National Geographic Traveller India - July 2016-P2P

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th

n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a

JULY 2016

Anniversary
issue

CONTENTS
Vol 5 Issue 1

TA S T E O F T R AV E L

The frenetic pace of Tokyo,


the kindness of strangers
in Kyoto: Ticking Japan
off the bucket list, one
meal at a time
By Vidya Balachander

78
Sushi and sashimi, Japan

10

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

88

GUTS AND
GLORY

A Chettinad food
pilgrimage reveals
the dramatic tale of a
community and the truth
behind its spirited cuisine
By Neha Sumitran

96

FROM FOREST
TO TABLE
In the hills of Nagaland,
life, land, and labour
are aligned with
the sourcing and
consumption of food
By Aditya Raghavan

LISOVSKAYA NATALIA / THE PICTURE PANTRY

78

UNVARNISHED
TABLES

n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a

132

104

112

104

TABLE FOR TWO

In Pondicherry, food remedies


a storm-stricken family holiday
and strengthens the bond
between a father and
a daughter
By Fabiola Monteiro

12

112

SINGAPORE
FOOD GUIDE

From cracking crustaceans to


sizzling satays, Singapore is a
delicious hotspot of Southeast
Asian cuisine. Heres our list
of must-try dishes and top
pantry picks
By Kareena Gianani
& Rumela Basu

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

120

UNDER THE
INFLUENCE

Frances best-kept secret?


On the vine-laced hillsides of
Beaujolais, drinking wine is all
celebration, zero pretence
Text by Bruce Schoenfeld
Photographs by Susan Seubert

132

COLOMBIA
IN A CUP

Amid the mountains of the


Sierra Nevada range, a new
coffee destination bears fruit
Text by Bill Fink
Photographs by
Francesco Lastrucci

CSP_PRUDEN/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (CUP), LAURI PATTERSON/E+/GETTY IMAGES (PIZZA),


OWEN FRANKEN/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (BARRELLS), RACHATA TEYPARSIT/SHUTTERSTOCK (FOOD)

120

JULY 2016 `150 VOL. 5

VOICES

4TH

ISSUE 1

ANNIVERSARY
ISSUE

24 Clan Rules

Chettinad
NOSE TO TAIL
COOKING

Japan

EVERYDAY GOURMET
TRADITIONS

26 Crew Cut

N AV I G AT E

Local Flavour

28 Sweeten your European itinerary with waffles


in Belgium
30 In the Bengal countryside, the art of making
gayna bori lives on
34 A tipsy trip to the Mexican town of Tequila
38 A fondness for Cheddar results in a journey
to Seattle
42 Cocoa hits all the sweet notes in the French
town of Bayonne

Plus

PONDICHERRY | SINGAPORE | FRANCE | NAGALAND | COLOMBIA

On The COver
This collage of images
was created by Art
Director Diviya Mehra
to highlight a variety
of elements from the
many food stories in this
anniversary issue.

48 On Foot

From Amritsar to Chennai, 12 food walks for the


insatiable traveller

54 Bookshelf

Wandering around India through four scrumptious


food books

56 The Souvenir

Six pantry essentials from Goa

58 Power of Place

Switzerlands Trmmelbach Falls is a subterranean surprise

14

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Moscows diverse heritage, cuisine, and vibrant


nightlife are now more affordable

66 History

What does a vegetarian do when travelling to a


meat-loving land?
Making a case for theplas, one of Indias most
versatile travel foods

60 48 Hours

REGULARS
18 Editors Note
20 Notebook
138 Inspire
144 Travel Quiz

The fortress of Masada in Israel rises above the


lowest point on Earth

70 Family Time

Deep in the caves of Nottingham, stories are larger


than life

74 My City

Volcanoes outnumber skyscrapers in Auckland,


New Zealand

30

XAVIER ZIMBARDO/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (DANCERS), MANJIT SINGH HOONJAN (GAYNA BORI)


COVER IMAGES: CATHERINE GLAZKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK (OLIVE OIL), LENA VETTKA/SHUTTERSTOCK (COCONUT), NATALIA HUBBERT/SHUTTERSTOCK (SHRIMP, CHOPSTICKS & HERBS), DEEP GREEN/
SHUTTERSTOCK (COFFEE), DZUJEN/SHUTTERSTOCK (SOUP), CAT_ARCH_ANGEL/SHUTTERSTOCK (CHILLIES), MACROVECTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK (THALI), REGINA JERSHOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK (LEMON),
MARINA DORMIDONTOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK (BAY LEAVES), NLD/SHUTTERSTOCK (LEMON GRASS & TAMARIND), LE PANDA/SHUTTERSTOCK (WINE GLASS), IRINA VANEEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK (COFFEE BEANS),
SHINKEVICH MARIA/SHUTTERSTOCK (RED CIRCLE), KANA_HATA/SHUTTERSTOCK (MOCHI), AREFYEVA VICTORIA/SHUTTERSTOCK (SUSHI), MICHELLE WILLIETER/GETTY IMAGES (MUSHROOMS)

60

Editor-in-Chief NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN


Deputy Editor NEHA DARA
Senior Associate Editor DIYA KOHLI
Associate Editor KAREENA GIANANI
Features Writer RUMELA BASU
Art Director DIVIYA MEHRA
Photo Editor CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI
Associate Art Director DEVANG H. MAKWANA
Senior Graphic Designer CHITTARANJAN MODHAVE
Editor, Web NEHA SUMITRAN
Assistant Editor, Web SAUMYA ANCHERI
Features Writer FABIOLA MONTEIRO
Features Writer KAMAKSHI AYYAR

NATIONAL GEOGRA PHI C TRAV EL ER U.S.


Editor In Chief, Travel Media GEORGE W. STONE
Design Director MARIANNE SEREGI
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Features Editor AMY ALIPIO
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Disclaimer All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part


without written permission is strictly prohibited. We do our best
to research and fact-check all articles but errors may creep in
inadvertently. All prices, phone numbers, and addresses are
correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. All
opinions expressed by columnists and freelance writers are their
ownand not necessarily those of National Geographic Traveller
India. We do not allow advertising to influence our editorial
choices. All maps used in the magazine, including those of India,
are for illustrative purposes only.
About us National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive
travel and authentic storytelling that inspires travel. It is about
family travel, about travel experiences, about discoveries, and
insights. Our tagline is Nobody Knows This World Better and
every story attempts to capture the essence of a place in a way
that will urge readers to create their own memorable trips, and
come back with their own amazing stories.
COPYRIGHT 2016 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PARTNERS, LLC.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER:
REGISTERED TRADEMARK MARCA REGISTRADA.

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Editors Note |

N I LOU F E R V EN KATRA M A N

CATCH EM YOUNG
daughters first trip with us was when she was
just a few months old. I believe (and hope)
that besides appreciation for the wonderful
destinations she has visited, she has also
learned that life isnt all smooth sailing;
hitches occur, plans need to be changed,
you have to adapt and make doand come
out smiling.
Ive heard people remark that travel
is wasted on children since they dont
remember much of where theyve been. The
problem with that approach is that it reduces
travel to a list of destinations when it is so

We strongly believe that


getting kids to travel
when they are young has
manifold advantages. For
starters, they learn that
the world is much wider
and bigger than the one
they inhabit every day

OUR
MISSION

Holidaying with a
ten-month-old in the
Western Ghats.

18

much more. Travel is rhythm and feeling and


nuance, a body of experiences that serves
to open the mind. Maybe your child wont
remember which temples you visited, or
even the name of the city you were in, but
the encounters they havebig and small
will mould them. If we agree that travel is as
much for the journey, of time spent together,
of the changes it creates in us, as it is about
the place, then the only memories that count
are the ones we remember.
My daughter, for instance, remembers
and talks about just two things from our trip
to Koh Samui a few years ago. One is the
awesome massages that she got while
her parents indulged similarly. The second,
which she loves to tell her friends when
Im within earshot, is about a glass-bottomed
boat trip for snorkelling, during which her
mother accidentally sat on a bunch of ripe
bananas. Twice.
My parents saved on other things to allow
us to travel with them. Ive done the same,
and Ive noticed that my daughter isnt oblivious to the value of the trips she takes. That
became clear when she recently asked if
wed buy her a laptop, and followed her
request by saying only if we still have money
to go on holidays after you buy it.
And finally, one of the greatest joys of
taking my child travelling is a self-centred
one. I find I get to see the world from a
completely different angle. For instance, Ive
been forced to notice the amazing quality
of the sand on a beach holiday instead of
the fact that the waiters took very long to
bring me my drinks. Ive seen the behaviour of orangutans from a whole different
perspective in Borneo when my daughter
zeroed in and focused on an impish tiny
tot, while I was busy watching the alpha
male. She pointed out how the little ape was
fooling around just like a human child, and I
was captivated.
So my recommendation is to travel with
children. They dont have to be your own,
they can be nieces, nephews, or friends kids.
Children absorb a variety of lessons when
they travel. A sense of direction is surely one,
as is self-confidence, and the sensitivity to
different peoples and culturesbut just as
important are the lessons we learn when we
travel with them.

National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with
amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

ANDRE MORRIS

er nose was burnt crisp. Her


feet ached from being in hiking boots six hours a day for
two weeks. But there was a
gleam in her eye. And even
though Im her mother, I felt
she was a little more grown up now than when
she had left on a Himalayan trek 15 days ago.
My ten-year-old daughter accompanied her
father on a 15-day trip into the mountains
this summer, as she has several times before,
and each time I can see she learns something
new. This time, she learned that you can push
yourself and go beyond what you think youre
capable of. Its not a lesson I have been able to
teach her myself though heaven knows how
many nagging statements I have made to that
effect. Its not something shes gathered from
her formal schooling either. This is a lesson
from the outdoors, and the reason why I think
we owe it to our kids to take them travelling
everywhere, anywhere, if we have the means.
Were a family that travels for work and
for leisure. And we strongly believe that
getting kids to travel when they are young
has manifold advantages. For starters, they
learn that the world is much wider and bigger
than the one they inhabit every day. My

Notebook |

CONNECT

@natgeotravellerindia

@NGTIndia

3,10,235

facebook.com/natgeotraveller.india

THE FIND

FOOD MATTERS

Book Nook

Served Fresh

I discovered this little 3.7x3-inch book


in the Swiss National Museum in
Zurich. Illustrated by Alois Carigiet, A
Bell for Ursli is a Swiss classic about
a brave little boy from the Engadin.
Carigiets drawings made little Ursli
and his pointy hat a household
favourite. One of the most popular
childrens books in Switzerland, it was
even made into a film. When I visited,
there was a retrospective of Carigiets

works on. Girls and boys played


dress-up, picking their outfits from the
special play areas dedicated to A Bell
for Ursli. Scenes from the film were
projected on a screen and little Urslis
in their pointy hats sat watching the
story unfold. I could hardly have left
the place without buying my own copy
and this miniature edition seemed the
perfect keepsake.
Senior Associate Editor, Diya Kohli

THE BACKSTORY

PICTURE POSTCARD

Capturing a
Crowd

Spanish Sun

People had gathered in the village to


pose for photos prior to the Fte des
Conscrits parade, says photographer
Susan Seubert, who clicked the pictures
for the story, Under the Influence, in
Beaujolais, France (page 120). Villagers
were singing, laughing, and taking off
their hats. There were professional
photographers who had been hired to
shoot the event, so I was treading on their
toes. To avoid being in the way, I got a
chair from a restaurant and stood above
everyone else. I could get clear shots, yet
not be in the way of others attending the
event. Be aware of your surroundings
and look for places to stand that would
be other than eye level. Or, make yourself
part of the scene by trying to participate.

20

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Ibiza, in my head, is synonymous with trippy clubs and sandy shores, mostly thanks
to the Vengaboys. So when my colleague (and work bestie), Kamakshi, went on a
holiday to that party island, I knew I wanted something from there. She came back
with goodies galoreincluding this lovely wooden postcard. Although she says she
didnt see any of these old-style Volkswagen camper vans there, the images were
plastered over a lot of the
souvenirs for sale and
the vehicles are available
on rent. I can imagine
sitting in a vintage bus
like this driving around
Ibiza. As for the beaches,
Kamakshi wrote, They
demand that only
Baywatch-level bodies
sunbathe there. And, the
water changes colour like
a disco floor.
Online Features Writer,
Fabiola Monteiro

T. W. COLLINS/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (FOOD)

Even the humblest of meals has the power


to connect people. How we source our
food offers keen insight into our lives.
National Geographics food blog, The
Plate, whips up sumptuous cultural stories
about what we eat and why. It uses food
to delve deeper into science and history,
and also looks at how our meals impact
the environment. Ever wondered about
how food waste could turn into a fashion
statement, the rise of miniature food, or
how food travels across the world? All
answers are now served on The Plate.
Check out www.nationalgeographic.com/
people-and-culture/food/the-plate.

Notebook |

CONNECT

NATGEOTRAVELLER.IN

ALL
NEW
WEB
SITE

A New Leaf
National Geographic Traveller
Indias website turned a new leaf
with the first monsoon showers.
Our new website is leaner, cleaner,
and packed with stories, trip
ideas, and photoessays celebrating
our breathtaking planet and its
inhabitants. Weve got inspiring
tales of hiking in the Himalayas,
bar-hopping in sunny Seville in
Spain, and wildlife safaris from
Kanha to the Kalahari Desert.
But we also have ideas for smaller
trips, quick breaks from the city
to rejuvenate the soul and shake
off the monotony of daily routines.
Dive in, and tell us what you
think by writing to web.editor@
natgeotraveller.in. Wed love to hear
your feedback, and notes from your
travels too.

W W W . N A T G E O T R A V E L L E R . I N

TRIP IDEAS

Browse by interests like Food + Drink, Culture, and Spirituality; by


landscapes like Cities, Mountains, and Ocean; or by the kind of break
youre looking for: perhaps a Road Trip or Family Time.

EDITORS PICKS

MOST POPULAR

GETAWAYS

TRAVEL TALK

Stay clued in with the News section of Travel Talk, browse through our
selection of Columns, or make the most of the travel hacks and advice
From the Experts.

The Summer Of Sharks: Swimming with


Tigers in the Bahamas
Rain Check: Off-Season Hotel Deals
When Humpback Whales Fall in Love

PHOTOS AND MORE

Our new Photo Stories section is filled with breathtaking images (plus
an all new gallery), and we also have sections dedicated to Illustrated
tales, Videos, and Podcasts.

22

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Bengaluru Getaways: Weekend Trips to


Escape the City

DRAGANCE137/SHUTTERSTOCK (TABLET), BRIAN SKERRY (SHARK)

Our Getaways section is divided into Hotels, ideal for quick breaks, Epic
Journeys, dedicated to life-changing travels, and Inspire Me, which
includes thoughtful lists to spark ideas for your next holiday.

CLA N RU L ES

Grazing
with Gusto
WHAT A VEGETARIAN DOES IN A MEAT-LOVING
LAND CHANGES WITH EACH GENERATION

ere a family of vegetarians and self-proclaimed


foodies. But apparently, we dont have a right to
be both of those things. According to some of
our gastronomically experienced non-vegetarian
foodie friends, those two are incompatible. And we are often
chastised with statements that somehow imply our food choice
is incongruous with good travel.
When we were travelling to Spain a few years ago I recall one
carnivorous friend saying: Oh, you are travelling to Madrid.
You guys are such foodies, you are going to love the boquerones
(anchovies) and the paella. This was followed by a pregnant
pause, a sympathetic look, and then the lament: Oh but you guys
are veg; what will you eat? After all, in the eyes of many of the
worlds omnivorous folks, we are mere grass eaters who will not
find anything worthwhile to graze on when travelling abroad.
The situation is even more complicated because we are a vegetarian family with a ten-year-old who is milk and nut allergic.
Some of the comments we get, when folks realize the whole picture, seem to suggest that we are going to starve when we travel.
But my family comes from a long line of vegetarians and
travellers and weve never found the two mutually exclusive.
Each generation adapts to the needs and conditions they find
themselves in. Todays world, for instance, is drastically different
from the one my grandparents encountered in 1956, when
they toured Europe with a stove and supplies so they could eat
familiar food on their 100-day road trip. Nor is it the world of
the 1960s, when my father and uncle were students in the US.
On a road trip, they devised a plan to get
a taste of Indian food in whichever town
they halted for the day. They would stop at
a phone booth on the outskirts of a town
and look through the phone directory for
Indian last names (especially Shah, Patel,
or Mehta). Cold-calling the numbers,
theyd introduce themselves as (hungry)
Indian students and hope someone would
invite them over for a home-cooked meal.
We are definitely not in the 1980s, when
flocks of Indians travelled to Europe and
America on packaged tours, accompanied
by a maharaj who would cook Indian
meals in camper vans at every stop. Now,
there are Indian restaurants all over the
world for those who want them, and
theres always the possibility of filling ones
bags with kilos of theplas and chundo as
most good Gujaratis are wont to do.
Theres another option, one that my

24

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Aditya Daftary
is a Mumbai-based radiologist
who likes to wander. While in the
city, he spends more time on his
bicycle than in his car, and hopes
that soon family vacations will
also be the same.

family and I prefer. We make a conscious effort to eat local fare


on our travels. While this has resulted in a few wilted salads and
bland pastas, I doubt the frequency of those meals is any more
than the terrible steaks and dry chicken my non-vegetarian
friends have encountered.
Before we explored Madrids food scene, we didnt know of
the vegetarian restaurant El Estragn Vegetariano, with its fantastic blend of superb ingredients and flavours. From our meal
at Mesn del Champion, I still remember the awesome mushrooms served without chorizo, and the salmorejo cordobs, an
incredible tomato-based dip that goes well with almost anything.
We learnt and loved the line Soy vegeteriano, sin carne, sin
marisco, sin jamnIm vegetarian, no meat, no seafood, no
ham. Its a great conversation starter in a restaurant! Not once
were we looked upon with disdain. In fact, this statement often
resulted in a buzz of conversation. The server would get animated, the chef would come out, and guests at adjacent tables would
pitch in to discuss options for us. Ultimately, what emerged from
the kitchens was always original, different, and mostly, it would
be a freshly made meal that tasted awesome.
Similarly, in Tokyo, we went to a French-Cambodian restaurant which we were told would serve vegetarian food. Intense
discussions with a Japanese colleague had taught us that the
Japanese word for vegetarian was bhejeterian or yasai. What ensued was an animated discussion that included the diners seated
next to us and the owners daughter, who spoke a smattering of
English. That nights spectacular meal left us totally satiated.
France proved to be a tougher nut to
crack. Most of the French restaurants
provided us with boring options until we
found a fabulous little Italian dive which
served the most divine truffle pasta. In
the small southern French village of
La Garde-Freinet, we visited the local
farmers market and picked up some of
the freshest bread, local cheeses, and
exquisite vegetables with which we rustled
up superb meals at our villa.
So, to my sympathetic meat-eating
friends I keep saying, were quite happy
exploring the world as vegetarians. It allows us to have unique conversations with
locals, brings us great stories, and adventurous meals. And hey, if youre in Spain,
try the pimientos de Padrn (fried pimiento peppers), or a shojin ryori (Buddhist
vegetarian) meal anywhere in Japanits
not grass, and you wont regret it.

IRA BERGER/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE

Voices |

Voices |

CR EW CU T

Not Without
My Theplas
MAKING A CASE FOR ONE OF INDIAS MOST
VERSATILE TRAVEL FOODS

group of Indian girls have the munchies after a


night of clubbing in Ibiza; a family from Mumbai is
visiting the London Eye for the first time when one
of the kids screams shes hungry; a pregnant German
girl in Innsbruck craves the snack she got hooked on during
an exchange trip to India. What ties these situations together?
Theplas, of course.
The much-maligned thepla is amongst Indias most prolific
travellers, accompanying hungry, intrepid Gujaratis on their
global adventures. Airports, safaris, island holidays, mountain
hikesthe thepla makes it everywhere, and for this it has its
hardiness to thank. Theplas are easy to make, pack, and go at
least a couple of days without spoiling (longer if you refrigerate
or freeze them).
And yet, the thepla is ridiculed by everyone from stand-up
comics to flight attendants. As is the good-natured, perhaps a
little over-enthusiastic traveller who carries them. As a Gujju, I
dont get it. We love to travel, we love our food and, for us, the
two go hand in hand. They go together like gathiya and jalebi,
like aamras and puri. Maybe sometimes were a little boisterous
whilst sharing food with each other. Ive known people give
Gujjus the stink eye when they accidently get elbowed in the

26

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Kamakshi Ayyar
is a Features Writer on
National Geographic Traveller
Indias web team. Shes partial
to places by the sea and desserts
in all forms. When she isnt
raving about food, shes usually
rambling on about the latest
cosmic mysteries.

head while a kaka passes bhakris to his wife seated a row behind
him on a flight. But we dont mean any harm.
And even if Kaka did wake you up, why take it out on the
thepla, that delicious upgrade on a chapati, flecked with
fenugreek (methi) leaves and sesame seeds, and seasoned with
turmeric, chilli powder, and jaggery? They can be real lifesavers, especially for Indian students abroad, as I can testify
from personal experience (I love them with butter, and sea salt
& vinegar chips). Upon receiving a care package from home, a
friend who lived in Los Angeles, subsisted on a diet of theplas
smothered in avocado and chaat masala for an entire week. He
couldnt have been happier.

A rolled-up thepla oozing the sunsetcoloured shredded mango pickle called


chundo often saves the day
There are other Gujju snacks that travel well too. On almost
every mode of transport Ive ever taken, Ive seen Gujarati
uncles and aunties open up small bags stuffed with a dazzling
array of nibblesbhakri, chivda, chakli. The minute a Gujarati
says Bhuk lageche (Im hungry), youll hear bags unzipping
and plastic rustling before someone asks Su khaso? (What
will you eat?). A colleague once told me the story of a Gujarati
travel companion who had a vanity case full of mini packets of
different chivdas that shed whip out the moment someone got
hungry. But for me, nothing trumps theplas.
I can safely say that theyve improved my travels immeasurably.
The truth is, it isnt always easy to find quick, inexpensive
vegetarian meals when youre travelling abroad. And when
language is a problem, its harder to figure out what is and isnt
vegetarian. After a point, all those dumb charades with waiters
get tiring. There are only so many bland cheese sandwiches and
soggy fries you can eat before craving something more flavourful.
A rolled-up thepla oozing the sunset-coloured shredded mango
pickle called chundo has, time and again, saved the day.
The theplas my mum packs for me have often brought goodwill from other travellers. Earlier this year, I was on a diving trip
in the Andamans. The day before returning home, I took the remaining theplas I had to the dive shop to share with the instructors and staff. When one of them tasted the pickle, he bowed his
head to me in thanks. Turns out hed never tasted chundo before.
But mostly, I carry theplas for the same reason people have
pictures of their loved ones in their wallets. So that when everything goes pear-shaped, as it often does on the road, I have
something to remind me of home, something that is at once
sweet, spicy, and just the right amount of bitter.

NAVIGATE
30

local flavour
The art of making gayna bori lives
on in the Bengal countryside

48

on foot
From Amritsar to Chennai, 12 food
walks for the insatiable traveller

74

my city
Volcanoes outnumber skyscrapers
in Auckland, New Zealand

Batter Up in Belgium
SWEETEN YOUR EUROPEAN ITINERARY WITH A TRIP TO WAFFLE COUNTRY BY JENNIFER BILLOCK
BRUSSELS The Brussels waffle, which
debuted at the 1958 Brussels Worlds
Fair, is the forefather of the popular
Belgian waffle. But they arent the
samethe Belgium capitals is more of
a snack, often covered in strawberries
and whipped cream or chocolate. The
yeast version (the one we usually get
is yeast free) is available at any waffle
stand but is best fresh off the iron
at 187-year-old Maison Dandoy on
Rue au BeurreButter Street (www.
maisondandoy.com).

delight called the Lige waffle. The


recipe, also yeast-based, is infused
with pearl sugar that forms a crispy
caramelized coating in the waffle

LIGE East of Brussels, in Belgiums


southern, French-speaking Wallonia
region, waffles lose the square shape to
become an amorphous pressed-dough

28

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

iron. Pollux, a caf off the Place de


la Cathdrale, melts a chocolate bar
right into the batter, but the plain
sugar option is just as tasty (Place de la
Cathdrale 2; +32-4223-6781).
BELGIUM-WIDE Small, buttery waffle
cookies are known by a few names
depending on the region: lukken, good
luck cookies, or nieuwjaarswafeltjes,
New Years cookies. Recipes are passed
down through family, and the treat is
traditionally served on New Years. They
look like their larger cousins on the
surface but are thin and crunchy and,
if two are put together, hold fillings
like caramel, chocolate, ice cream, or
almond paste.

JESSE WARREN/GETTY IMAGES (WAFFLE), SHUTTERSTOCK/ANNA CHELNOKOVA (WAFFLE STACK)

Topping overload near the


Grand Place in Brussels; A stack
of waffle cookies, sometimes
referred to in Belgium as lukken,
meaning luck (bottom).

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LO CA L F L AVOU R

Jewels of the Bengali Kitchen

t wasnt easy to find Gouri Ghata. I


had to walk the last mile of red earth
to her thatched mud house, set in
Mohor village among duck ponds,
bamboo groves, and spotlessly swept
yards. I was looking for Gouri because I
wanted to witness the innovative, age-old
art of making gayna bori, lentil cakes
made like delicate filigree jewellery, used
to add crunch to Bengali food.
Bori is the generic Bengali term to
describe the savoury, sun-dried pellets
made from lentil batter found in most
Bengali kitchens. They are an important
part of traditional Bengali cooking and
can be made in the shape of pyramids
or discs, ranging from tiny drops to flat
rounds, spiced or unspiced. They are

deep-fried before being added to cooked


dal and vegetables, for added texture.
However, the intricately designed
gayna bori, fit to be part of a brides
trousseau, are special. These boris
are wrought in the motifs of Bengali
jewellery (gayna). Unlike regular boris,
which are purely culinary in function,
gayna or naksha (design) boris have a
strong ornamental element that elevates
them to the level of a decorative art.
Even when I was growing up, gayna
bori was a rare treat, occasionally served
in a few homes where the families had
connections with Midnapore. It is only in
this district that the humble bori evolved
into a thing of beauty, worthy of the admiration of leading artists of the Bengal
School, like Nandalal Bose and Abanindranath Tagore. This part of Bengal, with
Gayna bori often
combines the designs
from gold ornaments
with traditional
Bengali motifs.

30

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

its fertile soil, broad rivers, and ponds


rippling with fish, is known as a hub of
extraordinary creativity. The famous
patuasstorytelling scroll painters and
singersare from here. So are the madur
makers, famed for their ability to weave
local reeds into fine mattingthe works
of master artisans resembling gossamer
veils. Perhaps its not so surprising then
that the women of this land imprinted
the humble bori with their aesthetic
sensibilities, transforming them into
exquisite pieces of edible jewellery, for
a daughters trousseau or to share with
special guests. But its an art form that is
slowly dying, and one hardly encounters
gayna bori now. It was only after months
of spreading the word amongst anyone
with links to Midnapore that I was lucky
enough to find Gouri.
My journey had started from Kolkata
at first light, crossing the Vidyasagar
Setu to get to NH6. At Kolaghat, famous
for its hilsa haul, I stopped for tea at
the sprawling Sher-E-Punjab dhaba
and motel. The drive took me through
green paddy fields, and stretches of
golden mustard. Rows of gently swaying
tuberoses and orange marigold reminded
me that Midnapore was also the
floriculture hub of Bengals plains.
Like most Bengali children of my
generation, this is the landscape of folk
tales I grew up on. It was thrilling to
travel through a countryside rich with
familiar lore, crossing the Damodar and
Rupnarayan rivers, which evoke tales
of heroism and romance. Signposts
for Tamluk were a reminder that until
medieval times, when the river changed
course, this area was a bustling port. It
was the rich traders of this area who provided inspiration for the unforgettable
characters of Chand Sadagar and Behula
in Bengali literature. Turning off the
highway towards West Midnapore, the
road narrowed into a winding, unpaved
strip between the fields from where I had
walked to Gouris home in Mohor.
Gouri told me about the process.
Gayna bori is prepared in the month
of Kartik (around October-November),

MANJIT SINGH HOONJAN

IN THE BENGAL COUNTRYSIDE RICH WITH CREATIVITY, THE ART OF


MAKING GAYNA BORI LIVES ON BY ARUNDHATI RAY

LO CA L F L AVOU R

when the monsoon is over, the air has


turned dry, and the sun is strong but
mellow. The fields of beuli dal (black
gram) are ready for harvest. Gayna boris
must be made from the first harvest
thats the best quality. The other boris
can be done through winter using
subsequent harvests.
The dal is soaked overnight, then
ground to a smooth paste on a stone
mortar and pestle. As she worked the
batter, I tentatively suggested using a
blender, but she dismissed the idea,
claiming it results in heavy, inedible
boris. Chastened, I refrained from
making any more suggestions about
kitchen gadgets.
Gouri continued talking as she
relentlessly whipped a bowl of the white
batter for the boris. I was aware of how
lucky I was, to witness this unique art
form, as the number of women who still
practice this winter activity of the Bengali
rural calendar is rapidly dwindling.
Meye jaachhe shoshur baari/shongi holo
gayna bori (Our girl is leaving for her
in-laws home; her companion is gayna
bori), she said. Thats one of the rhymes
we grew up with. It shows you how
special these boris are. But, so few homes
make them now, she added wistfully.
When Gouri was satisfied with the
consistency, one of the children fetched
a bottle of mustard oil. The dark, liquid
gold was made with produce from the
familys mustard fields and hand-pressed
at the local oil mill. Working swiftly,
Gouri lightly oiled a few steel platters,
then dusted them with a layer of white
poppy seeds (posto). Right on cue,
Srabani Majhi arrived: a young bou, or
married woman, of the neighbourhood,
who is renowned for her skill at creating
gayna shapes, and had been requested
to demonstrate this part of the process.
She tested the batter with her fingers,
pronounced it adequately beaten, and
began the magic of creating gayna boris.
A square of stiff cotton was pleated to
form a wide-mouthed cone, the narrow
end pushed into a metal nozzle, which
was cut from an old toothpaste tube.
Srabani scooped a portion of the batter
into the cloth, and began squeezing out
the paste into delicate line-drawings.
She worked quickly, with concentration,
and soon the seed-sprinkled platters
were studded with delicate motifs, as if a
brides jewellery had been laid out.
Once the batter was used up, the plates

32

The art of making gayna


bori is usually handed down
through generations of
women in rural Bengal.

and their contents were placed in the


sunniest part of the yard and we trooped
in for a delicious lunch. It included
fish from the familys pond, cooked in
mustard paste, steaming fragrant rice
from their paddy fields, and dishes
made with home-grown vegetables.
Accompanying the meal were pendants
of gayna bori from the larder, fried
crisp, lighter than any meringue, the
posto sparkling on the surface like tiny
gems and adding a wonderfully distinct
flavour. The meal ended with a glass of
fresh, creamy milk from the family cow.
By early evening, the sun-drying
gayna boris had hardened, came off the
plates easily, and were put into airtight
containers. As I left, a jar was generously
pressed into my hands.
I think it is tragic that the art of gayna
bori, like so many artisanal crafts, is
disappearing because the patterns of life
from where they emerge, and which support them, are being wiped away. Gouri
doubts her daughters or their friends will
have the desire or patience to learn the
art. Although the government is making
an effort to revive and promote gayna

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

bori with state emporia putting in orders


with village self-help groups, much more
is needed to revitalize this art.
Theres another village rhyme that
goes: Khokumoni keno bhaari/ Patey
nei je gayna bori (Why is Khukumoni
sad? Because theres no gayna bori on her
plate). I only hope Khukumoni will have
reason to smile again.
THE VITALS
Where to Buy Outlets of Biswa Bangla,
West Bengal governments chain of
high-end artisanal stores, usually stock
gayna bori during season (Nov-Apr;
approx `400 for six pieces). Stores are
located at Kolkata Airport, Dakshinapan
shopping complex, Biswa Bangla
Haat in Rajarhaat, and Bagdogra
Airport. Gayna bori is also available
at the Aurobindo Ashram outlet in
Shakespeare Sarani (`25 for six pieces).
To Use Deep-fry gayna bori until they
turn pale gold and crisp. In Bengal,
they are served as a teatime snack, or
as part of a main meal where, unlike
common boris, they are placed on the
side of the plate, or used to adorn a dish
of vegetables just before serving.

ARUNDHATI RAY

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LO CA L F L AVOU R

Agave farmers, or jimadors,


skilfully harvest the heart of
the blue agave plant, which
looks like a giant pineapple,
to prepare tequila.

Bottoms Up in Mexico

his ones got nice legs,


my companion Marc
announced, holding
a snifter containing a
few gold-hued ounces of Jose Cuervos
Reserva de la Familia tequila up to a
lamp. As he swirled the concoction
around in his glass, he watched the
drops streak down the side to form new
legs. He hovered his nose above the rim,
and performed the little breathe-and-sip
ritual Id only ever seen done with wine.
Jose Cuervo, the worlds best-known
tequila, is made at La Rojea, a distillery in the Mexican town of Santiago
de Tequila, northwest of the city of
Guadalajara. Wed spent the better part
of the last hour touring the facility,
learning about the process of tequila
manufacturing, and even tasting a

34

saccharine chunk of the heart of the


agave plant, from which the liquor
towns eponymous spirit is made.
We ended our tour with a special
treat in La Rojeas chilly, subterranean
cellars. The gray stone archways and
gigantic oak barrels made the space look
more like a medieval crypt in France
than a vault full of tequila in the middle
of the Mexican desert. The half-dozen

A few shots of tequila and


a couple of margaritas later
I found myself on the train,
along with a few hundred
other tourists, most of whom
seemed to have sampled at
least as much as I had

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

of us on the tour crowded around a


long wooden table. I apprehensively
accepted my glass of the companys
special reserve tequila. Im not much of
a drinker, and on the occasions where
I do imbibe the hard stuff, I usually
make sure its diluted to the point of
near-tastelessness with ample servings
of tonic or fruit juice. Its meant for
sipping, our guide told us, but I still
held my breath before taking the glass
to my lips, expecting it to burn through
my mouth and into my oesophagus.
Instead, the oak barrel-aged tequila was
sweet and smooth, like brandy. Id have
willingly sipped through a second one.
A fermented, agave-based drink
known as pulque has been consumed in
the central part of Mexico for millennia.
Tequila, however, is a much newer

PHOTO COURTESY: JOSE CUERVO

A TIPSY TRIP TO TEQUILA TOWN BY MARGOT BIGG

LO CA L F L AVOU R

train, along with a few hundred other


tourists, most of whom seemed to have
sampled at least as much as I had. As
the train rumbled leisurely through
the desert, I stared out of the window,
watching agave farmers, or jimadors,
at work in fields.
I was on the verge of dozing off, when
a voice cried out over the loudspeaker:
Time to play La Loteria! The
traditional Mexican game, similar to
tombola, dominated the rest of our ride
to the city. Within seconds, I was given
a scorecard, a few kernels of dried corn
to use as markers, and a fresh lime
margarita that I hadnt ordered, but
was nevertheless expected to chug
down. Though Tequila was behind us,
the party clearly wasnt over.
THE VITALS
Tequila is aged in wooden barrels (top left) used previously for wine, whisky, or bourbon; A shot
of tequila is usually followed by sucking on a wedge of lime to cut its sharpness (top right).
But this is not necessary while drinking smooth, aged tequila; Besides tastings, a trip to the
distillery may also include live mariachi music and performances (bottom).

concoction; its essentially a variety


of mescal, a distilled agave drink that
gained popularity in the early 16th
century, during the Spanish Conquest.
Tequila is distinguished from other
mescals by the fact that its made only
from the blue agave varietal of the
desert succulent. Like many wines, the
appellation can only be given to spirits
made in specifically designated areas
of Mexico, most of which are in the
immediate vicinity of Tequila.
The liquor was first developed here
in 1795 by Jose Cuervos founder Don

36

Jose Antonio de Cuervo. However,


it wasnt sold commercially until the
1880s. Today, an entire tourism industry
has sprung up around the distillery.
Neighbouring producers also offer tours
and boutique hotels have popped up to
accommodate the increasing number
of visitors. In 2012, the company even
launched the Jose Cuervo Express, a
special, upscale train that transports
visitors from Guadalajara to Tequila
and back again.
A few shots of tequila and a couple of
margaritas later I found myself on this

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Orientation Santiago de Tequila


is in central Mexico. The nearest
international airport is at Guadalajara
(82 km southeast). Cost A day
tour with round-trip train ride from
Guadalajara on the Jose Cuervo
Express costs MXN1,800/`6,950
for adults and MXN1,550/`5,980
for children. Tour, drinks, lunch, and
admission to a Mexican dance show
are included in the price. Trains depart
from Guadalajara at 9 a.m. arriving at
11 a.m. Return trains depart Tequila at 6
p.m. and arrive in Guadalajara at 8 p.m.
(more details at www.mundocuervo.
com). Stay For a longer visit, staying
overnight at Solar de las nimas is
recommended (www.solardelasanimas.
com; rooms from $130/`8,650).

PHOTO COURTESY: JOSE CUERVO (BARRELS, DANCERS), JOSEF LINDAU/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES (GIRL)

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Cheese loaves (top) undergo cheddaring,


a process by which they are cut and
compressed to release excess moisture
and reduce acidity; A block of the special
Beechers Flagship Reserve cheese (bottom).

For the Love of Cheese

y gloved hands feel a trifle


wobbly. The large, crumbly,
cream-coloured loaf of
fresh cheese Im cradling
weighs only a couple of kilos, but the
thought that I have to flip it over makes
it feel like a ton. It looked easy when I
watched the professional cheesemaker
do it, but Im worried Ill make a hash
of it. I take a deep breath and flip. The
loaf lands unscathed; I flip another
and another.
Im in the glass-walled cheesemaking
kitchen of Beechers Handmade Cheese
in Seattles Pike Place Market where
Im helping make Cheddar cheese. The
process is known as cheddaring, and
involves cutting curds into loaves, then
stacking and flipping the loaves multiple
times to drain out all the whey.
For as long as I can remember,
cheese has been an integral part of my
life. The first cheese I tasted as a child

38

was probably a Cheddar from the now


shuttered Koshys department store
in Bengaluru. Since then, Ive discovered and enjoyed cheeses from
around the world, developing a special
fondness for Roquefort and Mimolette
from France, and Kapiti Kikorangi
from New Zealand.
Then, in 2013, I nibbled on a sliver of
Beechers Raw Milk Flagship cheese that
my wife brought from the U.S. and fell in
love. Creamy and nutty, with a sprinkling
of magic, it was heaven in a wedge
tasting comfortingly of home.
Its earthy flavour made me
want to learn more about this
artisanal cheesemaker, visit
their cheesemaking
facility, and sample
more of their awardwinning cheeses.
On a hot
summer

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

morning, two years and many emails


after my first taste of Beechers, Im
in the heart of Seattles Pike Place
Market all set to spend a day in
Beechers kitchens. Early for our 9 a.m.
appointment, my wife and I wander
through the market, famous for its
fresh produce and handcrafted goods.
We dawdle in front of fishmongers and
florists. Looking out between two shops,
I can see a swatch of the cerulean waters
of Elliott Bay.
The Beechers store, caf, and cheesemaking kitchen in Seattle
is a Pike Place institution
that draws both tourists and
turophiles (cheese lovers).
People line up in front, eager
to breakfast on its famous
mac and cheese
(Oprah Winfrey
counts it
among her

BLOOMBERG/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (MAN), PHOTO COURTESY: BEECHER'S CHEESE (CHEESE)

A FONDNESS FOR CHEDDAR LEADS TO A SEATTLE KITCHEN BY SANKAR RADHAKRISHNAN

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LO CA L F L AVOU R

favourite things) or grilled sandwiches.


Others peer through the glass walls of
the adjoining kitchen. We enter the
store and revel in the heavenly aromas
of sandwiches toasting on the grill and
tangy tomato soup bubbling in a pot.
That tantalising smell alone tells me
why Beechers has received so many
accolades since it opened in 2003,
including recognition at the World
Cheese Awards and the American
Cheese Societys annual awards. It has
been featured several times on popular
television programmes in the U.S.,
including The Martha Stewart Show.

Were met by Sharif Ball, the


companys head cheesemaker and
production manager in Seattle at the
time, who escorts us to a cramped office
next to the long, rectangular kitchen,
to stow our bags, wash our hands, and
change into smocks and trousers, pullon boots, arm guards, masks, and caps.
Theres a further cleansing ritual as we
pull on gloves. I feel like Im entering an
operation theatre.
The kitchen is all gleaming steel
vats, pipes, trays, and shelvesbroken
by white swathes of milk and curds.
Cheesemaking takes place here almost
24x7, beginning early in the morning,
when about 18,000 litres of chemicalfree cows milk from local dairy farms
is tested, pasteurised, and pumped
into large vats. It mixes with microbial
cultures and rennet, causing curds
and whey to form. This mixture is
repeatedly cut, stirred, and heated, and
then pumped into another vat, where
the whey is drained and cheddaring
begins. Salt is added, the curds are
packed into moulds, and loaded into
a cheese press to drain for up to 12
hours. It is then cut, vacuum-sealed,
and sent off to be aged for several
months or years.
The Seattle facility makes about 1,800
kilograms of cheese every day. Much
of it is the companys popular Flagship
Reserve; others include the buttery,

40

Beechers flagship store and kitchen at Pikes Place (top) is a Seattle institution. It offers visitors
a clear view into their cheesemaking facility (bottom) where the magical processes take place.

spicy Marco Polo with lightly milled


peppercorns, and the smoky No Woman,
infused with Jamaican jerk spices. The
Raw Milk Flagship I fell in love with
is made just a couple of times a year,
with special precautions as it involves
unpasteurised milk.
After so much time around cheese,
I cant wait to sink my teeth into a
Beechers grilled cheese sandwich in the
caf. The explosion of flavours in my
mouth with the very first bite reaffirms
why I came all this way. Seeing how
the cheese is made, I now know its the
love and care that goes into the process,
which makes it taste like home.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

THE VITALS
Visitors can watch all the action in
the cheesemaking kitchens of the
Beechers store-caf in Seattle while
enjoying a meal (1600 Pike Place; 9
a.m.-7 p.m. daily; mac and cheese
from $5/`335 and grilled cheese
sandwiches from $5.94/`400). Some
Pike Place Market tours, including
Savor Seattle, stop at Beechers for
tastings. Cafs also at Seattle-Tacoma
airport and in Bellevue city. Another
Beecher's facility is in New Yorks
Flatiron District. It occasionally offers
cheese education sessions (www.
beechershandmadecheese.com).

FATHI/AGENCJA FOTOGRAFICZNA CARO/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (STORE), PHOTO COURTESY: BEECHER'S CHEESE (WOMAN)

The Seattle facility also makes


the buttery, spicy Marco
Polo with lightly milled
peppercorns, and the smoky
No Woman, infused with
Jamaican jerk spices

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La Vie Chocolat
COCOA HITS ALL THE SWEET NOTES IN THE BASQUE TOWN OF BAYONNE, FRANCES SPIRITED
CAPITAL OF CHOCOLATE BY CEIL MILLER BOUCHET | PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN FINKE
A visit to the Atelier
du Chocolat workshop
is a history lesson in
chocolate-making followed
by tasting chocolates from
around the world.

he sweet scent of chocolate


floats on the very breeze in
Bayonne. This may surprise
visitors who find their way to
this otherwise modest Basque town
in southwestern France. It shouldnt.
Bayonne played a pivotal role in the
spread of the cocoa confection through
Europe, thanks to its proximity to
Spain, where cacao beans were first
brought by Spanish colonists upon their
return from South America.
Bayonne intrigued me on my first
visit, one long-ago August afternoon.
I arrived during the Assumption Day
festival, when flag-lined streets were
jammed with rowdy locals sporting red

42

Basque-pride neckerchiefs. Absorbed


by their celebrations, nobody returned
my smile. I felt like an interloper. But
behind Bayonnes boisterousness I
sensed a strong regional spirit, a fierce
fidelity to the towns traditions. Key
among which, Id learn, is the making
of chocolate.
So when I heard rumours of a nascent
chocolate revival in this port city at the
foot of the Pyrenees, I made plans to
return. I knew my first stop: Chocolat
Cazenave, a small shop and salon de th,
or tea room, tucked under stonework
arcades, where chocolate has been made
since 1854 and where I have just had
an epiphany.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

On my table sits a porcelain teacup


filled with thick drinking chocolate
redolent of cinnamon and vanilla and
coiffed with a dome of dense foam.
This is how chocolate was originally
consumed in France, owner MarieClaudine Maudet tells me, by melting
the bar into milk and frothing it. What I
taste is an alchemy of the highest order.
Bayonnes chocolate reputation began
in the 17th century, when Jews fleeing
the Spanish Inquisition flocked here
from Spain and Portugal, says Andy
Fisher, a transplanted New Zealander
who has become the citys chocolate
guide and is escorting me on a half-day
tasting tour of Old Bayonne. Spanish

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Chocolate shops (left) line Bayonnes Rue Port Neuf; Foam tops a cup of chocolat chaud, or hot chocolate, (right) at the chocolate shop, Cazenave.

colonists discovered drinking chocolate


in Mexico, Fisher explains as we head to
Rue Port Neuf, the pedestrian chocolate
street where many of the towns oldest chocolate makers have their shops.
Some colonists brought cacao beans
back to Spain, but the bitter cocoa powder didnt immediately please palates.
It was the addition of sweet cane
sugar and cinnamon that would vault
chocolate into a special category. Soon
Bayonne became Frances chocolateproducing capital, thanks to Jewish
savoir faire, Fisher adds. It stayed
that way until the 1800s. He steers me
toward the bright orange awning of
Maison Paris, the fashionable Chanel
of local chocolate houses. Its gleaming
array of chocolates looks too pretty to eat
but I succumb, for the sake of history,
when I learn that the chic maison was
founded in 1895 and is still owned by
the original family. My choices include
chewy Kanougas caramelsParis
ancienne specialitand chocolates
shaped like the nearby Rhune mountain.
Next we hit a more recent purveyor of
Bayonne chocolate, Puyodebat, to admire
its collection of antique hot chocolate
pots, complete with wooden frothers.
The French invented this elegant service,
Fisher notes, when hot chocolate was
all the rage at Versailles. I leave with a

44

small bag of praline craquinettes, the


chocolate-hazelnut house speciality.
By the time we reach LAtelier du
Chocolat, Im beginning to feel a bit
overwrought from the caffeine and sugar.
Still, I steel myself as shop manager
Sylvie Bernac spreads molten chocolate
on a tray in the demonstration workshop.
Would you like to taste our speciality,
made with our local hot pepper powder?
she asks me, looking up from her work.
Everything I love about Basque country
now fuses in the complex flavour of the
dark sliver she proffers. Rustic tannins
melt into subtle sweetness tinged with
the piquancy of piment dEspelette.
I express my amazement at the
sublime pairing. You know, she says,
when I am a bit down, I take a piece and
up I go! I can relate to that.
As we head back out, Fisher tells me
that LAtelier du Chocolat is just one part
of a Bayonne chocolate dynasty that includes a popular diversion: a chocolate
discovery museum, in their workshop
on the outskirts of town, with exhibits on
the history of chocolate, chocolate-making tools, and chocolates central place
in the regional culture. In other words,
chocolate heaven.
From the riverfront in Bayonnes
old town, streets sweep up to the
Cathedral of Saint Mary, looming over

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

the confluence of the Nive and Adour


Rivers. If a night could be described
as medieval, Im experiencing it. A few
people scurry home across cobblestones
slick with rain as the metal curtains of
BAYONNES HOTSPOTS FOR
RICH CHOCOLAT CHAUD
Chocolat Cazenave This chocolatier
founded in 1854 is known for its
chocolat mousseux, or frothy
chocolate, served in Limoges teacups
(www.chocolats-bayonne-cazenave.fr).
Chocolat Pascal Colourfully
decorated Chocolat Pascal transforms
a cup of hot chocolate into an
experience. Also tempting: chocolate
truffles and pralines (32 Quai
Galuperie; +33-559-529649).
Lionel Raux Chocolate comes in
many forms in this ptisserie, from
creamy chocolat chaud to macarons,
pastries, and signature Basque
gateaux (7 Rue Bernadou; +33-559593461).
Le Belzunce Squeezed into a small
storefront, cozy Belzunce dazzles with
its chocolat viennoishot chocolate
topped with whipped cream (6 Rue de
la Salie; +33-559-256650).

Navigate |

LO CA L F L AVOU R

Chocolate glaze pours from a pitcher to coat a cake at Maison Paris (top left); Bonbon banane confections fill a tray at LAtelier du Chocolat (top
right); Pirouette pastries receive final touches at Maison Paris (bottom left); Master chocolatier Denis Ortali dips balls of ganache into liquid
chocolate at Daranatz (bottom right).

cafs come creaking down. A strong


wind rips through the rues. For a traveller, hunger and thirst sometimes are
indistinguishable, in the way that biting
cold can feel like fire. Spotting the light
of a creperie, A La Bole, spilling onto
the cathedrals flank, I pause.
Of course we are still serving. Come
on in! the Amlie-like waitress says.
Since Im alone, and she is chatty, I ask
Lucie where she goes for her chocolate.
Maison Paris, she says, for boxed
chocolate as giftsthe wrapping is so
pretty, its like buying jewellery!and
Chocolat Pascal, because, you know,
NAT GEO TOUR
Explore Bayonne and other Basque sites
on the National Geographic Expedition
Culture and Cuisine From Oporto to
Basque Country. (natgeoexpeditions.
com/basquecountry; from
$7,990/`5,38,010 per person)

46

Im young and I love music, and Pascal,


the owner, is also a jazz musician. On
Saturday mornings, he has record
exchanges at his shops caf. He also
serves chocolate in many permutations,
from pralines to ganaches, truffles,
and hot chocolate in what he calls une
ambience jazzy.
The ambience is more on the stylish
side in Ptisserie Lionel Raux, a pastry
shop, chocolate maker, teahouse,
according to its signage on an elegant
corner building. By now I know that
teahouse in Bayonne means one
thing, hot chocolate, so I am prepared.
Bypassing the selection of pastries
and bonbons, I head upstairs to the
light-flooded tea room overlooking
the citys ancient market square and
order the chocolat chaud. As I stir the
scoop of creamy homemade ganache
into a tall glass of steaming milkyet
another take on the towns four-

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

centuries-old sweet traditionIm


reminded how a simple drink can build
a liquid bridge between the past and
the present.
My final epiphany is simple, as
epiphanies go: Chocolate is much more
than an indulgence in Bayonne. Its a
way of life.
ATLAS

SLOVAKIA
IA

BANGLADE
ADESH

COLOMBIA

LESOTHO

Bayonne, France
During Frances Feast of Ascension in May,
Bayonne celebrates Les Journes du
Chocolat, or Chocolate Days, when
chocolatiers set up street stalls
for free tastings and
demonstrations.

Navigate |

O N FO OT

Taste Trails
EATING THROUGH INDIA ON 12 DIVERSE FOOD WALKS BY DIYA KOHLI

Jalebis in Varanasi.

VARANASI

Holy Kachori
Religion dominates the ghats of Varanasi, but
in its streets, food reigns supreme. On a walk
through the citys ancient streets, feast on the
famous tamatar chaat and sip cold thandai
near the temples. Queue up to grab one of the
hundreds of plates of crispy kachoris being doled
out every minute. Chase it down with sweets
like the delectable malai chhenna roll. Winter
brings the exquisite seasonal delicacy of malaiyo,
crafted from milk foam and dewdrops. (www.
indiacitywalks.com; duration 3 hr; tours only on
booking; `3,500 per person; book a spot two days
in advance.)

48

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Vaishnav
thattu idli

CHENNAI

Muruku Twist
This early evening
food trail is full of
stories. Winding
through the street food
market in Sowcarpet,
one of Chennais oldest
neighbourhoods, it
includes secret recipes
and encounters with
people in the business.
Sample chaat from
different parts of India
and traditional foods
with modern tweaks,
like the flavourful
muruku sandwich.
(www.storytrails.in;
duration 2 hr; tours
at 4 p.m.; `1,500
per person; schedule
on website.)

BMD IMAGES/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (JALEBIS), PHOTO COURTESY: STORY TRAILS CHENNAI (IDLI)

n the bylanes of Indias sprawling cities,


tantalizing aromas emanate from street
kiosks, markets are a world unto themselves,
and recipes are passed down through the
generations. Discover the food history and
culinary secrets of these metropolises through
some toothsome tours.

Navigate |

O N FO OT

HYDERABAD

Biryanis and Bakes

KOLKATA

Street Joys

Slices of thenang kuruttu


(inner bark of a coconut tree).

MADURAI

Sweet Juggernaut
Madurai's food culture combines the richness of Chettinad cuisine with
eclectic street food. The city of temples is famous for its range of sweets and
meaty specialities like kothu parottas, a delicious dish of pieces of parotta
with meat, egg, and a spicy sauce. Foodies Day Outs walks also include the
citys unique drink, the jil jil jigarthanda, made with milk, ice cream, and
sarsaparilla syrup. (www.foodiesdayout.com; duration 3-3.5 hr; tours at 5.30
p.m. daily; `2,000 per person; book one week in advance.)

Kolkatas cuisine is
a hybrid of foreign
influences and local
flavours. And nowhere
is this more apparent
than on its streets.
Calcutta Walks leads
the New Market and
Around walk featuring
an assortment of
cuisines, and includes
historic eateries of
this central Kolkata
neighbourhood.
Participants get to
sample a variety of
foods from sweet
treats at a Jewish
bakery to kobiraji
cutlets from the Raj
era, kormas from the
old-world Mughlai
cabins, and kathi rolls.
(www.calcuttawalks.
com; duration 3 hr;
schedule on website;
from `2,000 per
person.)

Biryani

MYSORE

Pak a Punch

Banta soda

AMRITSAR

Lassi Town

The historic city of Amritsar is a great place to savour Punjabs produce


and magnificent flavours. Since the best food is found in little hole-in-thewall eateries, it helps to have a guide. Food Trails Indias tour winds its way
through the lanes of the Old City and offers samplings of the creamiest lassis,
flakiest kulchas, and the most mouthwatering Fish Amritsari and kebabs.
It also includes a langar at the Golden Temple. (www.foodtrailsindia.com;
duration 3 hr; tours at 7 a.m., 11 a.m., and 5 p.m., `1,200-1,500 per person;
reservations required at least one day in advance.)

50

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Mysore has lent its name to various dishes


and this food walk traces a path to eponymous
favourites like the Mysore masala dosa at Hotel
Mylari, tangy Mysore churumuri at Chaat Street
along Krishna Vilas Road, and the inimitable
Mysore pak in the sweet shops along Sayyaji
Rao Road. Along the
way, it takes in the
markets, local milk
bars, and legendary
tiffin rooms of the city.
(royalmysorewalks.
com; duration 2-2.5
hr; tours at 6.30 p.m.
daily; `1,500 per
person; book one day
Mysore pak
in advance.)

PHOTO COURTESY: FOODIES DAY OUT (PEOPLE), PHOTO COURTESY: IFTEKHAR AHSAN - [email protected] (STREET STALL),
PHOTO COURTESY: FOOD TRAILS INDIA (BOTTLES), CSP_MBAHUGUNA/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (BIRYANI), SHUTTERSTOCK (SWEET)

Street food
in Kolkata.

Hyderabad is
synonymous with
its Nizami cuisine.
Visitors usually
sample its fragrant
biryanis, buttery fruit
biscuits from Karachi
bakery, rich nihari
stews, and steaming
Irani tea. The Old
City Food Walk
offered by Detours
takes visitors on a
ramble through old
markets, traditional
bakeries, and local
food stalls, tasting
some of the best bits
along the way. (www.
detoursindia.com;
duration 3 hr; tours
at 7.30 a.m. and 5.30
p.m. daily; `2,500 per
person; book one day
in advance; transportation costs extra.)

O N FO OT

MUMBAI

Gulab jamuns

Market Day in
Matunga

Take your shopping


bag along on this
walk to stock up
on new ingredients
and flavours. Many
Tamilian Brahmin
Coffee beans
and Jain families have
made Matunga their
home, and this is reflected in the fresh produce
and ingredients available here. Stop at popular
food stores in the neighbourhood, redolent with
the aromas of freshly ground spices and coffee
beans. Finish off with tiffin and coffee at one of
Matungas many famous South Indian restaurants.
(www.mumbaimagic.com; duration 2 hr; tours at
10.30 a.m. and 5 p.m. Tues-Sun; from `1,000 per
head, varies depending on group size.)
BENGALURU

Buttery Flats

Tandoori
chicken

LUCKNOW

Kebabs and Kulfis


The tale of the onearmed kebabchi and
his melt-in-the-mouth
meaty creations is
among the many
stories that surround
food in Lucknow.
This lore is integral
to experiencing the
citys Awadhi cuisine.
Embark on a culinary
walk through the
bustling Chowk area
with Tornos. Taste the
famous Tundey Mian's
delectable kebabs,
the divine pasanda
and sheermal from
Mubeens, creamy fruit
kulfi, and Lucknowi
paan. (www.
tornosindia.com;
duration 2 hr; tours at
7.30 p.m. Mon-Wed,
Fri-Sat; `1,500 per
person; book by 3 p.m.
on day of the walk.)

52

There are food walks


ranging from a spare
parts or offal tour
around Shivaji Nagars
smoky eateries to one
that scours the halwas
and sweets of Pettah.
The Basavanagudi
Breakfast Walk
is a great way to
understand the state's
traditional breakfast
foods. Starting at
Vidyarthi Bhavan in
Gandhi Bazaar, this
purely vegetarian walk
features local treats
like spongy set dosas,
Davangere benne
or butter dosa, and
filter coffee. (www.
bengalurubyfoot.com;
vegetarian; duration
3 hr; tour at 7.30 a.m;
`600 per person;
minimum four people;
book two days in
advance.)

Dosa

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

JAIPUR

The Rich and the Red


Jaipurs culinary offerings are a reflection of the produce of this desert
area. Some are easy chaats, others are elaborate preparations based on
recipes from royal kitchens. On a tour through the Old City with Virasat
Experiences, try dahi kachori, ker sangri, a local bean and tart berry
preparation, and spicy laal maas, a mutton curry. Ease flaming taste buds
with sweet, rich ghewar, a deep fried flour disc soaked in sugar syrup.
(virasatexperiences.com; duration 3-3.5 hr; tours at noon and 5 p.m.; veg
`2,000 per person, non-veg `2,500 per person; minimum two people; book
one day in advance.)

Ramzan food stall,


Jama Masjid.

DELHI

Old Favourites
The walled city of Shahjahanabad or Old Delhi is a warren of lanes that
reflect the multicultural nature of the citys inhabitants. India City Walks
daytime food tour features a breakfast of champions, with slow-cooked
nihari or meat and bone marrow stew, or a rich and delicious bedmi puri
with aloo sabzi. On the night tour, visitors partake of Jama Masjids many
meaty delights while vegetarians can try parathas with different fillings at
Paranthewali Galli. (www.indiacitywalks.com; duration 3 hr; `2,000 per
person; schedule on website; book one day in advance.)
Note: Check websites for updated schedules of walks. Most companies
organise private or customised walks for a small additional charge.

PHOTO COURTESY: MUMBAI MAGIC (COFFEE), PHOTO COURTESY: VIRASAT TOURS (GULAB JAMUN), CHRISTOPHE BOISVIEUX/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA
(CHICKEN), IP-ZERO 03/INDIAPICTURE (MAN), PHOTO COURTESY: BENGALURU BY FOOT (DOSA)

Navigate |

Navigate |

BO O KS HEL F

The Masala Library


WANDERING AROUND INDIA THROUGH FOUR SCRUMPTIOUS FOOD BOOKS BY DIYA KOHLI
CURRY: A TALE OF COOKS AND
CONQUERORS
By Lizzie Collingham

This eye-opening book throws light


on historical journeys of food and
recipes across continents. It follows the
adaptations of different dishes as they
nimbly hop from one culture to the next:
The ubiquitous biryani went from a dish
prepared on the go for Emperor Baburs

soldiers to an elaborate part of feasts


in the later Mughal court. Collinghams
stories trace cross-cultural strands in
food like the colonial influences in Indian
dishes or the popularity of chicken tikka
masala in the U.K. As people travel or
migrate, they take with them edible
pieces of their homeland in the form of
ingredients and recipes, creating a hybrid
cuisine and culture in a new land.

KORMA, KHEER AND KISMET: FIVE


SEASONS IN OLD DELHI
By Pamela Timms

A Scotswoman goes on a journey of


discovery through Old Delhi's food
lanes. Pamela Timms walks and eats
her way through this ancient city of
businessmen, adventurers, and some
of the countrys best cooks. Through
persistence and patience, she wins
over kebabchis and halwais and
becomes both confidante and chronicler of their culinary escapades. The
result: a wonderful book that is part
travel guide, part food memoir, and
entirely mouthwatering.

This is a portrait of India through its


food. The author delves into the
history of the land, its seasonal and
often peculiar culinary traditions,
and the ingredients that appear and
disappear across the vast subcontinent.
For Chitrita Banerji, food is a mirror
to Indian society and she captures its
nuances on her journey through the
country in search of authentic cuisines.
The India that emerges through her
book is rich in flavours and teeming
with stories.
FOLLOWING FISH: TRAVELS AROUND
THE INDIAN COAST
By Samanth Subramanian

Guru Ka Langar, the community meal served at Amritsars Golden Temple, feeds approximately
75,000 people every day (top); Aslam Chicken Corner (bottom) in Old Delhis Matia Mahal area
is one of many kiosks serving an array of non-veg fare cooked in tandoors.

54

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

This book makes the reader visualise


India as a piscine map with different
fish inhabiting its vast coastline.
Visiting a handful of places on this map,
the writer weaves an unconventional
travelogue. From kappa meen curries
in Kerala toddy shops to meetings with
eccentric healers in Hyderabad who
advocate swallowing live fish to cure
asthma, each encounter encompasses
geographical, historical, environmental,
and cultural narratives. As this
satisfying journey ends on an insightful
boat trip off the coast of Gujarat, you
might just find yourself saying, So long
and thanks for all the fish.

KAY MAERITZ/LOOK/DINODIA (LANGAR), PRADEEP GAUR/MINT/GETTY IMAGES (STREET FOOD)

EATING INDIA: EXPLORING A NATIONS


CUISINE
By Chitrita Banerji

Navigate |

THE SOUV EN I R

Gifts from the Goan Corner


SIX PANTRY ESSENTIALS FROM THE SUNSHINE STATE BY FABIOLA MONTEIRO

BEBINCA

FENI

CHORIZO

Loaded with egg yolks, coconut milk, and


sugar, its easy to identify this decadent
Portuguese-inspired dessert because of its
layers. A bebinca can have from seven to 17
(or more) layersdepending on the time
and ingredients at hand. Because its baked
a layer at a time, it can take up to eight
hours to make. While the basic ingredients
stay the same, there are slight variations
in flavour across Goa. Simonias bakery in
Porvorim makes great bebinca and a block
costs around `150.

This potent local brew comes with


a pungent aroma and its very own
Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Feni is
distilled from either coconut or cashew.
Though cashew was introduced to the
region by the Portuguese from its colonies
in Brazil, feni is distinctly Goan. The
90-proof liquor is best consumed on the
rocks or with soda, with a dash of lime and
salt. Prices vary by brand and can go as low
as `65 a litre; Cazulo at `450 for 750 ml is
a good premium option.

Reminiscent of rosaries, Goan chorizo are


plump beads of spicy pork strung together
in a chain. Chorizo-pao (hot buns stuffed
with the pungent sausage) disappears from
local bakery counters quicker than you can
say Hail Mary. A hearty Sunday lunch in a
typical Goan home often comprises chorizo
cooked with hunks of potato and onion,
and served with pao or pulao. It is best to
buy them from the local women at Mapusa,
Madgaon, or Panjim markets. Prices vary,
starting at `150 for 200 gm.

PAO

SOLAM

RECHEADO MASALA

The poders or breadmakers of Goa sell


their freshly baked bread from giant
baskets attached to their bicycles. Theres
a lot to choose fromthe scissor-like
katreancho-pao, the bangle-shaped
kankonn, and my favourite, the flat and
thick bran poyie. Stock up on about a dozen
of these and store them in a freezer back
home. Pop a few in the microwave for a
short warm-up, and your quiet morning
with coffee and fried eggs may as well be in
Goa. Prices start from `2 per pao.

Derived from the dried peels of seasonal


fruits like kokum or mango, solam
(pronounced sola) packs a tart punch.
The fruit peels are soaked in the fruits
juice, salted, and dried in the sun. Solkadi,
a cooling drink served at the end of
Malvani meals combines kokum solam
with coconut milk, green chillies, salt, and
mustard seeds. In Goa, mango solam adds
a distinct flavour to fish curries. Available
at neighbourhood grocers for around `30
per 100 gm.

The star ingredient of the Goan-style


stuffed fried mackerel is recheado masala.
Recheio translates to filling in both
Portuguese and Konkani, and the fish is
slathered with the bright red spice mix
before frying. The masala is a finely ground
paste of dried chillies, garlic, ginger, turmeric, pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cumin,
salt, and sugar with a generous splash of
vinegar. While locals swear by their homemade masala, Karmas is a good brand to
look out for. A 200 gm packet costs `65.

56

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI (CHORIZO, SOLAM, RECHEADO MASALA), JANHAVI WELINKAR (BEBINCA),


GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (FENI), SIDDHARTH SUMITRAN (PAO)

Goas culinary scene holds more than the divine promise of platefuls of the freshest catch from the sea.
Sure, get your fill of fish-curry-rice from roadside eateries and local brews in buzzing little tavernas,
but also stop by a grocery store to stock up on the states best souvenirsof the edible kind.

Navigate |

POWER O F PL AC E

The Trmmelbach Falls carry


nearly 20,000 tons of rock and
scree down from the glacier each
year, which contributes to the
loud, thundering sound it makes.

Rumble in the Mountain


A SUBTERRANEAN SURPRISE IN SWITZERLANDS VALLEY OF WATERFALLS BY NEHA DARA

58

up through the soles of my shoes, and


into my body. I can hear it too, a mad
whooshing and churning all around us.
Exiting the lift, I go on to a series
of tunnels and narrow staircases cut
into the rock, leading to platforms and
lookouts that reveal the ten cascades of
Trmmelbach Falls. Each offers a powerful sight: a cascade from above, the side
view of a corkscrew-shaped one, and the
overwhelming volume of water of a third,
as you stand below it. They carry the
meltwaters of glaciers from around the
Eiger, Mnch, and Jungfrau mountains
nearly 20,000 litres every second.
Visitors halt to take photos, kneeling
and bending in their attempt to capture
the size of the falls. I hang back and
linger, awed by the shapes and designs
the water has wrought in the rock.
Im dazzled by the tenacity of little
flowers and shrubs gripping these
rocks, growing sturdily despite the fact
that sunlight only trickles in through
gaps and skylights. When we leave the

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

mountain and emerge into the sunlight,


I can still feel the cool mist clinging
to my clothes, and the sight of the
thunderous falls, clinging to my mind.
THE VITALS
Trmmelbach Falls is located in
Switzerlands Lauterbrunnen Valley,
about 16 km south of Interlaken.
Getting There Trains run between
Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen every 30
minutes. From the station a bus takes
visitors to the entrance to the waterfalls
(3 km). The journey from Interlaken
takes about 40 minutes (train+bus
tickets adults CHF11.20/`762; children
under 16 CHF5.60/`381). Open 9 a.m.5 p.m. April-November; 8.30 a.m.6 p.m. in peak summer July-August.
Waterfall entry Adults CHF11/`748;
children CHF4/`272. Need to Know
Wear a waterproof jacket and shoes
with a good grip as the paths inside the
mountain are wet and slippery (www.
truemmelbachfaelle.ch/e).

SANJAY AUSTA

he rock is cool and smooth,


shaped by millennia of fastflowing water. Looking
out through a convenient
peephole, I see the gushing water falling
powerfully a few feet away from me. I
can feel a rumble in my chest. A fine
mist covers my skin and clothes.
Were at Trmmelbach Falls in
Switzerlands Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Lauterbrunnen is also known as the
valley of the 72 falls, and as we drive
up from Interlaken, we can see some
of them in the distance. But the one
were visiting is unique. Trmmelbach
is a subterranean waterfall, Europes
largest, a majority of it located inside
a mountain. Its accessed by a lift that
takes visitors underground. One minute
were standing in the bright sunshine of
a European summer day, and the next,
were shivering inside a dark cavern
lit by lamps that cast eerie dancing
shadows. I can feel the water before I
see it. A vibration runs through the rock,

Navigate |

4 8 HOU RS

Red Square has been a hub of activity


for Moscow over the ages, initially
serving as a market place, an arena
for political meetings, and now as a
space for festivals and celebrations.

The Red Heart


MOSCOWS DIVERSE HERITAGE, CUISINE, AND VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE,
NOW MORE AFFORDABLE BY KALYANI PRASHER

CRIMSON TIDE

All the photos Id seen and descriptions


Id heard didnt quite prepare me for
the imposing architectural beauty of
Moscows Red Square and surrounding areas. However, I caught my first

60

glimpse of the glory of Russian Revival


architecture in the heart of the city at
Manezhnaya Square, which connects
Red Square with downtown Moscow. On
one end of Red Square is the large and
splendorous State Historical Museum,
in a deep, rich Moscow red brick (www.
shm.ru/en; open Mon, Wed, Thur, Sun
10 a.m.-6 p.m, last ticket 5.30 p.m.;
Fri-Sat 10 a.m.-9 p.m., last ticket 8 p.m.;
RUB350/`354). Alexander Garden and
the entrance to the Kremlin is here
as well.
A few steps north, along the main
street of Tverskaya, passing under a
bridge, I was once again surrounded
by beautiful red. The crimson towers
of the Kremlin, a sprawling fortified
complex with palaces and cathedrals,
spiral as high as 62 feet towards the sky.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Its bulky walls, some 21 feet thick, line


one side of the square. The blue, yellow,
and green domes of St. Basils Cathedral
built in the typical Eastern Orthodox
ATLAS

SLOVAKIA
IA

BANGLADE
ADESH

COLOMBIA

LESOTHO

Moscow, Russia
Moscows metro has nearly 200 stations,
with 44 of them listed as cultural
heritage sites. The system transports
at least nine million people
each weekday.

TANATAT PONGPHILBOOL, THAILAND/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES

ussia is a country that has


always fascinated me because
of its turbulent history, longstanding tradition of art and
politics, and its many representations in
fiction. Over time, it became larger than
life in my mind and I started mixing
it up with some fabled land. In 2014,
when the value of the rouble dropped
dramatically, Russia seemed accessible
to me. Last year, I took advantage of an
opportunity that arose and finally made
my way to Moscow.

4 8 HOU RS

Assumption Cathedral has five golden domes and its interiors are covered with elaborate frescoes (left); The Bolshoi Theatre (top right) has
played an important role in the history of Russias performing arts scene and celebrates its 240th anniversary in 2016; Matryoshka dolls (bottom
right) were first made in 1890 at the Abramtsevo artists colony located north of Moscow, which is a lovely day trip from the city.

architectural style stand out, looking


fairy-tale-like besides the formidable
red buildings. During winter, theres
an ice-skating rink built right in the
middle of Red Square. So when you
fall on your back, as most first-timers
will, you can stare at the motionless
beauty around. (www.kreml.ru/en-Us/
museums-moscow-kremlin; open daily
10 p.m.-5 p.m. except Thursday; entry
from RUB287/`290; children under 16
free; skating rink open 30 November9 March; free except Friday 4-10 p.m.
and weekends/holidays; costs at www.
gum.ru/en/projects/rink.)
Inside the Kremlin is a world of
wonders, with sprawling gardens and
magnificent buildings, including Putins
official workplace. You could easily
spend all your time in Moscow between
Red Square and the Kremlin complex,
visiting its museums and admiring its
Russian Orthodox cathedrals of which
the Cathedral of the Annunciation is

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one of the most beautiful. With walls


covered with frescoes dating to the
17th century, it is like walking inside
a painting.
SOUL WARMERS

Moscow has many food options, and


I strongly recommend that visitors
indulge in local food. LavkaLavka,
on Petrovka street, is a farm-to-table
restaurant that is also a design-lovers
delight. Here, you can get rustic
Russian food such as fish pies and
sbiten, which is a hot winter drink. The
decor incorporates lots of warm wood
brightened by lanterns made of red milk
cans. In this place full of design quirks
and hipster cool, my glass of wine cost
only RUB195/`197 and a meal for two
costs as little as RUB1,150/`1,160. The
food store outside has a heady array of
cheeses, meats, pickles, and preserves.
The Camembert-like artisanal cheese I
brought back was delicious and I ate it

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

with walnuts (restoran.lavkalavka.com;


RUB575/`581 for 250 gm).
Another fabulous dining experience
is to be had at the White Rabbit,
celebrity chef Vladimir Mukhins rooftop
restaurant that broke into the Worlds
50 Best Restaurants at number 23
in 2015 (whiterabbitmoscow.ru/en;
Smolenskaya Square; book in advance;).
The 12-course tasting menu at this Alice
in Wonderland-themed restaurant was
priced at about RUB8,000/`8,200
per headbefore the rouble dropped
in value, this would have meant about
`35,000and I went for it. The meal
included unforgettable preparations and
presentations: caviar on biscuits lying on
solid rocks of pink salt; red mullet with
pickled bamboo; calf sweetbreads and
deconstructed liquid grapes, and many
other delights. Not everything was fancy,
but it was uniformly good.
Another lovely spot in the centre of
town is Caf Pushkin, which feels like

ALVARO LEIVA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (CATHEDRAL), ADEA/G. SIOEN/UNIVERSAL IAMEGS GROUP NORTH AMERICA LLC/DEAGOSTINI/ALAMY/
INDIAPICTURE (THEATRE), RISHIRAJ AHUJA (DOLLS)

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4 8 HOU RS

an exclusive members only club from


the 1820s, with old-world wood decor,
stiff upper lipped waiters, and silver
cutlery. My typical Russian breakfast
comprised pumpkin porridge, baked
milk, which tasted like cheesecake, and
kefir, a fermented milk drink. One of my
favourite Moscow memories was sitting
on the cafs terrace under the glass roof
topped by entwined creepers, sipping a
strong coffee (cafe-pushkin.ru/en; about
RUB1,150/`1,160 for a full breakfast).
With all this fare available at
affordable prices, for the first time I felt
empowered as a spender in Europe.
From preserved apples or pickled
cucumbers at the Danilovsky food
market to pelmeni (Russian dumplings)
and fish or meat pies at a caf, you
can eat heartily in Moscow for about
RUB690/`698 for two.
BROWSE AND PICK
GUM is a shopping mall on the Red

Square that could be mistaken for a


monument (gum.ru/en). GUMs facade is
lit up year-round with decorations even
more spectacular around Christmas.
Inside, you can find everything from
clothes to curios, vodka to chocolates.
Definitely stop at the quirky art gallery
and store Shaltai-Boltai (shaltaiboltai.ru), for cat cushions, fun art
prints, mugs, and more (prices from
RUB115/`116 to several thousand
roubles). At the general store Respublika,
I found beautiful souvenirs made by
the company Heart of Moscow ( from
RUB122/`123; heartofmoscow.ru/en),

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Ornate stations (top left) with vaulted ceilings and chandeliers make a trip on Moscow metros
much more than a commute; Local food stalls often serve a variety of grilled meat kebabs called
shashlik (top right); Apart from the iconic St. Basils (bottom) there are other famous cathdrals in
the Kremlin complex clustered around the nearby the Sobornaya or Cathedral Square.

and at the Zhostovo, boutique lacquer


trays and plates with bright, folk-style
floral paintings (small plate about
RUB690/`698).
VIEW FROM THE WING

Dont return from Moscow without


visiting the Bolshoi Theatre. The theatre
building opened in 1856, and has seen
many renovations over the years, the
last one in 2011. Take a guided tour
of the lavish neoclassical architecture
and fascinating interiors and spend at
least an hour inside, going from room
to ornately crafted room, ending at the

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

stunning auditorium. To catch a ballet


performance bookings can be made
online (bolshoi.ru/en; tickets from
RUB1,500/`1,515; hour-long theatre
tours Mon, Wed, Fri RUB1,300/`1,315).
On my last night in Moscow, I had
drinks at O2 Lounge, the rooftop bar
of the Ritz-Carlton Moscow, which
has, undisputedly, the best view of the
Kremlin and Red Square. Walking onto
the terrace to take in the view, I stood
gaping at the length of this marvellous
old fortress, lit up against the night
sky. At that moment I felt lucky to be
in Moscow.

RISHIRAJ AHUJA (STATION & FOOD), UTE GRABOWSKY/CONTRIBUTOR/PHOTOTHEK/GETTY IMAGES (CATHEDRAL)

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HI STO RY

Fortress of Myth
and Memory
THE ANCIENT BASTION OF MASADA RISES ABOVE THE LOWEST PLACE ON EARTH BY DIYA KOHLI

he fortress of Masada emerges


like a mirage out of the
Judaean Desert. A moment
ago we were driving on Israels
Route 31, which snakes around the
shores of the Dead Sea, the lowest land
on Earth. I was transfixed by the still,
mirror-like surface of this gigantic salt
lake, which appeared at every bend. And
then, without any warning, a dramatic
ruin from the first century B.C. filled
the horizon. Naturally protected by
its location atop a steep, flat-topped
rocky outcrop, Masada is impressive.
It is, after all, the most complete and
well-preserved architectural blueprint
of a Roman battlefield anywhere in
the world.

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Drawing up to it, I see the massive


defences of a once-mighty fortress built
by Judaean emperor Herod the Great
as a refuge and winter palace. Besides
the walls, which look like an organic
extension of the earths stony spine, the
remnants of the palace are visible from
below, jutting over the lip of the cliff.
From the cable car that takes me to
the top, I see the remnants of Roman
camps surrounding the fortress. In
A.D. 73, this area was the theatre for
an important siege of the First JewishRoman war. It is believed that this was
where 960 Jewish Sicarii rebels made a
stand against a 10,000-strong Roman
garrison. The most prominent of their
siege works include a massive ramp,

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

which is now the easiest way to approach


the fortress on foot. Laid out in front of
me are the plans of an ancient military
operation. I can almost hear the sounds
of a battle that took place here two
millennia ago.
Masada National Park is a UNESCO
World Heritage Site and includes the
entire plateau, fortress, paths, and
Roman encampments. However, it is
more than an archaeological wonder
for many Israeli Jews. It is a symbol of
the countrys nation building enterprise.
As a result, the account of the Masada
siege written by Roman historian
Josephus Flavius, has taken on mythical
proportions in the modern Israeli
narrative. According to him, it was

WALTER BIBIKOW/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA

Masada was among King Herods early forts which combined military defences with luxurious living.

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HI STO RY

here that the Sicarii fought their final


battle. Armed with basic weaponry and
fired by religious zeal, they held off the
Roman legionnaires for nearly a year,
even though the rest of Judea had fallen.
When the Romans finally breached the
fort by way of the great ramp, the Jews
committed mass suicide, choosing death
over slavery.
This act became an inspiration
for succeeding generations of Israeli
soldiers fighting for their homeland.
A travel article in the Times of Israel
once referred to Masada as a tragic
fortress in the sky, a phrase that
encapsulates the poetic view of the
fortress as a national beacon of hope.
Once a site for the swearing-in
ceremony of the Israeli Defence
Forces, it became synonymous
with the oath, Masada shall not
fall again.
As the glass-enclosed cable
car trundles to the top, I
spot tiny, hatted hikers
making their way up a
narrow trail that wraps
around the steep
mountainside. Two
paths lead to the
top: Snake Path is
a steep trek up the
eastern side, which
takes about 60 to
90 minutes to
complete; while the
Roman Path is a much

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shorter route up the western side, via


the historical siege ramp. My guide tells
me that the trek is a rite of passage for
Israeli Jews of all ages. On my way in,
I had seen scores of school children at
the entrance and many more busloads
pulling in.
Once at the top, a flat expanse of land
stretches as far as the eye can see. It is
evident why Herod, a paranoid king
tortured by rumours of plots against
him, chose this fort on a tabletop
mountain as the site for his impregnable
citadel. A genius builder, he meant to
endure the longest of sieges. Walking
around the site, one can see the remains
of 29 long rooms that once held stores
of grain, wine, and weaponry. The
numerous water cisterns, fed by wadis
around the fort, ensured a steady
supply of water. About 80-odd
years after Herods reign, it was his
foresight that helped the Sicarii hold
out against Roman forces. Large
parts of the fortress have been
carefully reconstructed, and 3D
models in different enclosures
give visitors an idea of what
the original structure looked
like. There are also wellmarked trails running
across the site, leading
from the stone quarry to
Herods grand palace, or
the Roman-style
bathhouse complex.
My attention is

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

diverted by the sound of drumbeats.


Following the sound to an enclosure, I
see a temporary stage set up amid the
ruins. Performers are re-enacting the
ancient siege accompanied by drums,
songs, wooden swords, and a generous
dose of slapstick humour, which seems
to appeal to the audience of children
and teenagers. I skulk near the back,
watching with rapt attention. Although
the performance is in Hebrew, it is
dramatic enough for me to follow the
gist. The re-enactment is in honour of a
young boys bar mitzvah ceremony, and
the family doesnt seem to mind curious
bystanders like me.
Watching the smiling faces, I imagine
that about two millennia ago, this selfsame spot would have seen a large
gathering of the Sicarii and their families. Perhaps, in the early days of
the siege when hope of a victory still
prevailed, men, women, and children
may have enjoyed such moments
of gaiety.
THE VITALS
Masada is located in the eastern part of
the Judaean Desert, about 160 km/2 hr
southeast of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. No
guides are available at the site so book
a tour to Masada and the Dead Sea
from either of these cities. Reservations
can be made online at www.masada.
org.il (+972-8-658-4207; open 8 a.m.5 p.m. Apr-Sep and 8 a.m.-4 p.m.
Oct-Mar)

NAUM CHAYER/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (ROCKS), CSP_MEOITA/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (CABLE CAR),


THE HOLLYWOOD ARCHIVE/DINODIA (PETER O'TOOLE)

Different living quarters, storage areas, and baths of Masada fort (left) are carefully reconstructed to enable visitors to visually imagine the place
and its bygone glory; The cable car (right) is a quick way up from the eastern side of the mountain, affording great views of the surrounding
Roman camps; Peter OToole (bottom) cuts a dashing figure as a Roman commander in the 1981 miniseries, Masada, based on the historic siege.

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FA M I LY TI M E

City of Caves
DEEP IN THE BOWELS OF NOTTINGHAM, STORIES ARE LARGER THAN LIFE BY SHREYA SEN-HANDLEY

he sound of falling bombs thundered around us as we huddled


in the dark. Over the roar of
explosions, we could hear the
faint whine of plane engines recreating
the horror of World War II. Our guides
voice broke in above this recorded commotion, relating tales that were funny,
sad, awesome, and gruesome too. My six
and eight-year-old children lapped it all
up with shining eyes, as we wandered
through Nottingham caves, some dating
back to the time of the dinosaurs.
In Nottingham in central England,
where we live, theres something on every
weekend with storytelling at its heart.
And if its shocking, gross-out history
my children enjoy it even more. It starts
with the fact that this atmospheric city
used to be called Snottingham. Yes,
Snottingham, after the sixth-century
Anglo-Saxon leader Snot, and not for
a preponderance of sniffle-afflicted
people. In fact, snot was the least of their
problems. The plague, a lack of toilets,

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poverty and, most of all, a legendary


predilection for rebellion ensured
that this Middle English municipality
careened from one misadventure to
another over the ages.
One sunny spring day, my kids and I
heard about all this as we explored the
bowels of Nottingham: through a small
part of a labyrinthine system of over 500
man-made sandstone caves, the largest
complex of its kind in Britain, which
extends all the way under the historical
streets. These caves were used for a
variety of purposes, from living quarters
for the poor, to tanneries and cellars.
And, as our City of Caves guide informed
us, our visit was on the anniversary of
the day, in 1941, on which hundreds of
people streamed into the caves to escape
an attack during World War II.
Nottingham, which produced lace,
literature, and bicycles, had been largely
left alone by German bombers until
then. But on that 8 May, the skies went
dark with German warplanes, which

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

carpet-bombed Nottingham, killing


and injuring hundreds. However, many
residents escaped to the air raid shelters
constructed in these millennia-old caves.
Thats where we found ourselves,
huddling in the dark while our guide
stage-whispered the story of the
Nottingham Blitz. We peered at the
propaganda posters on the wall and
examined the reproductions of gas
masks. There were small, red Mickey
Mouse ones with ears for children. We
circled an unexpectedly large artillery
shell sticking out of a rubble pile in the
adjacent cave with awe.
There were dinosaur fossils on show,
and a sand pit with a couple of them
peeking out of the ground for children
to try their hand at digging them up. We
saw a well where the cleanest water in
medieval Nottingham could be found,
alongside the most gigantic cesspit, in
which seven years worth of excreta could
be stored. Apparently, the latter was only
bothered with when it overflowed every

STEPHEN HANDLEY

A few among Nottinghams


vast subterranean labyrinth
of caves can be seen above
ground in the sandstone
outcrop beneath the castle.

FA M I LY TI M E

It is ironic that the citys iconic outlaw, Robin Hood (top left), has pride of place at Nottingham
Castle; Many of the caves were used as pub cellars (top right) to brew and store beer and other
ales; The sprawling Old Market Square (bottom) has been a meeting place for people and is the
location for local events, civic protests, royal visits, celebrations, and public mourning.

eight years, threatening the clean water


supply of the citys rich beside it!
The Dead Wall was next. Hundreds of
skeletons had been discovered behind
a mysterious medieval wall during the
ongoing excavation of Nottinghams cave
network. Tests proved they belonged
to people who died of the plague. The
disease was thought to be so infectious
that the townspeople had avoided
burying victims in the soil, for fear
of contaminating crops. More grisly
tales were to follow. We were shown
underground tanneries, where men
laboured in a pungent stew of rainwater,
human urine, and dog faeces. Our little
group of explorers wandered down Drury

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Hill, a subterranean street of slums


where Middle Englands poorest had
scooped out (sometimes with spoons)
minute homes for themselves. Here they
stayed till 1845, when the last of these
cave dwellings were abandoned at the
municipalitys orders.
Though the caves were dark, and
sometimes rocky and narrow, some
seemed quite cosy and are still used as
pub cellars. In one of the larger caverns
we sat on craggy old kegs below fairy
lights to answer a quiz on all wed seen
and done. One chamber had successively
been used as a medieval pub cellar, a
Tudor bankers vault, and then a pub
cellar again in the Industrial Age. This

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

obscure hollow in Nottinghams belly


was chosen by the rebellious Luddites
agitating against the loss of their textile
manufacturing jobs to factoriesfor
clandestine meetings. Children had
a part to play even here, as the story
suggests they stood watch overground
for the sheriff s men, and warned the
Luddites of impending danger by
dropping pebbles down into the cave.
They were never caught, and Nottingham
proudly remained a rebel city.
After a picnic lunch in the grand
square onto which we emerged, our children reminded us of this rebellious spirit
by running headlong into the fountains
there. Though sated on fresh bread,
sweet bell peppers, brie and salami; and
tired out from the kids excited postmortem chatter; we grinned, decided the
sun was too strong in Snottingham, and
jumped in after them.
THE VITALS
Hard Facts Once known as Tigguo
Cobauc or Place of Caves, Nottingham,
in central England has an extensive network of subterranean man-made caves
dating to the Dark Ages and in use until
the 1940s. About 500 have been discovered with more coming to light every
so often. Getting There The entrance
to Nottingham City of Caves is at the
upper mall level of the Broadmarsh
Shopping Centre, five minutes from
Nottingham Train Station. Entry Adults
7.95/`764; children 5.95/`572 Open
10 a.m.-5 p.m.; tours run from 10.30
a.m.-4 p.m. and last an hour. They cover
only a small part of the entire cave system. Book at www.cityofcaves.com.

STEPHEN HANDLEY (CAVE & BOY), OSCAR JOHNS/SHUTTERSTOCK (CITY)

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M Y C I TY

The Wilds of Auckland


VOLCANOES OUTNUMBER SKYSCRAPERS IN NEW ZEALANDS LARGEST CITY BY KENNEDY WARNE

Auckland is a city of
volcanoes, including
Maungawhau or Mount Eden.

74

Rangitoto, an island on Aucklands front


doorstep. The volcanoes blew up, and
then they went extinct. Not one of them
has erupted twice, but the magma field
beneath the city is still alive. Between
a hundred and a thousand years from
now, say the volcanologists, it will give
fiery birth again.
Fourteen of the citys volcanic cones
have been returned to Maori ownership.
Im not Maori, but it matters to me
that the people of the land have been
given back their ancestral peaks. Maori
named and knew all these volcanoes.
They terraced them for gardens, built
redoubts on them, fought bloody battles
to defend them. When they recount the
history of Auckland (which they know
as Tamaki MakaurauTamaki of a
hundred lovers), their words swoop like
seabirds across the many summits as
they name the cardinal points of their
tribal geography.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

I envy their connection to place. I have


lived 54 of my 57 years in this city, but I
seem to have occupied it without really
inhabiting it.
Kentuckian author Wendell Berry
says you cant know who you are until
you know where you are. What seems
ATLAS

SLOVAKIA
IA

BANGLADE
ADESH

COLOMBIA

LESOTHO

Auckland, New Zealand


Nicknamed the "City of Sails," Auckland is
a popular sailing destination. Travellers
can explore its waters in high-speed
racing boats, luxurious yachts,
or the traditional Maori
waka canoes.

LUCY G. PHOTOGRAPHY

t takes 12 minutes to walk across


Auckland at its narrowest point. Let
me elaborate. The North Island of
New Zealand, of which Auckland
is the largest city, looks like a fish with
its head pointing south. At roughly the
base of the fishs tail, two decent-size
bites have been taken out of each flank,
leaving two harbours. Central Auckland
fills the isthmus in between.
Maori dragged their canoes across
the isthmus here, on what is now known
as Portage Road. At an intersection, a
weathered plaque informs passers-by
that this kilometre-long connection
must be surely the shortest road between two seas anywhere in the world.
Theres a volcano nearby, and I climb
it. Auckland is a city of volcanoes. Fifty
of them lie within a 19-kilometre radius
of downtown. They have been erupting
for a quarter of a million years. The
most recentand the biggestwas

like stone columns and crowns that


spread like worshipping arms. In those
crowns live multitudes. Perching plants
build miniature forests in the forks of
the branches. No one knows how many
creatures live in these islands in the sky.
Ive climbed into these crowns and felt
I was in a foreign country.
Beyond the western range lies an
even wilder side to Auckland. Here
the mountains fall sharply into the
Tasman Sea. Powerful surf pounds this
coast incessantly. Most of the beaches
have black iron sand, which heats
up in summer to almost untreadable
temperatures.
But its winter, and on a windy
Saturday afternoon at Te
Henga, the surf is too big for
swimming, the undertow
too strong. I wade in as far
as I dare. I grin wildly as the
water sucks at my legs.
Im drawn to these city
fringesthe harbours,
mountains, islands, and
coastsbut Ive also learned
to look for the wild in the
cracks of the tame. Jogging

distance from my suburban home,


theres a creek that runs in a deep
valley between a commuter road and
a sprawling university campus. Few
Aucklanders know it exists, but its
become the place I go to be stitched into
the fabric of the world.
A century ago, Englishman Rudyard
Kipling commemorated Auckland in a
poem. It was the first poem I learned at
school, and, even to a child, the first line
struck a plangent chord: Last, loneliest,
loveliest, exquisite, apart.
Aucklands a grown-up city now. Like
any city its size, Auckland has money
on its mind. As if 50 volcanoes werent
a sufficient visual signature, the city
fathers decided 20 years ago
to erect a 1,000-foot-high
tower in the heart of the
commercial district.
But down by the creek,
or in the forest, or on a
wind-lashed shore, Kiplings
words still hold true. These
are places of loneliness and
loveliness, places apart.
These are the places that
hold me.

AMY TOENSING/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (BEACH), JENNY & TONY ENDERBY/GETTY IMAGES (STATUE)

important to me now is not just to be


aware of my place but to be alive to it.
So I stand on a cattle-cropped summit
and pay my respects to a 30,000-yearold mountain.
This time of yearJulysees the
rising of the star cluster, Pleiades in the
night sky. To Maori it is Matariki, the
pivot of each year. The old people often
die at Matariki. They see it as a time for
the changing of the guard. The old net
is put away, they say, and the new net
goes fishing.
I head west to the mountainous rim of
the city, the Waitakere Ranges. Logged
for its prime timber a century ago, this
24-kilometre stretch of rugged forest is
now a heritage area, criss-crossed with
trails, a green rampart between the city
and the coast.
I cycle the ridge road through thin
drifts of cloud, the forests exhalations. It
would be easy to get a crick in the neck
on this road, self-evidently named Scenic
Drive, where tree ferns lean into the
roadway and forest birds soar overhead.
A short walking track takes me to a
solitary kauri. If I had a totem tree, the
kauri would be it. Kauris have trunks

Low tide reveals a wide stretch of Piha Beachs black iron sands. Its also a city of water, overseen by Tangaroa, the Maori god of the sea (top).
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

75

IN FOCUS
96

nagaland
The synergy of food and daily life
in the mountains

104

pondicherry
Food remedies a storm-stricken
family holiday

KY CHO/SHUTTERSTOCK

88

tamil nadu
A Chettinad food pilgrimage reveals
the truth behind its spirited cuisine

78
Maruyama Park in
Kyoto, Japan.

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

77

JAPAN

Lanterns line the entrance to a


temple in Kyotos Nishiki Market,
where food devotees flock for a
different kind of pilgrimage.
Facing page: Even the simplest of
meals in Japan are prepared with
care and presented beautifully.

78

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

ARTHUR GREENBERG/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

JAPAN

UNVARNISHED TABLES

NARIN NONTHAMAND/SHUTTERSTOCK

The frenetic pace of Tokyo, the kindness of strangers in Kyoto:


Ticking Japan off the bucket list, one meal at a time

BY VIDYA BALACHANDER

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

79

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

ventured out in search of nourishment. The warmth of a red


Preoccupied with his mothers ill health, Iyer begged off the relantern hanging outside an izakaya, the Japanese version of a
quest but wished me the best for my trip. Im so glad youre going
casual gastropub, invited us in. Sitting on rickety stools around
to Kyoto he wrote, and in the same radiant season when I first
a small table, surrounded by university students, courting
discovered Japan and met my wife. Having spent my early adultcouples and salarymen sloughing off the day with cheap tipple,
hood using Iyers words to imagine worlds Id never seen, I treasit began to slowly sink in that
ured this reply like a talisman.
after a decade of dreaming,
Guided by his writing, I had
years of plotting and a sudden,
a sketch of Japan drawn in my
impulsive decision, we were
imagination; as I began my jouractually in Tokyo. As we popped
ney, little daubs of colour began
hot, steamed edamame beans
to bring this picture to life. On
silken, with a touch of saltinto
the 80-kilometre train comour mouths, followed by big
mute from Narita International
swigs of sake, I felt my disbelief
Airport to Tokyo city, I carefully
slip away into something headier.
filed away the vistas that flew past
Japan had been on my bucket
our window. We passed sloped
list long before I had a clear
roof homes, with the washing
idea of what it meant to have
laid out in backyards. This slice
one. The country floated into
of suburbia gave way to bucolic
my imagination when I was
fields lined with trees whose
an undergraduate student in
leaves were beginning to turn
Mumbai, thanks to The Lady
crimson with the colours of fall.
and the Monk: Four Seasons in
The landscapes were unique, yet
Kyoto, Iyers memoir of the two
not unfamiliar.
years he spent in Japan in the
If the calm of the countryside
late 1980s, which cemented his
and the soundless efficiency of
lifelong relationship with the
the high-speed train had lulled
country. As much a paean to the
us into a sort of stupor, we were
changing seasons in Kyoto, the
shaken awake by the sensory excity he has since called home, as
plosion of Tokyo. The exacting
it is the tender tale of how he met
efficiency of the citys subway sysand fell in love with his wife, The
tem seemed to spill over onto its
Lady and the Monk immediately
streets, where everyone walked
drew me into its lyrical yet
with the double quick pace of the
insightful depths.
purposeful. Skyscrapers loomed
Like all of Iyers work, this book
above us, their glass windows
too is grounded in philosophy.
glinting in the afternoon sun.
His exploration of Kyoto was
Even though we were, at first, beguided by the Zen maxim of living
wildered tourists navigating one
in the moment. The vivid imagery
of the most populous metropobrought to life the quiet streets
lises of the world, we soon felt
Derived from okonomi which means all you like in Japanese,
of Kyoto; fashionable young
buoyed by its brazen energy.
okonomiyaki (bottom) is a pancake that features a smattering
mothers taking their tidy wards
Later that evening, when
of vegetables, meat, and seafood; When served on chopsticks
to school and cherry blossoms
our exhaustion had ebbed, we
(top), it is called hashimaki.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

ALEXEY KOPYTKO/MOMENT/ GETTY IMAGES (SKEWERS), STEPHEN SMITH/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (PANCAKES)

A FEW MONTHS AGO, SHORTLY BEFORE MY HUSBAND VISHNU AND I EMBARKED ON


OUR FIRST TRIP TO JAPAN, I WOKE UP ONE MORNING, CHECKED MY EMAIL AND
FELT MY HEART SKIP A FEW BEATS. A DAY EARLIER, I HAD WRITTEN TO THE TRAVEL
WRITER PICO IYER, WHO HAS MADE JAPAN HIS HOME FOR NEARLY THREE DECADES
NOW, ASKING IF I COULD INTERVIEW HIM DURING MY VISIT. I HAD NOT EXPECTED A
PERSONAL AND WARMLY WORDED REPLY FROM THE MAN HIMSELF.

JAPAN

falling softly to the ground in spring. Above me, lights danced


across the hill like fireflies, wrote Iyer, and I imagined a hillside
aflame with the tiny, flickering lights of thousands of paper
lanterns during Obon, the Japanese festival of the dead. The book
shifted something within me. At the time, I had never travelled
abroad, and only had the foggiest idea of what I wanted to do
with my life, but I felt the first prickling of thirst for new places.
In Tokyo, our days were dictated by its rhythms. The city
seemed to be perennially switched on. At the neighbourhood
caf that became our breakfast joint, there was rarely a seat free,
even in the early morning hours. Office goers claimed the booths
discreetly tucked away at the back, chasing their coffees with
flaky croissants filled with sesame paste. Late into the night,
when the last of the university students were drunkenly staggering home, Cafe Cotton Club, a cheerful and eccentrically-named
restaurant near our apartment, would still be dishing out hot,
thin-crust pizzas, served unfailingly with smiles.
As a visitor, I felt a keen appreciation for the thoughtfulness
that elevated even the most routine experiences. Everyone
bowed deeply, like they meant it, for every question asked or
service rendered. Most restaurants had a glass showcase filled
with plastic replicas of dishes, so you were never at a loss when
it was time to order. And even inexpensive earrings from a
subway shop were wrapped with care, in the packaging of your
choice, with a bow on top for good measure. Twenty years later,

Iyers observations from The Lady and the Monk still rang true.
Even the poor here... could feel like dignitaries, each purchase
wrapped for them like priceless treasure.
While it was easy to be seduced by Tokyos briskness, it was
perhaps a measure of how time and travel had changed me that
I longed not for the thrill of keeping up, but for the luxury of
slowing down. While I may have once courted adventure, all I
really sought now was stillness. As much as I enjoyed the electric crackle in Tokyos air, I was looking forward to the change of
pace that I knew Kyoto would bring.
There may be no better place for quiet introspection than
this ancient birthplace of Zen Buddhism. But unlike Iyer, who
sought to find meaning in monasteries and templesa theme
that courses through the bookI knew that my wanderings
would be in the pursuit of other pleasures.
I discovered my idea of slow living in Nishiki Market, a
narrow warren of mainly food stores spread across a whole
street in Kyoto. On either side of the covered market, there
were stalls selling all manner of culinary delights: from coveted
chef knives with sharp blades and heavy, wooden handles; to
an extravaganza of funky-smelling kimchi; to fresh, warm rice
crackers coated with feisty Japanese shishito pepper; to ground
spice mixes presented as prettily as a paint palette.
Time slowed down to a delicious crawl as we walked, pausing
to explore a store dedicated solely to sesame products. Our
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TOTORORO/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES

Osakas Shinsekai area is well known for restaurants serving kushi-katsu or deep-fried vegetables and meat on skewers, and fugu or the
poisonous blowfish.

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

JAPAN

F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK

One of Osakas most famous street


foods is takoyaki, a fried ball of flour
and egg with octopus at the centre.

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83

In Focus | TASTE
TASTE O
OFF TRAV
TRAVEL
EL

Nishiki Market abounds in seasonal finds like roasted chestnuts (top); A restaurant specialising in ramen (bottom), a noodle soup that enjoys a
cult following in Japan.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

JAPAN

noses led us to a teppanyaki stand, where skewers of seafood


were being grilled. After an oddly comforting snack of savoury,
sticky rice cakes made of mochi or glutinous rice flour, paired
with sweet red bean paste, we stopped to buy some genmaicha
tea from a modest stall. The polite proprietor perked up
immediately, wielding his limited English with enthusiasm.
I went to India for honeymoon, he said, with a grin. Agra is
very beautiful place. When we asked him for directions
to a famous teahouse nearby, his face fell with
disappointment. Its late now... teahouse might
be closed. Still, hoping to locate the teahouse,
we wandered out of Nishiki Market, the helpful
stranger abandoning his store at closing time
to help us find the way. Im really sorry, he said
regretfully, I think teahouse is closed. This small
gesture of warmth stayed with me.
In a culture that prizes propriety in public, these
spontaneous interactions mattered more to me than the
blemish-free experiences that I knew I would be offered in
the Michelin-star restaurants that are sprinkled like fine salt all
over the country. It was in the open markets and humble izakayas
that I formed the most unvarnished impressions of Japan.
Often, while searching for a restaurant we had read about,
we would give up midway and dive into the nearest izakaya.
It wasnt like I wouldnt go the extra mile for exquisite sushi
but to me, it seemed like the stories lay elsewhere, shared
between people over platters of chargrilled shishito peppers
and chewy, creamy gingko nuts, in smoky bars that were rarely
written about.

It was in one such basement bar in Osaka that we made our


first Japanese friends. Eager to try okonomiyaki, the meat-andvegetable pancake that the city is famous for, we decided to ask
a group of middle-aged men, unwinding with beers after work,
for suggestions. After pondering the issue with an almost comic
seriousness, they decided that the best way to introduce us to
Osakas okonomiyaki was not by pointing to a restaurant on a
map, but to take us there, all the while apologizing profusely for their limited English. We wound up in a
tiny restaurant with three tables, the sort that no
guidebook would mention. Despite some obvious
language limitations, we successfully shared three
okonomiyaki, palm-sized pancakes made of beef,
scallions, and other toppings, soft as putty and
grilled at the table.
Racing to catch the train back to Kyoto, after a
flurry of photographs and promises to keep in touch
with our new friends, I realised that this was just the
sort of random rendezvous that fuels my wanderlust. I
had come to Japan hoping to tread Iyers path, but somewhere
along the way, I had resolutely drifted on to my own. With food
as my vocabulary and curiosity as my guide, I had forged a
unique bond with the country. Iyers words had set me afloat
in search of new worlds, all those years ago. But my own words
had oared me along.
Vidya Balachander is a food and travel writer based in Colombo,
Sri Lanka. She is continually amazed by how much you can learn
about the world through a plate of food.
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LUCAS VALLECILLOS/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (WOMEN), KONDO PHOTOGRAPHY/CULTURE/GETTY IMAGES (BOWL)


FACING PAGE: JORGE FERNNDEZ/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (SHOPKEEPER), SEAN K/SHUTTERSTOCK (RESTAURANT)

Known as Kyotos entertainment quarter, Gion (top) offers a glimpse of traditional wooden houses and geishas in kimonos; Steamed edamame
beans (below) are a much-loved snack, served inside their tender green pods.

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

TASTING ROOM

JAPANS FOOD SCENE IS FAR TOO COMPLEX AND VARIED TO FIT INTO ONE TRIPOR
EVEN TWO. WHILE THE COUNTRY TEEMS WITH MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS,
EVEN EVERYDAY EXPERIENCES ARE USUALLY OF A HIGH STANDARD. HERES A LIST OF
WHAT I TRIED AND LOVED
JAPANESE SPICE MIXES

TEMPURA

SUSHI

Tempura chefs in Japan spend


several years perfecting the
technique of making the deep-fried
yet delicate fritters. At Tokyos
Tempura Tsunahachi, each piece of
vegetable or seafood is treated with a
delicate touch and meant to be eaten
simply with flavoured salts or some
grated daikon radish dipped in soy.

In a country where even subway


sushi is surprisingly good, top-draw
sushi restaurants are nothing short
of a revelation. At Midori Sushi in
Tokyo, the lines snake well outside
the restaurant. But the wait is
made worthwhile by the expertly
assembled sushi, tightly packed with
flavour and wasabi punch. Try the
meltingly tender eel if its in season.

FRENCH PATISSERIE
The Japanese have long had a
passionate affair with French
pastry. This translates to seriously
flaky croissants with Japanese
fillings such as sesame paste and
matcha, but also elegant desserts at
homegrown patisserie chains such
as Sadaharu Aoki.

KITKAT
Dont leave Japan without trying
one of the countrys unique spins
on ubiquitous KitKat. One of my
favourites was the houjicha flavour,
with the toasty aroma of the green
tea that is roasted over charcoal.

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IZAKAYA STAPLES
Loud, smoky and casual, izakayas
offer the unique opportunity to
see the famously proper Japanese
let their guard down. Ask for sake
or umeshu (Japanese plum wine,
usually diluted with soda), and wash
it down with steamed edamame
beans or gingko nuts (pictured),
yakitori (skewers of grilled meat or
vegetables), and yakisoba or bowls of
saucy soba noodles drenched in soy.

JAPANESE WHISKY
Whisky lovers have long known that
Japan produces some exquisite
blends. One of the best places to
try a variety of Japanese whiskies is
Zoetrope, an intimate bar in Tokyos
Shinjuku district.

MOCHI
One of the more unusual items
I tried in Kyotos Nishiki Market
was a savoury mochi or glutinous
rice cake. Stretchy, toasty, and
slightly smoky, the rice cakes have
a gentle sweetness, and they are
topped with everything from cheese
and sesame to a sweet red bean
paste. Its also worthwhile trying
mochi ice cream, or sweet rice cakes
with an ice cream filling.

DEA/AF.STUDIO/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPURA), MARAZE/SHUTTERSTOCK (SUSHI), BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK (IZAKAYA), GNOPARUS/SHUTTERSTOCK (KITKAT),


JOHN LANDER/CONTRIBUTOR/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY IMAGES (MOCHI)
FACING PAGE: PHOTO JAPAN/ROBERTHARDING/DINODIA (STREET STALL), HIROYUKI TOKIA/AFLO/DINODIA (MEN), JOHN S LANDER/CONTRIBUTOR/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY
IMAGES (JARS)

Several artisanal stalls in Nishiki


Market sell spice mixes such as
shichimi togarashi, a seven-flavoured
condiment laced with chilli, sesame,
and orange peel, and others starring
yuzu (a sharp, local citrus) and
mild shishito peppers. Buy these as
souvenirs and use them to liven up
soups and salads.

Izakayas offer a glimpse of after-hours Japan, where


young professionals unwind with drinks and shared plates
of food. There are izakayas for every taste: affordable
streetside joints (top), more upmarket variants for young
professionals (bottom left), and traditional ones, some
even requiring patrons to remove their footwear and sit on
tatami mats; Available plain and in a variety of flavours, rice
crackers (bottom right) are a popular snack.
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JAPAN

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

A CHETTINAD FOOD PILGRIMAGE REVEALS THE DRAMATIC TALE


OF A COMMUNITY AND THE TRUTH BEHIND ITS SPIRITED CUISINE
BY NEHA SUMITRAN
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ALEYNIKOV PAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK (ARCHITECTURAL DETAIL), GREAT STOCK!/STOCKFOOD/DINODIA (FOOD)


FACING PAGE: AYAN GHOSH (STATUE)

&
G
S
LO
T
U
R
G

TAMIL N ADU

XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)

Madurais
towering temples
are feats of the
imagination, filled
with deities and
demons draped in
jewellery, armed
with weapons,
and often,
bearing more
limbs than usual.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

My hankering for the peppery flavours of Chettinad food


dates back to my schooling in Madras. Thanks to generous
neighbours, classmates dabbas, and a mother who is both
curious and a wonderful cook, I am well acquainted with the
powers of traditional Tamil cooking. I know, for instance, that a
good rasam delivers not just potency but also clarity of thought.
That there is no better way to start the day than with a tumbler
of filter coffee, and no better way to end it than with a steel
plate of sambhar, rice, and ghee, preferably with pappadums.
But my most treasured food memories of Madras are dinners at
Chettinad restaurants. Decades later, recollections of that feisty
mutton pepper fry flecked with curry leaves and glistening with
pure coconut oil, still make me quiver.
Geographically, Chettinad is part of the districts of Sivaganga
and Pudukkottai in Tamil Nadu, spread over some 1,500-odd
kilometres of arid scrubland. Today, the region is known for its
cotton saris, heritage hotels, and antique markets. But before
India became independent, and even before the British colonised
our ports, spices, and princely states, Chettinad was part of the
ancient Tamil Pandyan Kingdom. Its capital was Madurai.
The one thing that has remained constant from the 13th
century is the citys blistering weather. Our auto weaves
past rickety cycle rickshaws, ambassador cars, and ladies
on mopeds, hair neatly plaited and gleaming with oil. Were
headed to Amma Mess, one the citys most popular restaurants,
known for its delicious, inexpensive fare. Within minutes of
scoring a table, were faced with seven shiny steel plates piled
with food: rabbit roast, pepper quail, dosa layered with keema
and eggs, parotta mashed with mutton, a neat mound of pigeon
biryani, fish curry, and an omelette stuffed with bone marrow.
As my fianc and I lock eyes across the table like soldiers before

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battle, a waiter appears. Madam he says, smiling. Ghee?


Later that day, we meet Praveena and Mukunthan, a chatty
couple who conduct food trails, introducing travellers to
Madurais markets and lesser-known culinary gems. Within
minutes, we see the merits of walking with a local. Madurais
Old Town seems like a warren of rickety lanes, but Praveena tells
us its actually remarkably well planned. The streets are laid out
in concentric squares around the Meenakshi temple. Each has a
different focus: jewellery, flowers, spices, saris, kitchenware. The
layout instantly becomes easier to grasp.
Its past 9 p.m. but the market buzzes like a Mumbai railway
station at peak hour. Its warm and terribly crowded and yet, I
cant wipe the smile off my face. The scent of jasmine, the snatches
of Tamil, the roly-poly script on store-fronts, like a queue of
plump ladies waiting for a bus: Like an incantation, these sights
and sounds invoke long-forgotten memories. Its strange, the
things our brains choose to save. With every recollection, the
dust clears a little more, my confidence is boosted, and soon I
tentatively ask for a bottle of waterin Tamil.
As we eat our way through the market, we learn about
Madurais earliest association with food. Madurai is named
after maduram, which means nectar in Tamil, and according to
Hindu scriptures, the city was birthed when a drop of ambrosia
fell to Earth from Shivas dreadlocks. This is why God and food
are Madurais favourite pastimes, Praveena says grinning. Egged
on by our charming and enthusiastic guides, we devour ungodly
amounts of meat: chicken parottas, goats trotters, uttappam
and mutton keema, idli and fish curry.
And yet, its the vegetarian flavours that have me scribbling in
my food diary. From street carts we have slices of tender coconut
tree bark, cottonseed and jaggery payasam, and adirasam,

ASAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK

There are two reasons people visit Madurai: Meenakshi and mutton.
Meenakshi is Madurais feared and revered temple deity, the threebreasted consort of Shiva, who presides over the scorching city
from the cool, stone sanctum of the Meenakshi Amman kovil. The
temple is an arresting sight, its gopuram crowded with candycoloured angels and demons that seem crafted from fondant. Like
a gaudy, tiered confection of mythical proportions. But I am more
interested in the mutton. Madurais no-nonsense Chettinad messes,
I am told, serve every part of the goatbrain, intestine, liver, lung,
tongue, hooves, and headand I intend on sampling each one.

TAMIL N ADU

a decadent cross between a doughnut and a puff pastry thats


deep-fried in ghee. The cottonseed payasam, Mukunthan says,
helps curb respiratory disorders and was traditionally consumed
by workers in Madurais cotton mills.
Every plate of food we eat is memorable (pigeon incidentally,
tastes like gamier chicken) but its not authentic Chettinad
food, our hosts inform us. Like the many migrant communities
that moved to Madurai for work, regional cuisines too adapt to
survive, especially when theyre served in restaurants. Recipes are
tweaked for local palatesa little more oil, a little less cooking
time, maybe a dash of colourand before long they barely
resemble the original. Youll have to go to Karaikudi for the real
thing, emphasizes Mukunthan.
We round off our night with Tirunelveli halwa, a gooey, meltin-the-mouth dessert made from wheat, just the right amount
of sugar, and far too much ghee. Served warm, on a dried peepul
leaf, it is the closest thing to maduram I have tasted.
***
Oddly enough for a community that loves meat, the Chettiars
were originally vegetarians from Kanchipuram in northern Tamil
Nadu. They lived there for thousands of years before moving
to a place called Kaveripoompattinam, a small thriving Chola
port town in the marshy Kaveri delta. Here, they began trading
in plump Kaveri rice and salt from the Coromandel Coast but
before long, they were travelling with fleets to Malacca, Sumatra,
and Java. Their zeal for commerce grew, and with it, their
appetite for the Southeast Asian food they encountered on their
voyages. Seafood entered the Chettiar kitchen, and soon pots of
crab rasam were gently simmering in their handsome homes.
We get to sample these delicate flavours at The Bangala, a
boutique heritage hotel in Karaikudi. The elegant stay is run

by Mrs. Meenakshi Meyyappan, the author of the gorgeous


Chettinad cookbook, The Bangala Table, and a member of the
family that owns the property. She shuffles around its tiled
corridors in crisp cotton saris, straightening photo frames,
picking dried leaves from plants, and whispering orders to staff.
Hospitality at The Bangala is superlative, surpassed only by
its food. Our first meal here includes a delicate prawn biryani,
green pepper chutney, crab rasam, and almond halwa served
with filter-coffee ice cream. But there is also a spinach stir-fry,
beetroot raita, and a tart-sweet pumpkin curry.
Bangalas kitchen is run by two men: Sixty-something
Karuppiah, the semi-retired head cook, who spends most of his
time sipping filter coffee and tying and untying his mundu, and
middle-aged Pandey who does most of the cooking. I introduce
myself after lunch, explaining that I am here to learn about
Chettinad food. They seem amused, and I cannot tell if its
because of my wonky Tamil or my request to cook with them.
Nevertheless, Pandey graciously offers to teach me to make
pepper quail later in the day, a classic dish that he insists is
remarkably simple to prepare.
Once the afternoon heat tempers down, we explore
Karaikudis mishmash of old and new. Along its main road,
we see sari shops, stalls with brass coffee filters anointed with
vibhuti and kumkum, and garages with Hayabusa bikes on
their signboards and only mopeds to fix. Like many towns in
India, the residents of Karaikudi have a healthy love for colour:
homes are blue, pink, and orange, just like the figures on the
Meenakshi temple in Madurai. We stop by the Monday market
selling dried fish, live chickens, and local white chillies. Romba
kaaram, very spicy, the lady warns me when I buy a bag. In no
time, its 6 p.m.: time to go back for my first cooking class.
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91

AYAN GHOSH

The market of Madurais


Old Town stays open till the
wee hours of the morning,
when its aarti time.

Following the incident in Kaveripoompattinam, the


Along the black stone platform in the kitchen, staff chop
Chettiars knew they had to leave Chola territory. Recognising
onions, puree tomatoes, and peel ginger and garlic, while
the potential, the Pandyan raja from the neighbouring
Pandey, in his crisp white shirt and mundu, watches on. I feel
kingdom offered them land near his capital Madurai. It was
the heat within minutes of getting to work. My eyes water,
a fresh start the Chettiars accepted. Despite their new home
hair sticks to the side of my face, and my arms are on fire from
being landlocked, their ties with the ocean strengthened. The
the athletic stirring that preparation of the pepper masala
men embarked on long sea voyages returning with trunks of
requires. The secret to Chettiar cooking it appears, is to beat the
textiles, spices, and kitchenware. They began dealing in pearls
ingredients into submission. Mix, ma, Pandey directs when my
from the Gulf of Munnar and diamonds from Golconda, and
pace slackens, and I nod my head, silently cursing my lack of
eventually set up financing firms in Calcutta, Ceylon, and Burma.
strength. Outside, lightning courses through the sky, erratically
(Records say the Chettiars owned three million acres of Burmese
lighting up a neem tree near the kitchen window.
paddy fields by 1930.) They poured their wealth into their new
After what feels like eternity, my mentor signals me to stop.
homeland building majestic temples, mansions, and schools,
Ready, he says, giving me the thumbs-up. We add the quail,
and throwing lavish gatherings.
then a cup of hot water, and
The golden era continued, until
cover the vessel so the meat can
the Great Depression, which
cook. I set the heavy, steel ladle
ultimately led to their downfall.
down just as rain clouds burst,
Ironically, it was in Chettinad,
mixing the heady fragrance of
the region named after them,
pepper masala with the scent of
that the community adopted the
wet earth.
name they prefer: Nagarathar,
The Chettiars were happy in
people of the nagarams or
Kaveripoompattinam, loved by
urban settlements. It was also
their Chola king for the wealth
in Chettinad that meat entered
they brought to his shores. Untheir kitchens. Some say travel
til one of the rulers took a shine
thawed the Chettiars culinary
to a young Chettiar girl and extaboos. Others claim it was
pressed his desire to marry her.
simply because vegetables were
The girls parents declined but
hard to grow in the region.
the king persisted and set up a
Perhaps it was both, but once
wedding pandal. When he arit did, the Chettiar women
rived the next day, draped in
approached meat with the
gold and rubies, he found the
same efficiency their men were
house empty, save for a dog
known for in trade. It is this
tied to a pillar in the courtyard
nose-to-tail cooking philosophy
as a message to the raja. Other
that fascinates me, not only
versions of why the Chettiars
because it minimises waste
moved are even more arresting.
but also because it presents
A striking narrative claims the
the chance to sample unusual
women of the community were
textures. In traditional Chettiar
so distraught with the situakitchens, every part of the goat
tion that they killed themselves
is consumed, except for the
en masse, the night before the
teeth, which I realise when we
wedding. When dawn broke
start prepping for the thalai
over Kaveripoompattinam the
curry and the blood kootu.
following day, the blood-soaked
I am cooking with Karuppiah,
streets matched the crimson
Mrs. Meenakshi Meyappen in a traditional Chettiar home, vast and
which is vastly different from
sky. Today, the ruins of Kaverelaborately decorated in the Chettinad baroque style.
my earlier kitchen class.
ipoompattinam lie submerged
Where Pandeys movements are measured, Karuppiah prances
under the Bay of Bengal; archaeologists believe it might have
around the kitchen, flinging spices into ghee with the flair of a
been swallowed by a tsunami.
bullfighter. He laughs deeply and often, with the ease that comes
The day I hear these stories, we are cooking ratha kootu, a
from spending over 40 years with these ingredients. Im keen to
dal curry made with goats blood, and thalai maas, a dish
get cracking on the head currya first for mebut Karuppiah
made of the animals head: brains, eyeballs, tongue, and all.
says we must attend to the ratha first. We wait until the blood
We make an early trip to the butcher to score the ingredients
coagulates, then cook the near-solid block in salt water, and
we need and I spend the rest of the morning with a stack of
chop it into even cubes that look like raspberry jelly.
history books, reading up on the Chettiar community in The
Bangalas handsome living room. Between chapters, I scrutinise
This cooking class isnt as physically demanding as the last
the sepia-toned photos on the walls: solemn-faced Chettiar men
so I have time to laugh with Karuppiah and Pandey. Theres
with handsome noses and thick black eyebrows pose next to
nothing like working in the kitchen together to forge a bond
uniformed Europeans and women in silk saris.
between people, never mind if they are worlds, languages, and

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

ALEISA TYLER/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (WOMAN),


FACING PAGE: ERIC LAFFORGUE/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (KEY), NEHA SUMITRAN (UTENSILS), SIMON REDDY/SHUTTERSTOCK (CHICKEN CURRY),
LEISA TYLER/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (MEAL), VAHISHTA MISTRY (PEOPLE), CORNFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK (WOMEN)

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

TAMIL N ADU

2
3

1 The facades of most Chettinad mansions are crumbling,


but the stately homes are still filled with vintage treasures.
2 Occasionally, some of these make it to Karaikudis antique
markets. This enamel-coated kitchenware is originally from
Sweden and was once an essential part of a Chettiar brides
trousseau. 3 Contrary to popular belief, Chettinad food is not
terribly spicy. Red chillies are used frequently in the kitchen,
but for colour and flavour more than spice. 4 Lunch and dinner
at The Bangala are served on banana leaves. 5 Pandey (left)
and Karuppaiyah (right) goofing off with the writer (centre)
after a sweaty cooking class. 6 Traditional Chettiar mansions
have at least four courtyards that are usually large, tiled, and
open to sky. On festive occasions, the women of the house
decorate the floor with rangolis made with rice powder.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

generations apart. We joke about the size of the goats brain


as we make preparations for the dish. Our comfort with these
otherwise maligned bits of offal might seem grisly to some, but
to me its just plain sensible. Like using the leaves of the radish
in a salad, rather than discarding it for waste. We prepare the
base for the curry and, less than an hour later, both dishes are
slow-cooking on the steel stove.
Our final meal at Bangala is a spread befitting the
gods: Pineapple rasam, crisp-fried yam, green
banana chips, prawn biryani, pomegranate
raita tempered with mustard and curry
leaves. The food just keeps coming, each
course more fragrant and robust than
the next. We sample the blood curry
(tastes like liver), chicken Chettinad, and
shamelessly gnaw on crab pincers for
every last morsel of crabmeat.
Then, a vessel of steamy, dreamy thalai
curry arrives. The pieces arent particularly
meaty, but the gravy is exceptionally flavourful.
Throwing caution to the wind, I serve myself a
mound of rice, mutton, and ghee, with one last serving
of the chicken Chettinad and a drumstick fry, crisped in red
chilli powder and coconut oil. As we plough through the courses,
it occurs to me that these dishes and flavours are the most
authentic reflection of the communitys history, of their journey
from simple, vegetarian traders in Kanchipuram to affluent,
seafood-loving merchants who travelled the world.
When I am about to throw in the towel, Pandey arrives with
a small bowl and a big grin, while Karuppiah watches from the

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kitchen door. Its the eyeball that hes saved specially for me. I
shake his hand with my clean one, and pop the harmless looking
piece into my mouththe only part of the goat I havent yet
tasted. Its not the least bit icky as some might imagine, and
quite creamy and delicious.
Packing my bags in my room, I come across a packet of black
rice that I first encountered in a sweet pongal a few days ago.
Mrs. Meyyappan had said the rice was brought to
Tamil Nadu from Malaysia over a century ago by
a Chettiar trader who developed a fondness
for its nutty flavour. It is now grown
locally, and often on the hotels breakfast
menu. Thats another thing I love about
Chettinad cuisine: it is as much of a
revelation for vegetarians as it is for meat
eaters. I examine the rest of the stash
Ive acquired on my journey through this
region: plump Madurai chillies, enamelcoated spoons, a heavy kal chatti (stone pot),
and more packets of masala than I can use in
a year. My favourite souvenir is a cotton handloom
sari I bought from a weaver near Karaikudi. It has
neither embroidery, nor motifs, nor zari. Instead, the turmeric
yellow sari has pepper-black and chilli-red lines that meet in the
pallu to form the classic Chettinad check. A subtle memento of
Chettinads fiery cuisine and its generous people.
Neha SumitraN is National Geographic Traveller Indias perpetually
hungry Web Editor. She loves exploring food markets, and hopes
to have a farm near the mountains someday.

VAHISHTA MISTRY (PEOPLE), OLAF KRGER/IMAGEBROKER/DINODIA (FOOD)

Burma Idiyappam shop in Madurai has just one thing on the menu: pillow-soft string hoppers with a sprinkling of coconut and sugar; Breakfast in
Karaikudi (bottom) is testament to how much Tamilains love rice: string hoppers, idlis, vada, pongal, and paniyaram (like pan-fried idlis) are staples.

TAMIL N ADU

Once the heart of the Chettiar community, Kanadukathan village (top) remains hauntingly beautiful, its streets lined with mansions.

THE GUIDE

GETTING THERE & AROUND


Madurai is the closest airport to
Karaikudi. Direct flights connect Madurai
to Chennai and Bengaluru, while onestop flights operate from Mumbai, Delhi,
Kolkata, and other cities. Madurai is
a prominent station on the Southern
Railway network and well connected to
cities like Kochi, Chennai, and Hyderabad.
Private taxis (`2,000 approx) can be
hired from the airport or station to travel
to Karaikudi. Regular buses and overnight
trains run from Trichy and Chennai to
Karaikudi. To travel around the Chettinad
region its best to hire a car.
STAY
Among the Chettiar mansions that have

been converted into boutique hotels is


The Bangala in Karaikudi (www.
thebangala.com; doubles from `7,050).
It has well-appointed rooms, courteous
staff, and a swimming pool, which is ideal
for a dip after a sweaty day of exploring.
The food is fantastic. The Bangala is
open to visitors coming in just for lunch;
call in advance to make a reservation.
The nearby town of Kanadukathan
(15 km/ 30 min north of Karaikudi) has
some more heritage properties: Visalam
(www.cghearth.com/visalam;doubles
from `8,000) and Chettinadu Mansion
( www.chettinadmansion.com; doubles
from `7,300) are recommended.
EAT
In addition to the hotels listed above,
Hotel President in Karaikudi serves

delicious vegetarian fare through the


day. In Madurai, dont miss Amma
Mess, Konar Kadai, and Kumar Mess
for their memorable carnivorous fare.
Amma Mess does a fine bone marrow
omelette, fish curry, and rabbit roast;
Konar serves up the best kottu parotta
(parotta mashed with mutton) and
mutton chukka in town, and Kumar
Mess is known for its delicate biryani.
To make the most of Madurais street
food, sign up for an evening walking tour
with Foodies Day Out. Tours last about
three hours and cost `2,000 per head
for a minimum of two people, including
bottled water and all food (www.
foodiesdayout.com).

VAHISHTA MISTRY (WOMEN), DMITY KAMINSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK (MAP)

ORIENTATION
Madurai city is on the banks of the River
Vaigai in Tamil Nadu. The Chettinad
region is spread over the states
Sivaganga and Pudukottai districts.
The regions principal town is Karaikudi,
which is 87 km/2 hr east of Madurai, 450
km/8 hr southwest of Chennai, and 420
km/8 hr southeast of Bengaluru. Roads
from Chennai and Bengaluru are in good
condition.

SEASONS
The sun is always shining in Madurai
and the rest of Chettinad. The peak of
summer (March-May) is particularly
unforgiving with day temperatures often
hitting 40C. Between June and August,
the region receives light rainfall, rarely
enough to dampen travel plans. Its
warm again in October, but the weather
improves between November and early
March, when evening temperatures
hover around 25C.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

From Forest to Table


IN NAGALAND, LIFE, LAND, AND LABOUR ARE
ALIGNED WITH THE CONSUMPTION OF FOOD

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By Aditya Raghavan

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A young Yimchunger tribesman in


traditional attire at the Hornbill Festival.
Facing page: Naga cuisine features an
eclectic blend of meat, insects, seasonal
greens, and fermented berries and roots.
Woodworm larvae (top left), early-harvest
honey (top right), Naga dal (bottom left),
seasonal wild fruits (bottom right).
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97

ROB HORSEFIELD (MAN),


FACING PAGE: ADITYA RAGHAVAN (WORMS & BERRIES), PIRAN ELAVIA (HONEYCOMB & BEANS)

N AGALAN D

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

The nearly 700-year-old green


village of Khonoma is a thriving
example of a community
conservation project.

98

traces of smoking alder wood scent the cool morning air, I


look at the terraced fields that have sustained the village of
Khonoma for the past five centuries. Like the smooth curves
of a harp, the terraces hug the slopes, creating a threedimensional contour map of the terrain. Khonoma in Nagaland
is famous for having fended off various historical invaders;
most notably, it fiercely resisted the British for many years in
the 1800s. Standing on a gravelly path around the village,
which is perched on a rise, I can see the hills towering above me
to the southwest, and the circuitous route due east to Kohima.
Khonomas cleverly tucked-away location has shaped its
history, and that of the members of the Angami tribe who
live here. The terraced fields to the west of the village
are a reminder that geography has also played a big part in the
diet and food culture of the people hereindeed throughout
the valleys of Nagaland.
The unfamiliar regional cuisinesto say nothing of
crumbling roads, complicated dialects, and rudimentary
accommodationscan make the Northeast a challenging
destination for most travellers. Luckily, my friend Piran Elavia,
a city boy with years of experience in these parts, is the perfect
guide. Through his company Kipepeo, Piran bridges the cultural
gaps on his socially conscious tours, ensuring that tourists dont
become invaders either. Over the next two days, Ill visit two
tribes, the Angami in Khonoma, and the Chakhesang in the
village of Chizami, to learn about their history and, inevitably,
their food.
It is February, and the fields lie in repose, a mostly dry mosaic
of brown, with the occasional dab of green. Their custodians
meanwhile are engaged in all kinds of off-season activities,
from drying and preserving grains, to preparing new slopes for
shifting cultivation.
Khonoma village is a series of horizontal streets on a slope,
separated by steep staircases. We head back to our rickety
homestay, a recently repurposed two-storey house with low
ceilings, uneven steps, and a sweeping view of the rugged
village, whose architecture also fits the contours of the land.
Our friendly helper Rovizono has almost finished preparing
breakfast. Fresh out of college, her youthfulness is apparent

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As

ADITYA RAGHAVAN

N AGALAN D

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

4
1 Dried river fish is often
used to brighten chutneys.
2 A lunch of Naga dal with
greens, foxtail millet cooked
with yam, and wood-borer
insects. 3 Nuggets of pork
are smoked to preserve the
meat and create complex
flavours. 4 Wood borer
insects are cooked with
water, ginger, and salt and
then dehydrated till they
turn crunchy. 5 Chakhesang
farmers dry foxtail millet
to collect the seeds for future
planting. 6 A market stall
sells the Sumi tribe specialty
of smoked pork with the
fermented soya paste
of axon.
Facing page A bowl of foraged
ferns and Naga dal stew.

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N AGALAN D

I have a mounting appreciation for Naga cuisine.

Meat may be significant, but it is the bounty of wild greens, grains,

as she cheerily hums her favourite tunes. She certainly enjoys


cooking, but is looking for a teaching job here in her hometown.
Over breakfast, our conversation soon turns to the subject
of creepy-crawly foods. Rovizono informs me that she has
consumed every variety of edible insect in Nagaland. However,
when it comes to wild food, her favourite meat is porcupine.
I stare at her, bewildered by the thought of catching a porcupine, let alone the difficulty of dealing with all those quills, just
to enjoy some meat.
I look down at my relatively docile breakfast of locally grown
foxtail millet with foraged greens. Thin slices of some kind of
small orange add a pop of colour to the bowl. Biting into them, I
wince, puckering my mouth. These elfin fruits are piercingly tart,
more so than limes, but with a distinctive orangey aftertaste.
Later in the day, we head out with our local guide,
Metha Chs. As we walk to Khonomas highest
point, we get an unobstructed view of the terrace
fields. Chs tells us that between eight and 20
varietals of rice are grown every year, with the
hardiest varietals on the highest terraces.
The villagers also practise jhum, or shifting
cultivation in sections of the hills. During the
dry season, carefully chosen forested slopes are
burned and a variety of foods are grown. Once
harvested after the rains, the forest is allowed to
regenerate for about seven years before returning
to it and burning it again. Jhum fields provide
some 57 organic crops, including essential vegetables,
legumes, maize, and millet.
On our way back through the village, I continue to notice how
almost every aspect of life here is entwined with the production
or collection of food. Most of the houses have pig troughs,
elevated on stilts, outside them. There is the odd kitchen garden,
with the chubby, tapering raja mircha (king chilli), known as
bhut jolokia in Assam. I spot the occasional barn, decorated
with a motley array of animal skulls, a reminder of the hunting
traditions of the people. However, village elders have banned
hunting in Khonoma for a couple of decades in order to protect
the ecosystem, a move prompted by the hunting of 300 Blyths
tragopans, a vulnerable pheasant species, in a single season in
the mid 1990s.
I also notice grains laid out to dry, baskets of ferns freshly
picked from the forest, and giant pomelos hanging precariously
from the branches of a tree. As we reach the house, I feel the
tiredness in my legs from the climb, and realise Im very hungry.
On cue, Rovizono pulls out a packet of flabby pieces of pork belly. My mouth waters; before coming to Nagaland, smoked pork

was the dish I had most eagerly anticipated eating. This meat
has been smoked and dried for two weeks by Rovizonos uncle.
Rovizono now cooks the pork belly in water, with crushed, dried
king chilli, and fermented bamboo shoots. As the meat cooks,
the fat slowly melts into the liquid. Once the pork is almost
cooked, the water is allowed to boil off, leaving behind a red-hot
emulsion of fat. The pork is paired with local red rice, a rustic
minimalism that seems appropriate to my surroundings. As we
eat, smoke from the recently extinguished pit slowly cures pieces
of meat that have been hanging on cane twine a few feet above it,
perhaps for months, drying away.
For dessert, we cut into some citron-like fruits that locals simply
call nimbu. These ovate fruits are incredibly fragrant, almost
artificially so, reminding me of lemon-flavoured Fruittella. As
Rovizono discards the rind, I think what a great garnish it would
make for a freshly poured gin martini. The fruits thick pith
is mildly sweet, with a bitter edge, but the pulp is dry,
nearly tasteless, with the hint of mosambi.
The next day, we set off towards the jhum
fields, before heading to Chizami. Our Maruti
800 rattles through a thick forest, past a wild
apple orchard, before arriving at a clearing
obscured by plumes of smoke. Standing on
a smoking jhum field, I look at the charcoal
scenery, interrupted by alder stumps all around.
Alder is used for firewood, and the trees are not
completely cut down (logging is actually banned
here), but reduced to tall stumps from which new
saplings eventually grow. According to researchers,
this ensures a steady source of firewood while the
deep, old roots have the additional benefit of fixing
atmospheric nitrogen into the dirt, and controlling soil drainage.
The journey from Khonoma to Chizami is four hours of lows
and highs, smooth stretches that give way to loose gravel. The
temperature drops as we climb to Pfutsero, the highest town in
Nagaland at 2,133 metres. While descending, the road meanders through dense forests, with steep, terraced slopes soaring
above the valley. Every hamlet has its own church, which usually
stands on an accessible plateau.
We finally arrive in Chizami, at the campus of the
Northeast Network (NEN), a non-profit organisation that will
accommodate us in its guesthouse. The NEN primarily focuses
on womens rights. Some of its primary goals are to increase
womens participation in the management of local resources
and uphold indigenous practices, which often overlap with seed
security, agro-biodiversity, and sustainable farming. Visitors like
us help offset their costs.
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101

PIRAN ELAVIA (BOWL),


FACING PAGE: PIRAN ELAVIA (PLATE, HAND & FOXTAIL MILLET), ROB HORSEFIELD (FISH & WOMEN), ADITYA RAGHAVAN (PORK)

legumes, and fermented ingredients that people truly eat to live

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

The NENs local programme coordinator, Seno Tsuhah, tells us


that this village of 500 families grows over 30 varieties of rice and
many varieties of millet, including eight kinds of foxtail millet.
Rice and other irrigated crops depend heavily on rainfall, and
part of NENs work involves promoting the use of local, droughtresistant millets to compensate for losses during dry years.
Chizami is remote, and living completely off the land is essential here. The structures of habitation are familiar, but the
spirit of this town seems hardier. The men and women work
long hours, carrying heavy wood up and down craggy slopes,
preparing fields for the next sowing, or foraging seasonal ferns
and other greens from the forest. Every effort is towards aligning life to the routine dictated by the sun. In December, after
the paddy is harvested, women actually wade through the wet
fields at night, collecting grasshoppers in their cane baskets.
This unintentionally cultivated, extra source of nourishment is
definitely not something found in places where monoculture
and fertilizer-driven farming are the norm.
In preparation for supper we go out to pick some wild cabbage. Our helpers, Vitsino and Neitshope, introduce us to this
strange looking plant that looks like a short papaya tree from
a distance. Up-close, I notice the thick, kale-like leaves on the
crown. Why have I never seen such a weird cabbage tree
before? People keep casually tossing around common names
like nimbu and cabbage for produce that bears no resemblance
to the versions Ive seen at vegetable shops. From one meal to

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the next, Ive begun to see how the variety and abundance of
food growing here influences taste. The ethos of the cooking is
simple. Complexity comes in through the flavours and textures,
which vary according to season.
Tonight, were cooking Naga dal, a local legume that looks a bit
like black-eyed peas, soured with a local fruit called meztshe, to
go with our wild cabbage. Meztshe is a wild stone fruit from the
mango family, and the dal is reminiscent of raw mango sambhar.
We also make galho, which is any thick stew of greens and meat,
cooked in rice, with the necessary inclusion of bamboo shoots,
chilli, and a funky, fermented soybean known as axon. The funk
and spice permeate through the textures of the food with ease,
warming my belly with joy.
The next morning, we set out into the forest on a foraging
expedition, walking east of Chizami in the general direction of
the Myanmar border, which is about 50 kilometres away as the
crow flies. While people pride themselves on hunting, foraging
is a necessary complement to this skill. Men spend days out on
hunts with only the forest to feed them.
At first, Im overwhelmed by large ferns draping the mossy
walls of the hills or the odd rivulet coming out of an unseen crevice. As we spend more time in the forest, my eyes adjust to its
complexity. I begin noticing the many varieties of ferns in this
dense cover. Out of the hundreds of ferns growing here, Vitsino
deftly identifies and collects the edible ones. Almost every five
steps, she stops to point out a plant, and explain its medicinal

PIRAN ELAVIA

In Chizami village, a Chakhesang elder stands by a community house embellished with the traditional cross ploughs motif on top.

N AGALAN D
THE VITALS

Orientation Khonoma village is located in southern


Nagaland, 20 km west of the state capital Kohima. It is well
known as the states first green village. It is popular with visitors
because of its emphasis on conservation, a ban on hunting and
cutting of trees. Chizami lies 100 km east of Khonoma.
Getting there Dimapur is the entry point to the state and its
only civilian airport. Daily direct flights connect Dimapur with
Kolkata and Dibrugarh. Dimapur railway station is connected
to other northeastern states; the Jan Shatabdi from Guwahati
affords lovely views along the journey. Kohima is 68 km/2 hr
southeast of Dimapur (`220 for a seat in a shared taxi from
Dimapur airport or railway station to Kohima). Khonoma is an
hours drive from Kohima and Chizami is a four-hour drive from
Khonoma, via Kohima. Indians need an Inner Line Permit to
visit Nagaland.

Hornbill Festival A convenient way to experience


some of the foods and culture mentioned in this story is
during the Hornbill Festival, a ten-day event which takes
place in December each year. Details are available at www.
hornbillfestival.com

benefits. We encounter coagulants, blood thinners, and herbs


that control blood pressure.
My heroic eating efforts have led to a slightly upset stomach,
and Vitsino points to a herb along the road, telling me to make
a tea with it. On close inspection, I am thrilled to identify it as
wormwood! Perhaps most famously used as an ingredient in absinthe, wormwood is not something I have seen in India before.
For the rest of the walk, all I can see is wormwood everywhere.
On our return, we spot an oak tree crawling with tiny borer
insects. Known to some as lyha, the insect has been called the
saffron of Nagaland for the unique aroma it imparts to food.
Vitsino tells me that only the adults are consumed, in order to
allow their life cycle to continue. I shudder as I hold some of
these moving insects in my palm. Back at the guest house, Vitsino
boils the insects with dry ginger for a long time. After they are
cooked, she boils off the water, allowing them to crisp up. In the
meantime, I dutifully treat my stomach with wormwood tea.
When cooked, the borer insects have a pleasantly aromatic,
woody flavour and we enjoy them with a dal enriched with
freshly foraged ferns. As I consume this feast, I have a mounting
appreciation for Naga cuisine. Meat may be significant, and
something people in this region live to eat, but it is the bounty of
wild greens, the variously textured grains, the versatile legumes,
and the penetrating, umami flavour of fermented ingredients,
that people eat to live. And when I witness the human energy
required to cut and carry wood, and cook large pots of farmed

food to feed and care for pigs, I understand why meat is meant
to be an expensive commodity.
In the evening, when we gather around an elder from the community, I learn that the folk songs and tales of this village are
also inextricable to the land, and what people make of it. Seno
Tsuhah translates the stories, and some of them involve warriors
and tigers, but others describe ancestors breaking down slopes
and constructing terrace fields using the bones of cows as tools,
or lovers leaving notes on forest paths while collecting food. In
one story, two lovers are separated by mountains, but listen for
each others echoing songs as they work the fields.
Perhaps my favourite folk tale is one about the origins of axon.
According to a story from the Sumi tribe, Khujunakaliu was a
young orphan who was adopted by her uncle. She worked hard
in the fields, but her aunt was unkind to her and gave her boiled
soybeans, packed in dirty banana leaves, for lunch. Unable to
stomach this dish, Khujunakaliu left her wrapped lunch packets
in a hut near the field. After a few weeks, she smelled a funky
aroma suffusing the hut. Khujunakaliu enjoyed the taste, shared
it with friends, and axon was invented. It seems appropriate that
in Nagalands version of the Cinderella story, the discovery of a
new ingredient is the happy ending.
AdityA RAghAvAn is a physicist turned cheesemaker whose
passions include food, libations, and travel. He divides his time
between Canada and India.
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103

ROB HORSEFIELD

Waterlogged paddy fields create the perfect environment for snails to


thrive in. They are harvested and sold at local markets.

Food Tour The writer travelled on a recce for a food tour


that he is now leading for Kipepeo, a socially conscious travel
enterprise, which conducts tours throughout the Northeast.
The 8-day Nagaland Food Trail takes guests to the villages
of Khonoma and Chizami, and acquaints them with the local
cuisinefarming methods, cooking traditions, and foraging
techniques. It also includes a visit to a seed bank, a fruit wine
tasting, and cooking sessions with locals (www.kipepeo.in;
8 days; `39,000 per person which includes accommodation,
transport, all meals and cooking sessions; flights not included).

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

L
B
E
A
T
j

FOR

TWO

How food remedied a storm-stricken


holiday in Pondicherry
BY FABIOLA MONTEIRO

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

side, we found Appachi, a Chettinad restaurant with few frills


but generous helpings of coconut in every dish. Together, we
relished the mutton sukka and Chettinad-style chicken gravy.
It was a hearty meal, the kind that uplifts the cloudiest of days.

y dad and I, we dont talk a lot. I think of us as quiet


people. Observers. At home, though its just the two
of us, the Venn diagrams of our lives only intersect
at familial, kitchen, or house affairs. But when we
travel together, the world opens up. Whether its on
thrilling rollercoaster rides in Hong Kongs Ocean Park or while
scouring for knick-knacks in Singapores local markets, theres
an enthusiastic buzz that drives our days out of town together. In
those moments, it doesnt matter that he has forty years on me.
Of late, Ive noticed that it is food that excites us the most, and
packs a solid punch to my memories of travelling with my father.
On the second day of our trip, bolstered by the success of the
previous afternoon, Dad and I had walked out into the drizzle to
explore. The rain pitter-pattered on my windcheater and sloshed
against my feet. It brought out the yellow ochres, burnt reds, and
deep blues of the colonial homes we passed. Water dripped from
their louvred shutters. On the promenade that hugs the citys
Coromandel Coast, and becomes pedestrian-only every evening,
I watched waves crash against the rocks. Dad spotted a gelateria
by the bay that looked promising, and we made a mental note to
stop by later.

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could hear the downpour outside as we tucked into spicy,


yellow meen kuzhambu (fish curry), grilled fish flavoured
with garlic and fennel, and a colourful coconut-flecked
preparation of sauted vegetables called poriyal. The dishes
were accompanied by heaps of coconut rice, and finished off
with creamy homemade coconut ice cream. My dad and I were
having lunch at Maison Perumal, a fine heritage hotel whose
restaurant was recommended by Bala, the host of our cosy
guesthouse in Pondicherrys French Quarter. The restaurant,
which serves up Tamil and Continental fare, occupies the ground
floor around a well-lit courtyard, sheltered from the rain, and
lined with potted palms. The fronds swayed in the wind as we
ate. The thrum outside quietened to a drizzle. Things were finally
looking up.
It had been raining nearly non-stop ever since we got to
Pondicherry two days earlier. We had big plans for our holiday.
Dad and I had discussed picnicking under coconut trees on
Paradise Beach, having cheesy thin-crust pizzas in Auroville, and
exploring ancient Roman ruins in Arikamedu, four kilometres
outside the city. Id even convinced him to go on a cycle tour of
the city though its been years since he sat on a bicycle. But with
the rain playing spoilsport, my mood had been as dark as the
overcast sky.
Then, during a small break in the rain the previous day,
Dad and Iour stomachs rumblingdecided to step out.
Pondicherry is easy to navigate even for a newcomer, because
of the grid-like layout that defines its design. On the Tamil

At the cosy heritage hotel Maison


Perumal in Pondicherrys Tamil Quarter,
the restaurant dishes out delicious
seafood and locally grown produce.
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PHOTO COURTESY: CGH EARTH

PO N DIC HE RRY

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

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People-watching is best at the promenade (top), where the Bay of Bengal meets the French Quarter; One side of the Eglise de Notre Dame
des Anges church (bottom left) looks over the city, while the other
opens out to a garden by the sea dedicated to Joan of Arc; Rooms at
the Hotel de lOrient (bottom right) were once in shambles, but now, like
other restoration projects in the city, are in top-notch condition.

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PO N DIC HE RRY

Pondicherry is one of few Indian cities that make you feel like
youve entered a time machine. On the French side of town, roads
with names like Dumas Street and Goubert Avenue are reminders of colonial rule. Even redeveloped buildings are designed to
recall their erstwhile French-style architectural facades. On the
Tamil side, open verandas, wooden posts, colourful floor tiles,
and roomy inner courtyards bring to mind the rich architecture
of the not-so-far-off Chettinad region. We had made our way
to the Tamil Quarteror Heritage Townfor our memorable
lunch at Maison Perumal. After a meal like that, theres no room
for a glum mood.
During the rest of our rain-spattered days there, this became
our routine. We headed out each day to stroll through the city,
staying clear of the rain by ducking into cafs for pick-me-up
coffees and sweet hot chocolates. On our walks in Pondicherry,
we visited colonial churches, bookstores, and boutiques. In the
newly renovated seaside Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges church
(Church of Our Lady of Angels)which stands out thanks to
its bright, almost gaudy, shade of pink paintI said a quiet
prayer for leagues of travels like this. At a pop-up book sale, I
scored a book of Pondicherry folktales and a pocket Tamil-toEnglish dictionary. Another time, at La Boutique dAuroville,
Dad purchased sticks of Ayurvedic incense, while I spotted a
summery pair of striped orange culottes. We collected numerous
souvenirs, but the stops we made to consider ordinary items like
wooden cutlery and ceramic kitchenware were the ones that
gave me pause. I realised that even the remotest mention of food
makes our heads turn.
One evening, we stumbled upon a little caf-cum-boutique,

a street away from our homestay. Their racks held kitschy


clothing that made us shudder, but the makeshift caf in the
back stocked organic chocolate. Flavours ranged from peanut
butter and sea salt to the more adventurous chilli-cinnamon
and coconut milk. It was a tough choiceone we didnt bother
trying to make. One of each? I asked. Dad nodded. Besides,
I reasoned to myself, it is fair trade chocolate from a farm in
Tamil Nadu. Even if the flavours didnt live up to our hopes, the
purchases would be for a worthy cause. Later, as we nibbled on
the chocolate, it was clear that there was no need to worry. The
coconut milk bar took me back to the rejuvenating coconut oil
head massages of my childhood, while Dad preferred the experimental chilli-cinnamon bar. My favourite, hands down, was
the sea salt dark chocolateeach time I think of it, I want to
whip up a batch of sea salt chocolate cookies.

ravel seems to come easy to my father. Hes spent a lot


of his life up in the air, working as crew for Air India.
Jet-setting between destinations around the world,
home was his only constant layover. I remember
curling up in his suitcase as a tiny tot. Some mornings,
Id know just where hed flown back from based on the goodies on
the dining table. Croissants laid out for breakfast meant he had
returned from Paris. Giant packets of frozen fish fingers meant a
flight from London. Id look forward to enormous boxes of sweet
madeleines and tubs of Boursin garlic cheese. Not surprisingly,
when we went on trips together later, food continued to make
for the best memories.
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CLAUDE RENAULT/MOMENT/ GETTY IMAGES (CYCLIST)


FACING PAGE: VAIBHAV MEHTA (PROMENADE), FREDERIC SOLTAN/CORBIS DOCUMENTARY/GETTY IMAGES (CITY),
ALVARO LEIVA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (ROOM)

Pondicherry is a tiny, bicycle-friendly city. Sita Cultural Center, off Mission Street, conducts regular cycling tours for travellers.

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

On a rainy night in Pondicherry, we walked into the Hotel de


LOrient, a lovely heritage hotel salvaged from ruin by INTACH
Pondicherry. While sharing a Creole curry of tiger prawns and
rice, we considered the immense changes that this city has seen.
In the centuries before Indian independence, it changed hands
from the Chola kings, to the French, Dutch, British, and back
to the French. Over that time, its heritage only grew. Like the
Japanese art of kintsugi where broken pots are put together
with lines of gold, what could have been cracks in Pondicherrys
history have made it richer. It made me think of the way Dad
and I have pieced our lives back together since my parents
separated. Its a journey that has had its own twists and turns,
but weve gained from our travels together. New spaces and
new flavours dislodge routines, making way for spanking new
memories of comfort.
Though our trips have reduced significantly since Dad retired,
Ive noticed that we are freer and much more open on the road.
Stay in the moment, shop till you drop, eat your heart outall
the clichs come out. Id never have imagined, for instance, that
Dad would enjoy a decadent Ultimate Chocolate Sandwich, but
at Zuka Choco-la, the chocolate shop on Mission Street, his eyes
lit up when he bit into one.

n our last evening in Pondicherry, we stopped


by the Goubert Market, a sprawling, old local
market. Its numerous bylanes, riddled with fresh
pools of rainwater, are home to tiny stores that
stock everything from spices to saris. I picked up
cotton dupattas from a shopkeeper who imports his indigo-

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printed fabrics from Jaipur. Dad purchased packets of fragrant


cinnamon sticks, pungent peppercorns, and little round red
chillies from a kind old grandma. Treasures in hand, we made
our way to a little French bakery called Baker Street. While
Dad picked out sandwiches for our ride to the airport later that
night, I ordered us coffees and a chocolate escargot. The sweet
snail-shaped pastry was delicious; I fed it into my mental list of
Things To Learn To Bake One Day. Drinking coffee, I looked out
the window to see the rain come down outside. It was washing
away the old, offering everything in sight a clean slate. Taylor
Swifts Long Live came on, and Dad and Iboth fans of the pop
superstargrinned at each other.
Later, at Villa Shanti, a hotel and restaurant in a cosy
grey-and-white building on Suffren Street, I asked Dad what
inspires him to travel. He shrugged off the question, focusing
on the seafood saffron-sauce pasta in front of him instead. He
tends to write off travel as something that hes had to do for
a living, as if he didnt really care about it. But Ive seen him
in a new city. He can wander around foreverpopping into
tiny stores, navigating local supermarkets, and sweet-talking
his way into magnificent bargains at street marketsnever
letting his tiredness show. Im a little different. I take time
to adjust to a new space. His eagerness gets me through my
initial reservations. Together, we work well. And if, like it did in
Pondicherry, all else fails, at least we have our shared love for
food to draw on.
Fabiola Monteiro is National Geographic Traveller Indias Online
Features Writer. She loves beaches, blue skies, and baking, and is
most centred while trying a new cake recipe.

VAIBHAV MEHTA (BUILDING)


FACING PAGE: FABIOLA MONTEIRO (PLATE, GOAT & MAN), ALDO PAVAN/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (STREET STALL)

Clean lines, brightly coloured walls, and elegant balconies are common sights around Pondicherrys French Quarter.

PO N DIC HE RRY

1 Unwind with a book, a cup of coffee, and


a decadent chocolate sandwich at Zuka
Choco-la on Mission Street. 2 On walks
around the city, keep an eye out for unusual
sightslike a goat peeking into a store.
3 Street sellers retail all sorts of goodies
from fresh juice to popsicles. 4 The balance
of coconut and spice in Maison Perumals
meen kuzhambu is spot on, and makes the
curry finger-licking good.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

PONDICHERRY FOOD GUIDE


Appachi A no-frills restaurant in the Tamil Quarter that dishes
out wonderful Chettinad food. Try their mutton sukka (9,
Rangapillai Street, M.G. Road area).
Baker Street This cosy French caf stocks fresh bread,
pastries, and sandwiches (123, Bussy Street, M.G. Road).
Cafe Xtasi Wood-fired pizzas come straight out of the oven.
Theres no alcohol here; order takeaway to have a cold pint
with your thin-crust pizza (245, Mission Street, Opposite VOC
School, M.G. Road).
Carte Blanche Try Creole cuisine at Hotel de lOrients lovely
courtyard restaurant (17, Rue Romain Rolland).
Le Caf This is the spot to watch the sun go down over the bay
while sipping on a coffee. The caf is open 24 hours (Beach
Road, Near Gandhi Statue).
Lescale Named after the staircase that creeps up the building
facade, this boutique hotel offers a French-style breakfast on a
sea-facing terrace (31, Dumas Street).
Maison Perumal If youre hankering for fish curry and rice,
head over to this hotels courtyard restaurant. Ask for the days
specials (44, Perumal Koil Street).
Villa Shanti One of Pondicherrys chic eateries. Go for their
Continental fare. Pro tip: Get there early; theres always a
queue for tables (14, Suffren Street).
Zuka Choco-la This bakery has a range of sandwiches
including wonderful chocolate ones. Dont miss the 54 Degree
Celsius Hot Chocolate, which is served with a chocolate spoon
(319, Mission Street, M.G. Road).

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The culinary scene in Pondicherry includes


croissants (2) that hail back to the citys time
as a French colony, fresh fish (3) from the coast,
and a Chettinad influence thats noticeable in
crab and chicken curries (1, 6). Goubert Market
on Nehru Street (4) stocks everything from fruits
and flowers to spices and saris. Seafood steals
the show in Pondicherry, and restaurants offer
delicacies such as prawn biryani (5).

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SIMON REDDY/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (CRAB CURRY)


FACING PAGE: CSP_SOLOMONJEE/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (CHICKEN CURRY), MICHAEL MELFORD/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES (CROISSANT),
ALVARO LEIVA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (WOMAN), SUBHENDU SARKAR/CONTRIBUTOR/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY IMAGES (FRUIT SELLER),
LEISA TYLER/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES (BIRYANI)

PO N DIC HE RRY

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

Singapore

Food

Guide
MUST-TRY DISHES & TOP PANTRY PICKS

Hawker centres, markets, and


restaurants that serve the best food
in the city-state
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BY KAREENA GIANANI & RUMELA BASU

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WONG YU LIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

S IN GAPO RE

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

Chicken Rice
No Singapore hawker centre (food court) is complete without
a stall (or a dozen) selling chicken rice, Singapores no-frills
national dish. In the traditional Hainanese recipe, which dates
to the 1850s, the chicken is boiled and then immersed in cold
water to smoothen the skin and gelatinize the fat. It is served

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with rice cooked in chicken broth after the grains have been
fried with garlic, sesame, and chicken fat. It is a recipe that Wee
Nam Kee Chicken Rice in central Singapore follows steadfastly,
earning a badge of authenticity among locals.
(+65-62556396; 101 Thomson Road, 1-08 United Square;
open 10.30a.m.-10.30p.m. daily; SGD4.80/`230.)

SHOWCAKE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Singapores cuisine has been shaped by its multi-ethnic


immigrants. The city-state is a smorgasbord of Southeast
Asian cuisinea sensory hotpot of Chinese, Indonesian,
Malay, Peranakan, and Indian food. Heres our list of the best
dishes in the city and where to get them.

S IN GAPO RE

Chilli Crab
Eating chilli crab is a hands-on experience. Crack
the crustacean, scoop out the moist, tender meat,
and quickly pop it in your mouth before the brown,
flavourful juice seeps out. Use bread to mop up
whats left of the spicy sauce made with hot sambal,
tomato, onion, and egg. Matchbox-sized Mattar
Road Seafood Barbecue takes an hour to serve this
legendary dish, but its worth the wait. The owner
claims his recipe dates back to the 1950s, and he
devotes two days each week to preparing his sambal
and letting it rest. The result is an addictive balance
of sweet, spicy, and sour.
(+65-6447 2798; 1-63, 51 Old Airport Road Food
Centre; open 3-11 p.m., Thu-Mon; SGD40/`1,925 for
a 1-kg crab.)

Beyond the glass walls of the kitchen at Din Tai Fung,


cooks and servers wearing face masks gingerly place dim
sums in bamboo baskets before wheeling them over to
patrons. The restaurant chain is known for their xiao long
bao ( juicy pork dumplings), steamed buns, and unagi (eel).
The pork and truffle dim sums are exquisitely crafted: silky
dough is stuffed with filling, pleated with at least 18 folds,
and steamed lightly. Every dim sum is filled with broth,
warmth, and goodness.
(+65-68368336; B1-03 Paragon shopping centre, 290
Orchard Rd; www.dintaifung.com.sg; open 11a.m.-9.30p.m.
daily; meal for two SGD60/`2,900 approx.)

Satay
Every evening, Lau Pa Sat hawker centre thrums with the
voices of satay vendors hawking their barbecued delights.
Plastic chairs and tables are set up outside stalls, and the
air is heady with the smoky aroma of chicken, beef, and
prawn sizzling on skewers. Some patrons take their barbecue party inside the centre, sitting under Lau Pa Sats high
19th-century arches, amid Victorian columns with fine,
filigree ironwork. The grilled meat is served with sweetand-spicy peanut sauce, and best enjoyed with chilled beer,
which is the second-most popular buy in Lau Pa Sat.
(18, Raffles Quay; open 24 hours; satay 70 cents/`34
per stick.)
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BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK (CHILLI CRAB), STUDIO PAGGY/GETTY IMAGES (DIM SUMS), DOLPHFYN/SHUTTERSTOCK (SATAY)

Dim Sum

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

Nasi Padang

(+65-62974294; 11&15 Jalan Pisang; open


7a.m.-8p.m. Mon-Fri; SGD10-12/`480-580
per person.)

Century Eggs
Century eggs arent for everybody. The Chinese
delicacy is made by preserving chicken, duck, or
quail eggs in a saline solution for a few weeks,
some say years. The result is an ominouslooking grey yolk with egg white that has turned
a translucent black-coffee brown. Its a far
stronger flavour than boiled eggs, but one thats
surprisingly smooth and packed with umami.
Available at Din Tai Fung.
(+65-68368336; B1-03 Paragon shopping
centre, 290 Orchard Rd; www.dintaifung.
com.sg; open 11a.m.-9.30p.m.; meal for two
SGD60/`2,900 approx.)

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HONDOKUSUMO, WILLIAM/STOCKFOOD/DINODIA (NASI PADANG), MAKO IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK (PLATE),


MINOWA STUDIA CO/STOCKFOOD/DINODIA (CENTURY EGGS)

Nasi Padang is the Indonesian equivalent


of a thali: a lush spread of vegetables, meat,
and seafood curries served with rice. Tuck
in at the two-storeyed HJH Maimunah restaurant that also serves staples such as beef
rendang as well as more unusual preparations like lemak siput (snails cooked in
chilli paste and coconut milk). Most patrons
team their nasi Padang with glasses of the
chocolate and malt drink Milo. Like many
other restaurants in Singapore, Maimunah
serves them in two ways, Milo Dinosaur
and the ice-cream-topped Milo Godzilla.

S IN GAPO RE

Sambal Stingray
Fiery sambal, made with ginger, garlic, onions,
vinegar, rice wine, and shrimp, and succulent
stingray are a match made in heavenand a very
popular Malay-Singaporean delicacy. At Lau Pa
Sat, one of Singapores food courts, evenings are a
busy time when office-goers stop for a snack, and
families throng the stalls and sit around food-laden
tables. Try the sambal stingray or barbecued stingray
here. The fleshy fish is marinated in sambal paste,
wrapped in a banana leaf, and barbecued. The dish
is served with lemon wedges and chinchalok, a relish
of onion, chilli, lime, and fermented shrimp.

Kaya Toast

Fish Ball Soup


Fish balls can be a little hard to like if you arent used to eating seafood. The
spheres have a slightly gelatinous texture and a strong aroma that some find hard
to stomach. Sample a bowl at Chinatowns Food Streetthat spans an entire
cobblestone lane with outdoor seatingwhere vendors beckon hungry customers
to their small restaurants and stalls. Each serving has clear broth flavoured with
garlic, red chillies, and onions and a few fish balls. Some hawker centres also serve
noodles in their soup, and if thats how you like it, make sure you ask.
(Chinatown Food Street, Smith Street, Chinatown; Meiling Market & Food Centre,
159 Mei Ling Street; daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; approx SGD3/`150.)

Singaporeans love their kopitiams,


traditional coffee shops which serve a
strong, dark brew thats a guaranteed
shot in the arm. The best accompaniment to a stiff glass of kopi is kaya toast.
Crisp slices of bread are slathered with
a generous layer of butter and kaya:
a spread made from coconut milk,
egg, and sugar. Occasionally, kaya is
flavoured with honey or leaves of the
palm-like pandan tree. Its the perfect
start to the day, or a lovely end to a long
one spent exploring the city. Killiney
Kopitiam has many outlets in Singapore
while Tong Ah Eating House is an old
city favourite.
(Tong Ah Eating House, 35 Keong Saik
Road; SGD1.6/`78 for two slices; to find
the closest Killiney Kopitiam outlet, see
www.killiney-kopitiam.com.)
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JIT LIM/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (SAMBAL STINGRAY), WHITEJACK/SHUTTERSTOCK (FISH BALL SOUP),


DANIELLE TSI/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (KAYA TOAST)

(18, Raffles Quay; open 24 hours; SGD15/`730 for


one stingray.)

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

Ais Kacang
Corn and beans for dessert may sound weird, but not in
Singapore. Theyre an integral part of the technicoloured
ais kacang, thats all the rage in the nation. A bit like a
Singaporean falooda, the dessert comprises red beans,
coconut milk, rice noodles, grass jelly, and palm seeds
arranged around a bowl and topped with a mountain
of shaved ice. This is drizzled with sugary syrup and a
concoction of sweet corn and coconut milk. It is such a
popular dish, that there are gourmet versions available
in swanky restaurants. Try the options at the Chinatown
Complex Food Centre.

Picks for the Pantry

If you like cooking as much as eating, spend a morning


scouring Singapores many supermarkets. Shelves brim with
Chinese sausages, fish balls (vacuum sealed for the journey
back), bottles of sambal, and packets of laksa paste. Pouches
of spices like Sichuan pepper, dehydrated mango, and bottles

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of rice wine make great food souvenirs. You could also pick up
tropical fruits like rambutan just before you head back home.
Tea lovers can make a trip to the teahouses in Chinatown that
sell all manner of delicate Chinese and flavoured teas.
(Try NTUC Fairprice stores for ingredients and spices; Tiong
Bahru market for fresh fruits; and tea shops in Chinatown.)

ANDREW WATSON/PHOTOLIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES (AIS KACANG), LUCA LAZZARI/CAMARA LICIDA RM/DINODIA (STORE)

(Chinatown Complex Food Centre, 335 Smith Street;


SGD5/`250.)

S IN GAPO RE

PAUL KINGSLEY/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE

Food courts and hawker centres


are a ubiquitous part of Singapore.
Makansutra Gluttons Bay is one of
many iconic landmarks for foodies,
and one of the best places to
savour a sambal stingray.

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119

All smiles, a resident of


the village of Oingt sports
a tricoloured rosette.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

FRAN C E

I N F R A N C E S
B E AUJ O L A I S ,
A N I N TOX I CAT I N G
B L E N D O F WA R M T H
A N D W E LC O M E

BY B R U C E S C H O E N F E L D
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S U SA N S E U B E RT
Vineyards web
the church-dotted
Beaujolais landscape.
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Under the Influence

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

ON A CLEAR DAY, WINEMAKER JULIEN SUNIER

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tells me in the kitchen of his farmhouse cottage, you can see Mont Blanc
from our porch. Im finding this hard to imagine. We are in Beaujolais, a
region of gentle hills and tidy villages tucked between the Loire and Rhne
Rivers, hundreds of kilometres from the austere Alps. Also, its February,
and the sky is leaden white. The precipitation in the air is palpable. I can
barely see my rental car, parked in the mist shrouding Suniers driveway.
But let it snow. The house, which doubles as Suniers winery, is snug.
Jazz music emanates from somewhere, and Suniers wife, Sylvie, has constructed a midday meal of roast pork and Brussels sprouts with mustard
and salsify (one of my favourite root vegetables). Over a pear tart, Sunier
says that Beaujolais has been overlooked for years but now is beginning to
draw tourists and permanent transplants, such as the two of them, from
Burgundy, just up the autoroute.
At 37, Julien Sunier is at the forefront of a new generation of Beaujolais
producers that has turned the areas reputation for modest, unmemorable
winesincluding the insidious Beaujolais nouveauon its head. His three
bottlings, each from grapes grown in a different village, are as refreshing
as crisp apples, softly fruity, and with alcohol contents low enough that
you can enjoy some at lunch and not be addled in the afternoon.

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FRAN C E

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Mathieu Lapierre, son of famed


vintner Marcel Lapierre, relaxes at the
family winery. To the north sits the
privately owned Chteau de La Roche,
built in the 1600s (facing page).

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A classic French country inn,


the Source des Fes also
makes its own wines.

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

FRAN C E

Girls in Oingt celebrate the Fte des Conscrits, an annual town birthday event that brings residents together, transcending social distinctions.

THOUGH PARTS OF FRANCE OFFER


AN INSCRUTABLE, EVEN POMPOUS
FACE TO THE WORLD, BEAUJOLAIS
THROWS OPEN ITS ARMS.
The appeal of these wines cannot be expressed in ratings
points or auction values. Its in how the wines enhance what
Im eating, how they exist as beverages rather than artistic
statements, how they remind me of a summer picnic. No one
here, not even the winemakers, sits around solemnly intoning
about the aromas in the glass. In fact, the wine may not be
mentioned until halfway through a meal. Then, somewhere
between the talk and the laughter, someone will take a sip,
glance at the bottle, and say out loud, Hey, this is pretty good.
The same easy accessibility is a hallmark of this corner of
central France. Though parts of this nation offer an inscrutable,
even pompous face to the outside world, Beaujolais throws
open its arms. Its scenery is soft, like a watercolour. Hillsides
covered with vines give way to a bend in the road dictated, likely
as not, by some property dispute centuries ago. On my way to
Suniers I passed small goat farms and roadside restaurants
with blackboard menus scrawled in chalk. Inevitably, Id reach
a village centred on a centuries-old church.
Sunier and I drive down the hill to one of these, in his town

of Avenas. Along the road, once part of the Roman Via Agrippa
between Lyon and Boulogne, sits the stone Church of Notre
Dame. Bulkier than other churches Ive seen, it dates to the 12th
century and is known for a sculpted altar that guidebooks call
one of the finest in medieval Francethough youd never know
that from the small size of the sign directing visitors to the site.
Even tourism here is understated.
I stand before the altar and contemplate the seated figures of
Christ and the 12 apostles. Then Sunier leads me outside to a bar
attached to the local restaurant, Le Relais des Sapins (Inn of the
Fir Trees). A man grasps Sunier by the shoulders and gives him
a hearty embrace.
Hes the mayor, Sunier tells me as we sit down. Im not from
here, as you know. But in Beaujolais, thats not a problem.
Its in public spaces like this, Ive already learned, where
the social life of the region plays out: in restaurants, outdoor
markets, town squares, and small shops, from which a traveller
cant exit without hearing a singsong chorus of Bon voyage! If
a visitor shows up at a bar, its not uncommon for locals to walk
over and introduce themselves.
When someone notices you have an empty glass, you will immediately have a full glass, Sunier says. Within half an hour,
youll know everyone.
THOUGH IVE BEEN WRITING about wine for two decades,
it never occurred to me to visit Beaujolais until now. The wineJULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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tourism boom, which began in the 1990s when American
consumers sought out renowned producers and celebrated
restaurants in Californias Napa Valley, Bordeaux, Tuscany, and
beyond, missed the region entirely. Before World War II, Beaujolais
wines were considered some of Frances finest. The French
appellation dorigine contrle system, which permits food
products to bear place-names only if the raw materials are
actually from there, was created in 1935 in part to stop
Burgundian producers from labelling their cheaper Pinot Noir
with the names of Beaujolais villages. Thats how much cachet
Beaujolais had. But by 1945, the local economy had ground to a
halt. Adopting high-volume production methods and chemical
fertilizers to grow far more fruitand make far more profit
from the same landproved difficult to resist. The delicate
Gamay grape, the regions mainstay, seemed to suffer from such
treatment. By the 1990s, Burgundies were selling for up to
$500 (almost `35,000) a bottle. Beaujolais had devolved into
all-but-tasteless plonk.
At about the same time, wine revolutionary Marcel Lapierre
was pioneering a movement in Beaujolais away from industrialscale wines towards wines made by the bottle, using grapes
untouched by synthetic chemicals. When Lapierre died in 2010,
the baton passed to his son, Mathieu, to Sunier, and others. After
slow growth, their movement has gained a following. A steady
stream of visitors now comes through for the wine and ends up
entranced by the place itself.
Beaujolais has few guided tours or formal tasting rooms.
The main concession to organized tourism is the Beaujolais
wine route, between Lyon to the south and Mcon to the north,
which links townsbearing names I knew only from labels on
bottlesspaced through the rolling countryside. Marked with
an official logo, the route follows a network of roads, including
various shortcuts down glorified goat paths with street signs.
Even with a GPS, this labyrinth of a course around villages
and past vineyards is baffling to anyone who hasnt grown up
in the area. After a couple of days of three-point turns and
backtracking, I give up on the signs and head into the hills.
The sun has been up only an hour or two, and the air seems to
shimmer with the freshness of the morning. The France Musique
station is playing Debussy on my car radio as I sweep through
a landscape of tall pines and granite outcroppings that makes
the Alps feel not so distant after all. I dip down to Julinas, a
village known for violet-scented wine and a cavernous church
that probably could hold all 850 villagers. I walk Rue Alphonse
Burdot, stopping in a patisserie to eye the pastries. Then I spot a
bar across from the post office.
Id been told that Beaujolais natives start drinking in the
morning. Not brandy, as physical labourers traditionally did
throughout Europe, but tiny glasses of Beaujolais, rouge or blanc.
When I arrive, three men are sitting at the counter doing just
that. Its 10.30 a.m., but they greet me with such earnest good
cheer (alcohol-induced, maybe, but compelling nonetheless)
that I join them. Soon were talking, which astonishes me
because I dont speak enough French to carry a conversation
beyond perfunctory pleasantries. Surfing a wave of hospitality,
Im forming sentences and conveying ideas. Yes, its my first
time in Beaujolais. Sure, it would be better to be here in the
summer, but perhaps not, as Im getting a sense of the authentic
Beaujolais. To this they nod in agreement. Sans maquillage,
one of them says. Beaujolais without makeup.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

My wine, a simple white, is from Pruzilly, three kilometres


away. It is grown, made, sold, and consumed within a ten-minute drive. It doesnt just taste good going down. It feels virtuous.
Soon after, I find myself entering the village of Chiroubles,
where the buildings are blocky but the wines are the regions
softest and most fragrant. I slow to navigate an unexpected
swell of pedestrian traffic. When I spot garlands of the numeral
3 strung across the road, I understand. Ive stumbled upon a
Fte des Conscrits, a tradition unique to Beaujolais in which villagers born in a year that ends with the number of the current
year3, for 2013, for examplethrow a weekend-long party for
the village. To pay for it, organizers spend weeks peddling cakes
door-to-door. Events are scheduled so that no nearby towns hold
them on the same weekend.
I park by the town square and follow the crowd. Every second
or third person I see has a coloured ribbon pinned to a jacket
or tied around a lock of hair. Each colour designates a different
decadegreen for those born in 1993, yellow for 1983, and so on.
Up front, a group of 15 blue-ribboned sexagenarians (1953)
poses for a photo. Theyve done it every ten years since they

ID BEEN TOLD THAT BEAUJOLAIS


NATIVES START DRINKING IN
THE MORNING, TINY GLASSES OF
ROUGE OR BLANC. THREE MEN SITTING AT THE COUNTER ARE DOING
JUST THAT.
were boys, someone says with pride. Theyre far from the only
ones, Im sure. What better way to mark the march of the years
than with a photo each decade at the town hall?
A drum sounds, then another. A woman throws her arm
around her mother, who wears the red ribbon of her 50th year.
A knot of green-ribboned 20-year-olds attempts to sing a song
together but dissolves into laughter. I recognize a woman who
works at a hotel I stayed in earlier in the week. She introduces
me to her husband, her daughter, and her daughters friends.
Before long, I have an invitation for lunch. But first, would I
like some wine? From the town, the woman says. Only grapes
from the town.
As festivals go, this one is decidedly informal. There are no
rides or food booths, no cardboard tickets to spend, no speeches,
no entertainment. There is nothing to accomplish here. Maybe that is why everyone, from toddlers to the elderly, is able to
mingle comfortably together. There is nothing but time: time to
chat, time to contemplate, time to chase a balloon to the far side
of the square, which is what one little girl in a blue dress does
until a lone snowflake flutters onto her nose. She stops and lets
the balloon skitter away in the breeze. She cocks her head and
stares intently upward, as if the answers to the mysteries of the
universe are floating down from the sky.
ALL WEEK IVE BEEN HOPING to catch up with Mathieu
Lapierre; I wouldnt be in Beaujolais if not for the upheaval his
father set in motion. I also want to taste his wines, especially the
2009 Morgon, which is the last one Marcel made before he died,

FRAN C E

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Once a chapel, the painted Old Church Cellar (left) in Julinas today touts
earthier spiritsincluding the ruby-coloured local vintage; Cold cuts, cheeses,
and other treats (top) fill a plate at the Auberge du Paradis; Beaujolais back
roads (bottom) weave past vineyards and farms.

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127

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

Villi-Morgons outdoor restaurants are loved by patrons of all kinds


(left); Organic bread (top) is the fare at Le Pain dAur.

from one of the best Beaujolais vintages in years. Over a quick


drink in his local bar in Villi-Morgon, Mathieu and I agree to
meet at his winery on Monday morning, my last in the area.
I arrive at Domaine M. Lapierre to find it shuttered tight. Moments later, a well-travelled car that seems to have been light
blue once (unless it was always pale grey) putters through the
gate. A young woman, curls peeking from under a red wool beret, jumps out and introduces herself as Camille, Mathieus sister. Mathieu wanted me to take you somewhere, she says.
Raised in Villi-Morgon, Camille has run a shop in Brazil,
waited tables in Quebec, and worked as a sommelier in Biarritz.
Soon shell be heading to the republic of Georgia to make wine,
but she expects to eventually return to Beaujolais and run the
family winery with her brother.
This is where I belong, she says. She talks while she drives,
weaving through a series of hairpin turns and taking shortcuts
through alleys in a way that leaves little doubt she is local.
We pull up at a one-story building along a side street. Inside I
see what looks like an antique oven and a table with a young man
behind it selling four kinds of organic bread. Aurlien Grillet is
Camilles high school classmate. After graduating, he yearned
to create something of genuine value for his town. One of his
brothers made wine, another grew vegetables. So I decided on
bread, he reasoned, and opened Le Pain dAur.
I wish all bread tasted like this, Camille says. I take a bite. I
hadnt been sure why Mathieu wanted me to visit a bakery; now
I know. By the time were back at the car, Ive eaten half the loaf.
Camille and I meet Mathieu and Mme. LapierreMarcels
widow and their motherfor lunch at Le Pr du Plat, in Cerci.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Ive realized that the best meals in the region, even those at the
few Michelin-starred restaurants, are simple and shirtsleeveinformal: roasted chicken, morels nestled close, good bread on
the table. The meal today ranks among the best Ive had. The
restaurant is clean, bright, and modern, yet serves earthy, unadorned food. Between bites, Mathieu reveals that he plans to
open a similar restaurant of his own in the coming months, in
part so he can get the kind of food he likes all week long.
The places I want to go to always seem closed, he says.
Then he brings me back to the winery. The sun has come out
now, and we stand in a courtyard tasting his wines. This is
where I receive my visitors, he says. Its far better than standing in a cellar.
He opens a bottle of the 2009 Morgon and explains that he
loves how different it is from the vintages that preceded and
followed it. Consistency, the basis for most successful business
models, is the opposite of what he wants to accomplish.
The loaf that a baker bakes on Monday is different from the
one he bakes on Tuesday, he says. If hes a real baker.
The sun is lighting up the sky from behind us, casting an
ethereal brightness onto the courtyard. The 2009 Morgon is
exceptional, the best Beaujolais Ive had. I start to tell Mathieu
what I think, but he holds up a hand. He doesnt want me to
analyze it; he doesnt even want me to consider it. He just wants
me to drink it.
Colorado-based travel writer Bruce Schoenfeld specializes in
writing about wines. Contributing photographer SuSan SeuBert
divides her time between Oregon and Hawaii, U.S.A.

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FRAN C E

Ribboned Fte des Conscrits


celebrants stroll in Oingt.
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

129

Mcon

E62
N79

Visa

Where to Sip

Need to know
130

Visitors travelling to Beaujolais need a Schengen


visa. The application form is available online (www.
vfs-france.co.in). The completed form and supporting
documents have to be submitted at the French
embassy in New Delhi, the consulates in Mumbai,
Bengaluru, Pondicherry, or Kolkata, or at one of the
VFS offices around the country (`4,545 for a singleentry short-stay visa, plus `1,505 VFS charges).

Wine tastings are nearly always informal, with


glasses resting on an upright barrel in the cellar and a
proprietor or family member pouring. Youll rarely be
charged a fee, but the wines are inexpensive enough
for you to show your appreciation by buying a bottle.
Just remember that you are only allowed to bring
home two litres.
Vote des Crozes features high-quality, traditional
Beaujolais from one of the areas few female
producers. One to buy: 2014 Cte-de-Brouilly; a rich,
round, full expression of Beaujolais fruit. (Cerci; +3304-74668037; visits by appointment; 15/`1,135 per
bottle approximately)
Lathuilire-Gravallon, a little-known husbandand-wife producer, tucked behind a busy road,
makes fresh-tasting, fruit-driven wines. One to buy:
2014 Brouilly Pisse-Vieille; earthy yet bright. (VilliMorgon; www.lathuiliere.fr/en; visits by appointment;
9.50/`720 per bottle, sold by box of six bottles)
M. Lapierre is the most highly regarded winery in the
region. One to buy: the 2014 Morgon; the flagship,
its complex, minerally, age-worthy. (Villi-Morgon;
www.marcel-lapierre.com; visits by appointment;
17.50/`1,325 per bottle).

Dont expect hospitality directors or gift shops


at the wineries you visit in Beaujolais. Advance
appointments by phone or email are necessary, since
nobody is waiting around to receive visitors.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Pruzilly
Crches-surSane

Julli

Saint-AmourBellevue

Julinas

N6

RomancheThorins

Chiroubles

Domaine LathuilireGravallon

Varennes-lsMcon

Thoissey

Lanci
Villi-Morgon

Saint-Didiersur-Chalaronne

Domaine
M. Lapierre
Drac

RHNE-ALPES

E15
A6

Le Pr du Plat
Domaine de la
Vote des Crozes

Cerci
2

0 mi

Belleville

0 km

Feature: Beaujolais
6th Proof
Traveler
7/25/13

Eat

Atlas

Olivier Muguet
specializes in traditional
dishes made with
seasonal produce at La
Poulard in La Chapellede-Guinchay (www.lapoularde71.fr; set meal
for two 126/`9,530).
The look of Le Pr du
Plat, a neighbourhood
bistro in Cerci, is
modern, but the
foodparticularly
the daily specialsis
down-home. Features a
strong selection of local
wines (set meal for two
32/`2,420).

l By law, all grapes


harvested in Beaujolais
must be picked by hand.
l Beaujolais nouveau
wine is always released
for sale on the third
Thursday of November,
regardless of the start
of the harvest.

Stay
On the northern edge of Beaujolais, in tiny but
fashionable Saint-Amour, Auberge du Paradis
offers nine individually styled rooms. Breakfast is a
highlight: Nearly everythingjams to charcuterieis
made in-house (www.aubergeduparadis.fr; doubles
from 145/Rs11,000).
Chteau de la Barge, in Crches-sur-Sane, is
an ivy-covered 17th-century manor house with a
swimming pool and high-ceilinged rooms (www.
chateaudelabarge.fr; doubles from 153/Rs11,600).

INTERNATIONAL MAPPING

Getting There

The closest airport to Beaujeu, which is the gateway


to the region, is in Lyon (50 km/1 hr). There are no
direct flights to Lyon from India, and flights from
major Indian cities usually stop at one or more
Middle Eastern or European gateways.

A6

E62

Domaine
Julien
Sunier Avenas
Church of
Notre Dame

Beaujolais, in eastern France is one of the historic


winemaking regions of the country. It is nestled
between Lyon and Mcon and stretches into parts
of Burgundy and the foothills of mountains of the
Rhne-Alpes. Its undulating vineyard-carpeted hills
mostly border the Sane river plain.

Orientation

Domaine les Ctes


de la Roche

BOURGOGNE

Sane

THE GUIDE

J O
L A
I S

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

E15

FRAN C E

OWEN FRANKEN/CORBIS DOCUMENTARY/GETTY IMAGES

Workers harvest gamay grapes for the making


of Beaujolais nouveau wine, at the Domaine
du Vissoux vineyards. The wine is fermented
for a few weeks only, and released on the third
Thursday of November each year.

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131

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

BY BILL FINK
PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

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A NEW
COFFEE
DESTINATION
BEARS FRUIT
IN THE
COUNTRYS
NORTH

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A local harvest
of organically
grown coffee fruit
eventually ends up
as a drink to linger
over at Ikaro Caf,
in Santa Marta.

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

133

In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

in the small Colombian town of Minca. It smells of caramel,


bark, charcoal, and chocolate. The source? Coffee beans, fresh
from backyard roasters, their sharp burnt odour cutting through
the humid tropical haze.
Here in northern Colombia, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
range rises straight from the shores of the Caribbean. Long left
undeveloped due to political troubles, this now peaceful area
draws urban Colombians and savvy international visitors to the
palm-fringed beaches of Tayrona National Park, the ancient
archaeological site of Ciudad Perdida, and the birding paradise
of the jungles around Minca.
Recently, Minca and the Sierra Nevada have begun to attract
coffee-loving travellers, a collection of connoisseurs and curious
backpackers eager to discover what Juan Pablo Campos, general
manager of the Lohas Beans trade group, calls the most important Colombian region for organic coffee.

While coffee is not native to Colombia, the plant has flourished


for centuries on the countrys steep, shade-covered mountains,
with rainfall, altitude, and temperatures ideal for growing the
mellow, medium-bodied arabica-style bean. Colombia has been
exporting coffee since the early 1800s, and in 2015 alone shipped
8,40,000 tons of coffee beans. A series of advertisements in the
1950s featuring fictional characters Juan Valdez and his trusty
mule, Conchita, propelled Caf de Colombia to fame.
Colombias better-known coffee trianglethe Caldas,
Quindo, and Risaralda departments in the countrys westnow
supports a well-trod tourist track between luxury lodges and
standardized plantation tours. But it is the Sierra Nevada that
offers an authentic journey into the pastand a taste of the future
of Colombian coffee. In remote highlands, indigenous tribes of
Kogi and Arhuaco lead the way in organic coffee production,
developing a sustainable farming network that combines
traditional spiritual beliefs with modern planting
knowledge. These farms embrace generations-old
techniques and tools to produce sought-after organic
blends, with many beans triple certified as organic,
fair trade, and rainforest-friendly.
The gateway to the region is the sunny Caribbean
seaside city of Santa Marta, where the bitter street
blend of tinto (from the Spanish word for ink) black
coffee is sweetened with spoonfuls of sugar. Coffee aficionados will skip the tinto, as well as the ubiquitous
Juan Valdez chain stores, and head to Santa Martas
smaller shops, such as Ikaro Caf.
Exploring the areas coffee culture is best done
during harvest season, from about November
through February, and can be as simple as hiring a
taxi for the approximately 40-minute, 24-kilometre
bumpy ride from the sea to the hills. Visits to tribal
lands require special permission or an organized trip
from an approved local operator such as Wiwa Tour
(wiwatour.com).
A stop at Hacienda la Victoria above Minca is
like travelling to 1892, when the farm was founded.
Husband-and-wife owners Micky and Claudia Weber
At Hacienda la Victoria, owner Claudia Weber inhales the robust aroma of freshly
provide a bean-to-brew education on growing,
washed and dried coffee beans.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

Using a pestle, Minca coffee


grower Angel Maria Orozco
peels the hard outer skin of
dried coffee beans.

processing, and roasting coffee. Visitors will see the same welloiled machinery in use since the farms beginnings: waterpowered generators, gravity-driven sorters, and hand-cranked
presses. Tours conclude with a tasting of their blends, often
accompanied by home-made apple pie. Other local farms
promote scheduled and drop-in tours and tastings of high-end
coffeesa difference from only a few years ago when Colombia
had an unofficial policy of export the best, and drink the rest.
Drinking a good cup of coffee is just the beginning of a trip
to Minca, where swathes of coffee beans dry on street side tarps
in season. Hiking trails wind through Sierra Nevada rainforest
to the Marinka and Pozo Azul waterfalls. Hundreds of butterfly
and bird species native to the area include parrots so plentiful
theyre like pigeons, according to one visitor.
Minca plantations may flash back a few generations, but indigenous Kogi farms (or those of the more remote Arhuaco),
located deeper in the mountains, are a journey back centuries.
The tribes live without electricity in traditional adobe huts with
thatched roofs. They often carry their mochila (handwoven
knapsacks) and wear homespun cotton clothing, white to symbolize the purity of nature. Their traditional conical headgear
represents sacred snow-capped mountain peaks. Their mamos
(spiritual guides) perform purification ceremonies of prayer and
song prior to planting and harvesting the beans.

TAYRONA NATIONAL
NATURAL PARK

C a ri b b e a n
Sea

PANAMA

AREA
ENLARGED

VENEZ.

Santa
Marta

90

Guachaca
G

ai

COLOMBIA
Coffee
Bogot
triangle

Minca

ra

Hacienda
la Victoria

90

Ciudad
Perdida

Cienaga
5 mi

SIERRA NEVADA
DE SANTA MARTA
NATIONAL NATURAL PARK

5 km

It all works in harmony with the land, their neighbours, and


modern markets, nurturing a future model not only for growing
coffee but for ripening Colombian tourism itself.
Bill Fink can often be found with a fresh cup of Colombia
Luminosa in Oakland, California. Italy-based photographer
Francesco lastrucci travels to Colombia frequently. He says,
Its almost a second home to me.
JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

135

A Kogi farmer in El Trompito, an


indigenous community on the
outskirts of Tayrona National
Park, harvests mature coffee.

136

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

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In Focus | TASTE O F TRAV EL

CO LO MBIA

THE GUIDE
Colombia is located on the northwestern tip of South America.
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a range of mountains
that runs along Colombias coast with the Caribbean Sea. The
gateway to the region is the coastal city of Santa Marta, which
is 950 km north of the countrys capital Bogota. The town of
Minca is 17 km/40 min southeast of Santa Marta.

Getting There
Flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Bogota require at least one
stopover at a European gateway. Frequent 1.5-hour-long flights
connect Bogota with Santa Marta. Buses and taxis ply regularly
between Santa Marta airport and Minca.

Visa
Indians who have a valid U.S. or Schengen visa can stay in
Colombia for up to 90 days without applying for a separate
visa. Others can obtain a list of required documents and
submit applications at www.cancilleria.gov.co. The submission
is followed by an initial non-refundable payment of `3,640. If
the application is approved, applicants must pay an additional
`6,000 for the visa. The processing time is about ten working
days. Do check whether you need a transit visa for your layover.

Where to Stay
Ecohabs Tayrona Thatched seaside bungalows designed
by a local architect nestle in Tayrona National Park
(ecohabsantamarta.com; doubles from $279/`18,800,
including breakfast).

La Brisa Loca At this social Santa Marta hostel, friendships


form at the courtyard pool and the rooftop bar (labrisaloca.
com; dorms from $11.16/`753 per person; doubles
$24.41/`1,645).
Casa Loma Minca The view from the top is worth the climb
up the long flight of stairs to this Minca hostel on a hill
(casalomaminca.com; dorm COP28,000/`620 per person; hut
doubles from COP60,000/`1,325).

Where to get a cup of joe


Ikaro Caf Local organic coffee, vegan and vegetarian fare,
and a bright interior make this one of the best hang-outs in
Santa Marta (ikarocafe.com; meal for two about $55/`3,700).
Tienda Caf Fans of this classic Minca spot savour their
cups of local roasts (and a brownie) outside on the porch,
but head inside for a trove of handicrafts for sale (+57-3126385353; [email protected]).
Hacienda la Victoria Enjoy a coffee at its source at this
124-year-old family-owned coffee plantation, which also
offers tours and an on-site bistro (www.facebook.com/
LaVictoria1892).

Travel to Colombia with Nat Geo


A 12-day itinerary includes the countrys southeastern coffee
triangle and Tayrona National Park (www.natgeoexpeditions.
com/colombia; from $3,099/`2,09,235 per person based on
double occupancy).

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Orientation

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137

Inspire |

BELGI U M

GERMANY
BELGIUM

DINNER IN
THE SKY
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

Anyone whos ever dreamt of


Harry Potter-style levitating
tables or flying carpets will love
the idea of Dinner in the Sky,
where diners tuck into a meal at
a dining table hovering 150 feet
above the ground. The concept
originated in Brussels about a
decade ago, with mechanical
cranes hoisting up a large
platform with a dining table
upon it. For entertainment,
theres the viewthe citys
skyline spread out in front,
with important landmarks like
the Grand Place or Brussels
famous Atomium, glittering
in the distance. The 22 guests
are strapped into their chairs
and award-winning chefs serve
them from their station in the
middle of the table.
The concept has rapidly
grown popular, with daredevil
diners signing up for Dinner in
the Sky at over 40 destinations
around the world, including
Malaysia, Mexico, Dubai, South
Africa, and India. The venues
are the main draw, but the food
is also special, with signature
recipes created by renowned
chefs like Heston Blumenthal
and Pierre Gagnaire.
Try to avoid getting into
a fight with a fellow diner or
eating something youre allergic
toits a long way to the
ground (www.dinnerinthesky.
com; brunch from 69/`5,250,
dinner from 159/`12,052).
Rumela Basu

138

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

GEORGES GOBET/STAFF/AFP/GETTY IMAGES

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

139

Inspire |

AUSTRA L I A

INDONESIA

AUSTRALIA

Sydney
INDIAN OCEAN

FERRIS WHEEL
DINING
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

For a romantic dinner, couples


can book a table for two in one
of the cosy cabins of the Ferris
wheel at Luna Park in Sydney.
As the wheel turns slowly,
diners enjoy a gourmet threecourse meal while watching the
sun go down. Its a spectacular
sight to see the harbour come
alive with twinkling lights, as
the brilliantly lit Opera House
dominates the view.
Hosted by The Deck, a
Sydney waterfront restaurant,
the menu on the Ferris Wheel
Dining experience showcases
the regions abundant fresh
produce and seafood. Dishes
like kingfish carpaccio or
lobster primavera are included,
but its the views spanning
the skyline of central Sydney
all the way from Harbour
Bridge to Walsh Bay, that
are the star attraction. Not
surprisingly, the two-hour
experience is a big hit, and
has been the venue for many
a marriage proposal (www.
lunaparksydney.com/ferriswheel-dining; every Sunday
from October 2016-March
2017; AUD399/`19,825 for a
carriage).
Rumela Basu

140

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

PHOTO COURTESY: THE DECK, SYDNEY

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

141

Inspire |

NETHER L A N DS

UNITED
KINGDOM
GERMANY
NETHERLANDS
FRANCE

CULIAIR HOT
AIR BALLOON
RESTAURANT

Morocco

Algeria

Tunisia

Malta

NETHERLANDS

When the weather in the


Netherlands is good, master
chef Anglique Schmeinck fires
up the stove and the burner
of a cheery hot-air balloon,
ready to serve up Dutch
specialities while floating
through the air. The CuliAir
Hot Air Balloon Restaurant
is niftily fitted out with
space for Schmeincks mini
kitchen and a dining area
that accommodates up to 14
guests. Visitors sip champagne
and enjoy a leisurely ride over
sloping valleys and rugged
snow-capped mountains, while
Schmeinck preps and plates
fresh meals. Like the balloons
route, the menu is dictated by
the season. It features culinary
treats crafted from fresh, local
produce, like scallops with
wine and mushrooms and a
white chocolate and passion
fruit mousse.
The primary ballooning
season is from April to
September though there are
trips in autumn and winter
as well. Guests can choose
a champagne breakfast at
sunrise or multi-course dinner
extending over four to five
hours (www.culiair.nl; from
415/`31,300 per person).
Rumela Basu

142

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

PHOTO COURTESY: CULIAIR HOT AIR BALLOON RESTAURANT

JULY 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

143

TRAVEL QUIZ
T E S T Y O U R T R AV E L I Q

WHEN WAS
THE FIRST
MICHELIN
FOOD GUIDE
PUBLISHED?

WHAT IS POKE
IN HAWAII?

6
IN WHAT PART OF
THE WORLD IS "HAVE
YOU EATEN YET?" A
NORMAL GREETING
WHEN MEETING
SOMEONE?

WHAT WOULD YOU BE SERVED IF


YOU ORDERED JERK IN JAMAICA?

WIENER
SCHNITZEL IS
THE NATIONAL
DISH OF WHICH
COUNTRY?
WHAT IS THE CURRIED MINCE AND SAVOURY
CUSTARD DISH YOU CAN EAT IN SOUTH AFRICA?

IN WHICH
COUNTRY ARE
YOU LIKELY TO
SIP WINE WITH A
SCORPION IN IT?

INJERA IS A STAPLE BREAD AT EVERY


MEAL IN WHICH CUISINE?

ANSWERS 1. MEXICOS DAY OF THE DEAD FESTIVAL 2. 1900 3. A RAW FISH SALAD APPETISER 4. CHINA 5. AUSTRIA 6. VIETNAM 7. SPICED AND BARBECUED PORK OR
CHICKEN 8. BOBOTIE 9. ETHIOPIAN

144

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2016

SEDGRAPHIC/SHUTTERSTOCK (SKELETON), PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.FOODANDDRINKGLASGOW.CO.UK (BOOK), YASUHIRO AMANO/SHUTTERSTOCK


(BOWL), KONGSAK/SHUTTERSTOCK (CHOPSTICKS), A_LEIN/SHUTTERSTOCK (PLATE), ESHMA/SHUTTERSTOCK (BOTTLE), LHB1239/WIKIMEDIA
COMMONS (BIT.LY/1JXQJMA) (SIGNBOARD), FANFO/SHUTTERSTOCK (PAN), PAUL_BRIGHTON/SHUTTERSTOCK (BREAD)

WHICH
FESTIVAL
INVOLVES
OFFERINGS OF
SUGAR SKULLS
AND HUMANAND ANIMALSHAPED
BREAD?

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