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DMT Extraccion

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100% found this document useful (3 votes)
17K views33 pages

DMT Extraccion

cebil colorado argentina

Uploaded by

Gonzalo Cavolo
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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NOTE OF WARNING: QT's DMT Extraction for Students is archived by Erowid as a

historical document. The process as described has been critiqued as flawed and
dangerous several ways. Safer and more effective DMT extraction and purification
techniques have been developed and made available in the years since the
document below was created. For one such process, see Noman's "DMT for the
Masses".
Specific concerns regarding QT's tek, detailed below, were sent to Erowid on behalf
of the community at The DMT Nexus, who note: "Time and time again, people have
come to The DMT Nexus or other web forums because they were following QT's tek
and it either didn't work or they ran into serious issues trying to follow it. Our largest
concerns with QT's tek are related to health and safety. Throughout the tek,
comments on safely handling chemicals are scant. If we've learned one thing, it's that
people doing extractions by following a tek as though it's a recipe often are not
sticklers for proper handling and safety. Following the tek as it is written could lead to
serious bodily harm, it may not successfully extract DMT, and even if some
DMT is obtained, there is a strong possibility of it being contaminated with toxic
substances." Erowid is grateful to be able to share the detailed commentary and
harm-reduction efforts of The DMT Nexus folks. -- The Erowid Crew, February 4,
2011
Health and Safety Concerns
1) The tek recommends using hydrochloric acid without appropriate guidance on safe
handling. While it also mentions other acids, HCl is specifically recommended.
However, weaker acids like citric acid or vinegar are preferable alternatives because
they can be handled more safely and are readily available at grocery stores.
2) While the tek mentions the health hazards of working with dichloromethane (DCM),
it fails to note the flammability hazards of naphtha and ether. It likewise does not
mention the intoxication hazards from the fumes, which necessitate minimizing
contact and using them in a well-ventilated and spark-free area (and some fans that
one might use for ventilation could have the potential ofcreating sparks).
3) The tek describes a method for obtaining ether from starting fluid. This method will
generally not obtain pure ether. Unless the extractor has a good working knowledge
of chemistry and has consulted the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the
specific starter fluid, this could easily lead to very unhealthy contaminants in one's
end product. The tek specifically mentions Coleman fuel, Zippo lighter fluid, and
Ronsonol, all of which have been reported to contain non-volatile contaminants.
Particularly since the tek instructs the extractor to obtain the final product by
evaporation, this seriously needs to be addressed to prevent people from unwittingly
smoking harmful contaminants.
4) No health and safety warnings are provided with regard to chloroform, which may
be carcinogenic and can have other negative health effects if not handled properly.
5) Suggesting that people employ ziploc bags as separatory funnels is hazardous in a
couple of ways. Such bags are not made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE), a
plastic known to have a high resistance to chemical solvents. Ziploc bags contain
plasticizers (additives that increase flexibility, and that have been implicated in
adverse effects on health when consumed), which would likely leach into naphtha;
and since the naphtha is being evaporated, these plasticizers will end up in the
extracted DMT. While the tek does suggest making sure that the solvent used doesn't
melt the bag, this ignores the likelihood that it may leach harmful contaminants. (The

suggestion to use a "turkey baster" may present a similar problem, depending on


what type of plastic it is constructed from.) Furthermore, there's a very good chance
of spilling caustic chemicals if the ziploc bag fails to work as anticipated.
6) The tek calls for "warm naphtha" on multiple occasions, but makes no mention of
how to go about safely warming this flamable solvent. If unwary extractors were to
heat it on a gas stove, they could easily find themselves with a fireball in their face!
7) The tek does not present sufficient safety warnings regarding lye (sodium
hydroxide). "Take proper precautions" is not specific enough advice. When working
with lye, one should wear shatter-resistant anti-fog safety goggles, chemical-resistant
(nitrile) safety gloves, a vapor/fluid-resistant face mask, and a polyethylene safety
apron, to prevent blindness and chemical burns. One should also have an acid such
as vinegar on-hand to neutralize any possible lye spills.
8) The tek recommends obtaining the DMT by evaporating-off the naphtha. Before it
was widely known that purification could be performed via freeze-precipitation, this
might have been excusable, if not for the fact that many of the tek's recommended
varieties of naphtha include non-volatile contaminants, and the tek suggests
employing non-HDPE plastics. Considering the processes recommended in the tek,
any DMT obtained by evaporation is reasonably likely to be tainted with harmful
contaminants and would not be safe to consume. The tek acknowledges that the
product will be impure, but provides no information on purifying it. Indeed, it explicitly
seems to recommend consuming it, impurities and all. And "Don't worry about
weighing it" is bad advice, plain and simple.
Technical Errors
1) Incorrect terminology is used in step 3. One is not converting the DMT to a salt; it's
already a salt in the plant material. And, of course, the ions dissociate when salts
dissolve. The step might be more appropriately titled "Dissolving DMT Cations in
Water", or at least "Dissolving Salts of DMT".
2) Incorrect terminology is used in step 8. One is not unhooking the DMT salts
(they're in solution, so they aren't really hooked together at all). One is actually
deprotonating the DMT cations to generate the free-base.
3) QT suggests that ammonia is typically used to basify, and that this tek's use of lye
is a departure from the norm. However, ammonia is not an effective base for Mimosa
tenuiflora [= M. hostilis] root-bark (MHRB). All one will get is a stubborn emulsion.
4) The recommended pH after adding the base is too low; pH 9 is not high enough.
With MHRB in particular there are serious emulsion issues at pH 9; but even ignoring
that, pH 9 is only 0.32 above the pK a (-log10 acid dissociation constant) of DMT--not
terribly efficient.
5) The tek states that it is ideal to extract an alkaloid at its pK a. This not necessarily
true. At its pKa, half of the alkaloid is protonated and the other half unprotonated. In
ideal conditions (i.e., assuming infinite solubility in the nonpolar extraction solvent),
this is sufficient since Le Chtelier's principle is on one's side. But unless there are
instability-related complications or other factors to account for, it's better to have the
vast majority of the alkaloid in the desired form (in this case, unprotonated)-especially with MHRB, where emulsions are a crucial issue.
6) The tek treats emulsions as though they are inevitable, that one should not be

concerned if these take several days to resolve, and that it's near-miraculous for an
emulsions to resolve in less than an hour. This is insanity. Emulsions can be
prevented by ensuring sufficiently high pH and by mixing gently (rather than shaking,
as the tek suggests). The addition of plain salt may be employed as a further
preventative measure.
7) The tek suggests that the final product may contain "hydroxide". Hydroxide is not a
molecule, it's an ion. It is possible that the product could contain sodium hydroxide or
other hydroxide salts, but neither of the recommended methods for eliminating the
"hydroxide" would help at all if the product actually were contaminated with sodium
hydroxide or another hydroxide salt.
Practical Issues
1) The pH for step 2 is unnecessarily low. While pH 2 won't hurt anything, it's a waste
of materials.
2) Ridiculously long times are presented for the aqueous acidic extraction. The tek
recommends 24 hours for the first soak, and a whole week for subsequent soaks. In
reality, simmering 15-30 minutes three times will get most of the DMT out of the
MHRB and into solution. There is no need to spend two weeks; this step can be done
in two hours or faster.
3) The tek recommends defatting, even though it is designed for use with MHRB,
which is not a fatty material. This is a waste of solvent and time.
4) Step 7 says to add warm naphtha to the acidic MHRB extract and shake it for five
minutes before adding lye. This won't accomplish anything.
5) The tek says to repeat steps 7-9 two more times. In step 8, one is told to add 5
grams of lye to the mix. Is the tek really suggesting that this step is also supposed to
be repeated, with more lye added each time? Of course, that extra lye isn't going to
hurt--on the contrary, it will likely bring the pH up into a more practical range than the
tek (seems to) recommend. But why is the tek suggesting that one add more base
prior to each extraction with nonpolar solvent, instead of adding all that one is going
to use at one time? We suspect that this is just an artifact of poor phrasing on the
part of the tek's author.
6) The tek calls for using way too much naphtha for extractions, suggesting 100 ml
per pull for 30 grams of MHRB. A tenth of that would be sufficient.
7) In "Lab Notes" under step 6, the tek suggests that one should be saving the
naphtha from the defatting process, but discarding the DMT-laden naphtha from the
later steps. Why would one want to save the (practically non-existent) fats from
MHRB but throw away the DMT?
8) "You will know when DMT is in the final product by the smell." This is an odd
statement, since DMT is supposed to be the final product, not merely be contained in
it.
9) Outdated info: The tek suggests using Red Devil lye; however, the manufacturer of
this brand discontinued production in 2005.
10) The three sets of "Lab Notes" from QT's extraction record that the extractions
took 24 days, 39 days, and 61 days. Yikes! A quick and effective acid/base extraction

can be completely finished in 24 hours (and that includes time for freezeprecipitations); a big, leisurely (and frankly, unnecessarily long) acid/base
extraction (BLAB) is still done in a week. From a legal standpoint, it seems prudent to
complete an extraction as quickly as possible so that--if worse comes to worst--the
extractor is only on the hook for possession of a controlled substance and not for
manufacture as well.
11) The tek is written for MHRB with lye as the base and naphtha as the non-polar
solvent; yet it implies that it would be just as effective for Phalaris grasses with
chloroform as the solvent. Unfortunately, different factors need to be taken into
account for different plants and solvents. Getting clean DMT out of Phalaris grasses,
in particular, is a massive chore, requiring its own specialized tek.
Minor Gripes
1) Measuring pH with beets and cabbage? Seriously? That's pretty ghetto. Litmus
papers and pH monitors are fairly cheap if one cared to measure the pH. And with
MHRB, it's not necessary; a dash of acid is fine for the initial extraction, and MHRB
provides its own handy color-changing reaction when enough base has been added.
2) Multiple times, the tek refers to "naptha" instead of naphtha.

"It lasted for a million years and for a split-second. But it's over and now it's your
turn." -Timothy Leary

Name:

N,N-Dimethyltryptamine
N,N-Dimethyl-1H-indole-3Chemical Name:
ethanamine
Alternative
3-[2-(dimethylamino)ethyle]indole,
Chemical Names: DMT
Chemical Formula: C12H 16N2
Molecular Weight: 188.27

Melting Point:
Boiling Point:
Dosages:

44.6-44.8 (crystals)
60-80 (crystals)
60-100 mg (smoking)
350 mg (orally)

Controlled substance (hallucinogen) U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21 Part 1308.11 (1985).

In modern times there has been a reduction of ritual. The ceremonies, that
previously served to cast out an individual from modern associations and throw
him into a field of epiphanies, have become merely form, betraying the inner
forces that must somehow manifest. Shamen know of these inner forces. They
understand the inevitable overwhelming psychological experience that everyone
will face if they are to complete their inward path to open the unconscious and fall
in. The psychological crisis is the fulcrum of any metaphysical realization the
individual may have about himself or his world. Without these intense
experiences, without the rituals that convey the message of the journey, and
without shamen to show the way, many are lost in the world searching constantly
farther for what is contained only within. To chemically force such spiritual
breakthrough may be interpreted by some as a way to circumvent the trials that
are necessary to test each soul willing to see the truth of their life. But in
contemporary society where is the individual to seek these tests of the self or to
be struck silent in awe of their own natural beauty or that of the universe? The
shamen offered these opportunities to the individuals of their society for
generations, helping people maintain a healthy psychology between the known
world and the mystical. I now offer this ability to you in one of many forms,
DMT.
DMT is perhaps the most powerful hallucinogen known to man. It is related to
LSD and psilocybin. There are no [commonly used - Erowid] drug tests that
would show DMT usage. None of the basic NIDA-5 drug tests [Erowid Note: Now
called the "SAMHSA-5"] or any extended drug test will show a result for
DMT. DMT is naturally formed in the body and has been found in abnormal
levels in the body fluids of persons suffering from schizophrenia. DMT is almost
never sold through dealers, rarely synthesized, and seldom used. It is, however,
easily extracted from common plant materials and has been used in various forms
for hundreds of years (timeline). DMT is not a "social drug" however. Respect the
drug and its incredible potential. This drug is not for the inexperienced, nor is it
recommended to those who are just looking for another "high." Few seek the
visions enabled through DMT, and even fewer return to them. Even avid
psychedelic users have had frightening experiences with DMT on their first
encounter with the drug. Take care to research and find out if DMT is for you. I
stress that educating yourself about this drug (and about all drugs you intend to
use) will make you a more competent and prepared chemist, tripper, and guide.
This manual is presented as a quick bench guide for the complete novice on how
to extract DMT. Although the text and illustrations for the process were all
created by myself, there are a few pictures which are not my own. The origins of
these pictures are credited in the bibliography. I would like to encourage others
to add to this manual their own written observations. When attempting to
produce any of these products the reader is encouraged to read through the steps
several times to closely familiarize himself with the entire process. Please take
note that DMT is an illegal substance in the United States of America and is

controlled under federal regulations. The following is for educational purposes


only.

How to Extract DMT from Natural Sources


(in Ten Easy Steps)

First a plant must be selected that contains the chemicals we wish to


extract. None of these plants are illegal and they can be found growing wild and
free all over the world (much less can be said for some of our other favorite
plants.) Most of these plant materials can be ordered through the internet. A little
research may reveal a large quantity of some useful plant material growing near
you. Alkaloid contents of each plant mary vary according to the growing
conditions. Specifics about these plants and how to grow them are beyond the
scope of this manual but the information can easily be found. Below is a chart of
several plants that contain NN-DMT, 5-OH-DMT, and 5-MeO-DMT (DMT's close
cousin.)

Alkaloids reported as percent of total dry plant


source mass/weight:

Acacia bark
0.71%

NNDMT

0.36%

NNDMT

0.86%

NNDMT

0.57%

NNDMT

0.44%

NNDMT

0.34%

NNDMT

1.06%

5-MeODMT

Acacia maidenii bark

Acacia simplicifolia bark

Mimosa hostilis root (bark)

Virola shoots & flowers

Desmanthus illinoensis
root (bark)

Pilocarpus organensis

Phalaris tuberosa

NNDMT
5-MeO0.022%
DMT
5-OH0.005%
DMT
0.10%

Phalaris arundinacea ('net


gossip)

0.060%
??

NNDMT
5-MeODMT

Psychotria
species (averaged, from Jonathan
Ott)

0.200%

N,N-DMT

5-MeO-DMT

5-OH-DMT

MAOI

NNDMT

DMT (N,N-dimethyltryptamine) is one of the most


hallucinogenic compounds known. DMT is not active
orally (unless in the form of an ayahuasca brew), but must
be smoked in it's freebase form to experience its
effects. (DMT can be taken orally when mixed with a
MAOIs, but this is not recommended for the first time
user.) The body quickly builds a tolerance for the
drug. Your DMT dose must be taken within 60
seconds. Any more of the drug after this first minute will
not enhance the experience. It is recommended to give
at least one hour before attempting another DMT trip.
Effects of 5-MeO-DMT are psychedelic without the visual
distortions found in NN-DMT. 5-MeO-DMT is taken at 1/4
the dose of NN-DMT and will overpower the NN-DMT.
(Bufotenine) can cause severe physical discomfort
including circulatory distress, nausea, psychological
distress (panic and fear), severe skin flushing, and has
the possibility of being fatal.
(Monoamine Oxidase Inhibitors) will intensify and prolong
the effects of NN-DMT, however this is never
recommended. Foolish combinations of MAOIs and other
drugs can lead to serious health problems and even
death. The tryptamines are normally metabolized by an
MAO in the body. MAO metabolizes serotonin,
norepinephrine, and dopamine. By inhibiting this, MAOIs
increase levels of those neurotransmitters. Tyramine will
not be metabolized and will cause an increase in tyramine
levels in the blood.

Extraction Procedure
For our experiment we will be using Mimosa hostilis root-bark to
provide a very pure product of NN-DMT without the over
powering influence of 5-MeO-DMT or the negative side effects of
5-OH-DMT. For a solvent we will be using common
naphtha. Notes on adaptations for chemicals and other
variations of this process are described as well. The following is
a list of materials:
It helps to test all non glass materials with solvents to make sure there aren't any adverse
reactions.

(30g suggested starting


amount - $45/100g)
2. Muratic acid
(pool acid - $4/gallon)
3. pH papers
(litmus papers - $3/100 tests)
4. Lye
(Red Devil Brand - $5)
5. Naphtha
(Zippo lighter fluid - $5)
6. Coffee filters and cotton swabs/cloth
( - $2)
7. Funnel
( - $2)
8. 3 labeled glass jars with lids (thick canning (labeled Jar A , Jar B,
jars work best, but pickle jars will do)
and Jar C - $3)
9. Evaporating dish
(glass baking pan - $10)
10. Glass pipette
(turkey baster - $4)
11. Goggles and gloves
( - $10)
12. Distilled water
( - $2)
Total = ~$100.00
1. Mimosa hostilis root-bark

STATEMENT OF HAZARDS: Methylene Chloride


Suspect cancer hazard. Risk of cancer depends on duration and level of
contact. Harmful if swallowed. Causes skin and eye irritation. Causes
respiratory tract irritation. May affect blood cells. May affect the central nervous
system. May cause blindness. Avoid breathing vapor or mist. Handle with
caution. Keep in mind these risks whenever substituting DCM for any other
solvent.
STATEMENT OF HAZARDS: Muratic Acid

STEP 1
Preparing Plant Material

Grind the plant material to a fine


powder. The finer ground the material
the better your yields will be. The best
technique to pulverize and rupture the
cell structure of any plant material is to
repeatedly freeze and thaw it over and
over again. An example of a plant
requiring this treatment is Phalaris
arundinacea, a strong and limber
grass. Mimosa hostilis root-bark is
easily pulverized to a fine powder in a
blender, releasing a pink haze.
First place the
grass
A. clippings in
the freezer
over night.
B. Remove them
and place the
frozen
clippings into
a
blender. Try
and liquefy
the clippings
as much as
possible while
they are
frozen.
C. Repeat this
process of
freezing,
thawing, and
blending with
the plant
material
several times
for best
results.

STEP 2
Acidify Water to pH 2

Above photo credit to Jim DeKorne

Mimosa hostilis root-bark


2000 Erowid

Take two pickle jars (about 20 ounces each)


and wash them in the dishwasher to help
sterilize and clean them. Label the
jars A and B. FillJar A 2/3 way full with
distilled water (~15 ounces, or ~500 ml
filtered preferable.) Pour 1/2 teaspoon
(~2ml) of acid into Jar A . Test the pH of the
water in Jar A . The pH of the water should
read 2 If not, add more distilled water to
dilute (5% acidity). There are many sources
of acid: (Always add acid into water, not water into acid. Use
distilled water to avoid any adulterates.)

electronic pH meter in jar

A. Distilled white vinegar


(5% acidity, ~2 cups, or
500 ml for every 50g
root- bark) or lemon
juice.
B. Muratic acid from pool
shop (10 ml 30% HCl to 1
liter water is
recommended.)
C. Reagent grade
hydrochloric and sulfuric
acid (over-poweringly
potent without dilution.)
Add powdered root-bark to Jar B.

Lab Notes:
Proper method of testing pH with pH
papers; Use a glass stirring rod (or
something that won't corrode with acid)
to stir the acidic solution. Dab the pH
paper with the stirring rod lightly. To
save pH paper, you can cut only a
small section of strip for a single test. If
a pH meter or pH papers are
unavailable there are certain organic
sources that
produce antocyanines which change
color with different pH ranges. Red
beats or red cabbage may be used to

Figure 1

produce a rough estimate of pH


range. This is not always
recommended, but it works. To create
the indicator solution, blend or grind
either red beats or red cabbage. Strain
off the juice from the pulp and filter out
any remaining plant material. If not
enough pigment is found, try extracting
more with water from the mushy
pulp. If there is too much pigment,
simply dilute solution with
water. Indicator solution produced has
a short shelf life but can be stored in a
refrigerator for several weeks. Below is
a rough pH chart for reference: (litmus paper
comes with its own pH chart)

STEP 3
Convert Alkaloids to Salts
Using a pipette (or turkey baster) transfer
enough acidified water from Jar A into Jar B to
cover the root-bark in the bottom of Jar B (~8
ounces, or 250 ml acidified water into Jar
B.) When the acid reacts with the root-bark, it
converts the alkaloids (elf-spice) into salts. To
help facilitate this process we can:
A Periodically
. shake the
contents of
the
jar. This
helps more
root-bark
come in
contact with
the acid.
B The weaker
. the acid,
the longer it

Figure 2

should be
heated
for. Do not
allow
evaporation
of the liquid
inside. Do
not
boil. Maint
ain
temperatur
e below 50
C or 122
F. Since
we are
using pickle
jars, and
not pyrex,
they can
shatter
easily if
heated or
cooled too
quickly. It
is
recommend
ed using a
double
boiler with
hot (not
boiling)
water to
warm the
solution. T
o cool,
simply turn
off the heat
source and
allow the
solution to
slowly
return to
room
temperatur
e.
1 When
. using
muratic

acid,
heat the
jar for
15-30
minutes
.
When
using
weaker
acids,
2 simmer
. the
content
s
overnig
ht.
Allow the contents of the jar 24 hours to react
the first time. The alkaloids (tryptamines) are
converted into salts and become water
soluble. Our elf-spice is now contained in the
aqueous solution.

STEP 4
Filtration
Plug the bottom of the funnel with cotton balls or
cotton cloth to create a cotton-filter. Pour the
contents of Jar B through the funnel and intoJar
C. Squeeze the root-bark contents inside the filter
to press out the remaining juices. Save the rootbark that has been caught by the filter and place it
back into Jar B.

Lab Notes:

Figure 3

Whether
filtering
material
through a
cotton-filter
or a coffee
filter it helps
if the thinner
parts of the
solution are
filtered first,
followed by
the mushy
and more
bulky
components
(which may
clog the
pores of
your filters
as you
strain.) The
better your
filtration, the
more rapid
and efficient
your
emulsions,
also
resulting in
a cleaner
product. Co
tton must be
specifically
used. Other
fibers have
the potential
to react with
our
solvents. A
tea strainer
(wire strain)
can be a
simple way
to separate
bulk
ruffage. An
other way to
improve this
method is to

use a
vacuum
filter. There
are several
varieties,
the most
affordable
being a tapwater
aspirator
'pump' that
attaches to
a household
faucet and
connects to
filter.
SeeWikiped
ia:
Aspirator.
These cost
about
$30.00 (in
2001) and
are very
quick,
useful and
effective.

STEP 5
Collect 3 Extractions

Repeat the process outlined in STEPS


2, 3, and 4, two more times. The initial
extraction is most important. For best results,
allow the contents of the jar more time to react
during the remaining two
extractions. Shake Jar B, 4 times a day, for 1
week before filtering each time through a
cotton-filter. Collect the acidic contents in Jar
C each time. After these initial 3 cottonfiltration cycles, clean Jar A andJar B, and
dispose of remaining root-bark.
After all 3 extraction phases, filter the contents
of Jar C again, this time using a paper coffeefilter instead of a cotton filter.

Place
several
paperfilters
A (coffee
. filters)
in the
bottom
of the
funnel.
Strain
content
s of Jar
C throu
B gh the
. paperfilters
and
into Jar
B.
When
finished
C
,
.
clean J
ar C.

Repeat this process as necessary to


remove as many of the particulates

Figure 4

from our solution as possible.

Lab Notes:
The majority of the alkaloids we are
searching for will convert to salts in the
first extraction phase. The second and
third extraction phases take place over a
longer period of time. This will ensure
that we will be able to extract as
many alkaloids as possible from our
material. The third phase can be
reduced to 1-2 days but will not produce
the best yields. Remember, these
measurements are all crude estimates.

STEP 6
Defatting

Next we defat the solution. This is part of


standard lab procedure whenever
extracting alkaloids of this sort. This process
removes the oils, fats, and other unwanted
substances from our aqueous solution and also
helps with yields. All DMT salts are insoluble in
non-polar solvents -- with the exception of DMT
acetate -- which is soluble in chlorinated nonpolar solvents such as chloroform and DCM.
Thus if you are using white vinegar (acetic acid)
as your acid, you will need to use naptha or
ether to defat as chloroform or DCM would
extract the DMT acetate along with the oils and
fats, defeating the purpose of this step.When
using mimosa hostilis root-bark you may find this
step unnecessary, however, any plant material
foliage containing chlorophyl it is strongly
recommended. To do this we add an organic
(non-polar) solvent to the acidic solution. Before
using any solvents test a significant amount
(~500 ml) of the solvent by evaporating it in a
dish. This will verify that there are no residues or
orders left when evaporation is complete
(commonly found in many over-the-counter
solvents.) Later in the procedure (STEP 10) you
will be evaporating this solvent to leave a
smokable form of DMT. Anything your solvent
contributes, you may be smoking in the final
product. Below are listed several more common
organic non-polar solvents.
A. Naphtha:

Figure 5

Coleman fuel, VM&P naphtha, Zippo, or


lighter fluid. Evaporate a small amount in a
dish and inspect the residue if you are unsure
of it's contaminants. If used for the
extraction phase instead of the defatting
phase, warm naphtha will
extractalkaloids much better than cool
naphtha. Naphtha is considered more
selective for catching these alkaloids than
DCM. Naphtha rises to the top of the jar.
B. Methylene Chloride:
Also known as DCM or
dichloromethane. Often used as an adhesive
solvent for acrylics. Pure DCM can be found
in craft stores. DCM must be distilled first

Naphtha

from all non-flammable paint strippers


beforehand (they contain a paste that holds
several unwanted substances.) The paint
stripper may also contain methanol (most
marine grade paint strippers are 80-90%
DCM.) Methanol is also an organic
solvent. DCM distills at 41 C or 106
F. Pure DCM is best. May cause cancer and
blindness. Take necessary
precautions. Methylene chloride sinks to the
bottom of the jar .
C. Ether:
Contained in engine-starting fluid purchased
at automotive stores. To remove liquid ether
from an engine-starting aerosol can, spray
the contents of the can down a 12 inch
(~30cm) length of 3/4 inch PVC pipe. The
ether will condense on the sides of the pipe
and fall into the jar, while the inert propellant
will be released into the air. Ether
is extremely volatile. Ether floats to the top of
the jar.
D. Chloroform:

Defatting process

Chloroform (CH2C12) can be purchased over


the internet from arts and crafts
warehouses. It has a tendency to be harsh
on organics and has a boiling range of 3565C (95-149 F). Chloroform sinks to the
bottom of the jar.

It is important to remember what type of organic


solvent you use. For our defatting process we
will use naphtha.
Add to Jar B ~50-100 ml (~2-3.5 ounces)
naphtha. (Only 10-15% the volume of our acidic
solution is enough naphtha for this
step. Visualize what 10% of the total of the
solution is and add that amount of naphtha into
the jar.) Cap the lid on Jar B and shake the
contents vigorously for 20 minutes. Set Jar
B aside and allow for emulsion (foam, bubbles,
solutions, particles, etc.) to separate into two
distinct layers (much like oil and water will
separate.) This may take ~24 hours (48 in some
cases.) The oils and fats will migrate into the
non-polar solvent layer leaving our alkaloids in

Seperatory Funnel in Jar

the aqueous solution. Since we are using


naphtha, the solvent layer will rise to the top
of Jar B. Using a pipette (or turkey baster)
remove the solvent layer and discard.

Repeat defatting process 2 times.

Lab Notes:
A separatory funnel is very handy for
dividing and eliminating layers of
solutions. This device consists of a single
chamber with a tapered bottom. On the
bottom is a closed faucet. The container is
filled with the two solutions and they are
mixed. After mixing, the apparatus is set
aside until both fluids separate into two
distinct layers. The lower fraction of the
fluids can be drained via the bottom faucet
and into a container for preservation (in this
extraction when using naptha during the
defatting process) or to discard (in this
extraction when using naptha during the
basification process). A quick separatory
funnel can be made by filling a Ziplock
plastic baggie with your mixtures, and
hanging it from one corner. When the
layers have separated, the bottom corner of
the bag is pinched and then cut for
drainage. It is suggested to test the baggie
to make sure your solvents will not melt it.

STEP 7
Prepare to Basify
In this step we will be preparing the solution for the alkaloids migration using a
common organic non-polar solvent. For our solvent we will use warm naphtha
(other solvents are identified in STEP 6.)

Add to Jar B 100 ml (~3 ounces) warm naphtha. Shake the jar for 5 minutes.

STEP 8
Basify to pH 9
Now we must basify our solution. By
doing this we will "unhook" the salt and
transform the alkaloid into its "free base"
form. The alkaloidswill no longer be a
salt, nor will they be soluble in
water. This allows us to extract them
with the organic solvent added in STEP
7. Ammonium hydroxide is normally
used, but for our experiment we will be
using NaOH found in household lye
crystals (Red Devil drain cleaner) and
purchased at hardware stores. Lye is
very caustic and can react
violently. Take the proper precautions
when using lye.
A good mixture for basifying is 5g (~0.2
ounces) lye mixed with 95g (~3 ounces)
distilled water. The reason we dilute the
base is to prevent localized pH spikes
which will destroy the alkaloids in the
area that we are adding the concentrated
base. Create a basic mixture as follows:

A. Fill Jar A 95ml (~3 ounces) full with


water.
Slowly add 5g (~1 teaspoon) of lye to
B. water. Shake and mix contents
thoroughly.
C. Test to make sure pH is ~12.

Now using a pipette transfer small


amounts of solution in Jar A into Jar B.

Stir and check the pH of contents


A. in Jar B after each transfer of lye
solution until the solution in Jar
B reaches a pH of ~9-11.

Figure 6

Shake the jar but be careful


of pressure that will build up inside
the jar. Release the lid and vent
often! The solution will change a
gray color as the alkaloids are
B. turned from acid salts to free base. It
may resemble a thick gel. Then the
solution will turn black and slippery as
you add more
base. The jar will heat up during this
process.

Approximate Basification Color

You have now formed the free


base alkaloids that are soluble in nonpolar solvents. According to the Merck
Index the pKa (natural pH) of DMT is
8.68 (which would make this the ideal pH
to extract at.) In many experiments the
average pH of the final basified solution
in STEP 8was ~10, which gave
satisfactory results everytime.

STEP 9
Emulsions

As these alkaloids dissolve in non-polar


solvent added in STEP 7 , an emulsion
will form. The strength of emulsion
formed is directly proportional to the
strength of stirring. Heavy, rapid stirring
produces a thick emulsion that takes up
to 4 days to settle out. Light, slow
stirring over a longer period of time
produces and emulsion that separates
quickly without affecting the yield. Let
the jar sit overnight until the emulsion
has separated into two distinct layers. If
emulsion has not cleared in 48 hours, try
the following:

Thick emulsion

A. Sometimes
adding a lot of
salt and gentle
stirring will
make the polar
layer more polar
and help with
emulsions.
B. Add more
organic solvent.
C. Filter solutions
again through a
cotton filter
several
times. A paper
filter will not
work.
D. Test and
increase the
pH.
E. In most cases
the solvent
layer will have
slight tint or
may sometimes
appear
completely
clear. If you
want an early
test of your
extraction
simply

Figure 7

evaporate a
small amount in
a glass
dish. The
residue left
should smell a
bit synthetic (a
smell like
plastic.) This
smell is a trait of
your tryptamine.
The naphtha will create a thick
orange/pink emulsion with small bubbles
that sometimes takes over 48 hours to
separate. Always wait a few days before
trying other methods to break down the
emulsion. Keeping the naphtha warm
will increase the amount of alkaloids it
carries with it during each extraction. To
help keep the jar warm, place it in a pot
surrounded by warm water. Naphtha
floats. If DCM is used for our extraction
solvent in STEP 7, we will have a faster
resolving emulsion than naphtha (less
than an hour in some cases.) The
solvent may turn a slightly darker color,
usually only a tint of reddish-brown or
yellow. DCM sinks. Allow a minimum of
24 hours for the contents of the jar to
react completely. If using methanol allow
a minimum of 4 days warmed to roomtemperature for reactions to complete.
Using a pipette remove the
corresponding solvent layer from Jar
B and save it in Jar A.

STEP 10
Final Alkaloid Extraction and Evaporation

Repeat STEP 7 and STEP 9 (in


that order) 2 times. Our elfspice falls from the basified aqueous
solution and into our solvent.
The combined solvent fractions from our
solvent extractions should now be in Jar
A. Pour contents of Jar A into a glass
baking dish. Allow for the solvent to
evaporate. Evaporation may take up to
one week (depending on your
solvent.) During this time keep dish with
solvent awayfrom heat or open flame.
The remaining substance may resemble
anything from a sticky orangish goo to
white or pale-orange crystals, depending
on how well you followed the
procedure. Scrape up this substance
from the baking pan with a razor. About
25 mg is a good starting amount (try
about the size of a pea.) Assuming best
yields you could get 5-6 doses (275 mg)
from 30g mimosa hostilis root-bark. You
will know when DMT is in the final
product by the smell. DMT has a distinct
synthetic smell, almost like some
manufactured plastics.

"Don't worry about weighing it. Smoke it 'til


your high, then save the rest for next time.
Remember the flame should never touch the
dmt, just the glass that's holding the dmt. Just
heat up the "bulb" and gets to toking. Slow &
steady, deep inhalation, hold the smoke 'til you
burst. If nothing after 1st hit, huge toke again,
etc. The 3rd toke will usually be the one."

Lab Notes:
After DCM has evaporated your
product may contain trace amounts
of hydroxide. Some find hydroxide
to be unpleasant in the final
product. To help reduce this try
washing the DMT crystals in water,

2000 Erowid.org

2000 Erowid.org

2000 Erowid.org
Photos of DMT crystals taken from Erowid.org

and letting the water


evaporate. Water can be added to
the solvent evaporating dish to
help carry off hydroxide.

Lab Notes from Previous DMT


Extractions
LAB #1

Materials
1. 25g mimosa hostilis root-bark
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Distilled Water
6. Coffee Filter and Cotton T-Shirt
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish and Turkey Baster
10. Cooking Pot
11. Lighter Fluid

Day 1:

Day 2:

The root-bark is brittle. To powderize it one had to simply place


the sticks of dried bark into the blender. They were immediately
ground to a fine powder without any trouble, giving off a pink
haze when the cover of the blender was released. The powder
was stored in a tupperware container and placed in the back of a
freezer.
Muratic acid is powerful. Thick gloves were worn along with eye
protection. Using a stainless steel teaspoon, about 1-5ml (1
teaspoon) of muratic acid was poured into a pickle jar that
contained roughly 3/4 filtered water (15 ounces or about 500
ml.) The pickle jar was previously washed twice in a dishwasher
in an attempt to ensure sterility. Under the lid of the pickle jar the
manufacturer had painted on a thin ring of some type of latex or
rubber to help seal the jar. The mixture of water and acid do not
seem to affect the ring (it doesn't dissolve or melt the latex in any
way) so the jar and its lid were used.
The jar was shook to mix the acid and water. Immediately
afterwards the pH of the water was tested. The pH was 1 using
pH papers to measure. (Compare pH within 30 seconds with

litmus.)

Day 3:
Day 4:

Day 5:

Added the 25g root-bark to the bottom of jar B. Then the baster
was used to pour enough acidified water to just cover the rootbark. Then jar B was capped and shook vigorously for 10
minutes. While shaking the jar it began to foam up with pink
foam. Then the jar rest for a couple hours. The contents of the
jar broke into 3 layers. The top was pink foam. The middle was
a very very dark red (burgundy) color. Light didn't seem to pass
through it very well at all. The bottom layer was a lighter red
sediment.
The dark red color of the top layer of liquid has now turned
almost black it seems. No light passes through it.
It was decided to heat the solution for several hours in an
attempt to speed up the process. The jar and it's contents were
propped up on a porcelain stand inside a cooking pot. To this
pot was added enough water to surround the pickle jar. The lid
to the pickle jar was made finger tight so that the contents could
not evaporate but still allow pressure to escape. For roughly 3
hours the mixture sat in very warm water (not
boiling.) Occasionally one would lift the jar, and shake the
contents before placing it back on the stand. Afterwards the heat
source was turned off and the water and the pickle jar contents
cooled to room temperature.
A funnel was placed in the empty jar A. Inside the funnel was
placed a cotton T-shirt filter. In jar B the root-bark and the
solution had formed two layers. This made it easier to sift the
smaller particles through the filter before the larger particles
clogged the pores of the filter. After the filter was full of sediment
I took the edges of the filter and twisted to squeeze any
remaining liquid into the second jar. The process was repeated
until the jar B was empty. Then jar C was filled with roughly 2/3
filtered water, and was added roughly 5ml of muratic acid. The
cotton filters were opened again, and the sediments they held
were poured back into the jar B.
Both jars were capped tightly and checked for leaks
again. Needless to say anytime one is working with these
chemicals one should wear thick gloves and the proper eye and
body protection.

Day 6:
Day 9:

Acidified water from jar C was siphoned with a turkey baster into
jar B until the water covered the sediments. The contents of the
jar were again left to sit in warm water, this time about 30
minutes.
Strained aqueous solution and collected. Added acidic water to
remaining plant material. Simmered for 30 minutes.
Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown
away. Solution was strained 3 times through coffee filters.

Naphtha (Lighter Fuel) was added. About 100 ml. The jar was
shaken vigorously for ~10 minutes, resulting in a thick bubbly
solution. This was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24 hours
the top layer resembles water with a few drops of milk
added. There is also a layer of translucent pink scum. This this
is the nasty stuff we want to get rid of.
To remove the naphtha layer (top layer) it was agreed that it
would be best to siphon the bottom layer out of the jar and save
it, instead, then clean out the jar containing the remaining nasty
naphtha stuff. Using a plastic turkey baster we slowly squeezed
the bulb as it passed through the layers into the jar. This forced
small bubbles to pour from the nozzle, and prevented any
naphtha from entering the baster before we could suck up the
bottom layer.
After removing the naphtha, the remaining contents were again
filtered once through a paper coffee filter.

Day 10:

Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an
empty jar.. About 100 ml water for 1 teaspoon (5ml?) lye
crystals. The jar was shaken, and stirred and made sure all the
lye crystals had dissolved. This was added slowly to the jar
containing our main solution.
After 4 teaspoons of base solution, the mixture changed from a
burgundy red to a very grayish blue color. The pH was tested
and found to be 7.
After 8 teaspoons of base solution the mixture has turned a
darker gray color. The pH tested was ~10.
After 10 teaspoons of base solution the mixture changed from
gray to very inky black. There is a lot of foam. The pH tested
was found to be ~11-12.

Day 11:
Day 12:

A total of 10 teaspoons were added to this mixture before the pH


was ~11. The jar was shaken for several minutes with the cap
tightly sealed. Then the jar was placed in a pot of warm water for
15 minutes while slowly stirred. Then the jar was allowed to rest
for 3 hours inside the warm water.
Solution has not separated into two layers. The naphtha layer on
top still resembles a thick oily foam.
Solution has not separated into two layers. Markings were made
on the side of the jar to see if any progress had been
made. Nothing changed in the jar within the last 48 hours. More
solvent was added.

Day 13:
Day 14:

No change in solutions. About 1 teaspoon of salt was added to


the mixture and stirred gently for 30 minutes.
No change in solutions. The pH was taken of the aqueous
solution. Because of the dark color of the material being tested
it's hard to get an accurate measurement. A small sample was
taken and lightly diluted with water. The pH was about 9 or
10. Another mixture of lye and water was made in a separate
jar. About 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of base solution was added to the
mixture in jar B. The pH was tested again and read about 11 or
12. There seemed to be an immediate change in the
emulsion. A clear layer appeared on top of the jar, followed by
the familiar thick orange bubbles, and then finally the aqueous
solution on the bottom. The container was steeped in warm
water for 1 hour.

After 1 hour the contents were strained 3 times through a cottonfilter and the emulsions were allowed to separate. There was a
dramatic improvement after filtration. The top layer of naphtha
was removed and saved. Another 100 ml naphtha was added
and the jar was heated again for perhaps another hour. The best
technique to mixing the two solutions does not seem to be
shaking or stirring. Instead, very slowly tip the jar end over end
repeatedly for several minutes. This produces an emulsion that
settles in about 2-3 hours time.
Day 15:
The contents of the jar were heated and mixed slowly for a
period of 2 hours. Afterwards the top layer was saved and
another 100 ml naphtha was added. Again the jar was heated
and stirred for a few hours. The solvent layer was removed and
placed with the rest of the previous solvent fractions.
Day 16:
The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking
dish and set aside for evaporation.
Day 17-20: 3 day evaporation process. Bottom of dish there appears small
yellow/orange crystal formations, circular in pattern, about 23mm across.
Some of the outer edges of the crystals have dried a bit. The
Day 21:
larger crystals still seem wet.
Day 22:
The entire dish was scraped with a razor. The crystals bunched
together and dissolved into a caramel gum like substance. This
substance was smeared across a 3X5 note card.
The brownish goo has dried up and reveals a more crystalline
Day 23:
structure. This was scrapped off using an exacto knife.
Day 24:
Elf-spice hyperspace. The experiment was a success.

LAB #2

Materials

1. 25g Phalaris arundinacea (rather dry, note this grass contains 5-MeO
alkaloids as well)
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Lighter Fluid
6. Cotton Balls
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish, turkey baster, cooking pot

Day 1:

Day 3:

Day 4-11:
Day 12:

Day 19:
Day 26:

Phalaris grass is very hard to pulverize. The grass was placed in


a freezer and then into a blender. To help mash the grass down
towards the blades of the blender, a small amount of water was
added. Repeatedly the lid to the blender was lifted and the grass
had to be pushed back down. It took over an hour to pulverize
the grass sufficiently. The mixture of water and clippings was
placed into a baggie. The baggie was frozen and thawed several
times over a period of 24 hours.
5ml muratic acid added to a pickle jar that contained roughly 500
ml water. Water and acid were mixed well. 25g of grass was
placed in the bottom of jar B and the acidified water covered this
amount of grass. Shook the jar and contents.
Jar contents are shaken daily.
A funnel was placed in jar A. Inside the funnel was placed a
cotton ball. The material from jar B was filtered through the
funnel into jar A. The remaining material in the filter was placed
back into jar B and covered again with acidified water. Jar B
contents are shaken daily for 7 days.
Collection of aqueous solution same as Day 12.
Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown
away. Solution was strained 3 times through coffee filters.
100 ml Naphtha added. The jar was shaken 10 minutes. This
was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24 hours the nasty stuff
was skimmed off the top along with the naphtha solvent. This
was done twice.

Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
Day 28:
A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an
empty jar. This was added slowly to the jar containing our main
solution. The pH was now ~11. The jar was slowly stirred for
several hours while heated.
Day 29-31: After the emulsion had cleared the top layer of naphtha was
collected and more naphtha added to the original mixture. This
was done 3 times.

Day 39:

The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking


dish and set aside for evaporation. After 4 days the dish was
scraped clean and the crystals put to use. Success!
LAB #3

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Materials
45g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark
Muriatic Acid
Litmus Papers
Lye
Ronsonal Lighter Fluid
Cotton Filter
Separatory Funnel
Pyrex Dish and Stove

Day 1:

Day 2:

Day 60:
Day 61:

Ingrediants were cut with scissors and places in coffee grinder for
pulverizing. The contents were then placed in pyrex dish with
cover. Dish was placed on gas stove and allowed to boil. After
boil was achieved the stove was turned off. Periodically the stove
was turned on to apply heat to the dish. After 20 minutes the
biomass was strained. Placed biomass back into the dish and
repeated twice..
Added Ronsonal lighter fluid about equal to existing volume,
covered jar and shook. Result was massive emulsion. Let sit for
two months.. A muddly silt formed on the bottom of the jar. I'm
guessing it's from not filtering finely enough.
Separated bottom liquid layer using 1 L sep funnel into a clean jar,
and discarded top layer. (Thought I'd try de-fatting once. It
doesn't seem worth it with MHRB. Probably won't do it in the
future.)
I previously prepared a mixture of Red Devil Lye and distilled
water. It takes a while to fully dissolve the pellets. Again added
about the same amount of naptha as I had liquid, and then added
basic solution while stirring to a pH of 11.6. While shaking, I
noticed it forming a vacuum, and periodically vented. I'm not sure
of the mechanism there. I let it settle, then separated, saving the
bottom layer for 2nd and third extractions, and top layer for
drying. Drying Tip: get a 4 inch fan, and lay it on top of the pyrex
dish, and it will dry overnight

BIBLIOGRAPHY
The Vaults of Erowid: www.erowid.org

Perhaps the best collection of information on the internet about chemicals and
plants for anyone new to drugs. Within this document I have reprinted several
smaller pictures found from their website. Although I asked permission, I was
never sent a response, but here I credit their wonderful database and used the
pictures anyway.
Color photo of a large ultrapure DMT crystal, grown in 1996. The crystal is
approximately 1 inch across.
Anonymous Photographer. Used by Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal1.jpg
Color photo of a pile of DMT crystals extracted with Naptha.
Photo by Bucwheat. 2000 Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal2.jpg
Color photo of a small vial full of N,N-DMT crystals.
Anonymous Photographer. 2000 Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt2.jpg
Color photo of a collection of rootbark pieces layed out on a plate.
Photo by Murple. 2000 Erowid.
/plants/show_image.php?i=mimosa/mimosa_hostilis6.jpg
Psychedelic Shamanism The Cultivation, Preparation and Shamanic Use of
Psychotropic Plants.
DeKorne, Jim. (1994)
Publisher : Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN : 1-55950-110-3
Color photo of grass growing outdoors. (Pictured as found on Erowid.)
/plants/show_image.php?i=phalaris/images/archive/phalaris_arundinacea1.jpg
Rhodium - an informative element: Rhodium
A collection of highly technical information. I humble myself before the knowlege
they posess.
rhodium/chemistry/equipment/ph-indicator.html
Ayahuasca Analogues: Pangaen Entheogens.
Ott, Jonathan. (1994).
Kennewick, WA: Natural Products.
ISBN: 0-9614234-5-5
Tryptamines I Have Known And Loved: The Chemistry Continues.
By Alexander and Ann Shulgin.
Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences.
Vol. 56, page 1526.
Thanks to:

Dr. Foss
Pryor

Gumby
Placenta_Juan

baalchemist
neuron

(Part 2)

MagikVenom
Saguaro
willytell
jane

GravNet
Meeker
Mike
Gupta

Malachi
D-4138
NoRezz
Jack Tripper

And all those who have helped expand and add to this piece of literature. I am in
debt to all those within the beautiful community who have helped create this fine
guide. Feel free to add to this your own written observations, dreams, or thoughts
on these topics.

Revision History #
o
o
o

v1.1 - Quantum Tantra

v1.1.3 - Feb 4 2011 - Erowid & the community at The DMT Nexus - Added "Note of Warning" including a
detailed critique of this tek from the folks at The DMT Nexus.

v1.1.1 - Sep 19 2009 - Erowid - removed confusing text on alkaloid %s table.


v1.1.2 - Jan 7 2011 - Erowid - Added the term 'aspirator' to the mention of the simple vacuum filter in Step 4
as a clarification after receiving a question.

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