International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard

Global Organic
Textile Standard

Version 2.0

Copyright: 2008 by 'International Working Group (IWG)

on Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)'

06.06.2008

Contact:
www.global-standard.org

Page 1
 Table of contents

1. Principles .................................................................................................................. 3
1.1. Aim of the standards........................................................................................... 3
1.2. Scope and structure ........................................................................................... 3
1.3. Version ............................................................................................................... 3
1.4. Label grading...................................................................................................... 3
2. Criteria ...................................................................................................................... 4
2.1. Requirements for organic fibre production .......................................................... 4
2.2. Requirements for material composition .............................................................. 4
2.2.1. Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic in
conversion" .................................................................................................................. 4
2.2.2. Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials"
or "made with x % organic in conversion materials"................................................ 5
2.3. General Requirements for Chemicals................................................................. 5
2.3.1. Prohibited substances and restricted inputs in all production stages ............ 5
2.3.2. Risk phrases and toxicity requirements in all processing stages........................ 6
2.4. Additional specific requirements for processing and related chemicals .............. 8
2.4.1. Separation and Identification.............................................................................. 8
2.4.2. Spinning............................................................................................................. 8
2.4.3. Sizing and weaving / knitting ........................................................................ 8
2.4.4. Non woven manufacture............................................................................... 8
2.4.5. Pre-treatment stages, wet processing .......................................................... 9
2.4.6. Dyeing .......................................................................................................... 9
2.4.7. Printing ....................................................................................................... 10
2.4.8. Finishing .......................................................................................................... 10
2.4.9. Requirements for accessories.......................................................................... 10
2.4.10. Environmental management .......................................................................... 11
2.4.11. Waste water treatment ................................................................................... 12
2.4.12. Storage, packaging and transport .................................................................. 12
2.4.13. Record keeping & internal quality assurance ................................................. 12
2.4.14. Technical quality parameters ......................................................................... 13
2.4.15. Orientation values for residues in organic textiles .......................................... 14
2.4.16. Orientation values for residues in additional materials and accessories ........ 15
3. Minimum social criteria ........................................................................................... 17
3.1. Scope ............................................................................................................... 17
3.2. Employment is freely chosen............................................................................ 17
3.3. Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected.... 17
3.4. Working conditions are safe and hygienic ........................................................ 17
3.5. Child labour must not be used .......................................................................... 18
3.6. Living wages..................................................................................................... 18
3.7. Working hours are not excessive...................................................................... 18
3.8. No discrimination is practised ........................................................................... 19
3.9. Regular employment is provided ...................................................................... 19
3.10. Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited ....................................................... 19
4. Quality assurance system....................................................................................... 20
4.1. Auditing of processing and manufacturing stages ............................................ 20
4.2. Residue Testing................................................................................................ 20
Annex............................................................................................................................... 21
A) Definitions.................................................................................................................... 21
B) List of additional fibres................................................................................................. 21
C) List of abbreviations .................................................................................................... 22

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1. Principles

1.1. Aim of the standards

The aim of these standards is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through
environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.

1.2. Scope and structure

These standards for organic textiles cover the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation
and distribution of all natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes.
The standards focus on compulsory criteria only.

1.3. Version

Version 2.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), dated 06.06.2008

1.4. Label grading

These standards provide for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of
'organic' / 'organic - in conversion' material in the final product. Labelling of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regula-
tion, on which the certification of the fibre production is based, permits such labelling for the fibre in question and if it can be demon-
strated that equivalent organic fibres are not commercially available in sufficient quantity, quality or type.

Final products, that are produced and manufactured in compliance with these standards by an operation that has been certified by an
approved certifying body may be sold, labelled or represented as:

a) "organic" or "organic - in conversion"

or

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b) "made with x % organic materials" or " made with x % organic - in conversion materials"
with regard to these standards.

An approved certifying body must include in its respective licensing/certification agreements that the products produced according to
the Global Standard must be labelled "Global Organic Textile Standard".

After the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard has introduced a logo the correct and binding usage of the
same will be defined in a separate document ('labelling guide').

2. Criteria

2.1. Requirements for organic fibre production

Approved are natural fibres that are certified organic and fibres from conversion period certified according to recognised international
or national standards and certified by any IFOAM accredited or internationally recognised (according to ISO 65) certifier. Certifying of
products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regulation on which the certification of the fibre production is based permits such a
certification for the fibre in question and if it can be demonstrated that equivalent organic fibres are not commercially available in suffi-
cient quantity, quality or type. Conversion nature of fibres must be stated as specified in chapter 1.4. of these standards.

2.2. Requirements for material composition

2.2.1. Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic in conversion"

95% or more of the fibre content of the products - excluding non-textile accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in con-
version' period (identified and labelled as specified in chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). Up to 5% of the fibre content may be
made of non-organic fibres including regenerated and synthetic fibres as defined in the annex. The remaining balance may not contain
any conventional fibres of the same raw material contained in the organic portion of the same product (i.e., no blending).

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2.2.2. Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials" or "made with x % organic
in conversion materials"

No less than 70% of the fibre content of the product - excluding accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion'
period (identified and labelled as specified in the chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). Up to 30% of the fibre content of the prod-
uct may be made of non-organic fibres, which must not be produced from GMO fibres. The remaining balance may contain a maxi-
mum of 10% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as defined in the annex, except that socks, leggings and sportswear may contain a
maximum of 25% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as defined in the annex. The remaining balance may not contain conventional fi-
bres of the same raw material contained in the organic portion of the same product (i.e., no blending).

2.3. General Requirements for Chemicals

2.3.1. Prohibited substances and restricted inputs in all production stages

Substance group Criteria

Permanent AOX in primary effluent Restricted: AOX may not constitute more than 1% per weight of any input
Aromatic solvents Prohibited
(Chloro-) Phenols (as TCP, PCP) Prohibited
Complexing agents and active deter- Prohibited are:
gents - APEO;
- EDTA, DTPA and similar persistent complexing agents;
- LAS, -MES
Formaldehyde and other short-chain Prohibited
aldehydes
Genetically modified organisms Prohibited
(GMO's) and their derivates (including
enzymes derived from genetically
modified micro-organisms)
Fungicides and Biocides Prohibited
Halogenated solvents Prohibited

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Substance group Criteria
Heavy metals Prohibited, inputs must be heavy metal free as defined by ETAD
Prohibited are metal complex dyes
- General exception for Iron
- Specific exception for copper: up to 5% in blue, green and turquoise dyestuffs
The exception for the use of copper will be reviewed in two years from date of
adoption.
Fluorocarbons Prohibited
Quaternary ammonium compounds Prohibited, except for auxiliaries used for fixing purposes in the dyeing process, pro-
vided they meet all other GOTS criteria. This exception will be reviewed in two years
from date of adoption.
Other explicit prohibited substances Any substances, that are prohibited with a recognised internationally or a nationally
valid legal character.

2.3.2.Risk phrases and toxicity requirements in all processing stages

All substances or preparations will be assessed on the basis of the MSDS.

Substance group Criteria

Other toxic substances No use is allowed for chemical substances and preparations that are assigned or may
be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases or
combinations thereof:

R26: Very toxic by inhalation.

R27: Very toxic in contact with skin.
R28: Very toxic if swallowed.
R39: Danger of very serious irreversible effects.
R40: Possible risks of irreversible effects.
R45: May cause cancer.
R46: May cause heritable genetic damage.
R48: Danger of serious damage to health by prolonged exposure.
R49: May cause cancer by inhalation.
R60: May impair fertility.
R61: May cause harm to the unborn child.

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Substance group Criteria
R62: Possible risk of impaired fertility.
R63: Possible risk of harm to the unborn child.
R68: Possible risk of irreversible effects.
No use is allowed for chemical substances and preparations that are assigned or may
be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases or
combinations thereof, in accordance with the criteria of classification given in EC
Directive CE 67/548, 18th Adaptation:
R50: Very toxic to aquatic organisms.
R51: Toxic to aquatic organisms.
R52: Harmful to aquatic organisms.
R53: May cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
R58: May cause long-term adverse effects in the environment.
R59: Dangerous for the ozone layer.
The introduction of R51, R52 and R53 may have the consequence of a remarkable
reduction in dying chemicals and auxiliaries. Considering the expected loss in dying
quality and diversity the mentioned R-sentences will be optional until next revision of
this standard. In certification process these parameters have to be controlled, docu-
mented and reported.
Parameter Criteria
Oral Toxicity 3) LD50 > 2000 mg/kg 3)
(minimum requirement)
Aquatic Toxicity 1) LC50, EC50, IC50 > 1 mg/l
(minimum requirement)
Relation of biodegradability / elimin- Only allowed, if:
ability 2) to aquatic toxicity 1) < 70% and > 100 mg/l
> 70% and 10100 mg/l
> 95% and 110 mg/l
Bio-accumulative Substances, known to be bio-accumulative and not biodegradable (70% 28d OECD
302A) are prohibited (=> TEGEWA classification III = high waste water impact).
1) Testing methods / [testing duration]: LC50 fish, OECD 203, [96hr]; EC50 daphnia, OECD 202 [48hr]; algae IC50, OECD 201 [72hr ]
2) Testing methods: OECD 301 A-E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, ISO 9888 or OECD 303A; testing duration in each case: 28 days
3) If the toxicity is only relating to the pH-value, alkaline and acids are accepted unless restricted in other parts of this standard.

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2.4. Additional specific requirements for processing and related chemicals

2.4.1. Separation and Identification

All stages through the processing chain must be established so as to ensure that organic and conventional fibres are not commingled
and that organic fibres are not contaminated by contact with prohibited substances.
All organic raw materials must be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages of the processing chain.

2.4.2. Spinning

Allowed additives include paraffin, paraffin oils and substances derived from natural raw materials only.

2.4.3. Sizing and weaving / knitting

Allowed sizing agents include starch, starch derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (carboxymethylcellulose).
Polyvinylalcohol (PVA) and Polyacrylate (PAC) may be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural sub-
stances only, calculated for the chemical without water.

Knitting / weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Other inputs must be derived from natural raw materials only.

2.4.4. Non woven manufacture

Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and entangling such as hydro entan-
glement.

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2.4.5. Pre-treatment stages, wet processing

Pre-treatment stage Criteria

Ammonia treatment Prohibited
- Exception: allowed for pre-washing of wool, if performed in close circuit.
Bleaches On basis of oxygen only (peroxides, ozone, etc.). Exceptions for non-cotton fibres
have to be approved by the certifier.
Boiling, kiering, washing Allowed are auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and
2.3.2. only
Chlorination of wools Prohibited
Desizing Allowed are GMO free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries that meet the basic
requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only
Mechanical/thermal treatments Allowed
Mercerization Allowed with auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and
2.3.2. only. Alkaline must be recycled.
Optical brightening Allowed are optical brighteners that meet all criteria for the selection of dyes and auxil-
iaries as defined in chapter 2.4.6, Dyeing. A review of this allowance will be done in
two years from date of adoption.
Other, not explicit listed pre-treatment Allowed are mechanical / thermal pre-treatment methods and such with the use of
methods substances on basis of natural raw materials.

2.4.6. Dyeing

Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes and auxiliaries Allowed are natural dyes and those auxiliaries and synthetic dyes that meet the re-
quirements stated in chapter 2.3.1, 2.3.2, 2.4.15 and 2.4.16 of these standards.
Prohibited are azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds (MAK Group III
1,2,3)

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2.4.7. Printing

Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes, pigments and auxil- Allowed are natural dyes and those auxiliaries, synthetic dyes and pigments that meet
iaries the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1, 2.3.2, 2.4.15 and 2.4.16 of these standards.
Prohibited are discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents.
Prohibited are plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC.
Prohibited are azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds (MAK Group III
1,2,3)

2.4.8. Finishing

Parameter Criteria
Selection of finishing methods and Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical finishing methods.
auxiliaries Natural auxiliaries and GMO free enzymes are permitted.
Synthetic auxiliaries are permitted only for softening, milling and felting, as long as
they meet the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 of these standards.
Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally permitted if their use is legally required in
the country and for the product in question. They must at least meet the requirements
stated in chapter 2.3.1

2.4.9. Requirements for accessories

Accessory Criteria
Sewing threads Allowed are natural and synthetic sewing threads.
Embroidery yarns Allowed are natural and synthetic embroidery yarns.
Appliqu Allowed on basis of natural materials only.
Elastic bands and yarns Allowed are natural and synthetic materials.
Linings / pockets Allowed are natural fibres only.
Inlays / Interface Allowed are inlays of natural fibres and viscose only.
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Accessory Criteria
Seam bindings / hatbands Allowed are seam bindings of natural and synthetic fibres.
Allowed are hatbands of natural fibres only.
Shoulder pads Allowed of natural fibres and viscose. Also mixtures with polyester are allowed.
Labels Allowed of natural fibres, polyester and viscose only.

Buttons / press-studs Allowed are natural raw materials and metal.

Metal buttons must be free of chrome and nickel. Plastic buttons are allowed if it can
be demonstrated that buttons from natural sources are not available in sufficient quan-
tity and with the required properties. A review of this allowance will be done in two
years from date of adoption.
Zips Allowed are tapes of natural materials, polyimide and polyester.
Allowed are chains of metal (free of chrome and nickel), polyimide and other plastics
(without PVC).
Buckles Allowed are tapes of natural materials only.
Allowed are chains of natural materials and metal (free of chrome and nickel).
Edgings Allowed are natural materials and elasthane.
Cords / borders Allowed are natural fibres only.
Supports and Frames Allowed are natural raw materials and metal (free of chrome and nickel).
Other, not explicit listed accessories Allowed are natural fibres only.
Material in general All accessories must meet the residue limits as given in section 2.4.16 of these stan-
dards
- No threatened timber
- No PVC
- No nickel or chrome

2.4.10. Environmental management

Operators must have a written environmental policy. Depending on the processing stages performed, the policy should include:
- person responsible;
- procedures to minimise waste and discharges;
- procedures for monitoring waste and discharges;
- procedures to follow in case of waste and pollution incidents;

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- documentation of staff training in the conservation of water and energy, the proper and minimal use of chemicals and their correct
disposal;
- programme for improvement.
Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including
the disposal of sludges.

2.4.11. Waste water treatment

Wastewater from all wet processing sites must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before dis-
charged to surface waters. Wet processing units must measure and monitor sediment quantities, waste water temperature and waste
water pH. Wastewater from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring sites and flax retting sites) must, when discharged to
surface waters after treatment (whether on-site or off site), have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg of textile output expressed as an
annual average. If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it must also have an pH between 6 and 9
(unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) and a temperature of less than 40C (unless the temperature of the receiv-
ing water is above this value). The COD/BOD ratio must be 5. The copper content must not exceed 0,5 mg/l.
Wastewater analyses must be performed and documented periodically at normal operating capacity.

2.4.12. Storage, packaging and transport

Organic textile products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances and
commingling with conventional products or substitution of the contents.
Packaging material must not contain PVC.
Transport means and routes must be documented.
In cases where pesticides/biocides must be used in storerooms / transport means, they have to comply with the applicable interna-
tional or national organic production standard.

2.4.13. Record keeping & internal quality assurance

All operational procedures and practices must be supported by effective documented control systems and records to provide an audit
trail to enable the inspectorate to trace:

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 The origin, nature and quantities of organic products which have been delivered to the unit;
The nature, quantities and consignees of products produced in accordance with these standards which have left the unit;
Any other information such as origin, nature and quantities of raw materials, accessories and processing aids delivered to the unit
and the composition of manufactured products that may be required for the purposes of proper inspection of the operation.

A valid organic certificate (e.g. transaction certificate) from an accredited certification body must be maintained for all purchased or-
ganic fibres and yarns.
The operator must check the integrity of the packaging or container and verify the origin and nature of any organic product from the
information contained in the label/documentation upon receipt of the organic product.
A product whose organic status is in doubt may only be put into processing or packaging after elimination of that doubt.

2.4.14. Technical quality parameters

Any final product labelled according to these standards should comply with the following technical quality parameters. Information
about any (potential) non-compliance(s) must be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.

Parameters Test method Criteria

Rubbing fastness, dry DIN 54021 ISO 105x12 3-4
Rubbing fastness, wet DIN 54021 ISO 105x12 2
Perspiration fastness, alkaline and acid DIN 54020 ISO 105 E04 3-4
Light fastness DIN 54004 ISO 105 B02 3-4
Shrinkage values when wet DIN 53920 ISO 6330
Knitted/hosiery: max. 8%
Woven: max. 3%
Saliva fastness LMBG B 82.10-1 "FAST" for baby and children's clothing
Washing fastness when washed at DIN 54010 ISO 105 C03 3-4
60C

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2.4.15. Orientation values for residues in organic textiles

Any final product labelled according to these standards should comply with the following chemical quality parameters. Information on
any (potential) non-compliance(s) must be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.

Parameter Test method Criteria

Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP) VDI 4301-3, i.A. < 0.01 mg/kg
o-Phenylphenole Extraction, DFG/S19, GC/MS < 1.0 mg/kg
Amines (amine-releasing azo dyes EN 14362-1 < 30 mg/kg
(MAK Group III 1,2,3))
AOX Extraction with boiling water, < 0.5 mg/kg
adsorption on charcoal, AOX-
Analyzer, ISO 9562 i.A. 1)
Disperse dyes (classified as allergenic DIN 54231 < 30 mg/kg
or carcinogenic)
Formaldehyde Japanese Law 112, < 16 mg/kg
ISO 14184-1 i.A.
Glyoxal and other short-chain alde- Extraction, HMBT, Photometry < 20 mg/kg
hydes UV/VIS
pH for wools ISO 1413 4.5 9.0
pH for other textiles ISO 1413 4.5 8.0
Total pesticides 64 LFGB L 00.0034
Cellulose fibres, silk < 0.1 mg/kg
Shorn wool, conventional < 1.0 mg/kg
Shorn wool, cert. org < 0.5 mg/kg
Heavy metals Elution DIN 54020 In eluate: figures in mg/kg referred to the textile
DIN 38406-H22/ICP-MS
Antimony (Sb) < 0.2 mg/kg
Arsenic (As) < 0.2 mg/kg
Lead (Pb) < 1.0 mg/kg (outerwear)
< 0.2 mg/kg (others)
Cadmium (Cd) < 0.1 mg/kg

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Parameter Test method Criteria
Chromium (Cr) < 2.0 mg/kg (outerwear)
< 1.0 mg/kg (others)
Chromium VI (Cr-VI) < 0.5 mg/kg
Cobalt (Co) < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear)
< 1.0 mg/kg (others)
Copper (Cu) < 50 mg/kg (outerwear)
< 25 mg/kg (others)
Nickel (Ni) < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear)
< 1.0 mg/kg (others)
Mercury (Hg) < 0.02 mg/kg
Selenium (Se) < 0.2 mg/kg
Organotin compounds (individually) Extraction, E-DIN 38407-13 i.A. TBT, DBT < 0.05 mg/kg
quantification with GC/MS MBT < 0.1 mg/kg
1) The determination of the residue of halogenated compounds in the textile follows an extraction of the textile with boiling hot water. The extracted halogenated
compounds will be adsorbed on charcoal. The charcoal with the adsorbed organic halogenated compounds will be analyzed following the ISO 9562 in adaption.

2.4.16. Orientation values for residues in additional materials and accessories

Any final product labelled according to these standards should comply with the following chemical quality parameters. Information on
any (potential) non-compliance(s) must be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.

Parameter Test method Criteria

Amines (azo dyes) EN 14362-1 < 30 mg/kg
AOX Extraction with boiling < 0.5 mg/kg
water, adsorption on
charcoal, AOX-Analyzer
ISO 9562 i.A. 1)
Disperse dyes DIN 54231 < 30 mg/kg
Formaldehyde and other short-chain al- Japanese Law 112 < 300 mg/kg (no skin contact)
dehydes ISO 14184-1 i.A. < 75 mg/kg (skin contact)
< 16 mg/kg (baby clothes)

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Parameter Test method Criteria
Glyoxal Extraction, HMBT, Pho- < 20 mg/kg
tometry UV/VIS
pH for wools ISO 1413 4.5 9.0
pH for other fibres ISO 1413 4.5 8.0
PCP, TeCP < 0.05 mg/kg
Total pesticides DIN 38409-14 i.A. < 0.5 mg/kg
Heavy metals Elution DIN 54020 In eluate: figures in mg/kg referred to additional mate-
DIN 38406-H22/ICP-MS rial or accessory
Arsenic (As) < 0.2 mg/kg
Lead (Pb) < 0.2 mg/kg
Cadmium (Cd) < 0.1 mg/kg
Chromium (Cr) < 1.0 mg/kg
Cobalt (Co) < 1.0 mg/kg
Copper (Cu) < 50 mg/kg
Nickel (Ni) < 1.0 mg/kg
Mercury (Hg) < 0.02 mg/kg
Nickel release EN 12472, EN 1811 < 0.5 g/cm2/week
1) The determination of the residue of halogenated compounds in the textile follows an extraction of the textile with boiling hot water. The extracted halogenated
compounds will be adsorbed on charcoal. The charcoal with the adsorbed organic halogenated compounds will be analyzed following the ISO 9562 in adaption.

Page 16
3. Minimum social criteria

3.1. Scope

The following social criteria currently apply to the textile processing level only. As far as a practical quality assurance system for the
farm level will be in place, these social criteria also apply for the farm level.

3.2. Employment is freely chosen

There is no forced or bonded labour.

Workers are not required to lodge "deposits" or their identity papers with their employer and are free to leave their employer after rea-
sonable notice.

3.3. Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected

Workers, without distinction, have the right to join or form trade unions of their own choosing and to bargain collectively.
The employer adopts an open attitude towards the activities of trade unions and their organisational activities.
Workers representatives are not discriminated against and have access to carry out their representative functions in the workplace.
Where the right to freedom of association and collective bargaining is restricted under law, the employer facilitates, and does not hin-
der, the development of parallel means for independent and free association and bargaining.

3.4. Working conditions are safe and hygienic

A safe and hygienic working environment must be provided, bearing in mind the prevailing knowledge of the industry and of any spe-
cific hazards. Adequate steps must be taken to prevent accidents and injury to health arising from, associated with, or occurring in the
course of work, by minimising, so far as is reasonably practicable, the causes of hazards inherent in the working environment.
Workers must receive regular and recorded health and safety training, and such training must be repeated for new or reassigned
Page 17
workers.
Access to clean toilet facilities and to potable water, and, if appropriate, to rest areas, food consuming areas and sanitary facilities for
food storage must be provided.
Accommodation, where provided, must be clean, safe, and meet the basic needs of the workers.
The company observing the code must assign responsibility for health and safety to a senior management representative.

3.5. Child labour must not be used

There must be no new recruitment of child labour.

Companies must develop or participate in and contribute to policies and programmes which provide for the transition of any child
found to be performing child labour to enable her or him to attend and remain in quality education until no longer a child; "child" and
"child labour" as being defined by ILO.
Children and young persons under 18 must not be employed at night or in hazardous conditions.
These policies and procedures must conform to the provisions of the relevant ILO standards (C138, C182).

3.6. Living wages

Wages and benefits paid for a standard working week meet, at a minimum, national legal standards or industry benchmark standards,
whichever is higher. In any event wages should always be enough to meet basic needs and to provide some discretionary income.
All workers must be provided with written and understandable information about their employment conditions including wages before
they enter employment and about the particulars of their wages for the pay period concerned each time that they are paid.
Deductions from wages as a disciplinary measure are not permitted nor must any deductions from wages unless provided for by na-
tional law without the express permission of the worker concerned. All disciplinary measures should be recorded.

3.7. Working hours are not excessive

Working hours must comply with national laws and benchmark industry standards, whichever affords greater protection.

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In any event, workers must not be required to work in excess of 48 hours per week on a regular basis, and must be provided with at
least one day off for every 7 day period on average. Overtime must be voluntary, must not exceed 12 hours per week, must not be
demanded on a regular basis and must always be compensated at a premium rate.

3.8. No discrimination is practised

There is no discrimination in hiring, compensation, access to training, promotion, termination or retirement based on race, caste, na-
tional origin, religion, age, disability, gender, marital status, sexual orientation, union membership or political affiliation.

3.9. Regular employment is provided

To every extent possible work performed must be on the basis of recognised employment relationship established through national
law and practice.
Obligations to employees under labour or social security laws and regulations arising from the regular employment relationship must
not be avoided through the use of labour-only contracting, sub- contracting, or home-working arrangements, or through apprenticeship
schemes where there is no real intent to impart skills or provide regular employment, nor must any such obligations be avoided
through the excessive use of fixed-term contracts of employment.

3.10. Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited

Physical abuse or discipline, the threat of physical abuse, sexual or other harassment and verbal abuse or other forms of intimidation
must be prohibited.

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4. Quality assurance system

4.1. Auditing of processing and manufacturing stages

Operators from post harvest handling up to garment making and final packing as well as importers and exporters of articles labelled
according to these standards must undergo an on site annual inspection cycle (including possible unannounced inspections) and must
hold a valid operational certificate. The responsible inspection- / certification body may decide on exceptions from the annual onsite
inspection cycle for sub-contractors with a low risk potential (non wet processing units only, such as home based knitting - / weaving
units, mechanical finishing units, ready to wear manufacturing units). Such units must be clearly identified, must have a contract with
the contracting licensee (who is responsible for their compliance with these standards) and may be subject to inspection at the certifi-
ers discretion (and at the contracting licensee's expense).
The licensee of the final product is responsible for exercising due care in ensuring the organic integrity of his processing chain.
Certifiers performing certification of processing and manufacturing stages according to these standards must be accredited ISO 65
and have textile certification in the scope of their ISO 65 accreditation. In addition they must be authorized by the International Work-
ing Group on GOTS. Prior to starting certification, a certifier must have applied to his accreditor for inclusion of the textile scope which
must be granted within 18 months.

4.2. Residue Testing

The licensed operator is expected to undertake residue testing in accordance with a risk assessment of potential contamination. All
products certified according to these standards and the components of such products should be included in this risk assessment and
therefore potentially subject to testing. The testing frequency and the number of samples should be established according to this risk
assessment, so as to ensure compliance with these standards.
Samples for residue testing may also be taken by the inspector during the required inspection visit, either as back-up to the inspection
process or in case of suspicion of contamination or non-compliance. Additional samples of goods may be taken from the supply chain
at any time without advance notice.
Laboratories that are accredited according to regulation EN ISO and that have appropriate experience in textile residue testing are ap-
proved to perform residue testing under these standards.

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Annex

A) Definitions

Term Used in chapter Binding definition for GOTS

'In conversion' 1.4 A product from an operation or portion thereof, which has completed at least 12
months under organic management and is under the supervision of a certification
body.
Sportswear 2.2.2 Sportswear includes any garment that is functional or technical active wear, which
requires it to perform properly with regard to stretch, sun block, insect repellent,
moisture repellent, wrinkle repellent and breathability. Such a garment is intended to
be suitable for activities such as walking, hiking, running, exercise, dance, and ath-
letic pursuits, not including leisure or casual wear.
'Permanent AOX' 2.3.1 AOX is permanent, if the molecular structure of the input contributes halogenated
organic compounds to wastewater generated during fibre processing
'Heavy metal free' 2.3.1 An input is considered as 'heavy metal free' if it complies with the limit values for
traces of the following elements as set by ETAD:
Antimony: 50ppm, Arsenic: 50ppm, Barium: 100ppm, Cadmium: 20ppm, Cobalt:
500ppm, Copper: 250ppm, Chrome: 100ppm, Iron: 2500ppm, Manganese: 100ppm,
Nickel: 200ppm, Mercury: 4ppm, Selenium: 20ppm, Silver: 100ppm, Zinc: 1500ppm,
Tin: 250ppm)
Bio-accumulative 2.3.2 A substance is considered as (potentially) bio-accumulative, if BCF (= bio-
concentration factor > 100 or if log Pow (= logarithm of the n-octanol-water partition
coefficient) > 3

B) List of additional fibres

The following regenerated and synthetic fibre materials may be included in the remaining balance as detailed in chapter 2.2.1 resp.
2.2.2. They may be mixed with the organic fibres or used in certain details:

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 a) Regenerated cellulose fibres - viscose, acetate and Lyocell;
b) Polyester;
c) Polyurethane (Elasthane);
d) Polyamide.

C) List of abbreviations

Organisations / Standards:

GOTS Global Organic Textile Standard

IWG International Working Group on GOTS (members: IVN, JOCA, OTA, SA)
IVN International Association Natural Textile Industry
JOCA Japan Organic Cotton Association
OTA Organic Trade Association
SA Soil Association

ETAD Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers
IFOAM International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements
OECD Organisation of Economic Cooperation and Development
TEGEWA Verband der Textilhilfsmittel-, Lederhilfsmittel-, Gerbstoff- und Waschrohstoff-Industrie

Others:

EC50 Effect concentration (50%)

IC50 Inhibition concentration (50% inhibition)
LC50 Lethal concentration (50% mortality)
-MES -methyl ester sulphonate (C16/18)
AOX Absorbable halogenated hydrocarbons and substances that can cause their formation.
APEO Alkylphenolethoxylate
BOD Biological Oxygen Demand

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COD Chemical Oxygen Demand
DBT Dibutyltin
DEHP Diethylhexylphthalate
DTPA Diethylenetriamine penta-acetate
EDTA Ethylendiamine tetra-acetate
GMO Genetically modified organisms
HMBT 2-Hydrazono-2,3-dihydro-3-methylbenzothialzole-hydrochloride
MBT Monobytyltin
LAS Linear alkyl benzene sulphonate
PCB Polychlorinated Biphenyls
PCP Pentachlorophenol
PVC Polyvinyl chloride
TBT Tributyltin
TCP Terachlorophenol
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