International Journal of Home Science 2016; 2(2): 283-287

ISSN: 2395-7476
IJHS 2016; 2(2): 283-287
2016 IJHS Application of natural dye on synthetic fabrics: A review
www.homesciencejournal.com
Received: 14-03-2016
Accepted: 15-04-2016 Shristi Purwar
Shristi Purwar
Abstract
Department of Fashion Design &
Technology, University of
Natural dyes are derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are
Allahabad, Allahabad, vegetable dyes from plant sources-roots, berries, bark, leaves, and woodand other organic sources such
Uttar Pradesh, India. as fungi and lichens. Natural dyes are mostly used to dye natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk, jute etc.
But very little information is available on dyeing of synthetic filament like polyester, acrylic, nylon etc.
This paper is a comprehensive review of application of natural dyes on synthetic fabrics. The dyeing of
synthetic fabrics with natural dyes requires pre-treatments to generate hydrophilic groups. This paper
highlights about the various pre treatment processes used to carry out dyeing with natural dyes on
synthetic fabrics. The paper also reviewed the properties of dyed synthetic fabrics.

Keywords: Natural dyes, synthetic fiber, pre treatments, fastness

1. Introduction
Dyeing is the process of adding colour on textile products. The main purpose of the dyeing on
textile material can be increase value addition, improvement of the performance and fulfill of
the customers needs. Textile dyeing industry at present uses excessive amount of synthetic
dyes to meet the required coloration of global consumption of textiles due to cheaper prices,
wider ranges of bright shades, and considerably improved fastness properties in comparison to
natural dyes. Dyeing is an ancient art which predates written records. Its practice could be
traced back during the Bronze Age in Europe [1]. That time, textile was dyed from natural
sources like fruits, plants, berries etc.
Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather as well as natural
fibers like wool, silk and cotton as major areas of application since pre-historic times [2].
Although this ancient art of dyeing textiles with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time,
but due to the wide availability of synthetic dyes at an economical price, a rapid decline in
natural dyeing continued. However, even after a century, the uses of natural dyes never erode
completely and they are being still used in different places of the world. Thus, natural dyeing
of different textiles and leathers has been continued mainly in the decentralized sector for
specialty products besides the use of synthetic dyes in the large scale sector for general
textiles/apparels [3].
But the production of synthetic dyes is dependent on petrochemical source, and some of these
dyes contain carcinogenic amines. The application of such dyes causes serious health hazards
and influences negatively the eco-balance of nature. Moreover, many countries already
imposed stringent environment standards over these dyes. In this situation, a higher demand is
put towards the greener alternatives or agricultural residues. As a result, natural dyes are
among the promising options for developing a greener textile dyeing process and such interest
is reflected to the increased number of recent publications [4]. In fact most of the commercial
dyers and textile export houses have started re-looking to the maximum possibilities of using
natural dyes for dyeing and printing of different textiles for targeting niche market.
Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic
dyes. Plant leaves, fruits and other are potential sources of natural dyes because of their easy
Correspondence availability and abundant nature. For successful commercial use of natural dyes for any
Shristi Purwar particular fibers, the appropriate and standardized techniques for dyeing for that particular
Department of Fashion Design &
Technology, University of
fiber-natural dye system need to be adopted. Thus, relevant scientific studies and its output on
Allahabad, Allahabad, standardization of dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and test of
Uttar Pradesh, India. standardization of dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and test of
~283~

International Journal of Home Science

compatibility of selective natural dyes have become very 2.1.2 Ozone treatment: Ozone pretreatment activates and
important [5]. This paper presents some relevant scientific improves dye ability of polyester and nylon fibers [9]. Elnagar
overview on dyeing of synthetic textiles with natural dyes and et al [10] have studied, fabrics are pretreated with UV/ozone for
related issues. different periods of time ranged from 5min to 120min. UV/O3
For success of commercial use of natural dyeing on synthetic irradiation was carried out using high intensity; low-pressure
fibers it should be essential to produced new shades with mercury lamp without outer envelope (LRF 02971, 200 watts,
acceptability of fastness behavior. So, there is need for using 220 volts, made in Poland) was placed in a cubic box of side
of appropriate scientific techniques and methods. Before length 60cm. Samples strips were hanged around the source
producing uncommon shades with balance colour fastness and at a distance (~20cm), for different periods 5, 20, 50, 110, and
eco performing textile, there has also need for reinvestigation 120 minutes, respectively.
of traditional process of natural dyeing in each step of
treatment (preparation, mordant, fastness). Presented paper 2.1.3 Mordant: Mordants are "metallic salts" that are used in
carried out application of natural dyes on polyester, nylon and natural dyeing to help set the dye pigment and improve color
acrylic fibers and focused on type of natural dyes and sources, and light fastness. The word comes from the Latin
understanding the application of dyes and colour fastness property. word "mordere" meaning "to bite" [11]. There are many types of
dye mordant such as - tannic acid, alum, urine, chrome alum,
2. Application of Natural Dyeing on Polyester Fabric sodium chloride, aluminum, chromium, copper, iron, iodine,
Polyester is a synthetic polymer made of purified terephthalic potassium, sodium and tin. The type of mordant used changes
acid (PTA) or its dimethyl ester dim ethyl (DMT) and the shade obtained after dyeing and also affects the fastness
monoethylene glycol (MEG) [6]. Polyester is hydrophobic in property of the dye. There are following types of application of
nature and quickly dry. The lack of polarity and the very mordant:
crystalline structure resists the entry of water molecules into Pre-mordant (on-chrome): The substrate is treated with
the polymer system. So, when polyester fiber colourant with the mordant and then dyed.
natural dyes, it should be pre treated. Generally it can be Meta-mordant (meta-mordant): The mordant is added in
treated with Plasma, Ozone, Mordant, Alkalis or Heating the dye bath itself.
before dyeing.
Post-mordant (after-chrome): the dyed material is treated
2.1 Pre treatment processes used for Polyester Fabric with a mordant.
2.1.1 Plasma treatment is a surface modification technology
Mordant solution significantly improves the recognized
through high / low temperature offers innovative solutions to measurable qualities of naturally dyed fibers, including light
adhesion and wetting problems. Plasma treatment is a dry and and wash-fastness. Mohammad A. S. [12] has studied, sodium
eco-friendly technology, which offers an attractive, alternative chloride along with copper sulfate treated as mordant on
to add new functionalities such as water repellence, long-term
polyester fiber before dyeing. Ado A. et al [13] have studied,
hydro-philicity, mechanical, electrical and antibacterial
three mordanting techniques were adopted before dyeing:
properties as well as biocompatibility due to the nano-scaled
In Pre-mordanting technique: Fabrics were mordanted
modification on textiles and fiber.
with metal salts and myrobolan (3% o.w.f) prior to
Various type of plasma treatments are used on textile
dyeing. It was carried out at 60 C for 30 minutes with
according to fiber, finishing or requirement such as oxygen
material to liquor ratio of 1:20.
plasma and air plasma are used for hydrophilic finish and
depth of shed of PET or PP fiber and SiC14 plasma used for In Simultaneous mordanting technique: Fabric were
dyeing improvement of PET [7]. treated with both dye extracts and metal salts concurrently
Motaghi et al [8] have studied in Plasma Sputtering Treatment. (3% o.w.f) at 60 C for 30 minutes with material to liquor
The design of the system is shown in Figure 1. Samples were ratio of 1:20.
placed on the anode, and exposed to argon plasma in a In Post-mordanting technique: Fabrics were dyed with dye
cylindrical glass tube. The chamber was evacuated to a extracts and samples were taken out of the bath, squeezed
pressure of 210-5 Torr, using rotary and diffusion pumps, and used for treatment with (3% o.w.f) metal salts without
and then argon gas was introduced into the chamber up to a washing. Mordanting was carried out at 60 C for 30
pressure of 210-2 Torr. Voltage was kept at 2000 V and the minutes with material to liquor ration of 1:20
discharge current was about 220 mA. The duration of Cu
Kundal et al [14] have studied, three synthetic mordants and one
deposition was 3, 5 minutes for different samples. By this
natural mordant were used for mordanting viz. Potassium
treatment, one part of polyester/wool fabric samples was
Aluminium sulphate, Stannous Chloride, Ferrous sulphate and
coated with copper.
Tannic acid, in different stages of mordanting: pre
mordanting, post- mordanting and simultaneous mordanting.
In Pre-mordanting stage: Polyester Fabric was treated
with mordant for 30 minute at 60 C. The dyeing was
carried out at 1:30 MLR (material to liquor ratio), for 40
min at 80 C. Dyeing and mordanting is done by using
Rota-Dyeing machine. As we know that synthetic
mordants are very toxic and their maximum use can create
an environmental issue so only 1% of mordanting was
done which is a permissible limit.
In Post-mordanting stage: In this method both the fabric
were dyed first then mordanting as the method used above
and rinsed in hot and then cold water and finally treated
with mordant solution for 30 minute at 60 C and rinsed.
Fig 1: Plasma Sputtering System used for Pretreatment of Polyester
~284~

International Journal of Home Science

In Simultaneous-mordanting stage: 1 ml of 1% mordant is applied in three stages pre, simultaneous and post. After that
mixed with 30 ml of dye extract and then 1 gm of fabric is mordant wetted fabric entered into the dye bath. Authors have
dyed with it for 40 minutes at 60 C. found fastness property to be good in simultaneous mordanting
method.
2.1.4 Alkalis: An alkali can be defined as a base that dissolves Kundal et al [14] have worked on Ficus cunia. It is a species
in water. A solution of a soluble base has a pH greater than of plant belongs to the family Moraceae produces light brown
7.0. M.F. Shahin et al [15] have studied Polyester samples were shade applied on mordant polyester fabric. Dye was extracted
treated with aqueous solution of NaOH (12%) at L.R. 1:50 at aqueous dye solution. Fabric was treated with three mordant
different degrees of temperatures (50-80 C) and for various techniques pre, simultaneous and post using with Rota
durations (30 -120 min.) before dyeing. The treated samples Dyeing machine. Dyed fabrics showed improved fastness
were, then, rinsed with hot and cold water. properties as compare to untreated mordant fabric and
obtained large no. of shades using with different mordant and
2.2 Natural dyes used for polyester mordanting methods.
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, M.F. Shahin et al [15] have applied Rhubarb on polyester fabric
invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are treated with alkali NaOH at L.R. 1:50 at different degrees of
vegetable dyes from plant sourcesroots, berries, bark, temperatures (50-80 C) for various durations (30-120 min.).
leaves, and woodand other organic sources such as fungi Rhubarb is a perennial plant and Dolu dye extracted from this
and lichens. In general, natural dyes apply on polyester fabric plant, produces shades of bright yellow brown. The author has
using exhaust dyeing method. The dyeing of polyester is used exhaust dyeing method. Results shown that alkalis treated
carried out using material: liquor ratio of 1: 15 to 1: 50, fabric produced different shades of colour other than untreated
temperature above 90 degree and pH ranges from 4-8. The fabric. It is also shown alkalis treated fabric improved fabric
dyeing is carried out for 1to 1.5 hrs. properties and performance.
Z. Motaghi & S. Shahidi [8] have applied madder and weld Ratanjot (Arnebia Nobilis) a natural source of red dye has
natural dyes on polyester fiber after plasma sputtering traditionally been used as a food colorant in cosmetic
treatment. Madder (Rubia Tinctorum) is a Eurasian plant. The formulations and pharmaceutical preparation. Bairagi and
root of madder produces red dye or pigment. Reseda Luteola is Gulrajani [17] have studied that the Ratanjot extract behaves as
a plant of species; source of weld natural dye produces bright disperse dyes and affinity for hydrophobic filament such as
yellow dye. In dyeing process, the plasma sputtered samples Nylon and Polyester.
directly were dyed with madder by using exhausted method. It
was observed plasma treated fabric dyed with madder showed 3. Application of Natural Dyeing on Nylon Fabric
chemical bond with polyester fabric. The fastness property of Nylon is a polyamide fiber made up of hydrocarbon repeating
fabric improved as compare to unexposed plasma fabric. units joined together by highly polar amide functional groups.
Curcumin is extracted from Curcuma Longa L. produces The amide groups provide sites for hydrogen bonding to dye
yellow colour on the textile material and Saffron is molecules. The ability of a dye to bond to a fabric may be
a spice derived from the flower of Crocus Sativus, commonly improved by using of mordant and steam treatment [18].
known as the "saffron crocus". It makes tone of golden yellow
colour. Elnagar et al [10] were used curcumin and saffron 3.1 Pre treatment processes used for Nylon fabric
natural dyes on polyester fiber in our study. For dyeing 3.1.1 Mordant
procedure the authors were introduced ozone treated pre- Lokhande et al [19] have studied various mordants like
mordanted fiber contained by ferrous sulphate into dye bath. Aluminium Potassium Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Ferrous
The samples showed moderate wash and light fastness. Hasan Sulfate, Stannous Chloride, Tannic Acid, Harda Powder were
M. Mahabub et al [16] have applied purified curcumin on used before dyeing of nylon fiber. In this work pre-mordanting
polyester and obtained various shades of yellow colour like method was used. For mordanting, pots were prepared with the
brown orange, black orange etc. with different dyeing required amount of mordant (on the weight of fabric basis) and
parameter of pH value, temperature and time. Ethanol, fabric was introduced into the pot at room temperature (25
chloroform, acetone and n-hexane are used as solvent to C). The temperature of the bath was raised to boil and
extract the dye from Curcuma Longla L. Before applying of mordanting was continued for 45 min. Ibrahim et al [20] have
exhaust dyeing method polyester fabric were pre-mordanted worked on various mordants like alum, Zn-sulfate and tannic
by aluminium potassium sulphate, copper sulphate and tartaric acid and applied on polyamide-6 fabrics for natural dyeing.
acid. It was observed that using Copper sulphate as mordant Mordanting was done at 90 C temperature, 1: 30 LR for 30
gives better result for colour strength and fastness. minutes duration and then samples were thoroughly rinsed in
Mohammad A. S. [12] has studied on Henna and onion skin water and dried at 80 C/5min.
natural dyes. Henna is obtained from Lawsonia Inermis plant
which have found red-orange dye molecule. Onion skins are 3.1.2 Steam treatment
one of the reliable natural dyestuffs found in two different Steam treatment is an important part in textile finishing.
ways - yellow onion skin produces rich golden yellow shades Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature
and red onion skin makes earthy range of colours. For for setting without considering the sublimation properties of
application of dyes, author has introduced pre mordant of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and
polyester fabric into dye bath under closed dyeing system. It running properties of goods. Rossi et al [21] have studied
was observed that onion skin dyed fabric have higher value lumber steam treatment on natural dye and investigated wash
colour strength relatively to henna dyed fabric. fastness. Lumber treatment is method of wood preservation.
Kola nut is the fruit of the kola tree belongs to the family of
Sterculiaceae. Ado A. et al [13] have applied kola nut dyes on 3.2 Natural dyes used for Nylon Fabrics
polyester fabric in three varieties red, white and bitter. Nylon is commonly dyed with chemical dyes. But in recent
Author has extracted dye through kola powder soaked by years, natural dyes considered for dyeing on nylon fiber /
distilled water. Myrobolan and Metal salts used as a Mordant fabric. Lokhande et al [19] have studied on three natural dyes
~285~

International Journal of Home Science

Onion (Allium cepa), Lac (Laccifer Lacca) and Turmeric natural dyes on Acrylic Filament. To avoid pre-treatment
(Curcuma longa), Onion is a good source of colour obtained recently, ratanjot has been added during manufacturing of
yellow and earthy colours. Lac extract from the scale insects acrylic fiber as dope dyed material. It was observed the dyed
obtained red dye. Turmeric extracted from rhizomes of fibers have very good fastness property.
turmeric produces bright yellow colour. Authors have applied
above these dyes on pre mordant nylon fabric using with Open 5. Conclusion
dye bath and HTHP dyeing. The results have shown that, So far, less work has been carried out on dyeing of synthetic
mordanting of copper and iron are giving slight improvement fiber with natural dyes. Synthetic fabric requires pretreatment
in the light fastness, while alum and tin brings brighter shades process before dyeing with natural dyes. Among pretreatment
of dyeing. The wash fastnesses with all mordants are quite process majority of the work is carried out on mordant process.
good The natural dye along with mordant gives good fastness
Ibrahim et al [20] have applied safflower and madder natural properties. There is need to carry out more research work to
dyes on pre mordant polyamide 6 through exhaust method in improve the fastness properties of natural dye on synthetic
the presence of Albegal Bleveling agent. The results have fabrics. There is need to develop data base with production of
shown eco friendly mordants bring remarkable improvement appropriate shade card for synthetic fabrics.
in the colour strength, UV-protection and anti-bacterial
property. 6. References
Ticiane Rossi et al [21] have worked on lumber steam treatment 1. Ado A, Yahaya H, Kwalli AA, Abdulkadir RS. Dyeing of
of Eucalyptus wood on nylon fiber. They used exhaust dyeing textiles with eco-friendly natural dyes: A review,
process without addition any mordant / agents. Dye bath International Journal of Environmental Monitoring and
contained NaCl at the concentration of 20 g/L. and then Protection. 2014.
investigated wash fastness analysis. The results have shown 2. Samantha K, Agarwal P. Review article on Application of
nylon fabric dyed in brownish shade and excellent washing Natural Dyes on Textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre &
fastness rating (4.5). Textile Research. 2009; 34:384.
Elnagar et al [10] were used curcumin and saffron natural dyes 3. Samantha K, Agarwal P. Review article on Application of
on Polyamide fabric. For dyeing, authors were introduced Natural Dyes on Textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre &
ozone treated pre-mordanted fiber contained by ferrous Textile Research. 2009; 34:384.
sulphate into dye bath and found as a result moderate wash and 4. Samanta AK, Konar A, Dyeing of Textiles with Natural
light fastness. Dyes: A review, Indian Journal of fiber and textile
Arora A. et al [22] have dyed various textile substrates such as research, 2009, 34.
cotton, wool, silk, nylon and acrylic with hexane extract of 5. Samanta AK, Konar A, Dyeing of Textiles with Natural
Ratanjot using exhaust dyeing method. The dyed polyester Dyes: A review, Indian Journal of fiber and textile
shows pink colour, Nylon shows blue and all other substrates research, 2009, 34.
acquire purple colour under similar dyeing condition. 6. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyester
7. http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2013/10/plasma-treatment-
4. Application of Natural Dyeing on Acrylic fiber in-textiles.html
Acrylic synthetic fiber made from a polymer 8. Motaghi Z, Shahidi SS. Development of Polyester-Wool
(polyacrylonitrile), contained about 85% acrylonitrile units. It fabrics dye ability using Plasma Sputtering, RMUTP
has good thermal stability and moisture management. Research Journal Special Issue. 2014.
9. http://www.chemtronicsindia.com/ozone-textile-waste-
4.1 Pre treatment processes used for Acrylic fabric water.html
The ability of a dye to bond to a fabric may be improved by 10. Elnagar K, Abou A, Raouf S. Dyeing of Polyester and
using of mordant. Guizhen K. [23] has studies on ferros Polyamide Synthetic Fabrics with Natural Dyes Using
sulphate and cupric sulphate mordants on acrylic fiber before Eco-friendly Technique, Journal of Textiles. 2014, 8.
natural dyeing. They used simultaneous mordant method with Article ID 363079,
1: 100 bath ratio in our orthogonal experiment. El-Shishtawy 11. onic.net/dbeebee/IMDI new/mordants.html
et al [24] have studied on alum and Feross Sulphate on modified 12. Mohammad AS. An Economic Dyeing Process for
acrylic fabric as a mordant. For mordanting they adjusted pH Cotton, Polyester and Cotton/Polyester Blended Fabrics,
value with acetic acid and then boiled for one hr. Journal of textile and apparel, technology and
management. 6(4).
4.2 Natural Dyes used for Acrylic Fabric 13. Ado A, Musa H, Gumel SM, Yahaya H. Eco-Friendly
Guizhen K. [23] has studied on Rhizoma coptidis and its dye- Dyeing of Cotton and Polyester Fabrics with Natural Dyes
ability in terms of thermodynamic and kinetic properties and Extracted from Different Varieties of Kola Nuts,
dyeing condition on pre mordant Acrylic fiber through iron International Journal of Chemical and Biomolecular
salt and copper salt. Rhizoma coptidis is also known as coptis Science. 2015; 1(1):6-11.
chinensis, belongs to perennial herbaceous plant, produces 14. Kundal J, Singh SV, Purohit MC. Extraction of Natural
yellow colour. For dyeing they used orthogonal experiment. Dye from Ficus cunia and Dyeing of Polyester Cotton and
The result has shown dyeing temperature is most significant Wool Fabric Using Different Mordants, with Evaluation
factor, colour value increase with dyeing temperature and of Colour Fastness Properties, Natural Products Chemistry
wash fastness good in both cases (4-5 grade). & Research.
El-Shishtawy et al [24] have used both dyes on pre treated 15. Shahin MF, Ahmed RM, Marie MM. Optimizing the
modified acrylic material for dyeing with presence of sodium Dyeing Process of Alkali-Treated Polyester Fabric with
sulphate. Result has shown Madder gives good fastness as Dolu Natural Dye, Journal of Engineering Research and
compared to Curcumin. It also shows clearly colour Applications. 2014; 4(6), 4:35-40.
differences in the presence of different mordants. 16. Hasan MM, Hossain MB, Mohammad AY, Azim A,
Purwar. et al [25] have worked on application of Ratanjot
~286~

International Journal of Home Science

Ghosh NC, Md. Shamim R. Application of Purified

Curcumin as Natural Dye on Cotton and Polyester.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology.
14(05).
17. Bairagi N, Gulrajani ML. Studies on dyeing with shikonin
extracted from Ratanjot by supercritical carbon dioxide.
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research. 30:196-199.
18. https://www.flinnsci.com/media/620609/91251.pdf
19. Lokhande HT, Vishnu AD. Dyeing Nylon with Natural
Dyes, American Dyestuff Reporter, February 1999.
20. Ibrahim NA, Wessam M, Mohammed EZR, Heba EZ,
Ghazal A. Enhancing the UV-protection and Antibacterial
Properties of Polyamide-6 Fabric by Natural Dyeing,
Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology
(TLIST) 2013; 2(1).
21. Rossi T, Maurcio C Arajo, Brito JO, Harold SF. Wash
Fastness of Textile Fibers Dyed with Natural Dye from
Eucalyptus Wood Steaming Waste. International Journal
of Chemical Molecular Nuclear Materials and
Metallurgical Engineering. 2015; 9(7).
22. Arora A, Rastogi D, Gupta D, Gulrajani M. Dyeing
Parameters of Hydroxynaphthoquinones Extracted
from Arnebia nobilis Rech. f. Indian Journal of fiber &
Textile. 2012; 5:168.
23. Guizhen K. Dyeing Properties on Natural Dye Extracted
from Rhizoma coptidis on acrylic fiber, Indian Journal of
Fiber and Textile research, 2014; 39:102-106.
24. El-Shishtawy RM, Shokry GM, Nahed SE, Kamel MM.
Dyeing of Modified Acrylic Fibers with Curcumin and
Madder Natural Dyes, Fibers and Polymers. 2009;
10(5):617-624
25. Purwar Roli, Sahoo P, Jain M, Bothra U, Yadav P, Juneja
J, Srivastava C. Dope Dyeing of Polyacrylonitrile
filaments with Ratanjot. Indian Journal of Fiber & textile
Research. 2016; 41:84-88.

~287~