 1887) and three brothers, Alphonse (born 1885), Lucien
(born 1889) and Augustin (born and died 1891). In 1895, when she was 12 years old, Chanel's
mother died of tuberculosis and her father left the family. Because of this, the young Chanel
spent six years in the orphanage of the Roman Catholic monastery of Aubazine, where she
learned the trade of a seamstress. School vacations were spent with relatives in the provincial
capital, where female relatives taught Coco to sew with more flourish than the nuns at the
monastery were able to demonstrate. When Coco turned eighteen, she left the orphanage, and
the ambitious young girl took off for the town of Moulins to become a cabaret singer. During this
time, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called “Coco.” Some say
that the name comes from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it
was a “shortened version of cocotte, the French word for ‘kept woman,” according to an article
in The Atlantic. While she failed to get steady work as a singer, it was here that she met rich,
young French textile heir Étienne Balsan, to whom she soon became an acknowledged
mistress, keeping her day job in a tailoring shop.

Hat by Chanel, 1912. Published in Les Modes.

Balsan lavished on her the beauties of "the rich life": diamonds, dresses and pearls. (Note that
in France, mistresses have been acknowledged for centuries among the wealthy, though the
members of the occupation, such as Chanel, were disparaged in private as upper-class
prostitutes.) While living with Balsan, Chanel began designing hats as a hobby, which soon
became a deeper interest of hers. "After opening her eyes," as she would say, Coco left Balsan
and took over his apartment in Paris.

Chanel became a licensed modiste in 1910 and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris
named Chanel Modes.[5] Chanel's modiste career boomed once theatre actress Gabrielle
Dorizat modelled her hats in the F Noziere's play Bel Ami in 1912 (Subsequently, Dorizat
modelled her hats again in Les Modes).[5] In 1913, she established a boutique in the fashionable
seaside town Deauville, where she introduced luxe casual clothes that were suitable for leisure
and sport.[5] Chanel launched her career as fashion designer when she opened her next
boutique, titled Chanel-Biarritz, in 1915,[5] catering for the wealthy Spanish clientele who
holidayed in Biarritz and were less affected by the war.[6] Fashionable like Deauville, Chanel
created loose casual clothes made out of jersey, a material typically used for men's underwear.
[5]
By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturiere and established her maison de couture at 31
rue Cambon.[5]

Later in life, she concocted an elaborate false history for her humble beginnings. Chanel would
steadfastly claim that when her mother died, her father sailed for America to get rich and she
was sent to live with two cold-hearted spinster aunts. She even claimed to have been born in
1893 as opposed to 1883, and that her mother had died when Coco was two instead of twelve.

In 1920, she was introduced by ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev to world-famous


composer Igor Stravinsky (who composed 'The Rite of Spring'), to whom she extended an offer
for him and his family to reside with her. During this temporary sojourn it was rumoured that they
had an affair.

[edit]Later years
In 1925, Vera Bate Lombardi, reputedly the illegitimate daughter of the Marquess of Cambridge,
[7]
became Chanel's muse, and also her liaison to a number of European royal families. Chanel
established the English look based upon Lombardi's personal style. Lombardi also had the
highest possible social connections. She introduced Chanel to her uncle, the Duke of
Westminster, her cousin, the Duke of Windsor, and many other aristocratic families.[8]

In 1939, at the beginning of World War II, Chanel closed her shops. She believed that it was not
a time for fashion.[6] She lived in the Hôtel Ritz Paris on and off for more than 30 years, making
the hotel her Paris home even during the German occupation. During that time she was
criticized for having an affair with Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a German officer and Nazi spy
who arranged for her to remain in the hotel.[2][9] She also maintained an apartment above her
couture house at 31 rue Cambon and built Villa La Pausa in Roquebrune on the French Riviera.

In 1943, after four years of professional separation, Chanel contacted Lombardi, who was living
in Rome. She invited Lombardi to come to Paris and renew their work together. This was
actually a cover for "Operation Modellhut", an attempt by Nazi spymaster Walter
Schellenberg to make secret contact with Lombardi's relative Winston Churchill.[8][10] When
Lombardi refused, she was arrested as a British spy by the Gestapo. Chanel was later charged
as a collaborator, but avoided trial due to an intervention by the British Royal family.[8]

Walter Kutschmann, who was responsible for the murder of thousands of Poland's Jews early in
World War II, was transferred to France in 1943 where he became Chanel's Paris SS contact.
Chanel was a very close friend of Walter Schellenberg to the extent that when he died penniless
of cancer in Milan, Chanel paid for his funeral. Kutschmann made frequent trips to Spain with
Chanel with large sums of money passing from Kutschmann to Chanel.[11]

In 1945, she moved to Switzerland, eventually returning to Paris in 1954, the same year she
returned to the fashion world.[6] Her new collection did not have much success with the Parisians
because of her relationship with the Nazis; However, it was much applauded by the British and
Americans, who became her faithful customers.[12]

[edit]Personal life
Coco dated some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married. The reason
may be found in her answer, when asked why she did not marry the Duke of Westminster:
"There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel."[13]

[edit]Film depictions
Chanel Solitaire (1981), directed by George Kaczender and starring Marie-France
Pisier, Timothy Dalton and Rutger Hauer.

The American television movie Coco Chanel debuted on 13 September 2008 on Lifetime
Television, starring Shirley MacLaine as a 70-year-old Chanel. Directed by Christian Duguay,
the film also starred Barbora Bobulova as the young Chanel, Olivier Sitruk as Boy Capel,
and Malcolm McDowell. The movie could be viewed as rewritten history for the Chanel
company, as it portrayed Coco's mistress life as love stories, left out her Nazi collaboration and
her use of royal connections to avoid trial. The movie also left out possible comparisons
between her and Mata Hari, (the famous spy of World War I who was also a dancer and
courtesan to the rich). However, any such comparison to Mata Hari may be viewed favorably
today as she was said by the Gestapo to be working for the British.[14]

There is also a film starring Audrey Tautou as the young Coco, titled Coco avant Chanel (Coco
Before Chanel), which was released on 22 April 2009. Filming on the project began 15
September 2008. Audrey Tautou is the new spokeswoman of Chanel S.A.

Another film concerns the affair between Chanel and the composer Igor Stravinsky. Chosen to
close the Cannes Film Festival of 2009, Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky is directed by Jan
Kounen and stars Anna Mouglalis and Mads Mikkelsen. The film is based on the 2002
novel Coco & Igor by Chris Greenhalgh.[15]

Two more projects are said to be in the works: one directed by Daniele Thompson.[16]

[edit]Broadway production Coco


Chanel was portrayed by Katharine Hepburn on Broadway in the 1969 musical Coco, with
music by André Previn, lyrics and book by Alan Jay Lerner, musical direction by Robert Emmett
Dolan, orchestration by Hershy Kay, and dance arrangements by Harold Wheeler.

After 40 previews, the production opened on 18 December 1969 at the Mark Hellinger Theatre,
where it ran for 329 performances. Hepburn was nominated for a Tony Award.

[edit]Literary depictions
Coco & Igor is a novel, written by Chris Greenhalgh, which depicts the affair between Chanel
and Igor Stravinsky and the creative achievements that this affair inspired. The novel was first
published in 2003.

In 2008 a children's book entitled Different like Coco was published. It depicted the humble
childhood of Coco Chanel and chronicled how she made drastic changes to the fashion
industry.

The Gospel According to Coco Chanel: Life Lessons from the World's Most Elegant Woman is a
novel written by Karen Karbo. Published in 2009, it chronicles the humble beginnings and
legendary achievements of Coco Chanel while providing insight and advice on everything from
embracing the moment to living life on your own terms.

[edit]References

1. ^ "Madamoiselle Chanel: The Perennially Fashionable". Chanel. Retrieved 2006-10-13.


2. ^ a b Ingrid Sischy (1998-06-08). "Coco Chanel". TIME 100 - The Most Important People
of the Century. TIME.
3. ^ This information and that below on the circumstances of her birth and name drawn from
the article "Où est née Chanel?" ("Where was Chanel Born?", in La Nouvelle République,
16/11/2002.
4. ^ Madsen, Axel. Chanel: A Woman of Her Own. Macmillan, 1991. ISBN 0805016392. p.
4.
5. ^ a b c d e f Mackrell, Alice. "Art and Fahion". Chrysalis Books Group.2005. Link label.
6. ^ a b c Adelia Sabatini (2010). "The House that Dreams Built". Glass Magazine (2): 66–
71. ISSN 2041-6318.
7. ^ "Sarah Getrude Arkwright, #159285, b. 1885". The Peerage
me » Fabric Information » Fabric Comparison Chart

Fabric Comparison Chart


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Identifying fabric is important. More important is the comparison of fabrics. This makes us know the true
quality of a fabric by differentiating it from its substitutes. The following chart gives a complete information
upon different types of fabric at a glance. It gives information about the weaves of the fabric, its
characteristics and the uses, the important part of comparison.

Another table is given at the bottom, which shows the comparison of only the characteristics of few
fabrics. For example, water retention is very high in cotton and the lowest in polypropylene. Same with the
drying time taken, very long in cotton and vice versa in polypropylene. Cotton and wool shrinks more than
polyester and nylon.

Fabrics Weaves Characteristics Uses

Clothing, uniforms,
Acetate Soft, crisp feel and durable. lingerie, linings,
interlinings.

Used as replacement of
Acrylic Durable, soft and wooly feel.
wool.

Men's and Women's


Various weaves,
Fine, silk-like, soft, suits, coats, and
Alpaca knits and
lightweight, and warm. sportswear, linings,
weights.
sweaters.

Angora Various weaves Smooth, very strong, and Carpet, upholstery,


goat and knitted. high luster. curtain, and automobile
cloth.

Knit wear - gloves,


Angora Various weaves Long, very fine, light weight,
scarves, sweaters, etc.
rabbit and knitted. extremely warm and fluffy.
for children and women.

Fur coats, trimming fur


Beaver Soft, silky, shiny.
and fabric garments.

Shirts, dresses,
Broadclot Closely woven with smooth particularly the tailored
Plain weave.
h finish. type in plain colors,
blouses, summer wear.

Coats, women's suits,


sports coats, sweaters,
some blankets and put in
Camel Light weight, lustrous and some very expensive
Twill or plain
hair soft. oriental rugs. Also used
in (fine) overcoating,
topcoating, hosiery and
transmission belts.

Hair canvas is an
Canvas Plain. Mostly rugged. interfacing material in
various weights.

All weaves but Knitted into sweaters for


Cashmere Soft, silky and very
mostly plain or men and women, also
(Kashmir) lightweight.
twill. All knits. women's dresses.

Women's and children's


dresses and blouses,
Challis Plain. Soft and very lightweight.
kimonos, neckties, and
sportswear.

Lightweight, sheer, and Evening wear, blouses


Chiffon Plain.
transparent. and scarves.

Depending on weight, it
Crinkled and puckered is used for dresses of all
Mostly plain but
Crepe surface with rough feel and types, including long
various weaves.
appearance. dinner dresses, suits,
and coats.

Figured on Reversible fabric with woven


Damask
Jacquard loom. pattern. Sheds dirt.
Originally had dark blue,
brown or dark gray warp with Pants, caps, uniforms,
Twill - right
a white or gray filling giving a bedspreads, slipcovers,
Denim hand - may be
mottled look and used only draperies, upholstery,
L2/1 or L3/1.
for work clothes. Comes in sportswear.
heavy and lighter weights.

Irregular with many slubs. It


Douppioni Plain. is imitated in rayon and some
synthetics

Uniforms, work clothes,


Closer, flatter wales that slip covers, sportswear,
Drill Twill.
gabardine. and many industrial
uses.

Soft, with a napped surface


that partially cancels the
weave. Dull finish. Made in a
Blazers, dresses, skirts,
Usually twill, variety of weights. Shrinks if
Flannel suits and coats. Boys
some plain. not pre-shrunk. Sags with
suits, jackets, and shirts.
wear, unless underlined.
Does not shine or hold a
crease.

Clear finish, tightly woven,


Men's and women's
firm, durable. Wears
Gabardin tailored suits, coats,
Steep twill extremely well. Inclined to
e raincoats, uniforms, and
shine with wear. Hard to
men's shirts.
press properly.

It is characterized by it's
crispness, body and
Georgette Plain.
outstanding durability. It is
sheer and has a dull face.

Herringbo It is usually created in wool Suitings, top coatings,


Twill.
ne twill and has varying qualities. sports coats.

Houndsto Broken twill Weaned into an irregular


sportcoats, suits.
oth weave. check of a four pointed star.

Linings, pile fabrics,


suitings, upholstery
Plain or twill or
Mohair Smooth, glossy, and wiry. fabrics, braids, dress
knitted.
materials, felt hats, and
sweaters.
Very strong, resistant to both
abrasion chemicals. It is
elastic, easy to wash and is Women's hosiery,
quite lustrous. It returns knitted or woven
Nylon
easily to it's original shape lingerie, socks and
and is non-absorbent. It is sweaters.
fast drying, resistant to some
dyes.

Made with tightly twisted


yarns. Crispness is due to a
finish with starch and
Collars and cuffs,
calendaring which washes
artificial flowers,
Organdy Plain. out, or a permanent
millinery, summer
crispness obtained with
formals, blouses, aprons.
chemicals. Wrinkles badly
unless given a wrinkle-free
finish.

Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp


fabric. It has a very wiry feel.
Evening dresses,
It crushes or musses fairly
trimming, millinery,
Organza Plain. easily, but it is easily
underlinings for delicate,
pressed. Dressy type of
sheer materials.
fabric, sometimes has a
silvery sheen.

Warp has two fine yarns


Men's shirts mostly.
Plain variations - which travel as one and one
Summer jackets, shirts,
Oxford usuallybasket 2 x heavier softly-spun bulky
skirts, dresses, and
1. filling which gives it a basket-
sportswear.
weave look. Rather heavy.

It is lightweight, strong and


resistant to creasing,
shrinking, stretching, mildew
and abrasion. It is readily Vary, depending on
Polyester
washable and is not damaged blend.
by sunlight or weather and is
resistant to moths and
mildew.

Dresses, blouses,
Pongee Plain. Light or medium weight.
summer suits.

Rayon It¹s drapability and dyeability Clothing, hose.


are excellent and it is fairly
soft. Rayon does have a
tendency to shrink but does
not melt in high
temperatures. It is resistant
to moths and is not affected
by ordinary household
bleaches and chemicals.

Lustrous and smooth with the


sheen in a filling direction.
Sateen filling- Dresses, sportswear,
Sateen Better qualities are
face weave. robes, pajamas.
mercerized to give a higher
sheen.

Usually has a lustrous surface


Slips, evening wear,
and a dull back. Made in
coats, capes, and
Satin Satin. many colors, weights,
jackets, lining fabrics,
varieties, qualities, and
millinery.
degrees of stiffness.

It is lightweight and flexible.


It resists deterioration from
perspiration, detergent and Athletic wear and
Spandex
body oils. It is characterized foundation garments.
by it¹s strength and
durability.

It is smooth with a sheen on Dressy evening wear:


Usually plain
its surface. The textures vary suits and coats, slips,
Taffeta with a fine cross
considerably. They have a ribbons, blouses,
rib.
crispness and stiffness. dresses.

It is coarse, strong, and


In lighter weights,
uneven. Dull lustre and
Usually plain but dresses. In heavier
Tussah rather stiff. Has a rough
also in twill. weights, coats and suits
texture with many slubs,
and ensembles.
knots, and bumps.

The pile is characterized by


Thick, plush uneven lengths (usually two)
pile, with a plain which gives it a rough look.
Dressing gowns, dresses,
Velour or satin ground, The two lengths of pile create
waist-coats.
or sometimes light and shaded areas on the
knitted. surface. A rather pebbled
effect.

Velvet Pile, made with velvet may be crush Eveningwear, at home


an extra warp resistant, water resistant, wear.
yarn. and drapes well. Has to be
handled with care, and
pressed on a velvet board.

Sheer and very light weight.


To obtain a top quality fabric,
Plain, loosely
Voile very highly twisted yarns are Dresses, blouses.
woven.
used. Voile drapes and
gathers very well.

It is very resilient and


resistant to wrinkling. It is Clothing, blankets,
Wool
renewed by moisture and winter wear.
well known for it's warmth.

Fabric Characteristics

Cotto Polyes Polypropy


Wool Nylon
n ter lene

Mediu
Water Retention High High Low Lowest
m

Drying Time Long Long Short Shortest Short

Heat Conduction Mediu


High Low Low Low
(Wet) m

Comfort Level Mediu Mediu


High High Medium
(Dry) m m

Shrinkage High High Low High Low

Mediu Mediu
Durability High Medium High
m m

Colour Choice High High High Low High

Paddling Mediu
Low Low High Medium
Suitability m

Camping Mediu Mediu


High High Medium
Suitability m m
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Identifying fabric is important. More important is the comparison of fabrics. This makes us know the true
quality of a fabric by differentiating it from its substitutes. The following chart gives a complete information
upon different types of fabric at a glance. It gives information about the weaves of the fabric, its
characteristics and the uses, the important part of comparison.

Another table is given at the bottom, which shows the comparison of only the characteristics of few
fabrics. For example, water retention is very high in cotton and the lowest in polypropylene. Same with the
drying time taken, very long in cotton and vice versa in polypropylene. Cotton and wool shrinks more than
polyester and nylon.

Fabrics Weaves Characteristics Uses

Clothing, uniforms,
Acetate Soft, crisp feel and durable. lingerie, linings,
interlinings.

Used as replacement of
Acrylic Durable, soft and wooly feel.
wool.

Various weaves, Men's and Women's suits,


Fine, silk-like, soft,
Alpaca knits and coats, and sportswear,
lightweight, and warm.
weights. linings, sweaters.

Angora Various weaves Smooth, very strong, and Carpet, upholstery,


goat and knitted. high luster. curtain, and automobile
cloth.

Knit wear - gloves,


Angora Various weaves Long, very fine, light weight,
scarves, sweaters, etc. for
rabbit and knitted. extremely warm and fluffy.
children and women.

Fur coats, trimming fur


Beaver Soft, silky, shiny.
and fabric garments.

Shirts, dresses,
Broadclot Closely woven with smooth particularly the tailored
Plain weave.
h finish. type in plain colors,
blouses, summer wear.

Coats, women's suits,


sports coats, sweaters,
some blankets and put in
Camel Light weight, lustrous and some very expensive
Twill or plain
hair soft. oriental rugs. Also used in
(fine) overcoating,
topcoating, hosiery and
transmission belts.

Hair canvas is an
Canvas Plain. Mostly rugged. interfacing material in
various weights.

All weaves but Knitted into sweaters for


Cashmere Soft, silky and very
mostly plain or men and women, also
(Kashmir) lightweight.
twill. All knits. women's dresses.

Women's and children's


dresses and blouses,
Challis Plain. Soft and very lightweight.
kimonos, neckties, and
sportswear.

Lightweight, sheer, and Evening wear, blouses


Chiffon Plain.
transparent. and scarves.

Depending on weight, it is
Crinkled and puckered used for dresses of all
Mostly plain but
Crepe surface with rough feel and types, including long
various weaves.
appearance. dinner dresses, suits, and
coats.

Figured on Reversible fabric with woven


Damask
Jacquard loom. pattern. Sheds dirt.
Originally had dark blue,
brown or dark gray warp
Pants, caps, uniforms,
Twill - right with a white or gray filling
bedspreads, slipcovers,
Denim hand - may be giving a mottled look and
draperies, upholstery,
L2/1 or L3/1. used only for work clothes.
sportswear.
Comes in heavy and lighter
weights.

Irregular with many slubs. It


Douppioni Plain. is imitated in rayon and
some synthetics

Uniforms, work clothes,


Closer, flatter wales that
Drill Twill. slip covers, sportswear,
gabardine.
and many industrial uses.

Soft, with a napped surface


that partially cancels the
weave. Dull finish. Made in a
Blazers, dresses, skirts,
Usually twill, variety of weights. Shrinks if
Flannel suits and coats. Boys
some plain. not pre-shrunk. Sags with
suits, jackets, and shirts.
wear, unless underlined.
Does not shine or hold a
crease.

Clear finish, tightly woven,


Men's and women's
firm, durable. Wears
Gabardin tailored suits, coats,
Steep twill extremely well. Inclined to
e raincoats, uniforms, and
shine with wear. Hard to
men's shirts.
press properly.

It is characterized by it's
crispness, body and
Georgette Plain.
outstanding durability. It is
sheer and has a dull face.

Herringbo It is usually created in wool Suitings, top coatings,


Twill.
ne twill and has varying qualities. sports coats.

Houndsto Broken twill Weaned into an irregular


sportcoats, suits.
oth weave. check of a four pointed star.

Linings, pile
fabrics,suitings, upholstery
Plain or twill or
Mohair Smooth, glossy, and wiry. fabrics, braids, dress
knitted.
materials, felt hats, and
sweaters.
Very strong, resistant to
both abrasion chemicals. It is
elastic, easy to wash and is
Women's hosiery, knitted
quite lustrous. It returns
Nylon or woven lingerie, socks
easily to it's original shape
and sweaters.
and is non-absorbent. It is
fast drying, resistant to
some dyes.

Made with tightly twisted


yarns. Crispness is due to a
finish with starch and
Collars and cuffs, artificial
calendaring which washes
flowers, millinery,
Organdy Plain. out, or a permanent
summer formals, blouses,
crispness obtained with
aprons.
chemicals. Wrinkles badly
unless given a wrinkle-free
finish.

Fine, sheer, lightweight,


crisp fabric. It has a very
Evening dresses,
wiry feel. It crushes or
trimming, millinery,
Organza Plain. musses fairly easily, but it is
underlinings for delicate,
easily pressed. Dressy type
sheer materials.
of fabric, sometimes has a
silvery sheen.

Warp has two fine yarns


which travel as one and one Men's shirts mostly.
Plain variations
heavier softly-spun bulky Summer jackets, shirts,
Oxford - usuallybasket 2
filling which gives it a skirts, dresses, and
x 1.
basket-weave look. Rather sportswear.
heavy.

It is lightweight, strong and


resistant to creasing,
shrinking, stretching, mildew
and abrasion. It is readily Vary, depending on
Polyester
washable and is not blend.
damaged by sunlight or
weather and is resistant to
moths and mildew.

Dresses, blouses,
Pongee Plain. Light or medium weight.
summer suits.

Rayon It¹s drapability and Clothing, hose.


dyeability are excellent and
it is fairly soft. Rayon does
have a tendency to shrink
but does not melt in high
temperatures. It is resistant
to moths and is not affected
by ordinary household
bleaches and chemicals.

Lustrous and smooth with


the sheen in a filling
Sateen filling- Dresses, sportswear,
Sateen direction. Better qualities are
face weave. robes, pajamas.
mercerized to give a higher
sheen.

Usually has a lustrous


surface and a dull back. Slips, evening wear,
Satin Satin. Made in many colors, coats, capes, and jackets,
weights, varieties, qualities, lining fabrics, millinery.
and degrees of stiffness.

It is lightweight and flexible.


It resists deterioration from
perspiration, detergent and Athletic wear and
Spandex
body oils. It is characterized foundation garments.
by it¹s strength and
durability.

It is smooth with a sheen on


Usually plain its surface. The textures Dressy evening wear:
Taffeta with a fine cross vary considerably. They suits and coats, slips,
rib. have a crispness and ribbons, blouses, dresses.
stiffness.

It is coarse, strong, and


In lighter weights,
uneven. Dull lustre and
Usually plain dresses. In heavier
Tussah rather stiff. Has a rough
but also in twill. weights, coats and suits
texture with many slubs,
and ensembles.
knots, and bumps.

The pile is characterized by


Thick, plush uneven lengths (usually two)
pile, with a plain which gives it a rough look.
Dressing gowns, dresses,
Velour or satin ground, The two lengths of pile
waist-coats.
or sometimes create light and shaded
knitted. areas on the surface. A
rather pebbled effect.

Velvet Pile, made with velvet may be crush Eveningwear, at home


resistant, water resistant,
an extra warp and drapes well. Has to be
wear.
yarn. handled with care, and
pressed on a velvet board.

Sheer and very light weight.


To obtain a top quality
Plain, loosely
Voile fabric, very highly twisted Dresses, blouses.
woven.
yarns are used. Voile drapes
and gathers very well.

It is very resilient and


resistant to wrinkling. It is Clothing, blankets, winter
Wool
renewed by moisture and wear.
well known for it's warmth.

Fabric Characteristics

Cotto Polyes Polypropy


Wool Nylon
n ter lene

Mediu
Water Retention High High Low Lowest
m

Drying Time Long Long Short Shortest Short

Heat Conduction Mediu


High Low Low Low
(Wet) m

Comfort Level Mediu Mediu


High High Medium
(Dry) m m

Shrinkage High High Low High Low

Mediu Mediu
Durability High Medium High
m m

Colour Choice High High High Low High

Paddling Mediu
Low Low High Medium
Suitability m

Camping Mediu Mediu


High High Medium
Suitability m m
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Acetate - also refers to cellulose acetate. Cellulose acetate or acetate rayon fiber is a synthetic fiber
based on cotton or tree pulp cellulose. It is very economical petro-based fiber. Invented by Swiss
brothers, Doctors Camille and Henri Dreyfus in Basel, Switzerland. The first commercial acetate filament
was spun in the United States in 1924 and trademarked as Celanese.

Acrylic - a synthetic polymer fiber containing at least 85% acrylonitrile.

Angora rabbit - a domestic rabbit variety, believed to be originated in Turkey along with Angora cat and
Angora goat, bred for its long, soft, usually white hair. Fiber obtained from Angora rabbit is more warm
than wool and is durable.

Camel hair - a soft and fine hair of a camel or a substitute for it. A soft, heavy-weight, usually
light tan cloth is made from the camel hair.

Cashmere - a hair fiber obtained from the fine, downy wool found beneath the outer hair of the Cashmere
goat. It is extremely warm and is constructed into fine or thick yarns, and light-weight to heavy-weight
fabrics. Used as men's and women's coats, jackets and blazers, skirts, hosiery, sweaters, gloves,
scarves, mufflers, caps and robes.

Cellulose - a common material of plant cell walls first noted in 1838. Chemically, it is a complex
carbohydrate composed of glucose units. Products like paper, textiles (rayon), pharmaceuticals, and
smokeless gunpowders are manufactured from it.

Coir - a coarse fiber obtained from the husk, the fibrous outer shell of a coconut, used chiefly in making
rope and matting.

Cotton - a soft fiber obtained from the shrubby plants of the genus Gossypium (cotton plant). It is grown
around the seeds of the plant. The fiber is spun into thread for making soft and breathable textile.
Flax - a soft, lustrous and flexible fiber obtained from the slender stems of a widely cultivated plant, Linum
usitatissimum. The higher grade of flax fiber is used to make linen fabrics like damasks, lace and
sheeting. Twine and rope is produced from the coarser grade.

Hemp - a tough, coarse fiber obtained from cannabis plant. It is strong, durable and unaffected by water.
Hemp fiber is used in making rope, sack, carpet, nets and webbing.

Jute - a long, soft, shiny fiber which are spun into coarse and strong threads. It is obtained from a jute
plant belonging to the genus Corchorus in the basswood family, Tiliaceae. It is mainly used to make
gunny sacks and gunny cloth.

Kevlar - a synthetic fiber five times stronger than steel and highly heat resistant, decomposes above 400
°C. It is mainly used for bulletproof vests, extreme sports equipments, and composite aircraft contruction.
It replaces asbestos, steel cords in car tires and in fire suits. Also known as Twaron and poly-
paraphenylene terephthalamide.

Linen - it is made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is mainly used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents,
and paper.

Lycra - a fiber that is capable of stretching up to 500% and then bounce back. It is also a trademark for
Invista, for a synthetic fabric of the same elasticity property. It is a sort of generically known "spandex".

Lyocell - a fiber obtained from wood pulp cellulose. The Federal Trade Commission classifies it as a sub-
category of rayon. Mainly used in making clothes, like jeans, trousers and coats.

Metallic fibers - a fiber either composed of meta, or fibers of other materials having a metal coating.
Mainly used for decoration and the reduction of static electricity.

Modacrylic - a textile medium-weight fiber containing 35-85% acrylonitrile with fair strength and abrasion
resistance. Also known as modified acrylic, it has good drape and is highly resistant to sunlight. Mainly
used as fur-like fabrics, wigs, and upholstery.

Mohair - long silky hair of Angora goad. The fabric obtained is a silk-like and is durable, light and warm.

Nylon - a fiber made from any of numerous strong and tough elastic synthetic polyamide materials. It is
used in making synthetic fabrics. A very famous end use is women's stockings.

Olefin - an alkene hydrocarbon. The term obtained from olefiant gas, an early name for ethylene which
mean "oil-forming".

Polyester - a fiber made a category of polymer whose monomer contains the ester functional group. The
fabrics made out of it is light, strong, weather-resistant and wrinkle-resistant.

Rayon - a transparent fiber obtained from processed cellulose. It was originally named artificial silk or
wood silk as it closely resembled silk. It absorbs water, giving more comfort to wear as a clothing textile.

Silk - a natural, fine, lustrous fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworms larva through a process
called sericulture.

Spandex - a synthetic fiber made from polymer containing polyurethan. Also known as elastane. It is
strong and more durable than rubber. It is exceptionally elastic.

Synthetic fibers - fibers that are the result of extensive research by scientists to increase and improve
the supply of natural fibers that have been used in making cloth. Few examples of synthetic fibers are
rayon, acetate, nylon, modacrylic, olefin, acrylic and polyester.

Viscose - an organic liquid used to make rayon, obtained from cellulose of wood or cotton fibers. It is
treated with sodium hydroxide and then mixed with carbon disulphide forming cellulose xanthate. This is
dissolved in more sodium hydroxide resulting in viscose to be extruded through a slit to make cellophane,
or through a spinneret to make viscose rayon.

Wool - a fiber obtained from the hair of domesticated animals, like sheep, goat, alpaca.

Photo Gallery | Articles | News | Fabrics Glossary


Featured Articles

• • Advantages of Cotton Polyester Fabric


• • Unmatchable Vintage Fabric and Retro Fabric
• • How to Know Right Thread Count of Egyptian Cotton Sheet?
• • Organic Cotton Baby Clothes- Why & How to Buy Them?
• • Benefits of Linen Fabric- Why to Wear Linen?

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Textile Yarn Suppliers
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Acetate - also refers to cellulose acetate. Cellulose acetate or acetate rayon fiber is a synthetic fiber
based on cotton or tree pulp cellulose. It is very economical petro-based fiber. Invented by Swiss
brothers, Doctors Camille and Henri Dreyfus in Basel, Switzerland. The first commercial acetate filament
was spun in the United States in 1924 and trademarked as Celanese.

Acrylic - a synthetic polymer fiber containing at least 85% acrylonitrile.

Angora rabbit - a domestic rabbit variety, believed to be originated in Turkey along with Angora cat and
Angora goat, bred for its long, soft, usually white hair. Fiber obtained from Angora rabbit is more warm
than wool and is durable.

Camel hair - a soft and fine hair of a camel or a substitute for it. A soft, heavy-weight, usually
light tan cloth is made from the camel hair.

Cashmere - a hair fiber obtained from the fine, downy wool found beneath the outer hair of the Cashmere
goat. It is extremely warm and is constructed into fine or thick yarns, and light-weight to heavy-weight
fabrics. Used as men's and women's coats, jackets and blazers, skirts, hosiery, sweaters, gloves,
scarves, mufflers, caps and robes.

Cellulose - a common material of plant cell walls first noted in 1838. Chemically, it is a complex
carbohydrate composed of glucose units. Products like paper, textiles (rayon), pharmaceuticals, and
smokeless gunpowders are manufactured from it.

Coir - a coarse fiber obtained from the husk, the fibrous outer shell of a coconut, used chiefly in making
rope and matting.

Cotton - a soft fiber obtained from the shrubby plants of the genus Gossypium (cotton plant). It is grown
around the seeds of the plant. The fiber is spun into thread for making soft and breathable textile.

Flax - a soft, lustrous and flexible fiber obtained from the slender stems of a widely cultivated plant, Linum
usitatissimum. The higher grade of flax fiber is used to make linen fabrics like damasks, lace and
sheeting. Twine and rope is produced from the coarser grade.

Hemp - a tough, coarse fiber obtained from cannabis plant. It is strong, durable and unaffected by water.
Hemp fiber is used in making rope, sack, carpet, nets and webbing.

Jute - a long, soft, shiny fiber which are spun into coarse and strong threads. It is obtained from a jute
plant belonging to the genus Corchorus in the basswood family, Tiliaceae. It is mainly used to make
gunny sacks and gunny cloth.

Kevlar - a synthetic fiber five times stronger than steel and highly heat resistant, decomposes above 400
°C. It is mainly used for bulletproof vests, extreme sports equipments, and composite aircraft contruction.
It replaces asbestos, steel cords in car tires and in fire suits. Also known as Twaron and poly-
paraphenylene terephthalamide.

Linen - it is made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is mainly used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents,
and paper.

Lycra - a fiber that is capable of stretching up to 500% and then bounce back. It is also a trademark for
Invista, for a synthetic fabric of the same elasticity property. It is a sort of generically known "spandex".

Lyocell - a fiber obtained from wood pulp cellulose. The Federal Trade Commission classifies it as a sub-
category of rayon. Mainly used in making clothes, like jeans, trousers and coats.

Metallic fibers - a fiber either composed of meta, or fibers of other materials having a metal coating.
Mainly used for decoration and the reduction of static electricity.

Modacrylic - a textile medium-weight fiber containing 35-85% acrylonitrile with fair strength and abrasion
resistance. Also known as modified acrylic, it has good drape and is highly resistant to sunlight. Mainly
used as fur-like fabrics, wigs, and upholstery.

Mohair - long silky hair of Angora goad. The fabric obtained is a silk-like and is durable, light and warm.

Nylon - a fiber made from any of numerous strong and tough elastic synthetic polyamide materials. It is
used in making synthetic fabrics. A very famous end use is women's stockings.

Olefin - an alkene hydrocarbon. The term obtained from olefiant gas, an early name for ethylene which
mean "oil-forming".

Polyester - a fiber made a category of polymer whose monomer contains the ester functional group. The
fabrics made out of it is light, strong, weather-resistant and wrinkle-resistant.

Rayon - a transparent fiber obtained from processed cellulose. It was originally named artificial silk or
wood silk as it closely resembled silk. It absorbs water, giving more comfort to wear as a clothing textile.

Silk - a natural, fine, lustrous fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworms larva through a process
called sericulture.

Spandex - a synthetic fiber made from polymer containing polyurethan. Also known as elastane. It is
strong and more durable than rubber. It is exceptionally elastic.

Synthetic fibers - fibers that are the result of extensive research by scientists to increase and improve
the supply of natural fibers that have been used in making cloth. Few examples of synthetic fibers are
rayon, acetate, nylon, modacrylic, olefin, acrylic and polyester.

Viscose - an organic liquid used to make rayon, obtained from cellulose of wood or cotton fibers. It is
treated with sodium hydroxide and then mixed with carbon disulphide forming cellulose xanthate. This is
dissolved in more sodium hydroxide resulting in viscose to be extruded through a slit to make cellophane,
or through a spinneret to make viscose rayon.

Wool - a fiber obtained from the hair of domesticated animals, like sheep, goat, alpaca.

Photo Gallery | Articles | News | Fabrics Glossary


Featured Articles

• • Advantages of Cotton Polyester Fabric


• • Unmatchable Vintage Fabric and Retro Fabric
• • How to Know Right Thread Count of Egyptian Cotton Sheet?
• • Organic Cotton Baby Clothes- Why & How to Buy Them?
• • Benefits of Linen Fabric- Why to Wear Linen?

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A simple burn test is done to identify unknown fabrics. The burn test for the identification of fabric should
be done only by skilled burners. It is usually done by many fabric stores and designers to determine the
exact fiber content. Some fabrics ignite and some melt. Burn test fail to distinguish between cotton and
other cellulose fibers. Some fabric also have finishes that effect burn results. With added chemicals,
weighted silk may sometime react more like synthetic fiber.

The following are effects of the fibers during or after the buring test. Make sure, informations provided is
not guaranteed.

Click here to view the table

SAFETY PRECAUTION : The burning test for identifying fabric should be done with caution. Only use
small piece of fabric and hold it with tweezers and not with fingers. Burning synthetic fabric can sizzle or
drip very fast and it curls onto skin or fingernails causing a burn. If a burn occurs, submerge the burned
are immediately in ice water.
Fabrics Glossary
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Antique Satin - a satin with horizontal (weft) slubs which imitates spun shantung silk. It is 60% rayon (the
face yarn fiber) and the 40% of acetate (the back yarn fiber). Often the warp and weft yarns are dyed with
different colors to give an iridescent effect.

Batik - is a dyeing method where the cloth is covered with wax designs. It is dipped into vegetable dye
that dyes the uncovered cloth without melting the wax. The wax is removed with hot water after the
design is finished.

Brocade - a multi-use formal, Jacquard woven fabric with intricate raised woven designs resembling
embroidery. It is often made with variety of thread colors depicting complex patterns and scenes with a
shiny finish. Background weave is often satin. To the back of the fabric, the threads are not tied-down and
are carried as "floaters".

Brocatelle - a specific type of medium weight brocade utilizing four or more sets of threads, equally for
warp and weft. It has large patterns in high relief to appear embroidered or puffy. It is woven finely for
formal, refined and sophisticated wear.

Calico - similar to broadcloth, made of cotton or cotton/polyester and usually printed in small "country" all-
over with multi-colored floral patterns.

Canvas - medium to heavy weight cotton fabric woven closely in plain or twill with relatively large threads.
Available in variety of colors, stripes and few printed designs. It is also referred as "duck" or "sailcloth". It
has many uses.

Casement - a fabric for drapery either loose or tight, open or closed, plain or novelty weave. Given color,
pattern and interesting texture through tyed complex-yarn arrangements and variations in weave. Usually
it is semi-sheer, translucent or opaque.
Cashmere - a soft fabric made of the wool grown beneath the outer hair of the Cashmere goat in Tibet
and the Kashmir province in India. It is popular because of its softness.

Chambray - made of cotton or linen, a lightweight fabric in plain, balanced weave using white threads
across a colored wrap. Pronounced "sham-bray".

Chevron - a regular and repeated zigzag pattern formed by reversing the twill weave. It is also known as
herringbone.

Crepe - a light soft thin fabric with a crinkled surface. It is made from silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber
either in plain or satin weave.

Damask - a formal satin base Jacquard fabric of linen, cotton, silk, or wool with reversible patterns. It is
medium weight with variety in colors and patterns. Used in decorative fabric situation.

Denim - a coarse twilled cloth, usually of cotton or cotton/polyester which is practical and sturdy. Navy
colored is used as jeans fabric and cream or white is used as Drill.

Embroidery - a surface ornamentation made with a thread or set of threads sewn onto a fabric.

Finish - a substance or the mixture of substances added to textile materials to impart the desired
properties.

Flannel - a fabric woven and then brushed to achieve a soft nap. It is made of wool or a blend of wool
and cotton or synthetics.

Flock - a material obtianed by cutting or grinding textile fibers to fragments. There are two types of flock,
precision cut flock, all fiber lengths are approximately equal and random cut flock, the fibers are ground or
chopped to produce a broad range of lengths.

Flocking - a method of ornamenting cloth with adhesive printed or coated on a fabric. Finely chopped
fibers are applied by dusting, air-blasting or electrostatic attraction. The fibers adhere to the printed areas
and it is removed manually from the unprinted areas.

Herringbone - a regual zigzag pattern fabric with a novelty or complex twill weave. It is woven or printed
on light-weight to heavy-weight fabrics.

Houndstooth - a medium to heavy weight woven twill fabric designed with continuous broken checks or
four-pointed stars resembling projecting "tooth-like" corners.

Jacquard - a weaving system which utilizes a versatile pattern mechanism to permit the production of
large and intricate patterns.

Lisserie - a fine Jacquard woven stripe which imitates silk and embroidery. The different figures and
colors in the pattern comes from the warp.
Matelasse' - a heavy-weight upholstery textile in Jacquard weave with double sets of warps and wefts.
The surface appears to be puffy or cushioned and is also known as double cloth.

Mohair - a fabric obtained from yarn made from the silky hair of the Angora goat.

Nylon - a man-made fiber where the forming substance is a synthetic polyamide. It exhibit excellent
strength, flexibility, elasticity and abrasion resistance.

Ottoman - a heavy silk or rayon fabric with broad, round weft threads that produce a horizontal rib. Used
for coats and trimmings.

Peau de Soie - a soft and fine silk fabric of satin weave having ribbed or grained appearance. It is a
French term which literally means "skin of silk".

Pile fabric - a fabric with an extra warp or weft set, woven to produce a deep surface texture like velvet,
terry cloth, frieze or corduroy.

Pilling - fibers tendency to work loose from the fabric surface and form a balled or matted particles
attached to the surface of the fabric.

Plaid - a cloth having a crisscross design. The stripes in warp and weft directions cross at intervals to
form different colors in square or rectangular patterns. It may be plain or twill weave.

Plisse' - a blistered or puckered finish given to a sheer, thin or light-weight fabric with a caustic soda.

Polyester - a man-made fiber where the forming substance is any synthetic polymer. It has high strength
and are resistant to shrinking and stretching. It is also wrinkle resistant.

Rayon - a man-made fiber basically composed of regenerated cellulose.

Rep, Repp - rib woven fabric (horizontal or vertical ribs) between poplin and ottoman in rib size and
weight. It is durable and medium to heavy-weight. Woven from cotton, wool, or silk.

Satin - a basic type of weave with up to eight weft threads are tied down with one floating weft thread. It is
light to medium-weight with glossy face and a dull back.

Scrim - a durable, open weave sheer cotton fabric used for curtains or upholstery lining or in industry.

Shantung dupioni - originally a spun silk fabric with slubs and forms interesting textures. Today,
shantung may be of natural or synthetic fibers. Fabrics imitating shantung are antique satin and antique
taffeta.

Suede cloth - a light or medium-weight synthetic knit or woven textile with brushed nap imitating suede
leather.
Tapestry - a Jacquard woven with multiple warps and wefts creating various color patterns or scenes.
Used as wall hangings for decoration or somtimes to cover furniture.

Toile - a sheer fabric similar to muslin or percale in plain or twill weave obtained from cotton or linen.

Tufted fabric - a pile fabric formed by tufting a yarn into a woven background. Example, some upholstery
fabrics and all tufted carpets.

Tweed - a coarse, rugged, and often nubby woolen fabric in plain balanced or variation (originally twill)
weave. Used as casual suits and coats.

Velour - a closely napped fabric with a soft, velvet-like texture, used for clothing and upholstery. It
includes some velvet, and all plush-pile surface cloths.

Velvet - a pile woven cotton, silk, and/or rayon fabric with a soft yet sturdy face. Very much like plush but
with a shorter pile. The underside is plain.

Vinyl - extruded polyvinyl chloride synthetic fabric flowed onto a knitted, woven, or non-woven base cloth
imitating leather. It is medium to heavy-weight upholstery fabric.

Voile - a light, plain-weave, sheer transparent fabric with tightly twisted yarns often having a stiff finish.
Available in novelty effects like pique stripes, printed patterns and stripes. It is obtained from cotton,
rayon, silk, or wool and used especially for making dresses and curtains.

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