Industrialattachmentofnazbangladeshltd 140515042508 Phpapp02

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
Department of Textile Engineering
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd
Acknowledgement
A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report.
Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special
thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, C-Text. ATI, the Head of the department
of Textile Engineering, Southeast University, for continuously guiding us about the
development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas
and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.I would also like to express
our heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile
Engineering, Southeast University for all necessary information for preparing this report.
I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Monju, General Manager, N.
A. Z Bangladesh Ltd, who has allowed us to work in his organization within a
congenial atmosphere during the industrial training period.
I recognize Mr. Nipu, Manager (Dyeing) and Md. Shifon AGM (knitting) N. A. Z
Bangladesh Ltd. for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matters
while working in the organization.
I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager, Knitting,
Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge on various
fabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professional
knowledge.
My sincere appreciation goes to the entire N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
extending their hands of cooperation through out the training period.
team for
Name:N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
1 CHAPTER : PROJECT DESCRIPTION
1.1. Introduction:
Every one knows that learning is the best part of thinking possibility. In human life
education is the primary source of learning process. We need to learn for particular points
of theoretical parts it should be some lack of looking this function such a fabric making on
a circular machine and dyeing and finishing process in practical. It should be looking and
knows about the functions, running of this machine, Uses material, and manufacturing
materials. It must be need for good practical knowledge and proper handling of the
machine.
Internship is making this opportunity. Because we have known theoretical knowledge but
we have lack of industrial knowledge. It has to fill up for industrial attachment. N.A.Z
Bangladesh Ltd. has getting this opportunity for me.
NAZ Bangladesh Ltd is a knit composite industry. It is a 100% export oriented industry in
Bangladesh. The factory is making about knitting, knit dyeing & finishing and knit
garments. Due to the change in environment, the textile sector is facing a great challenge.
But NAZ BD Ltd fully prepared to face this situation. The goal of NAZ BD Ltd is to
become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from
Bangladesh. N.A.Z has highly develop advanced technology and an emphasis on
developing local human resources, the Textile Division has the potential to make an
important contribution to the nation's growing ready made garments export sector.
The rational behind the existing structure and future expansion of the Textile & fiber
Division is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process.
Despite Bangladesh's lack of indigenous cotton production capability, N.A.Z. has
leveraged Bangladesh's labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the maximum.
This factory is fully complained and very much concern about the labor law and
compliance. This factory also concerned about environmental issue as they have well
established Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). In NAZ Bangladesh Ltd., I have completed 2
months (8 weeks) long industrial training in knitting, dyeing, finishing and garments.
During the training period we faced a lot of technical problem, which we solve by
consulting with the related persons. Whatever knowledge we have gain during my training
period, it will help us to build up our career as a Textile Technologist.
Project Description
1.2.
Layout of N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd.

ETP
KNITTING
SECTION
Utility Building
Fabric store
store
GARMENTS
UNITE
STORE
CHEMIffCfAL
3 STD OFFICE AND
POND
Printing
Chemical
UNDERCONSTRUC
TION
GATE
WORKSHO
P
ACCESSORIES
ANSER CAMP
E
POND
W
Gate
S
Dormitory
2
Project Profile
1.3.Project Profile
Company name
N. A. Z. BANGLADESH LIMITED.
Head Office
House #21 , Road # 13, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212
Tel No
880-2-9861831, 9860445, 8854101 Extn: 128 / 156
Fax
880-2-9889078
E-mail
[email protected], [email protected]; [email protected];
URL
www.nazbd.com
Factory
5, Bishuya Kuribari Bari, Mirzapur, Rajendrapur, Gazipur-1700
Tel No
880-2-9289054-6
Fax No
880-2-9289053
Location
45~50 minutes drive from

(Mymansingh)
HSJI
Airport to towards North
Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director)

Contact Phone :+88 01711 814 912
Contacted persons
Mr. Salauddin Jakir (Merchandising Manger)

Contact Phone: +8801714302133
Mr. Shamim Khan ( Sr. Merchandiser Marketing &
Merchandising )
Contact Phone: +88 01711 465 336
Type
: 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Legal Form of Company
: Private Limited Company.
Year of Incorporation
: 1987
Commencement of Operations
: 1987
Project cost
: 250 crore
Name of the Bank
: Exim Bank
Industrial Training
3|Page
Project Profile
Main Production
: T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank tock, Jacket, Trousers,

Bottoms, etc. and all kinds of Knit fabric & garments.
Factory space
: 9, 07,200 sq.ft.
Total Employees
: 3350 persons
No. Of employees
: 350 persons
No. Of workers
: 3000 persons
Working Period
: 3 (Three) Shift Per Day
Production Capacity
Knitting
: 20 Tons/Day
Dyeing & Finishing : 16 Tons/Day

Garments
: 55,000 Pcs/Day
PC Printing
: 25,000 Pcs/ Day
Embroidery
: 50,000,000 Stitches/Day
Garments Wash
: 25000 Pcs/Day
1.4.Yearly Turn Over
Industrial Training
Serial No
Year
Turn Over (Per Year)
01
1996
US $ 7.02 Million
02
1997
US $ 8.20 Million
03
1998
US $ 9.65 Million
04
1999
US $ 10.56 Million
05
2000
US $ 12.76 Million
06
2001
US $ 15.86 Million
07
2002
US $ 17.65 Million
08
2003
US $ 20.00 Million
2004
US $ 22.00 Million
10
2005
US $ 25.00 Million
11
2006
US $ 25.00 Million
12
2007
US $ 26.00 Million
13
2008
US $ 28.00 Million
4|Page
Project Profile
1.5.Different Dipertment:
Different sections of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.
A. Knit section
Knitting
Inspection
B. Dyeing section
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing lab
Quality control
Finishing
C. Garments section
Different
sections
Merchandising
Sample
Cutting section
Sewing section
Finishing section
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
Sewing Thread Dyeing

Printing Unit
Embroidery Unit
Accessories Unit
Maintenance section
Electrical
Mechanical
I. Utility:
Electricity
Gas
Water
Boiler
ETP
J. Store section
K. Administration section
L. Security section
M. Marketing section
N. Production planning &control
O. Human Resource & Development
section
Industrial Training
5|Page
Project Profile
Supporting Department
Personnel Administration
Procurement
Marketing
HRD
Finance & Accounting
MIS (Management Information System)
Work Study
Complience & Safety
Companies of N.A.Z. Group
N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.
N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. (Accessories Unit)
CA Knitwear Ltd.
Needle Touch Garments Ltd.
Certifications:
ISO
Oeko Tex-100
Main Buyers of N.A.Z. Bangladesh LTD:

SL
BUYER
COUNTRY
01
TARGET
USA
02
TESCO
UK
03
H&M
SWEDEN
04
WAL MART
USA, CANADA, MEXICO
05
PUNTORAMA
SPAIN
06
TRR
ITALY
Industrial Training
6|Page
Project Profile
1.6.History of the project development
After successful operation in N.A.Z. Group, the owner had decided to start a fully
information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled
modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. It is situated at 5,
Bishuya Kuribari, Mirzapur, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh. In the year 1987 to manufacture
knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the
company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time.
To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, N.A.Z. Group Decided to
integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process
has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned
manufacturers.
1.7.Vision & mission of the project:

The mission and vision of N.A.Z. Group is to manufacture and deliver high quality
readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance
customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments
and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of N.A.Z. Group has decided to adopt the
following To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the
organization.
By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
To collect customers feedback regularly to know about their conception about
their company and to take timely appropriate action.
To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annums
implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the
organization.
Industrial Training
7|Page
Man Power Management
2 CHAPTER : MAN POWER MANAGEMENT
Industrial Training
8|Page

2.1.Manpower Organ gram
Manpower organ gram of N. A. Z Bangladesh is as follows -
Managing Director
Executive Director
GM (Marketing)
GM (Production)
Knitting Manager
Dyeing Manager
Finishing & Q.C Manager
Asist. Manager
Asist. Manager
Shift In-charge
Shift In-charge
Deputy Manager
Q.C Technician
Sr. Production Officer
Sr. Production Officer
Production Officer
Production Officer
Assist. Production Officer
Assist. Production Officer
Sr. Operator
Shift In-charge
Operator
Sr. Operator
Operator
Industrial Training
9|Page

2.2.Management system
Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.

Matching is done under lab manager.
Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.
Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.
Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.
Then shift in-charge with the supervisors start bulk production.
On line and off line quality check is done by lab in-charge and asst. dyeing manager.
After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the
supervision of shift in-charge.
Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.
Shifting:
In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. The whole day production time is divided into 3 shift.
Per shift 8 hours.
Shift
Duration
Shift A
6:00 am- 2:00 pm
Shift B
2:00pm 10:00 pm
Shift C
10:00 pm- 6:00 am
2.3.Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post

General Manager
To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.

To set up price for the product.
To plan apply and control all administrative functions.
To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.
Manager
To supervise the personal working under him.

To plan the sequence of production.
To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production?
To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.
Industrial Training
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Deputy General Manager (DGM) production
Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
Check the different log books in different areas and report to management.
Check the plan to control the best output
To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.
Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
Any other work as and when required.
Senior Production Officer
Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

Batch preparation and pH check.
Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check
Write loading/unloading time from machine.
Program making, sample checking color measurement.
Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
Any other work as and when required.
Production officer
To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the
smooth running of the section.
To match production sample with target shade.
To match production sample lot sample matching next production.
To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
T sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM.
To execute the overall floor work.
To maintain loading/unloading paper.
Shift In charge
To follow the workers movement.

Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening.
To maintain the production sequence.
To check the sample at certain time interval.
Industrial Training
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Raw Materials
3 CHAPTER: RAW MATERIALS
Industrial Training
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Raw Materials
3.1.Raw Materials
Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting

Square Spinning mill
Basher spinning mill
Kamal spinning mill
Prime Spinning mill
Aman spinning mill
RK Spinning mill
Fariha spinning mill
JK Spinning mill
Shohagpur spinning mill
AKIJ Spinning mill
Amber cotton mill
Pahartoli Spinning mill
Rising spinning mill
Youth Spinning mill
Shirin spinning mill
Kader Spinning mill
NZ spinning mill
Silver Spinning mill
Karim spinning mill
Shemem Spinning mill
Lycra: CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)
Industrial Training
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Knitting Section
3.2.Types of yarn used and their count:
Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd

Type of yarn
Count
Cotton
20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S
Polyester
70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn
20D,40D,70D
Grey Mlange (C-90% V-10%)
24S, 26S
Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%)
24S, 26S, 28S
Cotton Mlange (100%)
24S, 26S, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton)
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
3.3.Cost of Raw Materials:

Table 3.3: Cost of yarn
Yarn Count
Combed Yarn
Carded Yarn
40/1
36/1
3.65 $/Kg
3.00 $/Kg
2.65-2.7$/Kg
2.5-2.6 $/Kg
32/1
2.90 $/Kg
2.30 $/Kg
30/1
2.70 $/Kg
2.30 $/Kg
28/1
2.65 $/kg
2.25 $/Kg
26/1
2.60 $/Kg
2.25 $/Kg
24/1
2.55 $/Kg
2.20 $/Kg
20/1
2.50 $/Kg
2.15-2.2$/Kg
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Knitting Section
Lycra Yarn:
20 den - 12.70 $/Kg
40 den - 8.40 $/Kg
70 den - 7.50 $/Kg
Cost of knitting
Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices
Fabrics
Taka/kg
Rib (1x1)
12-13
Rib (2x2)
14-15
Interlock
15-16
Single Jersey
7-8
Lacost
8-9
Pique
8-9
Terry fleece
14-15
Remarks: As the yarn consumption totally depends on production and production depends
on order of buyer, so recommendation of yarn type, source, price, requirements may vary.
15 | P a g e
Knitting Section
4 CHAPTER : KNITTING UNIT
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Knitting Section
4.1.Organ gram of Knitting Department
GM
AGM
Manager
Knitting Master
Asst. Manager
Asst.Master
Sr.Fitter
Supervisor
Servicing -5
Shift
A-4
Shift
B-4
R& D sample
Asst.Operator-2
Shift
C-4
Shift A
Production
Y/D
Asst.Manager
In charge
Sr.Production Officer
Sub Contract
Out Scorching
Manager
Manager
Supervisor
Sub Contract
Inside
Asst.Manager
Floor In charge
QC- 3
Shift B
QC- 3
Shift C
Production Officer
Production Officer
Production Officer
Shift In Charge
Shift In Charge
Shift In Charge
APO
APO
APO
Operator-40
Operator-40
Operator-40
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Knitting Section
Maintenance
Room
4.2. Layout of Knitting Department
Office Room
Fabric Store
AGM
Room
Gate
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Knitting Section
Circular
knitting m/c
V-Bed
knitting m/c
Fabric inspection
m/c
Fire Extinguisher
Hose Pipe
Fabric Rack
Floor Marking
4.3.Knitting:
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a
series of interlooping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.
Types of weft knitting m/c:
The N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a self- sufficient modern company. Its knitting section is
divided into two sections1. Flat Knitting Section
2. Circular Knitting Section
4.4.Circular knitting section:
Main parts of circular knitting m/c:
1. Yarn feed guide
2. Latch needle
3. Holding down sinker
4. Needle cylinder
5. Needle retaining spring
6. Needle operating cams
7. Cylinder driving wheel
8. Cylinder driving gear
9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft
10. Sinker cam top
11. Cam box
12. Cam plate
13. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.
14. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
15. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
16. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
17. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
18. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.
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Knitting Section
19. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
20. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
4.5.Basic knitting element:
1. Needle.
2. Sinker.
3. Cam.
Needle:
Function of needles: Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new
loop above it on the needle steam.
Types of needle:
In general there are three types of needles.
a. Bearded needle.
b. Latch needle.
c. Compound needle.
Hook
Rivet
Latch
Steam
Butt
Figure 4.1: Latch Needle
CAM:
Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action
for the needles or other elements.
Types of cam: Two type of cam
1. Engineering cam
Knit cam
2. Knitting cam
Miss cam
Tuck cam
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Knitting Section
Function of CAM
The functions of cam are as follows:
Produce motion to needles.
Loop formation.
Holding down.
Knocking over
Sinker:
This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual and
collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles.
Function of sinker:
It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action
and consequent sinker shape and movement.
Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:

GSM cutter
Electronic balance
Inspection m/c
4.6.Terms and definition of knitting:
Course A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle.
Wales A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle.
Loop - It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic
unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft
of woven structures termed Wales and courses respectively
Stitch - The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a
yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.
Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop
& half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more
extensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.
Steps should be taken to change stitch length.
-
Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.

Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.
Set of the position of carriage.
Set the speed of take- up roller
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Knitting Section
-
Maintain the optimum yarn tension.
Yarn count:
Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit
length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count can be calculated in two systems:
Direct system:
In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner
the yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Lycra and other synthetic fibers.
Direct Count
W l
w L
Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system
Table 4-1: Yarn Count in Direct system

System
Unit weight
Unit length
Uses
Tex
Grams
1,000m
Polyester
Denier
Grams
9,000m
Lycra
D-Tex
Grams
10,000m
Lycra
Pounds/Spyndle
Pounds
14400yds
Jute
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Knitting Section
Indirect system:
In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count
finner the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton,
worsted & woolen.
Indirect Count
w L
W l
Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system
Table 4-2: Yarn Count in Indirect system
System
English (Ne)
Unit weight
1 lb
Unit length
840 yds
Uses
Cotton yarn
Metric (Nm)
1 kg
1 km
Cotton yarn
Worsted
1 lb
560 yds
Worsted yarn
Woolen
1 lb
256 yds
Woolen yarn
Stitch Density - Courses per inch (CPI) Wales per inch (WPI)
M/C Gauge - A number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the
number of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length
in the knitted fabric.
4.7.Flat Knitting Section
Flat knitting section consists of Flat knitting machines. Its main production is Collar & Cuff.
Different types of designed collar & Cuff is produced here matching with the body of the
garments.
Flat knitting machine is used to make collar and cuff with the required shape. Collar and cuff
is usually with heavier gsm and thus multiple ply of yarn is used per feeder. No of yarn ply
used will also depend on the yarn count. Lycra is also used when required.
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Knitting Section
Table 4-3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff
Yarn count (Ne)
No. of yarn ply
20
22
24
26
30
4-5
34
Size of collar according to size of garments:

Boys collar
Boys cuff
Mans:
:Length 29 to 36 cm x width 8cm

: Length 31 cm x width 3cm
Table 4-4: Collar & Cuff measurements
Size
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL
Collar measurement (cm)

40 x 9
42 x 9
44 x 9
46 x 9
48 x 9
50 x 9
Cuff measurement (cm)

40 x 3.5
40 x 3.5
40 x 3.5
40 x 3.5
44 x 3.5
44 x 3.5
Collar and cuff which is made with V-bed knitting machine has 3 edge and need not to cut.
Those fabrics have following 4 parts:
1. Tube
2. Tube end
3. Body
4. Separation
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Knitting Section
Sequence of operations in knitting section:
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Setting the machine for the specific

design
Sample fabric production
Buyer approval
If No
If Yes
Bulk Production
QC
Send to Batching section
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Knitting Section
Table 4-5:Main Product - Fabrics :-
Single Jersey:
Single Jersey (Lycra)
Single Jersey (Auto Stripe)
Single Jersey (Singed)
Single Jersey (Pigment Dye)
Single Jersey (Sueded / Ultra Soft)
Pique
Pique (Auto Stripe)
Pique (Sueded / Ultra Soft)
Pique (Mercerized)
Pique (Ultra soft)
Interlock
Interlock (Ultra soft)
Interlock (Pigment Dye)
Interlock D/N (Cotton)
Interlock D/N (Polyester)
Rib: Any Drop Needle

Rib (Pigment Dye)
Rib (Ultra soft)
Rib Elastane
Flat Back Rib
Variegated Rib
Semi Jacquard
Mesh
Mesh
Fleece
Fleece
Fleece (Inside Brush)
Fleece (Both Side Brush)
Terry Fleece
Polar Fleece
Terry Fleece (Pigment Dye)
Lacoste
Lacoste
Lacoste (Auto Stripe)
Lacoste (Pigment Dye)
Waffle
Waffle
Valor
Valor
Single Jersey
Pique
Interlock
Rib
Jacquard
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Knitting Section
Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needle arrangement of knit fabric
Single Jersey
Single jersey fabric vertical Waless line is shown on the face side of the fabric. On the back side sinker loops are produced. This
fabric is produced by the needles of only one set needle. This fabric has curling effect on the edge after cut in relax state towards
the back at the sides and towards the front at the top and bottom.
End use: basic T-shirt, mens vest, fine cardigans, ladies hosiery, full-fashioned knitwear etc.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KKKK
Face Side
1x1 Rib
Back Side
Rib fabric shows the face loop on the both sides of the fabric. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in-between each other so
that walse of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. This fabric has good elasticity and has no
curling effect.
End use: waist bands, cuffs and collars and typical applications, skirt belt, various types of fancy borders, sweaters etc.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
K
D M
K
C M
Face Side
MKM
KMK
MKM
KMK
Needle
Arrangement
Back Side
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Knitting Section
Interlock
Interlock has same appearance on both sides, like face of plane, but its smooth surface cannot be stretched. Interlock process
two sets of needles (short and long) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders. This fabric cannot be un roved from
either sides and has no curling effect.
End use: under wear, trouser, sportswear, t- shirts, polo shirts etc.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
D
C
Face Side
Single Lacost
Face Side
MK
KM
MK
KM
Back Side
Single lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with
cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back of the structure. The repeat of this structure
completes on four courses.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KTKK
KKKT
Back Side
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Knitting Section
Double Lacost
Double lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with cylinder
needle only. The prominence of the design near to the single lacost design. The repeat of this structure completes on six
courses. Benzene structure is shown on back side of the fabric.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KKKKTT
KTTKKK
Face Side
Single Pique
Back Side
Single pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design
appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back
side of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on two courses.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KT
TK
Face side
Back side
29 | P a g e
Knitting Section
Double pique
Double pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design
appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back side
of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on four courses.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KKTT
TTKK
Face side
Fleece
Back side
Fleece fabric is produced with the combination of knit, tuck and miss loops and this is s/j structure. Face side of the
fabric is like face of s/j and miss loop will appear on the back side. If back side is brushed then called fleece fabric.
Looping diagram
Cam Arrangement
Needle
Arrangement
KTKM
KMKM
KMKT
Face side
Face side
30 | P a g e
Knitting Section
4.8.Specifications of knitting machines used in N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
Table 4.7. 1Single Jersey
SL/
NO.
M/C
TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEED
ER
QTY
BRAND
ORIGIN
S/J
19
24
57
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
200
S/J
20
24
60
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
225
S/J
21
24
63
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
450
S/J
22
24
66
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
500
S/J
23
24
69
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
750
S/J
22
24
66
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
500
S/J
23
24
69
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
750
S/J
25
24
75
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
300
Lycra
Attachment
S/J
24
24
72
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
550
Lycra
Attachment
10
S/J
25
24
75
ORIZIO
ITALY
S/J, Pique
300
Lycra
Attachment
11
S/J
26
24
114
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
S/J, Pique
500
Lycra
Industrial Attachment
31 | P a g e
FABRICS
TYPE
PRO.
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
Knitting Section
Attachment
12
S/J
28
24
123
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
S/J, Pique
500
Lycra
Attachment
13
S/J
26
24
114
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
S/J, Pique
500
Lycra
Attachment
Total
21
Table 4-7. 2
SL/
NO.
M/C
TYPE
6025
Fleece + 2 Thread Fleece + 3 Thread Fleece
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER
QTY
BRAND
ORIGIN
FABRICS
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
Fleece
28
20,24
90
MAYER & CIE
GERMAN
Y
S/J ,Fleece
400
Lycra
Attachment
Fleece
30
20,24
96
MAYER & CIE
GERMAN
Y
S/J ,Fleece
400
Lycra
Attachment
Fleece
32
20,24
102
MAYER & CIE
GERMAN
Y
S/J ,Fleece
450
Lycra
Attachment
Fleece
34
20,24
108
MAYER & CIE
GERMAN
Y
S/J ,Fleece
500
Lycra
Attachment
Fleece
32
20,24,28
96
Fukahama
TAIWAN
S/J ,Fleece
350
Lycra
32 | P a g e
Knitting Section
Attachment
6
Fleece
34
20,24,28
102
Total
Fukahama
TAIWAN
S/J ,Fleece
Table 4-7. 3
SL/
No.
M/C TYPE
400
Lycra
Attachment
2500
Rib + Interlock + Flat Back Rib + Drop Needle
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
Fee
der
QT
Y
BRAND
ORIGIN
FABRICS
TYPE
Prod
cap/kg
REMARKS
Rib+Interlock
30
14,18
62
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
300
Lycra Attachment
Rib+Interlock
34
14,19
70
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
350
Lycra Attachment
Rib+Interlock
36
14,20
74
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
400
Lycra Attachment
Rib +Interlock
36
14,20
74
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
400
Lycra Attachment
Rib +Interlock
38
14,21
78
MAYER & CIE
GERMANY
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
500
Lycra Attachment
Rib +Interlock
36
16,22
72
Fukahama
TAIWAN
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
350
Lycra Attachment
Rib +Interlock
38
16,23
76
Fukahama
TAIWAN
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
400
Lycra Attachment
Rib +Interlock
40
18,22
84
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
Rib+I/L+F/Rib
400
Lycra Attachment
33 | P a g e
Knitting Section
9
Rib
40
16
80
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
Rib +F/Rib
800
F/Look lycra Attach
10
Rib
42
18
84
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
Rib +F/Rib
400
F/Look lycra Attach
11
Interlock
38
24
114
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
INTERLOCK
400
Lycra Attachment
12
Interlock
40
24
120
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
INTERLOCK
400
Lycra Attachment
13
Interlock
42
24
126
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
INTERLOCK
400
Lycra Attachment
14
RIB
34
15
24
Juinn Long
TAIWAN
RIB
200
Lycra Attachment
Total
21
Table 4.7.1 Terry
5700
= S/J + Terry / Terry Fleece + Velor + Polar Fleece etc.
M/C
TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER
QTY
BRAND
Terry
42
20
68
MAYER & CIE
Total
ORIGIN
Germany
FABRIC
S TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
Terry
1000
1000
34 | P a g e
REMARKS
Lycra Attachment
Knitting Section
Table 4.7. 4 Auto Stripe + Feeder Stripe (S/J + Pique + Lacoste + Other Design)
SL/
NO.
M/C TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEE
DER
QT
Y
BRAND
Auto Stripe
34
24
48
Fukahama
JAPAN
Auto Stripe
300
Lycra Attachment
Auto Stripe
36
24
48
Fukahama
JAPAN
Auto Stripe
350
Lycra Attachment
Auto Stripe
38
24
48
Fukahama
JAPAN
Auto Stripe
400
Lycra Attachment
Total
ORIGIN
FABRIC
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1050
Table 4.7. 5: V-bed knitting m/c

SL/
NO.
M/C TYPE
MC/
DIA
Flat Knit
Flat Knit
Total
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER
QT
Y
BRAND
ORIGIN
14
Snima Seiki
14
12
Stoll
FABRIC
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
Japan
Collar/Cuff
1400
Lycra Attachment
Germany
Collar/Cuff
700
Lycra Attachment
2100
35 | P a g e
REMARKS
Knitting Section
4.9.Quality Standard:
N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body
& rib fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are
given against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by
inspection at N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
Table 4.8: four point system for knit fabric

Four Point Grading System
Size Of Defects
Penalty
3 inches or less
1 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point

Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch
4 point
Any Hole
4 Point
Typical knitting calculations:

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:
Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch.
Total needles: Machine diameter Gauge3.416
Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter3
Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter2
Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm
For single jersey fabric:
Yarn Count
4320
Fabric Gsm
For Double jersey fabric:

36 | P a g e
Knitting Section
Yarn Count
6000
Fabric Gsm
Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count:
For Single Jersey fabric:
Stitch Length
590 Ks
Yarn Count Finished Gsm
Where,
For s/j, Ks=19.6
For 1x1 rib, Ks=26
For Interlock, Ks=38
Fabric Thickness:
Fabric thickness = 4D
Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state)
Tightness Factor:
Tightness Factor
Tex
, here stitch length is in mm
Stitch Length
Production per shift:

Pr oduction per shift
D G S .L F RPM efficiency 60 8
1000 840 yarn count ( Ne) 36 2.2028
Kg
Where,
D= Machine dia
G= Machine gauge
S.L.=Stitch length
F= No. of feeder
4.10.
Remarks:
knitting section is equipped with a large number of machines. But some modern knitting
machine should purchased including engineering stripe machine with Lycra attachment
facility.
37 | P a g e
Lab Section
5 CHAPTER : BATCH SECTION
38 | P a g e
Lab Section
5.1. Batching:
Primarily batching is done by batching section which is supervised by dyeing manager.
The main function of batching section is to prepare the batch for dyeing according to
machine capacity, order and emergency. This section receive the grey fabric from knitting
section and make batch according to order for particular shade. Then this batch delivers to
dyeing section for dyeing.
Function or purpose of Batch section:
To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.
Turn the gray fabric if require.
Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)
Machine capacity.
Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)
Emergency order.
Fabric construction (Single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep record.
Proper Batching Criteria:

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.
To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.
To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.
5.2.Calculations related to batch section:
Grams per linear meter
Meters Per Chember
Dia (cm) GSM

100
kg per Chamber 1000

Grms per linear meter
Now, when a gram per linear meter is low then meters per chamber will be more. Thus,
fabric loading should be reduced to avoid jamming in the winch. In this case 80-85% fabric
39 | P a g e
Lab Section
loading is given. But when gram per linear meter is more then rope length will reduce and
in this case up to 90% fabric loading can be given.
Preparing the fabric ropes
The fabric ropes for each chamber should be prepared in batching section. The fabric rolls
are correctly sewn together. This will minimize the time required to load the machine, and
avoid the risk of rope entanglement.
Fabric loading in the m/c will vary with the type of fabric and the width of the fabric and
the amount is not less than 50% of the machine nominal load.
5.3.Calculating the chamber loading
In the following table are listed general recommendations covering rope cycle times and
speeds for a wide range of fabrics:
Fabric
Rope cycle times in minutes
Rope circulation speed m/min

Knit fabric
PES unfixed
250
PES heat set
1-1.5
200
PC
1-2
250
Co - reactive
2-3
225-275
For calculation the following diagram shows the weight per running metre of a fabric in
grams, and the corresponding rope weight and length. e.g. a fabric of 200 gm/running
metrewith rope length of 800 metres will have a dry weight of 160 kg.
40 | P a g e
Lab Section
Kg
360
340
320
300
200g
240
225g
250g
275g
300g
350g
400g
550g
260
500g
280
220
175g
200
150g
180
125g
160
140
100g
120
100
80
Grms/running meter
60
40
20
200
400
600
Rope length(m)
800
1000
0
1200
41 | P a g e
Lab Section
Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams per
running meter of fabric
Turn over time
The following diagram shows the relationship between winch speed and rope length
necessary to reach a required turn over time.
m/min
600
400
3
5
300
200
Winch speed m/min
500
100
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
Rope length(m)
Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed
It is also possible to reverse the procedure and calculate the maximum rope length with a
fabric of a particular weight, having determined the winch speed and circulation time.
For example: 100% Cotton, Reactive dyeing:
Circulation time
= 3 minutes
Winch speed
= 250 m/min
Rope length
= 3 mins x 250 m
42 | P a g e
Lab Section
= 750 meters
If the rope is shorter, so that the same rope circulation time and nozzle contacts are
maintained during the cycle, the winch speed should be reduced.
Rope length
690 m
Circulation time
3 mins = 230 m/min (winch speed)
Calculation of the the rope length

If Rope weight is
105 kg
(weightper running metre) 200 kg/rm
= 525 m (rope length)
Calculation of the winch speed

If Rope length is
540 m
Cycle time
3 mins
Then Winch speed = 180 m/min

Number of nozzle passages
(Process time)
360 mins
(Cycle time)
3 mins
= 120 (nozzle passages)
5.4.Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing
manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency
Machines in Batch section:
Fabric turning m/c:
Machine Name
Brand Name
Origin
M/c Speed
Model
Company
: Air turning m/c

: Taida
: China
: 300-500m/min
: DF 200
: Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd.
43 | P a g e
Lab Section
5.5.Process flow chart of Batch preparation:

Receive the order sheet from in-charge
Make the batch card on the priority of shipment date
Take the Batch card which order have to deliver first
Check the availability of the fabric

Take require quantity of body fabric from the store
Take collar/cuff as per size and keep the total weight
Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally ensuring equal

length.
Turn off the fabric (if necessary)
Stitch the fabric
Write down weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch card
Write the total weight in the batch card

Fill up the Production report form
Deliver the Fabric to dyeing section
44 | P a g e
Lab Section
Precautions during batch making

Check whether count variation is occured or not
Check whether lot variation is occured or not
Check whether rib fabric is included or not
Be sure about the packing instruction , whether it is
Solid color solid size
Solid color assorted size
Assorted color assorted size
Assorted color solid size
45 | P a g e
Lab Section
6 CHAPTER : LAB SECTION
46 | P a g e
Lab Section
6.1. Lab dip:

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of DATA COLOR
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of
the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an
important task before bulk production.
Objective of Lab dip:

The main objectives in lab are as follows:
To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)
Table 6-1: Amount salt and soda used depending on the shade %
Shade %
Salt (g/l)
Soda (g/l)
0.001-0.01
15
0.01-0.1
20
0.1-0.5
30
0.5-1.0
40
10
1.0-1.5
50
12
1.5-2
60
15
2-3
70
18
3 to above
80
20
47 | P a g e
Lab Section
6.2.Instrumental Color matching Process:

Spectrophotometer flow Chart
Triangle shade
Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM

Or calculated by smart shade library
Input database
History of the lab
Initial recipe
Laboratory dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to match
Recipe correction
Not matched
OK
Production dyeing
Production correction
Use L*, a*, b* to match
Not matched
OK
Finished
48 | P a g e
Lab Section
6.3. Dyes and chemicals measuring formula for laboratory:

The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow
Fabric weight x Shade %

Amount of dye soln (ml) = ----------------------------------------------Concentration of stock dye soln %
Example
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes] then,
5x2
Amount of dye soln (ml) = ----------- = 20ml.
0.5
The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow
Fabric wt. x M: L x g/l

Amount of chemical soln (ml) = -------------------------------------1000 x Conc. of stock soln %
Example
In recipe, The Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 10
[If taken 25 % stock soln. of salt] then,
5 x 10 x 20
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------- = 4 ml
1000 x 0.25
49 | P a g e
Lab Section
6.4. Stock solution preparation:
SHADE %
STOCK SOLUTION %
0.0001-0.009
0.1
0.10-0.99
0.5
1-1.99
2-3.99
4 ( or above)
6.5.Procedure of lab dip formation:

A. For 100% cotton fabric:
Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken.

Calculate the recipe.
Make solution of required dyes and chemicals.
Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to
the pot by digital pipette.(M:L=1:7)
Wet the fabric with water.
Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong.
Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder.
Start the program for dyeing.
The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.
Program 1: For light shade

Fixed temp = 60
Time
= 60 min.
Program 2: For dark shade

Fixed temp = 80
Circulation Time = 60 min.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
Acid wash for neutralization with 1g/l acetic acid.
Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950C
Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.
50 | P a g e
Lab Section
B. For cotton/ blend fabric (all in one method):

Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken.
Calculate the recipe for polyester part. 1 to April 1
Make solution of required dyes and chemicals.
Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate are taken to the pot by digital pipette.
Wet the fabric with water.
Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong.
Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder.
Start the program for dyeing.
The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 min. at 1300C
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic & detergent for 20 min at 700C
Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,
Dye the cotton part with cotton dyeing procedure.
6.6.Self shade formation:
Dyeing lab in-charge will produce self shade for new dyes stored in the dye store. Self
shade should be ok with the previous self shade of the dye or if any deviation is obtained
then necessary steps should be taken.
Development of self shade:
Reactive Black B:
0.5%,30/8
1%,40/10
1.5%,40/1
0
3.5%,60/1
5
4%,70/18
4.5%,80/2
0
2%,50/12
5%,80/20
2.5%,50/1
2
3%,60/15
6%,80/20
51 | P a g e
Lab Section
Reactive Yellow 4GL:
0.1%,20/6
0.5%,30/8
0.8%,30/8
2%,60/15
0.1%,20/6
0.5%,30/8
0.8%,38/8
Ciba Red FNR:
0.05%,0/6
3.5%,60/1
5
2%,60/15
5%,80/20
3.5%,60/1
5
Reactive Yellow RR:
0.05%,20/6
0.1%,20/6
0.5% 20/6
0.8%, 30/8
1%,48/10
0.8%,20/6
2%,60/15
Reactive Blue:
0.5%, 30/8
2%, 60/15
3.5%,60/1
5
3.5%, 68/15
52 | P a g e
Lab Section
Ciba Orange FNK:
0.05%,20/6
0.1%, 20/6
0.25%,30/8
0.5%,30/8
2%, 50/12
3%, 80/20
4%, 80/20
5.5%, 80/20
3.5%,80/20
5.0%,80/20
1%,40/10
1.5%,40/10
Ciba Yellow FN2R:
1.0%,30/8
2.5%,80/20
Ciba Red FNR:
0.1%,30/8
0.5%,30/8
1%,30/8
2.5%,80/20
3.5%,80/20
5%,80/20
53 | P a g e
Lab Section
Dimarine Scarlet HF3G:
0.005%, 20/6
0.01%,30/6
1%, 40/10
2%, 40/10
0.05%,20/6
3.5%,70/15
0.1%,20/6
5%, 80/20
0.5%,30/8
0.8%,30/8
5.5%,80/20
Dimarine Turquoise CIB:
0.005%, 20/6
0.01%,20/6
0.05%,20/6
0.1% 20/6
1%, 40/10
2%, 60/15
3.5%,60/15
5%,60/15
0.5%,30/8
0.8%,30/8
54 | P a g e
Lab Section
Reactive Super Black RGB:
0.1 %, 20/6
0.5 %, 38/8
1%, 40/10
1.5%, 48/10
2.5%, 58/12
3.5%, 60/15
4%, 78/18
4.5%, 80/20
5%, 80/20
5.5%, 80/20
7%, 80/20
8.5%, 80/20
Sola Blue RSPL:
0.005%,20/6
1%,40/10
0.01%,20/6
0.05%,20/6
0.1%,20/6
2%,60/15
3.5%,60/15
4%,70/18
0.5%,30/8
0.8%,30/8
55 | P a g e
Lab Section
6.7.Machine Specification of Dyeing Lab:
Machine No
: 01
Machine No
: 02
Machine Name
: Power drum
Manufacturer
: Sharp
Manufacturer
: Samsung
Country of origin
: Japan
Machine type : Fully automatic washing Machine type : Washing machine

machine
Machine No
: 03
Machine No
Machine Name
(Polyester dye)
:Labdyeing
Manufacturer
machine Machine Name
: 04
:Electrolux washcotar
Model
: FOM71MP-lab
: Irdyer
Function
(Shrinkage)
:Dimensional stability
Machine No
: 05
Machine No
: 06
Machine Name
: Rota wash
Function
wash
Machine No
: 07
Machine Name
stability to wash
Manufacturer
: LG
Machine No
: 09
Machine Name
light
: Color fastness to Machine Name
Manufacturer
Machine No
colorfastness
Machine Name
to (Cotton dye)
Manufacturer
Machine No
Dimensional Machine Name
: Lab dyeing machine

: IRDYER
: 08
: Tumble dryer
Manufacturer
: Indesit
Machine No
: 10
: ICI pilling tester
Manufacturer
: SDL international
: SDL international
Country of origin
: England
: 11
Machine Name
: 12
56 | P a g e
Lab Section
Machine Name
: Gray Scale
Machine Name
: Incubator
Manufacturer
: SDL international
Manufacturer
: SDL international
Country of origin
: England
Function
water
Machine No
: 13
Machine No
: 14
Machine Name
: Crockmeter
Machine Name
: Spectrophotometer
Manufacturer
Co. Ltd.
: James H. Heal & Brand
Country of origin
: England
Machine No
: 15
Machine Name
Manufacturer
Colorfastness
: Color-eye 7000A
Manufacturer
: SDL international
Country of origin
: England
: Light box
Machine No
: 16
: Verivide (CAC 120)
Machine Name
machine
to
Overlock
sewing
57 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7 CHAPTER : DYEING SECTION
58 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.1.Layout of Dyeing Department
Open
Squeezer
Bruckner Stenter
Open
Compactor
Tube
Compactor
Relax Dryer
Back
sewing
m/c
Tumble
Dryer
FTM
Tumble
Dryer
FTM
Tumble
Dryer
Tube
squeezer
Office Room
11
10
BW
(1st floor)
Tumble
Dryer
10
kg
Dyeing lab
BWM
700
kg
7
525
kg
1400
kg
350
kg
CM
C
12
1050
50
kg
50
kg
1400 kg
175
kg
kg
1 to 12- Dilmenler Dyeing M/c (Except 10 & 11)
BWM Bangla Washing M/c
Hydro Extractor M/c
10-bangla Dyeing m/c, 30 kg capacity

11-bangla Dyeing m/c, 50 kg capacity
CMC- Color Matching Cabinet

59 | P a g e
FTM-Fabric Turning M/c
Fabric Inspection M/c
Dyeing Section
7.2.Orgn gram of Dyeing Department:

Chairman
Managing Director
General Manager
Operation
Manager Dyeing
Manager
Finishing InCharge
Assistant
Manager QA
Assistant
Manager R&D
QA In-Charge
Officer R&D
Dyeing
Production
Officer
Sr. Production
Supervisor
Quality
Supervisor
Worker
Worker
Dyeing
Asst. Manager
Officer/In-Charge
Worker
Controller
Production
Officer
A.P.O
Supervisor &
Worker
60 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.3.Textile Dyeing:
Dyeing is a coloration process of textile which is invariable carried out in an aqueous
medium.
In the other hand, dyeing can be define as a process by which a yarn, fabric, garments and
any other materials that come to contact of dye by presence of auxiliaries that create the
condition of dyeing environment
Table 7. 1Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:
Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers
01
Acid dyes
Wool, silk and Nylon
02
Basic dyes
Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute
03
Direct dyes
Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk
04
Azoic dyes
Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
05
Vat dyes
06
Sulpher dyers
07
Reactive dyes
Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.
08
Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate

Rayon.
Cotton:
The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units.
The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OH
groups. As a result
Cotton is a natural Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5)n.
Figure 7.1: Cellulose, the polymer of cotton

61 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Chemical Composition of Cotton:

Table 7. 2: Chemical composition of raw cotton:
Component
Main location
Relative amount
Cellulose
Secondary wall
86.8 %
Oil and Wax
Cuticle
0.70 %
Pectins
Primary cell wall 1.0 %
Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %

Protein
Lumen
1.2 %
Salts
Lumen
1.0 %
Water
Whole
6.8 %
Others
2.0 %
7.4. Reactive dye:

Reactive dyes are so called because their molecules react chemically with the fibre polymers
of some fibres to form a covalent bond between the dye molecule and fibre polymer. The
fibre most readily coloured with reactive dyes are the man-made and natural cellulose fibres,
synthetic nylon, and natural protein fibres.
History: In 1955, Rattee and Stephen, working for ICI in England, developed a procedure for
dyeing cotton with fiber-reactive dyes containing dichlorotriazine groups. They established
that dyeing cotton with these dyes under mild alkaline conditions resulted in a reactive
chlorine atom on the triazine ring being substituted by an oxygen atom from a cellulose
hydroxyl group This is shown below:
Cell OH HO Cell O H 2O
Cell O Dye Cl Cell O Dye Cl
Where CellOH is the cellulose with a reactive hydroxyl group, DyeCl- is the dye with its
reactive chlorine atom, and CellODye the dye linked to the cellulose by a covalent bond.
The role of the alkali is to cause acidic dissociation of some of the hydroxyl groups in the
cellulose, and it is the cellulosate ion (CellO-) that reacts with the dye.
62 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Classification of Reactive dyes on the basis of functional group

Mono-functional
Multi-functional
Bi-functional
Homo-bifunctional
Hetero-bifunctional
Tri-functional
Tetra-functional
Penta- functional
Bi-and poly-functional reactive dyes can be divided into four groups. If the two reactive
groups in the dyestuff molecule are the same, they are known as homobifunctional dyes, and
if they are different, they are known as heterobifunctional types.
Figure 7.2: Bifunctional reactive dye (Remazol Black B, DyStar)
Dyeing machine:
The machine which is used to dyeing or coloring of materials like yarn, fabric, garments or
any other materials is called dyeing machine.
63 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.5.Winch Dyeing Machine:
The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,
bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes. The machine contains a length of
fabric with the ends sewn together, which is compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope
passes from the dye bath over two elevated reels and then falls back into the bath. The first
roller is free-running (jockey or fly roller). The second (winch reel) is driven and controls the
rate of rope transport and the extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind
the winch. Both reels extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabric
ropes running side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by friction and its own
weight. Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.
Figure 7. 3: Dilmenlar Winch Dyeing m/c

7.6.Principle of winch dyeing machine
The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or
ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length, which are mostly
immersed in the liquor in the bath.
The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dye bath. At
the front of the machine, above the top of the dye liquor, is a smaller reel, which is
called jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remains freewheeling along with fabric rope.
At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye
bath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion.
From the dropped location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winch
wheel.
64 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M: L as compared

with other dyeing machines.
The process is conducted with very little tension.
The total dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines.
Table 7. 3: Production Parameters :

Temp(C)
pH
Time min
M:L
ratio
98
10-11
30
1:8
55
4.5-5
30
1:8
60
10-11
60
1:8
60
11-12
60
1:8
White Shade
98
10.5-11.5
30
1:8
Turquish color dyeing
80-90
11-12
60
1:8
Polyester dyeing
130
4-4.5
45
1:8
Process
Scouring Bleaching
Enzyme Wash
Reactive Dyeing
(Light Shade)
Reactive Dyeing
(Dark Shade)
7.7.Specification of Dyeing Machine used in N.A.Z Bangladesh LTD:

Machine No # 01
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
50 kg
No of nozzle
01
Website
www.dilmenler.com.tr
Machine No # 02
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
65 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Capacity
50 kg
No of nozzle
01
Website
Machine No # 03
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
1050 kg
No of nozzle
06
Website
Machine No # 04
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
175 kg
No of nozzle
02
Website
Machine No # 05
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
350 kg
No of nozzle
02
Website
Machine No # 06
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
66 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Capacity
1400 kg
No of nozzle
08
Website
Machine No # 07
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
525 kg
No of nozzle
03
Website
Machine No # 08
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
700 kg
No of nozzle
03
Website
Machine No # 09
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
10 kg
No of nozzle
01
Website
Machine No # 10
Capacity
30 kg
67 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Machine No # 11
Capacity
70 kg
Machine No # 12
Manufacturer
Dilmenler
Capacity
1400 kg
No of nozzle
08
Website
Calculation realted to dyeing floor:

Winch speed
Cycle Time
39.37 Machine Capacity 1000

GSM fabric width no. of Nozzle Cycle Timt
39.37 Machine Capacity 10000

Fabric GSM Fabric width No. of Nozzle Winch speed
Re quired Dye(kg ) Shade% Fabric weight in Kg
Re quired Chemicals
g / l required Total liquor

1000
68 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
1 2
Chemic
al
Dosing
Tank
Dye
Dosin
g
Tank
Water
Inlet
INLETINL
1-Minimum fabric tension with
ET
low level main Winch
10
2-Adjustable patented nozzle

system
3-Horizontal type cylindrical
filter with large filtering
surface
11
12
6
5
13
4-Teflon lined J-BOX bottom

5-J-BOX system which provide
non-tangle even for sensitive
fabric
6-Large inspection port with
platform with three combined
security system
7-Halogen inner lighting
14
3
2
9-Rapid
system
Figure 7. 4: Cross sectional view of Dilmenler Dyeing m/c
8-Elliptical fabric pipe
69 | P a g e
machine
cleaning
10-HAT-PRO 100% hot water

preparation tank
11-Proportional
cooling valves
heating
&
12-Heat
exchanger
with
70C/min heating gradient
Dyeing Section
Steam Inlet
Cold Soft Water
Hot Soft Water
Inlet
Condensate Return Inlet
Line
Cooling Water
Return Line
8
Heat Exchanger
DN 80
DN 80
DN 50
DN 80
DN 125
DN 125
DMS
DMS
140 140
DN
DN8
80
0
DN 80
DMS
DMS
140
140
DN 80
DN 125
Addition
Tank
(Dye)
Addition
Tank
(Auxiliaries)
DN 20
DN 25
Figure 7. 5: Different valves used in Dilmenler winch Dyeing m/c

70 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Controlling Points:
Air min 6 bar to max 7 bar
Steam supply min 6 bar to max 8 bar
Water supply min 2 bar to max 5 bar
Valve fig.
Description
Steam valve
Steam valve
Swing check valve
Strainer
Manual valve
Flow scope
Pressure Gauge
muff and dummy plug
7.8. Important parts of Dilmenler Winch Dyeing m/c:

Winch:
Winch is an important part of dyeing machine and used for moving the fabric through the
whole dyeing machine. Winch is rotated with the help of motor. Fabric is passed over the
winch and fabric dwell time depends on the winch speed. Winch speed will depend on the
rope length and gsm of the fabric to be dyed. There is opening on the machine for winch to
remove tangled fabric from winch. No. of nozzle per winch is normally 1 or 2 and total no. of
winch per machine will depend on machine capacity.
Figure 7.6: winch

71 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Addition Motor:
Addition motor is used to dissolve salt, soda dye and other chemicals. This motor ensures
uniform dispersion of chemicals. This motor is used in the dosing tank and tiere is an agitator
connected to the motor for addition.
Dosing tank:
Dosing tank is used for the application of dyes and chemicals to the dye bath in solution
form. Steam line is connected to the dosing tank. This tank ensures dissolved chemicals and
dyes to the dyeing machine to ensure fault free dyeing.
Nozzle:
Nozzle is the part of winch dyeing machine where dye pick up of the fabric is maximum.
After the winch the fabric is passed through the nozzle. Main motor is connected to the
nozzle and continuously circulate dyeing liquor to the machine via nozzle. Fabric passed with
the pressure of water and used for controlling the speed of dye liquor. There is opening in the
nozzle which can be controlled as required.
Heat Exchanger:
Heat exchanger is used for heating and cooling the dye bath liquor. Heat exchange process is
achieved by passing steam or water through the coiled pipe line present in the heat exchanger.
When heat is increased then steam valve is opened and passed through the coiled pipe line
and dyeing liquor is passed through the heat exchanger. During the passage, heat increase of
dyeing liquor. For reducing heat, water valve will opened and heat will reduce.
J-Box:
J-box of the machine is where fabric will stored after falling from the nozzle. J-shape helps
the smooth passage of fabric. This box contains a deposition tube line attached to the fabric
guide. This box is perforated and ensures easy circulation of dyeing liquor to the machine.
Main motor:
Centrifugal pump is used for circulating the liquor through the dyeing machine. Its capacity
will depend on the capacity of the machine.
Valves:
Different types of valves are used in dyeing machine. Such as steam valve, water valve,
pneumatic valve etc.
72 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Viewing light:
Viewing light is given in the dyeing machine to see how the dyeing of the fabric is advancing
in the dyeing machine from outside of the dyeing machine as it is impossible to look into the
dyeing machine due to high steam temperature.
Filter Tube:
Filter tube is used inside the circulating line and drain line through which dyeing liquor is
passed to filter impurities. If the filter is jammed then removed from line and cleaned.
Drain line:
Drain line is used for extracting the liquor out of the dyeing automatically.
7.9.Machine Setup On The Basis Of Fabric Type & GSM
Fabric Type
Single Jersey
Polo Pique, Back Pique

& Bubble Knit
Interlock
GSM
Pump Speed %
Reel Speed(MPM)
Up to 140
80
250
140 180
85
230
180 above
90
210
Up to 160
85
280
160 200
90
260
220 above
90
240
Up to 180
85
260
180 220
90
240
220 above
90
220
73 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.10. Stock Solution for Production:
S.L no.
SHADE %
SALT
SODA
WATER
1:8
0.0001-0.01
0.01-0.08
10
0.08-0.15
12
0.15-0.8
15
0.8-1.5
18
1.5-2
20
10
2-2.5
30
13
2.5-3
40
15
3-3.5
50
16
10
3.5-4
60
18
11
4-4.5
70
20
12
4.5 and over
80
20
1:7
1:6
7.11. Water level for different dyeing m/c on the basis of shade %:
Machine No
Light Shade
Medium Shade
Deep Shade
0.49 %
0.5 1.99 %
2.0 %
DM 01
4200 Litter
3800 Litter
3600 Litter
DM 02
3000 Litter
2800 Litter
2600 Litter
DM 03
3000 Litter
2800 Litter
2600 Litter
74 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
DM 04
1900 Litter
1750 Litter
1600 Litter
DM 05
6200 Litter
5800 Litter
5600 Litter
DM 06
4200 Litter
3800 Litter
3600 Litter
DM 07
3200 Litter
3000 Litter
2800 Litter
SM 01
180 Litter
150 Litter
120 Litter
SM 02
300 Litter
250 Litter
230 Litter
SM 03
180 Litter
150 Litter
120 Litter
SM 04
160 Litter
140 Litter
120 Litter
SM 05
160 Litter
140 Litter
120 Litter
SM 06
160 Litter
140 Litter
120 Litter
7.12. Amount of Salt & Alkali on the basis of Shade%
Shade % ( owf )
Glauber salt ( g/l )
Soda ash ( g/l )
0.0010 0.2
20
0.2 1
40
10
1 2.5
60
15
2.5 4
70
20
48
80
20
Above 8
100
20
75 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.13. Raw Material Used for Dyeing:

Gray fabrics
Dyes
Chemicals
Table 7.4: Dyes, Chemicals & Cuxiliaries Use in N.A.Z:

Basic Chemicals
Suppliers name
Country of Origine
Basic acitic acid
SINTEX
CHEM.PTV.LTD
& China
Basic common salt
Osman Enterprise
Local
Basic gluber salt chemical
SINTEX
CHEM.PTV.LTD
& China
Basic caustic soda
SINTEX
CHEM.PTV.LTD
& China
Basic hydrogen per oxide
ASM CHEMICALS
Basic soda ash light
SINTEX
CHEM.PTV.LTD
Bangladesh
& China
Auxiliaries
Peroxide killer geizyme OEM
SM COLOR CHEM
USA
Peroxide tesbilizerSR/Stopa-52 chemical
SM COLOR CHEM
USA
Polyester leveling Melevel -lpf
MATEX
LTD
Sequestering austol
AUSTEX
SPAIN
Soaping asugal-ALBI
AUSTEX
SPAIN
Wetting agent proder-SCPC/LF
AUSTEX
SPAIN
White softener gensoft
AUSTEX
SPAIN
Fixing ecofix DR/SR
Ecochem/AUTEX
Sri-lanka
Leveling drimegen E2R/ Texotech
FORTUNE TOP INC
Taiwan
Jintex ECO GD CONE
FORTUNE TOP INC
Taiwan
Gintex ECO GS CONE
FORTUNE TOP INC
Taiwan
Genifoam NS
FORTUNE TOP INC
Taiwan
Brightener Leuco phor BSB
Clariant
INDONESEIA
Brightener sun white
SUN RISE CHEM.
Taiwan
BANGLADESH Bangladesh
Anticrease-Pac(8460)
Special Chemicals
Enzyme producto _EAPS-A/Genincor- GENENCOR

Bf-1600/3500
GENENCOR
Dyebath Enzyme Techzymr-p 1600
Singapore
Singapore
76 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
FORTUNE TOP INC
Taiwan
Alif Chemicals
China
Ciba blue FNR Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba brill Blue FNG FyesFGFN
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba red FN3G Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba red FNR Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba red WB Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Navy SG
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Red C2BL
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Navy WB
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba yellow CRG Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba yellow S3R
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba yellow H2G
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Navy FNB
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Yellow F4G Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Yellow DN2R Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Orange FNR Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Ciba Orange W3R Dyes
Swiss color
Switzerland
Dianix black CCR Dyes
DyStar
Switzerland
Dianix Blue SSB Dyes
DyStar
Switzerland
Dianix Navy CC Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Dianix Yellow SEG Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Drimarine Blue HFRL Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine BlueCLBRDyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Red CL5B Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Red RH3b Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Scariate HF3G Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Tarquise CLB Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Yellow CL2R Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Drimarine Yellow HFR Dyes
Clariant
China/Pakistan
Reactive G. Yellow 3RS/MERL
Kiri Dyes & Chemicals
INDIA
Reactive black B Dyes /AB/5
INDIA
Reactive Red ME4BL Dyes
INDIA
Reactive Yellow H4GL Dyes
INDIA
Reactive Super black G Dyes/AG
INDIA
Reactobond yellow HW Dyes/AEY
INDIA
Silicon softener Gensoft-SA 852

Others
Others Sodium Hydrose Chemicals
Dyes
77 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Reactobond Red Hw Dyes
INDIA
Reactive Navy WB
INDIA
Reattofex orange ME2RL
INDIA
Remazol Navy RGB Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Remazol Red RGB Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Remazol Blue RSPL Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Remazol RED RR Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Remazol Blue RR Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Remazol Yellow RR Dyes
DyStar
Singapore
Synozol Black DR
Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol Red HF 6BN
Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol Yellow H F2GR
Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol brilliant blue KRL
Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Solacion red HE
Solarfine Chemicals
China
Reactive Turkish Blue
INDIA
7.14. Amount of Salt & Alkali (mixed) on the basis of Shade%
Shade% (owf)
Glauber salt (g/l)
Soda ash (g/l)
Caustic (g/l)
Red 4
80
1.2
Navy 4
80
1.2
Black 4
100
1.2
78 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.15.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Pink color

Fabric
: Single Jersey
Quantity
: 1310 kg
GSM
: 180
M: L=1:7 (During Pretreatment)
Color
: Pink
Water
1.8 (During Dyeing)

9200 lit (Pretreatment)
10500 lit (During Dyeing)
Recipe:
No.
1.
Commercial name of Dyes & Chemicals

Pretreatment:
Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF
Amount
(g/l or %)
Total amount
0.5
4.48 kg
2.
Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A)
0.1
896gm
Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52
0.4
3.584kg
Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460)
0.8
7.360 kg
Caustic soda
3.0
27.6 kg
2.75
25.3 kg
H2O2
Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC
0.5
4.6 kg
Acetic Acid
1.0
9.2 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:

9
Acetic Acid
0.2
2.1 kg
10
0.2
2.1 kg
11
12
Leveling Drimegen E2R/Secho IND/Jinleve
0.8
1.0
8.4 kg
10.50 kg
Dyeing
13
Rea yellow HW
0.01%
0.131 kg
14
Rea. Orange-MEZRL
0.07%
0.917 kg
15
Syno. Red-HF6BN
0.80%
10.48 kg
16
17
Salt
Soda ash
30
8
314.4 kg
83.84 kg
After treatment:
18
Acetic Acid
1.0
9.2 kg
19
Soaping Asugal-ALBI
0.6
5.520 kg
20
Colour Softener Gensoft-100/150/ASUMIN B
0.7%
9.170 kg
79 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment:
Fabric loading in the machine and magnet is attached to the fabric rope to ensure cutting of
the fabric from the specific place.
Filling the bath with the required water & run the fabric for 10 min
Raise the temp. to 50C @1.5C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2
stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 500 C.
Raise temp. to 60C @1.5C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min
Raise temp. to 70C @1.5C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.
Raise temp. to 105C @1.5C/min and run the process for 40 min.
Cooling the bath @1.5C/min and drain at 80C and then drain
Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95C for 10 min. then drain the
bath and normal wash.
Apply peroxide killer and run at 70 C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.
Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55C and run
for 40 min
Raise temp. to 80C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot
Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times
80 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Dyeing:
Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5
Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.

of total Salt dosing at 45C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Rest Salt dosing at 45C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Dye linear dosing at 45C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.
If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 450 C.
After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 600 C
Sample checked after 10, 30, 40 min & after 10 min B.D. sample is checked
Then cooling the bath & rinse for 10 min & drain the bath
After-treatment:
Fill the bath and raise temp. to 45C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.
Fill the bath & apply soaping agent. Raise temp. to 95C. Run 10 min and then drain
Fill the bath and raise temperature to 40C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min
& sample is checked.
Unload the fabric from machine.
81 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
110
100
H2O2 killer
0.5 g/l
80
B
A
60
3 4 5 6
1
Cooling
70
7
GG
Enzyme hot
wash
90
Temperature(0C )
Figure 7. 7: Dyeing Curve
1050Cx4
0
Hot
Soda
E Salt
50
Drain
40
30
wash
L
Fabric run 10
Drain
ash
Dye
s
10 10 40
20
F
20
50
Rinse
10
Drain
Dyeing
Pre-treatment
Drain
Drain
Drain &
Unload
After-treatment
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
500
550
Time (min)
L
Wetting agent=0.5g/l
Sequestering agent=o.1g/l
H2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/l
Ant creasing agent=0.8g/l
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l
Sequestering agent 0.1g/l
A=Caustic 3g/l
B=H2O2 2.75g/l
Ant-creasing agent 0.8g/l

Leveling agent 1g/l
C=A.A. 1g/lx10
D=Enzyme 0.3g/l
82 | P a g e
F= Acetic acid 1g/l

G=soaping agent0.6g/l
H= softener 7%
1-8=
sample
taken for shade
development
Dyeing Section
Shade development :
After 20 of color
dosing (Salt sample)
After 10 min of soda

dosing (color steam
sample)
600C x 40 min or
BD sample
After Acid
600aC x 10 min
After Soaping
600C x 30 min
After Softener
Target Swatch
Note:
When shade of one stage is ok then go for next stage (usually at 600C).
But, when color is already close to target shade at 600C after 10 min then, temp raise
to 700C and run for 10 min. Another shade will be checked after 10 min at 700C and if
shade is ok then bath drop.
When shade is light then color is added to the dye bath and run until required shade is
obtained.
In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.
Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shade
soaping decision will be taken.
83 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.16. Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Black color
Fabric
: 1x1 Rib
Quantity
: 1000 kg
GSM
: 180
M: L -
1:7 (During Pretreatment)

1.8 (During Dyeing)
Color
: 09A Black Water -
7000 lit (Pretreatment)

Recipe:
No.
1.
2.

Pretreatment:
Jin Tex GD Conc.
Jin Tex ECO GS CONE (S.A)
Amount
(g/l or %)
Total amount
1.0
7 kg
0.2
1.40 kg
Bio-polish
3
Acetic Acid
1.0
7.0 kg
Techzyme-P-1600
0.7 %
7.0 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:

5
Acetic Acid
0.2
2.1 kg
0.2
2.1 kg
0.8
8.4 kg
1.0
10.50 kg
Dyeing
9
R. B. yellow HW
0.58%
5.8 kg
10
R.B. Red HW
1.04%
8 kg
11
Rea. Black B
10.7%
107 kg
12
Salt
80
640 kg
13
Soda ash
20
210 kg
14
Caustic
1 g/l
8 kg
After treatment:
15
Acetic Acid
1.0
9.2 kg
16
Soaping Asugal-ALBI
0.6
4.20 kg
17
0.7%
7.0 kg
84 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment & Dyeing:
Inject Jin Tex GD &Jin Tex GS to the dye bath and raise the temp to 95C and run for 30 min
Cooling the machine & drain the bath

Raise temp. to 60C @1.5C/min process & apply acetic acid & run 20 min
Then drain the bath and check pH and set pH to 5
Apply dye bath enzyme at 40C and raise temp. to 55C and run 30 min.
Cooling the bath & at 45C & and inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run
10 min.
Salt dosing at 45C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Dye linear dosing at 45C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.
If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45C.

After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60C
85 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
After treatment:
Fill the bath and raise temp. to 45C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.
Fill the bath and raise temp. to 40C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &
sample is checked.
86 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 8: DyeingCurve For Black color
110
7
FG
95Cx30
100
Cooling
Temperature ( C )
70
60
20 min
80
3
1
60C
Acetic Acid 1g/l
90
50
55Cx3
0
B
40
Drai
n
30
Fabric run 10
50
Drain
Salt
40
20
200
250
50
Rinse
10
Drain
Dyeing
150
Pre-treatment
100
Soda
ash
Dyes
10 10
20
350
300
Drain
400
Drain
Drain &
Unload
450
Time (min)
A
Jin Tex GD conc. 2g/l

Jin Tex GS conc. 0.2 g/l
B=Acetic Acid 0.4g/l

C=Texzyme-pl600 0.3g/l
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l

Leveling agent 1g/l
E= Acetic acid 1g/l

F= soaping agent0.6g/l
G= softener 7%
87 | P a g e
1-8= sample taken

for
shade
development
500
Dyeing Section
Shade development process:
After 20 of color
dosing (Salt sample)
After 10 min of soda

dosing (color steam
60 C x 40 min or
BD sample
60 C x 10 min
60 C x 30 min
sample)
After Soaping
After Acid
After Softener
Target Swatch
88 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
7.17.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: for Black color

Fabric
: 1x1 Rib
Quantity
: 1000 kg
GSM
: 180
M: L -1:7 (During Pretreatment) & 1.8 (During Dyeing)
Color
: 09A Black
Water - 7000 lit (Pretreatment)

Recipe:
No.
Amount
(g/l or %)
Tot
al amount
Pretreatment:
1.
Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF
0.5
4.48 kg
2.
0.1
896gm
Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52
0.4
3.584kg
0.8
7.360 kg
Caustic soda
3.0
27.6 kg
H2O2
2.75
25.3 kg
Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC
0.5
4.6 kg
Acetic Acid
1.0
9.2 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:

9
Acetic Acid
0.2
2.1 kg
10
0.2
2.1 kg
11
0.8
8.4 kg
12
1.0
10.50 kg
Dyeing
13
R. Red RR
0.48%
6.288 kg
14
Rea. Turq Blue
1.80% + 18%
27.824 kg
15
Sola Blue Rspl
2.94%+ 10%
42.365 kg
16
Salt
80
840 kg
17
Soda
20
210 kg
After treatment:
18
Acetic Acid
1.0
9.2 kg
19
Soaping Asugal-ALBI
0.6
5.520 kg
20
0.7%
9.170 kg
89 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment:
Raise the temp. to 50C @ 1.5C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2
stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 50C.
Raise temp. to 60C @ 1.5C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min
Raise temp. to 70 C @ 1.5C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.
Raise temp. to 105C @ 1.5C/min and run the process for 40 min.
Cooling the bath @ 1.5C/min and drain at 80C and then drain
Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95C for 10 min. then drain the
bath and normal wash.
Apply peroxide killer and run at 70C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.
Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55C and run
for 40 min
Raise temp. to 80C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot
Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times
90 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Dyeing:
Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5
Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.
Dye linear dosing at 45C for 40 min and run 10 min.
Salt dosing at 45C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Remaining Salt dosing at 45C in10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Raise temp. to 80C and run 20 min for dye migration & then cooling to 60C.
Check sample & if ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45C.
After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60C
After treatment:
Fill the bath & raise temp. to 45C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.
Fill the bath and raise temp. to 40C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &
sample is checked.

91 | P a g e
Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 9: Dyenig Curve for Tequish color (Migration process)

110
1050Cx40
Hot
Migration
wash
Process
killer
90
60
C D
50
Drain
40
Dye
s
1040
Wash
2 3 4 5 6
Salt Salt
1/2 1/2
Fabric run 10
Rinse
10
10 10 10
10
Drain
Normal hot
wash
30
Soda
ash
Cooling
70
H2O2
800Cx20
0.5 g/l
80
Temperature(0C )
Enzyme hot
100
Drain
Drain
Dyeing
Drain &
Unload
After-treatment
5
0
100
150
200
Wetting agent=0.5g/l
Sequestering agent=o.1g/l
H2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/l
IndustrialAnt
Attachment
creasing agent=0.8g/l
250
Time (min)
300
350
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l
A=Caustic 3g/l

B=H2O2 2.75g/l
C=A.A. 1g/lx10
Leveling agent 1g/l
400
92
| P a g0.3g/l
e
D=Enzyme
450
500
F= Acetic acid 1g/l

G=soaping agent0.6g/l
H= softener 7%
550
600
1-8=
sample
taken for shade
development
Finishing Section
Shade development process:
After migration
process (Salt sample)
After 10 min of
soda dosing
60 C x 10 min
After Acid
After Soaping
60 C x 40 min or
BD sample
60 C x 30 min
After Softener
Target Swatch
Note:
Shade check will be started after cooling from migration process at 600C. Color is
normally checked with the process.
Problems can occurred during migration process (uneven shade). At that time temp.
is raised again then treat the fabric.
In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.
Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shade
soaping decision will be taken.
93 | P a g e
Finishing Section
7.18. Auxiliaries and its function
Chemical name
Function
creasing Acts as lubricant and reduce friction between machine parts and
fabric. Thus prevent crease mark formation in the fabric. Those are oil
free substance.
Anti
Agent
Sequestering
Agent
Used to remove hardness and metal ion present in dyeing liquor.

Hardness of dyeing liquor can occurred due to hardness of fabric after
pretreatment which is 35 ppm and also from salt which is 70 ppm
Leveling Agent
Leveling agent reduces the molecular size of the dye and it will slower
the penetration of dye into the fabric. As a result, uniformly dyed
fabric is obtained.
Enzyme
Enzyme is used they remove the protruding fibbers from fabric. They
can act their function with the temp. of 550C and with pH of 4.5-5.
Wetting agent
To reduce surface tension of water thus ensures easy penetrating of

chemicals and dye to the fabric.
Anti
agent
Foaming To eliminate foam during dyeing process. Foam arises from water
circulation and material which quickly by, also from auxiliaries which
can generate foam.
H2O2
Hydrogen peroxide is used for bleaching of cotton fabric and to

remove natural color.
Peroxide
Stabilizer
Peroxide stabilizer is used for slowing down the decomposition of

Hydrogen Peroxide because if decomposition of H2O2 is more than the
production of HO2- then it can lead to cellulose breakage.
Peroxide Killer
Used to remove peroxide remaining in the fabric. Otherwise the fabric

will damaged due to presence of peroxide.
Salt
Salt acts as electrolyte and increase absorption of reactive dye into

fibre. salt increase exhaustion of dyes.
94 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Soda Ash
Addition of soda ash causes dissociation of some hydroxyl group in

the cellulose and cellulosate ion begins to react with dye.
Acetic Acid
Acetic acid is used to maintain pH of the dye bath in the acidic

medium and also used for neutralization from basic medium to the
neutral nedium.
Softener
The function of softener is to soft the hand feel of the fabric and
increase the luster of the fabric.
NaOH
Caustic Soda is used for ensuring alkali media in the dye bath and also
reduce the amount of soda that is used for dark shade.
Soaping agent
The function of soaping agent is to remove unfixed dyes present in the

fabric.
7.19.Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:
Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven Pretreatment
Improper addition of color
Improper addition of chemical
Using dyes of high fixation properties
Less control of dyeing machine
Less circulation time
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment

By proper addition of color and chemicals
Correct circulation time
By controlling the dyeing machine properly
95 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Batch to batch Shade variation
Causes:
Using improper dyes and chemicals

Incorrect pretreatment procedure
Batch to batch weight variation of fabric
Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)
Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals
Remedies:
By using standard dyes and chemicals

By correcting the pretreatment procedure
By maintaining batch to batch weight variation
By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals
By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals
By following different dyeing parameter.
Dark colored spots:
Causes:
Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing

Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade
Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath
Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment
Remedies:
By ensuring proper dyeing condition

By selecting proper dyestuff
By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing
By ensuring proper after treatment
Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
Due to hardness of water

Due to faulty color addition
Due to faulty injection of alkali
Due to improper salt addition
Due to improper PH of solution
96 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Remedies:
By using proper sequestering agent

By correcting the color addition
By correcting the salt addition
By proper injection of alkali
By maintaining the PH level of the solution
Crease mark:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Due to high speed of machine running
Unequal pump pressure and reel speed
Remedies:
By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed.
By controlling the speed of the machine.
Correct opening of the fabric rope.
Roll to roll variation:
Causes:
Poor migration property of dye.

Hardness of water.
Improper dyes solubility.
Faulty machine speed.
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals
Proper machine speed.
Using soft waste.
97 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8 CHAPTER : FINISHING SECTION
98 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.1.Finishing:
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile material
under go after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance there
attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.
Objects of finishing:
The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that,
finishing can be done for achieving the following purposesa) To improve fabric attractiveness.
-By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical
brightening)
-By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)

-Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)
b) To improve service ability.
-Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)
-Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)
-Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in
tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or
tubular form. The tubular and open finishing sequences of N. A. Z. Bangladesh Ltd are
given bellow:
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
2) Mechanical finishing:
Finishing effects:
Easy - care
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Good sew ability

99 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Soft or stiff handle.
Shine or luster
8.2.Specification of Finishing Machines used in N.A.Z.:
Table 8.1: List of machine in Finishing Section

Tube Squizer
Machine Name
Tubular Squizer
Manufacturer
Bianco
Country of origin
Italy
Capacity
8000 kg
Maximum speed
80 m/min
No of Chamber
03
No of Padder
3 pair
Tube dryer
Machine Name
Tensionless dryer
Manufacturer
Lk & LH Co. Ltd
Country of origin Taiwan

Capacity
8000 kg
No of Chamber
04
Tube Compector
Machine Name
Tube Compactor
Manufacturer
Ferraro
Country of origin
Italy
Capacity
6000 kg
No of padder
02
Maximum speed
42 m/min
Maximum temperature
200 oC
Maximum padder pressure 33

Highest overfeed
40
Highest dia
52
100 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Open Squizer
Machine name
Squizer
Manufacturer
Bianco
Country of origin Italy

Maximum speed
90 m/min
Maximum dia
120
Stenter
Machine Name
Stenter
Manufacturer
Bruckner
Maximum speed
50 m/min
Maximum overfeed
60%
No of chamber
Maximum temperature 250oC

Open Compector
Machine Name
Compactor
Manufacturer
Ferraro
Country of origin
Italy
Maximum speed
42 m/min
Maximum overfeed 15%

Ultrasoft
Machine Name
Ultrasoft
Manufacturer
Lafer
Country of origin Italy

Maximum speed
15 m/min
101 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.3.Observation of Different Finishing M/C:

8.4. Tube Squeezer or De-Watering M/C
After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.
This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the
main function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of
the fabric quality.
Important parts
Twist detector
Expander
Padder
The basic function of the squeezing m/c:
To remove the water from the fabric.

To control the width of the fabric.
To control the length of the fabric.
To control the spirality of the fabric.
To control the over feeding system.
To increase the softness of the fabric.
To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
Table 8. 2: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer:

Fabric path on Function
m/c
Turn Table
Fabric trolley is placed on the turn table which can rotate in clockwise or
anticlockwise direction. It is connected to the de-twister sensor via inverter. It
will rotate to remove twist from the fabric. Fabric is feed to the machine from
this trolley.
J-Box
Fabric is passed through J- box padder in which padder pressure can be

maintained in the range of 1-5 bar. 20% water is extracted here.
Fabric is then stored in flexible tray which can move up & down direction. When
fabric load is high then the tray will automatically lowered & s. When fabric
load is reduced the tray tops the feeding of the fabric. When fabric load is
reduced will move upward & fabric feeding will be started again.
De-Twister
A sensor device is present here, which can detect twist in the fabric. If any twist
goes through the de-twister, it will rotate in clockwise or anticlockwise direction
102 | P a g e
Finishing Section
to remove twist and easy passage of fabric.

Dia-extension
r/r
This is used to control the dia of tubular knit fabric. This devise holds the two
sides of the fabric in tube form and two sensors are present here, which detect
hole in the fabric. If any hole is appeared then the sensor will off the m/c
Water Tray
Fabric is washed with water to remove unfixed dyes and impurities. Fabric is
ringed continuously during the passage and constant water level (80 Lt) is
maintained here. Emersion r/r is used to immerse the fabric to the water tray.
Air-pressure
r/r
Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease
mark formation due to padder pressure.
Padder
Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove 60% water
Pilling Tray
After squeezing the fabric will be stored in pilling tray which relaxes the fabric.
Sensor device is present which detect fabric load. When fabric load is high then
fabric feeding will be reduced automatically.
Chemical
Tray
Fabric is passed through the chemical tray which is connected to the chemical
tank. Chemicals can be applied to the fabric by this tray. Immersion r/r is used to
ensure maximum wet medium.
Air-pressure
r/r
Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease
mark formation due to padder pressure.
Padder
Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove excess
chemical. Padder pressure can be maintained as required but will be less then
back padder.
Shaft
Fabric dia extension is done with the help of shaft. Sensor is present here to
detect hole. Fabric dia will be kept more than the required dia because fabric
remain 40% wet after squeezing.
Delivery zone
Fabric is delivered via folder which moves like pendulum to fold the fabric.
103 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Figure 8. 1: fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c
Table 8. 3: Dia extenion on tube squeezer m/c

Fabric
Dia extension (%)
Single jersey
4-5
1x1 rib
10-12
Interlock
8-10
Fancy rib fabric
Mesh fabric
10-12
Fleece fabric
8-10
104 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.5.Relax Dryer
Dryer machine is used to dry the fabric with the help of the steam. Besides drying it
controls the shrinkage and prepares the fabric for the next process
Important Parts:
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Conveyor net
Chamber
Burner
Exhaust air fan
Over feed roller
Filter net
Fan
Nozzle
The basic function of the dryer:
To dry the fabric.

To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
To control the GSM of the fabric.
Controlling Points
o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structure
o Temperature: It depends on color.
o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the
speed.
Table 8. 4: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer:
Fabric path in m/c
Function
Fabric Trolley
Fabric trolley is placed in front of the m/c & fabric is passed over
guide r/r. Those rollers maintain uniform tension of fabric &
ensure uniform passage of fabric.
Wheel
Wheel is used to control tubular fabric dia. Fabric dia in this

wheel will be more than the required finished dia.
Over Feed r/r
Over feed the fabric in the dryer.
Net
Fabric enters in the dryer in contact with net. There are 4 sets of
net which extend throughout the dryer. Each net forms endless
loop. Those nets provides 3 times more dwell time to the fabric.
Net position is maintained with the help of sensor.
105 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Heating Chamber
Heating is done with super heated steam. Steam is entered to the

heat exchanger through steam pipe. There are 4 heat exchangers
through which heat is applied to the fabric.
Blower
Blowers are used to spread heat from heat exchanger through the
whole dryer. There are 8 blowers which are run by individual
motor.
Out line
Exhaust fan is used to remove exhausted air from the drying zone.
Folder
Folder delivers the fabric to the trolley. Fabric feeding to the

folder is controlled by delivery r/r.
8.6.Tube Compactor
Tube compactor is used to finish knit fabric in tube form;
Important parts
Overfeed roller
Expander
Blanket
Steam sprayers
Cylinder
Teflon covers
The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine
To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
To control the dia.
To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).
106 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Table 8. 5: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor:

Fabric path on m/c
Function
Trolley
Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric is
feed to the machine.
Feeding zone
Tube fabric is passed through the wheel to control fabric dia. Sensor is
present here and if any hole is going to pass through this section, the m/c
automatically stops.
Steam Tray
Steam tray is present after feeding zone. Steam is applied to soften the
fabric. On the top of this zone exhaustion unit is present to remove extra
steam.
Fabric Spreading
Zone
The spreader spread the fabric and set the required width of the fabric.
Magnet is used to hold the wheel which control fabric width. Sensor is also
present here to ensure proper feeding and to detect hole.
Steam Supply Zone
Steam is applied to heat and wet the fabric for proper compacting action.
Steam supporter is present here to support steaming action. Extra steam will
out through steam out line.
Compacting Zone
The fabric is passed through compacting zone. Compacting action is done

by the action of heated cylinder in the lower side and blanket in the upper
side. The blanket is wrapped over the cylinder and proper compaction is
done by the help of blanket. Sensor is present to fix the blanket.
Fabric Delivery
Zone
Fabric folder delivers the fabric to the delivery tray. Here fabric supporter is
present to press the fabric ply and when required amount of fabric is stored
in the delivery tray, it will automatically pass folded fabric to delivery zone
107 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Figure 8- 1: FERRARO Comptex R Tube Compactor (Fabric Passing Path)
Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:

Speed = 0-40
Over feed = 0-30%
Compaction = 0-33%
Temp. = 80-1200C
Figure 8. 2: fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine
Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on the
fabric type and finishing requirementsControlling Points
8.7.Slitting Machine or open squeezer:

Manufacturer: Bianco
Machine parts:
Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line
Ring: To help cutting
Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting
Plaiting: To plate the fabric
Sensor: sense for cutting through break wales line
108 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Fabric Passage:
Figure 8. 3: Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c.
Controlling parameters of open squeezer:

1. Speed
2. Padder pressure
3. Air Pressure
: 0-100m/min
: 0-10 bar
: 1.5 bar
Note:
1. In case of light color padder pressure should be low. Otherwise shade will be
lighter.
2. If the padder is not clean, then line mark can appear in the fabric.
3. If low gsm S/J fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be
maximum.
4. If high gsm fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be minimum.
5. Padder pressure and speed will vary according to the fabric type.
6. In case of Lycra single jersey fabric, speed & padder pressure will be minimum.
Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on the
fabric type and finishing requirements.
109 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.8.Open Compactor
The basic functions of the Open compactor machine is to compact the fabric in open form
&
To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
To control the dia.
To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).
Important parts
Over-feed roller
Blanket
Steam sprayers
Cylinder
Tell on covers
Figure 8. 4: Feraro open compactor
Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:

Speed = 0-40
Over feed = 0-30%
Compaction = 0-33%
Temp. = 80-1200C
110 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Fabric passage in Open Compactor:
Figure 8. 5: fabric passage on open compactor

8.9.Bruckner Stenter:
Stenter machine in very important for finishing knit fabric in open form. It can be used for
the following functions:
Apply chemical and softener

To dart set the T/C fabric
Drying of fabric
To control width
Curing of fabric
Apply pigment dyeing
To control GSM
To control shrinkage
To decrease spirality
To decrease bowing effect
Surface coating for teflon finish
Apply soil release chemical finish
Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric
Etc.
111 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Figure 8. 6: Bruckner Stenter machine

Table 8. 6: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of stenter machine:
Fabric in different Parts
of the m/c.
Function
Feeding through the

tension r/r
The fabric is fee through tension r/r and passes in between two centering
device to straight the fabric. Here expender 2 rollers are present to
ensure uniform feeding of the fabric.
Fabric in padding zone
If the fabric is treated by using 2 padders then, at first the fabric is

immersed to the water tray by immersion r/r then squeezed by padder.
Then the fabric is passed through chemical tray where softener is used.
If one padder is used then, only chemical application is done by the
padder. After chemical tray the fabric is squeezed to remove excess
chemicals. Here padder pressure is less than the front padder pressure &
will be 0-10bar
Tension adjust r/r
Here tension is adjusted by sensor. The tension r/r will move upward
direction if fabric feeding is lowered due to any reson.
Sensors
Fabric course line is continuously monitor and result is shown on the

screen. Number of total sensors is 8 and placed side by side through the
width wise direction off the machine. With this result bowing and
slanting of fabric is controlled.
Control unit
Here monitor is present which shows fabric position graph of the course
line, speed, temperature in different zone, over feed for left & right
feeding r/r. In this position bowing con be automatically controlled via
control unit.
112 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Mahalo r/r
Mahalo rollers are used to control the bowing effect from fabric. This
will maintain the fabric position and when sensor sense that bowing or
slanting is appeared then this r/r will fix that. Number of total bowing r/r
2 and other 2 supporters are present.
Overfeed r/r
Over feed is given via this r/r. 0-60 % over feed can be given depending
on the fabric type.
Width adjusting device
There are two plates at the two ends of the machine which remove
curling of the fabric and also dust. If any hole is obtain then, sensor stops
the m/c
Wheel
Attach the fabric to the pin of the chain.
Brush
There are 2 brushes which ensure the fabric is attached to the pin.
Pin rail
Pin rail is used to covey the fabric to the heating chamber. There are two
chain rails, one in each side and forms endless loop throughout the
machine from chain entry zone to heating chamber.
Steam tray
There is steam tray on the underside of feeding zone for steam

application.
Heating chamber
Here heat is applied to the fabric in six heating chamber. Heating

arrangement is done via thermo oil and there are 6 heating chambers.
Blower is used to spread heated air throughout the chamber, one from
upper side another from lower side of the fabric. There are 2 exhaust
fans in each chamber to remove residual heated air. There is oil line inlet
and outlet for continuous passing through heat exchanger to the oil
boiler. Exhaust air line is present on the upper side of the heating
chamber. Heat is increased after each chamber towards the end.
Delivery Zone
Fabric is delivered through some tension r/r and then passed via folder to
the fabric trolley.
Controlling parameters of Bruckner Stenter:

Maximum capacity: 12 ton per day
Maximum dia: 120 inch
Gsm control 60%
113 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Maximum dia control 5

Shade control: up to 95%
Hydro Extractor:
Fig: Hydro extractor
Controlling Points
a. Temperature- It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.
For S/J the temp is 150oC and 170oC for stripe fabrics.
b. Over feed-Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.
c. Width setting-Higher width setting reduces the GSM
d. Speed-It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.
114 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.10. Ultra-soft m/c:

Ultra soft machine is used to increase softness of fabric. This is a mechanical process of
finishing.
Table 8. 7: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Ultra soft m/c
Fabric path on m/c
Function
Trolley
feed to the machine.
Feeding zone
Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensures proper
feeding of the fabric to the machine.
Auto controller
Here sensor is present to detect the sewing line in the fabric. When sewing
line is appeared then the sensor will slower the drum speed of the machine.
If this is not done there is possibility to open up the sewing. Because high
tension is occurred during the passing of the fabric to the carbon brush or
drum r/r thus drum speed is lowered.
Expander r/r
This is used to spread the fabric and to feed the fabric in the machine. Here
2 expender rollers are present.
Carbon Roller unit
Fabric is then passed over the carbon r/r where 6 carbon brushes are present.
Those brushes along with the drum rotate in the opposite direction of the
fabric. Fabric face side will be in contact with the carbon brush. On the top
of this zone, blower is present to blow dust produced due to brushing of the
fabric. Number of blower is 8 and blowing will vary depending on the
fabric type. In the lower side, suction unit is present to suck the dust and
conveyed to the outer duct. The whole unite is covered with glass cover to
ensure dust free environment
Bitter and brush Fabric is then passed through the bitter and brush roller to remove dust
residual to the fabric. Exhaust sensor is present here to exhaust dust from
r/r
the fabric.
Delivery unit
Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. folding device
is used to fold the fabric.
115 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Controlling parameters:
Fabric speed
: 12-20m/min
Carbon Brush speed : 8-40 m/min

Dia reduction
: 5-25%
Fabric pressure
: 30-40 kg
Taker in tension
: 18-25
Note:
1. If speed of carbon brush is high then softness will be high
2. Softening action is done on the face side of the fabric.
3. At least 5% gsm of the fabric will reduce after brushing.
4. Dust storage unit is present.
5. Dia of the fabric will reduce after brushing (ex-20%) and thus fabric must run to the
stenter m/c after brushing.
8.11. Brushing machine

By the brushing machine back side of the fleece fabric is brushed.
Table 8.8: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Brushing m/c:
Fabric
on m/c
path Function
Trolley
feed to the machine. Fabric is feed to the machine so that the back side of
the fleece fabric should be in contact with the brushing unit.
Feeding zone
Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensures
proper feeding of the fabric to the machine. There are some expender
rollers in the machine which ensures proper feeding of the fabric to the
m/c
Fabric
in Brushing action is done with the help of brushing roller which consists of
116 | P a g e
Finishing Section
brushing unit
24 rollers with sharp pinned surface like carding r/r in carding m/c. 12
rollers are move along with the fabric which have rpm more than the
fabric. Other 12 rollers are move in the opposite direction of the fabric.
Combine action of all brushing r/r will brush the loops in fleece fabric.
Blower
and Blowing arrangement is present on the machine to remove dust produced
during brushing. There is exhaust unit on the lower side of the brushing
suction unit
unit to exhaust dust.
Guide r/r
Fabric is conveyed to the front side of the machine with the help of some
guide rollers. The fabric is delivered to the front side of the m/c
Delivery unit
Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. Folding

device is used to fold the fabric.
Sample:
Fleece fabric before brush
Fleece fabric after brush
117 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Figure 8. 7: Brushing machne
Note:
1. Brushing action is done on the back side of the fleece fabric
2. Fabric is run in m/c for 3-6 times until the target is achieved.
3. Gsm of the fabric will reduce.
4. This is a mechanical action and once produced cannot be changed.
118 | P a g e
Finishing Section
8.12. Fabric Inspection:

The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting,
dyeing or finishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be good
and the buyer will reject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of this
finished fabric is so important. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:
Faults
Indicating syble
Hole
Dye stain
DS
Oil stain
OS
Chemical stain
CS
Slubs
Lycra Out
LO
Fly Yarn
FY
Insect Spots
IS
Crease Mark
CR
Uneven shade
US
Needle Line
NL
Thick Thin
TT
Bowing
Neps
In N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. 4 points system is used for calculating fabric acceptance:4points system
In four points system the points are defined on the basis of defect size as shown below:
Size of the defect
Penalty
7.5 cm or less
1 points
Over 7.5 cm but less than 15 cm
2 points
Over 15 cm but less than 22.5 cm 3 points
Over 22.5 cm
4 points
Any hole
4 points
119 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Acceptance Calculation
Roll length in meter = A
Total points found = B
Acceptance Value = B/A x 100 points per 100 meter
Acceptance range
Range
Grade
<40 points
41 60 points
61 80 points
A
B
C
Above 80 points Reject

If the fabric is found within acceptance limit then it is delivered to Garments section. But if
the fabric fault is so high that cross the acceptance limit then it is rejected.
8.13. Faults of fabrics in finishing section:

Table 9- 1: Faults of fabrics at finishing section
FABRIC
FAULTS &
Related
Dept.
IMAGE
Hole
Dyeing
CAUSES
REMIDIES
Due to problematiic
nozzle in dyeing
m/c some holes
may produce in
fabric
during
dyeing.
Nozzles must be cleaned

time to time & maintanace
should should be done
properly.
120 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Uneven
shade
dyenig fault
Softener
stain
Finishing
Due
to
dyeing
faulty Bleaching & Re-dyeing

H2O2=3g/l
NaOH=2g/l
Detergent =0.5g/l
S.A.=0.5g/l
Improper mixing of Washing with:

solution.
wetting agent & detergent:
0.5g/l
Acid: 3g/l
Temp. : 900C
Time: 10min
Lycra burn
Finishing +
Dyeing
Due to improper
heat set.
Heat set must be done

carefully.
Wrong
Slitting
Finishing
Its causes due to

operator
carelessness.someti
mes workers doesnt
slit fabric through
slitting mark.
Operators have to slit

fabric through slitting
mark or fed fabric in
slitting m/c in proper way
so that m/c can slit fabric
through slitting mark.
Rub Mark
Dyeing fault
Due to carelessness
of operator.
Washing
Soaping agent:0.5g/l
Temperature:550C
Time: 15min
121 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Missing
yarn
knitting
fault
Yarn breakage or Automatic yarn stopper

carelessness 0f the should be repaired.
operator.
Operators
must
be
carefull.
Fly
contaminati
on knitting
fault
During knitting, if Knitting machine should

any dirt, dust, or be clean.
any foreign particle
passes into the yarn
and the fabric is
knitted with this
dirt or fly yarn.
Pressed-off
stich
knitting
fault
Yarn breaks before Operator must be careful.

the yarn feeder.
Yarn
package
windi
ngfaults,
poor
package build-up.
Fibre fly block the
yarn guids, feeders
etc.
Needle
broken
Knitting
fault
1.Due
to
dirt
deposuition
in
needle this problem
occurred.
2.This problen also
can occur due to
yarn
tension
variation.
1.Yarn tension hav to

minimize.
2.Needle must be cleaned
before production of any
new fabric.
122 | P a g e
Finishing Section
Thick &
Thin
Knitting
fault
Its causes due to Yarn should be carefully

yarn
problem.if selected.
thick & thin places
remain in yarn &
fabric is knitted
with
that
yarn,then,this
problem found in
fabric.
Pin hole
Knitting
1.Improper tension 1.Different drive have to

2.Same drive for maintained.
both knit & tuck 2.Needle has to change.
stitch.
3.curved
latch.
Waviness
needle
This sturcture
consist of plain &
lacost design where
stitch length for
tuck stitch is kept
same as all knit
loops.As a result
waviness has
produced in lacost
part.
Different SL for tuck

stitch must be kept by
adjusting VDQ pulley.
123 | P a g e
Garments Section
CHAPTER: GARMENTS SECTION
124 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
9.1.Organ gram of cutting department
Manager,
Cutting
Cutting
In-Charge
Cutting
Supervisor
Cutter
Scissor
Cutting
Sticker
Bend-
Writer
man
man
helper
man
knife
man
cutter
125 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
9.2. Fabric spreading section:

The fabric is spread face to back.
The width of the fabric or lay is defined by the fabric diameter as developed by the
knitting department in correspondence with some predetermined calculation by the
Merchandising department, which is done with repeat to the order specifications as given
by the buyer.
Even the lay length is not fixed & it is done or calculated while laying the fabric by the
trial and error method.
9.3. Marker Type:

I. Non sectional marker is used irrespective of the order or the style.
II. The marker length is not pre determined and a particular order style may have more
one spreads, each with different marker lengths.
III. Marker is drawn on the top layer of the fabric with contrasting chalks & sometimes
even with pen. Therefore, if actually reduces the works of the cutting department.
IV. Marker efficiency is not checked .Therefore; there is no control & effort to gain
maximum marker efficiency.
V. Since pattern parts are few and simple, we can certainly use sectional markers as even
non-sectional markers do not have very high efficiency.
VI. Workers should be aware of splicing right at the defect and not leave any allowance
while cutting.
9.4. Bundling and Ticketing:
It is always taken care that, there are 25-30 pieces in the bundle as per ISO: 9001 norms. A
ticket is attached to each of the bundle, which has the following parameters:
Order Number:
Color:
Bundle no:
Cut no.
126 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
9.5. Cutting equipments
Fig.: process of sample cutting & other
9.6. Machine specification:
SL
no.
M/C name
Fabric Inspection
Brand/Model
Features
Made in
with auto
Total m/c Qty
USA 1 Set
speed controller
2
Cutting Machine
Eastman Model No
629
11 Sets
Band Knife
Eastman EC 700
3 Sets
Dies Cutting M/C
H Schwable Inc
Dies Cutting M/C
MF 25 Atom Italy
End Cutter
Eastman
Lay Cutting
10 Sets
Cutting Tables
USA
60 X 6
2 Sets
Made in USA
1 Sets
2 Sets
127 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Cutting Tables
Taiwan
52 X 6
4 Sets
Cutting Tables
Taiwan
48 X 6
3 Sets
10
Laser Light
Eastman
2 Sets
11
Cutting Gloves
Eastman
12
Inter Lining Cutting
Local
17 Sets
52 Width
1 Set
Total
57 Sets
9.7.Sewing section
Specification of machines in sewing section:
S/L
Type of Machine
Brand
No
m/c
of country
origin
Single Needle lock stitch
JUKI
278
JAPAN
Single Needle lock stitch
JUKI
160
JAPAN
Over lock 4 thread
JUKI
225
JAPAN
Over lock 4 thread
JUKI
10
JAPAN
Over lock 4 thread Top dowen
JUKI
JAPAN
Over lock 4 thread Back latch
JUKI
10
JAPAN
Over lock 4 thread Cylinder
JUKI
JAPAN
Over lock 6 thread
JUKI
JAPAN
Cylinder Bed Flat lock
PEGASUS
47
JAPAN
10
PEGASUS
25
JAPAN
11
PEGASUS
JAPAN
of
128 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
12
PEGASUS
JAPAN
13
Flat Bed Flat lock
PEGASUS
18
JAPAN
14
Flat Bed Flat lock
PEGASUS
15
JAPAN
15
Flat Bed Flat lock
PEGASUS
JAPAN
16
Feed of the Arm
YAMATO
JAPAN
17
Button Hole
JUKI
12
JAPAN
18
Button Stitch
JUKI
12
JAPAN
19
Ber Tack
JUKI
JAPAN
20
Picoating
KANSAI
JAPAN
21
Needle Detector
CINTEX
ENG:AND
22
Fusing Machine
HASHIMA
JAPAN
23
Rib Cutter (3 way)
CALIFORNIA
USA
24
Rib Cutter (Single)
TAIWAN
25
Band Knife
EASTMAN
JAPAN
26
Cutting Machine
KM
10
JAPAN
27
Vacuam Table
NAOMOTO
50
JAPAN
28
Heater less Iron
NAOMOTO
50
JAPAN
29
Label Cutter and Folder
TAIWAN
30
Snap Button Machine
YKK
10
GERMANY
31
Thread Sucker
NAOMOTO
THAILAND
32
3 Needle, 5 Thread Cylinder bed PEGASUS

Interlock Machine with Fabric
Trimmer
44
SINGAPORE
129 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
TOTAL=
1037
9.8.Other Sewing Equipments
S/L M/C name
Brand/Model
Feature
total
m/c
Qty
Fusing Machine
Hashima 600B
Made in Japan
1 set
Fusing Machine
Kanegisser
Made in Japan
2 sets
Automatic
Shirt
Fusing Machine
Auto Temp System
4 sets
Collar Turning and
Blocking Pneumatic
3 sets
Placket NS-8233Ngai Shing
NS-44 Ngai Shing
Blocking Machine
5
Collar Point Trimming
NS-75 Ngai Shing
3 sets
Collar Point Trimming & NS-76 Ngai Shing

Turning
8 sets
Collar Turning &
NS-76 Ngai Shing
Collar Edge Cutting 8 sets

with Adjustable Width
Blocking Machine
8
Neck Press Machine
NS-92 Ngai Shing
NISSIN M/C with 2 sets

Double Head each
Neck Press Machine
NISSIN CPF-2
With Auto Head
1 set
Controller
10
Collar Blocking M/C Forming
NAGAI Sing NS-
Auto Collar Blocking
8 sets
Auto Cuff Pressing
9 Sets
8247
11
Cuff Press
NS-82 Ngai Shing
130 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
12
Reconing Machine
Ns-85 Ngai Shing
2 Cone Machine
2 Sets
13
Placket Cutting M/C
Hashime-HW-40
With Auto Stracker & 2 Sets

Adjust Table
14
Pocket Creasing
Nagaishing Brand
With Steam and
NS-94
Header
Made in USA
9 Sets
15
Arm Hole Fusing M/C
Nagaishing NS84 SD
16
Collar Heat Notcher
Vapor Press Co.
2 Sets
17
Arm Hole Press
Ns-91
4 Sets
18
Side Seam Press
NS-8235
1 Set
19
Collar Notcher
NS-8232
4 Sets
Total:
5 Sets
78
sets
9.9.Sewing sequence of t-shirt:
Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)
Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
Neck rib joins with body pant
131 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Neck top sin
Solder to solder back tip
Size label sewing
Solder to solder back top sin
Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
Sleeve joint with the body part
Side sewing and care label joint
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
Bottom hem sewing
Arm bottom hem joint
Inspection.
132 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
9.10.Sewing sequence of Polo shirt:
Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing
Collar marking for open stitch
Collar inside open stitch
Collar marking
Collar top sin
Collar cutting
Band Rolling
Band joint with Collar
Band top sin 1/6
Placket lining
Placket marking
Placket Rolling
Placket joint
133 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Placket top sin 1/6
Placket Pattern top sin
Placket pattern top sin 1/6
Box Sewing
Pocket Rolling
Pocket iron
Pocket marking
Pocket joint with body
Yoke joint with back part
Yoke top sin
Back & front part matching number
Solder joint
Solder top sin
Collar marking
134 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Collar & body number matching
Collar joint with body part
Collar top sin in jointing point
Sleeve marking
Sleeve over locked
Sleeve Rolling
Sleeve pair matching
Sleeve & body matching
Sleeve body tuck
Sleeve joint with body part
Sleeve marking for batch
Sleeve batch joint (left & right side)
Body marking for batch
Batch joint with body part
135 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Label make
Label Iron
Main label joint in back side
Sleeve opening tuck
Body hem sewing
Care label sewing
Side joint
Band tuck
Band tape joint
Band top sin
Sleeve chap tuck
Inspection.
136 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
FIG: sewing and sample making
137 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10 CHAPTER :PRINTING SECTION
138 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.1. Machineries in printing section:
Semi automatic flat bed printing m/c:
03 pcs
Dryer :
02 pcs
No. of Flat bed Table :
05 pcs
10.2.Machine specification of printing section:

SL
no
M/C name
Brand
Origin
Capacity
No of m/c
MHM Printing M/C
Tesoma
Australia
600 pcs/hrs
1 Set
Heat Press M/C
Metalnox
Heat Press M/C
Wagen
Germany
1 Set
Label Washing M/C
Shanghai
China
1 Set
Flock M/C
Germany
2 Set
Flock M/C
Local
2 Set
Color Mixing
H.S.Z
2Set
Thailand
1 Set
Kiddzigrio
8
Spray Gun M/C
Germany
Printing Table
H.S.Z
Kiddzigri
Thailand
1000pcs/hrs
2 Set
10
Printing Table
Local
Bangladesh
1600pcs/hrs
4 Set
2 Set
139 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.3. Chemical used in Printing:

Thickener (PG): It is a main compound for making a paste.
Binder: Hold color on to the fabric surface.
Fixer: Cross linking chemical (when drying at high temperature about 150 C) Printing
section
Pigment: It is a coloring substance
10.4. Different types of printing:

1. Pigment printing
2. Rubber printing
3. Crack printing
4. Discharge printing
5. Plastic sol/ High-density printing
6. Flocking printing
7. Foil printing
8. Glitter printing
9. Emboss / Pub printing
10.5. Printing Process Sequence
Pigment printing
Recipe:
Thickener------2%
Binder--------8%
Fixer----------2%
Water---------90%
Sequence:
140 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Table preparation
Fabric plaited on the table
Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen
Curing at 160C (belt speed 6.50 m/min)
Delivery
10.6. Rubber printing
Recipe:
Rubber----------------60%
Clear------------------38%
Fixer---------------------2%
Sequence:
Table preparation
Rubber printing paste apply with the help of screen
Hanging the fabric for 30 min
141 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Curing at 150c (belt speed 5 m/min)
Delivery.
10.7. Crack printing
Recipe:
Rubber-----------------98%
Fixer-------------------2%
Crack paste / clear
Sequence:
Table preparation
Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen
Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)
Printing paste apply with the help of screen
Deliver
142 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.8. Flock printing
Recipe:
Flock paste------------------ 90%

Fixer (Nylon) --------------- 10%
Flock powder (Synthetic or cotton)
Sequence:
Table preparation
Apply flock paste with the help of screen
Flock powder apply with the help of flock gun
Manually dry by hanging for 30min
Brushing
Delivery
143 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.9. Foil printing
Foil paper solid color which is made by buyer requirement.

Recipe:
Foil paste----------------90%
Fixer---------------------10%
Sequence:
Fabric preparation
Foil gun /Foil paste apply by screen
Dry slightly in air temp / Hand dryer
Apply foil paper on the fabric
Heat apply by heat press m/c(150c for 5sec)
Cooling for 4 sec
Foil paper removed by hand
Deliver
144 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.10. Emboss / Pub printing
Recipe:
Rubber paste------------ 49%

Pub / Emboss----------- 49%
Fixer---------------------- 2%
Sequence:
Table preparation
Apply printing paste by screen (3times)
Hanging for 15min
Curing at 170c (belt speed 3m/min)
Delivery
145 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
10.11. Discharge printing
Recipe:
Discharge rubber paste------------ 90%

Discharge/ RNS powder----------- 49%
Sequence:
Table preparation
Apply printing paste with the help of screen
Delivery
10.12. Plastic sol/ High-density printing:
Recipe:
High-density paste------------ 100%
146 | P a g e
Embroidery Section
Sequence:
Table preparation
High-density paste apply by screen
Delivery
10.13. Glitter printing:
Recipe:
Rubber paste------------ 70%
Fixer---------------------- 2%
Glitter---------------------- 28%
Sequence:
Table preparation
Glitter paste apply by screen
Hanging for 15min for dry
Curing at 160 c (belt speed 3m/min)
Delivery
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Embroidery Section
10.14.Faults in printing:
Fatting: If the pigment printed fabric is fatted (on printed portion) after washing. Then this
fabric is rejected. So it is major fault for printing.
Cracking: If the rubber printed fabric is braking (on printing portion) after elastration.
Fig: Printing Table
Fig: Semi automatic flat screen printing m/c
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Embroidery Section
11CHAPTER :EMBROIEDERY SECTION
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Embroidery Section
11.1. Organ gram of Embroidery Section:
Embroidery
In-charge
Embroidery
Supervisor
Embroidery Operator
Embroidery Helper
11.2. Process sequence of embroidery:
1. At first designed the buyer design by CAD software

2. The design software install into the machine
3. The fabric clamped by the clamp board
4. Then run the machine until finished the design
5. Then the fabrics collect for delivery.
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Embroidery Section
11.3.Embroidery Faults:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Stitch gap
Bobbin out
Oil spot
Miss thread
Measurement up-down
Needle hole.
Fig: Embroidery machine
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Embroidery Section
12 CHAPTER : QUALITY CONTROL
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Embroidery Section
Quality Control:
Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to
control of the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products.
It is concerned not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but
also concerned with the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in
quality. In order to control quality one must know about the consumers expectations.
12.1.List of Equipments:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Computer
Light box
Electric Heater
Sample Dyeing M/C
Electrical Balance
PH meter
G S M Cutter
Washing M/ C
Shrinkage & spirality measurement instrument
12.2.Objectives of quality Control:
Selection of raw materials

Specification test
Product testing.
To ensure the product desired quality.
To fulfill requirements for quality.
Process control and development
To control and different techniques will be required by different conditions.
Quality assurance and so on.
To evaluate accurately of the end product.
To research and development

Quality assurance and so on.
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Embroidery Section
12.3.Quality Management system:
Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-
Quality control
On Line Test
off Line Test
Physical Tests
Chemical Tests
On Line Test
-
Fabric GSM control
Grey Fabric Inspection with 4 point system
Diameter and Width control
Shade Check;
Bias and Bowing;
Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);
Stripe.
Off Line Test

Off line quality are divided into two groupsPhysical Tests and Chemical Tests.
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Embroidery Section
Physical Tests
GSM of Fabric;
Rubbing Fastness or Crocking;
Pilling test;
Diameter and Width;
Tensile strength;
Tearing test;
Bursting test;
Light Fastness test;
Drape, Stiffness, and Handle;
Course per inch;
Wales per inch;
Picks per inch;
Ends per inch.
Chemical Tests
Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting;
Fastness to Washing;
Fastness to Perspiration;
Fastness to Chlorine;
PH test.
12.4.Quality assurance:
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions
necessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given
requirements for quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain
consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its
manufacturing.
12.5.Quality assurance at different stage:

Assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following three steps:
In laboratory
In dyeing section &
In finishing section
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Embroidery Section
Procedures are described below:

In laboratory
Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement
recipe prediction for sample dyeing
sample dyeing until matching with swatch card
Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.
In dyeing section
According to the buyers sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing

machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.
If result is OK, then bulk production.
During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The interval
may be 30-40 minutes.
After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.
Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.
Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.
In finishing section
By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance
are maintained according to requirements.
Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties.
Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery.
Fabric Inspection:
The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified
and fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric inspection is
done for both gray and finished fabric.
Grey Fabric Inspection:
Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.
Finished Fabric Inspection:

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Embroidery Section
4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.

Defects found in the final inspection:
Uneven shade
Oil spot
Neps
Crease mark
Machine Stoppage mark
Listing
Line mark
Pick missing
Double yarn
Dead cotton
Bowing
Fly yarn contamination
12.6.Test procedures for Quality Control

1. GSM Test
GSM is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample is cut then
weighted in the electronic balance. The reading is then (in gm) from the balance,
multiplied by 100, to get Value of G S M.
2. Finished Fabric dia
In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very important factor. It should be
kept as the buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter is
controlled at compacting m/c.
3. Rubbing test:
1. Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a fabrics to evaluate the
transfer of surface dye from the test fabric when it is applied surface friction or rubbing
against a rough surface.
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Embroidery Section
2. Apparatus: Crock-meter and grey scale

3. Method: ISO-105x12
4. Test specification:
Sample fabric size : 250mm X 50mm Crocking Fabric size: 50mm X 50mm
The crocking cloth against which then sample will be rubbed is a white, bleached, Un-dyed
cotton fabric.
Procedure: At first the sample is placed with template over the metallic mounting plate.
Then the cracking cloth is set in the crocking pin (peg) with clip. Then the test
specification is rubbed to & for (10s X 10 rubs, 1 rub/sec) by means of crock meters figure.
Finally the crocking cloth is removed from the peg. In case of wet rubbing test, the
crocking cloth is wetted at room temperature.
Evaluation:
Compare the contrast between untreated & treated white crocking cloth with the staining
grey scale. Again, color contrasts of rubbed and un-rubbed by sample are compared with
color changing grey scale. For both type of rubbing test, the fastness is rate from 1 to 5,
where 1 means worst rubbing fastness & 5 means excellent rubbing fastness.
Wash fastness:
A. Purpose: The resistance of the color of any dyed/printed material to washing is
known as wash fastness.
B. Apparatus:
Wash fastness tester,
Grey scale,
Multi-fiber.
C. Method: ISO-105-CO6
D. Test specimen: For Fabric: Fabric, size 10 cm X 4 cm.
Multi-fiber fabric: Multi-fiber fabric size 10 cm X 4 cm.
E. Reagent:
ECE determent 50gm

Na-perborate 10gm
Tade= 2gm
4BK= 2gm
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Embroidery Section
Water= 20lt
pH =10.51
Time = 30min
Temperature = 600C
No. of still ball (on condition) =50
F. Procedure:
Weight of the specimen & volume of the wash liquor are calculated as require
ISO-105-CO6 method.
Place of the specimen in the container with the wash liquor.
Run the machine & rise the Temp. at600C and run for 30min.
m/c will automatically wash & rinse the fabric
Drying: Drying in a fully automatic dryer at temperature not more then 600C then
keep in relax for 1 hour.
H. Assessment: color change: The original & tested dyed sample are placed by side,
oriented in the same direction along with the color change grey scale and compare the
contrast between the treated dyed sample and the same untreated sample with the
appropriate
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Embroidery Section
13 CHAPTER : COST ANALYSIS
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Embroidery Section
13.1.Introduction:
Costing is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.And it
is also strictly followed in the N.A.Z.Bangladesh Ltd. Costing of the products
considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers,
distributions and advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect expenses is done in
this factory. It is determined by a troop of accountants with advice and consultancy of
executive director.Cost analysis is a crucial step for any business organization,
specially if it is a manufacturing company. Here cost analysis is done in conventional
method. Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is calculated.
13.2.Price of the product
Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the total
expenses. So,
Price of products= (Direct cost + Indirect cost + Factory
Overhead) + Required profit
13.3.Costing system
Costing system mainly describes how the cost of the final product is fixed by the
company/beneficial. According to buyer/customers requirement at first the fabric is
collected from local and foreign suppliers. Then it id calculated how much dyestuff
and chemical is required to the end of the processing of that specific fabric .After
that, the final cost is fixed including some profit & manufacturing overhead.Then
the unit price is offered to the buyer for approval.
Costing of the prodsuct is done by the consideration of the following factors:
Direct materials.
Indirect materials.
Direct labours
Indirect labours
Manufacturing Overhead
Floor rent.
Machine drescription.
Utility cost.
Maintenance.
Spare parts.
Depriciations
Office overhead.
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Embroidery Section
Transportation.
Refreshment.
Miscellaneous.
13.4.Example of a costing Procedure:
Cost Calculation: (in tk)

Cost of total chemical:
Taka Factory overhead:
Taka All other cost:
Taka Profit:
Taka
Total cost:
x
y
z
a
Total Price:
(x+y+z+a) Taka
(x+y+z)
Cost of Dyeing and Finishing (assuming)

Table 10.1: Cost of Dyeing and Finishing of knit fabric
Color
Open Finishing with Enzyme & Silicon(Tk/kg)

100% cotton S/J
Lycra S/J
Light color
120
140
Medium color
135
160
Dark color
145
170
Off white
110
130
White
60
80
Royal Blue
160
170
Only wash
50
70
20
Sweding (Ultrasoft)
20
20
Brush
10
10
Only heat setting
13.5.Costing of the product for finished fabric
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Embroidery Section
Cost of Fabric per Kg
= Yarn price +Knitting charge +process loss (4%) +

Dyeing cost + process loss (5%) + packaging cost +
25% margin Profit
Say,
Yarn count= 30/s
Yarn price= 5.60$
So, cost of raw material/kg
= 5.60x70 Taka
= 392 Taka
Knitting charge (say s/j)
= 8 Taka
Process loss (4%)
= 16 Taka
So, price of grey knitted fabric
=416 Taka
Dyeing cost per kg
=120 Taka
Process loss (5%)
=26.8 Taka
So, Dyed fabric cost
=562.8 Taka
Packaging coast
=3.50 Taka
So, Total cost of dyed fabric =566.3 Taka

Fabric price (with 25% margin profit) = 707.88 Taka/kg
13.6.Costing for garments

Fabric consumption (for garments/dozen):
Required fabric weight in Kg. = (Body length +sleeve length + sewing allowance) x
Chest x 2 x gsm x 12/1,00,00,000 +15%
Say,
Body length
=78cm
Sleeve length =32cm

Chest length x (1/2) =62cm
Sewing allowance
=1cm
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Embroidery Section
Gsm
=210
Fabric consumption /dozen= (78+32+1) x 62 x 2 x 210 x12/1,00,00,000 + 15%

=3.99kg/doz
Body fabric cost/dozen
= 707.88 x 3.99
= 2824.44 Taka
Cost of collar & cuff/dozen = 220 Taka

Cost of Trims/dozen =160 Taka
Cost of Trims/ dozen (with 5% process loss) = 168 Taka
Production cost of garments/dz
= (Body fabric cost +cost of collar & cuff +cost of

Trims)
=2824.44+220+168
=3212.44 Taka
Garments price/dozen (with 25% profit) = 4015.55 Taka

=57.37$
13.7.REMARKS
Costing is as important as production for a productive factory. Without
proper costing all production curriculums will go to in vain. Cause, a factory cannot
reach to its goal without achieving good profit and good profit is not possible
without skillful costing. Seeing the improvement of Epyllion Knitex Limited day by
day, we can assume that it follows the right and proper way of costing with
skillful technical persons.Price of the product and costing of the product of any
Industry is a secret subject because it is related in the marketing strategy of the
industry. I suggest my college not to include these topics in the curriculum of
industrial attachment program.
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ETP
14 CHAPTER : ETP
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ETP
ETP
ETP means effluent plant. It can be defined as a plant where the effluent is treated. Now a
day ETP is mandatory for industries which produced huge amount of waste water (such as
wet processing industries in Textiles).By basic studies on ETP, we learn how to control
textile waste water pollution, how waste water is treated in order to save our environment.
14.1.Classification of ETP
ETP can be classified as follows
1. Physicochemical
2. Biological
a) Conventional
b) Membrane Bio-Reactor (MBR)
3. Physicochemical followed by biological (Bio-chemical)
The ETP of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd is used Physicochemical followed by biological (Biochemical). The ETP of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd is described below:
Capacity of ETP
:120 M3/hour
Amount of using chemicals:

1) Polyelectrolyte
2) Lime
:2kg/1000L
:
:(50-100) kg/1000L
3) FeSO4
:50
kg/1000L
4) DAP +Urea
:(8+2) kg/1000L
The above qualities are continuously achieved by the ETP plant.
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ETP
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ETP
14.2.Layout of ETP in N.A.Z

Chemical
Dosing Tank
Chemical
Dosing Tank
Lamella Clarifier
(primary)
Lamella Clarifier
(secondary)
Aeration
Tank
Raw
effluent
from
Dyeing
section
Sludge
pit
pH correction
tank
Equalization
Tank
Flocculation
tank
Lamella Clarifier
(primary)
Figure 11.1: Layout of ETP
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ETP
Analysis of waste water should be done in each month and done under the supervision of
Department of Environment. Such analysis sheet which is done on the date of 31-01-11
is given bellow:
Table 11.1: Discharge quality of treated waste water in N.A.Z.

Sample Location
Date
Lab code pH
No.
DO
mg/l
BOD
mg/l
COD
MG/L
TDS
mg/l
N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd 25-012011

(Inlet of ETP)
167
9.8
0.0
120
380
2320
N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd 25-012011

(Outlet of ETP)
198
7.4
4.7
48
160
2040
4.5-8
50
200
2100
Bangladesh Standard for Waste Water from 6-9

industrial units, discharge to inland water as per
ECR 1997.
14.3.Chemicals used for ETP and their functions:

1) H2SO4/HCl
Function:
Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in the
neutralization tank.
2) Polyelectrolyte
Function:
Make chemical particles bigger in size
3) De-colorant
Function:
It is used for removing color of waste water.
4) Sodium Hypochlorite
Function:
It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation tank.
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ETP
5) FeSO4
Function:
Used for coagulation and sludge separation from waste water.
7) Lime
Function:
To change the color of waste water.
8) Di-ammonium phosphate
Function:
Using food of bacteria.
9) Urea
Function:
Using food of bacteria.
Product Quality Checked:
Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)

Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
Total suspended solids
Total dissolved solids
Color
pH, etc.
Remarks:
Waste water from processing industries e g. Dyeing , Printing , Finishing and
washing causes great harmful effect on our environmental, As a result agricultural land
loses its fertility, natural water becomes polluted aquatic life is destructive and crops are da
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Maintenance Section
15 CHAPTER : MAINTENANCE SECTION
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Maintenance Section
15.1.Maintenance
Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble
free. Service and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality
required by the customers is sustained.
On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures trouble free services.
Maintenance of machineries is very important for any type of industries and it is must for
a knit composite factory. All machines and machine parts of knitting, dyeing and
garments are maintained with extreme care. Because production quality and quantity,
both depends on the maintenance with regularity.
15.2.Objective of Maintenance
To keep the factory plants, equipments, machines. Tools in an optimum working condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product & time schedule of delivery to customer.
To keep the machine down time to minimum thus to have control over the production program.
To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
To modify the machine settings to meet the need for the production.
15.3.Classification of Maintenance:
Maintenance
Preventive
Maintenance
Break Down
Maintenance
Mechanical
Electrical
Mechanical
Electrical
Maintenanc
e
Maintenance
Maintenanc
e
Maintenanc
e
172 | P a g e
Maintenance Section
Types of maintenance:
Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection /

checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or
harmful description.
Break down maintenance
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cant perform its normal
functions.
Routine Maintenance
Maintenance of different m/cs are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.

Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different
important parts are done.
Total Manpower
Total Manpower in Maintenance Department: 25
Table 12. 1: Maintenance Tools & Equipments
Mechanical
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Pliers
Inside Calipers
Outside Calipers
Digital Millimeter
Heating Shoulder
Hammer
Pliles
Gauge
Vernier Calipers
Lather M/C
Drill M/C
Welding M/C
Spanner Set
Alen Key Set
Steel Roll
Measuring Tape
Crew Driver
Cutting oil (WD-40)
Electrical
1. Voltmeter
2. Ammeter
3. Contact Cleaner
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Maintenance Section
Maintenance Procedure
Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure following points
should be checked:
15.4.Checklist for Different Machine
15.5.Dyeing Machine
Maintenance: Mechanical
Check the main pump oil level.

Check all bearings, seals, gaskets.
Check all mechanical seal flush pipes.
Discharge the water from air filter.
Check all m/c flange & platform bolts.
Grease RCR rotary joints every 2 weekly
Clean & check the control panel.
Check the adjustment of catch basket mechanism and plaiter system.
15.6.Squeezer Machine
Grease squeezer bearings.
Grease all the bearings.
Check oil level of pneumatic oilers.
Check oil level of gearboxes.
Check magnetic spreader adjustment.
15.7.Machine: Compactor
Check, Grease if necessary
Nuts of width adjustment spindles for wear
Check all spindle bearings for free running
Free running of guide rollers, deflection rollers & contact rollers
Pressure springs of chain tensioner
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Maintenance Section
Perform visual inspection: Gear box oil level

Belts, pulleys
15.8.Machine: Stenter
Crease all bearing with stuburg NBU-12, energrease 1002

Complete cleaning of the machine
Check all belt and belt tension
Check all door sills
Check gear box of platting and its oil.
Check all pin bars & clean
Check chain and give oil if required .Clean exhaust blower & duct
All chamber blowers check and clean
Chamber nozzle cleaning
Check gas pressure, adjust if required
15.9.Machine: Boiler:
Check and clean fluff & dart at all machine.

Feed pump servicing. Main boiler servicing.
Cheek all temperature & pressure gauge meter.
Cheek gas strainer.
Clean gauge glass & change if required.
Clean feed tank.
Clean fire tube.
Clean all safety valves.
Check all steam valves.
Check all gas regulators.
Remarks
Maintenance of m/cs are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is important
consideration.
In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team. So, very few times
production is stopped due to m/c problem.
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Production Planning & Control
16 CHAPTER : PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL
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16.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within the required
time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives a scheduled
task and control completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an
easy task. Its basic working procedure is as follows
Taking order form marketing division
Analyzing the orders
Planning for knitting the fabric
Planning for dyeing the fabric
Planning for finishing the fabric
It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes the
order is planned only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then some
steps are minimizing for planning.
Taking order from the marketing division:
N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and
control division by a specific format.
Analyzing the orders:
After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order
quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.) delivery date etc. This
section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted, knitting balance, fabric to be
dyed, dyeing balance RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery
balance.
Planning for knitting:
This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no of m/c to
be used, type of yarn used, from which source of yarn will be collected, required GSM,
width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.
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Planning for dyeing of the fabric:
Production planning for dyeing is called "Batch Plan". Batch plan is prepared according to
m/c capacity, no. of nozzle batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of
delivery etc. and written in a batch card.
Planning for finishing of the fabric:
Finishing schedule is same as dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing section
with the batch plan. The fabric can be finished in the open line finish or tube line finish.
Finishing line will be selected according to the type of the fabric to be finished. Finishing
data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section. However this
section always forces to all the departments to finish all the work within the delivery time
given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very important role in the success of the company.
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Marketing Information
17 CHAPTER : MARKETING INFORMATION
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Utility Facilities
17.1.Marketing Information
N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a 100% export oriented ready-made garments
manufacturer. So they sell their product to export market especially to Europe. They also
take some initiative for market development through communicating with new buyer and
taking part in different international garments fair.
Product
As it is an apparels manufacturing industry, its main products arc T-Shirts, polo
Shirts, Tank Top, Sweat Shirts, Night Wears, Jogging Suits, Under Wears, Trousers etc.
The factory ensures safe/metal free garments as per customer requirements, through
practice of metal detection & needle/metal control procedures.
17.2.Major Buyers
H&M
SWEDEN
ALDI
GERMANY
PUNTOROMA
SPAIN
TESCO
U.K
TEX-EBO
GERMANY
TEMA
TURKEY
SPRINGFIELD
EUROPE
UNIQLO
GERMANY
SILVER WEAR
U.K
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Utility Facilities
18 CHAPTER : UTILITY FACILITIES
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Utility Facilities
18.1.Available Utility Facilities

N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd is a large project. So, it requires adequate utility services.
In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. the following utility services are available
Electricity
Gas
Water
Compressed air
Steam
Electricity
It is impossible to continue the production without electricity. A frequent supply of
electricity is very much essential to ensure smooth production. In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
the whole demanded electricity is generated by Own Generator.
Generator Specification
Type
: Gas generator
No. of generator
:2
Manufacturer
: DEUTZ
Local Supplier
Capacity
: KALTIMEX ENERGY BANGLADESH LTD.

:
Generator No
Capacity
Generator No-1
Generator No-2
Electricity Consumption
Overall efficiency
: 80%
Stroke of engine
: 4 Stroke
1010 KW
1344 KW
Season
Total Consumption/Day
In Summer
1400 KW
In Winter
1100 KW
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Utility Facilities
Engine RPM
No
of
: 1500
Cylinder
Generator No
Generator No-1:
Generator No-2:
Cooling System
: Open Cycle
Ignition System
: Auto
No of Cylinder
12
16
Starting Procedure (Generator)

Generator Room should be Clean
Cooling Tower water reserve tank shold filled
Oil Circulation pump run for 10 min
Start the Engine 5 Min without any load
Close the main circuit breaker and connect

the load.
Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different, section of N. A. Z

Bangladesh Ltd.
Gas
The gas is supplied to Gas Generator, Boiler.
The source of gas is TITAS GAS LTD.
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Utility Facilities
Water
Continuous supply of water for N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd is ensured by Water pump. The
deep well water is subjected to Water Treatment Plant (WTP) to make sure the water
quality parameter suitable for Textile Wet Processing.
18.2.Water Treatment Plant (WTP)
The goal of all water treatment process is to remove existing contaminants in the water, or
reduce the concentration of such contaminants so the water becomes fit for its desired enduse. Some common contaminants in raw water (deep well water) are iron, Ca, Mg etc. The
water treatment plant is a vital part of the dyeing section where the supply water of the
dyeing floor is treated and cured for proper dyeing. The supply water contains various
soluble effluents like dissolved solids, metal compounds and other impurities which can
lead to any sort of fabric fault during dyeing the knitted fabrics Optimum Hardness for Dye
house water is 1-3 ppm.
In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. , water treatment is done in three steps by three filter tanks.
The circulations of water at different stages are controlled by different bulbs. Backwash
bulbs are used when the tank needs washing, Drain bulbs helps to drain out the water and
Supply bulbs are used to control the water supply among the filter tanks.
Water Treatment Procedure
Multi Grade Filter:

The multi grade filter is used for removing the residual iron contained in the treated water.
Activated Carbon Filter:
The activated carbon filter is used for removing the remaining metals and other impurities by
passing the water flow through rocks of different sizes arranged in different layers of the tank.
At first there is a layer of small rocks and next is a layer of medium rocks and finally comes a
layer of big rocks. The tank contains a carbon layer in middle.
Softener Tank:
The heart of a water softener is a mineral tank. It's filled with small polystyrene beads,
also known as resin or zeolite. The beads carry a negative charge. Calcium and magnesium in water both carry positive charges. This means that these minerals will cling to
the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank.
184 | P a g e
Utility Facilities
Soft Water Reserve Tank:

The processed soft water is reserved in the soft water reserve tank.
Brine Water Tank:
The brine tank is just what its name suggests, a plastic tank that contains a brine, water
saturated with salt. The brine solution is typically made with salt or sodium.
The brine tank holds a salt solution that flushes the mineral tank, replacing calcium and
magnesium ions with sodium. Calcium and magnesium in water both carry positive
charges. This means that these minerals will cling to the beads as the hard water passes
through the mineral tank. Sodium ions also have positive charges, albeit not as strong as
the charge on the calcium and magnesium. When a very strong brine solution is flushed
through a tank that has beads already saturated with calcium and magnesium, the sheer
volume of the sodium ions is enough to drive the calcium and magnesium ions off the
beads. Water softeners have a separate brine tank that uses common salt to create this brine
solution.
Regeneration
In normal operation, hard water moves into the mineral tank and the calcium and
magnesium ions move to the beads, replacing sodium ions. The sodium ions go into the
water. Once the beads are saturated with calcium and magnesium, the unit enters a 3-phase
regenerating cycle. First, the backwash phase reverses water flow to flush dirt out of the
tank. In the recharge phase, the concentrated sodium-rich salt solution is carried from the
brine tank through the mineral tank. The sodium collects on the beads, replacing the
calcium and magnesium, which go down the drain. Once this phase is over, the mineral
tank is flushed of excess brine and the brine tank is refilled.
Test Performed to Ensure the Water Quality
Hardens Test
Iron Test
Silica Test
PH Test
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Utility Facilities
18.3.Standard Water Quality for Dye house
Parameter
Permissible
Concentrations
Color
Colorless
Smell
Odor less
Water Hardness
<5 ppm
PH Value
7-8
Dissolved Solid
<1 ppm
Inorganic Salt
<500 ppm
Iron
<0.1 ppm
Manganese
<0.01 ppm
Copper
< 0.005 ppm
Nitrate
<50 ppm
Nitrite
<5ppm
18.4.Compressed Air
In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Compressed air is generated with air compressor.
Machine Name
:SWAN Air Compressor
No. Of Compressor
:2
Manufacturer
Co. Ltd.
: Tong Chen Iron Works Manufacturer

Origin
Model
: SWP-415
Machine Name
Storage Tank
Capacity
Foam
Liquid
: Kashiwa Co Ltd.
: Japan
: 3.7 M
Max. Working Presser : 9kg/cm2
186 | P a g e
Utility Facilities
18.5.Steam
Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand of
steam in different sections. In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Steam is generated using 2 fire tube
boiler.
Boiler No-01:
Brand
Boiler No-2:
: Cochrn Boiler
Brand
: DMX1-900P
Manufacturer : Cochran Boiler Ltd. Manufacturer : Dapang Industry

Origin
: Scotland
Origin
: Korea
Capacity
: 10 ton
Capacity
: 9 ton
187 | P a g e
Conclusion
19 CHAPTER : CONCLUSION
188 | P a g e
Conclusion
Conclusion
I have completed my Industrial Training successfully by the grace of Allah.
Industrial Attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. N.A.Z. Bangladesh
Ltd. is a well know factory in the Textile field of Bangladesh. The completion of the two
months industrial attachment at this industry gave us the inspiration that factory is one of
the appropriate destiny to implement the theoretical knowledge. From this industrial
attachment we got the details idea about the factory environment , production process, total
management, store & inventory process, maintenance, utility etc.
N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. Is well equipped and the working environment is excellent. The
relation between top management to bottom level is so nice.
I am very lucky to get opportunity having training in this mill.
The factory runs by a number of efficient Textile Engineers, Skilled technical & nontechnical person. All the Textile Engineers, technical & non-technical person are very
sincere, co-operative and helpful.
We wish good luck of them and also for this factory.
19.1.Findings
Wonderful understanding between the top level management and the other employees and
operatops. Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes
the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this industrial training
taught us lot about textile technology, production processes, textile machineries, industrial
management, and made us comfortable to industrial life. Besides it gave us the first opportunity to work in industry.
189 | P a g e
Conclusion
19.2.Limitations
Because of secrecy act, the data of costing and marketing activities have not been supplied.
We had a very limited time. In spite of willingness to study in more details it was not possible to do so.
Some of the points in different chapters are not include as these were not available.
It is not possible to in compass the whole process in such a small frame as this report
19.3.Suggestions
Some automatic machines for dyeing lab, production and QC inspection should be there.
More lab facility should have in the lab including busting strength tester, automatic dye lab
dispenser, rotary store etc.
Supervisor or floor in-charge did not properly follow the program. So sometimes operators
deviate from the set procedure which may hamper the quality of the product.
During the transport of fabric and the loading of fabric in the machine, fabrics are soiled by
the contact with floor. This makes the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring and
bleaching agent or may create stain.
190 | P a g e
List of Firures
List of Figures:
Figure 4.1: Latch Needle ......................................................................................... 20
Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams per
running meter of fabric ............................................................................................ 42
Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed .................................................... 42
Figure 7.1: Cellulose, the polymer of cotton .............................................................. 61

Figure 7.2: Bifunctional reactive dye (Remazol Black B, DyStar) ................................ 63
Figure 7. 3: Dilmenlar Winch Dyeing m/c ................................................................. 64
Figure 7. 4: Cross sectional view of Dilmenler Dyeing m/c ......................................... 69
Figure 7. 5: Different valves used in Dilmenler winch Dyeing m/c ............................... 70
Figure 7.6: winch .................................................................................................... 71
Figure 7. 7: Dyeing Curve........................................................................................ 82
Figure 7. 8: DyeingCurve For Black color ................................................................. 87
Figure 7. 9: Dyenig Curve for Tequish color (Migration process)................................. 92
Figure 8. 1: fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c ..................................................... 104

Figure 8. 2: fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine ................................. 108
Figure 8. 3: Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c...................................................... 109
Figure 8. 4: Feraro open compactor......................................................................... 110
Figure 8. 5: fabric passage on open compactor ......................................................... 111
Figure 8. 6: Bruckner Stenter machine .................................................................... 112
Figure 8. 7: Brushing machne................................................................................. 118
Figure 11.1: Follow chart of ETP (Physicochemical) ......... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 11.2: Layout of ETP............................................................................................... 168
191 | P a g e
List of Firures
List of Tables
Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting ................................................................................ 13
Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd ................................................ 14
Table 3.3: Cost oy yarn ....................................................................................................... 14
Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices................................................................. 15
Table 4.1: Yarn Count in Direct system .............................................................................. 22

Table 4.2: Yarn Count in Indirect system ........................................................................... 23
Table 4.3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff ................................. 24
Table 4.4: Collar & Cuff measurements.............................................................................. 24
Table 4.5:Main Product - Fabrics :- .................................................................................... 26
Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needle
arrangement of knit fabric ................................................................................................... 27
Table 6.1: Amount salt and soda used depending on the shade % ...................................... 47
Table 7. 1Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers: ................. 61
Table 7. 2: Chemical composition of raw cotton: ............................................................... 62
Table 7. 3: Production Parameters :..................................................................................... 65
Table 7.4: Dyes, Chemicals & Cuxiliaries Use in N.A.Z:................................................... 76
Table 8.1: List of machine in Finishing Section........................................................ 100

Table 8. 2: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer: ........................ 102
Table 8. 3: Dia extenion on tube squeezer m/c ......................................................... 104
Table 8. 4: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer: ........................... 105
Table 8. 5: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor: ............... 107
Table 8. 6: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of stenter machine: ...................... 112
Table 8. 7: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Ultra soft m/c .......................... 115
192 | P a g e
List of Firures
Table 8.8: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Brushing m/c: .......................... 116
Table 9- 1: Faults of fabrics at finishing section ............ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Table 10.1: Cost of Dyeing and Finishing of knit fabric ............................................ 162
Table 11.1: Discharge quality of treated waste water in N.A.Z. .................................. 169
193 | P a g e
List of Tables
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SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

Department of Textile Engineering

Name:N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.

1 CHAPTER : PROJECT DESCRIPTION

Layout of N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd.

3 STD OFFICE AND

House #21 , Road # 13, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212

880-2-9861831, 9860445, 8854101 Extn: 128 / 156

[email protected], [email protected]; [email protected];

5, Bishuya Kuribari Bari, Mirzapur, Rajendrapur, Gazipur-1700

45~50 minutes drive from

Airport to towards North

Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director)

Mr. Salauddin Jakir (Merchandising Manger)

: 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.

Legal Form of Company

: Private Limited Company.

Name of the Bank

: T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank tock, Jacket, Trousers,

: 3 (Three) Shift Per Day

Dyeing & Finishing : 16 Tons/Day

: 25,000 Pcs/ Day

1.4.Yearly Turn Over

Turn Over (Per Year)

Sewing Thread Dyeing

Main Buyers of N.A.Z. Bangladesh LTD:

USA, CANADA, MEXICO

1.7.Vision & mission of the project:

Man Power Management

2 CHAPTER : MAN POWER MANAGEMENT

Man Power Management

Finishing & Q.C Manager

Sr. Production Officer

Sr. Production Officer

Assist. Production Officer

Assist. Production Officer

Man Power Management

Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.

6:00 am- 2:00 pm

10:00 pm- 6:00 am

2.3.Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post

To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.

To supervise the personal working under him.

Man Power Management

Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

Senior Production Officer

Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

To follow the workers movement.

3 CHAPTER: RAW MATERIALS

Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting

Basher spinning mill

Kamal spinning mill

Prime Spinning mill

Aman spinning mill

Fariha spinning mill

Shohagpur spinning mill

AKIJ Spinning mill

Amber cotton mill