National Geographic Traveller India - July 2016-P2P
National Geographic Traveller India - July 2016-P2P
National Geographic Traveller India - July 2016-P2P
th
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
JULY 2016
Anniversary
issue
CONTENTS
Vol 5 Issue 1
TA S T E O F T R AV E L
78
Sushi and sashimi, Japan
10
88
GUTS AND
GLORY
A Chettinad food
pilgrimage reveals
the dramatic tale of a
community and the truth
behind its spirited cuisine
By Neha Sumitran
96
FROM FOREST
TO TABLE
In the hills of Nagaland,
life, land, and labour
are aligned with
the sourcing and
consumption of food
By Aditya Raghavan
78
UNVARNISHED
TABLES
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
132
104
112
104
12
112
SINGAPORE
FOOD GUIDE
120
UNDER THE
INFLUENCE
132
COLOMBIA
IN A CUP
120
VOICES
4TH
ISSUE 1
ANNIVERSARY
ISSUE
24 Clan Rules
Chettinad
NOSE TO TAIL
COOKING
Japan
EVERYDAY GOURMET
TRADITIONS
26 Crew Cut
N AV I G AT E
Local Flavour
Plus
On The COver
This collage of images
was created by Art
Director Diviya Mehra
to highlight a variety
of elements from the
many food stories in this
anniversary issue.
48 On Foot
54 Bookshelf
56 The Souvenir
58 Power of Place
14
66 History
60 48 Hours
REGULARS
18 Editors Note
20 Notebook
138 Inspire
144 Travel Quiz
70 Family Time
74 My City
30
60
16
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Editors Note |
N I LOU F E R V EN KATRA M A N
CATCH EM YOUNG
daughters first trip with us was when she was
just a few months old. I believe (and hope)
that besides appreciation for the wonderful
destinations she has visited, she has also
learned that life isnt all smooth sailing;
hitches occur, plans need to be changed,
you have to adapt and make doand come
out smiling.
Ive heard people remark that travel
is wasted on children since they dont
remember much of where theyve been. The
problem with that approach is that it reduces
travel to a list of destinations when it is so
OUR
MISSION
Holidaying with a
ten-month-old in the
Western Ghats.
18
National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with
amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
ANDRE MORRIS
Notebook |
CONNECT
@natgeotravellerindia
@NGTIndia
3,10,235
facebook.com/natgeotraveller.india
THE FIND
FOOD MATTERS
Book Nook
Served Fresh
THE BACKSTORY
PICTURE POSTCARD
Capturing a
Crowd
Spanish Sun
20
Ibiza, in my head, is synonymous with trippy clubs and sandy shores, mostly thanks
to the Vengaboys. So when my colleague (and work bestie), Kamakshi, went on a
holiday to that party island, I knew I wanted something from there. She came back
with goodies galoreincluding this lovely wooden postcard. Although she says she
didnt see any of these old-style Volkswagen camper vans there, the images were
plastered over a lot of the
souvenirs for sale and
the vehicles are available
on rent. I can imagine
sitting in a vintage bus
like this driving around
Ibiza. As for the beaches,
Kamakshi wrote, They
demand that only
Baywatch-level bodies
sunbathe there. And, the
water changes colour like
a disco floor.
Online Features Writer,
Fabiola Monteiro
Notebook |
CONNECT
NATGEOTRAVELLER.IN
ALL
NEW
WEB
SITE
A New Leaf
National Geographic Traveller
Indias website turned a new leaf
with the first monsoon showers.
Our new website is leaner, cleaner,
and packed with stories, trip
ideas, and photoessays celebrating
our breathtaking planet and its
inhabitants. Weve got inspiring
tales of hiking in the Himalayas,
bar-hopping in sunny Seville in
Spain, and wildlife safaris from
Kanha to the Kalahari Desert.
But we also have ideas for smaller
trips, quick breaks from the city
to rejuvenate the soul and shake
off the monotony of daily routines.
Dive in, and tell us what you
think by writing to web.editor@
natgeotraveller.in. Wed love to hear
your feedback, and notes from your
travels too.
W W W . N A T G E O T R A V E L L E R . I N
TRIP IDEAS
EDITORS PICKS
MOST POPULAR
GETAWAYS
TRAVEL TALK
Stay clued in with the News section of Travel Talk, browse through our
selection of Columns, or make the most of the travel hacks and advice
From the Experts.
Our new Photo Stories section is filled with breathtaking images (plus
an all new gallery), and we also have sections dedicated to Illustrated
tales, Videos, and Podcasts.
22
Our Getaways section is divided into Hotels, ideal for quick breaks, Epic
Journeys, dedicated to life-changing travels, and Inspire Me, which
includes thoughtful lists to spark ideas for your next holiday.
CLA N RU L ES
Grazing
with Gusto
WHAT A VEGETARIAN DOES IN A MEAT-LOVING
LAND CHANGES WITH EACH GENERATION
24
Aditya Daftary
is a Mumbai-based radiologist
who likes to wander. While in the
city, he spends more time on his
bicycle than in his car, and hopes
that soon family vacations will
also be the same.
IRA BERGER/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
Voices |
Voices |
CR EW CU T
Not Without
My Theplas
MAKING A CASE FOR ONE OF INDIAS MOST
VERSATILE TRAVEL FOODS
26
Kamakshi Ayyar
is a Features Writer on
National Geographic Traveller
Indias web team. Shes partial
to places by the sea and desserts
in all forms. When she isnt
raving about food, shes usually
rambling on about the latest
cosmic mysteries.
head while a kaka passes bhakris to his wife seated a row behind
him on a flight. But we dont mean any harm.
And even if Kaka did wake you up, why take it out on the
thepla, that delicious upgrade on a chapati, flecked with
fenugreek (methi) leaves and sesame seeds, and seasoned with
turmeric, chilli powder, and jaggery? They can be real lifesavers, especially for Indian students abroad, as I can testify
from personal experience (I love them with butter, and sea salt
& vinegar chips). Upon receiving a care package from home, a
friend who lived in Los Angeles, subsisted on a diet of theplas
smothered in avocado and chaat masala for an entire week. He
couldnt have been happier.
NAVIGATE
30
local flavour
The art of making gayna bori lives
on in the Bengal countryside
48
on foot
From Amritsar to Chennai, 12 food
walks for the insatiable traveller
74
my city
Volcanoes outnumber skyscrapers
in Auckland, New Zealand
Batter Up in Belgium
SWEETEN YOUR EUROPEAN ITINERARY WITH A TRIP TO WAFFLE COUNTRY BY JENNIFER BILLOCK
BRUSSELS The Brussels waffle, which
debuted at the 1958 Brussels Worlds
Fair, is the forefather of the popular
Belgian waffle. But they arent the
samethe Belgium capitals is more of
a snack, often covered in strawberries
and whipped cream or chocolate. The
yeast version (the one we usually get
is yeast free) is available at any waffle
stand but is best fresh off the iron
at 187-year-old Maison Dandoy on
Rue au BeurreButter Street (www.
maisondandoy.com).
28
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
30
LO CA L F L AVOU R
32
ARUNDHATI RAY
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
Bottoms Up in Mexico
34
LO CA L F L AVOU R
36
PHOTO COURTESY: JOSE CUERVO (BARRELS, DANCERS), JOSEF LINDAU/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES (GIRL)
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
38
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
40
Beechers flagship store and kitchen at Pikes Place (top) is a Seattle institution. It offers visitors
a clear view into their cheesemaking facility (bottom) where the magical processes take place.
THE VITALS
Visitors can watch all the action in
the cheesemaking kitchens of the
Beechers store-caf in Seattle while
enjoying a meal (1600 Pike Place; 9
a.m.-7 p.m. daily; mac and cheese
from $5/`335 and grilled cheese
sandwiches from $5.94/`400). Some
Pike Place Market tours, including
Savor Seattle, stop at Beechers for
tastings. Cafs also at Seattle-Tacoma
airport and in Bellevue city. Another
Beecher's facility is in New Yorks
Flatiron District. It occasionally offers
cheese education sessions (www.
beechershandmadecheese.com).
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
La Vie Chocolat
COCOA HITS ALL THE SWEET NOTES IN THE BASQUE TOWN OF BAYONNE, FRANCES SPIRITED
CAPITAL OF CHOCOLATE BY CEIL MILLER BOUCHET | PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN FINKE
A visit to the Atelier
du Chocolat workshop
is a history lesson in
chocolate-making followed
by tasting chocolates from
around the world.
42
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
Chocolate shops (left) line Bayonnes Rue Port Neuf; Foam tops a cup of chocolat chaud, or hot chocolate, (right) at the chocolate shop, Cazenave.
44
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
Chocolate glaze pours from a pitcher to coat a cake at Maison Paris (top left); Bonbon banane confections fill a tray at LAtelier du Chocolat (top
right); Pirouette pastries receive final touches at Maison Paris (bottom left); Master chocolatier Denis Ortali dips balls of ganache into liquid
chocolate at Daranatz (bottom right).
46
SLOVAKIA
IA
BANGLADE
ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
Bayonne, France
During Frances Feast of Ascension in May,
Bayonne celebrates Les Journes du
Chocolat, or Chocolate Days, when
chocolatiers set up street stalls
for free tastings and
demonstrations.
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O N FO OT
Taste Trails
EATING THROUGH INDIA ON 12 DIVERSE FOOD WALKS BY DIYA KOHLI
Jalebis in Varanasi.
VARANASI
Holy Kachori
Religion dominates the ghats of Varanasi, but
in its streets, food reigns supreme. On a walk
through the citys ancient streets, feast on the
famous tamatar chaat and sip cold thandai
near the temples. Queue up to grab one of the
hundreds of plates of crispy kachoris being doled
out every minute. Chase it down with sweets
like the delectable malai chhenna roll. Winter
brings the exquisite seasonal delicacy of malaiyo,
crafted from milk foam and dewdrops. (www.
indiacitywalks.com; duration 3 hr; tours only on
booking; `3,500 per person; book a spot two days
in advance.)
48
Vaishnav
thattu idli
CHENNAI
Muruku Twist
This early evening
food trail is full of
stories. Winding
through the street food
market in Sowcarpet,
one of Chennais oldest
neighbourhoods, it
includes secret recipes
and encounters with
people in the business.
Sample chaat from
different parts of India
and traditional foods
with modern tweaks,
like the flavourful
muruku sandwich.
(www.storytrails.in;
duration 2 hr; tours
at 4 p.m.; `1,500
per person; schedule
on website.)
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O N FO OT
HYDERABAD
KOLKATA
Street Joys
MADURAI
Sweet Juggernaut
Madurai's food culture combines the richness of Chettinad cuisine with
eclectic street food. The city of temples is famous for its range of sweets and
meaty specialities like kothu parottas, a delicious dish of pieces of parotta
with meat, egg, and a spicy sauce. Foodies Day Outs walks also include the
citys unique drink, the jil jil jigarthanda, made with milk, ice cream, and
sarsaparilla syrup. (www.foodiesdayout.com; duration 3-3.5 hr; tours at 5.30
p.m. daily; `2,000 per person; book one week in advance.)
Kolkatas cuisine is
a hybrid of foreign
influences and local
flavours. And nowhere
is this more apparent
than on its streets.
Calcutta Walks leads
the New Market and
Around walk featuring
an assortment of
cuisines, and includes
historic eateries of
this central Kolkata
neighbourhood.
Participants get to
sample a variety of
foods from sweet
treats at a Jewish
bakery to kobiraji
cutlets from the Raj
era, kormas from the
old-world Mughlai
cabins, and kathi rolls.
(www.calcuttawalks.
com; duration 3 hr;
schedule on website;
from `2,000 per
person.)
Biryani
MYSORE
Pak a Punch
Banta soda
AMRITSAR
Lassi Town
50
PHOTO COURTESY: FOODIES DAY OUT (PEOPLE), PHOTO COURTESY: IFTEKHAR AHSAN - [email protected] (STREET STALL),
PHOTO COURTESY: FOOD TRAILS INDIA (BOTTLES), CSP_MBAHUGUNA/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (BIRYANI), SHUTTERSTOCK (SWEET)
Street food
in Kolkata.
Hyderabad is
synonymous with
its Nizami cuisine.
Visitors usually
sample its fragrant
biryanis, buttery fruit
biscuits from Karachi
bakery, rich nihari
stews, and steaming
Irani tea. The Old
City Food Walk
offered by Detours
takes visitors on a
ramble through old
markets, traditional
bakeries, and local
food stalls, tasting
some of the best bits
along the way. (www.
detoursindia.com;
duration 3 hr; tours
at 7.30 a.m. and 5.30
p.m. daily; `2,500 per
person; book one day
in advance; transportation costs extra.)
O N FO OT
MUMBAI
Gulab jamuns
Market Day in
Matunga
Buttery Flats
Tandoori
chicken
LUCKNOW
52
Dosa
JAIPUR
DELHI
Old Favourites
The walled city of Shahjahanabad or Old Delhi is a warren of lanes that
reflect the multicultural nature of the citys inhabitants. India City Walks
daytime food tour features a breakfast of champions, with slow-cooked
nihari or meat and bone marrow stew, or a rich and delicious bedmi puri
with aloo sabzi. On the night tour, visitors partake of Jama Masjids many
meaty delights while vegetarians can try parathas with different fillings at
Paranthewali Galli. (www.indiacitywalks.com; duration 3 hr; `2,000 per
person; schedule on website; book one day in advance.)
Note: Check websites for updated schedules of walks. Most companies
organise private or customised walks for a small additional charge.
PHOTO COURTESY: MUMBAI MAGIC (COFFEE), PHOTO COURTESY: VIRASAT TOURS (GULAB JAMUN), CHRISTOPHE BOISVIEUX/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA
(CHICKEN), IP-ZERO 03/INDIAPICTURE (MAN), PHOTO COURTESY: BENGALURU BY FOOT (DOSA)
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BO O KS HEL F
Guru Ka Langar, the community meal served at Amritsars Golden Temple, feeds approximately
75,000 people every day (top); Aslam Chicken Corner (bottom) in Old Delhis Matia Mahal area
is one of many kiosks serving an array of non-veg fare cooked in tandoors.
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THE SOUV EN I R
BEBINCA
FENI
CHORIZO
PAO
SOLAM
RECHEADO MASALA
56
Goas culinary scene holds more than the divine promise of platefuls of the freshest catch from the sea.
Sure, get your fill of fish-curry-rice from roadside eateries and local brews in buzzing little tavernas,
but also stop by a grocery store to stock up on the states best souvenirsof the edible kind.
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POWER O F PL AC E
58
SANJAY AUSTA
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4 8 HOU RS
CRIMSON TIDE
60
SLOVAKIA
IA
BANGLADE
ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
Moscow, Russia
Moscows metro has nearly 200 stations,
with 44 of them listed as cultural
heritage sites. The system transports
at least nine million people
each weekday.
4 8 HOU RS
Assumption Cathedral has five golden domes and its interiors are covered with elaborate frescoes (left); The Bolshoi Theatre (top right) has
played an important role in the history of Russias performing arts scene and celebrates its 240th anniversary in 2016; Matryoshka dolls (bottom
right) were first made in 1890 at the Abramtsevo artists colony located north of Moscow, which is a lovely day trip from the city.
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ALVARO LEIVA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (CATHEDRAL), ADEA/G. SIOEN/UNIVERSAL IAMEGS GROUP NORTH AMERICA LLC/DEAGOSTINI/ALAMY/
INDIAPICTURE (THEATRE), RISHIRAJ AHUJA (DOLLS)
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4 8 HOU RS
64
Ornate stations (top left) with vaulted ceilings and chandeliers make a trip on Moscow metros
much more than a commute; Local food stalls often serve a variety of grilled meat kebabs called
shashlik (top right); Apart from the iconic St. Basils (bottom) there are other famous cathdrals in
the Kremlin complex clustered around the nearby the Sobornaya or Cathedral Square.
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HI STO RY
Fortress of Myth
and Memory
THE ANCIENT BASTION OF MASADA RISES ABOVE THE LOWEST PLACE ON EARTH BY DIYA KOHLI
66
Masada was among King Herods early forts which combined military defences with luxurious living.
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HI STO RY
68
Different living quarters, storage areas, and baths of Masada fort (left) are carefully reconstructed to enable visitors to visually imagine the place
and its bygone glory; The cable car (right) is a quick way up from the eastern side of the mountain, affording great views of the surrounding
Roman camps; Peter OToole (bottom) cuts a dashing figure as a Roman commander in the 1981 miniseries, Masada, based on the historic siege.
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FA M I LY TI M E
City of Caves
DEEP IN THE BOWELS OF NOTTINGHAM, STORIES ARE LARGER THAN LIFE BY SHREYA SEN-HANDLEY
70
STEPHEN HANDLEY
FA M I LY TI M E
It is ironic that the citys iconic outlaw, Robin Hood (top left), has pride of place at Nottingham
Castle; Many of the caves were used as pub cellars (top right) to brew and store beer and other
ales; The sprawling Old Market Square (bottom) has been a meeting place for people and is the
location for local events, civic protests, royal visits, celebrations, and public mourning.
72
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M Y C I TY
Auckland is a city of
volcanoes, including
Maungawhau or Mount Eden.
74
SLOVAKIA
IA
BANGLADE
ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
LUCY G. PHOTOGRAPHY
AMY TOENSING/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (BEACH), JENNY & TONY ENDERBY/GETTY IMAGES (STATUE)
Low tide reveals a wide stretch of Piha Beachs black iron sands. Its also a city of water, overseen by Tangaroa, the Maori god of the sea (top).
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
75
IN FOCUS
96
nagaland
The synergy of food and daily life
in the mountains
104
pondicherry
Food remedies a storm-stricken
family holiday
KY CHO/SHUTTERSTOCK
88
tamil nadu
A Chettinad food pilgrimage reveals
the truth behind its spirited cuisine
78
Maruyama Park in
Kyoto, Japan.
77
JAPAN
78
ARTHUR GREENBERG/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
JAPAN
UNVARNISHED TABLES
NARIN NONTHAMAND/SHUTTERSTOCK
BY VIDYA BALACHANDER
79
80
JAPAN
Iyers observations from The Lady and the Monk still rang true.
Even the poor here... could feel like dignitaries, each purchase
wrapped for them like priceless treasure.
While it was easy to be seduced by Tokyos briskness, it was
perhaps a measure of how time and travel had changed me that
I longed not for the thrill of keeping up, but for the luxury of
slowing down. While I may have once courted adventure, all I
really sought now was stillness. As much as I enjoyed the electric crackle in Tokyos air, I was looking forward to the change of
pace that I knew Kyoto would bring.
There may be no better place for quiet introspection than
this ancient birthplace of Zen Buddhism. But unlike Iyer, who
sought to find meaning in monasteries and templesa theme
that courses through the bookI knew that my wanderings
would be in the pursuit of other pleasures.
I discovered my idea of slow living in Nishiki Market, a
narrow warren of mainly food stores spread across a whole
street in Kyoto. On either side of the covered market, there
were stalls selling all manner of culinary delights: from coveted
chef knives with sharp blades and heavy, wooden handles; to
an extravaganza of funky-smelling kimchi; to fresh, warm rice
crackers coated with feisty Japanese shishito pepper; to ground
spice mixes presented as prettily as a paint palette.
Time slowed down to a delicious crawl as we walked, pausing
to explore a store dedicated solely to sesame products. Our
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
81
TOTORORO/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES
Osakas Shinsekai area is well known for restaurants serving kushi-katsu or deep-fried vegetables and meat on skewers, and fugu or the
poisonous blowfish.
82
JAPAN
F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK
83
In Focus | TASTE
TASTE O
OFF TRAV
TRAVEL
EL
Nishiki Market abounds in seasonal finds like roasted chestnuts (top); A restaurant specialising in ramen (bottom), a noodle soup that enjoys a
cult following in Japan.
84
JAPAN
85
Known as Kyotos entertainment quarter, Gion (top) offers a glimpse of traditional wooden houses and geishas in kimonos; Steamed edamame
beans (below) are a much-loved snack, served inside their tender green pods.
TASTING ROOM
JAPANS FOOD SCENE IS FAR TOO COMPLEX AND VARIED TO FIT INTO ONE TRIPOR
EVEN TWO. WHILE THE COUNTRY TEEMS WITH MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS,
EVEN EVERYDAY EXPERIENCES ARE USUALLY OF A HIGH STANDARD. HERES A LIST OF
WHAT I TRIED AND LOVED
JAPANESE SPICE MIXES
TEMPURA
SUSHI
FRENCH PATISSERIE
The Japanese have long had a
passionate affair with French
pastry. This translates to seriously
flaky croissants with Japanese
fillings such as sesame paste and
matcha, but also elegant desserts at
homegrown patisserie chains such
as Sadaharu Aoki.
KITKAT
Dont leave Japan without trying
one of the countrys unique spins
on ubiquitous KitKat. One of my
favourites was the houjicha flavour,
with the toasty aroma of the green
tea that is roasted over charcoal.
86
IZAKAYA STAPLES
Loud, smoky and casual, izakayas
offer the unique opportunity to
see the famously proper Japanese
let their guard down. Ask for sake
or umeshu (Japanese plum wine,
usually diluted with soda), and wash
it down with steamed edamame
beans or gingko nuts (pictured),
yakitori (skewers of grilled meat or
vegetables), and yakisoba or bowls of
saucy soba noodles drenched in soy.
JAPANESE WHISKY
Whisky lovers have long known that
Japan produces some exquisite
blends. One of the best places to
try a variety of Japanese whiskies is
Zoetrope, an intimate bar in Tokyos
Shinjuku district.
MOCHI
One of the more unusual items
I tried in Kyotos Nishiki Market
was a savoury mochi or glutinous
rice cake. Stretchy, toasty, and
slightly smoky, the rice cakes have
a gentle sweetness, and they are
topped with everything from cheese
and sesame to a sweet red bean
paste. Its also worthwhile trying
mochi ice cream, or sweet rice cakes
with an ice cream filling.
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JAPAN
&
G
S
LO
T
U
R
G
TAMIL N ADU
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
Madurais
towering temples
are feats of the
imagination, filled
with deities and
demons draped in
jewellery, armed
with weapons,
and often,
bearing more
limbs than usual.
89
90
ASAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK
There are two reasons people visit Madurai: Meenakshi and mutton.
Meenakshi is Madurais feared and revered temple deity, the threebreasted consort of Shiva, who presides over the scorching city
from the cool, stone sanctum of the Meenakshi Amman kovil. The
temple is an arresting sight, its gopuram crowded with candycoloured angels and demons that seem crafted from fondant. Like
a gaudy, tiered confection of mythical proportions. But I am more
interested in the mutton. Madurais no-nonsense Chettinad messes,
I am told, serve every part of the goatbrain, intestine, liver, lung,
tongue, hooves, and headand I intend on sampling each one.
TAMIL N ADU
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AYAN GHOSH
92
TAMIL N ADU
2
3
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93
94
kitchen door. Its the eyeball that hes saved specially for me. I
shake his hand with my clean one, and pop the harmless looking
piece into my mouththe only part of the goat I havent yet
tasted. Its not the least bit icky as some might imagine, and
quite creamy and delicious.
Packing my bags in my room, I come across a packet of black
rice that I first encountered in a sweet pongal a few days ago.
Mrs. Meyyappan had said the rice was brought to
Tamil Nadu from Malaysia over a century ago by
a Chettiar trader who developed a fondness
for its nutty flavour. It is now grown
locally, and often on the hotels breakfast
menu. Thats another thing I love about
Chettinad cuisine: it is as much of a
revelation for vegetarians as it is for meat
eaters. I examine the rest of the stash
Ive acquired on my journey through this
region: plump Madurai chillies, enamelcoated spoons, a heavy kal chatti (stone pot),
and more packets of masala than I can use in
a year. My favourite souvenir is a cotton handloom
sari I bought from a weaver near Karaikudi. It has
neither embroidery, nor motifs, nor zari. Instead, the turmeric
yellow sari has pepper-black and chilli-red lines that meet in the
pallu to form the classic Chettinad check. A subtle memento of
Chettinads fiery cuisine and its generous people.
Neha SumitraN is National Geographic Traveller Indias perpetually
hungry Web Editor. She loves exploring food markets, and hopes
to have a farm near the mountains someday.
Burma Idiyappam shop in Madurai has just one thing on the menu: pillow-soft string hoppers with a sprinkling of coconut and sugar; Breakfast in
Karaikudi (bottom) is testament to how much Tamilains love rice: string hoppers, idlis, vada, pongal, and paniyaram (like pan-fried idlis) are staples.
TAMIL N ADU
Once the heart of the Chettiar community, Kanadukathan village (top) remains hauntingly beautiful, its streets lined with mansions.
THE GUIDE
ORIENTATION
Madurai city is on the banks of the River
Vaigai in Tamil Nadu. The Chettinad
region is spread over the states
Sivaganga and Pudukottai districts.
The regions principal town is Karaikudi,
which is 87 km/2 hr east of Madurai, 450
km/8 hr southwest of Chennai, and 420
km/8 hr southeast of Bengaluru. Roads
from Chennai and Bengaluru are in good
condition.
SEASONS
The sun is always shining in Madurai
and the rest of Chettinad. The peak of
summer (March-May) is particularly
unforgiving with day temperatures often
hitting 40C. Between June and August,
the region receives light rainfall, rarely
enough to dampen travel plans. Its
warm again in October, but the weather
improves between November and early
March, when evening temperatures
hover around 25C.
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4
1 Dried river fish is often
used to brighten chutneys.
2 A lunch of Naga dal with
greens, foxtail millet cooked
with yam, and wood-borer
insects. 3 Nuggets of pork
are smoked to preserve the
meat and create complex
flavours. 4 Wood borer
insects are cooked with
water, ginger, and salt and
then dehydrated till they
turn crunchy. 5 Chakhesang
farmers dry foxtail millet
to collect the seeds for future
planting. 6 A market stall
sells the Sumi tribe specialty
of smoked pork with the
fermented soya paste
of axon.
Facing page A bowl of foraged
ferns and Naga dal stew.
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N AGALAN D
was the dish I had most eagerly anticipated eating. This meat
has been smoked and dried for two weeks by Rovizonos uncle.
Rovizono now cooks the pork belly in water, with crushed, dried
king chilli, and fermented bamboo shoots. As the meat cooks,
the fat slowly melts into the liquid. Once the pork is almost
cooked, the water is allowed to boil off, leaving behind a red-hot
emulsion of fat. The pork is paired with local red rice, a rustic
minimalism that seems appropriate to my surroundings. As we
eat, smoke from the recently extinguished pit slowly cures pieces
of meat that have been hanging on cane twine a few feet above it,
perhaps for months, drying away.
For dessert, we cut into some citron-like fruits that locals simply
call nimbu. These ovate fruits are incredibly fragrant, almost
artificially so, reminding me of lemon-flavoured Fruittella. As
Rovizono discards the rind, I think what a great garnish it would
make for a freshly poured gin martini. The fruits thick pith
is mildly sweet, with a bitter edge, but the pulp is dry,
nearly tasteless, with the hint of mosambi.
The next day, we set off towards the jhum
fields, before heading to Chizami. Our Maruti
800 rattles through a thick forest, past a wild
apple orchard, before arriving at a clearing
obscured by plumes of smoke. Standing on
a smoking jhum field, I look at the charcoal
scenery, interrupted by alder stumps all around.
Alder is used for firewood, and the trees are not
completely cut down (logging is actually banned
here), but reduced to tall stumps from which new
saplings eventually grow. According to researchers,
this ensures a steady source of firewood while the
deep, old roots have the additional benefit of fixing
atmospheric nitrogen into the dirt, and controlling soil drainage.
The journey from Khonoma to Chizami is four hours of lows
and highs, smooth stretches that give way to loose gravel. The
temperature drops as we climb to Pfutsero, the highest town in
Nagaland at 2,133 metres. While descending, the road meanders through dense forests, with steep, terraced slopes soaring
above the valley. Every hamlet has its own church, which usually
stands on an accessible plateau.
We finally arrive in Chizami, at the campus of the
Northeast Network (NEN), a non-profit organisation that will
accommodate us in its guesthouse. The NEN primarily focuses
on womens rights. Some of its primary goals are to increase
womens participation in the management of local resources
and uphold indigenous practices, which often overlap with seed
security, agro-biodiversity, and sustainable farming. Visitors like
us help offset their costs.
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
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the next, Ive begun to see how the variety and abundance of
food growing here influences taste. The ethos of the cooking is
simple. Complexity comes in through the flavours and textures,
which vary according to season.
Tonight, were cooking Naga dal, a local legume that looks a bit
like black-eyed peas, soured with a local fruit called meztshe, to
go with our wild cabbage. Meztshe is a wild stone fruit from the
mango family, and the dal is reminiscent of raw mango sambhar.
We also make galho, which is any thick stew of greens and meat,
cooked in rice, with the necessary inclusion of bamboo shoots,
chilli, and a funky, fermented soybean known as axon. The funk
and spice permeate through the textures of the food with ease,
warming my belly with joy.
The next morning, we set out into the forest on a foraging
expedition, walking east of Chizami in the general direction of
the Myanmar border, which is about 50 kilometres away as the
crow flies. While people pride themselves on hunting, foraging
is a necessary complement to this skill. Men spend days out on
hunts with only the forest to feed them.
At first, Im overwhelmed by large ferns draping the mossy
walls of the hills or the odd rivulet coming out of an unseen crevice. As we spend more time in the forest, my eyes adjust to its
complexity. I begin noticing the many varieties of ferns in this
dense cover. Out of the hundreds of ferns growing here, Vitsino
deftly identifies and collects the edible ones. Almost every five
steps, she stops to point out a plant, and explain its medicinal
PIRAN ELAVIA
In Chizami village, a Chakhesang elder stands by a community house embellished with the traditional cross ploughs motif on top.
N AGALAN D
THE VITALS
food to feed and care for pigs, I understand why meat is meant
to be an expensive commodity.
In the evening, when we gather around an elder from the community, I learn that the folk songs and tales of this village are
also inextricable to the land, and what people make of it. Seno
Tsuhah translates the stories, and some of them involve warriors
and tigers, but others describe ancestors breaking down slopes
and constructing terrace fields using the bones of cows as tools,
or lovers leaving notes on forest paths while collecting food. In
one story, two lovers are separated by mountains, but listen for
each others echoing songs as they work the fields.
Perhaps my favourite folk tale is one about the origins of axon.
According to a story from the Sumi tribe, Khujunakaliu was a
young orphan who was adopted by her uncle. She worked hard
in the fields, but her aunt was unkind to her and gave her boiled
soybeans, packed in dirty banana leaves, for lunch. Unable to
stomach this dish, Khujunakaliu left her wrapped lunch packets
in a hut near the field. After a few weeks, she smelled a funky
aroma suffusing the hut. Khujunakaliu enjoyed the taste, shared
it with friends, and axon was invented. It seems appropriate that
in Nagalands version of the Cinderella story, the discovery of a
new ingredient is the happy ending.
AdityA RAghAvAn is a physicist turned cheesemaker whose
passions include food, libations, and travel. He divides his time
between Canada and India.
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People-watching is best at the promenade (top), where the Bay of Bengal meets the French Quarter; One side of the Eglise de Notre Dame
des Anges church (bottom left) looks over the city, while the other
opens out to a garden by the sea dedicated to Joan of Arc; Rooms at
the Hotel de lOrient (bottom right) were once in shambles, but now, like
other restoration projects in the city, are in top-notch condition.
106
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Pondicherry is one of few Indian cities that make you feel like
youve entered a time machine. On the French side of town, roads
with names like Dumas Street and Goubert Avenue are reminders of colonial rule. Even redeveloped buildings are designed to
recall their erstwhile French-style architectural facades. On the
Tamil side, open verandas, wooden posts, colourful floor tiles,
and roomy inner courtyards bring to mind the rich architecture
of the not-so-far-off Chettinad region. We had made our way
to the Tamil Quarteror Heritage Townfor our memorable
lunch at Maison Perumal. After a meal like that, theres no room
for a glum mood.
During the rest of our rain-spattered days there, this became
our routine. We headed out each day to stroll through the city,
staying clear of the rain by ducking into cafs for pick-me-up
coffees and sweet hot chocolates. On our walks in Pondicherry,
we visited colonial churches, bookstores, and boutiques. In the
newly renovated seaside Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges church
(Church of Our Lady of Angels)which stands out thanks to
its bright, almost gaudy, shade of pink paintI said a quiet
prayer for leagues of travels like this. At a pop-up book sale, I
scored a book of Pondicherry folktales and a pocket Tamil-toEnglish dictionary. Another time, at La Boutique dAuroville,
Dad purchased sticks of Ayurvedic incense, while I spotted a
summery pair of striped orange culottes. We collected numerous
souvenirs, but the stops we made to consider ordinary items like
wooden cutlery and ceramic kitchenware were the ones that
gave me pause. I realised that even the remotest mention of food
makes our heads turn.
One evening, we stumbled upon a little caf-cum-boutique,
107
Pondicherry is a tiny, bicycle-friendly city. Sita Cultural Center, off Mission Street, conducts regular cycling tours for travellers.
108
Clean lines, brightly coloured walls, and elegant balconies are common sights around Pondicherrys French Quarter.
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Singapore
Food
Guide
MUST-TRY DISHES & TOP PANTRY PICKS
112
WONG YU LIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK
S IN GAPO RE
113
Chicken Rice
No Singapore hawker centre (food court) is complete without
a stall (or a dozen) selling chicken rice, Singapores no-frills
national dish. In the traditional Hainanese recipe, which dates
to the 1850s, the chicken is boiled and then immersed in cold
water to smoothen the skin and gelatinize the fat. It is served
114
with rice cooked in chicken broth after the grains have been
fried with garlic, sesame, and chicken fat. It is a recipe that Wee
Nam Kee Chicken Rice in central Singapore follows steadfastly,
earning a badge of authenticity among locals.
(+65-62556396; 101 Thomson Road, 1-08 United Square;
open 10.30a.m.-10.30p.m. daily; SGD4.80/`230.)
SHOWCAKE/SHUTTERSTOCK
S IN GAPO RE
Chilli Crab
Eating chilli crab is a hands-on experience. Crack
the crustacean, scoop out the moist, tender meat,
and quickly pop it in your mouth before the brown,
flavourful juice seeps out. Use bread to mop up
whats left of the spicy sauce made with hot sambal,
tomato, onion, and egg. Matchbox-sized Mattar
Road Seafood Barbecue takes an hour to serve this
legendary dish, but its worth the wait. The owner
claims his recipe dates back to the 1950s, and he
devotes two days each week to preparing his sambal
and letting it rest. The result is an addictive balance
of sweet, spicy, and sour.
(+65-6447 2798; 1-63, 51 Old Airport Road Food
Centre; open 3-11 p.m., Thu-Mon; SGD40/`1,925 for
a 1-kg crab.)
Satay
Every evening, Lau Pa Sat hawker centre thrums with the
voices of satay vendors hawking their barbecued delights.
Plastic chairs and tables are set up outside stalls, and the
air is heady with the smoky aroma of chicken, beef, and
prawn sizzling on skewers. Some patrons take their barbecue party inside the centre, sitting under Lau Pa Sats high
19th-century arches, amid Victorian columns with fine,
filigree ironwork. The grilled meat is served with sweetand-spicy peanut sauce, and best enjoyed with chilled beer,
which is the second-most popular buy in Lau Pa Sat.
(18, Raffles Quay; open 24 hours; satay 70 cents/`34
per stick.)
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BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK (CHILLI CRAB), STUDIO PAGGY/GETTY IMAGES (DIM SUMS), DOLPHFYN/SHUTTERSTOCK (SATAY)
Dim Sum
Nasi Padang
Century Eggs
Century eggs arent for everybody. The Chinese
delicacy is made by preserving chicken, duck, or
quail eggs in a saline solution for a few weeks,
some say years. The result is an ominouslooking grey yolk with egg white that has turned
a translucent black-coffee brown. Its a far
stronger flavour than boiled eggs, but one thats
surprisingly smooth and packed with umami.
Available at Din Tai Fung.
(+65-68368336; B1-03 Paragon shopping
centre, 290 Orchard Rd; www.dintaifung.
com.sg; open 11a.m.-9.30p.m.; meal for two
SGD60/`2,900 approx.)
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S IN GAPO RE
Sambal Stingray
Fiery sambal, made with ginger, garlic, onions,
vinegar, rice wine, and shrimp, and succulent
stingray are a match made in heavenand a very
popular Malay-Singaporean delicacy. At Lau Pa
Sat, one of Singapores food courts, evenings are a
busy time when office-goers stop for a snack, and
families throng the stalls and sit around food-laden
tables. Try the sambal stingray or barbecued stingray
here. The fleshy fish is marinated in sambal paste,
wrapped in a banana leaf, and barbecued. The dish
is served with lemon wedges and chinchalok, a relish
of onion, chilli, lime, and fermented shrimp.
Kaya Toast
117
Ais Kacang
Corn and beans for dessert may sound weird, but not in
Singapore. Theyre an integral part of the technicoloured
ais kacang, thats all the rage in the nation. A bit like a
Singaporean falooda, the dessert comprises red beans,
coconut milk, rice noodles, grass jelly, and palm seeds
arranged around a bowl and topped with a mountain
of shaved ice. This is drizzled with sugary syrup and a
concoction of sweet corn and coconut milk. It is such a
popular dish, that there are gourmet versions available
in swanky restaurants. Try the options at the Chinatown
Complex Food Centre.
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of rice wine make great food souvenirs. You could also pick up
tropical fruits like rambutan just before you head back home.
Tea lovers can make a trip to the teahouses in Chinatown that
sell all manner of delicate Chinese and flavoured teas.
(Try NTUC Fairprice stores for ingredients and spices; Tiong
Bahru market for fresh fruits; and tea shops in Chinatown.)
ANDREW WATSON/PHOTOLIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES (AIS KACANG), LUCA LAZZARI/CAMARA LICIDA RM/DINODIA (STORE)
S IN GAPO RE
PAUL KINGSLEY/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
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FRAN C E
I N F R A N C E S
B E AUJ O L A I S ,
A N I N TOX I CAT I N G
B L E N D O F WA R M T H
A N D W E LC O M E
BY B R U C E S C H O E N F E L D
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S U SA N S E U B E RT
Vineyards web
the church-dotted
Beaujolais landscape.
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tells me in the kitchen of his farmhouse cottage, you can see Mont Blanc
from our porch. Im finding this hard to imagine. We are in Beaujolais, a
region of gentle hills and tidy villages tucked between the Loire and Rhne
Rivers, hundreds of kilometres from the austere Alps. Also, its February,
and the sky is leaden white. The precipitation in the air is palpable. I can
barely see my rental car, parked in the mist shrouding Suniers driveway.
But let it snow. The house, which doubles as Suniers winery, is snug.
Jazz music emanates from somewhere, and Suniers wife, Sylvie, has constructed a midday meal of roast pork and Brussels sprouts with mustard
and salsify (one of my favourite root vegetables). Over a pear tart, Sunier
says that Beaujolais has been overlooked for years but now is beginning to
draw tourists and permanent transplants, such as the two of them, from
Burgundy, just up the autoroute.
At 37, Julien Sunier is at the forefront of a new generation of Beaujolais
producers that has turned the areas reputation for modest, unmemorable
winesincluding the insidious Beaujolais nouveauon its head. His three
bottlings, each from grapes grown in a different village, are as refreshing
as crisp apples, softly fruity, and with alcohol contents low enough that
you can enjoy some at lunch and not be addled in the afternoon.
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FRAN C E
Girls in Oingt celebrate the Fte des Conscrits, an annual town birthday event that brings residents together, transcending social distinctions.
of Avenas. Along the road, once part of the Roman Via Agrippa
between Lyon and Boulogne, sits the stone Church of Notre
Dame. Bulkier than other churches Ive seen, it dates to the 12th
century and is known for a sculpted altar that guidebooks call
one of the finest in medieval Francethough youd never know
that from the small size of the sign directing visitors to the site.
Even tourism here is understated.
I stand before the altar and contemplate the seated figures of
Christ and the 12 apostles. Then Sunier leads me outside to a bar
attached to the local restaurant, Le Relais des Sapins (Inn of the
Fir Trees). A man grasps Sunier by the shoulders and gives him
a hearty embrace.
Hes the mayor, Sunier tells me as we sit down. Im not from
here, as you know. But in Beaujolais, thats not a problem.
Its in public spaces like this, Ive already learned, where
the social life of the region plays out: in restaurants, outdoor
markets, town squares, and small shops, from which a traveller
cant exit without hearing a singsong chorus of Bon voyage! If
a visitor shows up at a bar, its not uncommon for locals to walk
over and introduce themselves.
When someone notices you have an empty glass, you will immediately have a full glass, Sunier says. Within half an hour,
youll know everyone.
THOUGH IVE BEEN WRITING about wine for two decades,
it never occurred to me to visit Beaujolais until now. The wineJULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
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Once a chapel, the painted Old Church Cellar (left) in Julinas today touts
earthier spiritsincluding the ruby-coloured local vintage; Cold cuts, cheeses,
and other treats (top) fill a plate at the Auberge du Paradis; Beaujolais back
roads (bottom) weave past vineyards and farms.
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Ive realized that the best meals in the region, even those at the
few Michelin-starred restaurants, are simple and shirtsleeveinformal: roasted chicken, morels nestled close, good bread on
the table. The meal today ranks among the best Ive had. The
restaurant is clean, bright, and modern, yet serves earthy, unadorned food. Between bites, Mathieu reveals that he plans to
open a similar restaurant of his own in the coming months, in
part so he can get the kind of food he likes all week long.
The places I want to go to always seem closed, he says.
Then he brings me back to the winery. The sun has come out
now, and we stand in a courtyard tasting his wines. This is
where I receive my visitors, he says. Its far better than standing in a cellar.
He opens a bottle of the 2009 Morgon and explains that he
loves how different it is from the vintages that preceded and
followed it. Consistency, the basis for most successful business
models, is the opposite of what he wants to accomplish.
The loaf that a baker bakes on Monday is different from the
one he bakes on Tuesday, he says. If hes a real baker.
The sun is lighting up the sky from behind us, casting an
ethereal brightness onto the courtyard. The 2009 Morgon is
exceptional, the best Beaujolais Ive had. I start to tell Mathieu
what I think, but he holds up a hand. He doesnt want me to
analyze it; he doesnt even want me to consider it. He just wants
me to drink it.
Colorado-based travel writer Bruce Schoenfeld specializes in
writing about wines. Contributing photographer SuSan SeuBert
divides her time between Oregon and Hawaii, U.S.A.
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FRAN C E
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Mcon
E62
N79
Visa
Where to Sip
Need to know
130
Pruzilly
Crches-surSane
Julli
Saint-AmourBellevue
Julinas
N6
RomancheThorins
Chiroubles
Domaine LathuilireGravallon
Varennes-lsMcon
Thoissey
Lanci
Villi-Morgon
Saint-Didiersur-Chalaronne
Domaine
M. Lapierre
Drac
RHNE-ALPES
E15
A6
Le Pr du Plat
Domaine de la
Vote des Crozes
Cerci
2
0 mi
Belleville
0 km
Feature: Beaujolais
6th Proof
Traveler
7/25/13
Eat
Atlas
Olivier Muguet
specializes in traditional
dishes made with
seasonal produce at La
Poulard in La Chapellede-Guinchay (www.lapoularde71.fr; set meal
for two 126/`9,530).
The look of Le Pr du
Plat, a neighbourhood
bistro in Cerci, is
modern, but the
foodparticularly
the daily specialsis
down-home. Features a
strong selection of local
wines (set meal for two
32/`2,420).
Stay
On the northern edge of Beaujolais, in tiny but
fashionable Saint-Amour, Auberge du Paradis
offers nine individually styled rooms. Breakfast is a
highlight: Nearly everythingjams to charcuterieis
made in-house (www.aubergeduparadis.fr; doubles
from 145/Rs11,000).
Chteau de la Barge, in Crches-sur-Sane, is
an ivy-covered 17th-century manor house with a
swimming pool and high-ceilinged rooms (www.
chateaudelabarge.fr; doubles from 153/Rs11,600).
INTERNATIONAL MAPPING
Getting There
A6
E62
Domaine
Julien
Sunier Avenas
Church of
Notre Dame
Orientation
BOURGOGNE
Sane
THE GUIDE
J O
L A
I S
E15
FRAN C E
131
BY BILL FINK
PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI
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A NEW
COFFEE
DESTINATION
BEARS FRUIT
IN THE
COUNTRYS
NORTH
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A local harvest
of organically
grown coffee fruit
eventually ends up
as a drink to linger
over at Ikaro Caf,
in Santa Marta.
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processing, and roasting coffee. Visitors will see the same welloiled machinery in use since the farms beginnings: waterpowered generators, gravity-driven sorters, and hand-cranked
presses. Tours conclude with a tasting of their blends, often
accompanied by home-made apple pie. Other local farms
promote scheduled and drop-in tours and tastings of high-end
coffeesa difference from only a few years ago when Colombia
had an unofficial policy of export the best, and drink the rest.
Drinking a good cup of coffee is just the beginning of a trip
to Minca, where swathes of coffee beans dry on street side tarps
in season. Hiking trails wind through Sierra Nevada rainforest
to the Marinka and Pozo Azul waterfalls. Hundreds of butterfly
and bird species native to the area include parrots so plentiful
theyre like pigeons, according to one visitor.
Minca plantations may flash back a few generations, but indigenous Kogi farms (or those of the more remote Arhuaco),
located deeper in the mountains, are a journey back centuries.
The tribes live without electricity in traditional adobe huts with
thatched roofs. They often carry their mochila (handwoven
knapsacks) and wear homespun cotton clothing, white to symbolize the purity of nature. Their traditional conical headgear
represents sacred snow-capped mountain peaks. Their mamos
(spiritual guides) perform purification ceremonies of prayer and
song prior to planting and harvesting the beans.
TAYRONA NATIONAL
NATURAL PARK
C a ri b b e a n
Sea
PANAMA
AREA
ENLARGED
VENEZ.
Santa
Marta
90
Guachaca
G
ai
COLOMBIA
Coffee
Bogot
triangle
Minca
ra
Hacienda
la Victoria
90
Ciudad
Perdida
Cienaga
5 mi
SIERRA NEVADA
DE SANTA MARTA
NATIONAL NATURAL PARK
5 km
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CO LO MBIA
THE GUIDE
Colombia is located on the northwestern tip of South America.
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a range of mountains
that runs along Colombias coast with the Caribbean Sea. The
gateway to the region is the coastal city of Santa Marta, which
is 950 km north of the countrys capital Bogota. The town of
Minca is 17 km/40 min southeast of Santa Marta.
Getting There
Flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Bogota require at least one
stopover at a European gateway. Frequent 1.5-hour-long flights
connect Bogota with Santa Marta. Buses and taxis ply regularly
between Santa Marta airport and Minca.
Visa
Indians who have a valid U.S. or Schengen visa can stay in
Colombia for up to 90 days without applying for a separate
visa. Others can obtain a list of required documents and
submit applications at www.cancilleria.gov.co. The submission
is followed by an initial non-refundable payment of `3,640. If
the application is approved, applicants must pay an additional
`6,000 for the visa. The processing time is about ten working
days. Do check whether you need a transit visa for your layover.
Where to Stay
Ecohabs Tayrona Thatched seaside bungalows designed
by a local architect nestle in Tayrona National Park
(ecohabsantamarta.com; doubles from $279/`18,800,
including breakfast).
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Orientation
137
Inspire |
BELGI U M
GERMANY
BELGIUM
DINNER IN
THE SKY
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
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Inspire |
AUSTRA L I A
INDONESIA
AUSTRALIA
Sydney
INDIAN OCEAN
FERRIS WHEEL
DINING
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
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Inspire |
NETHER L A N DS
UNITED
KINGDOM
GERMANY
NETHERLANDS
FRANCE
CULIAIR HOT
AIR BALLOON
RESTAURANT
Morocco
Algeria
Tunisia
Malta
NETHERLANDS
142
143
TRAVEL QUIZ
T E S T Y O U R T R AV E L I Q
WHEN WAS
THE FIRST
MICHELIN
FOOD GUIDE
PUBLISHED?
WHAT IS POKE
IN HAWAII?
6
IN WHAT PART OF
THE WORLD IS "HAVE
YOU EATEN YET?" A
NORMAL GREETING
WHEN MEETING
SOMEONE?
WIENER
SCHNITZEL IS
THE NATIONAL
DISH OF WHICH
COUNTRY?
WHAT IS THE CURRIED MINCE AND SAVOURY
CUSTARD DISH YOU CAN EAT IN SOUTH AFRICA?
IN WHICH
COUNTRY ARE
YOU LIKELY TO
SIP WINE WITH A
SCORPION IN IT?
ANSWERS 1. MEXICOS DAY OF THE DEAD FESTIVAL 2. 1900 3. A RAW FISH SALAD APPETISER 4. CHINA 5. AUSTRIA 6. VIETNAM 7. SPICED AND BARBECUED PORK OR
CHICKEN 8. BOBOTIE 9. ETHIOPIAN
144
WHICH
FESTIVAL
INVOLVES
OFFERINGS OF
SUGAR SKULLS
AND HUMANAND ANIMALSHAPED
BREAD?