Os Mosteiros No Deserto Da Jordania
Os Mosteiros No Deserto Da Jordania
Os Mosteiros No Deserto Da Jordania
O. Sion
The final stage of the 1993 archaeological survey of the Kalia region revealed the monastic remains in the Desert of the Jordan. The baptism
sites, the arid desert landscape, the friable layers of Lissan marl and the scattered springs drew the monks of the Byzantine period, turning the site into
a center of intense activity. The survey was conducted in 1992-1993 on behalf of the Civil Administration of Judea and Samaria and the Antiquities
Authority. The survey was headed by O. Sion (who also photographed and
drew the plans), assisted by: D. Amar, L. Alon, Y. Golan, Y. Goldman, Y.
Tsionit, Z. Abeles, and S. Amami. In the ninety years that have passed since
it was last researched, the monasticism of the desert of the Jordan was almost forgotten; thus, the survey was almost a renewed discovery. Many
passed through the area without noticing the man-made remains, so well do
they blend into the landscape. It took stumbling on the remains of a cell and
collecting potsherds that were scattered around it, to realize that many other
remains were to be found in the site.
The name Desert of the Jordan refers to the plain to the east and to
the south of Jericho (Fig. 1). The area is mentioned in the literature of the
pilgrims who passed through it on their way from the baptism sites on the
Jordan to Jericho and Jerusalem. It also appears in the writings of the Judean
desert monks such as: Cyril of Scythopolis and John Moschus1. The landscape in this area is flat, except for a scarp following the line of the springs
(from north to south): Ein el-Beida, Ein Hajla, Ein Nargil and Ein Abu
Mahmud. At this scarp the plateau drops down to the reed bush on the Jordan bank, named ez-Zur. A network of small streams flows at the base of
the scarp. The soil consists of thin layers of clay, chalk, gypsum, sand and
huwar pebbles. The concentration of clay in the sediments formed hard layers that are evident in the landscape. These steps prevent drift and allow
the hewing of the rock for building purposes. Nahal Perat (Wadi Qelt), the
largest stream in the area, crosses the northern part of the desert. Its bed is
packed with limestone rocks and its side cliffs are steep. In certain points,
their height reaches twenty meters. This stream is the only one that pours
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Fig. 1 Map of the Jordan Desert and the sites of the monasteries.
into the Jordan river. The watercourses to the south of Nahal Perat, such as
Wadi Ghor el-Murrar, Wadi Muqtal Qattam and Wadi Murrar, do not reach
the Jordan river or the Dead Sea, but rather the large salt deposits north of
the Dead Sea. The only perennial water sources in this area are the Jordan
river and a number of springs, the largest of which is Ein Hajla (Phot. 1).
The aquifer is close to the surface and allows the growth of palm trees,
tamarisks, and poplars (Phot. 2).
The flat landscape and the scant vegetation allowed for free movement
and made road construction unnecessary, thus making the dating of the
paths a very difficult task. Two main roads crossed the Jordan desert
broadwise towards Jericho, one starting at the monastery of John the Baptist (Qasr el-Yahud) and the other at Deir Hajla (Phot. 3). The main lengthwise roads passed at the foot of the cliffs and close to the bank of the
Jordan river.
The monasticism of the desert of the Jordan was the object of attention
by many of the Judean desert researchers such as: Tobler, Gurin, Conder and
Kitchener, Chitty, Meinardus and others. The most important studies describ-
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ing the remains at the site are due to Fderlin2 and Augustinovi (1951).
Vailh (1898) and Schneider (1938) supplied a detailed historical survey.
Fderlins map3 was used for decades as the only detailed source of information about the remains of cells and monasteries. The level of detail is high and
the mapping shows a good degree of accuracy. In some cases this map is the only
evidence of those findings that were destroyed during the years, mostly as a result of agricultural activity in the area. A wave of Israeli research of the site began in the 70s. The first surveyor was P. Bar-Adon (1972) whose team documented sites in the Judean desert and in the Jericho valley. Y. Hirschfeld and J.
Patrich were next: the former surveyed cells in the surroundings of the monastery of Deir Hajla and the latter carried out an excavation and documented cells
in the area of Ein el-Mahmud4. With our survey we have tried to complete the
picture, using the written sources and the archaeological evidence.
Historical review
The historical sources attest the existence of hermits in the desert of the Jordan as early as the 4th century. They apparently were the first monks in the
area5. Geographically, the desert of the Jordan belongs to a landscape unit
separate from the Judean desert, but the monastic movement there is an integral part of the Judean desert monasticism. The first communal monastery of
the area was founded in the 5th century by the monk Gerasimus, who is considered the father of the local monasticism, and was named after him. This
period marked the beginning of a time of bloom for the Judean desert monasteries, and especially for the monasticism of the desert of the Jordan. The
monastery of Gerasimus included a church, a kitchen, a refectory, storage areas and a dwelling wing. Gerasimus set strict rules according to which, every
monk was to stay in solitude in his cell for five days a week. The clothing was
plain and needs were reduced to a minimum. Personal belongings were limited to a rush mat and a bowl for drinking which also served for wetting the
palm leaves. The monks diet was based mainly on bread, dates and water.
The monks work mostly consisted of making baskets and ropes out of
palm leaves. On Saturdays and Sundays the monks gathered in the core of the
laura, ate cooked food, drank wine and prayed together. In the cells they were
2. Full references in Hirschfeld 1992, 289.
3. Fderlin 1903, 120.
4. Hirschfeld 1991; Patrich - Arubas - Agur 1993.
5. Vita Charitonis 1941, 13,26.
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not allowed to light candles or prepare a warm drink. The cells were constantly left open6. In Gerasimus time, the number of monasteries in the area
increased to four. After his death, and particularly during the 6th century, the
pilgrimage movement to Palestine increased, encouraged by the emperors
Anastasius and Justinian. The former built the monastery of John the Baptist
near the Jordan, to which two hostels were added with the help of the latter7.
In this period about ten new monasteries were established in the area.
The end of the monastic movement, both in the desert of the Jordan and
in the Judean desert, was brought about by the Arab conquest, although the
Muslim occupation was apparently not more violent than the earlier Persian
conquest.
Our survey of the monasteries follows the presumed order of their foundation, based mostly on the historical sources. An attempt has been made to
combine the historical with the archaeological data as reported by the various scholars, with reference also to the current state of the sites.
The Laura of Calamon, or Laura of the Reed Bush (Site K), was established approximately in 450 A.D. The opinions about the location of the core of
the laura vary. Some scholars identified it at Deir Hajla (Marti, Vailh,
Schneider and Augustinovi), while others located it east of the spring. Later in
this article we will discuss the problematic nature of the remains found at Deir
Hajla. About the other site, Fderlins report is helpful: The remains of the
monastery were discovered at a distance of approximately 200 meters from the
spring. The remains, among which walls and mosaic tesserae, were found by
the monks of the monastery of John the Baptist in the process of preparing the
ground for planting. Among the remains the central building of the Laura, 30
48 m, is prominent. In the center of the building there was an inner courtyard
where a round water cistern, 7.5 m in diameter, is still preserved. The courtyard
is surrounded by dwelling cells8. The only remains that have survived todays
agricultural works are a cistern and potsherds of the Byzantine period.
The monastery of Gerasimus Deir Hajla or Qasr Hajla (Site M) was
established ca. 455 A.D. Gurin, who visited the place 120 years ago, describes a decayed monastery and a ruined church within. Remains of paintings and inscriptions were found among the ruins. Gurin dated the monastery
to the Crusader period on the basis of its pointed arches9. Others, such as
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the 6th, in the place where, according to the Christian tradition, Jesus was
baptized. The site was extensively studied by Gurin, Clermont-Ganneau,
Conder and Kitchener from the archaeological point of view, and by Marti,
Vailh, Augustinovi and Meinardus on the historical aspects13. Gurin described a ruined monastery, surrounded by a wall; among the ruins he identified fallen arches and a chapel with an apsis to the east. Gurin believed that
above the chapel a church had been built of zhich the bases of a few pillars
and portions of walls survived. An ancient reservoir was surveyed in the western fringes of the ruins. Many pilgrims had visited the site and left their mark,
mainly in the form of crosses engraved on the walls. Since the 12th century
the monastery was rebuilt on the remains of the original building. A survey
of the area revealed an abundance of Byzantine sherds in the debris around
the monastery. Near it, there is a Byzantine aqueduct (Phot. 4) in a west to east
direction coming from an unknown source.
Another monastery was discovered near the church of Galgala, en-Nitle
or Tell Jaljul (Site E). The land at the site is plowed and thus nothing has
survived but a few stones, sherds, a small artificial cavity, and perhaps a
reservoir. When the monastery was surveyed about 90 years ago14, it was
surrounded by a wall, sections of which were preserved to a height of 9 m.
Seventeen monastic cells were scattered around. The excavations conducted
during the years 1949-1951 by Baramki15 could not ascertain whether the
remains belonged to a church. The period of activity at the site was dated from
the 4th to the 9th century. Hirschfeld concluded from the excavation findings
that there had been a monastery attached to a church of the Byzantine
Period16.
These are six of the best known and most important monasteries of the
desert of the Jordan. Fderlin added to them a list of seven monasteries that
were not previously known, which he also identified. All are dated to the 6th
century. They are the monastery of the Towers, the monastery of Peter, the
monastery of the Aeliotes, Soubiba of the Syrians, Soubiba of the Bessians,
Penthucla and Chorembe. The monastery of the Towers was surveyed by P.
Bar-Adon, but all the rest were forgotten. The impression we formed from the
survey is that the first five were indeed monasteries, while the remaining two,
Chorembe and Penthucla, are only ruined monastic cells.
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buildings and sherds of the Byzantine Period were also found in two additional locations: one, a 10 10 m ruin, is approximately 300 m to the west of
the site and it seems to be one of the cells mentioned by Fderlin. The other,
in a state of total deterioration, is located approximately 350 m east of the
monastery, just near the road.
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Fig. 5 The map of the central group of cells in the Jordan Desert.
quarrying sites from which the stones had been taken were found almost beside every single cell. A physical connection between the monasteries and the
cells was not found, even though the location of the monasteries at the fringe
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branches of poplar and tamarisk. The ceiling is made of wood beams, laid
lengthwise and topped with rush mats coated with chalky lime.
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By the end of the survey of the area, we have achieved a full picture of
the status quaestionis in the issue of the developement of monasticism in the
desert of the Jordan. This picture is based upon the summary of a hundred
years of research in the area and opens the way for the next step in the
research.
Table 1 The measurements of the monastic cells of the central groups in the
Jordan Desert
Group
A1
A2
6.4
4.5
6.5
6.5
8.0
7.5
9.2
9.0
6.0
7.5
12.5
10.0
12.5
10.5
12.0
17.6
16.5
16.5
14.0
4.9
7.0
5.5
4.0
8.0
7.5
6.1
5.8
8.0
6.1
9.5
10.0
7.5
8.7
9.5
14.1
9.5
11.5
10.2
31.36
31.50
35.75
26.00
64.00
56.25
56.12
52.20
48.00
45.75
118.75
100.00
93.75
91.35
114.00
248.00
156.75
189.75
142.80
Number
of rooms
1
2
not clear
not clear
2 + yard
1
more than 1
not clear
not clear
not clear
3
more than 1
more than 1
more than 1
room + yard
7 + yard
room + yard
4 + yard
more than 1
Notes
Base of cell well preserved
The eastern wall is small
Base of cell well preserved
*
The cell is partially carved
* It is possible that there was a courtyard facing north, but it is not clear.
Table 2 The measurements of the monastic cells of the central groups in the
Jordan Desert
Group
4.1
4.8
5.8
7.5
4.9
7.5
4.5
4.1
4.2
4.6
5.5
4.0
3.8
3.2
16.81
20.16
25.30
41.25
19.60
28.50
14.40
?
Number
of rooms
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
?
Notes
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References
Augustinovi P.A., 1951: Gerico e dintorni, Gerusalemme.
Bar-Adon P., 1972: The Survey in the Judean Desert and Jericho Valley, in M. Cochavi (ed.),
Judea, Samaria and Golan, Archaeological Survey in the year 5728, Jerusalem, 92-149
(Hebrew).
Baramki D.C., 1949-1951: The Excavations at Khirbet en-Nitla, in J.L. Kelso - D.C.
Baramki (eds.), Excavations at New Testament Jericho and Khirbet en Nitla, Annual of
the American School of Oriental Research 29-30, 50-52.
Chitty D.J., 1966: The Desert a City, An Introduction to the Study of Egyptian Palestinian
Monasticism Under the Christian Empire, Oxford.
Conder C.R. - Kitchener H.H., 1883: The Survey of Western Palestine, III: Judea, London.
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dsert de Jrusalem, La Terre Sainte 20, 117-120; 132-134; 148-150; 180-182; 196-199;
299-301; 309-311; 328-331.
Gurin M.V., 1874: Description geographique, historique et archologique de la Palestine, I:
Samaria, Paris.
Hirschfeld Y., 1990: List of the Byzantine Monasteries in the Judean Desert, G.C. Bottini L. Di Segni - E. Alliata (eds.), Christian Archaeology in the Holy Land. New Discoveries.
Archaeological Essays in Honour of Virgilio C. Corbo, Jerusalem, 1-90.
Hirschfeld Y., 1991: Gerasimus and his Laura in the Jordan Valley, Revue Biblique 98, 419430.
Hirschfeld Y., 1992: The Judean Desert Monasteries in the Byzantine Period, New Haven London.
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Patrich J. - Arubas B. - Agur B., 1993: Monastic Cells in the Desert of Gerasimus near the
Jordan, in F. Manns - E. Alliata (eds.), Early Christianity in Context. Monuments and
Documents, Jerusalem 1993, 277-296.
Schneider A.M., 1938: Das Kalamon-Kloster in der Jerichoeben, Oriens Christianus 35, 3943.
Sion O., 1992: A Mosaic Precinct in Khirbet Handumah, Liber Annuus 42, 279-287.
Vailh S., 1898: Les Laures de Saint Gerasime et de Calamon, Echos dOrient 2, 106-119.
Vita Charitonis, 1941: G. Garitte (ed.), La vie prmtaphrastique de S. Chariton, Bulletin de
lInstitut historique Belge de Rome 21, 16-46.
Ofer Sion
Israel Antiquities Authority