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Viking Knit Tutorial

Created by Linda Aspenson Bergstro

http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/studio/LindaOriginals

This chain was actually used by the Vikings

thousands of years ago (8th to 10th century) as
currency, history says they cut the chain to the
desired length.
Skip to modern day, Viking Knit is used as an
attractive, strong and flexible chain. This tutorial
will teach you the Viking Knit, tips on keeping
everything in line for first timers and will show
you how to add wire as needed as well as
attached cones (ALSO TAUGHT) and end caps and
clasps. Two versions of a bracelet are done here.
Dont limit yourself however; this makes a great
chain for any pendant! Necklaces, bracelets, you
decide. Please read the entire tutorial in advance.
More information about wire is in step 1.

Materials:

24 OR 26 gauge wire
2-4 end caps (optional)
20 gauge wire (optional)
Jump ring and clasp
Bead or large hole slider (optional)

Tools:
Wire cutters
Round nose pliers (optional)
Dowel (discussed in step 1)
Rubber band or painters tape
Draw plate, knitting needle gauge or leather
glove. (discussed in step 1)
Ruler or measuring tape
The second photo is of end caps, Ill also show
you how to make your own cones for the ends.
The third photo is a wooden draw plate and a
knitting needle gauge. The fourth is a knitting
needle, a wooden dowel and an allen wrench, all
of which can be used. If you have a vise, that will
come in extremely handy too, so grab that heavy
thing and lets get started! There are two versions
taught here so do read the entire tutorial prior to
beginning

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 1: The first thing I want to discuss is wire.

24 gauge is my choice in this project. 28 will give
you a finer bracelet however. But it is also more
likely to work harden and break. (that can be
fixed) The size of your piece depends on the
dowel size, here I use an 8mm dowel, you can
choose from many sizes. I recommend starting
out with just a sample piece as that will show you
how long it will get after you pull it through the
draw plate. It is rigid/stiff prior to being pulled.
After it is slinky and fluid. The larger your dowel
the larger your piece will end up. Also how many
loops you start with will have an effect on the
final resultso experiment first! (a glove can be
used in place of a draw plate or knitting needle
gauge, however results are better with a wooden
draw plate. Well talk more about that later.
Step 2: You can use 20 gauge wire for this, but I
use 24 gauge. Either will work. 24 is just easier
to form in this step. Again, it might be an
experiment in what works best for you. A tutorial
is difficult for the writer, as they want to be next
to you teaching you. I will try to get ALL the
important details in here!
With a credit card, ruler, something if that size,
wrap your wire (about 12 inches, depending on
what you are wrapping around) wrap you wire
around loosely, 4 or 5 times leaving 2 inch tails at
EACH end. Again the number of loops you make
is another big option. 3 will not give you a nice
piece. 4,5,6, they will. The more loops the larger
the dowel may need to be. Loops are talked
about next.
Step 3: Here is the piece we just wrapped OFF
the tool. I am using 5 loops. You may be using
4, thats fine!!! You want these all the same
length. These are what your Viking Knit will be
built from so this is a very important step, keep
in mind however, that the ends will not be seen
so if there is a mistake in the beginning, its okay.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 4: Next take those two inch tails and wrap

them around the middle of the structure. Make
sure they are secure.

Step 5: Spread out all your loops, evenly spaced

between each one. Mine are fairly long, if yours
are shorter, that is fine.

Step 6: Now you put the very middle of the

above piece on the dowel. All your loops should
be the same length. Then secure that piece onto
the dowel with a rubber band or painters tape.
Bend the ends out, it just makes it easier. Just
like I did here, in the photo.
You can now put the bottom of this in a bench
vice, leaving both hands free if you want. I do it
both ways, at times holding the dowel,
sometimes putting it in the vice. From here on I
will call this the daisy and daisy petals.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 7: Now well start our wire. I cut 3 feet to

start with. I dont work with longer pieces for two
reasons: it is difficult to handle the long wire and
keep it from kinking up, and this will work
harden. You will notice the further you get on the
Knit the harder your wire is to work with. I,
later, show you how to end and start a new wire.
If you choose longer, thats fine.
At the top, the arrow is showing you my wire I
will now be working with. Wrap snug just
above the top of your dowel.

Step 8: A is the wire we just attached. Bring it

down the dowel. B is that same wire going back
up, C is the wire passing through your first two
(any two) side by side daisys. Notice how it goes
in one daisy, passes behind two daisy sides and
comes out at the second daisy. ( C )

Step 9: The bottom wire going to the right is C

in the above picture. You want to bring it down
over the top of itself and make this small loop
just as you see. Dont worry about wire A. Well
work with that later.

Step 10: Go to the next daisy petal to your right

and thread the wire through, behind it and the
prior daisy petal sides and out the middle. Just as
you see here. We used 2 daisy petals in the step
above, now we are on the 3rd daisy petal to the
right. Well work our way around the dowel.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 11: NOTE: if you see this, Stop and

straighten it out. This will end up as a kink and
become brittle, possible even get caught. Always
watch for this.

Step 12: Pulling down and going over the top of

the wire, this is still that third daisy petal. The
wires between the loops we are forming are
called swags. A word about swags. The swags
are the wires between the places you thread in
and come out again. These, formed close
together will make a more substantial piece. The
more the swags curve downward, the lacier and
more delicate your bracelet will be. This is why a
couple of good test pieces are a good idea. Youll
find what you like best.

Step 13: Keep threading through the next daisy

loop to your right (if you are left handed, then I
imagine it will be YOUR left). Do this around the
entire dowel.

Step 14: From time to time its a good idea to

straighten the loops if needed. If you start this in
the beginning, it will keep it going nice and even.
Each loop you make should be directly under the
loop above it. As it gets longer well straighten it
another way. Thats coming up.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 15: We will now meet the place we brought

our wire down from the connection on top. (steps
7-8) Thread youf wire through the daisy petal,
behind that petals wire and the one before it,
AND that piece from the beginning. It wont show
in the end result. Now youve gone once around
the dowel.

Step 16: This is the second round on the dowel.

We go behind the loops made in the above steps.
See my wire? Thread your wire behind that loop
made during the first round on the dowel. Just
as you see. Follow the photos closely, they speak
better than words. Continue this all the way
around the dowel. It just continuous around and
around the dowel.

Step 17: Keep going around the dowel, no

changes, same technique. See step 19 for a good
reference photo.

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Step 18: TIP, if the loops are too tight and you
find you cant thread your wire behind them (this
is only once in a while, Ive never seen it happen
as a total piece problem) stick a small nail or
wire behind as you see here, and pull it out just a
tiny bit. Then thread your wire through and keep
the motion going!

Step 19: These swags are larger swags. IF I

pulled tighter and left less space between the
swags (wire between our loops) the bracelet
would be more dense. This will have a lacy look.
Its a preference thing. Do what you like best!

Step 20: If you are working on a short dowel or

wrench, you can pull the top up and off the dowel
easily to give you space to work.

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Step 21: IF your loops are not one right under

the other (that happens often ) you can pull the
Viking Knit off the dowel and straighten it out
with a light hand. Then just slip it back on.

Step 22: ADDING A NEW WIRE: as I do not work

with long lengths I need to add wire often. You
see I have made a loop and I know my wire is
getting short. You want at least on this tail
as we add new wire. Bring that last bit of wire
down the dowel just as you see in the picture.

Cut your new wire and slip it behind the last loop
you just made. BEHIND, then pull that wire all
the way through until you have about inch at
the end. The arrow is showing you more clearly,
where my new wire is being threaded.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 23: Ive pull it all the way through and have
my short end (B). I will now connect that piece to
the tail we already have (A)

Step 24: Here, A and B are twisted together.

Pliers or your fingers, either way is fine.

Step 25: I snip the twisted wires off, as you see

here, and then we proceed in the same fashion as
we have been doing this. The arrow is the new
wire Im now working with.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 26: After going all the way around the

dowel, you will come back to the place where we
just added wire. I am acting as if there is
nothing different there. Just proceed with your
loops around the dowel. This will not show in the
end product.

Step 27: A photo of my wire at the next loop,

you can barely see the connection.

Step 28: When you have reached the end of your

piece, your desired length, leave a 2-3 inch tail.
Pull the piece off of the dowel.

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Step 29: Here you see my tail. I am going to

thread it through the loops on top in preparation
for the end caps.

Step 30: Simply thread it in and out of each loop

and pull tight.

Step 31: It should look like this.

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Step 32: We will know pull the piece through the

draw plate. (if you dont have a draw plate or a
knitting needle gaugeput on a leather glove and
pull it grasp it lightly, and pull it through several
times) start at the closest fit to your piece. This
is often referred to as When the magic happens,
as it goes from being a stiff piece to a fluid and
compact chain. Pull through twice on the first
hole (best fit) then go down to the next smaller
hole. Continue only until it is the size you want it.
(it will lengthen and get thinner) IF it feels like it
will not go through any more.stop as you may
snap some wires.

Step 33: There are many charts that tell you

how long to make the Viking knit and how long it
will be when you pull it through the Draw Plate.
They are highly inaccurate. It depends on many
factors, your swags, your tightness just to name
a few. I find that the 5 daisy petal larger swag
pieces I do will gain 2 inches for every 4-5 pre
draw plate. However it is rarely the same. My
theory is more is better but too little works, as
you can add beads, bigger clasps etc. You can
see here, the right side has not yet gone through
the plate and its larger. The left is more
delicateand its been through the plate just as
far as you see. Its kind of neat!!
Step 34: You can now cut off the daisy we
started with and pull out these pieces you see
here. Discard them.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 35: Add 3-4 Inches of the same gauge wire

the way we did in steps 29-31. You can have two
tails or one, it really doesnt matter.

Step 36: Thread your bead cap over the tail. Fit
it neatly over your Viking knit. (these come in
many sizes, also there is a cone you can make
yourself. That is done later in this tutorial.

Step 37: You can add jump rings here, however I

go directly to my clasp. Thread it through.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 38: I thread it around the clasp connection

twice then wrap it around the area the wire
comes out of the bead cap. Wrap until it is flush
and neat looking. (this is not done, but I did
make it nice, I promise! )

Step 39: A sample of the wide variety of large

hole beads you can slide onto this piece, if you
desire. Some also come with rings on them, those
work great. Ad charms to lobster clasps and hook
them on, changing it as often as you want! (You
can leave this bracelet with no bead or slideits
beautiful either way.

Step 40: I chose this one. Its a little big for the
VK, but I like it.

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Step 41: After you put your bead or slide on you

can put your end cap on, then a jump ring or
large ring to hook you clasp onto. This is the
same as in steps 36-38.

Step 42: One more thing you can do with this:

string beads smaller that the circumference of
your Viking Knit. Pull them through the length
and secure at both ends. IT looks great! This is
my finished viking knit piece. Looks great with
everything you wear!!! Make it your style by
picking beads and end caps you like.

Step 43: SECOND VERSION. Bead In The

Middle.
Find the middle of your length of Viking knit, be it
a bracelet or a necklace.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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Step 44: Go ahead (I know this is hard to

dojust seems wrong after so much work right?)
Yes, go ahead and snip that in half at the mid
point. Discard any scraps you may have fall off.

Step 45: You will need to open the VK at both

ends of both the newly cut pieces. I use a pen,
just like you see here. We are doing this so we
can get a wire through the piecesso this does
not have to be HUGE.

Step 46: Making a CONE: If you want to make

your own cones for the ends of your piece, do so
by wrapping 20-21 gauge wire around a round
nose pliers, or the end of a pen or pencil.

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Step 47: Keep wrapping until you get the size

you want. (that is your choice)

Step 48: Snip off the ends. With a pliers, tuck

them just inside the coil so they wont be seen or
scratch you.

Step 49: Finished small coil. To avoid the tool

marks you see here, you can put electrical tape
on your tools. (this is a macro shot, the tool
marks rarely show to the naked eye)

Step 50: You know cut a length of dead soft or

half hard 20- 21 gauge wire 4 inches longer than
your finished piece will be. Run it through the first
half of the viking knit we cut. Add the coil or end
cap.

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Step 51: Add your bead, then another cone, then

the next piece of Viking knit and another cone at
each of the ends.

Step 52: The white line is showing where my

wire goes through every piece of this bracelet.
(dead soft keeps it a more fluid piece by the way)
YOU choose!!!

Step 53: I have 2 inches at each end. Make them

into loops like this, leaving enough to coil, see
next pic.

Step 54: Coil around the wire itself just after the
end cap coil. Do this to both ends.

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Step 55: One end will remain round. The other

will be bent as shown here. This is your hook.

Step 56: And there you go! Easy clasp!

Step 57: You know have a striking piece of new

jewelry!!! Take this and have fun with it, make it
your ownand one more thing: (next page
please)

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Step 58: The variations are really fun with this.

This particular piece was done with brass and
silver wire. You do this , wires together, threading
and weaving your viking knit with both wires at
the same time. It can be a little tricky at first, but
well worth the effort.
No go have fun!!!

PLEASE DO NOT LEND, SHARE OR DUPLICATE

THIS TUTORIAL WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION
OF THE AUTHER. IF YOU WISH TO TEACH THE
VIKING KNIT PLEASE PURCHASE ONE COPY PER
STUDENT AND ASK THE AUTHER FOR WRITTEN
PERMISSION TO TEACH
POLICY OF ALL L.A.B. TUTORIALS.

Copyright 2013 LINDA A. BERGSTROM

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