DMT Extraccion
DMT Extraccion
historical document. The process as described has been critiqued as flawed and
dangerous several ways. Safer and more effective DMT extraction and purification
techniques have been developed and made available in the years since the
document below was created. For one such process, see Noman's "DMT for the
Masses".
Specific concerns regarding QT's tek, detailed below, were sent to Erowid on behalf
of the community at The DMT Nexus, who note: "Time and time again, people have
come to The DMT Nexus or other web forums because they were following QT's tek
and it either didn't work or they ran into serious issues trying to follow it. Our largest
concerns with QT's tek are related to health and safety. Throughout the tek,
comments on safely handling chemicals are scant. If we've learned one thing, it's that
people doing extractions by following a tek as though it's a recipe often are not
sticklers for proper handling and safety. Following the tek as it is written could lead to
serious bodily harm, it may not successfully extract DMT, and even if some
DMT is obtained, there is a strong possibility of it being contaminated with toxic
substances." Erowid is grateful to be able to share the detailed commentary and
harm-reduction efforts of The DMT Nexus folks. -- The Erowid Crew, February 4,
2011
Health and Safety Concerns
1) The tek recommends using hydrochloric acid without appropriate guidance on safe
handling. While it also mentions other acids, HCl is specifically recommended.
However, weaker acids like citric acid or vinegar are preferable alternatives because
they can be handled more safely and are readily available at grocery stores.
2) While the tek mentions the health hazards of working with dichloromethane (DCM),
it fails to note the flammability hazards of naphtha and ether. It likewise does not
mention the intoxication hazards from the fumes, which necessitate minimizing
contact and using them in a well-ventilated and spark-free area (and some fans that
one might use for ventilation could have the potential ofcreating sparks).
3) The tek describes a method for obtaining ether from starting fluid. This method will
generally not obtain pure ether. Unless the extractor has a good working knowledge
of chemistry and has consulted the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the
specific starter fluid, this could easily lead to very unhealthy contaminants in one's
end product. The tek specifically mentions Coleman fuel, Zippo lighter fluid, and
Ronsonol, all of which have been reported to contain non-volatile contaminants.
Particularly since the tek instructs the extractor to obtain the final product by
evaporation, this seriously needs to be addressed to prevent people from unwittingly
smoking harmful contaminants.
4) No health and safety warnings are provided with regard to chloroform, which may
be carcinogenic and can have other negative health effects if not handled properly.
5) Suggesting that people employ ziploc bags as separatory funnels is hazardous in a
couple of ways. Such bags are not made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE), a
plastic known to have a high resistance to chemical solvents. Ziploc bags contain
plasticizers (additives that increase flexibility, and that have been implicated in
adverse effects on health when consumed), which would likely leach into naphtha;
and since the naphtha is being evaporated, these plasticizers will end up in the
extracted DMT. While the tek does suggest making sure that the solvent used doesn't
melt the bag, this ignores the likelihood that it may leach harmful contaminants. (The
concerned if these take several days to resolve, and that it's near-miraculous for an
emulsions to resolve in less than an hour. This is insanity. Emulsions can be
prevented by ensuring sufficiently high pH and by mixing gently (rather than shaking,
as the tek suggests). The addition of plain salt may be employed as a further
preventative measure.
7) The tek suggests that the final product may contain "hydroxide". Hydroxide is not a
molecule, it's an ion. It is possible that the product could contain sodium hydroxide or
other hydroxide salts, but neither of the recommended methods for eliminating the
"hydroxide" would help at all if the product actually were contaminated with sodium
hydroxide or another hydroxide salt.
Practical Issues
1) The pH for step 2 is unnecessarily low. While pH 2 won't hurt anything, it's a waste
of materials.
2) Ridiculously long times are presented for the aqueous acidic extraction. The tek
recommends 24 hours for the first soak, and a whole week for subsequent soaks. In
reality, simmering 15-30 minutes three times will get most of the DMT out of the
MHRB and into solution. There is no need to spend two weeks; this step can be done
in two hours or faster.
3) The tek recommends defatting, even though it is designed for use with MHRB,
which is not a fatty material. This is a waste of solvent and time.
4) Step 7 says to add warm naphtha to the acidic MHRB extract and shake it for five
minutes before adding lye. This won't accomplish anything.
5) The tek says to repeat steps 7-9 two more times. In step 8, one is told to add 5
grams of lye to the mix. Is the tek really suggesting that this step is also supposed to
be repeated, with more lye added each time? Of course, that extra lye isn't going to
hurt--on the contrary, it will likely bring the pH up into a more practical range than the
tek (seems to) recommend. But why is the tek suggesting that one add more base
prior to each extraction with nonpolar solvent, instead of adding all that one is going
to use at one time? We suspect that this is just an artifact of poor phrasing on the
part of the tek's author.
6) The tek calls for using way too much naphtha for extractions, suggesting 100 ml
per pull for 30 grams of MHRB. A tenth of that would be sufficient.
7) In "Lab Notes" under step 6, the tek suggests that one should be saving the
naphtha from the defatting process, but discarding the DMT-laden naphtha from the
later steps. Why would one want to save the (practically non-existent) fats from
MHRB but throw away the DMT?
8) "You will know when DMT is in the final product by the smell." This is an odd
statement, since DMT is supposed to be the final product, not merely be contained in
it.
9) Outdated info: The tek suggests using Red Devil lye; however, the manufacturer of
this brand discontinued production in 2005.
10) The three sets of "Lab Notes" from QT's extraction record that the extractions
took 24 days, 39 days, and 61 days. Yikes! A quick and effective acid/base extraction
can be completely finished in 24 hours (and that includes time for freezeprecipitations); a big, leisurely (and frankly, unnecessarily long) acid/base
extraction (BLAB) is still done in a week. From a legal standpoint, it seems prudent to
complete an extraction as quickly as possible so that--if worse comes to worst--the
extractor is only on the hook for possession of a controlled substance and not for
manufacture as well.
11) The tek is written for MHRB with lye as the base and naphtha as the non-polar
solvent; yet it implies that it would be just as effective for Phalaris grasses with
chloroform as the solvent. Unfortunately, different factors need to be taken into
account for different plants and solvents. Getting clean DMT out of Phalaris grasses,
in particular, is a massive chore, requiring its own specialized tek.
Minor Gripes
1) Measuring pH with beets and cabbage? Seriously? That's pretty ghetto. Litmus
papers and pH monitors are fairly cheap if one cared to measure the pH. And with
MHRB, it's not necessary; a dash of acid is fine for the initial extraction, and MHRB
provides its own handy color-changing reaction when enough base has been added.
2) Multiple times, the tek refers to "naptha" instead of naphtha.
"It lasted for a million years and for a split-second. But it's over and now it's your
turn." -Timothy Leary
Name:
N,N-Dimethyltryptamine
N,N-Dimethyl-1H-indole-3Chemical Name:
ethanamine
Alternative
3-[2-(dimethylamino)ethyle]indole,
Chemical Names: DMT
Chemical Formula: C12H 16N2
Molecular Weight: 188.27
Melting Point:
Boiling Point:
Dosages:
44.6-44.8 (crystals)
60-80 (crystals)
60-100 mg (smoking)
350 mg (orally)
Controlled substance (hallucinogen) U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21 Part 1308.11 (1985).
In modern times there has been a reduction of ritual. The ceremonies, that
previously served to cast out an individual from modern associations and throw
him into a field of epiphanies, have become merely form, betraying the inner
forces that must somehow manifest. Shamen know of these inner forces. They
understand the inevitable overwhelming psychological experience that everyone
will face if they are to complete their inward path to open the unconscious and fall
in. The psychological crisis is the fulcrum of any metaphysical realization the
individual may have about himself or his world. Without these intense
experiences, without the rituals that convey the message of the journey, and
without shamen to show the way, many are lost in the world searching constantly
farther for what is contained only within. To chemically force such spiritual
breakthrough may be interpreted by some as a way to circumvent the trials that
are necessary to test each soul willing to see the truth of their life. But in
contemporary society where is the individual to seek these tests of the self or to
be struck silent in awe of their own natural beauty or that of the universe? The
shamen offered these opportunities to the individuals of their society for
generations, helping people maintain a healthy psychology between the known
world and the mystical. I now offer this ability to you in one of many forms,
DMT.
DMT is perhaps the most powerful hallucinogen known to man. It is related to
LSD and psilocybin. There are no [commonly used - Erowid] drug tests that
would show DMT usage. None of the basic NIDA-5 drug tests [Erowid Note: Now
called the "SAMHSA-5"] or any extended drug test will show a result for
DMT. DMT is naturally formed in the body and has been found in abnormal
levels in the body fluids of persons suffering from schizophrenia. DMT is almost
never sold through dealers, rarely synthesized, and seldom used. It is, however,
easily extracted from common plant materials and has been used in various forms
for hundreds of years (timeline). DMT is not a "social drug" however. Respect the
drug and its incredible potential. This drug is not for the inexperienced, nor is it
recommended to those who are just looking for another "high." Few seek the
visions enabled through DMT, and even fewer return to them. Even avid
psychedelic users have had frightening experiences with DMT on their first
encounter with the drug. Take care to research and find out if DMT is for you. I
stress that educating yourself about this drug (and about all drugs you intend to
use) will make you a more competent and prepared chemist, tripper, and guide.
This manual is presented as a quick bench guide for the complete novice on how
to extract DMT. Although the text and illustrations for the process were all
created by myself, there are a few pictures which are not my own. The origins of
these pictures are credited in the bibliography. I would like to encourage others
to add to this manual their own written observations. When attempting to
produce any of these products the reader is encouraged to read through the steps
several times to closely familiarize himself with the entire process. Please take
note that DMT is an illegal substance in the United States of America and is
Acacia bark
0.71%
NNDMT
0.36%
NNDMT
0.86%
NNDMT
0.57%
NNDMT
0.44%
NNDMT
0.34%
NNDMT
1.06%
5-MeODMT
Desmanthus illinoensis
root (bark)
Pilocarpus organensis
Phalaris tuberosa
NNDMT
5-MeO0.022%
DMT
5-OH0.005%
DMT
0.10%
0.060%
??
NNDMT
5-MeODMT
Psychotria
species (averaged, from Jonathan
Ott)
0.200%
N,N-DMT
5-MeO-DMT
5-OH-DMT
MAOI
NNDMT
Extraction Procedure
For our experiment we will be using Mimosa hostilis root-bark to
provide a very pure product of NN-DMT without the over
powering influence of 5-MeO-DMT or the negative side effects of
5-OH-DMT. For a solvent we will be using common
naphtha. Notes on adaptations for chemicals and other
variations of this process are described as well. The following is
a list of materials:
It helps to test all non glass materials with solvents to make sure there aren't any adverse
reactions.
STEP 1
Preparing Plant Material
STEP 2
Acidify Water to pH 2
Lab Notes:
Proper method of testing pH with pH
papers; Use a glass stirring rod (or
something that won't corrode with acid)
to stir the acidic solution. Dab the pH
paper with the stirring rod lightly. To
save pH paper, you can cut only a
small section of strip for a single test. If
a pH meter or pH papers are
unavailable there are certain organic
sources that
produce antocyanines which change
color with different pH ranges. Red
beats or red cabbage may be used to
Figure 1
STEP 3
Convert Alkaloids to Salts
Using a pipette (or turkey baster) transfer
enough acidified water from Jar A into Jar B to
cover the root-bark in the bottom of Jar B (~8
ounces, or 250 ml acidified water into Jar
B.) When the acid reacts with the root-bark, it
converts the alkaloids (elf-spice) into salts. To
help facilitate this process we can:
A Periodically
. shake the
contents of
the
jar. This
helps more
root-bark
come in
contact with
the acid.
B The weaker
. the acid,
the longer it
Figure 2
should be
heated
for. Do not
allow
evaporation
of the liquid
inside. Do
not
boil. Maint
ain
temperatur
e below 50
C or 122
F. Since
we are
using pickle
jars, and
not pyrex,
they can
shatter
easily if
heated or
cooled too
quickly. It
is
recommend
ed using a
double
boiler with
hot (not
boiling)
water to
warm the
solution. T
o cool,
simply turn
off the heat
source and
allow the
solution to
slowly
return to
room
temperatur
e.
1 When
. using
muratic
acid,
heat the
jar for
15-30
minutes
.
When
using
weaker
acids,
2 simmer
. the
content
s
overnig
ht.
Allow the contents of the jar 24 hours to react
the first time. The alkaloids (tryptamines) are
converted into salts and become water
soluble. Our elf-spice is now contained in the
aqueous solution.
STEP 4
Filtration
Plug the bottom of the funnel with cotton balls or
cotton cloth to create a cotton-filter. Pour the
contents of Jar B through the funnel and intoJar
C. Squeeze the root-bark contents inside the filter
to press out the remaining juices. Save the rootbark that has been caught by the filter and place it
back into Jar B.
Lab Notes:
Figure 3
Whether
filtering
material
through a
cotton-filter
or a coffee
filter it helps
if the thinner
parts of the
solution are
filtered first,
followed by
the mushy
and more
bulky
components
(which may
clog the
pores of
your filters
as you
strain.) The
better your
filtration, the
more rapid
and efficient
your
emulsions,
also
resulting in
a cleaner
product. Co
tton must be
specifically
used. Other
fibers have
the potential
to react with
our
solvents. A
tea strainer
(wire strain)
can be a
simple way
to separate
bulk
ruffage. An
other way to
improve this
method is to
use a
vacuum
filter. There
are several
varieties,
the most
affordable
being a tapwater
aspirator
'pump' that
attaches to
a household
faucet and
connects to
filter.
SeeWikiped
ia:
Aspirator.
These cost
about
$30.00 (in
2001) and
are very
quick,
useful and
effective.
STEP 5
Collect 3 Extractions
Place
several
paperfilters
A (coffee
. filters)
in the
bottom
of the
funnel.
Strain
content
s of Jar
C throu
B gh the
. paperfilters
and
into Jar
B.
When
finished
C
,
.
clean J
ar C.
Figure 4
Lab Notes:
The majority of the alkaloids we are
searching for will convert to salts in the
first extraction phase. The second and
third extraction phases take place over a
longer period of time. This will ensure
that we will be able to extract as
many alkaloids as possible from our
material. The third phase can be
reduced to 1-2 days but will not produce
the best yields. Remember, these
measurements are all crude estimates.
STEP 6
Defatting
Figure 5
Naphtha
Defatting process
Lab Notes:
A separatory funnel is very handy for
dividing and eliminating layers of
solutions. This device consists of a single
chamber with a tapered bottom. On the
bottom is a closed faucet. The container is
filled with the two solutions and they are
mixed. After mixing, the apparatus is set
aside until both fluids separate into two
distinct layers. The lower fraction of the
fluids can be drained via the bottom faucet
and into a container for preservation (in this
extraction when using naptha during the
defatting process) or to discard (in this
extraction when using naptha during the
basification process). A quick separatory
funnel can be made by filling a Ziplock
plastic baggie with your mixtures, and
hanging it from one corner. When the
layers have separated, the bottom corner of
the bag is pinched and then cut for
drainage. It is suggested to test the baggie
to make sure your solvents will not melt it.
STEP 7
Prepare to Basify
In this step we will be preparing the solution for the alkaloids migration using a
common organic non-polar solvent. For our solvent we will use warm naphtha
(other solvents are identified in STEP 6.)
Add to Jar B 100 ml (~3 ounces) warm naphtha. Shake the jar for 5 minutes.
STEP 8
Basify to pH 9
Now we must basify our solution. By
doing this we will "unhook" the salt and
transform the alkaloid into its "free base"
form. The alkaloidswill no longer be a
salt, nor will they be soluble in
water. This allows us to extract them
with the organic solvent added in STEP
7. Ammonium hydroxide is normally
used, but for our experiment we will be
using NaOH found in household lye
crystals (Red Devil drain cleaner) and
purchased at hardware stores. Lye is
very caustic and can react
violently. Take the proper precautions
when using lye.
A good mixture for basifying is 5g (~0.2
ounces) lye mixed with 95g (~3 ounces)
distilled water. The reason we dilute the
base is to prevent localized pH spikes
which will destroy the alkaloids in the
area that we are adding the concentrated
base. Create a basic mixture as follows:
Figure 6
STEP 9
Emulsions
Thick emulsion
A. Sometimes
adding a lot of
salt and gentle
stirring will
make the polar
layer more polar
and help with
emulsions.
B. Add more
organic solvent.
C. Filter solutions
again through a
cotton filter
several
times. A paper
filter will not
work.
D. Test and
increase the
pH.
E. In most cases
the solvent
layer will have
slight tint or
may sometimes
appear
completely
clear. If you
want an early
test of your
extraction
simply
Figure 7
evaporate a
small amount in
a glass
dish. The
residue left
should smell a
bit synthetic (a
smell like
plastic.) This
smell is a trait of
your tryptamine.
The naphtha will create a thick
orange/pink emulsion with small bubbles
that sometimes takes over 48 hours to
separate. Always wait a few days before
trying other methods to break down the
emulsion. Keeping the naphtha warm
will increase the amount of alkaloids it
carries with it during each extraction. To
help keep the jar warm, place it in a pot
surrounded by warm water. Naphtha
floats. If DCM is used for our extraction
solvent in STEP 7, we will have a faster
resolving emulsion than naphtha (less
than an hour in some cases.) The
solvent may turn a slightly darker color,
usually only a tint of reddish-brown or
yellow. DCM sinks. Allow a minimum of
24 hours for the contents of the jar to
react completely. If using methanol allow
a minimum of 4 days warmed to roomtemperature for reactions to complete.
Using a pipette remove the
corresponding solvent layer from Jar
B and save it in Jar A.
STEP 10
Final Alkaloid Extraction and Evaporation
Lab Notes:
After DCM has evaporated your
product may contain trace amounts
of hydroxide. Some find hydroxide
to be unpleasant in the final
product. To help reduce this try
washing the DMT crystals in water,
2000 Erowid.org
2000 Erowid.org
2000 Erowid.org
Photos of DMT crystals taken from Erowid.org
Materials
1. 25g mimosa hostilis root-bark
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Distilled Water
6. Coffee Filter and Cotton T-Shirt
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish and Turkey Baster
10. Cooking Pot
11. Lighter Fluid
Day 1:
Day 2:
litmus.)
Day 3:
Day 4:
Day 5:
Added the 25g root-bark to the bottom of jar B. Then the baster
was used to pour enough acidified water to just cover the rootbark. Then jar B was capped and shook vigorously for 10
minutes. While shaking the jar it began to foam up with pink
foam. Then the jar rest for a couple hours. The contents of the
jar broke into 3 layers. The top was pink foam. The middle was
a very very dark red (burgundy) color. Light didn't seem to pass
through it very well at all. The bottom layer was a lighter red
sediment.
The dark red color of the top layer of liquid has now turned
almost black it seems. No light passes through it.
It was decided to heat the solution for several hours in an
attempt to speed up the process. The jar and it's contents were
propped up on a porcelain stand inside a cooking pot. To this
pot was added enough water to surround the pickle jar. The lid
to the pickle jar was made finger tight so that the contents could
not evaporate but still allow pressure to escape. For roughly 3
hours the mixture sat in very warm water (not
boiling.) Occasionally one would lift the jar, and shake the
contents before placing it back on the stand. Afterwards the heat
source was turned off and the water and the pickle jar contents
cooled to room temperature.
A funnel was placed in the empty jar A. Inside the funnel was
placed a cotton T-shirt filter. In jar B the root-bark and the
solution had formed two layers. This made it easier to sift the
smaller particles through the filter before the larger particles
clogged the pores of the filter. After the filter was full of sediment
I took the edges of the filter and twisted to squeeze any
remaining liquid into the second jar. The process was repeated
until the jar B was empty. Then jar C was filled with roughly 2/3
filtered water, and was added roughly 5ml of muratic acid. The
cotton filters were opened again, and the sediments they held
were poured back into the jar B.
Both jars were capped tightly and checked for leaks
again. Needless to say anytime one is working with these
chemicals one should wear thick gloves and the proper eye and
body protection.
Day 6:
Day 9:
Acidified water from jar C was siphoned with a turkey baster into
jar B until the water covered the sediments. The contents of the
jar were again left to sit in warm water, this time about 30
minutes.
Strained aqueous solution and collected. Added acidic water to
remaining plant material. Simmered for 30 minutes.
Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown
away. Solution was strained 3 times through coffee filters.
Naphtha (Lighter Fuel) was added. About 100 ml. The jar was
shaken vigorously for ~10 minutes, resulting in a thick bubbly
solution. This was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24 hours
the top layer resembles water with a few drops of milk
added. There is also a layer of translucent pink scum. This this
is the nasty stuff we want to get rid of.
To remove the naphtha layer (top layer) it was agreed that it
would be best to siphon the bottom layer out of the jar and save
it, instead, then clean out the jar containing the remaining nasty
naphtha stuff. Using a plastic turkey baster we slowly squeezed
the bulb as it passed through the layers into the jar. This forced
small bubbles to pour from the nozzle, and prevented any
naphtha from entering the baster before we could suck up the
bottom layer.
After removing the naphtha, the remaining contents were again
filtered once through a paper coffee filter.
Day 10:
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an
empty jar.. About 100 ml water for 1 teaspoon (5ml?) lye
crystals. The jar was shaken, and stirred and made sure all the
lye crystals had dissolved. This was added slowly to the jar
containing our main solution.
After 4 teaspoons of base solution, the mixture changed from a
burgundy red to a very grayish blue color. The pH was tested
and found to be 7.
After 8 teaspoons of base solution the mixture has turned a
darker gray color. The pH tested was ~10.
After 10 teaspoons of base solution the mixture changed from
gray to very inky black. There is a lot of foam. The pH tested
was found to be ~11-12.
Day 11:
Day 12:
Day 13:
Day 14:
After 1 hour the contents were strained 3 times through a cottonfilter and the emulsions were allowed to separate. There was a
dramatic improvement after filtration. The top layer of naphtha
was removed and saved. Another 100 ml naphtha was added
and the jar was heated again for perhaps another hour. The best
technique to mixing the two solutions does not seem to be
shaking or stirring. Instead, very slowly tip the jar end over end
repeatedly for several minutes. This produces an emulsion that
settles in about 2-3 hours time.
Day 15:
The contents of the jar were heated and mixed slowly for a
period of 2 hours. Afterwards the top layer was saved and
another 100 ml naphtha was added. Again the jar was heated
and stirred for a few hours. The solvent layer was removed and
placed with the rest of the previous solvent fractions.
Day 16:
The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking
dish and set aside for evaporation.
Day 17-20: 3 day evaporation process. Bottom of dish there appears small
yellow/orange crystal formations, circular in pattern, about 23mm across.
Some of the outer edges of the crystals have dried a bit. The
Day 21:
larger crystals still seem wet.
Day 22:
The entire dish was scraped with a razor. The crystals bunched
together and dissolved into a caramel gum like substance. This
substance was smeared across a 3X5 note card.
The brownish goo has dried up and reveals a more crystalline
Day 23:
structure. This was scrapped off using an exacto knife.
Day 24:
Elf-spice hyperspace. The experiment was a success.
LAB #2
Materials
1. 25g Phalaris arundinacea (rather dry, note this grass contains 5-MeO
alkaloids as well)
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Lighter Fluid
6. Cotton Balls
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish, turkey baster, cooking pot
Day 1:
Day 3:
Day 4-11:
Day 12:
Day 19:
Day 26:
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
Day 28:
A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an
empty jar. This was added slowly to the jar containing our main
solution. The pH was now ~11. The jar was slowly stirred for
several hours while heated.
Day 29-31: After the emulsion had cleared the top layer of naphtha was
collected and more naphtha added to the original mixture. This
was done 3 times.
Day 39:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Materials
45g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark
Muriatic Acid
Litmus Papers
Lye
Ronsonal Lighter Fluid
Cotton Filter
Separatory Funnel
Pyrex Dish and Stove
Day 1:
Day 2:
Day 60:
Day 61:
Ingrediants were cut with scissors and places in coffee grinder for
pulverizing. The contents were then placed in pyrex dish with
cover. Dish was placed on gas stove and allowed to boil. After
boil was achieved the stove was turned off. Periodically the stove
was turned on to apply heat to the dish. After 20 minutes the
biomass was strained. Placed biomass back into the dish and
repeated twice..
Added Ronsonal lighter fluid about equal to existing volume,
covered jar and shook. Result was massive emulsion. Let sit for
two months.. A muddly silt formed on the bottom of the jar. I'm
guessing it's from not filtering finely enough.
Separated bottom liquid layer using 1 L sep funnel into a clean jar,
and discarded top layer. (Thought I'd try de-fatting once. It
doesn't seem worth it with MHRB. Probably won't do it in the
future.)
I previously prepared a mixture of Red Devil Lye and distilled
water. It takes a while to fully dissolve the pellets. Again added
about the same amount of naptha as I had liquid, and then added
basic solution while stirring to a pH of 11.6. While shaking, I
noticed it forming a vacuum, and periodically vented. I'm not sure
of the mechanism there. I let it settle, then separated, saving the
bottom layer for 2nd and third extractions, and top layer for
drying. Drying Tip: get a 4 inch fan, and lay it on top of the pyrex
dish, and it will dry overnight
BIBLIOGRAPHY
The Vaults of Erowid: www.erowid.org
Perhaps the best collection of information on the internet about chemicals and
plants for anyone new to drugs. Within this document I have reprinted several
smaller pictures found from their website. Although I asked permission, I was
never sent a response, but here I credit their wonderful database and used the
pictures anyway.
Color photo of a large ultrapure DMT crystal, grown in 1996. The crystal is
approximately 1 inch across.
Anonymous Photographer. Used by Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal1.jpg
Color photo of a pile of DMT crystals extracted with Naptha.
Photo by Bucwheat. 2000 Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal2.jpg
Color photo of a small vial full of N,N-DMT crystals.
Anonymous Photographer. 2000 Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt2.jpg
Color photo of a collection of rootbark pieces layed out on a plate.
Photo by Murple. 2000 Erowid.
/plants/show_image.php?i=mimosa/mimosa_hostilis6.jpg
Psychedelic Shamanism The Cultivation, Preparation and Shamanic Use of
Psychotropic Plants.
DeKorne, Jim. (1994)
Publisher : Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN : 1-55950-110-3
Color photo of grass growing outdoors. (Pictured as found on Erowid.)
/plants/show_image.php?i=phalaris/images/archive/phalaris_arundinacea1.jpg
Rhodium - an informative element: Rhodium
A collection of highly technical information. I humble myself before the knowlege
they posess.
rhodium/chemistry/equipment/ph-indicator.html
Ayahuasca Analogues: Pangaen Entheogens.
Ott, Jonathan. (1994).
Kennewick, WA: Natural Products.
ISBN: 0-9614234-5-5
Tryptamines I Have Known And Loved: The Chemistry Continues.
By Alexander and Ann Shulgin.
Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences.
Vol. 56, page 1526.
Thanks to:
Dr. Foss
Pryor
Gumby
Placenta_Juan
baalchemist
neuron
(Part 2)
MagikVenom
Saguaro
willytell
jane
GravNet
Meeker
Mike
Gupta
Malachi
D-4138
NoRezz
Jack Tripper
And all those who have helped expand and add to this piece of literature. I am in
debt to all those within the beautiful community who have helped create this fine
guide. Feel free to add to this your own written observations, dreams, or thoughts
on these topics.
Revision History #
o
o
o
v1.1.3 - Feb 4 2011 - Erowid & the community at The DMT Nexus - Added "Note of Warning" including a
detailed critique of this tek from the folks at The DMT Nexus.