TI P S T O O L S T E C H N I Q U E S

TaI e Saw Workstation

Features:
Fold-UpOutteedTable
Roll-AroundStorageCabinets
pace-Sa ing RouterTableExtension

Tongue & Groove Joinery Router Table Tips

Table Saw Upgrade: Precision T-Square Rip Fence
ww,w.shopnotes.com

ar

SINotes
Issue 50

M a r c h

2000

PUBLISHER Donald B. Peschke

EDITOR ' r i m Robertson
ASSOCIATEEDITOR TO M B e g
ASSISTANTEDITOR B r y a n Nelson
ARTDIRECTOR C a r y Christensen
SR.GRAPHICDESIGNER K u r t Schultz
SENIORILLUSTRATORS Roger Reiland
Mark Higdon
CREATIVERESOURCES
Creative Director: Ted Kralicek Project Developer:
Ken Mtmkel Senior Project Designer: Kevin Boyle
Project Coordinator: K e n t Welsh Shop Manager:
Steve Curtis Shop Craftsman: Steve Johnson Senior
Photographerr. Crayola England

SPECIALPUBLICATIONS
Executive Editor: Douglas L. Hicks Art Director: Steve
Lueder Sr. Graphic Designers: Chris Glowacki, Cheryl
L. Simpson Asst. Editors:Joe Irwin, Craig Ruegsegger
Graphic Designer: Vu Nguyen

CIRCULATION
Sub.Serv.Dir: SandyBawn New Bus. Dir:GlendaBattles
Circ. Marketing Analyst: Kris Schlemmer Creative
Mgr.: Melinda Haffner Renewal Mgr: Paige Rogers Sr.
Graphic Designer. Mark Hayes Billing Mgr: Rebecca
Cunningham Prom. Mgr.: Mac Junkins New Bus. Mg)::
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CORPORATESERVICES
Controller Robin Hutchinson Sn Accountant: Laura
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EDITOR'S N O T E

Cutoffs
feed table. This makes it easy to modify
O
visiting other woodworkers' shops the workstation to fit your needs. You
can build all three of the projects, or just
is it always seems to trigger a new idea.
Sometimes it's a clever jig or a handy one. No matter what, it's sure to make a
storage solution. Other times I come away great addition t o your shop. (We've
included a series of articles with step-bywith a great new tip.
Well, recently I was poking around step instructions for building each part of
Ted's shop. ( Te d i s o u r creative the workstation beginning on page 6.)
director.) It's nothing fancy really, just a
THEWORKSHOP
basement shop with concrete block
walls and fluorescent lights. But there's The table saw workstation is a good
one thing that caught my eye right away. example of how a visit to just one shop
WORKSTATION. Sitting smack-dab in can "mushroom" into a great project that
the middle of the shop is what Ted calls may benefit thousands of woodworkers.
That got me thinking about somea workstation. To tell you the truth, I'm not
so sure it isn't more of a play area. But no thing new I'd like to try in ShopNotes.
The idea is to visit
matter what you
call it, the whole
Ted calls it a workstation, other woodworkers'
shops and then feathing i s centered
but I'm not so sure it isn't ture
a number of
around his table saw.
Mounted to the
those shops in our
more of a play area.
table s a w i s a
upcoming issues.
But in order to make this work, I need
heavy-duty rip fence and large extension
wing. Together with a removable out- your help. If you'd like us to visit your
feed support, they make it easy to rip shop (or you know someone who has an
wide sheets of material.
interesting shop), give us a "sneak preNow that would be a major improve- view" of it by sending a few photos and a
ment all by itself. But there's more. To brief description.
Keep in mind that it doesn't have to be
save space, the wing doubles as a router
table with an adjustable fence. And a a big, fancy shop. In fact, maybe it's just
cabinet that helps support the wing pro- like Ted's shop, and it only occupies a
small area in the basement.
vides extra storage underneath.
All in all, Ted's workstation seemed
If this sounds like something you're
interested
in, send a peek of your shop
like a great idea a single, self-contained unit that accomplished a variety to: ShopNotes (Attn.: Tim Robertson),
of jobs. In fact, it seemed like an ideal 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312.
project to feature in ShopNotes.
HELPWANTED
So we kicked the idea around, made a
few changes and improvements, and built One final note. We're looking for editors,
our own version. (To see how it turned illustrators, and graphic designers who
are enthusiastic about woodworking
out, take a look at the front cover.)
Now I realize that this may seem like and home improvement to join us here
a large, ambitious project. But it's really at August Home Publishing. I f you're
not. Actually, it's a collection of three sep- interested in any of these positions, send
arate projects: a set of roll-around cabi- a letter and resume to: S. Ribbey, 2200
nets, a router table extension, and an out- Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312.

PRINTED IN U.S.A.

Shop Notes

No. 50

ISSUE F I F T Y

Contents
Features
Table Saw Workstation

A table saw is one of the most versatile tools in a shop.

Now you can make it even better Here's a quick overview
of three great projects we're featuring in this issue that will
convert your table saw into a complete workstation.

Router Table Extension

Router Table Extension p a g e 8

This router table replaces the extension wing on your table

saw Besides saving space, a lift-out insert plate, miter gauge
slot, and adjustable fence make it extremely versatile as well.

Table Saw Cabineto

Add weight and stability to your table saw by mounting it

to these roll-around cabinets. Then enjoy the storage,
mobility and built-in dust collection they provide.

Tongue & Groove Joinery

A tongue and groove joint is an ideal solution when it

comes to joining solid wood and plywood. We show you a
few simple tricks to cut these joints quickly and accurately

Fold-Up Outfeed Table

Table Saw Cabinets

page 16

Tongue & Groove

page 24

If you're ripping long boards, i t only takes a second to

hook this outfeed table onto the table saw. Plus, its unique
design lets you fold the table for storage.

Departments
Readers' Tips

Our readers offer their own shop-tested tips dealing with

some of the most common woodworking problems.

Router Table Tips

Five great tips to get the most out of your router table.

Tool Talk

Tips and talk about tools of our trade. In this issue, we take
a look at a precision, T-square rip fence for your table saw

Z20urceo

Hardware, supplies, a n d mail-order sources f o r the

projects featured in this issue.

No. 50

Fold-Up Outfeed Table p a g e 26

3

TIPS & T E C H N I Q U E S

Readers' Tips
Magnetic Featherbtoard
Sometimes clamping a
featherboard to the table
saw is more trouble than
it's worth. The cast ribs
underneath the saw table
always get in the way of the
clamps. And when I need to move
the featherboard just a hair, it's a nuisance to reposition the clamps.
To help simplify things, I made a
magnetic featherboard that attaches
to the table saw i n seconds, see
photo. The key to this featherboard is a
pair of magnetic bases like the kind
SIZE WIDTH
OF RAE3BET
TO FIT
MAGNETIC
EASE

used to hold a dial indicator, see

photo at left and Sources on page 31.
The unusual thing about these
bases is that each one has a switch
that lets you turn the magnetic field
on or off. Once the featherboard is in
position, you simply flip on both
switches to secure it to the saw table.
To reposition (or remove) the featherboard, just turn the switches off.
To make this work, the featherboard is attached to an L-shaped
support, see drawing. After cutting
an angled notch to fit the feather-

board, I rabbeted each end of the top

to fit the magnetic bases. A threaded
hole in the top of each base makes it
easy to bolt them to the support.
Stephen Wysocki
Grand Terrace, California

# 5 x 11/2" Ph
WOODSCREW

CUT ANGLED
NOTCH TO FIT
FEATHEREOARD

TOP
(21/2" x 101/2" 3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

5
34,
WASHER

TOP VIEW

FRONT
(2
3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

BOLT

ON/OFF
SWITCH

# 5 x 11/2" Ph
WOODSCREW
MAGNETIC
BASE

FEATHERDOARP

FEATHER5OARD

6"-

0
HARDWOOD)

Quick

A There's more than one way to keep a

nut from vibrating loose from a bolt. In a
pinch, Joe Strongbow of Austin, TX uses a
dab of hot glue to "lock" the nut on the bolt.
4

A When adjusting a tool, it only takes a

second for Jim Wheeler of Plainfield, IN to
find the correct Allen wrench. That's because
its painted to match the adjustment screw
ShopNotes

A The exhaust port on a shop vacuum Alk

often stirs up a lot of dust. So Erik Masonger
of Fleurimont, Quebec installs a plastic
90c elbow to direct the air straight op,

No. 50

nving-Out Tool 0ar

Like many woodworkers, I have a

limited amount of wall space in my
shop. So I'm always looking for ways
to increase the usable amount of space.
That's the idea behind this wallmounted tool tool bar, see drawing.
Besides holding a number of hand
tools, the bar swings out from the
wall. This provides easy access to
additional tools behind the tool bar.
The tool bar consists o f three
parts: a pivot arm with a number of
holes drilled in it to hold the tools, a
pair of support blocks that "sandwich"
the arm between them, and a mounting

plate that attaches to the wall.

Before assembling the tool bar, I
cut an arc on the outside end of each
support block and on both ends of
the pivot arm. This removes the
sharp corners, and it allows the pivot
arm to swing freely without binding.
To create a pivot point, I used a
bolt that passes through a hole in
each support block and the pivot arm.
Tightening a lock nut on the end of
the bolt so it's just snug holds the
arm in place yet still allows it to pivot.
Adolph Peschke
Des Moines, Iowa

#E, x 2 P h

---1/4" x 2
DRILL H O L E S IN
PIVOT ARM
TO FIT TOOLS

WOOD

SCREW

SUPPORT
DLOCK
(3" x 31/4")

# 8 x 2 " Ph
WOODOCREW

MOUNTING
PLATE
(3" x S " )
1/4" LOCK NUT Y
AND WASHER

- PIVOT ARM
(3" x 14-")

NOTE

ALL PIECES ARE M A D E

FROM 3/4-THICK STOCK

Cord Keeper
There's nothing more frustrating
than having a power cord get jerked
out of an electrical outlet in the middle
of a job. Especially if I'm working on
a project outside, and the power tool
is plugged into a long extension cord.

T o prevent that, I mount a "cord

keeper" to the wall directly below the
outlet, see drawing. It squeezes the
WALL
STUD

cord (or cords) between two wood

blocks. So even if I tug on the cord, it
stays plugged into the wall outlet.
The cords fit into two grooves that
are routed in a mounting block. I used
a core box bit in a table-mounted
router to cut each groove. This creates a curved bottom that allows the
cord to nestle into the block. Just be

TOP VIEW

MOUNTING
DLOCK

WALL
- S T U D

MOUNTING
BLOCK
se"
x10"1/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)
EXTENSION
CORD

3
FLATHEAD
MACHINE
SCREW

COVER

RUDDER
- STRIP

R I P S CUT FROM
DICYCLE INNER TUDE
N O T E : DEPTH OF
GROOVE IN MOUNTING
I3LOCK IS ONE-HALF
CORD DIAMETER
3
WASHER 3 4
KNOE3

3
DOWEL

GROOVE

EXTENSION
CORD

--- COVER

x10"3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

3
SLOT

No. 50

ShopNotes

sure the groove is shallow enough to

allow the cord to stick up above the
mounting block, see Top View. This
will allow the wood cover of the cord
keeper to exert pressure against it.
To produce this pressure, a long
slot in the cover fits over a machine
screw that's installed in the mounting
block. Tightening a knob on the
screw holds the cover in place.
Before screwing the cord keeper
to the wall, I glued a short dowel
into a hole in the mounting block to
help align the cover. Also, gluing a
couple of thin rubber strips to the
cover will help improve its grip. (I
cut scraps of rubber from an old
bicycle inner tube.)
David Walls
Saint Albans, West Virginia

FREE
Online Tips
If you'd like even
more woodworking
tips, the solution
is simple. Just
visit us at our
website and sign
up to receive a
free tip via email
every week.
www.shopflotes.COM

Send in Your Shop Tips

If you have a unique shop tip, we'd like
to consider featuring it in one or more of
our print or electronic publications.
We'll pay up to $200 for a tip we publish. Just write down the tip and mail it
to ShopNotes, Attn.: Readers' Tips, 2200
Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312. Or
FAX it to 515-282-6741, or send us an
e-mail at shopnotesgshopnotes.com.
Please include your name, address
and daytime phone number in case we
have any questions.

Table Saw

Workstation
Take one of the
most versatile
tools in your shop
and make it even
better That's the
idea behind this
roll-around table
saw station.

I 'm
looking
forwhy
waysI'm
to so
make
improvements
to
myalways
table saw.
That's
impressed
with how
this table saw workstation turned out
RIP FENCE. It started out simply enough. I installed a
new T-square rip fence that was more accurate than my
old fence and made it easy to rip large sheets of material,
see photo A below. (For more information, see page 30.)
TABLE EXTENSION. Well one thing soon led to another.
Now the fence had the capacity to rip wide pieces. But I
needed a large extension table to support them. So I built
an extension table that attaches to the side of the saw.
ROUTER TABLE. This table provided an ideal way to
save some space in the shop. That's because it doubles as

A. Rip Fence. Adding a precision rip fence

and a large extension table makes it easy
to rip sheet material up to 40" wide.
6

a router table, see photo B. I even added an adjustable

fence so I can use the router table and the table saw
without having to "break down" either setup. (Plans for
building the router table extension begin on page 8.)
CABINETS. The table saw and router table are supported by three cabinets that are "ganged" together as a
single unit (For a compact version, see page 7.) These
cabinets provide storage, a built-in dust collection system,
and a unique caster system that's definitely worth a close
look. (Turn to page 16 for step-by-step plans.)
OUTFEED SUPPORT. Finally, to "catch" a long workpiece as it comes off the saw table, I added an outfeed
support that folds for storage, see photo C and page 26.

B. Router Table. To save space, the

extension table doubles as a router
table. There's even a removable fence.

ShopNotes

C. Outfeed Support. A simple out feed

table provides plenty o f support
when ripping a long workpiece,

No. 50

F E AT U R E P R O J E C T
Fold-up
, - - - W e e d table
/ ( s e e page 26)

Removable insert plate

makes i t easy t o change b i t s

7
Adjustable
router fence
(see page 12)

Shop-made
extension table
doubles as
router table
(see rage b )

T-square rip fence

lets you rip material
up t o 4 0 " wide
(see page 3 0 )
S u p p o r t frame
holds up end
of router
table extension
Angled
support
folds for
compact
storage

Drawers in storage
cabinets hold portable
power tools, router
bits, and saw blades
(see page 23)

LEG
LEVELER - - '

EXPLODED VIEW
1/
LAG SCREW

Heavy-duty caster
assemblies let you roll
workstation around, then
lower i t onto leg levelers

Wide, hardwood apron

adds rigidity t o base
o f workstation

CompactTable Saw Station

If space is limited, one solution is to build

this compact version of the table saw station.
RIP FENCE. Here again, the idea is to start
with a T-square rip fence. But this fence has a
smaller rip capacity (28"), so the guide rail is shorter.
ROUTER TABLE EXTENSION. This means that the
extension table is smaller. Even so, there's still plenty
of room to add a router table and fence.
TWO CABINETS. Since the overall size of the worksurface is smaller, you'll only need to build two cabinets
instead of three. Just be sure to make the two end cabinets that are designed to house the caster assemblies.

No. 50

FALSE
FRONT

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

70"W x 37"H x 313/4

(Without outfeeci table)

This space-saving
router table
replaces the metal
extension wing on
your table saw.

, don't ever recall meeting a woodLworker who complained that his

shop was too big. But whether it's
large or small, it's important to get the
most efficient use out of the space
that is available.
That's what I like about this router
table extension. I t saves space by
accomplishing two different jobs.

SUPPORT
RAIL

EXTENSION TABLE. First of all, it's

a large extension table that provides
extra support when ripping wide
material on the table saw. That's just
what I needed when I installed a new
T-square style rip fence on my table
saw. (For more information about
this fence, refer to page 30.) Note:
This table is a permanent replace-

FRAME. T o c r e a t e a f i a t , s o l i d

INSERT
PLATE

- - - N O T E : USE ORIGINAL
MOUNTING DOLTS
TO SECURE TASLE

SLOT

111
* 4 1 1 4 1 .

SUPPORT
FRAME
ENO
CASINET

ShopNotes

ment for the metal wing on the saw.

ROUTER TABLE To take advantage
of the large worksurface, the extension table doubles as a router table.
The router is mounted to an insert
plate that lifts i n and out o f an
opening in the table. This makes it
easy to change bits. Plus, there's an
adjustable fence that can be attached
to the table (or removed) in seconds.
worksurface, the router table is supported by a rigid frame that's made
up of 3
Fig. 2. (I used maple.)
The overall width of this frame is
determined by the front to back
dimension of the metal wing on the
table saw. (In my case, this was 27")
As for length, I wanted it to be flush
with the end of the guide rail for the
rip fence. (I made a 3 9
The frame starts out as two long
rails (A) connected by five stretchers
(B), see Fig. 2 . Tw o o f these
stretchers work together with a pair
of short rails (C) t o support the
insert plate that holds the router. To
lay out the location of these four
pieces, you'll need the insert plate.
INSERT PLATE. I bought my plate
with pre-drilled holes. It's made of
3

No. 50

INSERT PLATE
(10
%"-THICK PHENOLIC)

rigid plastic that won't sag.

'MOUT. With the insert plate in
hand, you can use it to establish the
location of the two stretchers and a
pair of dadoes that hold the short rails.
The goal is to have the edges of the
insert centered on the thickness of
these frame pieces, see detail in Fig. 2.

SHORT RAIL
(2" x 1 0 " )
(2" x 2 5
STRETCHER

1.0

ASSEMBLE FRAME. A f t e r cutting

the dadoes, the frame i s simply

screwed together. I also screwed a
cleat (D) flush with the top edge of
the frame. Later, it helps "beef up" the
area below the miter gauge slot in
the table, see detail 'c' on page 8.
TOP. With the frame complete,
the next step is to add the top (E) of
the table, see Fig. 3. It's a large piece
of 1/2" medium-density fiberboard
(MDF) that's sized to fit flush with
the outside of the frame.
For clearance when mounting the
table, there a r e three shallow
"pockets" underneath the top, see
margin and Fig. 3. After using the
existing mounting holes in the table
A l i saw to locate these pockets, a handl e r held router and straight bit make
quick work of cutting each recess.
You'll also need to cut three notches
in the end of the frame that mounts
to the table saw, see Fig. 3a. The
notches allow the mounting bolts to
pass through the frame. Note: I made
them oversize to allow for adjustment
After screwing the top to the frame,
it's covered with plastic laminate to
create a smooth, durable worksurface.

'11111111'- 1 / 4 " - D E E P 1 1 .

0AL

LONG
(DI
(2" x 3RAIL
9")

TOP VIEW

"
tieS X 2" Ph
WOODSCREWS

A
I, L O N G
STRETCHER R A I L
SHORT
' R A I L

NOTE:
C L E AT
(2" x 251/2")

INSERT
PLATE

I used contact cement to glue on an

oversize piece and then trimmed the
edges with a router and flush trim bit.
MOUNT TABLE. Now you're ready
to mount the table to the saw. The
goal is to make the surface of the
table level with the cast iron saw
table. Start by bolting one end of the
table loosely to the saw, see Figs. 1
and la. To hold up the other end, I
used a pipe clamp as a temporary
prop, see Fig. 4. Note: You may need
to shim the bottom end of the clamp.
After using a straightedge t o
check that both surfaces are level,
tighten the mounting bolts. Then

A
L
L
PIECES
A R E M A D E FROM
3/4-THICK HARDWOOD

just attach the metal support rails of

the fence to the table with machine
screws and nuts, see Fig. lb.
At this point, the table is pretty
secure. But the outside end still
needs to be supported. This can be
something as simple as a pair of legs.
SUPPORT FRAME. Or if you build
the cabinets shown on page 6, you
can make a support frame, see Fig. 4.
It consists of a pair of hardwood
uprights (F) and two mounting strips
(G) that are assembled with rabbet
joints and screws. The support frame
is simply screwed to the cabinet and
table, see Figs. 4a and 4b.

A A shallow pocket
underneath the
table provides
clearance for a
wrench when
installing the
mounting bolts.

#E3x1
WOOPSCREW
PLASTIC
LAMINATE
(27" x 3 9 " )

MOUNTING
HARDWOOD)

TOP
(27' x 39"
1
7_ STRETCHER
(
UPRIGHT

UPRIGHT

(2" x CUSTOM
LENGTH 5
HAROW000)

NOTE:
CENTER NOTCHES
AND POCKETS ON EXISTING
MOUNTING HOLES IN TASLE S AW

No. 50

CUT
NOTCH 5
STRETCHER

ShopNotes

JIGS & A C C E S S O R I E S

Insert Plate
After mounting the extension table to the saw, I added
the insert plate that holds the router. It fits in a recessed
opening in the table, see photo.
The only tricky part to adding an insert plate is cutting
the recess. To hold the router securely, the insert plate
has to fit the recess exactly.
ROUGH OPENING. To accomplish this, I started by
cutting a rough opening, see Step 1. Then I trimmed the
edges of the opening flush with the frame pieces below it.
ROUT LIP. Now you can rout the recessed lip for the
insert plate to rest on. The secret to getting the outline of

1 To create the opening in the

table for the insert plate, start
by drilling a hole just inside each
corner o f the framed opening
below it, see detail 'a.' Then after
removing the waste with a sabre
saw, use a hand-held router and
flush trim bit to trim the edges of
the opening flush with the frame
pieces, see detail 'b.'

the lip to match the plate is to use the plate itself as a guide
for positioning four guide strips, see Step 2. The strips
guide the bearing on a pattern bit as you rout the lip.
Note: The cutting edges of the bit I used are 1" long.
So to provide a surface for the bearing to ride against, I
glued up two layers of material to make 1"-thick strips.
MOUNT ROUTER. After routing the lip, all that's left is
to mount the router to the insert plate, see Step 3.
T H I R D : TRIM EDGES
FLUSH WITH FRAME
(

SECOND:

REMOVE WASTE
WITH S A B E R S AW
F I R S T: D R I L L
CLEARANCE HOLES
(SEE DETAIL 'a')

N O T E : ATTACH GUIDE
STRIPS WITH
CARPET TAPE

2 The
next
to use
a Ih"
pattern
bitstep
in a is
router
to cut
a
recessed l i p i n t h e extension
table. To do this, center the insert
plate over the opening and butt
the guide strips against it, s e e
detail 'a.' After adjusting the depth
of cut (see margin), use the strips
to guide the bearing on the bit as
you rout in a clockwise direction,
see detail 'b.'
A To accurately set
the depth of cut,
place the insert
plate on a guide
strip. Then set the
router on top of the
plate and lower the
bit until it barely
touches the tabie.

GUIDE
STRIP

GUIDE
STRIPS

INSERT PLATE

MACHINE SCREW

3 A
l l that's
leftinsert
is to attach
the
router
to the
plate. This
requires drilling holes f o r t h e
machine screws that hold it in
place. An easy way to locate the
holes is to use the existing
base on your router, s e e
detail 'a.' Note: To keep the
base from shifting, I carpet-taped
it to the insert plate.

10

INSERT

PLATE

/
CARPET

TAPE

NOTE:

ROUTER EASE

CENTER EASE OVER

SIT OPENING A N D M A R K
HOLE LOCATIONS

ShopNotes

No. 50

Miter Gauge 5lot

At this point, the router table is almost complete. All that's
left is to rout a slot for the miter gauge.
To produce accurate results, the bar of the miter
gauge should slide smoothly in the slot without binding.
Yet it should be snug enough that there's no "play" when
you wiggle the head of the miter gauge.
GUIDE SITUPS. To create a perfect fit, I used two long
guide strips and a pattern bit mounted in the router.
(These are the two long guide strips used when routing
the lip.) Only this time, the miter gauge bar is sandwiched between the two strips, see Step 1.

ROUTSLOT. With the strips in place, you're ready to rout

the slot. I set the depth of cut using a similar procedure
as before. To do this, place the miter gauge bar on top of
one guide strip, and the router on top of the bar. Then
lower the bit to barely touch the table top. Now remove
the miter gauge and rout the slot, see Step 2.

N O T E : A11ACH GUIDE STRIPS

WITH CARPET
TAPE

MITER
GAUGE
BAR

STRIP

LONG
GUIDE
STRIPS

/ 1 1 A 1 1 1 1 1 1

4 1 1 V.
LONG

CARPET
TAPE

SIT

STRIP
0 - \ \ ; U I D E TABLE

GUDE
STRIP
- SLOT

TA SLE

11 To establish the location o f the miter gauge slot, carpet-tape

I_ one guide strip 4" from the end of the table, see detail 'a.' Then
position the second guide strip snugly against the miter gauge bar

When it comes to the electrical

hook-up for the router table,
there are a couple of options.
ROUTER SWITCH. The sim-

plest approach is to plug the

router into the nearest electrical
outlet. Then turn it on and off
using the switch on the router.
That works fine. But reaching under the table to
locate the switch can get to be a nuisance.
FRAME-MOUNTED SWITCH. A handier solution is

15 A M R
120 VOLT
SWITCH/ --RECEPTACLE

Electrical
GROUNDING
WIRE P I G TA I L
NUT

(/) 15 Amp.. 120 Volt

Switch/Receptacle
(1) Switch box
( 0 ) No. b Spade
Terminals (10114 ga.)
(2) Grounding Pigtail
(12 ga.)
(1) 3
Connector
(1) Wire Nut
Connector (Yellow)
(2) Ite x
Sheet Metal Screws

SWITCH
BOX - -

TO SILVER
SCREW No. b SPADE
TERMINAL
(16/14 GA.)

TO
GREEN
SCREW
SOX
COVER

TO
13KAS5
SCREW

to mount a switch to the support frame under the

table, see photo. To do this, run a short length of electrical cord (with a plug wired on one end) between a
wall outlet and a switch/receptacle, see drawing.
Then simply plug the power cord on the router into
the receptacle and you're all set.

No. 50

2 Using
cutt w
the
miter gaapattern
u g e s l bit
o t in
b ya router,
making
o
passes, one against each guide strip,

(1) Duplex box Cover

(1) 15 Amp., 125 Volt
Plug (Grounded)
16-35,1 Electric Cord
(14 feet)

NOTE:

-------- TO

DREAK
OFF TAB

- - FROM ROUTER

WALL
OUTLET

11

JIGS & A C C E S S O R I E S

Fence
5
FENDER
WASHER

As soon as the table extension was

completed, I set about building the
router fence. It consists of two main
parts: an L-shaped fence support that
attaches to the router table and a pair
of sliding faces, see Fig. 5.

5
(w/ 11/2" STUD)

COVER

BRACE

SLIDING FACE
FEATHERBOARD

FLAT
WASHER
A

(w/ THRU
HOLE)

FENCESUPPORT
The fence support serves as a
mounting surface for the sliding faces.
Plus it allows you to adjust the fence
in relation to the bit.
BASE. To create a stable
a . E N D VIEW
platform for the fence, I
TOILET
began by making a wide
B O LT-

A With a tall fence

and two sliding
faces, this router
table fence makes it
easy to produce
accurate results,

base ( H ) f r o m 1/2" MDF, see

COVER

Fig. 6. It's covered on both

BASE
sides with plastic laminate.
5
5
Besides creating a slick surKNOB
face that allows the fence to
L113?
slide smoothly, this ensures
I N S E RTTOPthat the base stays flat.
The next step is to rabbet the front chips and dust that are produced to
edge of the base to accept a fence be drawn up into a shop vacuum that
back (added later). I also cut a large hooks onto the back of the fence.
notch in the same edge. It prevents
ADJUSTMENT SLOTS. To make the
the base from getting chewed up by fence adjustable, I cut two long slots
the bit. Also, the notch allows the in the back edge of the base. These
FENCE SACK

5
KNOB
(WI THRU
HOLE)

(4
HARDWOOD)
5
FLAT
WASHER

# 8 x 11/2" Fh
WOODSCREW

x 13/4"
TOILET
BOLT

TAxH3CI

COVER
# 8 x 11/2" Fh
W ODSCREW

/4
11/2"
(
RADIUS

"

x
V

,
SASE
PLASTIC
LAMINATE

SLIDINGFACES
At this point, you can turn your attention to the two sliding faces. They provide a way to adjust the size of the
opening around the bit. By "closing"

N O T E : APPLY PLASTIC
LAMINATE TO BOTH
SIDES OF B A S E

12

slots fit over knobs that thread into

T-nuts in the table, see Figs. 5 and 5a.
To provide a range of adjustment,
there are three T-nuts on each side of
the table. An easy way to establish the
location of these T-nuts is to center
the base on the width of the table.
Then mark the centerline of each slot
and drill the holes 31/2" apart.
FENCE BACK. After installing the
T-nuts, I added a _fence back (I), see
Fig. 6. It's a wide (tall) piece of hardwood that supports the sliding faces.
Here again, there's a notch in the
bottom edge for bit clearance and
dust collection. Also, to provide away
to attach the sliding faces, I installed
four toilet bolts. (The bolts fit into Tslots in back of the sliding faces.)
BRACES. To hold the fence back
(I) square to the base, I added four
triangular braces O . These are just
pieces of 3
held in place with screws.
DUST HOOK-UP. Next, to collect
dust and chips, I added a hardboard
cover (K). After cutting a hole in the
cover for the vacuum hose and
beveling the edges to fit against the
fence, the cover is simply screwed to
the two braces.

ShopNotes

No. 50

the sliding faces around the bit, it prevents the end of a workpiece from
accidentally tipping into the opening.
LAYER CAKE. The sliding faces
start out as a single blank that's built
up like a layer cake, see Fig. 7. This
makes it easy to form T-shaped slots
on both sides of the sliding faces. As I
mentioned, the T-slots in back fit
over toilet bolts in the fence back.
The front slots hold toilet bolts that
are used to attach two leatherboards.
I started with a 3
wood core piece (L) and cut a wide,
shallow groove in each side, see Figs.
7 and 7a. The core piece is sandwiched between two 1
skins (M). Also, to create a durable
surface on the front of the fence, I
glued on a layer of plastic laminate.
Once the layers are all glued on,
you can complete the T-slot by cutting a narrow groove in each side,
see Fig. 7b. Now just separate the
blank into two equal-sized parts to
form the sliding faces. To provide
clearance for large bits, I also cut a
bevel on the inside end of each face,
see Fig. 7c.

FEATHERBOARDS
To hold a workpiece flat against the
table, I added two featherboards.
Each featherboard starts off as a
1/2-thick blank with both ends
mitered at 30', see Figs. 8 and 8c. To
apply downward pressure against a

SEE
DETAIL '12'

SKIN
(4a/4" x 3 3 " x 1/4"-THICK
HARPSOARD)

- -

RIP FENCE

-2

,
APPLY PLASTIC
LAMINATE TO
FRONT SIDE ONLY

1"

N O T E : CENTER NARROW
SLOT OVER WIDE SLOT

- TILT SAW
SLADE 45"

'Ao" )I1 1

CORE PIECE
(4

LAMINATE
SIDE UP

3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

workpiece, there are a number of

wood "fingers" on one end of the
featherboard. The trick is to space
the fingers evenly apart.
INDEX PIN. To do this, I used a
simple index pin and a wood fence
attached to the miter gauge on the
table saw. The pin is just a scrap
that's the same thickness as the
desired spacing of the fingers, see
Fig. 8a. (In my case, this was
To install the pin, start by tilting
the saw blade to 30' and cutting an
angled kerf in the miter gauge fence.
After gluing the pin in the kerf, you'll
need to reposition the fence on the
miter gauge. The idea is to screw it to
the miter gauge so the pin is 1
the blade (the width of a finger).

Now you're ready to make the fingers. Start by butting the edge of the
blank against the index pin. Then
clamp it to the fence and make a
single pass.
Once the first kerf is cut, slip it
over the index pin, see Fig. 8b. Then
reclamp the blank against the fence
and make another pass. To complete
all the fingers, just repeat the process.
Note: If the last finger is wider than
the others, you may need to trim the
waste from the edge.
ADJUSTMENT SLOTS. All that's left

to complete the featherboards is to

cut two adjustment slots. They allow
you to raise or lower the featherboards to apply pressure against
pieces of different thicknesses. d

WASTE
30'
MITER G A U G E
FENCE

HOLE

" N - s - S L A N K FOR
(

INDEX FIN
(
THICK K E E P
HARDWOOD)

HARDWOOD)
WASTE 0

-FEATHERSOARD

CUT OUT -

NOTE:

TILT SAW SLADE

TO 3 0 * A N G L E

INDEX
y PIN

No. 50

FINGER
TO M A K E
ADJUSTMENT
SLOT

viz
MITER
GAUGE

ShopNotes

V i AT E

F
N O T E : TRIM WASTE
OFF EDGE TO CREATE FINAL I V - WIDE FINGER

13

Hardware
(32) # 0 x 2" FP,
Woodsorews
(32) #0 x1
Wood screws
(4) #5 x 1
Woodocrews
( 4 ) #8
Woodsarews
(6)
012631:citi:/4"
(8)54e" Star Knob's
thru hole)
(2)
(w/ l e threaded stud)
(3)
(2) 5
Washers
(1) 1 0
Insert Plate

Router Table Tips

Routing Small Pieces
When routing small
pieces on a router table,
how do you keep them
from tipping hno the
hole in the insert plate?
One solution is to add
an auxiliary top made of
1
drawing. T o provide
clearance for the router
bit, you'll need to drill a
hole in the top. Note: Drill the hole
slightly larger than the bit.
All it takes to attach the top to the
router table is a few strips of carpet
tape. With the top in place, raise the
bit through the hole to the desired

height and you're ready to start

routing. The only problem is how to
safely hold a small workpiece.
The best way I found to do this is
to hold them with a rubber-bottom

Using a Starting Pin

STARTING
PIN

If you're using a piloted bit to rout an

irregular-shaped workpiece, the beginning
of a cut can be a bit tricky. That's because the
bit has a tendency to grab the workpiece.
To reduce the chance of that happening, I
use a starting pin, see photo. This is just a
cutoff bolt that threads into a hole in the
insert plate, see drawing.
It's easy to use a starting pin. Simply pivot the workpiece against the pin as you feed it into the bit. The pin
provides the leverage needed to make a controlled cut.

grout trowel, see photo. This way, I

can control the cut without getting
my fingers close to the bit. Note:
Grout trowels are available at most
hardware stores and home centers.

NOTE: MAKE
STARTINGPIN
FROM 1/4" x 2"
HEXBOLT

LOCATESTARTING
PIN21/2"FROM
CENTEROF
ROUTER IT

SECOND: FEED
WORKPIECE
INTOSIT
FIRST: PIVOT
WORKPIECE
AGAINSTPIN

STARTING
PIN
DRILL
ANDTAP
HOLEFORPIN
ININSERTPLATE

Routing End Grain

1
SLOCK

There are many times when I want to

rout the end of a narrow workpiece. The
problem is the wood fibers on the back edge
splinter as the bit exits the cut. Fortunately,
all it takes to produce a crisp, clean cut is a
simple backer block, see photo.
This is nothing more than a squared-up
scrap block that rides against the fence as
you push the workpiece past the bit, see
drawing. To prevent chipout, just be sure the
block is at least as thick as the workpiece.
14

ShopNotes

No. 50

TIPS F R O M O U R S H O P

Router Table Jointer

With just a strip of plastic laminate,
you can convert a router table into
an edge jointer, see photo at right. In
fact, a "router-jointer" puts a surprisingly straight edge on a workplece.
To turn a router table into an edge
jointer, simply attach the laminate to
the left (outfeed) side of the router

fence with carpet tape, see drawing.

The idea is to align one end of the
laminate with the opening in the
fence, see detail. I also file a bevel on
this end to reduce the chance of a
workpiece catching on the laminate.
STRAIGHT BIT. A l l i t takes t o
joint an edge is an ordinary straight

--___-------------,--------2,, _<-------.:_-->:_----------<------ )_ STRAIGHT , -_-_-_----- ------,-------

-----PLASTIC
------ L A M I N A T E
LAMI

N O T E : ATTACH
PLASTIC LAMINATE TO
ROUTER FENCE WITH CARPET TAPE

DEPTH
OF CUT

STRAIGHT
,- SIT

SEVEL E N D
OF LAMINATE

FENCE - -

WORKPIECE

TOP VIEW

bit. I prefer using a bit

with a 1/2" shank. The
thick shank helps reduce
vibration and chatter.
Note: One limitation with
this setup i s that the
thickness of the workpiece can't exceed the
length of the cutting edge on the bit
ALIGN FENCE. After mounting
the bit in the router, the next step is
to align the fence. The goal is to position the fence so the surface of the
laminate is flush with the outermost
cutting edge of the bit, see detail.
This will produce a cut that equals
the thickness of the laminate.
JOINT EDGE. After locking the
fence, you can turn the router on and
joint the edge of the workpiece. To
do this, hold the workpiece firmly
against the fence as you slide it past
the bit, making as many passes as
needed to produce a straight edge.

Using Templates
Few things in woodworking are
as frustrating as trying to make several irregular-shaped pieces exactly
the same. The solution is to use a
template and a flush trim bit. The
bearing on the bit rides against the
edge of the template and trims the
workpiece to the exact shape of the
template, see photo.
TEMPIATE. I use 1/4" hardboard to
make the template. It's an inexpen-

sive, hard material that doesn't have

any voids o r knots, and you can
shape it easily.
To make a template, start by
laying out the shape you want on the
hardboard. Or you can cut a full-size
pattern out of paper and glue it to the
hardboard. Then cut out the shape
slightly oversize, and file (or sand)
carefully up to the line.
Keep in mind that any notches or

STARTING
PIN
FLUSH TRIM
SIT

No. 50

ROUTING
DIRECTION

ShopNotes

gouges on the edge of

the template will show
up later on the finished
pieces, so it's important
to take the time to work
the edges smooth.
After the template is
made, attach i t to the
workpiece with carpet tape. Then use
a band saw (or sabre saw) to cut
around the template so the workpiece
is about 1/26" larger than the template.
Once the workpiece i s cut to
rough size, you can rout the last 1
of material with a flush trim bit on the
router table, see drawing. With the
template still taped to the top of the
workpiece, raise the router bit up
until the bearing rides on the edge of
the template, see detail. Then rout in
a clockwise direction around the bit
One thing to keep in mind is the
cutting edge of the bit. It should be
slightly longer than the thickness of
the workplece. That way, the bit trims
the entire thickness of the piece.

15

o engage a
heavy-duty caster
assembly in each
end of the cabinets,
just step down on a
wood lever and
slide it to the side.

These roll-around
cabinets add weight
and stability to a
table saw. Plus
they offer storage
and a built-in dust
collection system.

Table Saw

inets

A
station looks like it's supported by a single, long cabinet. But
it's not. Actually, there are three separate cabinets. Each one is built as an
individual unit. Then the cabinets are
set side by side like giant building
blocks and fastened together.
What's the purpose of building the
cabinets this way? One reason is it
simplifies the construction. Plus it
makes it easy to customize the work

station if you only want to build two

cabinets. (See page 7 for more on this.)
CASTERS. No matter which combination y o u choose, there's a
unique caster system housed in the
lower part of the end cabinets, see
inset photo above. It lets you raise
the cabinets onto the casters to roll
the workstation around. Once it's in
the desired location, you can lower it
off the casters and onto a set of levelers to create a stable workstation.

l i t e Ph
WOO DSCREW

/a
1

RAIL

L.
P

(3" x 163/4)

FRONT/
BACK

r"

BACK
PANEL

SIDE

CLEAT
CORNER
STRIP
,

NOTE: GLUE
CLEATS FLUSH
WITH TOP EDGE
OF SIDES

.
FRONT/
SACK
LOWER RAIL

rkTv.-

LOWER
RAIL

1
1

N O T E : STILES, RAILS,
AND CLEATS ARE
3

CL

SIDE

16

#5 x 1
WOODOCREW

ShopN otes

DUST COI LECTION. One thing you

don't see is what's inside the cabinet

that holds the table saw a built-in
dust collection system. It's designed
to be hooked up to a dust collector.
But don't worry if you don't have a
dust collector. There's a simple modification shown on page 17.

TABLESAWCABINET

STRIP

a r

STORAGE. The cabinets also provide plenty of storage. A set of three

deep drawers hold portable power
tools. And a shallow drawer keeps
saw blades and router bits handy.

I started by building the end cabinet

that holds the table saw. Basically,
it's a plywood box with solid wood
corners and an open wood frame for
a top, see drawing at left_
SIZE. The first step is to determine
the size of the cabinet. It's designed
to fit flush with the metal housing on
the table saw. So just measure the
width and depth of the housing and
size the cabinet accordingly.
Another thing to consider is the
height of the cabinet. The height of
the cabinet shown here is 241/2"
(with levelers). T h i s p u t s t h e
working height of my saw at 37.
Note: You may want to modify the
height of the cabinet to provide a
more comfortable working height.

No. 50

WIDTH OF METAL CABINET

ON TABLE S AW

F E AT U R E P R O J E C T

FRONT/BACK. Once the size is

established, the first step is to make
the front and back of the cabinet. As
you can see in Fig. 1, they're both
made up of a plywoodfront/back panel
(A) with a hardwood corner strip (B)
applied to each vertical edge.
TONGUE & GROOVE. These pieces

are assembled with simple tongue

and groove joints. This requires cutting a tongue on two edges of the
front and back panels, see detail in
Fig. 1. To accept these tongues, you'll
also need to cut a centered groove in
the edge of each corner strip.
There's also an off-center groove in
the face of the strip for a tongue
that's cut later on the sides. But it's
best to cut this groove after the
tongue is made on the sides. Note:
We've included an article explaining
how to cut tongue and groove joints
beginning on page 24.
DUST PORT. Before working on
the sides, I cut a large hole in the
back, see Fig. 1. This hole is sized to
accept a 4"-dia. metal pipe that's part
of the dust collection system.
SIDES. N o w you're ready to add

the two sides. One thing to note here

is the left side (C) is shorter than the
right side (D), see Fig. 2. When the
cabinet is assembled later, the short

side helps to form an opening at the

bottom of the cabinet that provides
access to the caster system.
Like the front and back panels,
there's a tongue on the two vertical
edges of each side. Once the tongue
is made, you can cut the off-center
groove in the corner strip to fit it.
BOTTOM. The next step is to add
a plywood bottom (E), see Fig. 2.
Here again, there's a tongue on two
edges of this piece, see Figs. 2a and
2b. Only this time, they fit into a dado
cut in each side piece.
LOWER RAIL. Before assembling
the cabinet, I added a hardwood
lower rail (F), see drawing on page
16. Besides adding rigidity to the
cabinet, it helps create the opening
for the casters. The rail fits into the
grooves in the corner strips. This
requires cutting a short (stub) tenon
on both ends of the rail, see detail 'b.'
ASSEMBLY. N o w it's just a matter

of gluing and clamping the cabinet

together. To strengthen the lower
rail, I installed two screws in each
end. Also, gluing a pair of hardwood
cleats (G) to the sides of the cabinet
will provide a way to secure the top.
TOP. T h e t o p i s n o t h i n g m o r e

than an open wood frame that allows

dust and chips to fall inside the cab-

4"-PIA.
METAL
PIPE

CUT HOLE
TO FIT
PIPE

23"

NOTE: PIPE

SACK
PANEL
0

IS PART OF
DUST
COLLECTION
SYSTEM

_14"

CORNER
STRIP
0-

0
FRONT PANEL
(14

hq
-

CORNER
STRIP
(11/2" x 2 3 " 3

i t . I t consists of 3
wood stiles (H) and rails (I) that are
sized so the frame fits flush with the
outside of the cabinet.
The frame pieces are assembled
with stub tenon and groove joints.
This requires cutting a groove in the
inside edge of the rails only and a
short (stub) tenon on both ends of
each stile, see detail 'c' on page 16.
After gluing up the top, don't
attach it just yet. This will make it
easier to install the dust collection
system added next.

LEFT
SIDE

OUST
BIN

WOOP
STRIPS
GUI PE
E3IN

GUIDE
STRIP
SIDE

BOTTOM 7 ,

FACE FRAME

LOWER
RAIL
CORNER
STRIP

A You don't need a dust collection system to p i c k up chips

and dust. A bin that slides into an opening in the cabinet provides a
simple alternative. Just make a face frame for the front of the cabinet
and glue wood strips to the bottom to guide the bin in and out.

LOWER RAIL
( 3 " x191/4"
.6

No. 50

N O T E : SIN IS
CONSTRUCTED
LIKE THE DRAWERS
OF STORAGE CABINETS

ShopN otes

17

F E AT U R E P R

P u t Collection Syotem

A An angled trough
covered with a thin
sheet of metal
directs chips out the
opening in back of
the cabinet and into
a dust collector

With the outside of the cabinet complete, you can turn

your attention to the dust
collection system inside.
It houses a large, V-shaped
trough that's covered with
a thin sheet of metal, see
photo at left and Fig. 3. This
creates a smooth, angled
surface that directs chips
and dust down to the bottom
of the trough and into a dust collector.
BAFFLES. The angled sides of the
trough are formed by two plywood
baffles (j), see Fig. 4. Each baffle is
held in place by a pair of hardwood
support strips (K) attached to the
front and back of the cabinet.
The important thing is the location of the support strips. The goal is
to position the strips so the top of
each baffle is flush with the edge of
the hole in back of the cabinet, see
Fig. 4a. This will create a smooth
transition from the baffles to the hole
when the metal covering is added.
Once you've established the location of the support strips, they're fastened to the front and back of the
cabinet with glue and screws. Then

SUPPORT
STRIP ' L Y

NOTE;

MAKE DUST
TROUGH
FROM
4 " x 24"
METAL PIPE

4 " HOSE
CLAMP

9 0 " ELSOW

HOSE TO DUST
COLLECTOR

simply glue and screw the baffles to

the support strips, see Fig. 4a.
METAL COVERING. A t this point,

there's still an opening at the bottom

of the trough between the baffles.
That's where the metal covering
comes in. It bridges the opening and
forms a smooth, U-shaped surface

BAFFLE

E N D VIEW
CLEAT

2
RAFFLE
HOLE
FOR
- PIPE

SUPPORT
STRIP

SUPPORT
STRIP

-TH
HARDWOOD)

HOLE
FOR
PIPE

CASINET SACK

1
18

4 " HOSE
CLAMP

SO"
ELSOW

(11" x 183/4" - 3

10/4"

BAFFLE

ShopNotes

across the lower part of the baffles.

METAL PIPE. This metal covering
is actually just a piece of 4"-dia. metal
pipe. (I picked up a 24"-long piece of
snap-together pipe at a home center.)
This type of pipe is crimped at one
end. To create a hook-up for the dust
collector, a short length of the pipe
near the crimped end forms a "neck"
that sticks out the back of the cabinet. The remaining part of the pipe
is spread apart like a baked potato to
create two flaps that will lie fiat on
the baffles, see photo on page 19.
TRIM PIPE. B u t first, you may
need to trim the pipe to length. The
final length of the pipe depends on
the depth of the cabinet. The best
way I found to determine this length
is to test fit the pipe in the cabinet.
It's tempting t o snap the pipe
together to do this. There's only one
problem. When it's time to cut the
flaps, it would be a pain to pull the pipe
apart. The solution is to roll the pipe
into a cylinder and tape it together.
Now slide the pipe through the
hole until it contacts the front of the
cabinet, see Step 1 on next page.
With the pipe in this position, measure the distance from the back of
the cabinet to the "rib" near the

No. 50

crimped end. This is the amount you

want to remove. Just be sure to
remove the pipe and trim the end
that's not crimped.
lAY OUT FLAPS. The next step is
to lay out the cut lines on the pipe for
the two flaps. Start by slipping the
pipe all the way back into the cabinet
(with the seam facing up). Then draw
a line about a third of the way around
both sides of the pipe, see Step 2.
CUT FLAPS. After removing the
pipe again, a pair of tin snips makes
quick work of cutting the flaps, see
Step 3. Be careful though, the edges
are sharp. Once the flaps are cut, it's
a good idea to trim off the locking

tabs along the long edges of the pipe.

This will create a smooth transition
from the metal covering to the baffles and will prevent slivers of wood
and dust from catching on the edges.
INSTALL COVERING. N o w that the

pipe is cut, you can snap the locking

tabs on the crimped end together and
install the metal covering. To do this,
slip the crimped end of the pipe into
the hole from the inside of the cabinet
and spread out the flaps on the baffles.
The flaps will have a tendency to
curl up, so getting them to lie flat is a
challenge. A little help from a friend
will save a lot of frustration when it
comes to pressing the flaps down

flat on the baffles. To avoid any ripples in the edge, I nailed the flaps
about 1" apart, working from one
end to the other.
After nailing the second flap in
place, I screwed the neck of the pipe
to the cabinet. Also, applying a bead
of silicone wherever the metal covering meets the cabinet will prevent
dust from escaping.
DUST HOOK-UP. All that's left is to
install the fittings used to hook up
the hose from the dust collector. I
tightened a 90
with a hose clamp, see Figs. 3 and 3a.
This way, the hose will run along the
back of the table saw cabinets.

FIRST: SLIDE
PIPE INTO
CABINET
(SEAM UP)

THIRD: REMOVE PIPE

AND TRIM EXCESS
OFF THIS END
EXCESS
r LENGTH

MASKING
TAPE

RIB
SECOND:
MEASURE THIS
DISTANCE
RIB

SECOND: DRAW
LINEAROUND BOTH
SIDES OF PIPE
WITH PERMANENT
MARKER

DRAW LINES A
THIRD OF THE WAY
AROUND PIPE

FIRST: SLIDE
PIPETHROUGH
HOLE UNTIL IT
CONTACTSFRONT
OFCABINET

11!'

-A To determine the length of the pipe, slide it into the

_IL cabinet. Then after measuring from the back of the
cabinet to the rib, remove the pipe and trim the excess.
SECOND: TRIM
LOCKING TABS
OFF EDGE
OFFLAPS

2 Now
the pipe
withside.
the seam
and
drawreinstall
a line around
each
Eachfacing
mark up
should
extend about a third of the way around the pipe.
FIRST: NAIL FLAPS
TOBAFFLE

FIRST: CUT ALONG

LAYOUT LINES
TOCREATE
FLAPS

SECOND: APPLY
SILICONE TO ALL
JOINTS BETWEEN
METALCOVERING
AND CABINET

NOTE: DON'T CUT INTO

BOTTOM THIRD OF PIPE

2 Using a pair of tin snips, cut along the layout

lines to create a flap on each side of the pipe.
After trimming the locking tab off each flap, snap the
No. 50

#4 x 1/2" Rh

crimped end of the ppe together Then just fit the

pipe into the hole from the inside of the cabinet and
nail the flaps down flat on the baffles.

ShopNotes

19

BEFORE

AFTER
A. It's easy to make
the metal covering
for the dust trough.
Start with a 4"-dia.
metal pipe (top) and
then cut two flaps as
in the lower photo,

SHOP P R O J E C T

Storage Cabineto
ENP
CAE3INET

NOTE:
BEFORE JOINING
CABINETS,
ROUTYlo"
CHAMFER ON
TOP EDGES ANL)
CORNERS

#8 x

Eh WOODSCREWS

TABLE
SAW
CABINET

FRONT/BACK APRON
(3" x 551/4")
I3EVEL UPPER CORNERS
OF FRONT/BACK APRONS
N O T E : APRONS ARE MADE
FROM 3/4-THICK HARDWOOD
LEVELER

SIPE APRON
(3" x 2 0

At this point, the table saw

cabinet is almost complete. (It still
needs a set of casters.) But first, to
provide storage for tools and accessories, I built two more units: a
middle cabinet and an end cabinet,
see drawing above.
These cabinets are similar to the
table saw cabinet. But there are a
couple of differences worth noting.

First of all, there s a face frame on

the front of each cabinet that forms
two drawer openings. P l u s , the
upper part of each cabinet is completely enclosed. This creates a
handy storage area on top of the cabinets once they're fastened together.
Just one more note. The end cabinet houses the second half of the
caster system. To provide clearance

CABINET BACK

FACE FRAME

FACE FRAME

(MAKE TWO)

(MIDDLE CABINET)

(END CABINET)

NARROW RAIL
(1" ir/2")

for the casters, the bottom of this cabinet sits higher than the middle one.
CABINET SIZE. The first step is to
determine the overall size o f the
cabinets. They're identical in height
and depth to the cabinet that holds
the table saw. But these cabinets are
a little wider.
The width of the cabinets depends
on the length of the router table
extension. (This is shown on page
8.) Just measure the distance from
the end of the table extension to the
metal saw cabinet. Then subtract 1"
to allow the extension to overhang
the end cabinet. This is the combined
width of both cabinets. The width of
each cabinet is half that distance.

CONSTRUCTION

(1)
WIDE RAIL
(73/4" x
7

CORNER
STRIP
0
")

CORNER
STRIP

E3OTTOM RAIL
(4 x171/2")

1i 4 ) n
r

N O T E : CORNER STRIPS A N D RAILS ARE 3

HARDWOOD; SACK PANELS ARE 3/4" PLYWOOD

20

ShopNotes

Since these cabinets are similar to

the one that holds the table saw, construction goes pretty quickly.
CABINET BACKS. Take the back of

each cabinet for instance. As before,

it's made up of a 3
panel (L) and two hardwood corner
strips (M), see Fig. 5. Here again, 110
these pieces are assembled with
tongue and groove joints, refer to the
detail in Fig. 1 on page 17.

No. 50

SHOP P R O J E C T

FACE FRAMES. The face frames

that form the fronts of the cabinets
start out just like the back with
two hardwood corner strips (M), see
Fig. 5. The only difference is they're
connected by hardwood rails (N, 0,
and P) instead of a plywood panel.
These rails form the drawer openings. To hold a pair of deep drawers,
I made two identical openings in the
middle cabinet. And for larger items,
I made an even taller opening in the
face frame f o r the end cabinet.
There's also a small opening on top
of this cabinet for a shallow drawer.
The face frames are assembled
with stub tenon and groove joints,
see detail in Fig. 5. This requires cutting a stub (short) tenon on both
ends of each rail and a groove in the
edge of the corner strips.
SIDES. At this point, you're ready
to add the sides. Three of the sides
(0) are identical (the two sides on
the middle cabinet and the left side
of the end cabinet), see Fig. 6. But
once again, to form the opening that
provides access to the casters, the
right side (R) of the end cabinet is
shorter, and a hardwood lower rail
(S) spans the bottom.
As before, the sides and corner
strips are assembled with tongue and
groove joints. Once again, I used a
tongue and dado joint to fit a plywood

MIDDLE
CABINET

RIGHT SIDE
(1914" x16")
15/2"

(g)
SIDE

BOTTOM
(18

NOTE:

LOWER RAIL IS
3
ALL OTHER PIECES
ARE 3
1

bottom (T) into the sides, see Figs. 6a

and 6b. Note: To provide clearance
for the casters, don't forget to locate
the dadoes in the sides of the end
cabinet closer to the top edge.
ADD THE TOPS. After gluing up
each cabinet, you can turn your
attention to the tops. As before, each
top starts out as a solid wood frame
made up of two stiles (U) and rails
(V), see Fig. 7. And these frame
pieces are held together with stub
tenon and groove joints. But this
STILE
( 3 " x14'3/4")

( 1 4 1 / 2 " x143/4")

0 -

RAIL

N O T E : TOP PANEL
IS 3/4" PLYWOOD; ALL
OTHER FARTS ARE
3/4-THICK HARDWOOD

CLEAT
# 8 xl1/4" Eh
WOODSCREW

No. 50

(3" x191/4")
0

(3" x 20")

LOWER
RAIL

(1914" x 23'')

TOP PANEL
a .

END
CAI3INET

time, you'll need to cut a groove in

each frame piece. These grooves
accept tongues that are cut on all four
edges of a plywood top panel (W).
ROUTCHAMFERS. After gluing up
the tops, I routed a 1
around the top edges of each frame as
well as the four corners of each cabinet The chamfers create a "shadow
line" when the cabinets are joined
together. 'This way, if the cabinets don't
match perfectly (mine didn't), the
shadow lines make it less noticeable.
JOIN CABINKIN. To join the three
cabinets together, set them side by
side and drive screws from inside the
middle cabinet into the end cabinets,
see drawing on page 20. Then, after
gluing a cleat (X) to the side of each
cabinet, the tops are screwed in place.
APRON. Next, to add rigidity to the
base of the cabinets, I "wrapped" a
wide, hardwood apron around them,
see drawing on page 20. After routing
a chamfer on the top edge of the side
(Y) and front/back apron ('Z) pieces,
they're screwed to the cabinets from
the inside, see detail 'a.' I also beveled
all four corners to match the chamfers, see detail 'b. A hand plane
makes quick work of this.
LEVELERS. Now all that's left is to
mount a set of four heavy-duty levelers to the cabinet, see detail 'a.'
2

'

Caster System

KEEPER BLOCK
(13/4"x 5")

As you'd expect, the casters on the

cabinets make i t easy to roll the
workstation around. But they're only
one part of a caster system. To create
a solid, stable worksurface, this
system lets you lower the cabinets
offthe casters and onto the levelers.

3
53/4"

- Y2

HOLE

KEEPER
BLOCK
DETAIL

CASTER ASSEMBLIES. T o m a k e

this work, there are two separate

caster assemblies one inside each
end of the workstation, see Fig. 8.
The casters in each assembly are
mounted to a thick block that pivots
up and down. This caster block is
tilted at an angle when the workstation is resting on the levelers, see
Fig. 8a. In this position, the casters
just "touch" the floor which prevents
the workstation from moving.
To engage the casters, you simply
swing a wood lever arm out of the
cabinet, step down on it, and slide it
under a keeper block. This lifts the
workstation o ff the levelers (and
onto the casters) so you can roll it
around, see Fig. 8b.

Hardware
(16) #8 x 3/4" Fh
Woodscrews
( 1 6 ) # a x 1" Fh
Woodscrews
(172) # 5 x 1
Woodscrews
(4)Aa x
Woodscrews
(32) #6 x
Woodscrews
(16) #14 x 5
Sheet Metal Screws
(1) # 4 x
Woodoctvw
( 4 ) Leg Levelers
( 4 ) 3" Casters
(4) 5
( 4 Pr.) l a " Prawer
Slides

CASTER BLOCKS. I b e g a n b y

making two 1
caster blocks ( A A ) , see Fig. 9 .
They're cut to length to fit snug (not
tight) inside the cabinets so the

(4) I
(4) 1

(5) 1/2"Washers

(2)
w/Nylon Inserts
(1) 4" x 24" Pipe
(1) 90' Metal Ell2OW
(1) 4 " Hose Clamp
(36) 5
Wire Nails

WASHER

3/

1/
LAG SCREW

NOTE:
KEEPER SLOCK
IS M A D E FROM
11/2"-THICK HARDWOOD

CASTER
ASSEMBLY

KEEPER
SLOCK

E3LOCK

SLIDE LEVER A R M
UNDER KEEPER
SLOCK TO LOCK
IT IN PLACE

, a

N O T E ; CASTERS RAISED

blocks can pivot without binding.

To create a pivot point, the caster
blocks are attached to the cabinet
with a single lag screw at each end.
The lag screw passes through a shank
hole in the cabinet and into a pilot hole
in the end of the block, see Fig. 8.
LEVER
ARM

1/2" x 3 " HEX

HEAD
BOLT

1/2"
WASHER

( - STOP
(1/2" x 13/4"
DOWEL)

DRILL
1/2" HOLE,
3/4" DEEP

SIDE VIEW

LEVER ARM
(3" x13" -

HARDWOOD)

7
PILOT
HOLE

q3_13)

FINGER PULL
1/2" WASHER

1/2

CASTER BLOCK

STOP

( 6 " x l 354" 11/2"-THICK HARDWOOD)

LEVER
ARM

1
NUT

TOP VIEW

22

,17

416)

0
)
0

N O T E ; CASTERS E N G A G E D

LEVER ARM. After drilling the

holes, I added the lever arm (BB)
that raises and lowers the caster
assembly, see Fig. 9. It's a piece of
3
notch cut in one end for a finger pull.
The lever arm is held in place with
a bolt that passes through a hole in
the arm and caster block, see Fig. 9.
Threading a lock nut onto the bolt so
it's just snug secures the arm yet still
allows it to swing back and forth.
srop. To prevent the arm from
swinging too far into the cabinet where
it's hard to reach, I added a stop. It's
a short dowel that's glued into a hole
in the caster block, see Fig. 9.
KEEPER BLOCK Before installing
the caster assembly, I added a hardwood keeper block (CC) to lock the
lever arm in the "down" position,
see Figs. 8 and 8b. To provide clearance for the caster assembly, it's
rabbeted on one edge and then
screwed to the cabinet.
INSTALL CASTERS. N o w you can

CASTER SLOCK

OUTLINE OF
MOUNTING PLATE
N CASTER

CASTER
E3LOCK

CASTER
SLOCK

1
CASTER

#14 x
SHEET METAL
SCREW

ShopNotes

slip the caster assemblies inside the

cabinet and secure them with lag
screws. To prevent binding, just
"snug" the screws against the cabinet.

No. 50

 Ora were

CI

FRONT VIEW

All that's left to complete the cabinets is to add a set of four drawers.
To provide easy access to tools
and supplies, each drawer is mounted
on a metal slide, see Fig. 10. The
drawer slides I used required a 1
clearance on each side. So I built 16"wide drawers (1" less than the width
of the opening). As for length, they
match the length of the slides (18
Another consideration is the height
of the drawer. I made the shallow
drawer 3" tall. And to simplify construction, all three deep drawers are
the same height (71/2"). Note: The
drawer that fits in the largest opening
(the lower opening in the end cabinet) will get a larger false front.

SPACER
(11/2" X183/4" 3/4-THICK
HARDWOOD)

CD

# 8 xl1/4" Fh
WOODSCREW

NOTE:
CENTER PULL
ON FALSE FRONT

FALSE
FRONT

18" METAL
DRAWER SLIDE

DRAWER CONSTRUCTION. T h e

drawer front/back (DD, FF) pieces

andsides (EE, GG) are made of 1/2
thick hardwood, see Fig. 11. After cutting the pieces to size, the fronts and
backs are rabbeted at each end to
form a tongue, see Fig. 11b, This
tongue fits into a dado in each side.
Before gluing up the drawers,
you'll need to cut a groove in each
piece to accept a 1
(111-1), see Fig. 11a. It's also a good
idea to drill countersunk shank holes
in the drawer fronts now to make it
easy to add the false fronts later.

N O T E : POSITION DOTTOM
EDGE OF EACH SPACER
FLUSH WITH TOP OF RAIL

N O T E : INSTALL
DRAWER SLIDES IN EACH
DRAWER OPENING (FOR CLARITY,
ONLY ONE DRAWER AND ONE
PAIR OF SLIDES ARE SHOWN)

51/2"
DRAWER
111

11

FRONT/SACK
(3" x151/2")
1

SHALLOW
DRAWER

FALSE FRON
(2

(MAKE ONE)

ENP CAE3EN ET
FALSE FRO NT

DRAWER SLIDES. A t this point,

you're ready to install the drawer

slides. The slides are designed to be
separated into two parts. One part is
attached to the drawer side. The
other is mounted to a hardwood
spacer (II) that's screwed to the cabinet sides, see Fig. 10a. The spacers
"build out" the side of the cabinet so
it's flush with the face frame.

FRONT/SACK

DEEP C D
DRAWER
(MAKE THREE) ,

EPGING
(APPR.18
UN. FEET)

SIDE
(7/2" x 18")

CD

1---(<10
MIPPLE CASH' ET
FALSE FRO?'.

FALSE FRONTS. A l l that's left to

complete the drawers is to add the

false fronts (Jl, KK, 11). These are
pieces of P plywood trimmed with
1/2"-thick hardwood edging (MM).
The goal is to size the false fronts so
that once the edging is glued on, they

(8" x 1 6

NOTE:
ALL PARTS
ARE 1/2"-THICK
HARDWOOD
EXCEPT FOR
1/

DorromAND

overlap the drawer opening a 1/4" all

the way around, see Fig. 11a. After
screwing the false fronts in place, I
added a pull to each drawer. 6

No. 50

(9

(7

FRONT

3/4" PLYWOOD
FALSE FRONTS

ShopNotes

23

TECHNIQUE

Tongue & Groove

Joining Plywood To Solid Wood

Off-center
groove
W
cabinets featured on page 16,
Centered
groove
Here's a simple I assembled them with tongue and
way to assemble groove joints. The reason is simple. Centered -----,
the Plywood sides It provided a quick way to create a tongue A
set of strong, sturdy cabinets.
of a cabinet
If you look at the photo on the
use a solid wood right, it's easy to see how the tongue
corner and a and groove joints in these cabinets fit
tongue and together. The tongue is cut on the
Solid
groove joint. edge of a plywood panel, and the
wood
mating groove is cut in a solid wood
corner
Plywood
Plywood
corner strip.
panel
strip
panel
STRENGTH. What makes a tongue
and groove joint so strong? First of of the workpiece, see Fig. la. By lions the edge of the scrap along the
all, it adds mechanical strength to the changing the size of the bearing (or shoulder of the tongue so you can
joint. And second, it increases the bit), you can can vary the length of score an accurate line.
amount of glue surface between the the tongue. (In most cases, I cut a
CENTEREDGROOVES
plywood and the solid wood corner. 1/4-long tongue.)
TONGUE THICKNESS. A n o t h e r
Once the tongue is complete, the
Once the pieces are assembled, the
thing
to
consider
is
the
thickness
of
next step is to cut the grooves in the
resulting joint is extremely strong.
SOLID WOOD. Okay, but why the tongue. There's nothing critical solid wood corner strip. l i
bother using a piece of solid wood to about the exact thickness. (Later, the fits into the edge of the corner strip,
connect the two plywood panels? groove will be cut to fit). A good rule you'll want to cut a centered groove.
Now you'd expect this would
Why not just cut a tongue in one of thumb is to adjust the depth of cut
so the tongue is about one third the make the surfaces of the corner strip
panel and a groove in the other?
One reason is the solid wood thickness of the plywood.
and the plywood perfectly flush if
both pieces are identical in thickness.
corner covers the exposed edges of
ROUT TONGUE. N o w you're ready
the plywood. In addition to hiding to rout the tongue. Be sure the work- So it's tempting to plane the corner
the internal plies of the plywood, piece is clamped securely. Then turn strip to match the thickness of the
it also adds rigidity to the corners the router on and make a pass from plywood. But there's a problem.
of the cabinets.
Sometimes the thickness of plyleft to right, see Fig. 1. To complete
the tongue, flip the workpiece over wood will vary from one part of the
MAKINGTHETONGUE
sheet to another. Even a small discrepand make a second pass.
I usually start by making the tongue.
A sharp rabbet bit generally pro- ancy will expose part of the plywood
It's easier for me to "tweak" the width duces a nice, clean cut if you're edge. So I start with corner strips that
of the groove to fit the tongue than routing with the grain. But if you're are 1
This means the face of the corner
the other way around. Typically, the making a cross-grain cut, the bit has
A To eliminate tongue is centered on the thickness a tendency to tear out the wood strip will sit just a bit "proud" of the
tearout, use a of the plywood panel by cutting two fibers. This produces a "fuzzy" cut plywood on both sides, see inset photo.
rabbeted block rabbets one on each face.
It's only about 1/44
along the shoulder of the rabbet.
SCORING CUT. One thing that like splitting hairs. But when it's time
There are a number of ways to cut
as a guide and
score the shoulder these rabbets. Since the panels on helps produce a clean cut is to score to sand the corner strip flush, i t
of the tongue with these cabinets are fairly large, I the shoulder of the rabbet with a makes things considerably easier.
To cut the grooves, I use a combinaa sharp knife. found it easiest to clamp them to the knife before routing the tongue. To
bench and use a hand-held router make this cut accurately, I use a tion blade in the table saw. As usual, it's
with a rabbet bit, see Fig. 1.
simple guide. It's just a scrap piece a good idea to make test cuts on a scrap
The router is guided by a bearing that's routed w i t h a n identical piece. Just be sure they're the same
on the bit that rides against the edge rabbet, see margin. The rabbet posi- thickness as the "real" workplece.
24

ShopNotes

No. 50

TECHNIQUE
BIADE HEIGHT. The first step is
A k t o adjust the height of the blade. To
allow room for excess glue, I set the
blade to cut a groove that's about 1
deeper than the length of the tongue.
POSITION FENCE Now it's just a
matter of positioning the rip fence to
locate the groove. To cut a groove
that's centered exactly on the edge, I
use a simple trick.
Start b y roughly centering the
edge of the scrap piece on the blade
and then locking the fence, see Fig.
2a. The idea here is to make two
passes. The first pass is made with
one face against the fence, see Figs.
2 and 2a. Then the scrap piece is
flipped end for end so the opposite
face is against the fence, see Fig. 2b.
Note: I use a featherboard to hold
the scrap against the fence.
TEST FIT Although this produces
a centered groove, i t may not be
wide enough to accept the tongue.
So you may need to move the fence a
hair closer to the blade and make two
more passes. Continue like this until
1110 the tongue slips into the groove with
a friction fit. Then cut the grooves in
the actual workpieces.

OFF-CENTERGROOVES
Another type of tongue and groove
joint is one with an off-center groove.
As before, the tongue is centered on
the plywood. B u t this time the
groove is cut in the face of the corner
strip on the adjoining plywood panel.
Here again, I make multiple passes

a.
W

111111111.

4 * *14 *

SIT
o

.411

ROUT RASSET IN EDGE,

00 ;1
_ W ASTE T H E N FLIP WORKPIEGE AND
ROUT SECOND RASSET

on the table saw. But this time, I make

each cut with the same edge of the
corner strip against the fence.
As before, the goal is to locate the
groove so the corner strip sticks up
1
wood. To accomplish that, I make
cuts from the inside out. I know, it
sounds confusing. But it has to do
with sneaking up on the cut.
Let me explain. You could measure
the distance between the tongue and
the outside face of the plywood and
try t o duplicate t h i s distance
between the fence and the blade.
But even if you get the right measurement and make the cut, you
can't test the fit of the tongue in the
groove until the rest of the waste is
removed. And that requires moving
the fence.
TEST CUTS. An easy way to get
around this is to make test cuts in a
scrap piece. To do this, start by
measuring the distance from the
outside face of the plywood to the
opposite side of the tongue. Then
set the fence to cut about 1

ther in from the edge than needed,

see Fig. 3a.
Why not set the fence right on
the money? Because a l l you're
really trying to do is remove some
of the waste. This will provide
clearance for the tongue as you
sneak up on the location for the
outer side of the groove.
To do this, keep nudging the fence
closer to the blade until the tongue
fits in the groove and the scrap piece
forms a tiny lip above the plywood,
see Fig. 3b. At this point, make a
single pass on all the pieces that
require off-center grooves. In addition, you'll want to make this same
cut in a second scrap piece.
The idea o f this second scrap
piece is to use it to determine the
location o f the inner side o f the
groove, see Fig. 3c. This is just a
matter of nudging the fence away
from the blade, making a pass, and
checking the fit of the tongue in the
groove. Once the groove in the scrap
piece fits, simply complete t h e
grooves in the actual workpieces.d

2
F I R S T: CUT EXTRA-WIDE
F
I
R
S
T
GROOVE FOR TONGUE
S
C
R
A
P
PIECE
SO EDGE OF CORNER
STRIP IS PROUD OF PLYWOOD,
SEE DETAILS 'a' A N D '12'

SCRAP PIECE
RIP
FENCE

WASTE

NOTE:

:0a .
0
RIP

SLADE
IS OFFCENTER

0 FENCE1
0
0
0
0
0

S E C O N D : USE SECOND
SCRAP PIECE TO FIT GROOVE
TO TONGUE, SEE DETAIL

FEATHERSOARD

FLIP
SCRAP
PIECE
AND
MAKE
SECOND
PASS

EXTRA-WIDE

REMOVE WASTE
WITH MULTIPLE
PASSES

CUT GROOVE
TO FIT TONGUE

GROOVE

Yee

1 1 1

orL

PROUD

O l d

No. 50

ShopNotes

25

SCRAP PIECE

SHOP P R O J E C T

Fold Up

Outfeed
Table
It only takes a minute to hook
this ouU
table saw. Plus it folds flat
for compact storage.

' this outfeed table, but I can't.

Actually, the idea came about when I
was poking around in Ted's shop.
(Ted is our creative director.)
To provide support when ripping
long boards, he built an outfeed table
to use with the T-square rip fence on
his table saw. The table simply hooks
over a couple of wood strips on the
back of the saw.
There are a couple of things I like
about his table. First of all, it's easy to
reposition the table by sliding it along
the wood strips. Plus, it only takes a
minute to attach it to the saw (or
remove it altogether).

Well, to make a long story short, I

decided to build a similar outfeed
table for the workstation featured in
this issue, see photo above.
QUICK SETUP. Like the original
version, this outfeed table attaches
to the saw quickly and easily. The
table hooks over a wood rail that's
mounted to the metal support rail on
back of the table saw, see upper inset
photo. (The metal rail is part of the
rip fence system.) And the ends of
the ladder-like support for the table
fit over another wood rail attached
near the bottom of the cabinets, see
lower inset photo.
There's a big advantage to this
type of support system. Unlike an
outfeed table that stands on the floor,
the rails automatically level the table
each time you set it up. So there's no
need to worry about aligning it with
the cast iron surface of the table saw.
REPOSITIONING T A B L E . T h e

rails also provide a quick way of

repositioning the table to accommodate workpieces of different widths.
Depending on the type o f blade
guard and splitter on your table saw,
there are two ways to go about this.
If this assembly extends around
the back edge of the saw, you'll need
A Compact Storage, The outfeed table and ladder-like to cut an opening in the table as shown
supports are hinged together So the entire assembly in the photo on page 27. In this case,
simply lift the table off the rails and
folds up like an accordion for compact storage.

26

ShopNotes

reposition it in another location.

But if the back edge of the saw is
unobstructed (as with an overhead
blade guard), it's just a matter of
sliding the table along the rails.
COMPACT STORAGE. Regardless

of the method used to reposition the e

table, you may want to remove it
when it's not in use. Here's one place
where I made an improvement on
Ted's table. Since the shape of the
angled support would make it awkward to store, it's designed to fold up
flat, see photo at left.

TABLE
I began by making the table that
"catches" the workpiece as it slides
off the table saw. There's nothing
critical about the size of the table.
Just be sure it's large enough to provide adequate support, yet not so big
that it's unwieldy to handle. (I made
the table 18" wide and 24" long.)
TOP. The first step is to make the
top (A) of the table, see upper drawing
on page 27. I decided to use mediumdensity fiberboard (MDF) for the
top. It's a flat, stable material that
resists warping. Plus it's fairly inexpensive. (I picked up a quarter-sheet
of 1/
What's the point of using 1/2" M D F W
instead of 3
to do with the amount of clearance
o

50

monomm

PLASTIC
LAMINATE
(18" x 2 4 " )

under the table. When the blade on

0
TOP
(161/2x 2 2

All
Wswings up quite close to the table.
The extra 1/2" of space provides the
clearance needed t o prevent the
motor from hitting the table.
EDGING. After cutting the top to
size, I "wrapped" i t with strips of
hardwood edging (B). Besides covering the exposed edges, the strips
add rigidity to the table. They're
simply mitered to length and glued
around the top like a picture frame.

1/2" MOP)

STEP 1
GLUE EDGING
TO TOP A N P APPLY
PLASTIC LAMINATE

3
HARDWOOD)

FILLER STRIP
(1
3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

STEP 2

PLASTIC LAMINATE. To create a

FLIP TA5LE UPSIDE

DOWN A N P GLUE ON
MOUNTING PLATE A N D FILLER STRIP

smooth, durable surface, the top

(and edging) are covered with plastic
laminate. I glued on an oversize
piece of laminate and then trimmed
the edges with a hand-held router
and flush trim bit.
At this point, the top of the table is
basically complete. But the bottom
still needs some work.

glue a narrow filler strip

(D) to the top. The purpose of the
filler strip is to "beef up" the end of
the table that hooks over the wood
rail on the saw.

RAILS
Now it's time to add the two long
rails that hold up the table and the
folding support, see Fig. 1.
UPPER RAIL The upper rail (E)
is a strip of 3
the same length as the metal rail on
the saw. To provide clearance for the
motor when tilting the blade, you'll

MOUNTING PLATE. To p r o v i d e a

way to attach the angled support, I

added a mounting Plate (C), see
Step 2 in drawing above. It's just a
O

that's glued to the table.

FILLER STRIP. In addition to the
mounting plate, you'll also need to

1111

'

'

0
EDGING
(1

G R O O V E

OPENING FOR SLADE - - GUARD A N D

SPLITTER

E
1

O
1

pm
1

UPPER
RAIL
01/2" 0 0 " -

HARDWOOD)

LOWER RAIL
01/2" x 5e1/2" x 3
HARDWOOD)
3/3z" S H A N K
HOLE
P
COUNTERDORE,
3

No. 50

ShopNotes

MOUNTING
PLATE
- - ( 1 ) xle1/2"3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

need to notch the bottom edge of

this rail. (Just cut it in the same location as the notch in the metal rail.)
Then simply screw the rail in place.
LOWER RAIL The lower rail (F)
is cut to length to span the
width o f t h e workstation.
After drilling counterbored
shank holes in this rail, it's fastened to the cabinets with lag
screws, see Fig. lb.
CUTGROOVE. Now it's just
a matter of cutting the groove
in the bottom of the table that
hooks onto the upper rail, see
Fig. la. The important thing
here is the depth of the groove.
It should be deep enough so
the table sits about vie below
the surface of the table saw.
This way, the workpiece won't
catch on the edge of the table.
Another consideration is the width
of the groove. The idea is to make it
wide enough to create a smooth,
sliding fit. To accomplish that, I
mounted a 3
saw and shimmed it to cut a groove
that's slightly wider (about 1
than the thickness of the upper rail.
OPENING. Now you can cut the
opening for the blade guard and
splitter assembly (if it's needed).
This is just a matter of drilling clearance holes in the corners of the
desired opening and removing the
waste with a sabre saw.

27

A A large opening
in the end of the
table provides
clearance for the
blade guard and
splitter assembly

SHOP P R O J E C T

Folding Support
2

TAI3LE7

TADLE

,/

P L AT E

,,--- 11/2" x161/2" u p p E R

CONTINUOUS SUPPORT
HINGE

UPPER
SUPPORT

UPPER
RAIL
TAOLF

SAW

11/2"x161/2"

CONTINUOUS
HINGE

CAE3INET

NOTE: FILE

LOWER
SUPPORT

TIPS OF
SCREWS

LOWER
SUPPORT

NYLON
GLIDES

One of the handiest features of this

outfeed table is the angled support
that holds it up. It provides sturdy
support for the table when ripping a
long board. And once you're done, it
folds up so you can store the table
neatly out of the way.
The folding support consists of
two simple wood frames that are
hinged together at an angle, see
Figs. 2 and 2a. An upper support is
hinged to the bottom of the table,
see Fig. 2b. This support is "locked"
in a vertical position by a lower

END VIEW

support that's propped at an angle

against the table saw cabinets.

UPPERSUPPORT
I began by making the uPPersupport.
The overall width of this support
matches the distance between the
edging on the sides of the table. (In
my case, this was 1 6
height, it needs to extend down far
enough so when the lower (angled)
support is attached, there's plenty of
clearance around the motor, see End
View in Fig. 2. (I made it 13" tall)

SIDE
0

RAIL
SIDE
_ - T C E N T E R DADO
ON LENGTH
OF SIDE

3
RAIL
# 8 xl1/2" Fh
_ WOODSCREW

28

r /

RAIL

(23/4 x 1 5
3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

ShopNotes

LOWERSUPPORT
Once the upper support is in place,
you're halfway done. Now you can turn
your attention to the angled lower
support, see Fig. 2.
The lower support is made up of
two narrow legs that are connected
with three rails, like rungs on a
ladder, refer to Fig. 5. In use, the legs
rest on the lower rail (F) that was
attached earlier to the cabinets.
ANGLED NOTCH. To fit the legs
on the rail, there's an angled notch in
the bottom end of each one, see Figs.
4a and 4b. I cut these notches in two
extra-long workpieces. Later, t h i s d i
provides an easy way to lay out t h e l .
angle on the top end of the legs.
When you cut the notches, it will

JOINER?
DETAIL

( r/4"-THICK
/ 4 " x13"HARDWOOD)

The first step is to rip enough 3

thick hardwood stock to width to make
two sides (G) and three rails (H), see
Fig. 3. The top and bottom rails fit in
rabbets cut in both ends of each side.
You'll also need to cut a centered dado
in each side to hold the middle rail.
ASSEMBLY. After completing the
joinery, the sides and rails are simply
glued and screwed together. Then
to allow the upper support to fold
down, I hinged it to the mounting
plate (C) on the table, see Fig. 2b.

50

SHOP P R O J E C T

create two pointed tips that are

a l p r e t t y fragile. So I "knocked off' the
W t i p s to keep them from splintering if
the support gets banged around.
NYLON GLIDES. The next step is
to add a pair of nylon glides, one on
each side of the notch, see margin.
These glides make the legs slide
smoothly on the lower rail.
LAY O U T ANGLE. A f t e r t a c k i n g

the glides in place, you're ready to

lay out the angle on the top end of the
sides. To get accurate results, it's
best to temporarily install the table
and "test fit" one of the legs.
Start by booking one end of the
table over the upper rail and propping up the other end with a clamp,
see Fig. 4. The goal is to make the
surfaces of the outfeed table and
table sawParallel to each other. So you
may need to shim under the clamp.
Now position one o f the legs
against the upper support like it will
be when the table is in use. To do
this, set the notched end of the leg
on the lower rail and clamp the top
1111 end against the upper support, see
Fig. tic. Then simply mark the angle
across the inside face of the leg.
TRIM TO LENGTH. After laying out
the angles on both pieces, you're
ready to trim the legs to final length.
To do this, tilt the miter gauge on the
table saw to match the angle of the
layout line on the legs. Then miter
the legs (I) to length, see Fig. 5.

REMOVE

NOTE:
SHIM
CLAMP TO
LEVEL
TAI3LE

7
0

2.

LEG

LEG
(2" x 2 5 " Reh.
3/4-THICK
HARDWOOD)

LAY OUT
LINE ON

LOWER
RAIL

FACE OF
LEG

RABBET ENDS. To accept a wide

top rail that's added later, you'll also
need to cut a rabbet in the mitered
ends of the legs. There's no need to
adjust the angle of the miter gauge. I
just mounted a dado blade in the
table saw and used the same miter
gauge setup to rabbet the ends.
CUT DADOES. The dado blade
comes in handy for the next step as
well cutting a pair of dadoes in
each leg to accept the other two rails
of the lower support. Only this time,
you'll need to tilt the head of the

miter gauge back to 90'

RAILS. At this point, it's time to
add the three rails that connect the
legs. I ripped two narrow rails (I)
to match the width of the legs. And
a wide top rail (K) fits into the rabbets in the legs. This top rail is
beveled on both edges so i t fits
flush with the legs.
ASSEMBLY. Now it's just a matter
of assembling the lower support
with glue and screws. Here again, I
used a long hinge to connect the two
supports, see Fig. 2a. CI

JOINERY DETAIL

TOP RAH_
(31/2" x153/4"3/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD)

FURNITURE
GLIDE
#.5 xl1/2" Ph
WOODSCREW

FIG.4c

LEG
(2" x CUSTOM
,------ L E N G T H '
HARDWOOD)

No. 50

NARROW
RAIL

ShopNotes

29

A Adding two nylon

furniture glides to
the notched end of
each leg allows the
lower support to
slide smoothly on
the lower rail.

Tool
Ta l k

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

1-Square Rip Fence

I fied with the rip fence on my table
saw. One reason is I can only rip
material up to 25" wide. But
what's even more frustrating
is the fence doesn't always lock
parallel to the saw blade. So I
have to measure the distance from
4. the fence to the front and the back of
the blade every time 1 make a cut.
Finally, I got tired of fiddling with
it, and I decided to replace it with a
more accurate fence that had a
larger rip capacity.
BIESEMEYER. After looking a t
several after-market models, I bought
a T-square fence manufactured by
Biesemeyer, see photo above. This
fence has a 40" rip capacity, but other
A With the fence sizes are also available, see page 31.
unlocked, it simply
RUGGED CONSTRUCTION. One of
lifts off the guide the things 1 like about this fence is its
tube. When you set rugged construction. The core of the
it back in place, fence is made of thick, square steel
it still locks parallel tubing, see drawing below. A plyto the saw blade. wood face covered with plastic laminate is attached to each side of the
tubing. And a beefy chunk of angle
iron is welded to the bottom to form
Plastic
Edging

"f
..
ffibp,
f

q
'44Q
the T-square head of the fence.
To align the fence parallel to the
blade, there's an adjustment screw
in each end of the head. The fence
has to be removed to adjust the
screws, so it's a trial and error
process. But once the screws are set,
the fence stays perfectly aligned.
To provide rigid support for the
head, it rides on a heavy-duty, steel
guide tube. This guide tube is attached
to an angle iron support rail that's
bolted to the front of the table saw (and
table extension). A second rail mounted
to the back of the saw supports the
table extension only. Note: The fence
doesn't lock on this second rail.

Table Extension provides

s u p p o r t when ripping
wide material
N S u p p o r t Rail
holds up back
o f table

LOCKING MECHANISM. B u t w h a t

impresses me the most about this

fence is the locking mechanism. Not
just because the fence doesn't budge
when it's locked. B u t because i t
locks parallel to the blade every time.
Here's how i t works. With the
lock lever up, slide the fence to its
desired position, see detail 'a.' ( A
scale and hairline indicator make
this quick and easy, see inset photo.)
When you push the lever down, a
cam on the end exerts pressure that
draws the head tightly against t h e e
guide tube, see detail 'b.'
PRICE. Okay, so how much does
this fence cost? I paid $269 (about half
of what I paid for my table saw). Even
so, the fence makes such a dramatic
improvement in the overall performance
of the saw, it's worth every penny. CI

a . U n l o c k e d Position
Fence

1-Square
Head

aik
Support

Square metal
tubing creates
rigid Core

Head
squares
fence t o
guide tube

Guide
Tube --,

a i f

S u p p o r t Rail

Locked Position

Laminated Face
creates a slick,
durable surface
Turn screw t o
a d j u s t fence

Guide Tube
supports
T-square head

30

Magnet holds
lever in unlocked
position

Scale arid hairline

indicator provide quick,
accurate a d j u s t m e n t
(see inset photo)

ShopNotes

T-square head draws t i g h t l y

a g a i n s t guide tube

Cam
applies
pressure
against
guide
tube

Dar and
Adjustment
Screw

No. 50

Sources
PRODUCT INFORMAIKON
ShopNotes Project Supplies
is offering some of the hardware
and supplies needed to build the
projects in this issue.
We've also put together a list
of other mail-order sources
that have similar hardware
and supplies.

Table Saw
Workstation Ki- AMagnetic Bases
The featherboard shown on page 4 is
"clamped" to the table saw with two
magnetic bases that you can turn on or
off with the flip of a switch.
The magnetic bases cost 811.95 each.
1bought mine from Enco Manufacturing

The Table Saw Workstation that's featured

onpage6 is a great way to upgrade your table saw
ShopNotes Project Supplies is offering a complete hardware kit to build the table saw cabinets, the router table extension, 'and the outfeed
table. Note: It doesn't include the rip fence or the optional hardware for the electrical
switch. You'll also need to provide the hardwood, sheet material, and plastic laminate.

TABLESAWWORKSTATIONKIT

6850-100

MAIL
ORDER
SOURCES
Tool Crib
800-635-5140
7

A1-SquareRipFence
The T-Square rip fence (page 30) is
available with rip capacities of 28", 40", or
52". If your table saw measures a minimum of 20" from front to back, has a
cast-iron top with a flat front edge at least
1Y4"in height, then the fence canbe adapted
to your saw (See margin for sources.)

ARouter TableExtension

ATableSawCabinets

If you'd like to build the Router Table

Extension (page 8) by itself, we're offering
a separate kit with all the hardware you
need. Note: Vacuum hose isn't included.

ShDpNotes Project Supplies is also offering

a separate kit that includes all the hardware needed to build the three table

All you need to supply is the hardwood,

hardboard, MDF, and plastic laminate.

saw cabinets by themselves. All you

need to supply is the hardwood, plywood,
and hardboard.

ROUTERTABLEEXTENSIONKIT

TABLESAWCABINETSKIT

6850-175 $ 3 9 . C 5

6850-150 $ 1 7 9 . 9 5

101 Woodworking Tips Online

Woodworking Techniques
Project plans you can download
WoodNet Forum
Power Tool Reviews

www.augusthome.com

No. 50

Access information about

your subscription account.
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has been received.
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Let us know if you haven't
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800-835-5084
T

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TO PLACE AN ORDER CALL

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ShopNotes

Phenolic Plates

Woodworker's
Supply
800-645-9292

ON-LINE
CUSTOMER S E RV I C E

WoodNet

Woodhaven
800-344-6657

31

Scenes from the Shop

One of the secrets to getting the most efficient use out of t h e workstation off its levelers and onto a set of casters,
the space in a shop is to make your stationary tools j u s t pull out a wood lever and step down on it, see inset
mobile. Our table saw workstation does just that. To raise photos. Then simply roll the workstation away

At the end of the day, it only takes a few minutes to turn T h e n roll the workstation against the wall. Who knows?
your workshop back into a garage. Just fold up the T h e r e may even be room for the car (Step-by-step plans
out feed table and stow it on top of the storage cabinets, f o r building the table saw workstation begin on page 6.)

Cutting Diagram

Table Saw Cabinets

Mat erials - Table Saw Cabinet s
Caster System

Table Saw Cabinet

A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K

Front /Back Panels (2)

Corner St rips (4)
Lef t Side (1)
Right Side (1)
Bot t om (1)
Lower Rail (1)
Cleat s (2)
St iles (2)
Rails (2)
Baffles (2)
Support St rips (4)

141/4 x 23 - 3/4 Ply.

3/ x 11/ -23 Maple
4
2
19 1/4 x 16 - 3/4 Ply.
19 1/4 x 23 - 3/4 Ply.
153/4 x 18 3/4 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3 - 19 1/ Maple
4
4
3/ x 3/ - 18 3/ Maple
4
4
4
3/ x 3 - 143/ Maple
4
4
3/ x 3 - 16 3/ Maple
4
4
11x 18 3/4 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3/ - 9 3/ Maple
4
4
4

Storage Cabinet
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z

Back Panels (2)

Corner St rips (8 )
Narrow Rail (4)
Bot t om Rail (1)
Wide Rail (1)
Side (3)
Right Side (1)
Lower Rail (1)
Bot t om (2)
St iles (4)
Rails (4)
Top Panel (2)
Cleat s (4)
Side Apron (2)
Front /Back Apron (2)

171/2 x 23 - 3/4 Ply.

x 11/2 -23 Maple
x 1- 171/2 Maple
x 4 - 171/2 Maple
x 73/4 - 171/2 Maple
19 1/4 x 23 - 3/4 Ply.
19 1/4 x 16 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3 - 19 1/ Maple
4
4
18 3/4 x 19 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3 - 143/ Maple
4
4
3/ x 3 - 20 Maple
4
141/2 x 143/4 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 3/ - 18 3/ Maple
4
4
4
3/ x 3 - 20 1/ Maple
4
4
3/ x 3 - 58 1/ Maple
4
4
3/
4
3/
4
3/
4
3/
4

Page 1 of

ShopNotes No. 50

AA
BB
CC

Cast er Blocks (2)

Lever Arms (2)
Keeper Blocks (2)

11/2 x 6 - 18 3/4 Maple

3/ x 3 - 13 Maple
4
11/2 x 13/4 - 5 Maple

Drawers
DD
EE
FF
GG
HH
II
JJ
KK
LL
MM

Front s/Backs (2)

Sides (2)
Front s/Backs (6)
Sides (6)
Bot t oms (4)
Spacers (8 )
False Front (1)
False Front (2)
False Front (1)
Edging

1/
2
1/
2
1/
2
1/
2

x 3 - 151/2 Maple
x 3 - 18 Maple
x 71/2 - 151/2 Maple
x 71/2 - 18 Maple
151/2 x 171/2 - 1/4 Hardboard
3/ x 11/ - 18 3/ Maple
4
2
4
23/4 x 16 1/2 - 3/4 Ply.
8 x 16 1/2 - 3/4 Ply.
9 1/2 x 16 1/2 - 3/4 Ply.
1/ x 3/ - 18 Lin. Feet
2
4

2000 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.

x 4 5 x 5E5 Maple Plywood

x 4 6 x 4E5 Hardl7oard

CD

CD

CD

CD

CD

1/

CD

CD
1/

CD

CD

(56)

CD

CD
CD

0
3/4 x b1/2 - 9 e Maple

3/4 x 61/

00

131)3

\
00

3/4 x 9

(Y)

oz,)

1,1-1

,
1/

CD

CD

ShopNotes
No.
August Home
ShopNotes N
o . 50
50 0 22000
0 0 0 August
Home Publishing.
Publishing. All
All rights
rights reserved.
reserved.