Kenra Color Manual 2015
Kenra Color Manual 2015
Kenra Color Manual 2015
Table of Contents
1 Discover
Kenra Color
pages 2 - 3
2 Hair fundamentals
pages 4 - 7
3 Kenra Color
pages 8 - 12
4 Permanent Color
pages 13 - 21
5 Demi-permanent
Color
pages 22 - 25
6 Color Support
pages 26 - 28
7 Technical Application
Reference
pages 29 - 30
Notes
The Kenra Color portfolio provides you all the tools needed for consistent, reliable, true-to-tone
haircolor solutions. Whether you are just starting your career or you are an experienced colorist,
were confident Kenra Color will give you the versatility to create Simply Stunning Results.
2 Hair fundamentals
HAIR STRUCTURE
The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring products and techniques selected
by the stylist, as well as understanding the physical nature of the hair itself. This section explores
the fundamentals of hair its structure and unique characteristics and their role in the haircolor
process. At Kenra Professional, we believe that understanding the structure of your clients hair
is just the beginning of the overall consultation process. Each strand of hair has three main
components: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
Cuticle
The cuticle refers to the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping
and protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy, flat
cuticle layer promotes strength, shine and the overall appearance of the hair.
Cortex
The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft. It gives the
hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin
that lie along the length of the hair. Oxidative pigments are developed or oxidized in the cortex
with permanent and demi-permanent haircolor.
Medulla
Finally, the medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of human hair. It has no known
function and not all hair contains a medulla.
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Cross-section
of hair strand
Hair fundamentals
HAIR CHARACTERISTICS
Notes
Texture
Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually
examining it tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally referred to as
fine, medium or coarse.
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Density
The density of the hair is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch on the
scalp and determines how much color mixture is needed for the color service. It can influence the
look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.
Thin
Medium
Thick
Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and hold liquids. Some factors that contribute to hairs
porosity include past chemical services, environmental damage and mechanical (hot tools and
brushing/combing) damage. Accurately judging the hairs porosity is critical for color and developer
selection. All haircolor durability is related to the porosity of the hair, which is usually described as
low, average, or high. Low porosity may cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate whereas high
porosity absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade away more readily.
Notes
Low porosity
High porosity
Formation
DID YOU KNOW?
Wavy or curly hair can look
less reflective because it can
absorb light and color. Create
the perfect canvas for a Kenra
Color service by offering
these types of clients a Kenra
Smooth service. Whats more,
complete both services in one
salon visit, saving time for your
client and creating a greater
revenue opportunity for you,
the stylist.
Hair formation refers to its shape and pattern. It can influence the look of color because it affects
the way light is reflected or absorbed. Forms of hair are described as straight, wavy or curly.
Follicle Shape
Hair Pattern
Color Reflection
Straight hair begins with a straight hair
follicle and has a sphere-shaped hair
strand. It is generally more reflective
because of its solid, smooth surface.
Hair fundamentals
HAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS
Hair Strand
Notes
Pigment Types
Direct Dyes These are color pigments that can actually
be seen. They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen
peroxide). Direct dye pigments are typically larger and
remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft. They can have
a staining effect on the hair.
Indirect Dyes
Direct Dyes
Haircolor Categories
Haircolor type
Oxidative
agent
Color
penetration
Ammonia
Chemical hair
change
Semi-permanent
No
None
Demi-permanent
Yes
Penetrates
the cuticle and
multiple layers
of the cortex.
None
Can be a
combination of
direct and indirect
pigments and is
deposit only.
Fades gradually
and washes out
to the original color
of the hair.
Permanent
Yes
Fully penetrates
Usually contains
the cortex. After the some amount of
color is oxidized,
ammonia.
the cuticle closes
and the color stays
inside which gives
the hair its new color.
Permanently alters
the hair shaft
and can cause
movement or lift
of natural melanin
and deposit in one
process.
3 Kenra Color
Notes
Level
10 Extra Light Blonde
09 Light Blonde
08 Blonde
07 Medium Blonde
06 Dark Blonde
05 Light Brown
human eye.
04 Medium Brown
03 Dark Brown
01 Black
Dominant Color
Level
Secondary
Reflection
Kenra Color
Shades and Tones
Notes
Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families in a balanced collection of warm and cool tones to meet
the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of mixing and delivers intense shine and
maximum coverage.
Natural: Combination of the three primary colors calibrated at the designated
Shade Chart
level to achieve full gray coverage (Permanent) and natural gray coverage up to
Natural
75% (Demi-permanent). The proper amount of the Natural Series should be added
NA
Natural Ash
Ash
Natural Ash: Calibrated at each level to optimize gray coverage and neutralize
AA
Ash Ash
SM
Silver Metallic
a single process.
Brown / Beige
BC
Brown Copper
Gold
into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (see Gray Coverage chart).
GB
Copper
CG
Copper Gold
Silver Metallic: Cool blue tones supported by blue violet secondary reflection.
Red
RR
Red Red
RB
Red Brown
RC
Red Copper
VR
Violet Red
RV
Red Violet
Violet
PV
Pearl Violet
Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reflection and a natural gold tonality.
Gold Brown/Beige: Dominant gold tones with secondary brown undertones.
1N
P/D
NATURAL ASH
3N
P/D
4N
P/D
5N
P/D
6N
P/D
NATURAL BROWN
5NB
P/D
6NB
P
8N
P/D
9N
P/D
7NB
P/D
1A
D
4A
P/D
5A
P
7AA
P
7SM
P
8AA
P
8SM
P
10
6A
P/D
7A
P/D
8A
P
9A
P
10A
P/D
BROWN COPPER
5B
P/D
6B
P
7B
P/D
8B
P/D
10B
P/D
4BC
P
6BC
P/D
7BC
P/D
GOLD BROWN
6G
P/D
7G
P
COPPER
5C
P/D
6NA
P/D
10SM
P
GOLD
5G
P
5NA
P/D
SILVER METALLIC
BROWN
4B
P/D
10N
P/D
ASH
ASH ASH
6AA
P
7N
P/D
8G
P/D
9G
P
10G
D
5GB
P
COPPER GOLD
6C
P/D
8C
P/D
5CG
P/D
7CG
P/D
8CG
P
9CG
P
8GB
P/D
9GB
P/D
10GB
P
7NA
P/D
8NA
P/D
Kenra Color
RED
RED RED
4R
P/D
5R
P
6R
P/D
7R
P
4RR
P/D
RED BROWN
4RB
P
5RB
P/D
D = Demi-permanent
7RR
P
RED COPPER
6RB
P
7RB
P/D
VIOLET RED
3VR
P/D
6RR
P/D
5RC
P
RED VIOLET
3RV
P
5VR
P/D
CLEAR
5RV
P
6RC
P/D
VIOLET
PEARL
VIOLET
10V
D
9PV
D
6RV
P
HIGH LIFT
Gloss
D
Gold
Natural
P
Natural
P
Pearl
Ash
P
Ash
P
Blonding
Creme
P
RAPID TONER
SV
D
VP
D
CR
D
GC
D
Copper
P
Gold
P
Violet
P
BOOSTER
Red
P
Blue
P
Elements of Design is Kenra Colors signature guide to haircolor application. It supports our 5 Steps
or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical
application. For Kenra Color, its truly where ease meets artistry.
Foundation Color: Primary overall color; incorporates 75% or more of total color.
Anchor Color: Supportive color designed to influence contrast of the Foundation Color and
is usually within 1 to 2 levels of the Foundation Color.
Accent Color: Emphasis colors to draw the eye to a particular area creating contrast
Notes
Accent Color
Anchor Color
Foundation Color
12
4 Permanent Color
KENRA COLOR PERMANENT PORTFOLIO
Gentle, low-ammonia color available in a wide array of multidimensional tones that deliver consistent, reliable results.
1. Features Balancing Complex 5
2. Provides vibrant, long lasting results
REMEMBER
Kenra Color does not
recommend the use of a dryer,
steamer or accelerator drops
for processing.
Notes
1 + 1
Processing Time
30 Minutes
Processing Time for Gray Coverage
Up to 40 Minutes
Developer
Levels of Lift
10 Volume (3%)
20 Volume (6%)
30 Volume (9%)
23 levels of lift*
40 Volume (12%)
34 levels of lift*
Notes
Underlying pigment refers to the undertones that are exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted.
Generally, this affects the outcome of a color formulation when there is lifting of two or more levels
and the volume of developer selected affects underlying pigment exposed in the lifting process. It
is often necessary to add a neutralizing color into a formulation to ensure control of an unwanted
underlying pigment. Use this cart to determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level
you are coloring to and what neutralizing color can benefit your color formulation.
Level
Underlying Pigment
Neutralizing Color
Pale Yellow
09 Light Blonde
Yellow Gold
08 Blonde
Light Gold
07 Medium Blonde
Gold
06 Dark Blonde
Gold Orange
Ash
05 Light Brown
Orange
Ash
04 Medium Brown
Dark Orange
Ash
03 Dark Brown
Red Orange
N/A
01 Black
N/A
Gray Coverage
Gray hair is typically more
% of Gray
% of Natural Series
% of Desired Color
resistant to coloration
25%
25%
75%
50%
50%
50%
50100%*
75%
25%
14
Permanent Color
5 EASY STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION
Notes
Kenra Color streamlines the art of haircolor formulation with five easy steps that provide
consistent, reliable results on every client, every time.
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
Processing Time
30 Minutes
EXAMPLE 2: Deposit
The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB (1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 7
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB
3: The level of deposit is 1
Processing Time
30 Minutes
16
Permanent Color
Notes
Processing Time
40 Minutes
Processing Time
30 Minutes
Developer Choices
Application
10 Volume (3%)
20 Volume (6%)
30 Volume (9%)
and Kenra Color No Ammonia Lightener is a fragrance-free, white powder formulated without
ammonia. Each dust-free lightener powder can remove natural or artificial pigments, both indirect
and direct to help eliminate unwanted tones such as ash or red and have a lifting strength of up to
7 levels in a single application. Extremely versatile, each lightener can be applied both on and off
the scalp with Kenra Color Permanent Developer 10 30 Volumes in different ratios for multiple
blonding effects 10 and 20 Volume on the scalp and 10, 20 and 30 Volume off the scalp. Each
Notes
mixtures creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free for ease of use.
18
Permanent Color
High Lift
Notes
Kenra Color High Lift Series provides the ability to create superior single process blondes achieving
4-5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of underlying pigment. These four shades feature a
specially developed base to support lighter lifting and neutralization of underlying pigment, each
providing the same lifting strength with varying degrees of neutralization of underlying pigment.
Achieve best results on level 6 and above, but the series can also be used on level 5 for a warmer
end result. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color High Lift is one part
Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) for 45 minutes at room temperature.
Shade
Developer Volume
Timing
End Result
Gold Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Natural Blonde
Pearl Ash
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Cooler Blonde
Ash
Levels 5 or 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Coolest Blonde
1 + 2
Processing Time
45 Minutes
Blonding Creme
Kenra Color Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support. It features
the same specially developed base as the Kenra Color High Lift Series;
however, it does not contain any neutralizing pigment, therefore it will have
a warmer end result. Blonding Creme is extremely versatile and can be
used for a couple key haircoloring needs. First, it can be used for natural
accent effects, or highlights, when mixed one part Blonding Creme with two
parts Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). Second, Blonding Creme can be
added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation (up to of total color
portion) for added lift, achieving - 1 level of additional lift.
Blonding Creme
For - 1
Level of Lift
Natural
Highlighting
EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation for adding Blonding Creme to a permanent color formulation
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter) with a copper tone. The client
has 0% gray hair. The underlying pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is light gold
Processing Time
for Lift
30 Minutes
Processing Time for
Natural Highlighting
Up to 45 Minutes
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 8C. To achieve this level of lift,
Developer 40 Volume is required. ounce of Blonding Creme is added to 1 ounce of Permanent
Coloring Creme for additional lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part
8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus ounce Blonding Creme. Processing time is 30 minutes.
20
Permanent Color
Color Boosters
Color Boosters are designed to create
Notes
Booster
Shade
Effect
Gold
Blue
Violet
Copper
Red
Booster Use
For Increased
Vibrancy
Special Effects
5 Demi-permanent Color
Notes
1 + 2
22
Application
Apply from scalp to ends
Demi-permanent Color
KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT SERVICE OPTIONS
Notes
Kenra Color Demi-permanent provides you multiple service options allowing for
maximum creativity and profitability.
Color Enhancing Service
Offer a color enhancing service to enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing
color tone. First determine the clients natural level, and then choose the appropriate tone
to accentuate, neutralize or deepen. Use the standard Kenra Color Demi-permanent
mixing ratio and processing time.
Color Equalizing
A color equalizing service is used anytime a client requires a permanent retouch service on
their new growth and needs a corresponding formula to be used on the mid-shaft to ends.
Application
Apply Permanent formula to new growth and process
for 15 minutes. Then, apply Demi-permanent formula
from mid-length to ends.
Tips:
- On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray.
Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair.
- Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation to dilute the deposit
amount of the pigment while providing maximum shine.
The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line delivers natural gray coverage up to 75% in a no ammonia
formulation. This is the perfect suggestion for clients who do not want to commit to a permanent
haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures optimal gray coverage.
1 + 1
Notes
Processing Time
Up to 25 Minutes
Application
Apply to dry hair
Clear Glossing
Clear Glossing services add intense shine and increase manageability for previously
colored, lightened or highlighted hair. Kenra Color Demi-permanent Clear Gloss features
Balancing Complex 5; however, this deposit-only formulation is clear so it can be used on
any hair type or color for maximum shine and improved condition.
1 + 2
Application
Apply glossing formula to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair
Toning
Toning Services are recommended to tone
Toning Service
Shade Selections
10G / 8C / 8G
8GB / 9GB
10B / 8B
24
Demi-permanent Color
Rapid Toners / Dimensional Toning
Notes
1 + 2
Application
Apply from scalp to ends to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair
Effect
Golden Copper
Copper Red
Violet Pearl
Silver Violet
6 Color Support
Notes
Application
Apply to dry hair and process under
heat or at room temperature
Technical Application
1. Perform a strand test for accuracy and capability to remove unwanted color.
2. In a non-metallic bowl or mixing bottle, mix one part Lotion 1 with one part Lotion 2 (mixing ratio
1:1). The total amount of mixture required depends on the length of the hair that needs correction.
3. Apply a plastic cap over hair and process 20 minutes. (Heat option: Place under medium
heat to accelerate the process. Check periodically.)
4. Rinse hair thoroughly. Cleanse hair with an appropriate shampoo - Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
is recommended. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator or Permanent
Coloring Creme Developer 10 Volume to the hair for 3 minutes to neutralize. Rinse thoroughly.
5. If sufficient color has not been removed or if the haircolor has become darker, repeat the process
on damp, towel-dried hair. You can reapply color corrector up to 3 times in one day.
6. Shampoo and condition thoroughly. An appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner are
recommended. Dry the hair and proceed with your Kenra Color application.
26
Color Support
Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes
Notes
Pre-Pigment Creme
10 Pale Yellow
None
09 Yellow Gold
None
08 Light Gold
Gold
07 Gold
Gold
06 Gold Orange
05 Orange
Copper
04 Dark Orange
Copper
03 Red Orange
Red
1 + 1
Processing Time
10 Minutes
Application
Spray hair with Kenra Color Porosity
Equalizing Spray and apply pre-pigment
color. Towel blot excess Pre-Pigment
Coloring Creme from hair. Apply desired
Kenra Color Permanent or Kenra
Color Demi-permanent formulation.
28
Notes
technical application section for a synopsis of Kenra Color Permanent and Demi-permanent
service options with related technical support.
Formulation
Permanent
Coloring Creme
and Developer
Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)
Processing time: 30 Minutes, up to 40 Minutes processing time for gray coverage
Lightener
Formulation:
One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing time: Check result regularly during processing, do not exceed 60 minutes
High Lift
Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)
Processing time: 45 Minutes
Blonding Creme
Formulations:
For - 1 Level of Lift, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and
oz. Blonding Creme (up to of color portion).
For Natural Highlighting, mix 1 oz. Blonding Creme and 2 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for Lift, up to 45 Minutes for natural highlighting
Color Boosters
Formulations:
For increased vibrancy, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer
and add up to oz. Color Booster.
For special effects, mix 1 oz. Color Booster and 1 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for increased vibrancy
Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.
Formulation
Enhancing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula from scalp to ends
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Equalizing
Formulation:
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)
Application:
> Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes
> Then apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends
Processing time: 15-25 Minutes
Gray Blending
Formulations:
Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and Natural Series
+ 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Natural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula to dry hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Clear Glossing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to dry or towel-dried hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Toning
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hair
Processing time: 5-25 Minutes
Toning with
Rapid Toners
Formulation:
1 oz. Rapid Toner Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to freshly shampooed and conditioned damp hair.
Processing time: 5 Minutes or less
Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Demi-permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.
30
Notes
Notes
32
k e n r a p r o f e s s i o n a l . c o m